When I was a kid my dad had a toilet paper oil filter on his car. He never changed the oil, just the roll of toilet paper. He only added any oil when he would change out the toilet paper roll. He said that the little bit of oil that was added helped replenish what viscosity breakdown that may have occurred over time. He had used this filter on every car he had starting with the 1936 Ford he bought in 1940 and drove until the late '50's. He transferred the filter from car to car until the late 1970's when he let it go after single ply toilet paper was too hard to find. He said that the glues used in double ply was not healthy for the engine. I believe that his filter was a backyard mechanic hack from back in the day but i recall him saying that there was a company that started producing them in the '50's. My father was a research and developmental engineer for International Harvester. The guys my dad worked with would argue over who would get to buy my dad's old cars when it was time he bought new.
You nailed it. All the haters think they can read some science and know what they’re talking about. Nothing speaks, louder than personal experience like this.
@@dillansgarage I recently saw single ply toilet paper in the local discount department store and thought of my dad's filter. But my days of high mileage driving are over. It would have been nice to have when I was putting on 30k a year.
The way people dont need to drain the oil with these filters is additives last a lot longer in clean oil. New oil added at filter change replenishes the additives. Frantz knows this. They also know people will laugh if you tell them they dont need to drain oil. People have been fed oil change bs all their lives.
The Frantz has been around since 1953. In the 80s an old couple showed me their 53 Chevy they bought new and installed a Frantz on it. Better designed filters have come and gone. Motor Guard only makes compressed air filters now. I have several in use as well as the Gulf Coast junior. Another favorite is the Australian Jackmaster Classic. Ive heard they have been around since 1954. The name comes from making jacks. They have more expensive filters but the Jackmaster Classic works for me. Its best for tight places.
Frantz themselves doesn’t even claim this system prevents future oil changes. It helps increase oil life but don’t make click baity claims that you’ll never have to change the oil again.
@ my pops never changes his oil, and I don’t plan to. Regardless of what Franz claims a lot of people have been doing that for decades with still healthy vehicles. It’s not click bait it’s experience. I explain that in the video
@@dillansgarage That's nonsense... the additives in engine oil for the latest engines become exhausted over time and mileage, so the oil must be changed no matter how good the filter is.... the oil will also become oxidized over time as well, and will need to be changed.
Dont know how we got by in the 60s Frantz and Motor Guard didnt tell us what oil to use all we had was universal models. No fancy oil fill caps. They didnt tell us we needed acid neutralizers added. The owner of Frantz said keep the oil clean and dry and you dont have acid problems. We got by.
All it amounts to is using a filter that cleans oil. That would be a toilet paper filter or other depth filter such as compressed cotton. Toilet paper is economical. Also adding enough new makeup oil at filter changes to keep the oil as good as new. The advantage of the big paper towel filters is they have a lot of depth and take a lot of make up oil. There is no such thing as no more oil changes. No more oil drains is possible. Some call it changing the oil one quart at a time.
It makes people feel good draining the dirty oil and putting in new oil. The full flow filter is probably still clean but they change it too. In the 60s a lot of engines were so sludged up the toilet paper could be clogged in less than 50 miles. Told my uncle we will need to change the Frantz every 50 miles or open the engine and remove the sludge. He had also removed thermostat. Said they werent needed in California. He traded the 59 Ford in on a new 63 Dodge pickup. When I was putting the Frantz on the pickup his brother drove up. He said my Frantz is no good. My oil is dirty and my lifters are noisy. I asked him if he had changed the Frantz. He said change it? The guy I bought it from said it would last a lifetime.
With the Australian Jackmaster Classic I like to drill out the orifice and put the orifice at the inlet. Even better I drilled out the orifice and installed a Perma Cool universal 189 sandwich adapter. I have two Frantz 2 ports from the 60s. They arent universal. Dont fit anything I have. There are a lot of sandwich adapters now . Perma Cool is all I have used. Before the sandwiches I got metric to 1/8 adapters from McMaster Carr. Havent used a 1/8 inch pipe tap in a long time. I did a fleet of powerstrokes when the 6.0s first came out. The oil fill extension was plastic. Marked it before unscrewing it. Gulf Coast filters only had universals. Bolted the big filter to the frame. Told the specialist I needed a bunch of oil to fill the big filters. He brought me Walmart diesel rated 15 W 40.That was 20 years ago. Later they called saying they had more trucks. Told them to call Gulf Coast filters. I see one guy telling people you dont change oil with this filter. He had a picture of how he got pressure. It was the return port on the 7.3. He is a good guy but listens to sales people too much.
The threads on the Pontiac cap stuck to the toilet paper core. I removed the threads enough so I didnt have to pry it off. As far as filtering it doesnt matter. The filter has a angled bracket for bolting to a flat head Ford V8 head. I straightened it. The Scott is very strong. If the perforated plate is smaller than the Ford ID its ok. Part 3
I had a coolant tank cap off a 03 Pontiac Sun Fire. I was able to take it apart and make a big enough washer to bridge the space. Used a step drill to drill the plastic so it slides on the center tube. John Frantz used a steel washer with a piece of exhaust pipe welded to it with a seal . You wont need the exhaust pipe with the 1000 sheet. The lid spring and washer should push down against the big washer. Need a 1/16 inch orifice at the inlet. Or a oil cooler sandwich adapter. I am using a Motor Guard gasket on mine. They were designed for a flat gasket not sure I would trust the Motor Guard gasket in a car. On the tractor im looking down on the filter. The idea is for the oil to come in the top go down thru the Scott and out the bottom with no way for the oil to find a path around the Scott. For the Viva I used a perforated plate small enough that I could remove the spacer. The filter is low. Put a tubeless tire valve with a nut to push out the excess oil. Long nosed pliers to remove the used paper. ( PART 2)
John Frantz got his start in 1953 putting a Frantz canister inside the old optional equipment canister filters. The correct way is without the Frantz canister. That would have put him out of business. I was lucky to have a Flat head Ford V8 canister filter. They were optional equipment. There were differences. I can only explain how to convert mine. If the inlet is near the top like mine you can use it. Plug the outlet at the bottom and put a new outlet in near the old outlet. I used a self tapping hollow bolt. That bypasses the orifice in the center tube. These filters didnt drain below the orifice. You will need a perforated plate with a 1 inch spacer under it if you want to use the Scott 1000. The Ford is 4 1/2 Inch ID. I used a thread end of a full flow filter. Drilled and deburred extra holes. It gets more complicated at the top. You have to bridge the gap between the toilet paper core and the center tube. ( PART 1 )
Nice video. I’ve used TP filters for 25 years (Motor Guard and Gulf Coast). I’m now preferring Valvoline Restore and Protect. The 1000 sheet TP is still the best to use.
I normally use Great Value 1000 sheet from Walmart. We didnt have tightly wound 1 ply when Motor Guard came out in the 60s. We had high quality 2 ply. I would use the whole roll. Just before the halves came together I would push the paper in with my knife blade. I did a M 30 compressed air filter a little different for motor oil. I removed the plastic parts. Put a 2 1/2 inch OD by 1 1/4 ID washer in the bottom for a core seal. Reamed it a little so it would press on. The center tube isnt needed with the 1000 sheet. The origional lube oil filter filtered from the bottom up. A 2 inch OD flat washer was in the top. Correction The origional sealed inside the core. They required 1 1/2 inch core paper. The flat washer came later.
The owner of Gulf Coast filters passed away. His top salesman now ownes the company and discontinued the little filters. His thing is only heavy duty diesels and things like polishing aviation fuel and things like polishing Abrams tank fuel. Fuel gets bad in storage tanks or in equipment not being used enough but has to be ready to go.
