How To Fix Gaps Between Baseboard And Floor For Perfect Fit! DIY Step By Step Tutorial For Beginners
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
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On This episode I'll be showing you how to fix gaps between baseboard and floor for perfect fit! This is an easy DIY step by step tutorial perfect for beginners! Finally a video on UA-cam that fully explains on how to flush your baseboard with your bowed flooring. No more eyesore gaps between your baseboard and vinyl plank (LVP), laminate or engineered wood flooring! Just follow my easy step by step instructions and you'll get your floors looking like a professional install!
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#baseboards #crownmoulding #Trim
As a licensed (21+ year) Remodeling Contractor, we (Contractor and Homeowner together as a team) always have a choice between ascetics (that is paramount! - at least in my opinion) and level/plumb/square/etc. Multiple times in my career have I found instances where a SINGLE room has a level difference of 3/4" or more. One time was a bit over 1 1/4" in a kitchen alone. Level is much different than Flat. Once you start cutting 1/2" or more off of baseboard, trim, etc. it starts looking dramatically different (the more detail on the trim makes it even worse) and it looks like someone made a mistake. It has a major tendency to compound the change in appearance as it goes around a room if the level is off in the slab/flooring. If you only go for LEVEL, you can (and probably will) make the overall project look like it was done it was done by amateurs. That is where I communicate with the Owner to see what their wishes are for the final end result. It should be the Owners decision on how far to take this process (level vs. flat) and what they are willing to live with...it is their home.
Where exactly did you get this remodeling “license”?
Trying to troll me? CSLB (California State licensing Board) as a General Contractor since 2000 and now also a licensed Residential Contractor in Florida through FDPR (Florida Department of Business and Professional Regulation). I said “remodeling” because that is my specialty and because there is almost no new construction in California because of lack of land available to build on. One of the many reasons why I move to Florida.
Moved to Florida. Stupid autocorrect!
Was looking for a comment about him making it level. I thought why even try to make it level. If your floor isn't level, why should the baseboard be, at the cost of removing actual height.
How did you butcher the word ‘aesthetics’ so ridiculously
For small gaps like this when I install, especially with MDF I push it down to the floor, it’s flexible. Even with wood sometimes you can lay a 1x or 2x from the floor to the top of base at 90 degrees, put your knee on it to push it down and nail it. With a vinyl or floating floor a little gap is good for floor movement. The thing is also no one wants to pay you to spend 15 minutes on 4’ of base, unless it’s a multi piece design.
Exactly.
Bingo
That's what I was wondering. Just push down on the baseboard and nail it.
I definitely wouldn't have this guy work for me. Seems like a beginner .
yep
Pro tip never pound the nails out of the trim because it can make a larger hole to fix. Always pull the nails through.
I said the same thing when he started hitting it!
Thanks for the tip! No matter what size hole it will get covered with wood filler either way, unless you don’t cover the holes?
Covering all those extra holes is 'unnecessary roughness' to be sure haha. No reason to create more work. Grab your handy side cutters, gently pinch the bas of the nails (from the back) and roll them out. The less damage to the finished surface the better 🍻
@@FixThisHouse On older wooden trim there was always a strong possibility of ripping out chunks of fibers that had swelled over the edge of the finish nails over time. It made the filling process harder and if you were only staining the trim rather than filling and painting, the trim was ruined because you would see everywhere the wood was filled.
Can you use caulking instead to fill that gap?
I run into this problem every day as a professional painter. Many of your critics say caulking the gap is the best solution. If so, who's job is it to caulk the gap? Is it the framer's, finish carpenter's, floor installers? The aforementioned trades are long gone more often than not leaving the homeowner and painter shaking their heads as they look at the gaps. Caulking the gap is not a good idea because floors move, houses shift, and the temperature of the house will change with the seasons. After time, the caulking will delaminate, change color, and dust will stick like a magnet. This video is very educating for homeowners, all trades, project managers, inspectors, architects and the like. Thanks for posting it.
