Thanks Todd for taking the time to share. Daughter is a uni student and was quoted $650 AUD to replace. I completed in 30 mins $140 in driveway thanks to your great video. Cheers, your a good human.
I appreciate that you didn't talk to much and it was peaceful in your shop. Rather mesmerizing to see your methodology at work. I look forward to the day when I have clarity like you. It such a joy & satisfaction to do mechanics work. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the lesson... I am a 79 year old retired mechanic and you gave me what I need to tackle this job myself...This is very simple compared to what I have gotten into in the past.... Thanks for the video... well done...
And to think I'd been pressing bearings this whole time. A fools made of me to think I never thought to search for the hub assembly and bearings. Thanks mate!
Thanks for posting this video! It got me through a project i had never done before. Just a note to anyone who is doing this without the aid of air tools: Pick up a loaner set of jaw pullers (the front end tools set at Advance Auto) and a slide hammer that you can attach to the lug nuts to remove the hub from the knuckle. the pullers helped me get the CV joint out of the hub with zero damage. and I did not have the slide hammer. After 140k miles, that hub did not want to let go like in the video.Took me an hour of hammering and prying before it finally let go!
I just finished this on a 2013 Subaru legacy 2.5i. A couple of things for people that live in the Northeast like I do. Dont bother with a combination of PB blaster and whacking with a sledgehammer. My secret weapon (after a LOT of struggling) believe it or not turned out to be a dremel tool. I could not get that wheel bearing assembly to budge. In fact I separated the part with the lug bolts after hammering it. So what I did was take my dremel tool with a 1 1/4 cutting disc set on 35 for rpms and actually cut into the corrosion/rust where the wheel bearing assembly meets the dust shield. The combination of heat and cutting the corrosion lead to the wheel bearing breaking free after 2 whacks. Make sure to use plenty of copper anti-seize on all surfaces for future replacement. As a sidenote make sure you have several sizes of 1/4 extensions, 14mm sockets (flexible also) and a 9" flex head 1/4 ratchet if you arent using air tools like the video poster. It can be a real battle to get those 4 bolts holding on the wheel bearing assembly when you have to keep pressing on the spindle.
Dope video man! I really appreciate you taking out the time to record it and show us how its done, i'm on my way to the hobby shop now and I feel pretty good.
For future reference, could you add a required tool list to your descriptions for the people that need to do a quick search? Another thing that may help would be some close up freeze frames with markups to show where all the bolts are for beginners that have never done this, as it may help them, and get you more views. Other than that, great video.
Fixed my wife's car thanks to this video, thanks for the great walk through! I think I might be ready to move ahead to the CV axle on my Subaru, we'll see!
GREAT VIDEO, Thanks for the visual instructions, you did a great job!! Did it right, your customers are getting there money's worth. Nice to see a professional mechanic in todays world!!! Keep up the good work.
Couple of hints, undo the drive shaft nut with wheel on the ground before starting. If the bearing assembly is really stuck, undo the retaining bolts a half turn each, and drive it round the field !! Clear grease spray is very useful when dismantling, goes in like release agent, eases reassembly, and prevents corrosion !
Just like a Dana 30 on a Jeep. Except on a Jeep they're always frozen together. So much so that I have a tool for wedging in between the hub and the caliper mount to force the two apart. Put some anti seize on it when you're done and make your life easier when you have to change it again.
My 2010 Outback came out of NY and everything is rusted in place. The brake dust shields were have rusted away. Nothing on that car is coming out anywhere close to that easy. I can't beat the front axle out with a 10 pound sledge hammer and the bearings sure as hell aren't coming out even with a 10lb slide hammer bolted to the studs
Ugh, Just finish doing my Yukon front rotors, pads, w/struts and rear E-brake shoes with backing plate and shocks, now I have to do this on my Subaru....this sucks. One way to break in brand new knee replacements, do not own new cars. Thanks for the video, hope mine goes smoothly...usually doesn't. SOmething is always rusted in place.
great video. is there any need for grease on any parts or does hub come ready to install. also loctite on bolts or is it worth putting antiseize on? thanks
Good insight into what I'm in store for on my girls Subaru, done LOTS of Gm front and rear hubs (too many) but needed a peek before getting out the chop-sticks and tearing into the rice burner. So glad its a bolt in style and not that mess I saw on the other Subaru pressed in :( it looked very unpleasant. Only thing I might have mentioned is resist the temptation to "impact" the axle nut tight, only hand torque to spec.
