Hello, thank you very much for the video. I've seen a lot of your repairs and I love them. This time I was repairing a 1229 that in theory is very similar and also with problems of having been mistreated by someone with little patience or interest in what he was doing. When I looked at which position you reset the main lever, I realized that the model I have has differences, at first glance it has another slot where the lifter is connected to. I immediately looked at another 1219 I've had for a few years and saw that it was the same as the 1229 I'm trying to get working. Searching the internet I discovered that there are two versions of the 1229 and now I realize that of the 1219 there are also two variants that correspond to the two of the 1229.
Very nice. I have one of these that I got off eBay probably 15 years ago, all original. The turntable spins but does need some work. I think Im just going to leave as is because it really looks great. Thanks for showing how the multi record holder works, much appreciated.
I was watching this, and when you start a record there is a little hesitation in moving across also. It's like the tone arm is still sticking on something as it should move smoothly... I will watch the list ten minutes to see how it goes now :) Dual's, especially working ones, from this era have a significant following, and yes the price is inflated. Especially on 1009, 1019, 1219 and 1229's, but even 1015's and 1209's go pretty high compared to what they are worth. People just think they are bullet proof and will never die.
You can buy E-clips at various places, McMaster-Carr's, Grainger's, even Home Depot. Search the internet. You can substitute a missing E-clip with a loop of bare wire in the slot with its ends twisted together. The E-clips are usually keeping an assembly from slipping down the shaft beyond the E-clip slot. The tightened wire loop is usually sufficient, and you can add a tight-fitting flat washer above it. Additionally, the arm movement must be smooth from home-rest to edge of record. The plastic dimple needs to be moved well by friction from the flat place on that control rod that rides the main cam. When new, there was proper friction and the arm always moved smoothly. That also can be the reason that the arm doesn't go all the way back at end-of-record play. The system worked well, and was used on many Dual TT's back then. I owned both a 1219 and a 1019 back in the day.
I have a 1237 with the same mech and the arm also doesn't quite go all the way back onto the rest at stop play. Any ideas how I can get that like-new proper friction back?
@@trippmoore If it uses a steuerpimpel, that is a probable cause. Also, make sure that the friction surface of the paddle that moves the arm via the 'pimpel' is absolutely clean. It won't work right,, unless it is.
The person who was in there before you was a real slob. I would never let that unit out of my house like that. I am prepping a 1219 right now as a gift for my guitar teacher. I was squeaky clean. It too, needed a steuerpimpel, as well as a good cleanout of old grease and a proper re-lube. The issue with mine right now is that after I transported it here from FL on the floor of my truck with the platter removed, it isn't dropping the record in auto mode, and it did before. I must have knocked something out of alignment. It'll come apart again so that I can find the issue.
I am not being paid to make it spotless. I make 30.00 to get these running and for that they get what they get. It they want it shiny like it is brand new they can pay the guy at the vintage shop 150 to do it. I am fixing stuff for eBay sellers and they want it don't cheap cheap cheap. They will polish it up to get top dollar from some sucker. They don't want to pay me for that because that cuts into their profit margin. Most of these units are received for very little from estate or garage sales. This one he paid 2.00 for paid me 30 bucks put a little elbow grease into it and done to paid him 450.00. I know because he bragged about how much he got and my response was "take your shit somewhere else"
I may get some dislikes for this but I don't like old turntable mechanisms. They fully depend on levers, springs, brackets etc. and they get corroded, wear out and even a slight deformation will cause the unit to dis/misfunction. Brilliant mechanical engineering, which I respect, but no sir...
I have a Dual 1237 that has the same issues with the tonearm coming to a rest when stopping. It just doesn't make it all the way back onto the rest, but it gets far enough back that it's propped up and the motor turns off. That little arm thingy ahead of the rest is a mystery to me. The manual doesn't say what it's for and mine broke off anyway. Now that I see how yours works I'm sure it doesn't affect the arm motion at all since mine actually seems to work better without it. What the hell is that thing?
When I saw that tone arm skate across the record, I thought oh no. P.S you might get a copyright claim on that "musical " accompaniment.... Intro reminds me of the Batman show.
How did you remove the top part from the wooden botton. There are 3 screws. I took them out but there are still some stuff underneath still seem to hold the top part.
Hi Dave, great vids and trouble shooting. Do you have any showing a Sony ps x7? Mine has intermittent strobe, repeat light and function not working and sometimes play function ends mid record. I'm in Toronto, can you recommend someone to service?
