same here im working with vertical objects and it annoys me having that darn line! lol but I think the random one looks best imo! Thanks for saving me hours of trial and error!
Dang man, this helped so much. The setting is no longer called "shell", it's under "walls" now, but this video is still 100% relevant and extremely helpful to someone new to the hobby. Thank you, CHEP.
If the seam is as noticeable as in the video, then there is a problem with the other settings. There is still pressure in the nozzle when the movement is completed and a little extra material is added when the layer is changed. The solution to this is coasting. This stops feeding the filament a few moments before stopping, so the pressure of the molten plastic is reduced and no tiny blob is formed. This eliminates the seam much better than the methods mentioned here. Together they are the best.
It took me so long to realize that with round prints, you can't really hide the seam. You just control where it goes. Seams can be especially noticeable with silk/metallic filaments, they seem to leave bigger bumps behind when you use them. Excellent advice and experiments as always =)
New-ish to 3D printing, and didn't know what was causing this vertical line. Thank you!! I mostly have it set to just print random bits and bobs, don't do any design work, but man was that driving me nuts. You are a fantastic resource, always full of useful information!
To my understanding, the "Hide Seam" option moves the seem to a place on the print that is less visible, if such a place exists. So if you imagine printing the letter "T", the seem would be at one of the corners where the horizontal line meets the vertical line. But if you're printing a cylinder or a cube, there's no such place to "hide" that seem - every possible location is basically equally visible. So I think this option only makes a difference on more complex shapes.
Under the Shell section of Cura you can find "Outer Wall Wipe Distance" this feature will move inward the nozzle after outer wall, this will hide the seam better. Try adjusting it bit-by-bit and see the difference. Cheers.
Awesome tutorial! Essential for holes as well! New to this hobby, and was wondering why I had this "artifact" running down one side of all the 1/8. 1/4, 5/32, 5/16 inch holes I had in a 1/4" PLA plate I was making. This makes fitting metal support rods through the plate about impossible without first drilling. Randomizing the seam location gets rid of this and when you push the metal rod through it effectively "deburs" the hole. Just be sure the rods aren't too tight or else you might crack the plate, so a light sanding might be best. Without this tutorial I'd be lost on this one as I kept going down the retraction rabbit hole. And indeed it's related, but if your retraction settings are reasonably good then this is the fix.
You can also hide the infill by unchecking the box next to "infill before walls". If you have overhangs you want infill first, if you want cosmetics you want walls first.
Nicely done! And, for the masters class, use the cylinder, and show how to adjust retraction, coasting, and related settings to minimize the seam as much as possible.
The Z-seam is actually the result of where the outer wall is started and ended, the layer change happens in the infill and doesn't leave anything visible. It's easy to see if you do a preview of the layer print in Cura, the first thing that is printed is the infill, and the last thing that happens is a travel move from the end of the outer wall to the spot in the infill the next layer starts at.
On a round object (like that pawn), in some cases you're much better off having a single seam in one location. It's easier to sand a single seam, which saves you from ruining the nice smooth surface on the rest of the print... compared to having to sand everywhere to get rid of all the countless little "bits", thus leaving a dull matte surface in most cases.
This was fantastic! I am making small puppet props (coffee mugs) and I get a seam. I am more than happy to sand the seam since I have to sand the print anyway, but it is so much better to know how to use the tools in Cura to place the seam in the best position. This video was direct, informative, interesting and highly instructive. Thank you so much. I do not know how you keep your workshop so clean and organized!
I just got here first time and I'm amazed in how Chep explains things. I've never put down both like AND sub in as fast as a minute in my first video watch of some unknown (to me) youtuber.
Great information, thanks as always. I never thought much about seams until I tried out the creawesome profile. I normally print a Chep cube and/or a benchy when I try out new filaments or profiles so naturally it made sense to print a few test parts with the various creawesome settings. I was not at all happy to find a big seam running up the port side of my benchy that I'd never seen before. I immediately jumped to the conclusion the creawesome profile was rubbish and was going to leave it at that. Looking into it though I found the seam settings and put the seam on a corner which tempered my crankiness somewhat. I still don't care much for the creawesome profile and switched back to the stock Cura profile and just use Chep's magic0.20 settings but I did learn something. Thanks for sharing so much of what you learn. Your videos are really helpful and I refer to them often.