We could all solve this problem if we professionals stand together and insist that shoe be installed, and that's exactly what its for. Flooring manufacturer standards say no less than ¼ inch gap, larger for hard wood, and larger for larger rooms, that ⅜ thick base would never cover, so they force us, the ones they hold accountable, to cheat and hold our breath that the call back don't come. Pass the buck, screw the guy behind you, after all, we are all uneducated criminals!
Caulk would be easiest and fastest !
@@rudytrujillo2238 ¼ round/baseshoe would be the correct way, but for whatever reason, clients are told the truth as to why it is so important and its purpose. Not to mention, it's an added piece of trim, more profile. If they would stop cutting corners and tell clients the truth and insist on it being done right, things will never change. Customers don't know a damn thing, expect what they "think" they know. As a professional, I've never had a client say, let's do my flooring wrong, so I can save on some shoe that I as a customer think looks bad. Show them what caulk looks like in short order. Problem solved!
Clients, are not told the truth.
@@VoteBLUE2024toSAVEDEMOCRACY I agree that would be the correct way but if the gaps isn’t that big like in this video caulk wouldn’t look bad at all if done right. All I said was easiest and fastest
I respect your attention to detail. And your commitment, curiosity, courage to set out on the journey to get to a better fit. In the end, we will all have to decide which approach to use based on our time restrictions, tools at hand, nagging from significant other or paying client.
If the gap is so noticeable that you have to scribe such that the adjoining baseboards suffer significant height difference the you can cut all your adjoining baseboards to the lowe height. Easy to do with wide flat stock and not too noticeable, especially if you don’t have to re-radius the bottom edge with true square edge flat stock. However if the gap in question is truly that bad it should have been seen before you place your flooring. I’ll typically use Ardex Finish and blend the subfloor a bit more parallel. I do often have to shim under the floating floors I lay down as it’s easy to miss on a big install. I use the gap to get a tool in and lift the plank and bend a piece of plastic to shim under. As the offence is near the wall it typically doesn’t affect the joint between planks as long as it’s not too much of a shim thickness - which will void the floor warranty too. Filling with caulking can be done very neatly but suffers eventually from poor ascetics with floating floor movement. So basically I’ve done all methods and they all hav the disadvantages save for fastidious prepping beforehand. On long runs with 3 1/4” base it’s easy to flex down on the gap and shoot a few brads. New homes with engineered floor joists are typically easy peasy flat and level. Older home, homes with long joists and no blocking, not so much. One house I went through $1000 in filler and multiple sheets of bulk luan ply filler in the joint valleys. Customers aren’t willing to pay for that kind of prep if it’s client based work. For the diy crowd, it’s just your time mostly. The newer, stiff SPC LVP, I find, is much more fussy to lay flat with even baseboard gaps of subfloors that have settled.
Much better and great attention to detail. As a new home owner, I'm starting to notice every little imperfection in the home I live in now. lol. Not good for my OCD. Again, great video / tutorials you're providing for a DIYER.
First of I would like to say congratulations on the new home! 🙏🏽. Thank you for the love and support and stay tuned for more helpful videos 2-3 times a week! 👍🏽😊
This method works in many carpentry scenarios. I HIGHLY suggest against it for baseboard that connects to more baseboard. Especially wrapping corners. A scenario I have used this in a bunch is stair treads and risers. No connecting pieces and conforming to bows and bends.
Your attention to detail is refreshing. Most contractors today just slap in some filler and go. No one really wants to do things the right way. As long as it looks good for a few weeks....
Bayshoe or quarter round. Never change the height of your base boards. Old natural wood base often showed the settling of a house because it was not flexible. So we would add a second piece, quarter round or bayshoe. Modern mdf will bend, so just push it down! Also, paint your moldings before you install them! Much easier to touch up your finish nail holes than to cut in the entire board after installing.
25 years in construction and I’ve never heard of using a jigsaw to fix base. Calking and a wet rag always did the trick, but if you have a drastic gap 1/4 round would fix it easy.
