Disk Brake Service
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- Опубліковано 22 жов 2024
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*PLEASE READ THIS VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In this video, we show you how to perform a disk brake service. The vehicle we perform the job on is a 1st Generation Toyota Tacoma but the tips we share in the video will assist you with a brake service for any make and model vehicle. Since 3rd Gen 4runners are very similar to 1st Gen Tacomas, all the steps you see in this video would be the same for a 3rd Gen 4runner.
**Tire and Wheel World - Salinas, California (Did the rotor resurfacing)
www.twwsalinas...
*PARTS*
*Brake Pads (1st Gen 2004 2wd Tacoma Prerunner) #04465-04050
Make sure to double check for your particular year and model Tacoma for the right brake pads. There are different part numbers so make sure you get the right pads.
amzn.to/3T7SN1r
*Brake Pads (3rd Gen 4runner 1996-2002) #04465-35240
amzn.to/2MNbuqs
*Anti-Squeal Shim Kit (3rd Gen 4runner 1996-2002 & 1st Gen Tacoma 1995-2004) #04945-04012
amzn.to/2MLaiUo
*Rotors (1st Gen 2004 2wd Tacoma Prerunner) #43512-35290
amzn.to/366kJtq
*Rotors (3rd Gen 4runner w/ 16 inch wheels)
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*CRC Brake Caliper Grease
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*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*1/2" Breaker Bar
amzn.to/343Vcix
*1/2" Drive Deep Metric Impact Socket Set
amzn.to/3wdRVhq
*Brake Caliper Hanger Hooks
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*C-Clamp
amzn.to/2NjKRZg
*Channel Locks (I would get the 16.5" version because the jaws will open up to 4.25" wide)
amzn.to/2N6T1Uo
*Needle Nose Pliers
amzn.to/2pQ6yIa
*10cc Syringe
amzn.to/2Wd8S8l
*CDI 1/2" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench
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*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun
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*Dewalt Batteries
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*Dewalt Battery Charger
amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
*6 Ton Jack Stands
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*Dot 3 Brake Fluid
amzn.to/33ZK8TF
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
*PLEASE READ THIS AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
We forgot to mention it's good practice before reassembling your brake parts to clean the surface of your rotors with some brake cleaner. While handling the rotors, you might have gotten some grease onto the surfaces. Even if you got new rotors, the rotors will have a protective film on them to prevent rusting so you will want to clean up the surfaces even though they look clean.
You are the best! Don't every change your presentation methods. I could listen to your instructions for hours at a time. Thank you.
Thanks Bro! I really appreciate what you said. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
26:32 Man you're awesome, right there you decide to just go the extra mile and take the long route to order the shims and show how it works. No corners cut, always doing the job completely. Your work ethic is seriously appreciated Tim!
Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate your kind words. We try out best to be very complete in our presentation of information on the subject matter. It doesn't always go perfectly and we miss things and that's when we add additional information in the video description or a pinned comment so people can see that information before they perform the job. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
I was able to install new rotors and pads following instructions in the video. I only had some dificulties as the lines on my truck had been replaced by metal ones and were on the way to remove the caliper bolts. But I was able to figure how to work around that. Took me longer than expected but I guess it was ok considering it was my first time. Thank you for this excellent video Tim! Would have not been able to make it without it!
Hey Mark, great job getting your first disk brake job done. Now you know that it's really not that hard of a job and also probably realize shops charge entirely too much for it. You're very welcome and it's nice to know our video enabled you to get the job done. Happy Wrenching!
I have done a lot of auto work but it has been years! Your videos are so detailed and precise - I can't say enough how much they help me to get "back in the groove!". Adding to my tool collection as well. Have a 97 4Runner I am in the process of renewing. Thanks again so much for all you do!
Yeah Charles, it's like riding a bike. You might get a bit rusty but you don't forget. Great to hear our videos are helping you get back into the wrenching groove. Good luck with getting your 97 4runner in good shape. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
I just performed the disc brake service on my wife’s 01 SR5 2wd. I’m pretty familiar with disc brakes but it was nice to be able to watch Tim before hand and know exactly what to expect. Thanks again!