I'd use spiralize aka vase mode for these. No seam and no travel if set up correctly. Reduce layer hight and increase line width (say from .4 to .5) for stronger prints. It is still a good idea to tune those "seam" settings and check your preview to be sure there are no travel lines because cura sometimes gets confused.
If you really want to hide seams on a cylinder, you might want to play with coasting, combing -> not in skin, and retract before outer wall, and retract on layer change, I have had mixed results, and it really depends on layer height and speed, but you can get a little bit less material extruding on the seam and it helps hide it.
To say „hide seam“ is useless and try it only on a cylinder is a bit silly… it does not work on round objects… try it in a complex object, it will place it on edges wherever edges are, so it’s a „clever sharpest corner mode“ 😉
Thanks yet again, CHEP! Great tutorial, perfect length and very informative. Your help has been invaluable for me getting my prints corrected. Keep up the great work!
Good video. You can also do a retract on layer change and a wipe while retracting. That helps to hide the seam if aligned, or the zits when using random seam.
Thanks - great info and well explained! This video came up when I searched for "layer start cura". Because I've liked your videos before, this is the first video I picked. ❤️
Thanks Chep. Didn't know I could do anything with the seam. I like the way you walked me through various setting to see what they would do. As Mr. Burns on the simpsons remarks... excellent
Thank you! I've been perfecting my 3DBenchy prints and the only issue I had left was the seam. Used this feature to move it to the bow of the boat and it's SUPER clean now. Brilliant!
Freaking awesome Chep! I thought it was just a part of FDM printing that I would have to live with. I had no idea I could have control over it, especially this much....thank you sir, you have done it again...great content!
I like to with my ender 3 with 0.04mm layer height, 103% filament flow rate and pla at 230° And the prints are super strong and waterproof. And slower you print the stronger it becomes
You can also add some post print strength by annealing the prints in a low temp oven. Google "annealing 3d prints", also "baking 3D prints". You'll find charts with recommended temps & times for various plastics. Some plastics it can be a dramatic improvement. Good on you for learning the most important 3D rule - don't be in a hurry. Slowing down handles a myriad of problems. I've seen people spend weeks trying to learn how to make their printer faster, going through dozens of failed prints when if they slowed down at first it was an extra hour. Duh.
Why when printing cylinders, the head always travels to a complete loop and then changes direction? AND WHY IS IT WHEN I ASK THIS QUESTION PEOPLE LOOK AT ME LIKE I'M MAD? Take a look at a cube - it goes round and round in one direction - switch to a cylinder and and goes clockwise - anticlockwise WHY? Wouldn't it be faster and with less vibrations if it goes in one direction?????
Exactly this. It helps a little on prints with sharp corners, if you don't like the tactile feel of a seam on an outside corner. Lots of people here are recommending "Smart Hiding", but that does more or less the same thing - it allows inside corner and outside corner seams but prefers inside. Nothing but vase mode will hide a seam on a round part.
Thanks to you it suddenly dawned on me that I might have access to these options via the preferenes menu and Hurrah, that was it ! Now I can undetake a new print of something round. Many thanks for your informative videos.
What do you think about disabling “Infill Before Walls”, and using multiple walls, making sure there is no Z hop on outer wall. The print head goes Inner Wall > Outer Wall > Infill > Layer Change > Inner Wall... No Z seam in outermost wall at least.
@@hansense1760 Basically, I use a slightly higher than normal flow rate +2% ish and enable coasting. play around with the coasting volume, I have it set a teensy tiny bit higher than default. The higher flow rate adds a bit of extra pressure in the nozzle that will leak out while coasting. If that extra pressure and coast volume are balanced just right it can lay down very clean blobless lines. I'm on an ender 5 btw. ender 3 is no different.
@@jenshendriks9092 Thanks for the further info! Just getting started (bought the Sovol SV02) and every print is another attempt at getting it right, for me. I'm trying as many tips as I can to get the expected results, so even if they don't seem like much, your details will guide me and help with learning the seemingly hundreds of settings and how they affect my outcomes!
great videos! My problem is I feel lucky when I remember to do something you showed here before I start a print? Still many of your ideas have been great like the pause at layer height! I was going it before but manually! but of course that means being at the printer at the time! could be at 3:00 AM. keep up the good work that no others are doing! thank you.