Quick question, my 1219 works perfectly, but the motor is hot to the touch after being off even for days. All of the automatic functions work great and it switches to off with a nice click when the record is done and the tone arm moves back home. Put a new steurpimple in a while back to get the arm moving again but no other issues. Going to unplug it for the time being… It gets hot enough to make the switches feel warm up top, but the heat is coming from the motor itself, like I said, hot to the touch. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance
Hi there Mr 12voltvids, Always enjoy your vids...... Just a suggestion about your camera mic. I read in the manual that it has 5.1 and 2 channel. Maybe it is set on 5.1 and that might be why it is going from right to left when you move around.... Just a guess....
i got a 1219 it always worked fine but now started to skate after few seconds of playing normally... i tried to calibrate the arm but wihtout success....any suggestions?
I have a 1218 it just keeps dropping on the record but then lifts up again and goes back to the rest then repeats all the time. I re balanced the tone arm and so far its working properly. I am wondering if I should rewire the mains lead as there is no earth so I am going to look into that next. Then all I need is a dust cover
Hi I have a Dual 1015 turntable that functions as far as starting and sets tonearm onto the record but the tonearm stops halfway through the record like it catches. If you lift the tone arm you have to move it back and forth by hand to release. I tried setting the record size to a 10" or 12" when playing a 7" 45 rpm using it manually but still stops.
Being this is a totally mechanical system it wouldn't be that hard to look underneath the base and see what it is hanging up on obviously it's sticking on something more than likely it's the end of record lever that pushes a cog in on the cam gear is stuck
i have record changer that skips with 78 and on some 45,s it skips a lot when one plays and on 33 at the stop grove skips just b4 lifting off the arm off the record if pushed at end grove the arm is lifted if not pushed it skips till i return the arm ???? any help
Any idea how to get your tone arm to balance on this if youve buggered up the gram adjustment ring, and need to reassemble it? any assistance is appreciated.
The gram adjuster is just a spring. Relatively easy to reset. Set to 0 and it should go back together. If no spring you can still Ballance by adjusting the weight. Just need a gram scale to set the correct Ballance.
Have you ever worked on a DVD player that is supposed to handle SACDs? I got a Sony that seems to recognize a SACD at first but then fails to bring up the menu that allows you to choose the disc layer.
Excellent repair, as usual. A while back you told us about an electronics supply company out west here in Canada. Could you give me their name again? I am starting my final semester in a college technology program, and parts for our final project are slow coming from China. Thanks again!
Unfortunately its not cuz you have to use the multi play spindle. My 1219 works perfect in the single play mode but the tone arm lifts in multi mode but doesn’t move over! 😭
Casio 3023 module. VW300 is the watch model Very rare.I have been looking for another one for the past 15 years and have never come across another one. It is solar powered and downloads the exact time from radio station WWVB every night. Has a green EL backlight to view in the dark. I have had it for about 20 years never changed the battery.
Not satisfying, a good improvement, but not an acceptable repair. The issues that persist are indicative of : 1) a dry and broken rubber dearing lift ring and bearings 2) A fine adjustment screw at the outside rear of the horseshoe shaped tone arm housing that adjusts a tone arm guide plate. It is black and the base plate passes through it. If it rubs in the slightest it will impeade the complete return travel of the tone arm. It can be very frustrating to resolve. Loosen the screw slightly, move in 0.5mm increments and retest. The screw has a plastic washer behind it and is a coarse threaded machine type screw.
Local vintage stereo shop is asking 500 bucks for a 1214. OK if someone is dumb enough to pay that for an idler drive record player, knock yourself out. I offer 20 bucks.
You did not fix this unit all the way . The liff of the arm mecanisum should push the arm all the way to the shut off position. Something is stopping that from happening.
In europe we called it ebay stuff 😂, 60% you buy there is because those so called hobbyist are messing up stuff till it's ruined and then sell for big bucks as is
You have said in previous videos that you do these videos exclusively for the money. I do not believe you. It appears to me that you get some satisfaction out of teaching others, like myself. Don't be a Grinch.
It is a teaching project yes. That is the idea, to give people ideas on how this stuff works so others can learn the trade. That is how I learned when I was young. Working with master technicians that made me think. Study theory and then make me do the work to figure out the problem. Of course u do it for the money though. Not that i need it, but it is an incentive.
And people like you judge people you know nothing about nor why they do the things they do. Comments like yours are judgmental and arrogant. Oh, and useless...
