Perfect mix of C64 and innuendo... Innuendo definitely being the correct word... If FB64 is the first program on the SD2IEC you can press C= key plus run/stop for even faster loading... Epyx vid Mark... See what I did there... ;)
Thanks Mark. As a (very) amature at electronics I appreciate the attention to detail at every step. This would have been handy to see at the start of the year when I built my first project (a mini PET) which took a bit of time to do checking things like polarity. I have another task on the go at the moment to take out some old cartidge sockets on an expansion board to replace with some new ones so the tips I've picked up from your video will come in handy. Great job on the videos and keep 'em coming!
Top video as always Mark! I'm a big fan of blu-tack for holding stuff in place temporarily while soldering. Nice to see some EPROM programming action too! Those fake AliExpress chips are becoming a real problem, good detective work tracking down the correct model numbers and finally getting them programmed. 👍
The most annoying thing is that most of the parts DO work, they are real EPROMs just not that type they print over after sanding. And it may matter if they differ in programming voltages.
FYI, no clean flux is an oxymoron. I say this because it works the right amount of heat to evaporate it. Issue is some people put too much on and it turns to a substance which prevents things from working (8 bit guy had this issue on a build) . SO if you use it make sure to check it is clean afterwards. I worked for a contract board maker which me and several other techs got them to go from no-clean to water soluble. it add a little work BUT fixed a bunch of issues and boards worked much better
@@MarkFixesStuff you would be surprised how much it can cause issues. 8-bit-guy was having issues with an 1 mhz apple clone. And makes sense the flux can act like a capacitor and thus screw up signals
I enjoyed this video, it brought back memories of when I was still working. I burned an awful lot of EPROMs over the years. I don’t own a C64, and probably never will (a bit pricey for a good one), but I am always interested in seeing new accessories for it.
Oh the double entendres ... 'I had to cinch the legs slightly otherwise I couldn't fit my part in ...' '...it's simply a matter of slipping it in and spreading its legs so it doesn't slip out ...' 'Subject your part to the snip ...'
I still have my original Epyx Fastload cartridge that I bought 35 years ago. One of the best things I ever bought for my C64. It drastically improved disk load times on most games. I had a few that were incompatible until I ripped the copy protection out of them.
I just use my Kung Fu Flash and install Epyx fastload, Ultimate Cartridge or any other cool tool to it. If you type LOAD"filename",8,1 put : and hit SHIFT and RUN/STOP at the end so you do not need to type RUN, it will auto run program. Commodore key and RUN/STOP will load first file in directory with a Epyx cart. Or $ to load listing, go up to file you want to load and put / in front of listing you want to load and hit RETURN, then scroll to blank part of BASIC screen (at the bottom of screen) and type run. Some fastload utility cartridges use F keys to shortcut commands.
This is all really handy to know. I was a pauper, so DOS commands are new to me! I knew about the Kung Fu Flash process, but I don’t think I’d have got sponsored for that lol 😂
Very nice... Although if one has an EPROM programmer one could fit a custom Kernal with fast loading support to the computer itself, maybe a dual Kernal set up for good measure. If I remember correctly mine's running Dolphin because I prefer it's command set with the JiffyDOS fast loading routines as I think they are faster and a C=65-alike boot up.... Press the C= key on boot to get the stock Kernal instead.
Mark, I need to build one myself, but I haven't been able to locate any electronic parts supplier with haribo bears in stock... Could you point out one please?😁😁😁
When I purchased them it was just for 10x UV erasable 27C64 EPROMs. It’s so crazy because they go to this effort to sand and remark them and I really don’t care if they are original.
You mentioned a new roll of solder. Do you use regular or unleaded solder when doing new projects? (Repairs should match whatever is already there, but what about new projects like this?)
On old stuff it’s always leaded. New stuff is usually unleaded, but as it’s just for me it’s not a legal requirement. Leaded is easier by far but I have a 2lb roll of unleaded too.
Just bend 2 of the pins on the socket to hold it in. Or hold onto it directly while tacking 2 pins. Anyone know if there is a compatible board available at OSH Park? Cheers,
Blue-tack is not required and only turns messy with heat. On a 14 pin chip for example, bent the 7th an 14th pins, or 1 and 8 pins, and tack the opposing pins with solder. Now you are free to straighten the pins you bent, and finish soldering if bent pins bother you. I just solder them as is. btw, love the sexual innuendos!