The Australian Jackmaster Classic is a nice filter. They use what looks like 1000 in a sock. I drilled out the orifice on mine and used a Perma Cool universal 189 oil cooler adapter on mine. I bought several from Jegs years ago. Summit has them. There is a bunch of them now
That 1/8 inch tap brings back memories. McMaster Carr has adapters metric male to 1/8 pipe female. I took a big Gulf Coast filter and two small ones toFort Worth Texas for a big RV the generator and a Volvo. I had a 1/8 pipe tap I had used on older Volvos. This big Volvo had a oil pressure switch with straight threads and a gasket like a spark plug. The owner took me around Fort Worth until we found a adapter. I think it would have taken a Frantz Ford sandwich 2 port adapter. I had one at home but I was a long ways from home.
The Frantz 2 ports were a life saver on some cars. The oil flowing thru them created a pressure difference. A little bit more pressure in the oil line going to the Frantz than the return line. The Perma Cool 189 has a spring loaded bypass valve. It has bushings to fit most cars. You have to use a 3/4 16 thread filter. My diesel tractor uses a Motor Craft Fl 1A with a 189 sandwich and a Flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use a 4 1/2 inch Scott 1000. The Ford is 4 1/2 inch ID. John Frantz put a Frantz canister inside the Ford canister. I use only the Ford canister. I have half a roll of VIVA paper towels in it now. A lot of filter material in VIVA towels. When I was doing Gulf Coast filters the diesels used Bounty big roll paper towels. Dont know what they use now. They claim 99 percent at under 1 micron for the big one. 22 inches of depth.
If the pressure sensor is teed off, does that not mean that if the Frantz filter is clogged, the oil is just going to continue along its original path in the block, and not through the new filter due to taking the path of least resistance?
@@SparkBerry if the franz filter is clogged, everything will act as if its stock. If it’s not clogged then oil will continue to pass through the filter as intended, and cleaning the oil. What I can tell you from experience is that every time I change the filter, it’s dark and full of dirty oil remnants, and the oil in the vehicle is still clean.
Normally the bypass filters since the 1920s send a small stream of filtered oil to the oil pan. With my Perma Cool universal sandwich adapter the clean oil feeds into the inlet of the full flow filter. I still have a few Frantz 2 ports from the 60s. They depend on enough oil flow to create a pressure difference.
Its hard to clog the toilet paper filters in modern engines. I like to use Perma Cool universal 189 oil cooler sandwich adapters with my many toilet paper filters. Bought several from Jegs years ago. The filters are the same as a restricted oil cooler. The bypass valve keeps a good supply of oil going to the engine. For most gasoline and some small diesels. I think the 169 is for turbocharger lubrication. Check with Summit. Dont need an orifice. I have a few old Frantz 2 port sandwich adapters but they arent universal. Dont have anything they fit.
AMSOIL sells the modern bypass oil filter system; i think replacing the oil at 100k miles is the nominal recommendation; change the bypass at once per year and change the normal oil filter at 2X per year; so that is three oil filters per year. And a few qts of oil in addition to those three filters; so you can add the $ of that up and it may cost more than just changing your oil 2X per year including a filter, or very very close (and simple). But the bypass system is a 100 years old. you decide for your $$$$.
@@SmooveBee1 for me the cost of the Franz replacement filters is so cheap, plus the benefit of always having clean oil in your system is enough benefit
Most of us that have been using toilet paper filters for over 60 years started with a Frantz. I like the top loaders better because they are easier to service. I started in 1963 with a Frantz oil cleaner and Standard Delo 100 30W. It was 29 cents a quart in the discount stores. It was for diesel engines but my Rambler American did fine with it. Multi grades were no good in those days. Couldnt use them in a diesel. I changed the 2 ply and added a quart of Delo about every 2.000 miles. Didnt drain oil. Oil was normally a nasty mess in 2.000 miles with normal oil filters. Right now I have a Australian Jackmaster Classic on the Pontiac Torrent 3.4. I drilled out the orifice and installed a Perma Cool universal 189 sandwich adapter. Its for oil coolers but works the same for bypass filters. I normally change the Great Value 1000 from Walmart and add a quart of Walmart synthetic every 6000 miles. Since im retired now I will make adjustments. My diesel Ford tractor uses a flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use Scott 1000. A Perma Cool universal 189 sandwich and a Motor Craft FL1 A.. I have some Gulf Coast filters and Motor Guards in use.The Motor Guard on the old F 250 390 engine is over 50 years old. I am a filter guy.
I remember when Amsoil came out with the canister filters. They were far superior to the spin on filters. They had Bobby Unser saying this oil change is forever. They might have learned their lesson. People cant handle being told no more oil changes. Better to use less effective filters and say things like extends oil drain intervals. More people can handle that.
Actually your dad was right. I started in 1963 with a Frantz and.Standard Delo 100 30W. Delo came in 30W and 20W. You dont need special oil or additional additives. You dont need lab analysis.
The title is 100% clickbait. Can this extend the life of your oil? Almost certainly! But even THE VERY BEST synthetic oils have a lifespan, a long one, way way longer than you'd normally want to wait to change oil. In this case that lifespan claim on the jug actually matters. Why? Because the advertisment on the oil jug saying the oil will last 15k or 25k or some crazy shit, well thats talking about how long it takes for THE OIL ITSELF to break down and stop working right. In most standard oil systems, the oil will become full of contaminants, and general wear grime that will make it ineffective long before that oil breakdown mileage number. In the case of this special filter, all you're doing is, instead of changing your oil and filter every 3-5k like you'd normally do(if you cared about your car) you're now JUST changing the toilet paper each session, until you reach that stated oil breakdown point. Once you reach that point, you STILL need to change your oil! This filter is NOT a miracle worker. Saying that you'll "Never change your oil again!" is COMPLETE BOGUS! Can you use this to save yourself a TON of money in the long run? 100% absolutely! Is your oil now miraculously "forever oil" that you never change? NOT EVEN CLOSE! To even dare to suggest that it does, is downright disgusting and irresponsible. You should be ashamed of yourself!
You missed the part about full pao not breaking down. Also, haven’t changed the oil in my 1985 k20 in 15 years and it’s gotten nothing but standard oil and sometimes even dirty oil. Say what you want, but experience speaks for itself. I daily drove it for a long time and still drive it weekly.
@dillansgarage Your and your Dad's experience is not enough to make concrete and solid claims that you never have to change your oil ever again. Present data, research, experiments, studies and the like, AND THEN you can make such claims. You're stating your claims AS IF they are facts when you have not proven that they are. All you've done is given your and your father's subjective testimony in favor of the product. I don't give a FUCK about your "experience". The "experience" does NOT speak for itself. PROVE YOUR CLAIMS!!! Don't just base them solely on your own "experience". I stand by what I said. Making the claims you did, in the manner you did, without supporting it with anything other than your and your dad's subjective experience, is downright irresponsible and shameful.
I have never had any trouble finding a toilet paper filter expert. In the 60s I set up at flea markets. Also in the 80s. About every other person was an expert. Even the ones that have never seen one. Its a tough business. Motor Guard gave up on selling oil filters years ago. Gulf Coasts head salesman only does heavy duty diesels now. Mostly military and marine diesels. Also like aircraft and Abrams tank fuel. If they dont sell good he doesnt deal with them. Luckily I have some in use. The Australian Jackmaster Classic is just as good. There are other ones. I installed them on diesel trucks like paper towel filters bolted to the frame on Powerstrokes. I dont think the salesman installs them. He just takes orders. When I sold them TA truck stops serviced them.