Hey Craig, glad our video assisted you with your disk brake job. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Nicely detailed video. Recently did the front pads and rotor replacement on my 2001 4Runner for the 4th time since owning it .. now at 242,000 miles.. First time I encountered a problem with 2 of the caliper bolts not threading back into the caliper. New bolts went in like butter. Upon inspection the threads were very worn. Now I’ll add replacement bolts to future brake job parts list.
Glad you like the video. That's interesting about the bolts. I'm guessing you live in an area where they salt the roads due to icy conditions. I've taken calipers off on many vehicles and the bolts always thread in pretty easily. But, we're in the California Bay Area where corrosion isn't a big issue,
@@TimmyTheToolman I’m in the heart of the rust belt...where lots of salt is used in the winter.. so always fighting corrosion.
Hey where did you get the replacement bolts?
@@TimmyTheToolman what about those that wheel their rigs on the salty pacific beaches? there is another Toyota Maintenance UA-cam channel from a fella up north of you near the border that recently had in a roached out Gen2 Tacoma, it was bad! underneath it like he parked it in the ocean!
@efil4kizum You can ride the sand dunes without much risk. But, if you're driving in the wet sand or straight up in the salt water, that is just asking for nasty corrosion.
THANK YOU TIMMY. Your videos have saved me plenty of headaches and $$$$.
You're very welcome Allen. Great to hear our videos are helping you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Your videos are awesome! I have learned so much from them, I love the detail you provide. Thank you Tim!!!
Thanks for the nice compliment Federico. We really appreciate it. Great to hear you appreciate the detail we offer in our videos. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Thank you again Tim! You are my go to whenever I need to work on my 4Runner.
You're very welcome Posen. I'm happy our videos are helping you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
I went to do rotors and pads on my dad's 04 Tacoma and ended up having to change the calipers too because the pins were welded to the calipers. The ends mushroomed from the pounding I gave them. Side note: always good to mention pumping the brake pedal after changing the pads because you will have zero brake pedal at first. Loving the vids as always.
I'm guessing you live in an area where they salt the roads and you have lots of rust to deal with. That would suck to have to chuck the rotors because you couldn't get the pins free.
That's a good point about pumping the brake pedal. I don't if you would necessarily have zero brakes but it will be soft at first and might shock and scare you thinking the brakes aren't working. Glad you like the video.
@@TimmyTheToolman Northern Virginia, not as bad as some places, but enough salt on the roads for the rust gremlins. Usually that first pump can go to the floor, but the second is nice and firm. I only mention it because I've heard stories of people crashing into their garages. Doing the brakes outside and when done pulling back in and not stopping before they hit the wall. It is pretty amazing how much places charge to do pads and rotors. Easily save hundreds by doing it yourself. The hardest is doing it for the first time because it can feel a bit overwhelming. Another reason you have great videos. You show everything with good directions and clear video. Not to mention giving torque values which I appreciate.
@@MS-hd8yq Yeah, I guess if you're in tight spaces, I can see how the brakes being soft at first and going to the floor could cause problems. When I did brakes on my rigs, I can't remember what my first brake pedal pump felt like but I figure it would be natural for someone to test the brake pedal feel before putting the vehicle in gear but I guess not. Common sense isn't always common.
When people on forums share what a shop or dealership quoted them for a brake job, I always shake my head in disbelief. An experienced mechanic can do a front brake job in a half hour tops but the shop will bill 2 hours labor or something crazy like that. And Yes, the goal of our videos is to empower people to pick up a wrench and give auto mechanics a go. We tell people all the time that if they have the Right Information, Right Tools, and Right Level of Patience, they can handle most of their own automotive work. Thanks for the kind words. We appreciate it! Happy Wrenching!
Thank you for your video. It allowed me to do the change seamlessly.
