Guide to Calibrating a Consumer CRT with a Colorimeter(Wega Focused)
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- Опубліковано 8 тра 2022
- If you want to take a deep-dive into colour-theory and truly understand what we're doing in this video, then I encourage you to check out StickFreaks' channel: / @stickfreaks466
Google Drive Docs:
Folder with everything - drive.google.com/drive/folder...
Individual MP4s:
drive.google.com/file/d/1A7-b...
drive.google.com/file/d/1YOoJ...
drive.google.com/file/d/1teAm...
drive.google.com/file/d/1iaK2...
drive.google.com/file/d/1BWEk...
drive.google.com/file/d/1fRDC...
drive.google.com/file/d/1aELJ...
drive.google.com/file/d/15XVi...
drive.google.com/file/d/1fwO9...
drive.google.com/file/d/1UHOJ...
Music is by T- MG:
/ tracks
Track 1 = Turtle Mountain
Track 2 = New Normal - Ігри
![PC CRT Calibration Guide (Displaycal) [READ DESCRIPTION BEFORE YOU BEGIN!]](/img/n.gif)
UPDATE: you may need to offset your colorimeter readings, as CRT-capable ones are 10+ years old at this point and do go bad over time. The one I used for this video gave an image that was a bit too green. You can take into account the offset by using HCFR with your CRT-capable colorimeter and a brand-newish colorimeter - just make sure to have them set for the same display type, colourspace, white point etc...
UPDATE 2: The CC Display Plus can calibrate CRTs through HCFR and DisplayCAL :O. Results are insanely good. This Colorimeter is currently in production, so no worries about receiving a bad one.
they should really put an expiration date on colorimeters if they start to go bad...
.
UPDATE3: I learned a lot more on calibration since this video, and I wanted to mention that this guide is mainly for correcting hues and tones throughout the image, and not useful for true calibration. To truely calibrate; you'd need to adjust for gamma, with 100% brightness being at 80-120 nits. I can't make a video on it, because I honestly do not have the equipment necessary to perform a reference-level CRT calibration. I may make something once the PixelMorph FX is released.
Great tutorial! Thank you so much. Out of curiosity, how are you getting scan lines on the PS3? The lowest video setting I have available is PAL which is 480i.
Thank you! The PS3 is outputting 480i , you can see the lines jumping up and down if you look close enough.
Do you do 10% and then 20%, or which order do go in? And do you go back to 10% after you do 10, 20, and then 30? Because it seems like that would mess up the previously calibrated white balance?
Great question! I've since learned a lot more about calibration since making this video, and I wish I had the time to make another. Changing Bias will affect Gain, and vice-versa; you'll find yourself playing a game of 'tug-o-war' at least 2-3 times before both ends are correct. There's also the matter of whether you should calibrate bias from 10% or 30%, and I've had great and terrible results both ways. Calibrating white balance first IS the faster option, so my method of starting from 10% does waste time - but you should have the same result at the end. I've found that calibrating bias at 30% works if you're targeting 80-120nits, but 10% is best if you go any higher. Also gamma is very important, but that step is addressed with my SMPTE Colour Bar calibration. I will say: that if you hook up a PC through CRT-Emudriver; Calibration will get a HELL of a lot more complicated - and rewarding -.
nice vid, i have a crt with HDMI 36xs955, how would i begin to tackle that.
If it has an HDMI or DVI input, then no need to do the blue-screen calibration. You could easily connect a pc through HDMI and run HCFR directly.
@@NullyBird hey again. I'm your vid you pointed out service menu options specific to s video or ypbpr. By using HDMI do I just need to worry about drive/cut/gain? Thanks
@@WilliamVentura In my set;U Off and V Off control the red and blue offset of component video in relation to S-video and composite video. The idea is that the R, G, and B gain options affect ALL inputs - so you need to create offsets to get the inputs synced up to 6500k temperature. I’d look for some offset options on your menu.
@@WilliamVentura I know some HD CRT sets only offer lagless 540p through the component input, so it would be worth offsetting if you were to game on component, and watch media on HDMI.
Would the SpyderX Pro colorimeter work with this software and CRTs?
Sadly not! The CC Display Colorimeters do though. I'm thinking about making an updated guide on it. I sold my Spyder X at half the price I bought it for, and bought a Display Pro Plus instead - no regrets.
@@NullyBird Dang, the SpyderX is on sale for $99. Is the $170 version of the CC Display one good enough for CRTs?
@@TotallyRadTV I can personally confirm that the Display Plus works. I’ve seen reports that the Display works, and I don’t see why it wouldn’t, but at the end of the day I have no personal experience with it. The Plus is expensive, but you can calibrate OLED screens with it - making it more future-proof.
@@TotallyRadTV
Okay so if you go to this video:
ua-cam.com/video/4BJ2md-hOBo/v-deo.html
You'll find a comment from "Andre" about CRT compatibility with the CC Display. He unfortunately never got back to us about whether it worked or not, but I'm 99.99% sure it works because he writes:
"Calibrite ColorChecker Display is detected in HCFR as: "X-Rite i1 DisplayPro,ColorMunki Display"
This is the EXACT same way HCFR identifies my CC Display Plus.
@@NullyBird Awesome, thanks!
Question, my wega is missing green, do you know of a way to fix this?
No green colour on screen at all? Or no green gain and bias controls?
@@NullyBird no green at all
@@kuroi_1153 check the G gun setting in service menu, make sure it’s turned on. If the green absence is on all inputs, it would be an internal hardware issue. At that point you’d need to get another CRT or become a CRT-repair tradesman to do that repair.