When I bend the pins I get yelled at in the comments that I am weakening the parts. I like to do the Smurf poo joke too. I cannot tell you what I use in private. :p
Funny how if you want things to load faster on the Atari 8-bit users just make the disk drive more capable (like an upgrade) and use something like SpartaDOS. But then the data on Atari 8-bits flows fast already. 😉
I don't really know, but I guess that they remark them to make them look faster (100ns response time instead of the SLIGHTLY slower 150ns) and more uniform or "new"? I'm equally confused. They cost about 60 UK pence each including the shipping and I'd pay more for honest "pulls". Thanks for watching BTW. I really appreciate your support and taking time to comment!
Great video as always I'll have a CRACK at that! CHEEKY question... Can you tell me where you get the blue 104 caps from? I need some for a beeb PCB restoration.
better and much faster is Action Replay cartridge that same game (Bomb Jack) takes only 7;25 sec to load, if you have Kung Fu Flash it can emulate all kind of CRT cartridge images...
@@MarkFixesStuff They are metal clamps with a rubber coating used for holding delicate stuff together when doing art. rather small and operate similarly to spring loaded clothespins
"Slipping it in and spreading its legs so it doesn't slip out"... *does a double take to make sure I'm watching a Mark video and not some old $ex ed from when I went to school :D
Please please don't start using this awful background music. That tappy tappy sound is so irritating! Your videos are always so excellent, but this was hard to watch because of it
5:07 And all sidecutters are specially designed to fire the cut off lead directly towards your eyes, even if you look away.
My eyes are magnetic I thought?? 👁 🧲 🩸 💀
also good for launching at the boss
My eyes are ceramic. Caught a bazooka round at Little Big Horn. Or was it Okinawa? The one without the Indians.
Perfect mix of C64 and innuendo... Innuendo definitely being the correct word... If FB64 is the first program on the SD2IEC you can press C= key plus run/stop for even faster loading... Epyx vid Mark... See what I did there... ;)
I did not know that trick!!!!!!!!! Epyx!
Another cool vid mate :D thanks!
Great Job. You are teaching new generations the Joy of Electronics.
Ah thanks SeaJay!!
Thanks Mark. As a (very) amature at electronics I appreciate the attention to detail at every step. This would have been handy to see at the start of the year when I built my first project (a mini PET) which took a bit of time to do checking things like polarity. I have another task on the go at the moment to take out some old cartidge sockets on an expansion board to replace with some new ones so the tips I've picked up from your video will come in handy. Great job on the videos and keep 'em coming!
Thanks Andy! Really appreciate you watching and the kind comments!
Something very satisfying about watching you solder. Great video, cheers
Thanks Dev!!! I saw the patches and cried with delight btw!
Gummy Crew 4 life
Top video as always Mark! I'm a big fan of blu-tack for holding stuff in place temporarily while soldering.
Nice to see some EPROM programming action too! Those fake AliExpress chips are becoming a real problem, good detective work tracking down the correct model numbers and finally getting them programmed. 👍
The most annoying thing is that most of the parts DO work, they are real EPROMs just not that type they print over after sanding. And it may matter if they differ in programming voltages.
Yes. I’d pay more for the honest parts!!
FYI, no clean flux is an oxymoron. I say this because it works the right amount of heat to evaporate it. Issue is some people put too much on and it turns to a substance which prevents things from working (8 bit guy had this issue on a build) . SO if you use it make sure to check it is clean afterwards.
I worked for a contract board maker which me and several other techs got them to go from no-clean to water soluble. it add a little work BUT fixed a bunch of issues and boards worked much better
Great tip. Thank you!
@@MarkFixesStuff you would be surprised how much it can cause issues. 8-bit-guy was having issues with an 1 mhz apple clone. And makes sense the flux can act like a capacitor and thus screw up signals
Instead of the sticky tack, I recommend using Kapton tape to hold components in place while you solder.
Good call, although I will continue using bluetack so I can call it smurfpoo.
Awesome video ! Always buzzing for a new Mark Fixes Stuff
Cheers Mikey!