You gonna quarter round your whole house because one small wall has a dip? lol That is ridiculous. Personally think quarter round looks shoddy, especially people who don't remove
baseboards before they install flooring.
Exactly! I don't claim to be a pro at trim, but i have been doing it long enough to know that this option is ridiculas. Push it down! I can do it with pine trim as well, but MDF is much easier. Never had an issue. I have done all type base and crown and one thing i do know if you trim one side (like video suggest) you will have other issues connecting adjoing base with different height levels.
I've been a carpenter for 43 years and this is quite possibly the most insane video I've ever seen, for too many reasons to list, but I'll mention a few. First, instead of jacking the base up with shims and playing stupid games with a compass, you could just mark it while it's on the wall by sliding an object over the floor with your pencil on top of it, marking the base along the way. So if your gap is the thickness of a quarter, then take a quarter and slide it across as you mark the base. THEN, remove the base and scribe it. But, having said that, then you've created a "chase your tail" situation where intersecting baseboards may be too tall or short as you move on. Base isn't meant to be scribed. It never was. This is why they make base shoe. It is especially designed to solve this problem. And if you can't live with shoe for some reason, then caulk is your next alternative. And I'll leave you with one other pro tip too: Anyone using a laser to cut anything for finish work has no clue what they're doing. There isn't a laser on this planet that delivers a thin enough line to accurately make a precision cut.
Just giving options for the everyday DIYer 👍🏽😊
Easier to just install shoe molding. That’s what it’s for. Then you don’t have to worry about mating up with adjoining base mold and having to trim every piece in the room. If you don’t like shoe molding, then purchase the wider base mold for the problem area walls and use this method.
First time learning of shoe molding other than qtr round. I hate that stuff. Many more options I'm liking now.
I bought vinyl baseboard for bathroom and have no desire for shoe molding. I have a gap between LVP floor and bottom of molding in couple places after Pro install of flooring and baseboard. No way would it work to shorten baseboard or insert shim. Bathroom has multiple corners everywhere. Simple caulk best solution.
they crappy way to do it
I agree. This is fine for a couple of spots but if your entire house or apartment doesn’t have leveled floors I can’t imagine doing this for every baseboard. You could just going to take very long time. Cover with trim or caulking is much easier.
@@acz88 Caulking there would look worse than a gap there.
I just had this issue with my daughters house she was selling and caulk worked just fine!
You're perfectionist and that greatly appreciated as a consumer. It would be very time-consuming to this, but if the person is willing to pay for that extra time, this seems like the way to go!
I always tape up the floor when painting skirtings (baseboards). I put the tape 1mm back away from the skirting and gap fill it. Then after painting and peeling the tape, it creates a nice straight line from skirting to the floor.
Thank you for sharing your technique 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
Great advice, just used this scribing method on a 10’ wall with an upwards bow up to 3/4” tall in the middle. With an upwards bow you just put the shims on the far ends but it worked out basically the same, perfect fit.
No luck with using a level though, the corners aren’t level :)
Instead of a compass, put the pencil tip in the hole of a washer and roll it across the floor. And no need to make it level, your eye will never notice 1/4 of an inch slope.
Q: Why don't you simply use caulking to fill the gap? Because the baseboard molding needs to be at the same height as the adjoining boards.
I totally agree. In UK we call the baseboard the skirting board.
Anyway, you are supposed to leave about a 3mm gap between the skirting board and finished flooring to allow the floor to expand and contract with room temperature.
I then use a flexible caulk to close the 3mm gap.
@@chrisperrins8082 *baseboard
What about as a renter in an apartment? We are currently at war with some roaches and they hide in those cracks. Would using caulk be an acceptable solution in this situation? Landlord isn’t gonna take the time to fix them anyway
@@gjhslibraryrocks try advion roach bait killer. Works very well.
@@gjhslibraryrocks call pest control - bill to landlord
I had exactly this problem when placing new skirtings in my old rickety house.
