And also for anybody who doesn't have the timing cover. You can hook the timing light up just like jafro did nd you can take a white out pen or paint marker and mark the center of your cam gears. And strobe the light at it in the same manor.
Hi Jafro! Great Video, I set my idle in my ECMLink at 950... If I want to set the ISCPosition value correctly should I lower it to 750? Or Can I set the ISCPosition value at 30 with my revs at 950?
You want it at 30 with whatever idle you have selected. Think of it like its operating range. It needs 70% headroom to be able to adjust for different running conditions and electrical loads. ;)
Hey Jafro, I currently have a speeduino board and do you have any idea how to wire the 6 pin iacv to the four stepper driver motor output wires and what usually the home steps for the 1g 4g63?
hi jafro I have followed your page and has been my go to source for when Im having issues. I wanted to ask because of ecmlink technically shouldnt you have to ground the ecu to adjust the biss? not sure I thought you have to ground the diagnose pin to ecu or do you ground the timing to ecu?
i have a ques for you.is it possible to remove the egr valve/vaccum lines/solenoids on the firewall from a 2g with stock intake manifold and TB?with out it running like poop or throwin me a code?id like to give it a more clean look under the hood without all that ugly crap there
is it difficult to set the timing on one of these cars? i'm trying to buy one but the guys says its running rough because the timing is off, and i'd have to reset the timing before i drove it. do you have any insight? or could PM me with details?
That didn't look right, i dont think it should be at 40psi with the line on. Its supposed to be like 43.5 with the line off and then when you hook the line up it drops to the 30's. With the V3 you can put whatever base fuel pressure you want and it calculates the new global. With link i dont even turn the car on, i just push the fuel pump on button. Can you adjust 97-99 timing? I didn't know the gun still works on the COP, i just keep a spare stock coil pack and wires around.
so I tried doing what you did. when I change the biss screw the iscposition doesn't change? am I doing something wrong? I did the tps adjust on dsmlink and my tps offset is -6 and scale is 116 % and the iscposition is staying around 15
Sgt Balestrini Nah, probably not. It's probably just operating out of range. You can read the value with an OBD-II logger, and you want it hovering around 30, car fully warmed up, all electrical accessories off. If you can get access to an OBD-II scan tool, you can set it... and if you want to see if your ISC moor is bad, I have a video about that, too. 3 quick tests with a multimeter. Just keep in mind that if it's bad, you were more likely to have adjusted the screw BECAUSE it's bad than it happening the other way around. All having it set wrong causes is for it to operate in the wrong range. If set extremely out-of-wack, it just means that all of its operating time occurs only in one position. More run-time on that one particular coil. That's all.
@@Jafromobile Hi man, I'm trying to make work a 90 ecu on a 91 wiring harness, I have a 91 N/T big throttle body, 91 + ISC plastic, I swapped pin 14 to pin 6 on ECU, because 90's ecus uses pin 6 for Idle Position switch, however I am confuse about the wiring on the ISC Plug pin 1-3 4-6. I'm trying to make this conversion Do I need to swap pin 58 59 and pin 67 68 as well? I mean pin 59 to 58 position and 58 to 59 67 to 68 position and 68 to 67 position ???
Could use some help if anyone has a idea, I have a 1990 AWD talon, I hear the relay click and the car stall's, check engine light comes on each time, code is O2 sensor???? Now just won't start at all it was intermittent for the most part, anybody have any idea what might be going on?
@Jafromobile What do you mean by "matched content". Im not following. I mean I can search for them and see the link and page to these specfic vids but I can't play them. The page says, "his video is not available on Mobile" or something like that. It's not only your vids but I'm sure you know that.
No. You ground the timing pin (it's just a checkbox with ECMlink software) when you're setting base timing. That should be done with a timing light first before making idle airflow adjustments. Also, first you want to set your base fuel pressure with the engine off. Set your idle speed in ECMlink and if your BISS screw is in range, you're going to hit it. Just log ISCduty at fully-warmed up idle (fans cycle once then shut off) and with the doors closed and all electrical equipment off, adjust the screw until it hits 30% duty cycle. If the fans cut back on, it's going to mess you up so wait for them to turn off before making further adjustments. Once you've got ISCduty around 30 with everything electrical off with the engine running, you're good. The BISS screw is only a pain to adjust when you don't have ECMlink.