Could the "free play" you referenced, also create a clicking sound that almost sounds like a bad strut. I have such a problem with my 2011 and inspected all the visible components and wonder if it's the bearing. Yes, I've lifted the wheel off the ground and turned it side to side and up and down and there doesn't seem to be much play. I'm stumped.
Hey man great video, you taught me a few things. I just bought a 2011 subaru sti. I want to change one of the studs, but I can't seem to get the plate off. There's a bolt in the middle just like the car you are working on, but I noticed you bypassed the bolt and just pulled it off, in my case that doesn't work, does the bolt have to be released to take off the plate? Thanks
At the point where you take out the four bolts the wheel bearing comes loose. I'm stucked there. Mine is not coming out. The cv axel is loose. Any advice.
I watched your rear hub video and it was very helpful, I'm about to do my front with this video but I don't understand what you mean about flat spots on the caliper. this will be my first front job, can you explain a little more about the flat spot , thanks
The inner sleeve of the caliper slide has a nut on it, that the caliper slide bolts thread into. That slide nut has flat spots on it that match up to raised flat spots on the caliper where the "nut" jams against it. Once the nut is seated against the caliper, and the flat spots are matched up, the nut should be right flush tight against the caliper, and also the two flats will be mated flat-to-flat. This prevents the caliper slide "nut" from turning while the caliper slide bolt is tightened. Stay gold.
Did you but any anti seize on the new wheel baring and the knuckle? i didn't see any step in this video for that. Thanks. Good video. Going to do this once i get a torque wrench.
Awfully convenient that the hub just falls off after taking those 4 bolts off lol. Doing this on my car right now and that hub is rusted solid to the axle housing. :(
charged I understand, yep get fairly lucky around here, but being from the midwest, and working on rust buckets there, I remember fighting things. feel your pain.
Fixing cars and stuff Sometimes you get a minimal tolerance part and a maximum tolerance spindle then they slide right off just like yours did. Most of the time it's a 40oz. hammer some cold chisels and about half hour of beating to get them off here in the northeast where road salt is king
Did mine today. Air hammer and slide hammer were useless. Rusted solid and I live in Seattle so the only salt it had seen was driving down the beach at the coast a few times. I ended up taking the whole knuckle off and using a press to get the bearing out. Just use a paint pen to mark the cam bolt for alignment. Word to the wise.
Hey Todd! Do the bearing hub assemblies come pre-pressed? I know that on an older outback (2nd gen/2003) You have to press something. Is that still the case? Or is this just a simple swap job??
I do not know for that specific year, it just depends on the year and model. I would just check on Amazon or your favorite online parts store and input your info and see what pops up and hope that you're lucky and it is a complete assembly. If not you could always take off the steering knuckle and bring it to a machine shop to do the dirty work for you.
love how he torques the assembly's into place two ughs for the brake bracket and a grunt umph and two ughs for the strut to spindle bolts Real precision re assembly here Time for lunch Billy Joe bob
+jackobthesnakob.. you can use the old nut, the dent that was made initially should line back up with the notch on the new spindle, just re-fix it in the notch as shown, new spindle nuts run around $5 each. You may have to push the dent in the top of the nut back more to re-thread it on the new spindle
I'm wondering the same thing. I have an older outback, and the bearing hub assembly for it required some stuff to be pressed. Are these just swap jobs? No pressing required?
I rented one to do a Ford Explo, and the hub piece was waaaay too big for the Subie hub. It was a tight fit on the Explo. Maybe the kit we rented was missing pieces, but I've seen others with that complaint as well.
Why did you stop explaining what you were doing at about the 7:00 minute mark? Your verbal explanation is equallyt as important as the visual, to me. Otherwise, a very good video.
2011 Outback? 🤔 Needs replacing... my 2008 Impreza with over 200K now needs new wheel bearing hub assembly. I wonder why yours needed replacing only after 8 years. 🤔🤔🤔
If you're careful, it can stay put. However, to be safe, I've always removed mine. It's a 10mm bolt, and then a small-medium flat screw driver to gently pry the sensor out of its housing. The only time I would let it be is if it looks like the head of the bolt holding your ABS sensor is rounding off and the bolt is twisting out...then I'd leave it and be very careful working around it.