Its called knowing enough to be dangerous. like me working on the wifes Pontiac Torrent head lights. After a few hours and a new head light switch released the parking brake and the lights came on.
@ my pops has been using them for decades. People argue about oil breakdown, but that doesn’t apply to full PAO and even if you still do regular oil changes, at least you know your oil is always clean in your engine. They’re very much legit.
No way you can prove anything to a oil change enthusiast. Show them a roll of high quality toilet paper. If they cant figure it out dont waste your time.
@@ralphwood8818 I'm not an oil change enthusiast lol. In my line of work, and in life, practice is implemented based on evidence. Anecdotes are not evidence. He mentioned the oil test that he was sending off for analysis, but did not show the results (or post an update for that matter). The whole video could have been filmed without mentioning the analysis, but since it was mentioned, we should get to see the results.
The Frantz is a terrible design but they will get the job done. Regular toilet paper doesn't fit the Frantz now. The only paper that fits the Frantz is the paper sold by Frantz. I wont use anything but regular toilet paper. I use many toilet paper filters. I like to push in a roll of Great Value 1000 sheet and put on the lid. The Scott 1000 is good but have to unroll more paper to make it fit. In the 60s we used high quality 2 ply. For awhile I got my best 2 ply from Office Depot by the case. Frantz isnt the only toilet paper filter but it is the best known. No you dont need a special oil. In the 60s I used Standard Delo 30W. All I use now is Walmart synthetic oil. A Australian Jackmaster Classic some Motor Guards and Gulf Coast filters. A flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use 4 1/2 inch Scott 1000. Actually the guy is right. Common sense tells you things can happen to make an oil change necessary. A leaky head gasket for example. Watch out for filter companies.that use toilet paper in a bag and say it is better than regular toilet paper. I dont remember any time in the 60s where had to use 1ply. We used 2 ply facial quality toilet paper. We didnt have Frantz paper or Scott 1000. We did fine
Influencers, influencers and shills everywhere!!! They need to put the "you" back in youtube. Virtually all content on this platform is an infomercial or a low-budget 'reality' show.
Probably should say no more oil drains. The reason some of us dont drain oil is additives last a lot longer in clean oil. The new oil added at filter changes replenishes the additives. For what it costs to have the oil analyzed I can change the toilet paper and add new oil. Its easy for me to tell if I need to change the filter more often. I normally dont drain oil. A leaky head gasket for example will turn the oil milky and the toilet paper will feel soggy. The same thing can happen with short trips in cold weather. I try not to start my car unless im going somewhere. Up north I drove about 70 miles a day for 7 years.
When I used the Frantz we didnt drain the oil unless we had a reason. We changed the toilet paper more often and added more makeup oil than we do now with fuel injection and modern oils. I dont remember John Frantz recommending we buy a Frantz and still drain the oil. We had things happen like leaky head gaskets. Ruptured fuel pump diaphrams. We had to keep an eye on the dipstick. Dillan pays attention to whats happening under the hood. That helps a lot. A guy came into my garage. His oil light comes on when he goes around a curve. There was just enough oil in the pan going straight. When he started around a curve the oil would go to one side of the pan and the oil pump would suck air. One guy said I got this red light thats been on a few days. It was the oil pressure light.
If you could eliminate all of the reasons for oil changes you could eliminate all oil changes. The biggest reason is poor filtration. Then you get into things like leaky head gaskets. Not operating at normal operating temperature long enough for the PCV to remove the condensation and unburned fuel. If you have a filter that cleans oil and you dont take care of it. Thats about it .
@@hanseich definitely do more reading about it. There’s a lot of misconceptions surrounding bypass filters. Franz won’t tell you that you’ll never change your oil again. But if you call and talk to them, they will tell you they have clients who have not needed to change their oil for years based on their analysis.
Probably shouldn't tell people no more oil changes. They have been told all their lives proper maintenance is allowing the oil to get dirty then draining it. Keeping the oil clean sounds like snake oil to them. Frantz knows this.
I have probably changed oil at least a dozen times since 1963. I dont need lab analysis to determine if I need an oil change. I know what good oil looks and feels like.
I was looking for a good Ford 8n tractor a couple of years ago. Found a ugly Japanese Ford diesel that seemed solid mechanically. The Texas sun had done a job on it. Didnt know what oil was in it. Changed the oil. A sticker on the engine said for hot weather use 30 weight. It was over 100 degrees and I needed to deepen a pond. All Walmart had was 30 weight off road diesel oil. Changed the oil again. In the fall when it got down to freezing pulled the dip stick. The oil was too thick to circulate. I could have ordered winter rated Standard Delo 30W. Instead I changed to 15W 40 Walmart diesel rated oil. So much for me not changing oil. It got a flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use Scott 1000. Fuel is a Motor Guard with Charmin Ultra Strong. 1000 sheet is too dense for gravity. Hydraulic system has a KN and a Motor Guard in parallel. The KN is so the fluid will have a place to go if the Motor Guard clogs up. Dont want to get blown off the tractor by hydraulic pressure. Got the pressure down with a orifice and needle valve. Hydraulic oil lubricates the 12 speed transmission. The power steering. The 3 point hitch and loader. To those that dont know the W means winter grade not weight.
What you are saying is the truth. People cant handle the truth. They think oil is supposed to get dirty and be changed. You are trying to get the trolls out from under the bridge.
I can't say Ive never changed the oil. My 93 Subaru Legacy had 116.000 miles on it when i bought it.i changed the oil at 225.000 miles because I wanted to go to synthetic 0il. It has 239.467 on it now. Met a lady with a 06 Pontiac Torrent she keeps insurance on as an extra car. I started driving it. Told her I was going to put toilet paper filters on the engine and transmission. She said toilet paper oil filters.Stay away from my Accord. She needs to show some respect. I think she is softening up. She wants a new car. She came home the other night with a head light out. She said that does it we need a new car.
The Pontiac Torrent has 70.000 on it since I put the toilet paper filters on the engine and transmission. No oil drains. 210.000 on it now. I wont live long enough to wear it out. Told my wife when the computer says its time to change the oil nothing is wrong with the oil. Im disagreeing with Honda. Then she tells me they dont recommend bypass filters at the oil change place.
When I met my second wife she had just got her 66 beetle out of the shop for a swallowed valve. They told her because the beetle had no oil filter she should come in for an oil change every 1500 miles. I told her I will install a Motor Guard and it will need no more oil changes. She said cool. The Motor Guard filtered from the bottom up. Had to tilt it so the big stuff wouldnt gravity back to the engine at shut down. Frantz recommended putting the Frantz upside down on the beetle.
I normally dont drain oil. If the oil gets milky or the toilet paper feels soggy I will see where the water is comming from fix it and change the oil. I normally drive enough at operating temperature for the PCV valve to do its job. When I buy a used car I might start with new oil. I was talking about a Peterbilt with a series 60 Detroit. The owner says it has almost no wear at 1 million miles with one oil change. It used Shell Rotella 15w 40 conventional oil and a 10 quart Gulf Coast bypass filter. Road King Magazine asked me for the truck owners phone number. They did an article. They said the new makeup oil added at filter change was equal to a full oil change every 40.000 miles. It can be misleading.
I was on UA-cam talking about my 84 Subaru with over 250.000 miles with no oil drains using a Frantz with a Frantz adapter that eliminated the full flow filter with Mobil 1 15w 50. A Caterpillar lab manager sent me a sample kit. He said the oil looks good for that many miles but suggested I change the Frantz every 6.000 miles instead of every 12.000 miles. I was driving about 12.000 miles a year and changing the Frantz about every 4 july. Been doing 6.000 since. He found some caramelization.