Hey Chuck, I don't use Cura much, except for the Sigma. But when I used it a while ago, I found that the Hide Seam option places the seam on an internal angle of the print, essentially hiding it in an internal corner.
great video, however you didnt really say how remove the seam from a cylinder, apart from to randomise it, unless i missed something which is completely feasible
If you have a solid with in-fill. Why can it not "rise" inside the print slightly, then move to the start point? Leaving the extra plastic inside the model?
It can, there is a setting for that (something in the order of "print outer walls first". However, the seam is coming from remaining nozzle pressure when the extrusion ends and the nozzle moves to the next location (also in the same layer). Coasting can improve this, but the best is linear advance with newer marlin versions.
THANKS! i tried to use seams before but could not guess what X/Y position was on the build plate itself. You showed me i had to select Z- relative so that i could use the parts dimensions to determine X/Y position. Thanks
In Prusa Slicer I do not have these seam problems. I've run full 32mm bases and nor even looked at my mini settings and it just gets this right. However in Cura this seems to be a sustained issue. I had this seam build up on a silk filament today and it was pretty disappointing since the main change was going to Cura.
Thanks for the video, somehow i got this from searching "creality slicer random end" as I didn't realize the term seam perfectly encapsilates the problem I've been having, when trying to print bearings.
Nice, but what I want to do is if I have three layers on shell I want to start in the middle and have the seam in the middle so hide inside and outside of the part. I just can't figure out how to do it
Well, I'm printing radius fingers for my box and pan metal brake. I print them standing on edge because the radius is the most important part and I can print each finger without support. With sharpest corner selected it decided to place the seam directly on my radius. I'm beginning to think cura is getting worse with each iteration. Current version 5.1.0 Thanks for your video. I think I'm going to find a way to fix it. Update: I now know how to specify definitively where to place my z-seam. Problem solved.
Chep you are totally awesome. It's a problem I've been struggling with and you solved it.
Same here....!!
same here im working with vertical objects and it annoys me having that darn line! lol but I think the random one looks best imo! Thanks for saving me hours of trial and error!
You guys should all try my 0.12 profile (round)
@@FilamentFriday where can I find your cura profiles?
www.chepclub.com/cura-profiles.html
The way this guy injects a little smile in his presentation every time at the right timing, make his video very pleasant.
He can sell you a car you didn't know you needed.
@@nerdkink true
Dang man, this helped so much. The setting is no longer called "shell", it's under "walls" now, but this video is still 100% relevant and extremely helpful to someone new to the hobby. Thank you, CHEP.
Your tutorials are by far the most accurate and easy to follow on all of youtube. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
If the seam is as noticeable as in the video, then there is a problem with the other settings. There is still pressure in the nozzle when the movement is completed and a little extra material is added when the layer is changed.
The solution to this is coasting. This stops feeding the filament a few moments before stopping, so the pressure of the molten plastic is reduced and no tiny blob is formed. This eliminates the seam much better than the methods mentioned here. Together they are the best.
I am sure he knows this. You can’t set it to hide the seam. You’d have a hole with no filament. No way yiu know more than chep.
@@dugy40 Maybe though?
It took me so long to realize that with round prints, you can't really hide the seam. You just control where it goes. Seams can be especially noticeable with silk/metallic filaments, they seem to leave bigger bumps behind when you use them. Excellent advice and experiments as always =)
New-ish to 3D printing, and didn't know what was causing this vertical line. Thank you!! I mostly have it set to just print random bits and bobs, don't do any design work, but man was that driving me nuts. You are a fantastic resource, always full of useful information!
If you neglected to show how to hide it ? Just re position it. Coasting ? Coasting distance? You’ve left me hanging. 🙂
Coasting and wiping are the only ways i found that seem to help. I have been messing with flow rate and some luck also.
To my understanding, the "Hide Seam" option moves the seem to a place on the print that is less visible, if such a place exists. So if you imagine printing the letter "T", the seem would be at one of the corners where the horizontal line meets the vertical line. But if you're printing a cylinder or a cube, there's no such place to "hide" that seem - every possible location is basically equally visible. So I think this option only makes a difference on more complex shapes.
You've been my go-to guy for ender 3 information, tips, and tricks! Loving these videos. Simple and straightforward. BIG thank you and keep it up!
Under the Shell section of Cura you can find "Outer Wall Wipe Distance" this feature will move inward the nozzle after outer wall, this will hide the seam better. Try adjusting it bit-by-bit and see the difference. Cheers.
i don't have the shell section
@@gudelauneee Wall in cura.