What else would it be if not a hobby? If you know of a job where I get paid to listen to whatever I want all day sign me up! Or maybe you mean it's supposed to be a religious experience? I'm confused.
@@trippmoore Im talking about the people who pay £100 for a stylus and have turntables made of granite, they care little about the music only the equipment, then they talk down to people who have cheaper equipment, people like that really piss me off.
Hello, thank you very much for the video. I've seen a lot of your repairs and I love them. This time I was repairing a 1229 that in theory is very similar and also with problems of having been mistreated by someone with little patience or interest in what he was doing. When I looked at which position you reset the main lever, I realized that the model I have has differences, at first glance it has another slot where the lifter is connected to. I immediately looked at another 1219 I've had for a few years and saw that it was the same as the 1229 I'm trying to get working. Searching the internet I discovered that there are two versions of the 1229 and now I realize that of the 1219 there are also two variants that correspond to the two of the 1229.
You are really good at what you do. I have a 1219 that I purchased in 72. You have shown me how to keep it alive.
Very nice. I have one of these that I got off eBay probably 15 years ago, all original. The turntable spins but does need some work. I think Im just going to leave as is because it really looks great. Thanks for showing how the multi record holder works, much appreciated.
I hope you get to do a part 2 where you get to sort this one out completely.
I was watching this, and when you start a record there is a little hesitation in moving across also. It's like the tone arm is still sticking on something as it should move smoothly...
I will watch the list ten minutes to see how it goes now :)
Dual's, especially working ones, from this era have a significant following, and yes the price is inflated. Especially on 1009, 1019, 1219 and 1229's, but even 1015's and 1209's go pretty high compared to what they are worth. People just think they are bullet proof and will never die.
Sometimes it helps to lock the tonearm on the rest, and run it through a couple of cycles. That sort of resets all of the mechanisms.
The tonearm on my Mitsubishi mc8000 was prone to jamming, but only when I played Bob Marley. Weird. Great vid as usual 👍🏻
Haha
I suspect when fixed it'll be a 'thing of the past', LOL.
@@plan7a 😄
You can buy E-clips at various places, McMaster-Carr's, Grainger's, even Home Depot. Search the internet.
You can substitute a missing E-clip with a loop of bare wire in the slot with its ends twisted together. The E-clips are usually keeping an assembly from slipping down the shaft beyond the E-clip slot. The tightened wire loop is usually sufficient, and you can add a tight-fitting flat washer above it.
Additionally, the arm movement must be smooth from home-rest to edge of record. The plastic dimple needs to be moved well by friction from the flat place on that control rod that rides the main cam. When new, there was proper friction and the arm always moved smoothly. That also can be the reason that the arm doesn't go all the way back at end-of-record play.
The system worked well, and was used on many Dual TT's back then. I owned both a 1219 and a 1019 back in the day.
I have a 1237 with the same mech and the arm also doesn't quite go all the way back onto the rest at stop play. Any ideas how I can get that like-new proper friction back?
Tractor Supply is a good source for E-Ring packs too, if you have one near you. That's where I got some for my TEAC X-1000-R.
@@trippmoore If it uses a steuerpimpel, that is a probable cause. Also, make sure that the friction surface of the paddle that moves the arm via the 'pimpel' is absolutely clean. It won't work right,, unless it is.
Oh my goodness, i had one of these, great turntable but had bad rumble problems. had a stanton 680e cartridge on it, sounded great.
Great turntable with rumble problem? Sounds crappy turntable to me then. No good turntable has any rumble problems.
The person who was in there before you was a real slob. I would never let that unit out of my house like that. I am prepping a 1219 right now as a gift for my guitar teacher. I was squeaky clean. It too, needed a steuerpimpel, as well as a good cleanout of old grease and a proper re-lube. The issue with mine right now is that after I transported it here from FL on the floor of my truck with the platter removed, it isn't dropping the record in auto mode, and it did before. I must have knocked something out of alignment. It'll come apart again so that I can find the issue.
I am not being paid to make it spotless. I make 30.00 to get these running and for that they get what they get. It they want it shiny like it is brand new they can pay the guy at the vintage shop 150 to do it. I am fixing stuff for eBay sellers and they want it don't cheap cheap cheap. They will polish it up to get top dollar from some sucker. They don't want to pay me for that because that cuts into their profit margin. Most of these units are received for very little from estate or garage sales. This one he paid 2.00 for paid me 30 bucks put a little elbow grease into it and done to paid him 450.00. I know because he bragged about how much he got and my response was "take your shit somewhere else"
Sir your sound is excellent mutch more natural than your other one stereo sound
This is in stereo, same microphone.