A kid at work came out of a restaurant to find his Chevy pickup gone. The police told him its probably half way to Mexico. I told him he could have the Subaru but both head gaskets are dripping oil. He just used a cheaper oil. It ran nice. At somewhere over 300.000 miles he went to Iraq. Never saw the car again.
My research started in 1963. I put a Frantz on my car. Later I did research on the Motor Guard the Australian Jackmaster Classic and the Gulf Coast. Not much I dont know about those filters. I have the flat head Ford V8 canister filter pretty much figured out. John Frantz put Frantz canisters in the Ford canisters. I use only the Ford canister. I am a filter guy.
@@olderolderman4603 that what my pops does. He puts dirty oil into his trucks and lets the filter clean it haha people can say what they want, but you can’t argue results.
My riding mowers have toilet paper filters. When I change the oil in the push mowers I let the used oil settle until I need a quart in the engines that have a toilet paper filter. The full flow filters are Ford car filters or sometimes Toyota.
I will be selling my 76 F250 and the 93 Subaru Legacy. I would leave the toilet paper filters on. Some people might think it has toilet paper filters on it. The engine and transmission are probably in good condition. More than likely it will be that engine and transmission is probably full of toilet paper. I do have to fix the Subaru. Getting hard to start when its cold. Im guessing but I think there is a senser near the temperature guage sensor that gives it a rich mixture when its cold. I put a fuel injector in the intake with a push button. Works great but probably not a good sales feature.
I normally wear a hard hat. I have been known to fall. My head hits the ground first. Dont need to put on clean cloths to go into town. People ask me if I have been at work. I say yes.
Clean oil will virtually stop engine wear. The conventional system of allowing the oil to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it is not keeping it clean.
I have heard a lot of ignorant statements. When I was working at Ford a guy said he didnt care if they outlawed cars he would ride a horse to work. If those filters eliminated oil changes they would sell them at the oil change places.
Apologies if you are offended but this does not correlate with any scientific information - plse prove me wrong and I will gladly inform my Institute of Higher Education that I will request that my Masters be withdrawn from the record
@@garysmith1090 I take personal experience over words. My 1985 k20 hasn’t had an oil change in 15 years and I drive it every week. The oil is always clean and I even pour dirty oil in it. Just top it off ever time I change the filter
In 1963 I was working in a full service Standard station. We checked everyones oil. It was sir looks like you could use an oil change. I told this guy I see you just changed your oil. He pointed to his Frantz and said use one of these and Standard Delo. You wont need to change the oil and your engine wont wear out. The manager said he was a Standard oil engineer. After work I found a Frantz dealer. The brochure had a picture of a Frantz with 2 knobs on top. I got the over center clamp model. Years later I saw a 2 knob model at an auction. I got it for 3 dollars. They werent very strong. I saw 6 Purolator toilet paper conversions on Ebay. Probably John Frantz models.John Frantz got his start in 1953 converting the old canister filters to use superior 2 ply toilet paper. John Frantz wanted a filter media better than anything else that was economical. Bad mistake. The toilet paper jokes and bull shit stories never end.I improved them for my own use.
It doesn't require a degree to understand that clean oil is better than dirty oil. The full flow filter isnt supposed to clean oil. Its to remove the engine damaging abrasives from the full flow of oil to the engine. You drain the oil or install a depth bypass filter to remove the smaller engine wearing abrasives and absorb the sludge. Not recommended by the oil change industry.
My Mazda diesel pickup came factory equipped with both a full flow filter and a bypass filter. To clean the oil I replaced the bypass filter with a Frantz. When I sold the Mazda I offered to put the Mazda bypass filter back on. He knew about Frantzs. The Mazda bypass filter mount is still on the shelf. It would make a good primary fuel filter if I drilled out the orifice.
Got into a debate on a Trawler forum in the 90s. I normally debate fools. This guy was a challenge. It got real when he said bring your wife down to Canaveral . I will take you on a tour and we can talk about filters. I called Gulf Coast filters and told Charlie Sims to send someone down to Canaveral that understands big engines. They were moving the shuttle then. Charlie Sims was a Frantz dealer before the Frantzs went out of production. He came out with a better toilet paper filter and big filters that used Bounty big roll paper towels. Dont know what they use now. The new owner said the 10 quart model is 99 percent at under 1 micron. Charlie Sims passed. His top salesman took over. The top salesman.dropped the little toilet paper filters. The Australian Jackmaster Classic is similar. A lot better design than Frantz. Im told NASA is a customer. One of my fleet customers needs more big filters. Im 84 and dont crawl under trucks any more than necessary.
In the 60s the Motor Guard oil filter of San Jose California was the best you could buy. They couldnt compete with the inferior but better known Frantz. They were the only ones safe to use for compressed air The M 30 is similar to the lube oil M 100. I started converting the M 30 to filter lube oil. I remove the plastic internal parts and put a 2 1/2 inch OD by 1 1/4 inch ID flat washer in the bottom for a core seal. Had to ream the ID so it would go on. With the shorter paper nothing is needed at the top. A center tube isnt needed with firm paper. Need a 1/16 inch orifice at the inlet. Motor Guard started putting stickers on the filters saying use only Motor Guard parts. I normally use Gates 3/8 transmission cooler hose and Ace hardware fittings. Im getting my old Subaru ready for the auction. It has converted Motor Guards on the engine and transmission..With the converted Motor Guards and the Australian Jackmaster Classic I push the TP down hard against the bottom and put on the top. When you start the engine the oil pressure keeps a downward pressure on the core seal.
Frantz knows that their customers with gasoline engines normally dont drain their oil. Diesel engines are more of a challenge because of the soot. On my old 6.9 Ford diesel I changed the little Gulf Coast junior from 1500 to 2.000 miles. The little junior was bolted to the plastic fan shroud as high as possible. The excess oil drained over night. I could change the toilet paper and add a quart of oil in about 30 seconds. The oil was black but clean. Didnt stain the skin. It passed the old trucker palm test. Didnt put a wrench on the drain plug.
When I was a kid my dad had a toilet paper oil filter on his car. He never changed the oil, just the roll of toilet paper. He only added any oil when he would change out the toilet paper roll. He said that the little bit of oil that was added helped replenish what viscosity breakdown that may have occurred over time. He had used this filter on every car he had starting with the 1936 Ford he bought in 1940 and drove until the late '50's. He transferred the filter from car to car until the late 1970's when he let it go after single ply toilet paper was too hard to find. He said that the glues used in double ply was not healthy for the engine. I believe that his filter was a backyard mechanic hack from back in the day but i recall him saying that there was a company that started producing them in the '50's.
My father was a research and developmental engineer for International Harvester. The guys my dad worked with would argue over who would get to buy my dad's old cars when it was time he bought new.
You nailed it. All the haters think they can read some science and know what they’re talking about. Nothing speaks, louder than personal experience like this.
@@dillansgarage I recently saw single ply toilet paper in the local discount department store and thought of my dad's filter. But my days of high mileage driving are over. It would have been nice to have when I was putting on 30k a year.
I normally use Great Value 1000 from Walmart.
The way people dont need to drain the oil with these filters is additives last a lot longer in clean oil. New oil added at filter change replenishes the additives. Frantz knows this. They also know people will laugh if you tell them they dont need to drain oil. People have been fed oil change bs all their lives.