Thank you for this great video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another beautiful video. Thank you.
Thank you Ben!!
I use a small spring clamp to hold down components tightly to the board.
Good trick! Thanks for watching Bob!
I enjoyed this video, it brought back memories of when I was still working. I burned an awful lot of EPROMs over the years. I don’t own a C64, and probably never will (a bit pricey for a good one), but I am always interested in seeing new accessories for it.
You still see them pop up for cheap occasionally on local facebook groups. Thanks for the kind comments!
commodore 64 emulator for windows 10
Yeah!
Oh the double entendres ...
'I had to cinch the legs slightly otherwise I couldn't fit my part in ...'
'...it's simply a matter of slipping it in and spreading its legs so it doesn't slip out ...'
'Subject your part to the snip ...'
That's exactly what I did though!!!!!
@@MarkFixesStuff The gummy crew check your script for potential innuendos.
Not to forget "excitedly ram it into the rear as far as we can" at 14:45
I still have my original Epyx Fastload cartridge that I bought 35 years ago. One of the best things I ever bought for my C64. It drastically improved disk load times on most games. I had a few that were incompatible until I ripped the copy protection out of them.
I just use my Kung Fu Flash and install Epyx fastload, Ultimate Cartridge or any other cool tool to it. If you type LOAD"filename",8,1 put : and hit SHIFT and RUN/STOP at the end so you do not need to type RUN, it will auto run program. Commodore key and RUN/STOP will load first file in directory with a Epyx cart. Or $ to load listing, go up to file you want to load and put / in front of listing you want to load and hit RETURN, then scroll to blank part of BASIC screen (at the bottom of screen) and type run. Some fastload utility cartridges use F keys to shortcut commands.
This is all really handy to know. I was a pauper, so DOS commands are new to me!
I knew about the Kung Fu Flash process, but I don’t think I’d have got sponsored for that lol 😂
I could watch you solder for days.
I could do with the views! Hit repeat!!!!
Very nice...
Although if one has an EPROM programmer one could fit a custom Kernal with fast loading support to the computer itself, maybe a dual Kernal set up for good measure. If I remember correctly mine's running Dolphin because I prefer it's command set with the JiffyDOS fast loading routines as I think they are faster and a C=65-alike boot up.... Press the C= key on boot to get the stock Kernal instead.
Yeah, this a build project to make a cart. I have a few differnt things to make. Mostly I use my Kung Fu Flash.
Another great video, it has inspired me to try and make one myself :)
Yay!!! Go for it!
Hi mark! Nice video!
Greetings, Doc64!
Hi Doc64! Thanks for stopping by!
Significantly increases load speeds!? :)
Yeah... might be an understatement! Thanks for watching Kailash!
Excellent vid as always
Thank you kind Geezer!
Mark, I need to build one myself, but I haven't been able to locate any electronic parts supplier with haribo bears in stock... Could you point out one please?😁😁😁
This crew is from Aldi... they are Happy Bears 🐻!!
I watched the video without knowing what he was building (Epyx FastLoad Cartridge) to the end 😂
Hahha! Thanks for watching! I did say at the very start!
@@MarkFixesStuff Yes, but I didn't know what what "Epyx FastLoad Cartridge" is 😂
until it was demonstrated at the end
Great video as always Mark. I really should get myself a Fastloader. On a side note, which Power Supply do you use for your C64C?
I have a fully tested and refubished one from Adam Caine of Cainer's Commodore Capers (great channel)
@@MarkFixesStuff I shall check him out. 😁👍
Great video! Just an observation: why you didn’t select the ST brand in the first place. I could even see the logo on the eproms.
When I purchased them it was just for 10x UV erasable 27C64 EPROMs. It’s so crazy because they go to this effort to sand and remark them and I really don’t care if they are original.
14:49 Oi!
"excitedly"...
Very nifty!
I wonder how this compares to JiffyDOS?
Ramming it into the rear...... xD Ok...I'll stop now!
That's the cart slot mate!
@@MarkFixesStuff Sure it is..... :P
0:55 - "DO NOT use neat on the skin". How many ice cubes should one add?
You mentioned a new roll of solder. Do you use regular or unleaded solder when doing new projects? (Repairs should match whatever is already there, but what about new projects like this?)