@@gudelauneee Also I found those options are disabled by default, you have to enable them first to show up
Awesome tutorial! Essential for holes as well! New to this hobby, and was wondering why I had this "artifact" running down one side of all the 1/8. 1/4, 5/32, 5/16 inch holes I had in a 1/4" PLA plate I was making. This makes fitting metal support rods through the plate about impossible without first drilling. Randomizing the seam location gets rid of this and when you push the metal rod through it effectively "deburs" the hole. Just be sure the rods aren't too tight or else you might crack the plate, so a light sanding might be best. Without this tutorial I'd be lost on this one as I kept going down the retraction rabbit hole. And indeed it's related, but if your retraction settings are reasonably good then this is the fix.
You can also hide the infill by unchecking the box next to "infill before walls". If you have overhangs you want infill first, if you want cosmetics you want walls first.
Nicely done! And, for the masters class, use the cylinder, and show how to adjust retraction, coasting, and related settings to minimize the seam as much as possible.
The Z-seam is actually the result of where the outer wall is started and ended, the layer change happens in the infill and doesn't leave anything visible. It's easy to see if you do a preview of the layer print in Cura, the first thing that is printed is the infill, and the last thing that happens is a travel move from the end of the outer wall to the spot in the infill the next layer starts at.
On a round object (like that pawn), in some cases you're much better off having a single seam in one location. It's easier to sand a single seam, which saves you from ruining the nice smooth surface on the rest of the print... compared to having to sand everywhere to get rid of all the countless little "bits", thus leaving a dull matte surface in most cases.
This was fantastic! I am making small puppet props (coffee mugs) and I get a seam. I am more than happy to sand the seam since I have to sand the print anyway, but it is so much better to know how to use the tools in Cura to place the seam in the best position. This video was direct, informative, interesting and highly instructive. Thank you so much. I do not know how you keep your workshop so clean and organized!
I just got here first time and I'm amazed in how Chep explains things. I've never put down both like AND sub in as fast as a minute in my first video watch of some unknown (to me) youtuber.
Great information, thanks as always. I never thought much about seams until I tried out the creawesome profile. I normally print a Chep cube and/or a benchy when I try out new filaments or profiles so naturally it made sense to print a few test parts with the various creawesome settings. I was not at all happy to find a big seam running up the port side of my benchy that I'd never seen before. I immediately jumped to the conclusion the creawesome profile was rubbish and was going to leave it at that. Looking into it though I found the seam settings and put the seam on a corner which tempered my crankiness somewhat. I still don't care much for the creawesome profile and switched back to the stock Cura profile and just use Chep's magic0.20 settings but I did learn something. Thanks for sharing so much of what you learn. Your videos are really helpful and I refer to them often.
I'd use spiralize aka vase mode for these. No seam and no travel if set up correctly. Reduce layer hight and increase line width (say from .4 to .5) for stronger prints. It is still a good idea to tune those "seam" settings and check your preview to be sure there are no travel lines because cura sometimes gets confused.
Im convinced this man is the god of 3D printing
If you really want to hide seams on a cylinder, you might want to play with coasting, combing -> not in skin, and retract before outer wall, and retract on layer change, I have had mixed results, and it really depends on layer height and speed, but you can get a little bit less material extruding on the seam and it helps hide it.
To say „hide seam“ is useless and try it only on a cylinder is a bit silly… it does not work on round objects…
try it in a complex object, it will place it on edges wherever edges are, so it’s a „clever sharpest corner mode“ 😉
Thanks yet again, CHEP! Great tutorial, perfect length and very informative. Your help has been invaluable for me getting my prints corrected. Keep up the great work!
I'm really enjoying your channel. New to 3D printing and your videos make everything easier to understand
Good video. You can also do a retract on layer change and a wipe while retracting. That helps to hide the seam if aligned, or the zits when using random seam.
Thanks - great info and well explained! This video came up when I searched for "layer start cura". Because I've liked your videos before, this is the first video I picked. ❤️
Thanks Chep. Didn't know I could do anything with the seam. I like the way you walked me through various setting to see what they would do. As Mr. Burns on the simpsons remarks... excellent
Thank you! I've been perfecting my 3DBenchy prints and the only issue I had left was the seam. Used this feature to move it to the bow of the boat and it's SUPER clean now. Brilliant!
What setting did you use?