I may get some dislikes for this but I don't like old turntable mechanisms. They fully depend on levers, springs, brackets etc. and they get corroded, wear out and even a slight deformation will cause the unit to dis/misfunction. Brilliant mechanical engineering, which I respect, but no sir...
Hi! Keeping this for when my one will have problems. Thanks!
(Little typo in the vid title)
No typeo. Someone fuxed it up!
Love your cover of Hocus Pocus!
Thank you so much . U are a master dual man
You can summ the sound in mono and everybody is happy :-)
The linkage that turns off the switch is sticking, I bet. It has to have almost no resistance.
I have a Dual 1237 that has the same issues with the tonearm coming to a rest when stopping. It just doesn't make it all the way back onto the rest, but it gets far enough back that it's propped up and the motor turns off. That little arm thingy ahead of the rest is a mystery to me. The manual doesn't say what it's for and mine broke off anyway. Now that I see how yours works I'm sure it doesn't affect the arm motion at all since mine actually seems to work better without it. What the hell is that thing?
you get messages on your smartphone all of the time :) thx for your tutorial
Like when you posted this comment.
When I saw that tone arm skate across the record, I thought oh no. P.S you might get a copyright claim on that "musical " accompaniment.... Intro reminds me of the Batman show.
Great video and thanks for sharing. Is there a benefit to the linkage vs two solid mounts eliminating the linkage?
How did you remove the top part from the wooden botton. There are 3 screws. I took them out but there are still some stuff underneath still seem to hold the top part.
Hi Dave, great vids and trouble shooting. Do you have any showing a Sony ps x7? Mine has intermittent strobe, repeat light and function not working and sometimes play function ends mid record. I'm in Toronto, can you recommend someone to service?
Quick question, my 1219 works perfectly, but the motor is hot to the touch after being off even for days. All of the automatic functions work great and it switches to off with a nice click when the record is done and the tone arm moves back home. Put a new steurpimple in a while back to get the arm moving again but no other issues. Going to unplug it for the time being… It gets hot enough to make the switches feel warm up top, but the heat is coming from the motor itself, like I said, hot to the touch. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance
If it's hot when off then it really isn't off. Check your wiring.
Hi there Mr 12voltvids,
Always enjoy your vids......
Just a suggestion about your camera mic. I read in the manual that it has 5.1 and 2 channel.
Maybe it is set on 5.1 and that might be why it is going from right to left when you move around....
Just a guess....
i got a 1219 it always worked fine but now started to skate after few seconds of playing normally... i tried to calibrate the arm but wihtout success....any suggestions?
I have a 1218 it just keeps dropping on the record but then lifts up again and goes back to the rest then repeats all the time. I re balanced the tone arm and so far its working properly. I am wondering if I should rewire the mains lead as there is no earth so I am going to look into that next. Then all I need is a dust cover
Clean the dried grease off the control gear. Check the trigger catch on the top side of the gear.
Du musst den Struerpimpel ersetzen gegen ein neuen und dann sollte es klappen 😊
hello sir ... I have a problem with a wobbly tone arm, how do I fix it so that it returns to normal..thks
It looks like your manual cue lever is in the the up position. What would happen if that lever was in the down position?
Hi I have a Dual 1015 turntable that functions as far as starting and sets tonearm onto the record but the tonearm stops halfway through the record like it catches. If you lift the tone arm you have to move it back and forth by hand to release. I tried setting the record size to a 10" or 12" when playing a 7" 45 rpm using it manually but still stops.
Being this is a totally mechanical system it wouldn't be that hard to look underneath the base and see what it is hanging up on obviously it's sticking on something more than likely it's the end of record lever that pushes a cog in on the cam gear is stuck
i have record changer that skips with 78 and on some 45,s it skips a lot when one plays and on 33 at the stop grove skips just b4 lifting off the arm off the record if pushed at end grove the arm is lifted if not pushed it skips till i return the arm ???? any help
Any idea how to get your tone arm to balance on this if youve buggered up the gram adjustment ring, and need to reassemble it? any assistance is appreciated.
The gram adjuster is just a spring. Relatively easy to reset. Set to 0 and it should go back together. If no spring you can still Ballance by adjusting the weight. Just need a gram scale to set the correct Ballance.