The Frantz has been around since 1953. In the 80s an old couple showed me their 53 Chevy they bought new and installed a Frantz on it. Better designed filters have come and gone. Motor Guard only makes compressed air filters now. I have several in use as well as the Gulf Coast junior. Another favorite is the Australian Jackmaster Classic. Ive heard they have been around since 1954. The name comes from making jacks. They have more expensive filters but the Jackmaster Classic works for me. Its best for tight places.
Frantz themselves doesn’t even claim this system prevents future oil changes. It helps increase oil life but don’t make click baity claims that you’ll never have to change the oil again.
@@Whiskeyj456 that’s the point of the oil analysis
@@dillansgarage the point is you make click bait titles and its annoying
@ my pops never changes his oil, and I don’t plan to. Regardless of what Franz claims a lot of people have been doing that for decades with still healthy vehicles. It’s not click bait it’s experience. I explain that in the video
@@dillansgarage That's nonsense... the additives in engine oil for the latest engines become exhausted over time and mileage, so the oil must be changed no matter how good the filter is.... the oil will also become oxidized over time as well, and will need to be changed.
@ that’s why you use full pao and replenish the additives.
Dont know how we got by in the 60s Frantz and Motor Guard didnt tell us what oil to use all we had was universal models. No fancy oil fill caps. They didnt tell us we needed acid neutralizers added. The owner of Frantz said keep the oil clean and dry and you dont have acid problems. We got by.
All it amounts to is using a filter that cleans oil. That would be a toilet paper filter or other depth filter such as compressed cotton. Toilet paper is economical. Also adding enough new makeup oil at filter changes to keep the oil as good as new. The advantage of the big paper towel filters is they have a lot of depth and take a lot of make up oil. There is no such thing as no more oil changes. No more oil drains is possible. Some call it changing the oil one quart at a time.
Interesting, but I prefer to change the oil every 6 months or 6k and have an inspection during that process.
@@yuriynyc to each their own! Now imagine doing that and also having perfectly clean oil in your engine 100% of the time
It makes people feel good draining the dirty oil and putting in new oil. The full flow filter is probably still clean but they change it too. In the 60s a lot of engines were so sludged up the toilet paper could be clogged in less than 50 miles. Told my uncle we will need to change the Frantz every 50 miles or open the engine and remove the sludge. He had also removed thermostat. Said they werent needed in California. He traded the 59 Ford in on a new 63 Dodge pickup. When I was putting the Frantz on the pickup his brother drove up. He said my Frantz is no good. My oil is dirty and my lifters are noisy. I asked him if he had changed the Frantz. He said change it? The guy I bought it from said it would last a lifetime.
Was just on Ebay. They arent learning. Jackmaster eliminates oil changes. Its true but you dont say it.
With the Australian Jackmaster Classic I like to drill out the orifice and put the orifice at the inlet. Even better I drilled out the orifice and installed a Perma Cool universal 189 sandwich adapter. I have two Frantz 2 ports from the 60s. They arent universal. Dont fit anything I have. There are a lot of sandwich adapters now . Perma Cool is all I have used. Before the sandwiches I got metric to 1/8 adapters from McMaster Carr. Havent used a 1/8 inch pipe tap in a long time. I did a fleet of powerstrokes when the 6.0s first came out. The oil fill extension was plastic. Marked it before unscrewing it. Gulf Coast filters only had universals. Bolted the big filter to the frame. Told the specialist I needed a bunch of oil to fill the big filters. He brought me Walmart diesel rated 15 W 40.That was 20 years ago. Later they called saying they had more trucks. Told them to call Gulf Coast filters. I see one guy telling people you dont change oil with this filter. He had a picture of how he got pressure. It was the return port on the 7.3. He is a good guy but listens to sales people too much.
The threads on the Pontiac cap stuck to the toilet paper core. I removed the threads enough so I didnt have to pry it off. As far as filtering it doesnt matter. The filter has a angled bracket for bolting to a flat head Ford V8 head. I straightened it. The Scott is very strong. If the perforated plate is smaller than the Ford ID its ok. Part 3
I had a coolant tank cap off a 03 Pontiac Sun Fire. I was able to take it apart and make a big enough washer to bridge the space. Used a step drill to drill the plastic so it slides on the center tube. John Frantz used a steel washer with a piece of exhaust pipe welded to it with a seal . You wont need the exhaust pipe with the 1000 sheet. The lid spring and washer should push down against the big washer. Need a 1/16 inch orifice at the inlet. Or a oil cooler sandwich adapter. I am using a Motor Guard gasket on mine. They were designed for a flat gasket not sure I would trust the Motor Guard gasket in a car. On the tractor im looking down on the filter. The idea is for the oil to come in the top go down thru the Scott and out the bottom with no way for the oil to find a path around the Scott. For the Viva I used a perforated plate small enough that I could remove the spacer. The filter is low. Put a tubeless tire valve with a nut to push out the excess oil. Long nosed pliers to remove the used paper. ( PART 2)
John Frantz got his start in 1953 putting a Frantz canister inside the old optional equipment canister filters. The correct way is without the Frantz canister. That would have put him out of business. I was lucky to have a Flat head Ford V8 canister filter. They were optional equipment. There were differences. I can only explain how to convert mine. If the inlet is near the top like mine you can use it. Plug the outlet at the bottom and put a new outlet in near the old outlet. I used a self tapping hollow bolt. That bypasses the orifice in the center tube. These filters didnt drain below the orifice. You will need a perforated plate with a 1 inch spacer under it if you want to use the Scott 1000. The Ford is 4 1/2 Inch ID. I used a thread end of a full flow filter. Drilled and deburred extra holes. It gets more complicated at the top. You have to bridge the gap between the toilet paper core and the center tube. ( PART 1 )
Nice video. I’ve used TP filters for 25 years (Motor Guard and Gulf Coast). I’m now preferring Valvoline Restore and Protect. The 1000 sheet TP is still the best to use.
I normally use Great Value 1000 sheet from Walmart. We didnt have tightly wound 1 ply when Motor Guard came out in the 60s. We had high quality 2 ply. I would use the whole roll. Just before the halves came together I would push the paper in with my knife blade. I did a M 30 compressed air filter a little different for motor oil. I removed the plastic parts. Put a 2 1/2 inch OD by 1 1/4 ID washer in the bottom for a core seal. Reamed it a little so it would press on. The center tube isnt needed with the 1000 sheet. The origional lube oil filter filtered from the bottom up. A 2 inch OD flat washer was in the top. Correction The origional sealed inside the core. They required 1 1/2 inch core paper. The flat washer came later.
The owner of Gulf Coast filters passed away. His top salesman now ownes the company and discontinued the little filters. His thing is only heavy duty diesels and things like polishing aviation fuel and things like polishing Abrams tank fuel. Fuel gets bad in storage tanks or in equipment not being used enough but has to be ready to go.
The Australian Jackmaster Classic is a nice filter. They use what looks like 1000 in a sock. I drilled out the orifice on mine and used a Perma Cool universal 189 oil cooler adapter on mine. I bought several from Jegs years ago. Summit has them. There is a bunch of them now
That 1/8 inch tap brings back memories. McMaster Carr has adapters metric male to 1/8 pipe female. I took a big Gulf Coast filter and two small ones toFort Worth Texas for a big RV the generator and a Volvo. I had a 1/8 pipe tap I had used on older Volvos. This big Volvo had a oil pressure switch with straight threads and a gasket like a spark plug. The owner took me around Fort Worth until we found a adapter. I think it would have taken a Frantz Ford sandwich 2 port adapter. I had one at home but I was a long ways from home.