You're very welcome. Great to hear our video helped you out and thanks for taking the time to comment.
...Tim, thanks for another great video.....am looking forward to doing my first disc brake job on my 2000 4Runner when the time comes...would have felt intimidated w/o your advice...great to be
able to do it myself...save some money and know it was done right. Keep the videos coming !
You're welcome Ken. Making this video was long overdue. A disk brake service is very straightforward on most vehicles and it always amazes me when I hear how much shops want to charge for labor to do it. Have fun with the job and let us know how it went for you.
Again many thx Timmy for making this vid. I got LC Prado 90 2001, I think its named Colorado in US. Its basicly same construction with Tacoma. My mechanic forgot to put those shems on place it was pretty noisy while braking. All solved now 😊.
I'm happy to know our video helped you out. Good job fixing the screw-up of your mechanic. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for another great video Timmy. I had to replace rotors and pads on my Prado and this helped out a lot. I have discs all round. Long story short, ended up having to replace handbrake linings and springs that sit inside the rear discs. Your recent video on having patience, using the right tools and taking regular time out got a fair run on this part of the work. Very happy to say job is done, done right thanks to you.
Hey Andrew, good to hear our video helped you out and you were able to persevere on a job that ended up being more involved than your thought. Great job and Happy Wrenching!
This video is going to save me so much money. I have two 3rd gen 4Runners.
Hey Richard, good to hear our video is going to help you out. It really is crazy how much shops charge for a simple disk brake job and you can save significant money doing it yourself. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman just finished and everything went very well. I did make a minor change. Instead of pushing the fluid back into the master cylinder, I opened the bleed valve and pushed it out there. Quick bleed after the install and all was good. Broke off a bolt on the brake line hanger but it should be a pretty easy fix. Thanks again! Great video.
@@themightygoose1 Good to hear it went well for you.
Timmy, you are the best!
Ahh shucks. Thanks!
Did my man just say “chingadera “? . . . Nice🤙🏼
Yes I did. Use it all the time. Glad you approve of my verbiage.
Haha😁
@@TimmyTheToolman on behalf on the Mexican community, we approve 🤝
@@davidzoyoquila941 Thanks Dave.
Nice. Just did this on my 1990 Toyota Pickup. Need to do the drums soon. Video coming for a drum brake job? That job is intimidating to me.
dcabinet drum brakes aren’t too bad. It’s a good idea to take pictures so you can remember how they go back together. We made a video for drum brakes on our 3rd gen Toyota 4Runner. Here is the link.
ua-cam.com/video/IJkVEBYSecs/v-deo.html
Great Video plan on changing mine front brakes soon. I have a 2014 Toyota Tacoma. Very informative and step by step. Safe me a lot of money.
Glad you found our video helpful and good luck with the job.
Best brake pads I have ever uses is Hawk Performance brake pads love there blue box and red box sets
Never tried them but thanks for the tip.
Great detail my man ! Just got a 3rd Gen 4Runner I think the brakes are about the same ?! Yeah ?
Yep, pretty’ much the same Roberto. Glad you like the video. Good luck with the job.
Great video, Tim. I'm going to tackle this today, thanks for posting.
Is RSVP for Sicmods bbq 2022 closed? I don't see the video for that anymore.
Party was canceled
Pumping out the videos today!
I reckon we are Jed. Sometimes when it rains, it pours. Other times, we are in a drought. It just all depends what Sean and I have going on in our work and personal lives to crank out new content.
Hi Timmy
Amazing as always mate. Could you please let me know which service manual you refer to while repairing for the gen3 . I need to get one and unable to find the correct one. Help is much appreciated. A picture of the front cover will be of great help
Here’s one! It’s for a 1999, what year do you have?
www.ebay.com/itm/1999-Toyota-4-Runner-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual-Book-/131667557695?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Nice brake job brother Tim!! Keep 4Running!
Thanks Brother Jake!