Whats the sound in the background that sounds like a bottle cap dropping on the floor?
Duh it's a bottle cap dropping on the floor! It's a notifier on my phone every time someone sends me an email that's what it sounds like.
Have you ever worked on a DVD player that is supposed to handle SACDs? I got a Sony that seems to recognize a SACD at first but then fails to bring up the menu that allows you to choose the disc layer.
No never have even seen one or the disk.
the wheel is nearly round,just a bit flat at the bottom !!!
lol i love that intro! lots of mishaps 😂👍
All staged.
Excellent repair, as usual. A while back you told us about an electronics supply company out west here in Canada. Could you give me their name again? I am starting my final semester in a college technology program, and parts for our final project are slow coming from China. Thanks again!
Kpcomponents is one, Lee's electronics and rp electronics.
What would cause a humming sound during playback
Thats a simple one. It doesn't know the words!!!
Check the ground wire between the turntable and amplifier.
My tone arm raises but doesn’t move over in multiplay mode...any idea why? Thanks in advance!
Spoiler Alert: He gives you the answer in the video.
Unfortunately its not cuz you have to use the multi play spindle. My 1219 works perfect in the single play mode but the tone arm lifts in multi mode but doesn’t move over! 😭
Hello, May I ask the model of the watch you wear in the video, it looks very cool! ! Thanks---from Google Translate
Casio 3023 module. VW300 is the watch model Very rare.I have been looking for another one for the past 15 years and have never come across another one. It is solar powered and downloads the exact time from radio station WWVB every night. Has a green EL backlight to view in the dark. I have had it for about 20 years never changed the battery.
@@12voltvids Thank you, it seems you love it very much, it looks good after so many years！
I was hearing you on the wrong channels, but no matter. Don't think much of Dual decks anyway.
Where do you get parts like this ?
If you are talking the steurpimple I make them.
The word "Steuerpimpel" you have spoken nearly correctly. The "S" at the beginning you have to speak as an "sh" in english.
My great grandmother was German, she would have whppled my ass for not saying it correctly.
Not satisfying, a good improvement, but not an acceptable repair. The issues that persist are indicative of : 1) a dry and broken rubber dearing lift ring and bearings 2) A fine adjustment screw at the outside rear of the horseshoe shaped tone arm housing that adjusts a tone arm guide plate. It is black and the base plate passes through it. If it rubs in the slightest it will impeade the complete return travel of the tone arm. It can be very frustrating to resolve. Loosen the screw slightly, move in 0.5mm increments and retest. The screw has a plastic washer behind it and is a coarse threaded machine type screw.
I have a Goldring Lenco that falls in to the same category... It's OK but not worth the money they often fetch on Ebay.
Local vintage stereo shop is asking 500 bucks for a 1214. OK if someone is dumb enough to pay that for an idler drive record player, knock yourself out. I offer 20 bucks.
You did not fix this unit all the way . The liff of the arm mecanisum should push the arm all the way to the shut off position. Something is stopping that from happening.
In europe we called it ebay stuff 😂, 60% you buy there is because those so called hobbyist are messing up stuff till it's ruined and then sell for big bucks as is
I buy NOTHING from Ebay and I sell NOTHING on ebay.
You have said in previous videos that you do these videos exclusively for the money. I do not believe you. It appears to me that you get some satisfaction out of teaching others, like myself. Don't be a Grinch.
It is a teaching project yes. That is the idea, to give people ideas on how this stuff works so others can learn the trade. That is how I learned when I was young. Working with master technicians that made me think. Study theory and then make me do the work to figure out the problem. Of course u do it for the money though. Not that i need it, but it is an incentive.
When listening to music becomes a hobby its time to awknowledge you are doing it wrong. People like this listen to the equipment not the music.
And people like you judge people you know nothing about nor why they do the things they do. Comments like yours are judgmental and arrogant. Oh, and useless...
You shouldn't hear the equipment. If the equipment is adding anything to the music it ruins the experience the musician intended.
What else would it be if not a hobby? If you know of a job where I get paid to listen to whatever I want all day sign me up! Or maybe you mean it's supposed to be a religious experience? I'm confused.
@@trippmoore Im talking about the people who pay £100 for a stylus and have turntables made of granite, they care little about the music only the equipment, then they talk down to people who have cheaper equipment, people like that really piss me off.
@@Synthematix What about those of us that pay $120 for a stylus (the replacement for my V15 type IV cost about that much) and care about the music?