The Frantz 2 ports were a life saver on some cars. The oil flowing thru them created a pressure difference. A little bit more pressure in the oil line going to the Frantz than the return line. The Perma Cool 189 has a spring loaded bypass valve. It has bushings to fit most cars. You have to use a 3/4 16 thread filter. My diesel tractor uses a Motor Craft Fl 1A with a 189 sandwich and a Flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use a 4 1/2 inch Scott 1000. The Ford is 4 1/2 inch ID. John Frantz put a Frantz canister inside the Ford canister. I use only the Ford canister. I have half a roll of VIVA paper towels in it now. A lot of filter material in VIVA towels. When I was doing Gulf Coast filters the diesels used Bounty big roll paper towels. Dont know what they use now. They claim 99 percent at under 1 micron for the big one. 22 inches of depth.
If the pressure sensor is teed off, does that not mean that if the Frantz filter is clogged, the oil is just going to continue along its original path in the block, and not through the new filter due to taking the path of least resistance?
@@SparkBerry if the franz filter is clogged, everything will act as if its stock. If it’s not clogged then oil will continue to pass through the filter as intended, and cleaning the oil. What I can tell you from experience is that every time I change the filter, it’s dark and full of dirty oil remnants, and the oil in the vehicle is still clean.
Normally the bypass filters since the 1920s send a small stream of filtered oil to the oil pan. With my Perma Cool universal sandwich adapter the clean oil feeds into the inlet of the full flow filter. I still have a few Frantz 2 ports from the 60s. They depend on enough oil flow to create a pressure difference.
Its hard to clog the toilet paper filters in modern engines. I like to use Perma Cool universal 189 oil cooler sandwich adapters with my many toilet paper filters. Bought several from Jegs years ago. The filters are the same as a restricted oil cooler. The bypass valve keeps a good supply of oil going to the engine. For most gasoline and some small diesels. I think the 169 is for turbocharger lubrication. Check with Summit. Dont need an orifice. I have a few old Frantz 2 port sandwich adapters but they arent universal. Dont have anything they fit.
AMSOIL sells the modern bypass oil filter system; i think replacing the oil at 100k miles is the nominal recommendation; change the bypass at once per year and change the normal oil filter at 2X per year; so that is three oil filters per year. And a few qts of oil in addition to those three filters; so you can add the $ of that up and it may cost more than just changing your oil 2X per year including a filter, or very very close (and simple). But the bypass system is a 100 years old. you decide for your $$$$.
@@SmooveBee1 for me the cost of the Franz replacement filters is so cheap, plus the benefit of always having clean oil in your system is enough benefit
Most of us that have been using toilet paper filters for over 60 years started with a Frantz. I like the top loaders better because they are easier to service. I started in 1963 with a Frantz oil cleaner and Standard Delo 100 30W. It was 29 cents a quart in the discount stores. It was for diesel engines but my Rambler American did fine with it. Multi grades were no good in those days. Couldnt use them in a diesel. I changed the 2 ply and added a quart of Delo about every 2.000 miles. Didnt drain oil. Oil was normally a nasty mess in 2.000 miles with normal oil filters. Right now I have a Australian Jackmaster Classic on the Pontiac Torrent 3.4. I drilled out the orifice and installed a Perma Cool universal 189 sandwich adapter. Its for oil coolers but works the same for bypass filters. I normally change the Great Value 1000 from Walmart and add a quart of Walmart synthetic every 6000 miles. Since im retired now I will make adjustments. My diesel Ford tractor uses a flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use Scott 1000. A Perma Cool universal 189 sandwich and a Motor Craft FL1 A.. I have some Gulf Coast filters and Motor Guards in use.The Motor Guard on the old F 250 390 engine is over 50 years old. I am a filter guy.
I remember when Amsoil came out with the canister filters. They were far superior to the spin on filters. They had Bobby Unser saying this oil change is forever. They might have learned their lesson. People cant handle being told no more oil changes. Better to use less effective filters and say things like extends oil drain intervals. More people can handle that.
I normally change the full flow filter every 2 years and the toilet paper filter every 6.000 miles Thats mostly warm weather highway.
It takes a good salesman to convince someone Amsoil is as economical as toilet paper.
Actually your dad was right. I started in 1963 with a Frantz and.Standard Delo 100 30W. Delo came in 30W and 20W. You dont need special oil or additional additives. You dont need lab analysis.
The title is 100% clickbait. Can this extend the life of your oil? Almost certainly! But even THE VERY BEST synthetic oils have a lifespan, a long one, way way longer than you'd normally want to wait to change oil. In this case that lifespan claim on the jug actually matters. Why? Because the advertisment on the oil jug saying the oil will last 15k or 25k or some crazy shit, well thats talking about how long it takes for THE OIL ITSELF to break down and stop working right. In most standard oil systems, the oil will become full of contaminants, and general wear grime that will make it ineffective long before that oil breakdown mileage number. In the case of this special filter, all you're doing is, instead of changing your oil and filter every 3-5k like you'd normally do(if you cared about your car) you're now JUST changing the toilet paper each session, until you reach that stated oil breakdown point. Once you reach that point, you STILL need to change your oil! This filter is NOT a miracle worker. Saying that you'll "Never change your oil again!" is COMPLETE BOGUS! Can you use this to save yourself a TON of money in the long run? 100% absolutely! Is your oil now miraculously "forever oil" that you never change? NOT EVEN CLOSE! To even dare to suggest that it does, is downright disgusting and irresponsible. You should be ashamed of yourself!
Follow the money. He's shilling for this company, it's blatantly obvious.
You missed the part about full pao not breaking down. Also, haven’t changed the oil in my 1985 k20 in 15 years and it’s gotten nothing but standard oil and sometimes even dirty oil. Say what you want, but experience speaks for itself. I daily drove it for a long time and still drive it weekly.
@dillansgarage Your and your Dad's experience is not enough to make concrete and solid claims that you never have to change your oil ever again. Present data, research, experiments, studies and the like, AND THEN you can make such claims. You're stating your claims AS IF they are facts when you have not proven that they are. All you've done is given your and your father's subjective testimony in favor of the product. I don't give a FUCK about your "experience". The "experience" does NOT speak for itself. PROVE YOUR CLAIMS!!! Don't just base them solely on your own "experience". I stand by what I said. Making the claims you did, in the manner you did, without supporting it with anything other than your and your dad's subjective experience, is downright irresponsible and shameful.
I have never had any trouble finding a toilet paper filter expert. In the 60s I set up at flea markets. Also in the 80s. About every other person was an expert. Even the ones that have never seen one. Its a tough business. Motor Guard gave up on selling oil filters years ago. Gulf Coasts head salesman only does heavy duty diesels now. Mostly military and marine diesels. Also like aircraft and Abrams tank fuel. If they dont sell good he doesnt deal with them. Luckily I have some in use. The Australian Jackmaster Classic is just as good. There are other ones. I installed them on diesel trucks like paper towel filters bolted to the frame on Powerstrokes. I dont think the salesman installs them. He just takes orders. When I sold them TA truck stops serviced them.
Its called knowing enough to be dangerous. like me working on the wifes Pontiac Torrent head lights. After a few hours and a new head light switch released the parking brake and the lights came on.
Does that oil analysis take into account cylinder wall wash down by gas due to old piston rings? I'd be concerned about that.
@@2-old-Forthischet that’s a great question. I’ll pass it on to the crew at hot shot secrets!
@@dillansgarage the TP at Costco may not fit that housing! 😁
@ unfortunately it doesn’t!
Always wondered if this filter was legit. Certainly not cheap.