However I chose not to go this way because it works fine when doing it on just one wall but the adjoining wall(s) should have to start off lower by the amount taken off the ends in this case, so that the corners lighn up. Then you end up chasing your tail all around the room (and my room has 28 corner joints in it).
I elected to use shoe molding to cover the gaps.
Thank you exactly! 1 piece wall to wall is easy! Personally I don't think he's a professional.
@@randallhart7264 I don't think you should be commenting on topics that are beyond your level of comprehension, you're welcome!
This video is a brief tutorial to show the proper method of installing baseboard, it is standard in high-end finish carpentry. No one needs to chase any tails, you simply need to go about any task in a professional manner, and in this case it starts with finding the low point in floor adjacent to the walls being covered with baseboard, compare that with the highest point, the difference is the amount that will be scribed onto the bottom of the basebord when all pieces are level from the high point. Your standard for your rickety house is not what anyone else would be interested in knowing.
@@larrydaniels8976
Here's the thing. I'm not a professional and I assume that this clip is aimed at DIY people as I would hope that professionals don't need to be watching this.
@@larrydaniels8976 I never have commented on subjects I know nothing about! But I damn sure know about this subject! Now you have a wonderful day
In a situation like this, after a test fit, I mark the low point of the floor board (while baseboard is not installed yet). With the floor board a quarter inch gap from the wall, I raise the low point of the floor by inserting plastic strips wedge to raise the floor low point. Its however a lot easier when the floor board is running parallel to the wall as I can pry the floor board higher to insert longer cut out plastic strips to reach the second board. This solution is also in response to PogChamp query. Thanks for the video its nice to learn more option.
Thank you so much for sharing your technique and advice! I’m so glad you understood my thinking on this that this is just another option, including your technique, other than caulk and quarter round or shoe 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
@@FixThisHouse qtr round always gives a much richer finish, i just say'n
The real trick is when you have to cut a 45 to continue the baseboard on an adjacent wall. Like for a square room, the error for one wall will continue to all 4 walls. Sometimes caulking or a round-over trim piece works better.
also much easier, half round!! looks great as well!
IMO, the best fix for this is installing either shoe molding or 1/4 round. Also in IMO, shoe or 1/4 round look much better that just base alone.
‘Also in IMO’ 😂
Quarter round and caulking
That works too 👍🏽 only thing is that you will have to use that do to match the whole room and could get pricey 🙏🏽
Exactly, a lot quicker and gives a finished look!
@@FixThisHouse ¾ " quarter round is about $7 for an 8 ft piece....$30 will do an entire room... remember, if this is your home, don't be tight. I would never take the extra time to do what you are doing. Doesn't make good economical sense. You can lay quarter round in a room in about 20 minutes..
@@abdal-haqq1688 It is somewhat subjective, but the shorter the baseboard the worse quarter round looks. My house has 3/4" quarter round installed on 3/-1/4" baseboard and I hate it.
@@georgebush6002 that's a really specialized size of baseboard. Sounds like window and door casing.
When pulling out the nails i would use a channel lock pliers and pull out from the back less chance of destroying the face of the molding
Thank you for the advice! 🙏🏽😊
When I pull baseboard moldings or door trim/casing off, I usually use my angle grinder with a thin metal cutoff wheel to cut nails off the back instead of hitting them back out to avoid covering up all the old nail holes and new ones when reinstalling trim.
Sir, you have the patience of Job. Amazing work!!
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
I usually add some heavy duty glue on the back and apply pressure and nail it. Problem fix. If you cut one board you have to cut all to have the same height especially in a square room otherwise it will look obvious. Great video thou thanks for sharing.
Very exquisite work but the problem with substracting material is that you will have to work on all sides of the room to match the one that had to be fixed. I am too lazy and would prefer a fix along the lines of ADDING material.
I was wondering if this is possible...
Just mark the floor at the 90 degree mark using a set square, tape along that line and fill the gap with CT1 make sure to use a 90 degree silicone shaping tool. CT1 is paintable..And Bam!, Robert's your fathers brother.