@@Jafromobile Thanks for the response! I do have dsmlink I just wasn't sure about checking the box or not for adjusting the BISS. I didn't even think about the turning off the electrical components. Again thanks for your help.
Yeah man! There are inputs for the power steering and AC compressor and those tell the ECU to bump up the ISC to overcome the drag they create. Powering lights, stereos, blower fans and other things loads up the alternator creating additional drag, and that's what the ISC motor compensates for. When you set your idle speed in ECMlink, and you've achieved the 30% ISC, the ECU does all the rest. :)
You should list the official values for fuel pressure, not stupid ranges. For instance, 41-46 psi is very vague, and it's really supposed to be 42.7 psi. Ranges of values are for people who rely on manuals like Haynes and Chilton, and generally are the types to only really tinker with basic tune-ups. 1G n/a: 47.6 psi 1G turbo manual: 36.3 psi 1G turbo auto: 42.7 psi 2G turbo and 4g64 spyder: 43.5 psi (or 3 bar) 2G 420a: 47-50 psi (420a are the refugees)
My setup here is limited by my modified ignition. I actually managed to clamp it onto the low current signal wires for the coil on plug pack and make it work. Of course it fired twice as often, but it worked. I don't know if the signal wires for the coil managed to trigger the light, or if its close proximity to the coil was what made it work, but it actually worked for me, which I thought was odd. I wasn't expecting the low current trigger wires to do anything at all. On a standard ignition with plug wires, you clamp it on the #1 plug wire because that's the one that's in the correct engine rotation to light up the mark at the right time, and that #1 plug wire provides the magnetic field that triggers the light.
Good video. I was surprised to see the timing light fire as the plug wires fire at 50,000 volts instead of 6-12 volts With the exception of my Matco Oracle scan tool most of my tuning equipment is vintage but very accurate. What is tuning software are you running on your laptop and can you adjust a factory ECM?
The software is ECMlink. It's a DSM-proprietary plug-n-play solution that works on 89-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser models as well as Galant VR-4 and some EVO models. The ECU is modified to enable 2-way communication over OBD-I or OBD-II, and yes, you can completely change everything in the ECU as well as unlock launch control, gear-based boost control and data logging capabilities. I left a ton of other stuff out. A UA-cam comment won't give me enough room to do it justice.
Didn't look like anyone caught this but I didn't read ask comments either. You stated that 1&3 and 2&4 fire together, it's actually 1&4 and 2&3 that fire together, im sure it was just a spoken error, add I'm sure from your videos and the knowledge you are always sharing that you are aware of the watt out waste spark systems work, just wanted to clarify in case it might confuse any new DSM'ers out there.... hard to believe I've been in this DSM game 18 years and still at it tuning, racing and making as good part of my living from DSMs at 40 when I got my first one because I just wanted to build a turbo import for a change back in 98
I thought Everyone has the ability to turn the fuel pump on without starting the car, It happens everytime you turn your key to the On/run position.. Do they make cars that only turn fuel pump on AFTER you start cranking the motor? That seems like it would make for some really slow starts
Kyle Milford Nope. :\ Mitsubishis don't activate the fuel pump unless you're cranking the engine, or key-on-engine-on. I've had lots of mechanics insist that all cars do this when I was troubleshooting fuel issues of the past. They insisted all cars prime the pump at key-on-engine-off, but I have confirmed 4g63-powered Mitsubishis do not. Following their advice would make a DSMer waste time and money replacing a fuel pump. Guilty as charged.
Ah i see, i dont have the wally in this car yet (doing that & AFPR today), my other car was a 420a eclipse and in that model if i remember correctly it primed as soon as key hit the on position.. What if you cranked the car just a second to where the motor didnt fire, and then released to the on position, would it then continue to prime to fuel system?