Thank you very much. Every video from you help me to improve my prints. You are easy to follow and it is a pleasure watching you.
Cura has now a "smart hiding" feature, so this is a thing from the past, no more seam problems for me ever since.
Where is that at?
@@jjbing3 Shell > Seam Corner Preference > Smart Hiding
This seams to be helpful video! thx
😂
Thanks for the quick and simple explanation of what a seam is and the different ways you can deal with it :)
Hide seam isn't pointless but on this print it's impossible to hide, it's why it's a preference.
Freaking awesome Chep! I thought it was just a part of FDM printing that I would have to live with. I had no idea I could have control over it, especially this much....thank you sir, you have done it again...great content!
Keep the videos coming my friend! HUGE help!
I have never noticed the seam. Thanks for the tips on eliminating it.
I really thought it was an error on my print XD
thanks for the video !
hide seam puts it at an edge... there are no edeges on your cylinder
You are so amazing please don’t stop making videos I need them
Awesome lesson! Just getting into 3D printing and your info is very useful.
I like to with my ender 3 with 0.04mm layer height, 103% filament flow rate and pla at 230°
And the prints are super strong and waterproof. And slower you print the stronger it becomes
You can also add some post print strength by annealing the prints in a low temp oven. Google "annealing 3d prints", also "baking 3D prints". You'll find charts with recommended temps & times for various plastics. Some plastics it can be a dramatic improvement. Good on you for learning the most important 3D rule - don't be in a hurry. Slowing down handles a myriad of problems. I've seen people spend weeks trying to learn how to make their printer faster, going through dozens of failed prints when if they slowed down at first it was an extra hour. Duh.
@@mrputerpro5383 exactly
Why when printing cylinders, the head always travels to a complete loop and then changes direction?
AND WHY IS IT WHEN I ASK THIS QUESTION PEOPLE LOOK AT ME LIKE I'M MAD?
Take a look at a cube - it goes round and round in one direction - switch to a cylinder and and goes clockwise - anticlockwise
WHY? Wouldn't it be faster and with less vibrations if it goes in one direction?????
Good question. I have no idea.
I love your vids. They are short and straight to the point.
Hehe, I first read this as:
"Love your kids.
They are short and straight to the point."
🤦♂️
🇨🇦🐧
"Hide seam" puts the seam on an inside corner, hiding it. Your model is round and has no corners, so...yeah
Exactly this. It helps a little on prints with sharp corners, if you don't like the tactile feel of a seam on an outside corner. Lots of people here are recommending "Smart Hiding", but that does more or less the same thing - it allows inside corner and outside corner seams but prefers inside. Nothing but vase mode will hide a seam on a round part.
Hate to be "that guy" but why doesn't have an option to do this in the fill where it can't be seen?
Exactly
I guess you could print the infill before the shell so the seam essentially in in the infill and you dint see it. Is that possible in cura?
Thanks to you it suddenly dawned on me that I might have access to these options via the preferenes menu and Hurrah, that was it ! Now I can undetake a new print of something round. Many thanks for your informative videos.
seams always bother me and I didn't know I can get rid of them so easily. Thank you!
What do you think about disabling “Infill Before Walls”, and using multiple walls, making sure there is no Z hop on outer wall.
The print head goes Inner Wall > Outer Wall > Infill > Layer Change > Inner Wall...
No Z seam in outermost wall at least.
I might try that
I use coasting to get rid of seams. I can get round prints without any seam whatsoever without touching any of these settings.
Will you provide some more details so everyone can try your method?
@@hansense1760 Basically, I use a slightly higher than normal flow rate +2% ish and enable coasting. play around with the coasting volume, I have it set a teensy tiny bit higher than default. The higher flow rate adds a bit of extra pressure in the nozzle that will leak out while coasting. If that extra pressure and coast volume are balanced just right it can lay down very clean blobless lines. I'm on an ender 5 btw. ender 3 is no different.
@@jenshendriks9092 Thanks for the further info! Just getting started (bought the Sovol SV02) and every print is another attempt at getting it right, for me. I'm trying as many tips as I can to get the expected results, so even if they don't seem like much, your details will guide me and help with learning the seemingly hundreds of settings and how they affect my outcomes!
@JaXX Is your extrusion rate too high? That could lead to ineffectivity of coasting. Also make sure your filament is really dry
Wizard.....you are a wizard. Thank you Chep.