Hey Timmy, I don't even bother with resurfacing since rotors are so cheap on Rockauto. In fact, sometimes it costs more to resurface.
Yep, lots of guys don't bother resurfacing rotors anymore. But, we spent $30 to get it done and we were able to keep Toyota OEM rotors on the rig. You're not getting OEM quality rotors at Rock Auto for $30. If you can find a shop that resurfaces the rotors for a decent price, I think it's worth it.
Great video timmy nice informative video keep up the great work bro
Thanks Antonio
i had unequal pad wear.. it was due to pistons having some corrosion on it, it was really tiny, but after cleaning and servicing them pad wear was back to normal
Good job!
great video thank you!
Thanks Jackson. You're very welcome.
thx Timmy I love you.
You've very welcome.
Timmy nice videos as always and the funny part you learned spanish at 32:54 you said "chingadera"
Yeah, i guess you didn't know I was bilingual now.
11:35 ... dealer front brake service (199$ special included parts and resurface rotors) apparently did NOT include checking and adjusting fluid level in the res. I found the fluid COMPLETELY full to the cap after pushing pistons back in on 4mm pads. I asked if they bled the brakes after pushing pistons back for new OEM pads and they said they did not have to bleed them. so i just used one of those suction basters to remove quite a bit of the extra out carefully to bring it back down to the max level... if this brake fluid expands under temps or pressure it may have blow the cap OFF of the resevoir!
That's a total Rookie job, not understanding that when you compress the caliper pistons to fit in the new pads, that brake fluid you displaced goes somewhere, and that somewhere is the master cylinder. This is more proof it's better do do your own work.
Love your videos Timmy. Keep them coming.
Thanks. Great to hear you like what we're doing.
Awesome video, thanks dude.
Thanks and you're very welcome.
I just did front rotors calipers rear drums wheel cylinder shots all 3 flex lines as well as front caliper to flex line brake lines master cylinder and brake booster on my 3rd gen 4runner wish I could put my front calipers on the rear and take the drums out but nobody makes a drum to caliper kit that uses 4runners original calipers
I don't think rear disk brakes would make a big difference anyway. 75% of your braking strength comes from the front. I would never hassle with a rear disk brake conversion.
Love your vids! I recently did the brakes all around on my 07 Fj cruiser, driver side had a seized piston. Ended up replacing all 4 calipers with Napa remans. Went with a powerstop pad and rotor kit, which I’m not having a squealing issue but I am experiencing a metallic pop/pinging sound once going from drive and beginning to reverse in some situations. Some research points me to an issue that many Toyota trucks have in that the pads shift and can make a pop sound when changing directions. I did reinstall the one lower pad spring, everything is torqued properly, and I know the dust shield isn’t inferring with anything. Have you come across this before? Wondering if I should shim the pads with the oem parts as I tossed mine as they were in bad shape. May also try adding a second spring clip, as there are provisions for them, though I know from the factory they only use the one spring. Thanks for any input.
The second spring clip might help. Lots of guys do this including myself. Why these kits don't come with two springs in the first place doesn't make sense. You could pick up another spring at an auto parts store by giving them your year and model truck. The other parts you threw away are the anti-squeal shims. I don't think those being missing could be causing the problem you're experiencing. Try the second spring first and see how it goes.
Timmy The Toolman sounds good, that was my next plan of action also. It’s just hard to diagnose as I replaced everything in the front end short of the steering rack and wheel bearings, so there are many variables. But all the Ball joints are lubed and torqued properly. Same with the new lower control arms, driveshaft is lubed, Rebuilt the axles with high angle boots, I didn’t experience any issues with the cv axles prior to this and I get no noise when turning, and this is only apparent with direction changes. Also installed fox 2.5 coilovers so spring bind was a thought, but I’m within the tolerances called for by fox for preload, swaybar was removed to rule that out. I did drive it a bit before doing the brakes and this problem didn’t present itself then, so Im thinking the culprit most likely has to be the brakes. Thanks again for the vids you put out, they were useful on the axle rebuild process and diff seal replacement. (Just wish I saw your vid on the needle bearing, when I had everything torn down, though I don’t have a gross amount of movement, yet lol)
@@lilbabykenny Well, hopefully the additional spring fixes the issue. Let me know if it did.