Kyle Milford for a split second it will, yes. You'll hear the fuel pump and the relay kick off together on a failed start. I suppose mitsubishi's logic is... if you have a good regulator and a returned fuel system, if fuel is going to leak back into the tank, there has to be an air leak... and where there's an air leak, there's a fuel leak. You shouldn't have any fuel leaks so your pump doesn't need to prime. A full fuel line pressurizes instantaneously with the key as long as there's no air in it.
I'm not sure what you did this time around man but this video (which I dont think was in HD) is not watchable on Mobile UA-cam. I'm used to watching your vids on my Iphone 3GS and I've been able to watch ALL of them prior to these two today. I know the other garage one is full HD and probably the reason it can't be seen on Mobile but not sure why this one can't. I believe that all previous vids look fine and you should just keep doing what you were doing. Keep up the good stuff nonetheless.
and this problem is because UA-cam partnered with Warner Music Group and they started putting out claims on every piece of music used in every video. i hate WMG and so does everyone else.
This is for tuning, And basically maintenance.. Not all about gaining power.. Its the required steps before you can actually tune for mods done to the car.. Plenty of DSM's over 400 WHP with all factory options still on the car lol
I'm just getting back into my DSM after 6 years of sitting, glad for your channel!
All that engine work and you still have Cruise Control. A god among men.
8 years since the last comment! I haven’t touched a DSM in 5 years but I always come back and always refer people to the Jaf!
seriously I like your videos man I hope your making more simple videos like this.
I can't compliment you enough on a professional quality effort.
And also for anybody who doesn't have the timing cover. You can hook the timing light up just like jafro did nd you can take a white out pen or paint marker and mark the center of your cam gears. And strobe the light at it in the same manor.
Hi Jafro! Great Video, I set my idle in my ECMLink at 950... If I want to set the ISCPosition value correctly should I lower it to 750? Or Can I set the ISCPosition value at 30 with my revs at 950?
You want it at 30 with whatever idle you have selected. Think of it like its operating range. It needs 70% headroom to be able to adjust for different running conditions and electrical loads. ;)
Hey Jafro, I currently have a speeduino board and do you have any idea how to wire the 6 pin iacv to the four stepper driver motor output wires and what usually the home steps for the 1g 4g63?
hi jafro I have followed your page and has been my go to source for when Im having issues. I wanted to ask because of ecmlink technically shouldnt you have to ground the ecu to adjust the biss? not sure I thought you have to ground the diagnose pin to ecu or do you ground the timing to ecu?
Great choice in music! J5!!
When do we get a 103 class? Been waiting 12 years!
i have a ques for you.is it possible to remove the egr valve/vaccum lines/solenoids on the firewall from a 2g with stock intake manifold and TB?with out it running like poop or throwin me a code?id like to give it a more clean look under the hood without all that ugly crap there
is it difficult to set the timing on one of these cars? i'm trying to buy one but the guys says its running rough because the timing is off, and i'd have to reset the timing before i drove it. do you have any insight? or could PM me with details?
That didn't look right, i dont think it should be at 40psi with the line on. Its supposed to be like 43.5 with the line off and then when you hook the line up it drops to the 30's. With the V3 you can put whatever base fuel pressure you want and it calculates the new global. With link i dont even turn the car on, i just push the fuel pump on button. Can you adjust 97-99 timing? I didn't know the gun still works on the COP, i just keep a spare stock coil pack and wires around.
so I tried doing what you did. when I change the biss screw the iscposition doesn't change? am I doing something wrong? I did the tps adjust on dsmlink and my tps offset is -6 and scale is 116 % and the iscposition is staying around 15
"unless you have means for monitoring, don't turn the BISS screw" whoops! learned something new. My ISC is probably shot now.
Sgt Balestrini Nah, probably not. It's probably just operating out of range. You can read the value with an OBD-II logger, and you want it hovering around 30, car fully warmed up, all electrical accessories off. If you can get access to an OBD-II scan tool, you can set it... and if you want to see if your ISC moor is bad, I have a video about that, too. 3 quick tests with a multimeter.