@ my pops has been using them for decades. People argue about oil breakdown, but that doesn’t apply to full PAO and even if you still do regular oil changes, at least you know your oil is always clean in your engine. They’re very much legit.
Actually, seeing the results of your analysis would’ve been nice. Could you update the video description with a link to your analysis?
@@ironwoodoverland I’d be happy to!
They send an email so it’d be hard to link, but maybe I’ll just make a short update video
@ yeah an update would be cool, or screen shot and an Imgur link! Thanks!
No way you can prove anything to a oil change enthusiast. Show them a roll of high quality toilet paper. If they cant figure it out dont waste your time.
@@ralphwood8818 I'm not an oil change enthusiast lol. In my line of work, and in life, practice is implemented based on evidence. Anecdotes are not evidence. He mentioned the oil test that he was sending off for analysis, but did not show the results (or post an update for that matter). The whole video could have been filmed without mentioning the analysis, but since it was mentioned, we should get to see the results.
The Frantz is a terrible design but they will get the job done. Regular toilet paper doesn't fit the Frantz now. The only paper that fits the Frantz is the paper sold by Frantz. I wont use anything but regular toilet paper. I use many toilet paper filters. I like to push in a roll of Great Value 1000 sheet and put on the lid. The Scott 1000 is good but have to unroll more paper to make it fit. In the 60s we used high quality 2 ply. For awhile I got my best 2 ply from Office Depot by the case. Frantz isnt the only toilet paper filter but it is the best known. No you dont need a special oil. In the 60s I used Standard Delo 30W. All I use now is Walmart synthetic oil. A Australian Jackmaster Classic some Motor Guards and Gulf Coast filters. A flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use 4 1/2 inch Scott 1000. Actually the guy is right. Common sense tells you things can happen to make an oil change necessary. A leaky head gasket for example. Watch out for filter companies.that use toilet paper in a bag and say it is better than regular toilet paper. I dont remember any time in the 60s where had to use 1ply. We used 2 ply facial quality toilet paper. We didnt have Frantz paper or Scott 1000. We did fine
Influencers, influencers and shills everywhere!!! They need to put the "you" back in youtube. Virtually all content on this platform is an infomercial or a low-budget 'reality' show.
@@ssjlkrillin I knew people wouldn’t like this video. I called it out in beginning of it. Lol
Probably should say no more oil drains. The reason some of us dont drain oil is additives last a lot longer in clean oil. The new oil added at filter changes replenishes the additives. For what it costs to have the oil analyzed I can change the toilet paper and add new oil. Its easy for me to tell if I need to change the filter more often. I normally dont drain oil. A leaky head gasket for example will turn the oil milky and the toilet paper will feel soggy. The same thing can happen with short trips in cold weather. I try not to start my car unless im going somewhere. Up north I drove about 70 miles a day for 7 years.
When I used the Frantz we didnt drain the oil unless we had a reason. We changed the toilet paper more often and added more makeup oil than we do now with fuel injection and modern oils. I dont remember John Frantz recommending we buy a Frantz and still drain the oil. We had things happen like leaky head gaskets. Ruptured fuel pump diaphrams. We had to keep an eye on the dipstick. Dillan pays attention to whats happening under the hood. That helps a lot. A guy came into my garage. His oil light comes on when he goes around a curve. There was just enough oil in the pan going straight. When he started around a curve the oil would go to one side of the pan and the oil pump would suck air. One guy said I got this red light thats been on a few days. It was the oil pressure light.
Hey to each their own I guess.
@@TheHonestPeanut I like having clean oil in my engine
If you could eliminate all of the reasons for oil changes you could eliminate all oil changes. The biggest reason is poor filtration. Then you get into things like leaky head gaskets. Not operating at normal operating temperature long enough for the PCV to remove the condensation and unburned fuel. If you have a filter that cleans oil and you dont take care of it. Thats about it .
The oil change trolls dont cut Dillan any slack. Some help is coming. Hang in there Dillan.
This is crazy. Never heard of. I guess I now opened up a can of worms for me. Gotta do a lot more reading on this.
@@hanseich definitely do more reading about it. There’s a lot of misconceptions surrounding bypass filters. Franz won’t tell you that you’ll never change your oil again. But if you call and talk to them, they will tell you they have clients who have not needed to change their oil for years based on their analysis.
Probably shouldn't tell people no more oil changes. They have been told all their lives proper maintenance is allowing the oil to get dirty then draining it. Keeping the oil clean sounds like snake oil to them. Frantz knows this.
I have probably changed oil at least a dozen times since 1963. I dont need lab analysis to determine if I need an oil change. I know what good oil looks and feels like.
I was looking for a good Ford 8n tractor a couple of years ago. Found a ugly Japanese Ford diesel that seemed solid mechanically. The Texas sun had done a job on it. Didnt know what oil was in it. Changed the oil. A sticker on the engine said for hot weather use 30 weight. It was over 100 degrees and I needed to deepen a pond. All Walmart had was 30 weight off road diesel oil. Changed the oil again. In the fall when it got down to freezing pulled the dip stick. The oil was too thick to circulate. I could have ordered winter rated Standard Delo 30W. Instead I changed to 15W 40 Walmart diesel rated oil. So much for me not changing oil. It got a flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use Scott 1000. Fuel is a Motor Guard with Charmin Ultra Strong. 1000 sheet is too dense for gravity. Hydraulic system has a KN and a Motor Guard in parallel. The KN is so the fluid will have a place to go if the Motor Guard clogs up. Dont want to get blown off the tractor by hydraulic pressure. Got the pressure down with a orifice and needle valve. Hydraulic oil lubricates the 12 speed transmission. The power steering. The 3 point hitch and loader. To those that dont know the W means winter grade not weight.
Looks like I triggered all the trolls in the first 30 seconds of the video lol
What you are saying is the truth. People cant handle the truth. They think oil is supposed to get dirty and be changed. You are trying to get the trolls out from under the bridge.
I can't say Ive never changed the oil. My 93 Subaru Legacy had 116.000 miles on it when i bought it.i changed the oil at 225.000 miles because I wanted to go to synthetic 0il. It has 239.467 on it now. Met a lady with a 06 Pontiac Torrent she keeps insurance on as an extra car. I started driving it. Told her I was going to put toilet paper filters on the engine and transmission. She said toilet paper oil filters.Stay away from my Accord. She needs to show some respect. I think she is softening up. She wants a new car. She came home the other night with a head light out. She said that does it we need a new car.
The Pontiac Torrent has 70.000 on it since I put the toilet paper filters on the engine and transmission. No oil drains. 210.000 on it now. I wont live long enough to wear it out. Told my wife when the computer says its time to change the oil nothing is wrong with the oil. Im disagreeing with Honda. Then she tells me they dont recommend bypass filters at the oil change place.
When I met my second wife she had just got her 66 beetle out of the shop for a swallowed valve. They told her because the beetle had no oil filter she should come in for an oil change every 1500 miles. I told her I will install a Motor Guard and it will need no more oil changes. She said cool. The Motor Guard filtered from the bottom up. Had to tilt it so the big stuff wouldnt gravity back to the engine at shut down. Frantz recommended putting the Frantz upside down on the beetle.
Milking the algorithm...no it doesn't mean you never have to change your oil. I already researched this many years ago.