do you think its dangerous or not good to reinstall new pads and rotors WITHOUT the anti squeel shims? im putting new rotors and pads on right now and the old pads do not have any of these shims :( ive already done one side but not sure about the other since i dont have these shims.. my old brakes performed just fine without them, no noise and strong. 98 4 runner
Hey Evan, it's not dangerous to leave the anti-squeal shims out. They are there to reduce brake noise.
I watched a lot of your videos and some other ones I’ve never seen that tire trick I have some decent rims that I purchased and I’m so scared to scratch him on the inside barrel this is gonna work So much better the inside of my door says 26 pounds for tire pressure with the 16 inch rims 265 70 16 If you have a moment can you let me know what you think about that tire pressure 26 pounds
30-35 pounds is usually what I use. 26 seems a bit light.
Timmy, great video. The high level of detail is greatly appreciated! A couple of questions:
1) Is the there an inner or outer brake pad? OR, are the they not specific? I’ve heard mixed reports on this.
2) Does it make sense to wirewheel the inside of the wheel (where it contacts the rotor? AND, does it make sense to wirewheel the area around the lug studs before putting on the new rotors?
Thanks for all the efforts you and your team put into making these videos.
Glad you like the video Jim. Some brake pad set-ups do have a distinct inner and outer pad, like my girlfriend's BMW Z3 which has a brake pad wear indicator that's electronic and only connects to one of the two pads. But, for most disk brake systems, it doesn't matter which pad goes where, they're interchangeable. Wire wheeling corrosion off the surfaces mentioned might not be a bad idea. Is it necessary? Yeah, maybe if the corrosion is bad. Rotors are well known for getting stuck onto the face of the hubs so cleaning up the face of the hub and maybe even applying a light layer of antisieze to the face of the hub before putting the rotor on might be a good idea for anyone who lives in an area where they salt the roads in icy conditions.
Mine the passenger side was gone on outer pad passenger side inner bad was fine and driver side pads had more then 60 percent life I replaced my calipers all new complete brake fluid flush and clean
Well, there seems to be a trend that the passenger side wears faster than the driver side. Maybe a slight amount more fluid pressure is going to the passenger side than the driver side.
Hi timy love your videos what brake rotors you recomend that will last and won't Warp for 98 tacoma
You can't go wrong with OEM. For aftermarket, Napa Premium rotors seem to be good. Rotors don't actually warp from the heat. They can wear unevenly or get uneven brake deposits but they don't actually overheat and bend. Glad you like the videos Sean and I are making.
Tim, just wondering why you did not bleed the brakes after replacing the pads, great opportunity with both wheels off.
I'm guessing you meant renewing the fluid. The brakes didn't needing bleeding per say, but I could have renewed the fluid for my friend Alex which would have been a nice additional thing to do at the same time.
I'm confused; in the video you didn't install the extra shims & only went with the duralast shims, yet you ordered the oem shim set as well.
Anyway, I'm about to do this job for the 1st time. My 98 v6 taco didn't come with those slotted shims, only a solid shim (painted black on one side, metallic on the other). I bought those same duralast pads which came with their own shims attached. So should I add my old, single oem shim in addition to the duralast shims? Or, should I be fine just going with the duralast shims only?
In the video, I just wanted to show people what the stock anti-squeal shim set looked like. That's why you didn't see me use them with the pads my buddy bought. If you ordered OEM Toyota pads, you'd want to reuse the old shim set with them. You don't need to use your old solid shims with those Duralast pads. Somebody on a previous brake job must have thrown away the slotted OEM shims.