On old stuff it’s always leaded. New stuff is usually unleaded, but as it’s just for me it’s not a legal requirement. Leaded is easier by far but I have a 2lb roll of unleaded too.
Nice job.
I cheated and bought one premade a few years back.
I have an Epyx FastLoad Reloaded from TFW8B actually. I just like building things.
Just bend 2 of the pins on the socket to hold it in.
Or hold onto it directly while tacking 2 pins.
Anyone know if there is a compatible board available at OSH Park?
Cheers,
No mate. They have a FCIII+ but not this.
@@MarkFixesStuff ok thanks,
Cheers,
Blue-tack is not required and only turns messy with heat.
On a 14 pin chip for example, bent the 7th an 14th pins, or 1 and 8 pins, and tack the opposing pins with solder.
Now you are free to straighten the pins you bent, and finish soldering if bent pins bother you.
I just solder them as is.
btw, love the sexual innuendos!
When I bend the pins I get yelled at in the comments that I am weakening the parts. I like to do the Smurf poo joke too. I cannot tell you what I use in private. :p
@@MarkFixesStuff lol
Funny how if you want things to load faster on the Atari 8-bit users just make the disk drive more capable (like an upgrade) and use something like SpartaDOS. But then the data on Atari 8-bits flows fast already. 😉
There was JiffyDOS for the C64 as well back in the day. The data rate was really slow on the c64 though.
Are the EPROMs more saleable if remarked - I don’t get why they do that if they still work OK for most projects
I don't really know, but I guess that they remark them to make them look faster (100ns response time instead of the SLIGHTLY slower 150ns) and more uniform or "new"?
I'm equally confused. They cost about 60 UK pence each including the shipping and I'd pay more for honest "pulls". Thanks for watching BTW. I really appreciate your support and taking time to comment!
@@MarkFixesStuff I came for the retro soldering (via RMC) but stayed for the innuendos.
I want a Gummie Bear maker card.
Gummy Crew sew-on patches coming soon! 🧵 🪡
not sugar free I hope (read reviews of haribaro sugar free on amazon)
Great video as always I'll have a CRACK at that! CHEEKY question... Can you tell me where you get the blue 104 caps from? I need some for a beeb PCB restoration.
I don't remember where, but I know they are made by Murata. uk.farnell.com/murata/rcer71h104k0m1h03a/cap-0-1uf-50v-mlcc-radial/dp/2990750
Great! Thanks a lot... 👍
Cool :)
Thanks mate!
How does this work?
better and much faster is Action Replay cartridge that same game (Bomb Jack) takes only 7;25 sec to load, if you have Kung Fu Flash it can emulate all kind of CRT cartridge images...
I love the KFF! It's really flexible!!! Really I just build these for fun. Soon I'll do a Final Cartridge III+ as well.
@@MarkFixesStuff BTW FastLoader on Final Cartridge is slower than Action Replay Fastloader... I already tested it both of them, on KFF
What solder do you use?
At the moment I’m using Duratool D03347 leaded.
@@MarkFixesStuff Ah, leaded solder. I thought it flowed too nicely to be lead-free!
I prefer art microclamps and more. rather than bluetac.
I have no idea what they are! Do you have a link?
@@MarkFixesStuff No. I just get mine in the craft section of my dollar store.
@@MarkFixesStuff They are metal clamps with a rubber coating used for holding delicate stuff together when doing art. rather small and operate similarly to spring loaded clothespins
case files anywhere?
Look for a stumpy cartridge on Thingiverse like this one www.thingiverse.com/thing:4801156
"Slipping it in and spreading its legs so it doesn't slip out"... *does a double take to make sure I'm watching a Mark video and not some old $ex ed from when I went to school :D
"Excitedly ram it into the rear as far as we can" Okeeeey lol
I’m innocent!!!
Please please don't start using this awful background music. That tappy tappy sound is so irritating! Your videos are always so excellent, but this was hard to watch because of it
All my videos have background music!
Specifically the first two songs, with the very rapid tapping. When listening with headphones it really sucks!
@@cyphertheory OK, I'll bear it in mind next time.
@@cyphertheory OK, I know the thing you mean and I'll avoid that in future now. Thank you for the feedback :)