Question I am a woman, alone by the way and my Subaru Outback 2008 needs this and my mechanic are asking me 504 dollars for the job, would be posible do it by myself, how much would be cost to me? Should I take it to the mechanic?
How many of the tools used do you have, how much do you want to spend to buy the tools to do the job? I know it is a lot of money. what if you run into other problems and you can't put it back together, then you are without your car. How much mechanical experience do you have? Some things to think about. I would generally let someone else do it.
I took mine to pep boys and they wanted to charge me 425.00 dollars, just wanted to compare prices with my mechanic, my mechanic did it for 235. 00, plus pep boys was trying to add other thins that i needed change which was nonsense they wanted to charge me for everything 1500. 00 dollars , do your research with other mechanics
Thanks Todd for taking the time to share. Daughter is a uni student and was quoted $650 AUD to replace. I completed in 30 mins $140 in driveway thanks to your great video. Cheers, your a good human.
I appreciate that you didn't talk to much and it was peaceful in your shop. Rather mesmerizing to see your methodology at work. I look forward to the day when I have clarity like you. It such a joy & satisfaction to do mechanics work. Thanks for the video!
Lucky for having no rust. I’d love to see this job done on an Ontario driven car.
Thanks for the lesson... I am a 79 year old retired mechanic and you gave me what I need to tackle this job myself...This is very simple compared to what I have gotten into in the past.... Thanks for the video... well done...
So cool to see a 79 year old still turning wrenches.
And to think I'd been pressing bearings this whole time. A fools made of me to think I never thought to search for the hub assembly and bearings. Thanks mate!
Thanks for posting this video! It got me through a project i had never done before. Just a note to anyone who is doing this without the aid of air tools: Pick up a loaner set of jaw pullers (the front end tools set at Advance Auto) and a slide hammer that you can attach to the lug nuts to remove the hub from the knuckle. the pullers helped me get the CV joint out of the hub with zero damage. and I did not have the slide hammer. After 140k miles, that hub did not want to let go like in the video.Took me an hour of hammering and prying before it finally let go!
Concise and complete. Love that he doesn't 'skip' steps in the video. My husband thanks you. Subscribed.
I just finished this on a 2013 Subaru legacy 2.5i. A couple of things for people that live in the Northeast like I do. Dont bother with a combination of PB blaster and whacking with a sledgehammer. My secret weapon (after a LOT of struggling) believe it or not turned out to be a dremel tool. I could not get that wheel bearing assembly to budge. In fact I separated the part with the lug bolts after hammering it. So what I did was take my dremel tool with a 1 1/4 cutting disc set on 35 for rpms and actually cut into the corrosion/rust where the wheel bearing assembly meets the dust shield. The combination of heat and cutting the corrosion lead to the wheel bearing breaking free after 2 whacks. Make sure to use plenty of copper anti-seize on all surfaces for future replacement. As a sidenote make sure you have several sizes of 1/4 extensions, 14mm sockets (flexible also) and a 9" flex head 1/4 ratchet if you arent using air tools like the video poster. It can be a real battle to get those 4 bolts holding on the wheel bearing assembly when you have to keep pressing on the spindle.
These videos always look so easy...meanwhile I go to take the wheel off and my drive shaft snaps, my diff loses all oil, and my radiator explodes.
Not to mention the time. if a job on YT takes 20 minutes it’ll take me about 10 hours. So many variables especially with older cars
Dope video man! I really appreciate you taking out the time to record it and show us how its done, i'm on my way to the hobby shop now and I feel pretty good.
For future reference, could you add a required tool list to your descriptions for the people that need to do a quick search? Another thing that may help would be some close up freeze frames with markups to show where all the bolts are for beginners that have never done this, as it may help them, and get you more views. Other than that, great video.
Good video. Helped me immensely replacing the hub with my 2014. Thank you!
Gave me the tips I needed to get the job done. Thanks for going to the trouble to share.