Hey Tim. Awesome video! Quick question: is it necessary to lift truck on 6 ton jacks. I don't have 6 ton jacks so I has thinking about change one rotor at a time using my regular car jack. Do you see any issues doing it that way?
That is dangerous Marx. You never want to rely solely on the stock car jack if you can help it. When you're on the road and get a flat, it's your only choice, but when doing repairs at home, it's much better to have your rig supported by a quality jack stand. Your health or your life is worth the expense of buying yourself some jack stands. If money is super tight right now, you could use cribbing as a backup support. We use it in the fire service. You could use wood 4x4 pieces to build a box under a support area. We use the cribbing in conjunction with air bags. As we lift the vehicle with air bags, we build up the cribbing under a frame member or edge of the body on a unibody design. If the air bags fail, the cribbing is our backup. In your circumstance, if the jack fails, the frame or support member will drop onto the cribbing and will save your life. But, if you have the money, I highly encourage you to make the investment in a good set of jack stands.
@@TimmyTheToolman appreciate the explanation and feedback!
@@marxccc You're welcome!
Hi Tim working on my 3rd Gen. I bought factory pads. One pad has twin opposing wear tabs one oad has single wear tab. Which is inside and which is outside ? Thanks! Chase in Alabama.
It doesn't matter which side they go in. The wear tabs are just there to alert you when you're getting close to going metal on metal. I wondered the same thing if it mattered and came up with the conclusion it really doesn't.
if the rotors look OK, is it possible to just pop out the pads without removing caliper from knuckle and pop new ones in? what sort of special tool do they use to compress the pistons back for the new pads to fit doing it that way? ... current dealer front brake specials are running 199$ + fees not sure if that includes resurfacing rotors if necessary but it just might!?
Yes, you can pop out the pads without removing the calipers. Before removing the pads, you could try squeezing the caliper in by grabbing the ears of the brake pad and the outside of the caliper with a large channel locks and compressing them. Once you get a little space between the pad and rotor, you could insert a pry bar wrapped in tape to protect the rotor and further pry to push the caliper pistons in.
You will get better braking and limit any shuddering by either resurfacing the rotors or replacing them. $199 for a brake job definitely doesn't include replacing the rotors because OEM rotors are expensive. I would imagine it would include resurfacing them. But, rotors need a minimum amount of material for them to be resurfaced. If after resurfacing the rotors, they will not have the minimum width, they will have to be replaced and then I know that $199 brake job will turn into a $400-$500 brake job.
@@TimmyTheToolman currently the MSRP on OEM rotors is 85$ each... after 33% from the cyber genuine yota parts dealers it is 58$ each + free shipping from certain cyber dealers ... at 250k miles i just went ahead and replaced the original rotor disks with some new ones. but now i really want to change the powerstop brand pads that were used because those put out an insane amount of brake dust all over the wheels turned black. I have some Raybestos pads from RockAuto to give a try. i likely need to get some new slide pins also due to corrosion
@@efil4kizum That's a real good deal on rotors. As for pads, OEM is another great choice.
Timmy the tool man! What’s up boss I did my brakes for the first time on my 2002 4Runner limited and on a cold engine the brake reservoir is full but when it’s hot and used the fluid drops down between min and max is that normal?
I honestly haven't looked at my master cylinders that closely to notice if they drop after the vehicle has been running a bit. As long as your brakes are strong and you're not noticing any leaks, I'd say you’re good. I'd just keep an eye on it for a while to verify it's not dropping anymore leading you to believe you do have a leak.
How do I know if I need to order 297mm or 319mm front disc?
A dealership or parts store can usually determine the size rotor you need from your VIN #.
Getting ready to do this job on my 96 Tacoma and was looking at the passenger side break pads and noticed that the outer pad is wearing significantly more than the inner pad is. Wondering if this is cause of the caliper or fluid ect. Also going to be upgrading to stainless steel break lines at the same time to refresh the 28 year old lines. Just wanted to see if anyone knows a fix to this?