@@picklepee2771 research is one thing personal experience is another. My 1985 k20 hasn’t had an oil change in 15 years 🤷♂️
I normally dont drain oil. If the oil gets milky or the toilet paper feels soggy I will see where the water is comming from fix it and change the oil. I normally drive enough at operating temperature for the PCV valve to do its job. When I buy a used car I might start with new oil. I was talking about a Peterbilt with a series 60 Detroit. The owner says it has almost no wear at 1 million miles with one oil change. It used Shell Rotella 15w 40 conventional oil and a 10 quart Gulf Coast bypass filter. Road King Magazine asked me for the truck owners phone number. They did an article. They said the new makeup oil added at filter change was equal to a full oil change every 40.000 miles. It can be misleading.
I was on UA-cam talking about my 84 Subaru with over 250.000 miles with no oil drains using a Frantz with a Frantz adapter that eliminated the full flow filter with Mobil 1 15w 50. A Caterpillar lab manager sent me a sample kit. He said the oil looks good for that many miles but suggested I change the Frantz every 6.000 miles instead of every 12.000 miles. I was driving about 12.000 miles a year and changing the Frantz about every 4 july. Been doing 6.000 since. He found some caramelization.
A kid at work came out of a restaurant to find his Chevy pickup gone. The police told him its probably half way to Mexico. I told him he could have the Subaru but both head gaskets are dripping oil. He just used a cheaper oil. It ran nice. At somewhere over 300.000 miles he went to Iraq. Never saw the car again.
My research started in 1963. I put a Frantz on my car. Later I did research on the Motor Guard the Australian Jackmaster Classic and the Gulf Coast. Not much I dont know about those filters. I have the flat head Ford V8 canister filter pretty much figured out. John Frantz put Frantz canisters in the Ford canisters. I use only the Ford canister. I am a filter guy.
We use that every day oil doesn't break down just gets dirty
@@olderolderman4603 that what my pops does. He puts dirty oil into his trucks and lets the filter clean it haha people can say what they want, but you can’t argue results.
My riding mowers have toilet paper filters. When I change the oil in the push mowers I let the used oil settle until I need a quart in the engines that have a toilet paper filter. The full flow filters are Ford car filters or sometimes Toyota.
I will be selling my 76 F250 and the 93 Subaru Legacy. I would leave the toilet paper filters on. Some people might think it has toilet paper filters on it. The engine and transmission are probably in good condition. More than likely it will be that engine and transmission is probably full of toilet paper. I do have to fix the Subaru. Getting hard to start when its cold. Im guessing but I think there is a senser near the temperature guage sensor that gives it a rich mixture when its cold. I put a fuel injector in the intake with a push button. Works great but probably not a good sales feature.
I find it hard to take advice from someone who can't figure out how to even wear a cap... Hint... the bill faces forward
@@DogAteMyPopcorn the bills gets in the way of my work sometimes so I turn around when I’m not in the sun. Just don’t want to be without it
I normally wear a hard hat. I have been known to fall. My head hits the ground first. Dont need to put on clean cloths to go into town. People ask me if I have been at work. I say yes.
Never change the oil again, just buy a new engine every 30k miles.
@@wolfschindler8921 haven’t changed the oil in my 1985 k20 in 15 years. Put a lot more than 30k miles on it.
Clean oil will virtually stop engine wear. The conventional system of allowing the oil to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it is not keeping it clean.
I have heard a lot of ignorant statements. When I was working at Ford a guy said he didnt care if they outlawed cars he would ride a horse to work. If those filters eliminated oil changes they would sell them at the oil change places.
Apologies if you are offended but this does not correlate with any scientific information - plse prove me wrong and I will gladly inform my Institute of Higher Education that I will request that my Masters be withdrawn from the record
@@garysmith1090 I take personal experience over words. My 1985 k20 hasn’t had an oil change in 15 years and I drive it every week. The oil is always clean and I even pour dirty oil in it. Just top it off ever time I change the filter
In 1963 I was working in a full service Standard station. We checked everyones oil. It was sir looks like you could use an oil change. I told this guy I see you just changed your oil. He pointed to his Frantz and said use one of these and Standard Delo. You wont need to change the oil and your engine wont wear out. The manager said he was a Standard oil engineer. After work I found a Frantz dealer. The brochure had a picture of a Frantz with 2 knobs on top. I got the over center clamp model. Years later I saw a 2 knob model at an auction. I got it for 3 dollars. They werent very strong. I saw 6 Purolator toilet paper conversions on Ebay. Probably John Frantz models.John Frantz got his start in 1953 converting the old canister filters to use superior 2 ply toilet paper. John Frantz wanted a filter media better than anything else that was economical. Bad mistake. The toilet paper jokes and bull shit stories never end.I improved them for my own use.
It doesn't require a degree to understand that clean oil is better than dirty oil. The full flow filter isnt supposed to clean oil. Its to remove the engine damaging abrasives from the full flow of oil to the engine. You drain the oil or install a depth bypass filter to remove the smaller engine wearing abrasives and absorb the sludge. Not recommended by the oil change industry.
My Mazda diesel pickup came factory equipped with both a full flow filter and a bypass filter. To clean the oil I replaced the bypass filter with a Frantz. When I sold the Mazda I offered to put the Mazda bypass filter back on. He knew about Frantzs. The Mazda bypass filter mount is still on the shelf. It would make a good primary fuel filter if I drilled out the orifice.
Clickbait title and B.S. video. Even the Frantz website says all this does is give "Extended drain intervals"
@@Kill3rT0fuuu I clearly explain in the video my personal experience never changing oil. It’s not click bait lol
Way to say you didn’t even watch the video.
Got into a debate on a Trawler forum in the 90s. I normally debate fools. This guy was a challenge. It got real when he said bring your wife down to Canaveral . I will take you on a tour and we can talk about filters. I called Gulf Coast filters and told Charlie Sims to send someone down to Canaveral that understands big engines. They were moving the shuttle then. Charlie Sims was a Frantz dealer before the Frantzs went out of production. He came out with a better toilet paper filter and big filters that used Bounty big roll paper towels. Dont know what they use now. The new owner said the 10 quart model is 99 percent at under 1 micron. Charlie Sims passed. His top salesman took over. The top salesman.dropped the little toilet paper filters. The Australian Jackmaster Classic is similar. A lot better design than Frantz. Im told NASA is a customer. One of my fleet customers needs more big filters. Im 84 and dont crawl under trucks any more than necessary.
In the 60s the Motor Guard oil filter of San Jose California was the best you could buy. They couldnt compete with the inferior but better known Frantz. They were the only ones safe to use for compressed air The M 30 is similar to the lube oil M 100. I started converting the M 30 to filter lube oil. I remove the plastic internal parts and put a 2 1/2 inch OD by 1 1/4 inch ID flat washer in the bottom for a core seal. Had to ream the ID so it would go on. With the shorter paper nothing is needed at the top. A center tube isnt needed with firm paper. Need a 1/16 inch orifice at the inlet. Motor Guard started putting stickers on the filters saying use only Motor Guard parts. I normally use Gates 3/8 transmission cooler hose and Ace hardware fittings. Im getting my old Subaru ready for the auction. It has converted Motor Guards on the engine and transmission..With the converted Motor Guards and the Australian Jackmaster Classic I push the TP down hard against the bottom and put on the top. When you start the engine the oil pressure keeps a downward pressure on the core seal.
Frantz knows that their customers with gasoline engines normally dont drain their oil. Diesel engines are more of a challenge because of the soot. On my old 6.9 Ford diesel I changed the little Gulf Coast junior from 1500 to 2.000 miles. The little junior was bolted to the plastic fan shroud as high as possible. The excess oil drained over night. I could change the toilet paper and add a quart of oil in about 30 seconds. The oil was black but clean. Didnt stain the skin. It passed the old trucker palm test. Didnt put a wrench on the drain plug.