Fixed my wife's car thanks to this video, thanks for the great walk through! I think I might be ready to move ahead to the CV axle on my Subaru, we'll see!
GREAT VIDEO, Thanks for the visual instructions, you did a great job!! Did it right, your customers are getting there money's worth. Nice to see a professional mechanic in todays world!!! Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the instruction. Looks like my daughter's Legacy will be needing this soon. Seems simple enough. Thanks again.
I just did mine after watching this video. Thanks!
Finally,, someone that speaks SUBARU!!!
Excellent video... walked right through every step with great visual. Saved me some scratch for sure!
very informative. thanks for taking the time to post this. going to replace a bad hub on my daughters 2008 legacy.
I’m about to do one on my 2016. I’m pretty sure it’s the exact same setup as the years you state in the video title.
thankyou so much from the bottom of my heart. tutorial is 100% accurate
Extremily nice and clear video and very helpful just what I need to watch, thanks very much for sharing and regards.
it would be helpful if you listed the socket sizes and tools used. You do for some but not for all. Thanks a ton!
axle nut 32mm, caliper bracket 17mm. I'm not sure about the others but I think the hub bolts are 14mm, and the caliper pins at either 12 or 10mm.
thank you so much ! you just saved me hundreds of dollars !!
Couple of hints, undo the drive shaft nut with wheel on the ground before starting. If the bearing assembly is really stuck, undo the retaining bolts a half turn each, and drive it round the field !! Clear grease spray is very useful when dismantling, goes in like release agent, eases reassembly, and prevents corrosion !
Just like a Dana 30 on a Jeep. Except on a Jeep they're always frozen together. So much so that I have a tool for wedging in between the hub and the caliper mount to force the two apart. Put some anti seize on it when you're done and make your life easier when you have to change it again.
My 2010 Outback came out of NY and everything is rusted in place. The brake dust shields were have rusted away. Nothing on that car is coming out anywhere close to that easy. I can't beat the front axle out with a 10 pound sledge hammer and the bearings sure as hell aren't coming out even with a 10lb slide hammer bolted to the studs
Ugh, Just finish doing my Yukon front rotors, pads, w/struts and rear E-brake shoes with backing plate and shocks, now I have to do this on my Subaru....this sucks. One way to break in brand new knee replacements, do not own new cars. Thanks for the video, hope mine goes smoothly...usually doesn't. SOmething is always rusted in place.
Very good vid, you remind of me,stake the nut like Prime Rib
great video. is there any need for grease on any parts or does hub come ready to install. also loctite on bolts or is it worth putting antiseize on? thanks
Thanks for a very helpful/informative video, ready to do our 2007 Subaru outback
Good insight into what I'm in store for on my girls Subaru, done LOTS of Gm front and rear hubs (too many) but needed a peek before getting out the chop-sticks and tearing into the rice burner. So glad its a bolt in style and not that mess I saw on the other Subaru pressed in :( it looked very unpleasant. Only thing I might have mentioned is resist the temptation to "impact" the axle nut tight, only hand torque to spec.
Could the "free play" you referenced, also create a clicking sound that almost sounds like a bad strut. I have such a problem with my 2011 and inspected all the visible components and wonder if it's the bearing. Yes, I've lifted the wheel off the ground and turned it side to side and up and down and there doesn't seem to be much play. I'm stumped.
Real easy, when it's not rusted.
Hey man great video, you taught me a few things. I just bought a 2011 subaru sti. I want to change one of the studs, but I can't seem to get the plate off. There's a bolt in the middle just like the car you are working on, but I noticed you bypassed the bolt and just pulled it off, in my case that doesn't work, does the bolt have to be released to take off the plate? Thanks
Which impact air hammer is that? Looks like an IR one? Are you using a punch bit?
Lmfao! At 4:5 in he Tells you to hold brakes down, meanwhile he already took the brakes off
At the point where you take out the four bolts the wheel bearing comes loose. I'm stucked there. Mine is not coming out. The cv axel is loose. Any advice.
How much would you have to pay for this job at a shop for both sides?
that part at 6:20 where it just pops loose..... it took me 3 hours and LOTS of hammering and slide pulling to get that hub free.
Did you try putting the jack onto the old hub with the 4 bolts loose a little and then put the car weight onto it, then hit it with a hammer a bit?