@liamroberts7054 It's pretty common for one side to wear faster than the other. I don't think there's a fix. The fluid comes in via the inside side of the caliper and then is dispersed to all 4 pistons. It might have to do with how the fluid is routed and there's more friction loss (pressure loss) on the inside compared to the outside. I've seen the uneven wear on many vehicles. The only thing I think you can try is a caliper rebuild, which renews the rubber seals and dust covers. We have a video for it, but it was done on an 80 Series Land Cruiser. ua-cam.com/video/r_9pPEan9q8/v-deo.htmlsi=jkKU0ZFzeUsfkXup
@@TimmyTheToolman Ok thats what I was thinking just wanted another opinion. Really didn’t want to buy new calipers like to keep the oem. A rebuild probably wouldn’t hurt to do and would be very cheep. Thanks for the fast response. Videos are so helpful have used so many in the last 5 years of owing my tuck.
@liamroberts7054 You're welcome. We're happy to know our videos have helped you out. Happy Wrenching!
The passenger side wears out quicker cause it has the shortest path from the master cylinder. Master cylinder to abs module to caliper. Abs module is on passenger inner fender
Casey Daniel Very interesting. Thanks for sharing this.
@riikerman I think he's saying the fluid flows from the master cylinder to the ABS module and then to the individual wheels. I haven't followed the line path so I can't say for sure what he's telling us makes sense.
@riikerman Thats true on some vehicles but this tacoma has abs. The brake line runs from the master cylinder to the abs module on the passenger fender then from there are separate brakes to the front wheels. i work on these all time the front brakes on the passenger side are always a little bit lower.
Hey Timmy, I got a weird one for you. I did a brake job and changed my rotors to drilled and slotted with new pads. I noticed the top of the pad didn’t sit evenly with the rotor. The pins that go through the rotor sits the pad about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the rotor. I thought I had ordered the wrong rotors but double checked and verified they were correct. I even bought another set of rotors from O’Reillys and the pads sit the same way. I even bought another set of pads to see if that was the culprit. Same result. Am I missing something?
No clue other than the parts store's computer spitting out wrong information. Did you compare the old parts with the new parts?
@@TimmyTheToolman I did. Looked to be a perfect match. I based the rotor off the sticker on the driver door for a 15 inch wheel. I have 17 inch wheels on it now. Maybe the calipers are sized for a 16 inch wheel. I have a 2002 4Runner SR5 4WD.
@@ccrook12 Yeah, that might be it. There's different calipers on there than you thought.
@@TimmyTheToolman that was exactly it.
@@ccrook12 Good to hear you figured it out.
His truck wore out the pads before he got tired of rotor shudder? Impressive! Maybe that’s not as much of a problem in the lighter Tacomas vs the Tundras?
He wasn't getting any shudder. He just had a squealing sound and we determined it was due to the brake pad wear indicator rubbing on the rotor.
Our (heavier) Toyotas seem to need rotor work long before the pads are gone. They function fine, but pulsation can be irritating after awhile. The next time I change them I’ll try the breaking-in method to see if better, more uniform pad contact helps prolong the rotors.
@@koomo801 Make sure you are utilizing engine braking. If you don't know what I mean, it means using the transmission gearing to increase the rpms of the engine. A lot of people with automatic transmissions don't know they can downshift just like people do with their manual transmissions. When I want to slow myself down on a grade, the first step is turning overdrive off. Then next downshift is shifting into 2nd. The final downshift if it's really steep and you need to go slow is shift into low. Any time you're descending a grade and you find yourself needing to ride the brakes a lot, you're doing something wrong. Ideally you're using engine braking to slow your rig down so you only have to use the brakes moderately. Less heavy braking will lessen the heat build up on the rotors. When you superheat the rotors and then come to a stop, you end up imprinting pad material onto the rotor. It's a common misconception that the rotors actually warp. What's actually happening is the rotors are getting uneven brake deposits on them causing the shuddering.