Good method. Although I prefer to use shoe molding. I just like how shoe molding adds more beauty to the baseboard in addition to hiding those gaps. Plus shoe molding installation takes less time than sanding the baseboard.
what's good about it if he goes 10 feet down the length the will be no more trim on one side .
The secret to avoiding having to go back and cut the rest of the baseboards to match the new lower height of a baseboard you had to scribe ond remove material from an end of the baseboard is to purchase a matching baseboard that is taller than the original. Then you can simply scribe it and adjust your cut to accommodate for the height of the original baseboard.
If your from the UK then your understand the expression!! Painters job!!!
That looks great but how do you match splices and corners when you don't relieve the other pieces?
I have done this technique when I built my house 15 years ago. However, I never understood the point of leveling.. Let's say you have a wall that is 20' long and for whatever reason one end is 1/2" lower then the other. If you make your baseboard level, you will be able to tell that the baseboard is 5" on one end and 5 1/2" on the other. If you just lay the board to follow the floor, nobody will be able to tell that one corner of the room is lower than the other. Even more visible on crown moldings.
Protip: remove trim nails from the back using pliers, pulling the head through the wood. This helps to prevent tearout around the nail hole that can occur when pulling the nails out from the face of the trim.
I use a hammer claw and bend to the side lol
awesome!!! I have to do this for a few rooms in our very old home. The previous owners put up trim molding with huge gaps, I was at a loss how to fix this.
Nice clean job and it looks good. i've done the same thing except i stacked carpenters pencils since i didn't have a scribe. If the gap is under 1/8" i'll caulk it. The trick to me is working with a taller baseboard so the height of the baseboard is less noticeable when making cuts. I've seen floors so out of wack that they had no choice but to use vinyl flooring so it can contour the bend, lol
Those clamps that come with the sander are to convert it into a bench sander.Notice the small holes in the top of the sander-turn it upside down,insert clamps into holes and then clamp to a flat surface,hey presto!
So glad I read the comments about using this method. For sure avoid if baseboard has adjoining pieces which is probably going to be most of the time. Otherwise its going to look like 💩💩💩 with your baseboards in mismatch height. Thank you comment section.
I think the baseboards would look best running parallel with the floor, and not necessarily level. Especially on a concrete floor that has settled unevenly because it could be 1 1/2 lower on one side, then the baseboard would be way too short, it would look awful. You are on the right track though, that is a great trick to make your cuts tight, and I use that in all kinds of places. If you are going to cut the bottom of the baseboards you would need to make sure that they will look even with the floor along the whole room, so leveling it is one method that could achieve that, if the floor is level enough... if it's not, you would need to make sure that the baseboard is following the average slope of the floor along that wall, so the baseboard doesn't get progressively smaller or larger from one end of the room to the other. Then use your method to cut off the bottom to conform to the floor.
This is NOT how you should fix that gap. Remove the baseboard. Start at one end reattaching it and hold it down tightly to the floor as you go across it. This guy is better at videos than finishing trim.
I agree to much time consumption..time is money
Good idea for extremely uneven floors, if all other options fail
I appreciate your demonstration on your method of contouring your baseboard, my only question I have is how would that transfer throughout the entirety of the installation of the base boards. Would it be that my pitch on one end is slanted or higher than my adjacent end of the boards?
In my opinion as a retired carpenter, I do not believe this is a way to fix baseboard to a wavy floor. As others have noted, now that you "shortened" both ends, adjoining boards will no longer line up and therefore all the baseboards in that room will have to be modified. Also, others have noted, if the gap is small, simply push down on the BB before nailing. If the gap is 1/4" as you state, then you have a serious issue that needs to be addressed with the floor --or-- use quarter round as someone else has noted. And again as another person noted -- never pull the nails out from the surface as damage may occur. Pull it from the back side. Respect your attention to detail. I'm just an old fart making some constructive criticism. Keep up the good videos.