Just keep in mind that if it's bad, you were more likely to have adjusted the screw BECAUSE it's bad than it happening the other way around. All having it set wrong causes is for it to operate in the wrong range. If set extremely out-of-wack, it just means that all of its operating time occurs only in one position. More run-time on that one particular coil. That's all.
***** I appreciate the help. Right now its hit or miss, sometimes it idles dead at 750, other times its right at 1k. but it doesn't loop.
Sgt Balestrini Watch my ISC video. A cheap $2 Harbor Freight... or a free borrowed multimeter is all it takes to diagnose it.
Will do thanks
@@Jafromobile Hi man, I'm trying to make work a 90 ecu on a 91 wiring harness, I have a 91 N/T big throttle body, 91 + ISC plastic, I swapped pin 14 to pin 6 on ECU, because 90's ecus uses pin 6 for Idle Position switch, however I am confuse about the wiring on the ISC Plug pin 1-3 4-6. I'm trying to make this conversion
Do I need to swap pin 58 59 and pin 67 68 as well?
I mean pin 59 to 58 position and 58 to 59
67 to 68 position and 68 to 67 position ???
Hey, love your vids... Can't watch this on iPad... Says you don't allow viewing on iPad?
are any of the values he talks about in the video different for a 4g64 2.4 turbo motor?
Could use some help if anyone has a idea, I have a 1990 AWD talon, I hear the relay click and the car stall's, check engine light comes on each time, code is O2 sensor???? Now just won't start at all it was intermittent for the most part, anybody have any idea what might be going on?
@Jafromobile What do you mean by "matched content". Im not following. I mean I can search for them and see the link and page to these specfic vids but I can't play them. The page says, "his video is not available on Mobile" or something like that. It's not only your vids but I'm sure you know that.
Do you have to ground out the timing pin in DSMlink? Before adjusting the BISS?
No. You ground the timing pin (it's just a checkbox with ECMlink software) when you're setting base timing. That should be done with a timing light first before making idle airflow adjustments. Also, first you want to set your base fuel pressure with the engine off. Set your idle speed in ECMlink and if your BISS screw is in range, you're going to hit it. Just log ISCduty at fully-warmed up idle (fans cycle once then shut off) and with the doors closed and all electrical equipment off, adjust the screw until it hits 30% duty cycle. If the fans cut back on, it's going to mess you up so wait for them to turn off before making further adjustments. Once you've got ISCduty around 30 with everything electrical off with the engine running, you're good. The BISS screw is only a pain to adjust when you don't have ECMlink.
@@Jafromobile Thanks for the response! I do have dsmlink I just wasn't sure about checking the box or not for adjusting the BISS. I didn't even think about the turning off the electrical components. Again thanks for your help.
Yeah man! There are inputs for the power steering and AC compressor and those tell the ECU to bump up the ISC to overcome the drag they create. Powering lights, stereos, blower fans and other things loads up the alternator creating additional drag, and that's what the ISC motor compensates for. When you set your idle speed in ECMlink, and you've achieved the 30% ISC, the ECU does all the rest. :)
You should list the official values for fuel pressure, not stupid ranges. For instance, 41-46 psi is very vague, and it's really supposed to be 42.7 psi. Ranges of values are for people who rely on manuals like Haynes and Chilton, and generally are the types to only really tinker with basic tune-ups.
1G n/a: 47.6 psi
1G turbo manual: 36.3 psi
1G turbo auto: 42.7 psi
2G turbo and 4g64 spyder: 43.5 psi (or 3 bar)
2G 420a: 47-50 psi (420a are the refugees)
JEFRO ILL SMOKE ONE FOR U. LIKE YOUR VIDSSSSSSSSSSSS
i found this comment extremely hilarious. Props to you man. Haha!
Why does it say I can't watch on my TV?
Will putting the timing light clamp on a stock ignition feed lime work pr os that only for after market?
My setup here is limited by my modified ignition. I actually managed to clamp it onto the low current signal wires for the coil on plug pack and make it work. Of course it fired twice as often, but it worked. I don't know if the signal wires for the coil managed to trigger the light, or if its close proximity to the coil was what made it work, but it actually worked for me, which I thought was odd. I wasn't expecting the low current trigger wires to do anything at all. On a standard ignition with plug wires, you clamp it on the #1 plug wire because that's the one that's in the correct engine rotation to light up the mark at the right time, and that #1 plug wire provides the magnetic field that triggers the light.