The benefits of the airhammer
Tks. The kind of vidéo that helps lots. Just watch not to take to Many angle shots of your shoulder.
I use a big C clamp to hold the dust shield and the hub into position.
Great video, thanks for your time and effort.
John
Is this the same thing you would do on a 2005 Subaru legacy? or would the process be different?
I watched your rear hub video and it was very helpful, I'm about to do my front with this video but I don't understand what you mean about flat spots on the caliper. this will be my first front job, can you explain a little more about the flat spot , thanks
The inner sleeve of the caliper slide has a nut on it, that the caliper slide bolts thread into.
That slide nut has flat spots on it that match up to raised flat spots on the caliper where the "nut" jams against it. Once the nut is seated against the caliper, and the flat spots are matched up, the nut should be right flush tight against the caliper, and also the two flats will be mated flat-to-flat.
This prevents the caliper slide "nut" from turning while the caliper slide bolt is tightened.
Stay gold.
Did you but any anti seize on the new wheel baring and the knuckle? i didn't see any step in this video for that. Thanks. Good video. Going to do this once i get a torque wrench.
Christopher Perez the hub assembly and bearings generally come greased
Doing mine pretty soon thank you !
Thank you for your good video and instruction .
I didn't see you use a torque wrench on any fasteners that required specific torque settings which is a HUGE problem.
@ 8:20
what did you put in there to make it look lubed?
Awfully convenient that the hub just falls off after taking those 4 bolts off lol. Doing this on my car right now and that hub is rusted solid to the axle housing. :(
charged I understand, yep get fairly lucky around here, but being from the midwest, and working on rust buckets there, I remember fighting things. feel your pain.
Fixing cars and stuff Sometimes you get a minimal tolerance part and a maximum tolerance spindle then they slide right off just like yours did. Most of the time it's a 40oz. hammer some cold chisels and about half hour of beating to get them off here in the northeast where road salt is king
Yep, exactly ... and I'm about to do another one.
Did mine today. Air hammer and slide hammer were useless. Rusted solid and I live in Seattle so the only salt it had seen was driving down the beach at the coast a few times. I ended up taking the whole knuckle off and using a press to get the bearing out. Just use a paint pen to mark the cam bolt for alignment. Word to the wise.
I couldnt even get the bolts out, but I live in Canada where salt is at the top of the food chain....
Is this same procedure or similar to a 08-14 wrx
Hey Todd! Do the bearing hub assemblies come pre-pressed? I know that on an older outback (2nd gen/2003) You have to press something. Is that still the case? Or is this just a simple swap job??
I do not know for that specific year, it just depends on the year and model. I would just check on Amazon or your favorite online parts store and input your info and see what pops up and hope that you're lucky and it is a complete assembly. If not you could always take off the steering knuckle and bring it to a machine shop to do the dirty work for you.
I have 2008 legacy..i take out the 4 14mm bolts,push the axle and the hub still hard to take out..any solution?
love how he torques the assembly's into place two ughs for the brake bracket and a grunt umph and two ughs for the strut to spindle bolts Real precision re assembly here Time for lunch Billy Joe bob
Hey there Mr know it all... where is your youtube video?
That is very helpful. Thanks!
+Andrew Nelson Trying it with out the aid of air impacts.
Thank you very much for the very informative video
this is the way to do it!
exactky what I needed!
thanks it was very good
Much easier way to replace the hub assembly ‼️
what tool you used to push out the axle from the hub?
loooks for ez where state doesnt get snow and salt. N.E states will take 2 days to break that wheel hub off :(
Did you have to disconnect the ball joint or anything else before removing/replacing the hub assembly?
Doesn't look like i did have to.
Thank you for sharing!
Does this work on a 2006 outback 2.5 XT limited, 5mt as well?
When you stake the nut, is this a new nut for each hub bearing assembly? the old nut? or a new nut that comes separately from the assembly?
+jackobthesnakob.. you can use the old nut, the dent that was made initially should line back up with the notch on the new spindle, just re-fix it in the notch as shown, new spindle nuts run around $5 each. You may have to push the dent in the top of the nut back more to re-thread it on the new spindle
Very good information. No need to press out the bearing?