Where have you been earlier? Such a good solution, but my husband will kill me, if I ask him to remake everything 🙂
Hi Zanna! Thanks for the love and support! This method is is for certain situations only for example if your dip is the middle and tapers off on the edges. Just like any other tool, I provide different techniques (tools) for different situations 👍🏽😊
i actually learned something. Nice. Thanks.
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Pro tip...Quarter round....works every time...
That works too! Might cost a little more if you plan to do the whole room to match, but yes it that’s also another option for sure 🙏🏽👍🏽😊
And it always looks finished 👍🏻
Always shoe molding… Never quarter round… Quarter round is for overhead… Shoe molding is for on the floor
Qtr round is hideous
@@shyguy2481 only if it's installed incorrectly..
Now you get to sand all the rest of the baseboard to match the one you trim to fit perfectly to the floor, though it looks awesome.
as a finish carpenter to get paid once i complete the project learn how to do the job quickly and look professional no call backs. I use my foot step downwards on the board after tacking each end with one nail, start at the one corner and continue to the other end, it works
If you've got a floating floor, that small gap is good as it allows the floor to expand and contract. If you've got a floating floor, leave it. 👍🏻
Thanks for the feedback 👍🏽
In finish trim work you do'n't hammer or push the brad nail back thru the direction that it was installed from but pull it completely thru, otherwise you will blow out the top of the hole
After you cut the bottom of a piece of trim like that you need to seal it with some primer or it's going to soak up moisture the first chance it gets.
This guy is a handyman , not a carpenter. He needs to make that distinction clear
What happens when you then have a corner whether be an inside or an outside cut corner that meets up to that low end you cut on the left side? The trim running down the adjacent wall that meets that at the corner it’s gonna now be a quarter inch taller and now you’re gonna have an issue there.
I was just about to day that, that method only works if you don't have another baseboard meeting up to it
I was going to say the same thing! This won’t work if you have any corners. Just push the baseboard down, unless you are using oak or something it’s flexible enough.
It was a lot of effort that’s pretty much pointless because it’ll work in like 2% of cases
Your advice will likely leave every baseboard at an obviously different height when intersecting a corner. In addition, any previous caulk at the baseboard top will remain an unsightly reminder of the bad idea once its height is reduced. With texture on the wall, it will be impossible to cleanly rectify. The only real fix is a secondary trim (qtr round typically) mounted to the floor. Easier too.
I like your idea of the quarter round trim way more than this way. My first thought of this video is if you change your flooring again your baseboards are a weird shape. Not to mention the difficulty.
I just pushed spackle under the gaps, smoothed it out to look flat then painted over it. Can't even notice the gaps
Nice! That works too!
all that work for something people forget about. Great Idea but will create more work as you will find this problem through the whole house and adjoining bases as popchamp said
There are houses where you could spend a month tweaking each board. In such a case, do it the easy way... float the floors. (And maybe throw down some radiant heating plumbing while at it).
Flexible trim quarter round will do the job!
The professional will use a shoe moulding, rather than pulling off a base moulding and trying to either add at the bottom or scribe to the floor. Shoe moldings have been around fir centuries, are easy ti install and do not damage either baseboards or floors. They can be pre-painted or finished to match a trim stain or floor stain. They can be installed with either small finish nails or pneumatic brads.
I assume you're not using shoe or quarter round molding, however it is key if you're not spending time to level out dipped or high spots. I wouldn't advise this for baseboard.
I use the next size-up baseboard..... I cut the excess off with a circular saw. That way the baseboard is the size of the one that you bought, after you trim it!
Thank you for sharing! 🙏🏽
@@FixThisHouse 👌
I had this problem with my base. I just added some quarter round to the bottom and problem solved.
Dude.... Not gonna bullshit here but this single video could save billions of us DIY's. I honestly feel a lil stupid because I level everything. But for whatever reason I never felt about taking out the time in my work to level trim
Pro tip , table saw cuts staighter, but I usually skip the gap correction, cause i usually cant find My compass, but you did a nice job!