Good video. I was surprised to see the timing light fire as the plug wires fire at 50,000 volts instead of 6-12 volts
With the exception of my Matco Oracle scan tool most of my tuning equipment is vintage but very accurate. What is tuning software are you running on your laptop and can you adjust a factory ECM?
The software is ECMlink. It's a DSM-proprietary plug-n-play solution that works on 89-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser models as well as Galant VR-4 and some EVO models. The ECU is modified to enable 2-way communication over OBD-I or OBD-II, and yes, you can completely change everything in the ECU as well as unlock launch control, gear-based boost control and data logging capabilities. I left a ton of other stuff out. A UA-cam comment won't give me enough room to do it justice.
Didn't look like anyone caught this but I didn't read ask comments either. You stated that 1&3 and 2&4 fire together, it's actually 1&4 and 2&3 that fire together, im sure it was just a spoken error, add I'm sure from your videos and the knowledge you are always sharing that you are aware of the watt out waste spark systems work, just wanted to clarify in case it might confuse any new DSM'ers out there.... hard to believe I've been in this DSM game 18 years and still at it tuning, racing and making as good part of my living from DSMs at 40 when I got my first one because I just wanted to build a turbo import for a change back in 98
I thought Everyone has the ability to turn the fuel pump on without starting the car, It happens everytime you turn your key to the On/run position.. Do they make cars that only turn fuel pump on AFTER you start cranking the motor? That seems like it would make for some really slow starts
Kyle Milford Nope. :\ Mitsubishis don't activate the fuel pump unless you're cranking the engine, or key-on-engine-on. I've had lots of mechanics insist that all cars do this when I was troubleshooting fuel issues of the past. They insisted all cars prime the pump at key-on-engine-off, but I have confirmed 4g63-powered Mitsubishis do not. Following their advice would make a DSMer waste time and money replacing a fuel pump. Guilty as charged.
Ah i see, i dont have the wally in this car yet (doing that & AFPR today), my other car was a 420a eclipse and in that model if i remember correctly it primed as soon as key hit the on position.. What if you cranked the car just a second to where the motor didnt fire, and then released to the on position, would it then continue to prime to fuel system?
Kyle Milford for a split second it will, yes. You'll hear the fuel pump and the relay kick off together on a failed start. I suppose mitsubishi's logic is... if you have a good regulator and a returned fuel system, if fuel is going to leak back into the tank, there has to be an air leak... and where there's an air leak, there's a fuel leak. You shouldn't have any fuel leaks so your pump doesn't need to prime. A full fuel line pressurizes instantaneously with the key as long as there's no air in it.
I'm not sure what you did this time around man but this video (which I dont think was in HD) is not watchable on Mobile UA-cam. I'm used to watching your vids on my Iphone 3GS and I've been able to watch ALL of them prior to these two today. I know the other garage one is full HD and probably the reason it can't be seen on Mobile but not sure why this one can't.
I believe that all previous vids look fine and you should just keep doing what you were doing. Keep up the good stuff nonetheless.
I can't watch on iPhone :(
oh shiet..had mine hooked up and psi is set to 42.3 psi. damnnnn itttt...
Running a little rich then? :)
Jafromobile yess i am
Jafromobile would this be an answer as to where i had to replace my sparkplugs 3x now
If they're coming out brown, yes.
and this problem is because UA-cam partnered with Warner Music Group and they started putting out claims on every piece of music used in every video. i hate WMG and so does everyone else.
i never get paid either, unless you're a youtube partner you really don't get anything
Thank you!
I'll just PM you
Jafro please make this viewable on mobile devices!
Just a thought-----But why go through all this to gain Hp.But insist on having power steering power brakes and AC.
This is for tuning, And basically maintenance.. Not all about gaining power.. Its the required steps before you can actually tune for mods done to the car.. Plenty of DSM's over 400 WHP with all factory options still on the car lol