I'm wondering the same thing. I have an older outback, and the bearing hub assembly for it required some stuff to be pressed. Are these just swap jobs? No pressing required?
These are an all in one setup, super convenient but much more expensive than just a bearing.
I'm prittie sure they do make a puller slide hammer you can rent from autozone incase you find the hub is mechanically welded.
Brick or Masons chisel. Hammer it in there.
www.homedepot.com/p/Mayhew-3-1-2-in-Guardian-Handguard-Brick-Chisel-35105/100197166
Stay gold.
I rented one to do a Ford Explo, and the hub piece was waaaay too big for the Subie hub. It was a tight fit on the Explo. Maybe the kit we rented was missing pieces, but I've seen others with that complaint as well.
Could I use a brass drift to hammer the shaft back from the bearing? I dont have an air hammer.
He said you could put the nut back on and hammer away.
great video todd thanks btw was the final shot of rotor a rear rotor shot ?
Yes it was.
Why did you stop explaining what you were doing at about the 7:00 minute mark? Your verbal explanation is equallyt as important as the visual, to me. Otherwise, a very good video.
do you have to use a new axel nut? My Ford was torque to yield or what ever. Not sure about my Subaru.
John Resciniti you can reuse the axle nut on Subarus
Kinda cool how we started on a 2007 legacy and ended on a 73 Ice Cream Truck
Useful video thanks!
Todd: At 17:00, you do something to the hub nut. “Stake the nut?” What and why? Thanks for the great video. -Chris
A hammer and punch to indent the metal so the nut doesn't come off. Usually done when there isn't a cotter pin.
Would this work for a 08 Subaru impreza
2011 Outback? 🤔 Needs replacing... my 2008 Impreza with over 200K now needs new wheel bearing hub assembly.
I wonder why yours needed replacing only after 8 years. 🤔🤔🤔
What was that tool you used there @ 5:20?
+Gwazymodo
Air hammer.
I’d wear safety glasses FYI 🙂
This would also work for the older legacy cars as well...
What brand wheel bearing was this?
1 1/4 in socket.. What size in mm for that hub nut???
1.0" = 2.54cm (conversion) i.e.1.25" *0.254 mm = 0.3175 mm = 32mm socket / wrenchNice Video-all steps covered well!-TY
Man, I hope mine only takes about 20 mins too when I attempt it this week:)
Whats the name of the tool used to push out the axle? Thanks
+jbascomb1
air hammer - but you can just use a regular large gear puller to push out the axle shaft from the hub
good job man
no need to move the ABS or speed sensor?
If you're careful, it can stay put. However, to be safe, I've always removed mine. It's a 10mm bolt, and then a small-medium flat screw driver to gently pry the sensor out of its housing. The only time I would let it be is if it looks like the head of the bolt holding your ABS sensor is rounding off and the bolt is twisting out...then I'd leave it and be very careful working around it.
Would it be the same for 2002 wrx ?
no
How did you know that the hub needed to be replaced
Question I am a woman, alone by the way and my Subaru Outback 2008 needs this and my mechanic are asking me 504 dollars for the job, would be posible do it by myself, how much would be cost to me? Should I take it to the mechanic?
How many of the tools used do you have, how much do you want to spend to buy the tools to do the job? I know it is a lot of money. what if you run into other problems and you can't put it back together, then you are without your car. How much mechanical experience do you have? Some things to think about. I would generally let someone else do it.
I took mine to pep boys and they wanted to charge me 425.00 dollars, just wanted to compare prices with my mechanic, my mechanic did it for 235. 00, plus pep boys was trying to add other thins that i needed change which was nonsense they wanted to charge me for everything 1500. 00 dollars , do your research with other mechanics
We’re in 2018 it doesn’t matter if your a woman.
@@Bigshows93 you can believe that all you want while you are hemorrhaging your hard earned money away. Good luck
Kinda looks like the cv didn't go back in straight.
where can I get one of those shield
rallysportdirect.com
Torque Specs?!?!
Scott Goldsworthy he says the axel nut torque. 162ftlbs
That wasn,t a good video,,,it was a great how to video!
fixed.
I think you would have better luck if you put the car up on a lift!
Like!
Don’t hit it in it should go in Easier than that
Where is the eye safety?