Thank you so much for your advice! 🙏🏽😊
You did a GREAT job explaining everything, I wish I could afford a super thanks, but, i'm sorry, money is dwindling thanks to you know who, LOL
If it's over a floating floor you need a slight gap. If not you'll pin the floor which will cause expansion issues and you'll have peaking end joins in the flooring.
I've heard of Peking Duck and Peking Tom's, but never Peking joints.
@@cynthiaayers7696 when a floating gets pinned down by something preventing it from expanding and contracting which it will do. An issue will occur where the head joins will bulge / peak and look unsightly. For skirting boards (base boards for Americans ) you should be able to slide a piece of paper underneath them without it getting stuck
@@michaelhucks2313 Also worth mentioning the large gaps being there are likely due to a subfloor that was likely not flat enough for a floating floor to begin with. Nearly every flooring manufacture calls for the subfloor to be flat within 3/16 of an inch in a 10 foot span. If this is done properly you will avoid an uneven gap under base
@@independentinstallations8419 Correct they generally have a tolerance of 3 ml over 2 metres. IMO all concrete floors should have a screed before any planks go down as they are almost ideal to the manufacturers specifications
@Leroy Jenkins wrong , SPC planks and laminate plank installation guides don't even permit the use of silicones , culk or L channels being liquid nailed for this reason. You'd void the manufacturers warranties
That’s fine if the both ends die against casings. Would you take that 1/4” off around a miter or scribe joint and down an adjacent wall? When would you stop? I’d bow most of the gap out and live with the rest. Someone suggested sanitary shoe molding under a rabbeted base. That would give you a fudge factor that seals the floor to wall junction loosing the gap up in the rabbet and no scribing. Always tear the nails out the back!
You do some nice careful work! I enjoy your videos.
Thank you so much for your love and support! Means a lot! 🙏🏽😊
Lovely job but surely when laminate floor swells it want have room to if skirting board is tight to it will buckle floor ??
Thanks for explaining why this happens.. this problem is so annoying
There are somethings that require compromise. A situation like this, with that gap size I may opt to compromise, depending on what the customer agrees to. More likely than not you'll find this throughout if it's found in one place. The amount of time required and cost associated with scribing may not be cost effective, nor result in a more aesthetically pleasing finish.
I am a first-time homebuyer and trying to DIY some stuff around my house to save money. I want to fix the gaps between my floor and baseboards - but the comments seem mixed. Is this a good and long term solution being shown? Any feedback or guidance is much appreciated
Flex trim to floor with hammer handle to close gap. Then nail.
It’s good to have a gap, it makes it easier to paint the skirting by slipping some polythene sheet in
Thank you for your feedback! 👍🏽
The gap is ugly, I always tape and gap fill it before painting, peel the tape off after for a nice straight line.
Man you took for ever to show that glad you didn't show use how to nail in a nail
Exactly 15 min. Video that could of been a short reel
Your likely to run into problems with the next piece lining up when turning a corner. I would push down on the baseboard really hard before nailing it in and you would be suprised how of a gap you can close. If its a 1/8 inch just caulk it in, scribling moulding is alot of work for sure, just run quarter round.
Thank you for the feedback 👍🏽
1) Shoe moulding, some customers don't like the look of it.
2) Caulking the bottom edge, big no no on floating floors. When the floor expands and contracts it will crack the caulk joint, learned that the hard way.
3) Just push it down and nail it, yes it works when the variances in the floor aren't that excessive but when they are it can A) Still not close the gap all the way and B) Return to where the material wants to be causing a gap. 2-1/4 base flexes easy but the larger bases are difficult to flex to a big gap and tend to spring back after nailing.
What this gentleman did is the way a true craftsman would address a wonky floor in the event a customer wanted base with no shoe minus the leveling of the base(parallel with floor will look much better as it won't taper from large to small if the floor isn't level). In all reality people shouldn't have to scribe base as most flooring products require tolerances of 1/4 inch in 8 ft or an 1/8 in 2 ft so the floor should be pretty damn flat when the flooring installers leave. But 99% of flooring installers are hacks and don't grind, screed or self level to achieve the flatness required by manufacturers for warranty. Unfortunately craftsmanship is pretty much dead outside of the custom home game and even there it's becoming less common.