I'm an engine-braker in an automatic and I STILL get the "warped" rotors (3rd gen) despite being super easy on the brakes. Haven't been able to find anyone that turns rotors on a lathe anymore. Disappointing to have to replace rotors with so much metal left on them! You make the best car DIY vids out there Timmy, keep it up.
@@anthonyk5496 Hey Anthony, that's interesting you're still having trouble with your rotors even though you're using engine braking. Are you regularly going down steep grades? My brakes shuddered really bad on my 2000 4runner when I bought it. I changed the rotors and pads and was mindful to not overheat my brakes and my braking has been pretty good ever since. That's too bad you can't find a place to resurface your rotors. I think maybe lots of shops stopped doing it because there was no business due to most people just opting to toss their OEM rotors and replace them with cheap aftermarket ones. Thanks for the nice compliment. Sean and I appreciate it!
Hey Timmy I installed some new rotors and pads from Napa on my 2016 4Runner and the first set of rotors egged out and I had a shimmy in the steering and then I replaced them with some other rotors also from Napa and they shimmied also after I replaced those although they did not shimmy right away they ended up still egging out should I be using Toyota parts for these brakes I can't figure out what's going on why they keep shimmying please help
I've used the Napa premium rotors with good luck in the past. Do you drive down mountain grades a lot and ride the brakes? This shouldn't happen to new rotors quickly. It usually happens from uneven wear or brake pad deposits from searing the pads into super hot rotors creating unevenness in the braking surface.
@@TimmyTheToolman so what would the fix be besides not riding the brakes because I don't know if my wife will stop riding them and yes she does go down mountain roads you are good mister do you know my wife hahaha thanks
@@DaveSarmiento-c4w You have to teach your wife to use engine braking. An automatic trans can be used just like a manual trans. You use the transmission gears and engine to slow the vehicle down. When traveling down a grade, you should not need to constantly ride the brakes if you're choosing the proper gear. Occasional braking is ok, riding them is not. With my 3rd Gen 4runner, my first downshift is turning overdrive off. if I'm still traveling too fast for the conditions, I shift into 2nd. If the grade is ridiculously steep, I'll even shift into the Low and hit the brakes occasionally to reduce my speed and not over-rev the engine. it's time to teach your wife how to properly negotiate descents without riding the brakes. Lots of people don't know how to employ engine braking and these are the people who burn up brakes, or worse yet, overheat their brakes, experience brake fade and then have a terrible accident. What you teach your wife might one day save her life and the life of others.
Thanks Timmy I appreciate all of your input you are the best
@@DaveSarmiento-c4w You're very welcome!
Have you tried the akebono brake pad brand?
No, we haven't tried that brand out. We usually try to stick with OEM Toyota pads. I have used some ceramic pads I bought through Napa Auto Parts which have served me well over the last 5 years.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks. I live un Guatemala and OEM are to expensive...thanks for writing back.
@@monchitoscalecrawling5035 You'll be fine with aftermarket pads. The Akebono pads look like they get good reviews online so they look like a safe bet. If you ever visit the California Bay Area, contact me.
I read somewhere that akebono manufactures the toyota OEM pads...
Don't forget to pump the brake pedal a few times when this job is completed, you'll be in for a surprise the first time you go to use your brakes if you don't.
Thanks for the tip.
I found rotors for 146 dollers for a set of 2 and that drilled and slotted rotors
It's hard to beat OEM though.
@@TimmyTheToolman very true
Not trying to cast dispersions on anyone, but your videos are a cut above almost all of what is available on UA-cam.
Thanks for nice compliment Cameron. We appreciate it!
Its only 80ft-lbs
What is only 80 ft-lbs? You see, we've removed more than just the brake calipers. Maybe you're talking about the wheel lug nuts. Anyway, it doesn't really matter. The torque values we give in the video are 100% correct.
Do you know the specs to tight those nuts for a 1999 4runner?
Same spec. The 3rd Gen 4runner and 1st Gen Tacoma are identical in this regard.