Thanks my friend
You are most welcome! Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Fantastic channel. Thanks brother.
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
What happens if you are connecting another piece molding say on another wall or corner? It will be off.
Quarter round molding FTW.
What about when a baseboard you scribed meets another baseboard like at an outside corner. The baseboards would be different heights.
1:09 or just do what a lot of ppl do: Break out the Shoe or Quarter Round😉🤦🏼
Wish was kidding, but it’s what ppl do, b/c scribing everything takes time, and unless have a trim carpenter doing this work, a GC remodeling your house WILL NOT BE SCRIBING ANYTHING, or COPING, as an FYI. If they do, will be extensively extra costs, and YOU MUST NEGOTIATE AND TALK ABOUT THIS AT THE START, b/c a change order; won’t cut it for most GCs.
Thx for vid and good job. Appreciate and see ya on next✌🏻
Thank you so much for your feedback and advice 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Aepek, all hard surfaces installed in Ohio are to be sold with quarter round, for this reason we see here!! What he's doing would be very expensive per foot, and alot of these new material this can't even be done.
Love belt Sanders got to be careful though it's so easy to take to much off I use a stop.
Scribing is easy on one wall but when you have 4 walls and jut out bits around firehearths etc can be a pain in the backside!
We usually scribe for a hump in the floor, not a dip. Always buggers up when two pieces join.
However, I don’t know why you removed and shimmed up the baseboard with a level to mark it when you can just mark it when it’s in place. Also, if you use something closer to 1/2” to shim up the baseboard, you’ll find your compass marks better.
Yes that is a pefect way for cabinetry work or something that actually carrys something and needs to be level .. but in the contractor world this will not work just push down nail it and add caulking to the rest
Thank you for looking at the both sides of the coin. 👍🏽😊 you completely understand my channel 🙏🏽
So you're going to shorten then next board , and the one after that ?
All depends. This technique is best if the bow is on the middle area of baseboard and tapers to the edges. This technique is an “options” not suitable for everyone and just for these situations. If you do take off some off the edges then you will have to relieve other adjoining pieces. 👍🏽😊
How do you fix a gap between trim and the flooring? Quarter round
Just install quarter round molding.
That works too! 👍🏽😊
My problem is the floor has a bad slope and the stained wood door casings are not plumb or level. I'm not sure how to even start this project so the baseboards come out looking halfway decent. Your example is for an outside corner. How do you scribe the angles when you have a piece of baseboard that needs to fit between two door casings that are not plumb or level?
Please send me a picture of your issue and maybe I can make a video 🙏🏽. Here is my email: fixthishouse1@yahoo.com
Tip from a pro .. paint your skirting before you install it.. find a piece of timber & put it on the skirting where there is a gap, put your foot on the timber 3 x 11/2 is good … stand on it & push the skirting down, then nail .. or tap it down with a piece of timber after you nailed it. Very few pros have the time to do this.. 1 millimeter gap is acceptable of course no gap if the best, but that rarely happens on a big job.
Thank you for the pro tip! 👍🏽
Put a length of 4x2 on top of skirting stand on it and put a nail in job done 😀
Wow, that's a lot of work, what about just caulking the gap?
That works too, there are many ways to do this, just an option 👍🏽😊
Yea, now what happens when you connect to other baseboard on adjoining wall that is 3/8" higher. Will not line up or match. Scribing that you showed may not work - although a good thing to know for many projects!
That looks awesome. Great tips!
Thank you brother!
I have a very good carpenter know how to put baseboard first then cut very accurate length of end piece of hardwood flooring to install against baseboard. It looks beautiful without any gap showing.
There is never just one way of doing anything in carpentry. This is a good way. Thank you 👍🏻