Old video but, hide seam is more for when you have an enclosed/manifold shape. It will then put the seam inside with the infill.
Hide and Expose seam has to do with the corner. So if the Corner shows inward or outwards and in which of the two the seam is printed
great videos! My problem is I feel lucky when I remember to do something you showed here before I start a print? Still many of your ideas have been great like the pause at layer height! I was going it before but manually! but of course that means being at the printer at the time! could be at 3:00 AM. keep up the good work that no others are doing! thank you.
thank you chep for all your videos. you are a great help! i always choose your videos i think they are the best explained
CHEP, you are awesome!! Keep helping us print better pls.
Hey Chuck, I don't use Cura much, except for the Sigma. But when I used it a while ago, I found that the Hide Seam option places the seam on an internal angle of the print, essentially hiding it in an internal corner.
That's exactly what it does. Hide seam will likely place on an internal corner and expose seam will place on external corners.
TY for this, Subscribed and liked. Appreciate the time you took making this.
Thank you for sharing, This is 100% helpful for optimizing the quality of printer
Thanks but I'm really not sure where you showed about eliminating it.
Nice video Chep! As others have mentioned getting the coasting right helps too. Nice channel, subscribed.
Thank you a lot ! I was struggling with this for a week now !
Outer walls first has alot of warnings, have you seen any improvements using this?
It is possible to completely eliminate the seam by using vase mode, but it has the obvious disadvantages (thin walls, not every model possible)
great video, however you didnt really say how remove the seam from a cylinder, apart from to randomise it, unless i missed something which is completely feasible
agreed
I did however find away to do iy
@@MrOrangeman18 how?
Excellent video. Very well explained. Told me all I needed to know!
What would we do without you?!? You are awesome !
That was just want I needed to know. Thanks, Chuck!
If you have a solid with in-fill. Why can it not "rise" inside the print slightly, then move to the start point? Leaving the extra plastic inside the model?
VERY GOOD QUESTION MATE!
It can, there is a setting for that (something in the order of "print outer walls first". However, the seam is coming from remaining nozzle pressure when the extrusion ends and the nozzle moves to the next location (also in the same layer). Coasting can improve this, but the best is linear advance with newer marlin versions.
I noticed this the other day on a round print. Good to know it's not a mechanical issue.
Are there not retraction and temperature settings you can tweak to improve the seam visibility?
Those settings don’t affect seams.
I think linear advance or something similar would help.
Reallty interesting. I'll be having a look at these settings after work!
Amazingly well explained i thank you. I have a lot better understanding now.
Sub well earned Sir
You make me a little smarter every Friday....
What if you want to place a seam on the wall of a print, not in the corner?
THANKS! i tried to use seams before but could not guess what X/Y position was on the build plate itself. You showed me i had to select Z- relative so that i could use the parts dimensions to determine X/Y position. Thanks
I found this video once again and once again THANKFUL for explaining X/Y. helps a ton. thanks again
Thanks man I really appreciate it I have been printing model rockets and I keep getting a seem this helped me alot thanks!!!!!
Definitely should help, I printed cloudgate or the bean if you're from Chicago and love it but it has a seam on one half😅
CHEP I feel like you'd be the man to ask about this! How would one go about editing the g-code to iron every layer? I hope to hear from you, thanks!
In Prusa Slicer I do not have these seam problems. I've run full 32mm bases and nor even looked at my mini settings and it just gets this right. However in Cura this seems to be a sustained issue. I had this seam build up on a silk filament today and it was pretty disappointing since the main change was going to Cura.
The reason your hide seam didn't work is because you had no corners to hide it. It will pick a concave angled corner if it can.
Thanks for the video, somehow i got this from searching "creality slicer random end" as I didn't realize the term seam perfectly encapsilates the problem I've been having, when trying to print bearings.
Hide seem puts the seam on an inside corner. Expose seam puts the seam on an outside corner. So it won’t help on a cylinder. Coasting will help tho.
What’s this coasting you speak of? 🤔
@@jjbing3 it’s a setting in Cura
Would be interested in seeing you reprint the tests with Cura 4.8 and the new smart hiding option on z seam.
I just got notified for this update, is it worth updating?
@@ediblecacti It is if you are using 4.7. 4.7 was a buggy mess, but 4.6 was very stable and bug free.
@@Stormtrooper1787 ok, thank you.
smart hiding isn't new feature. it's there for ages. and doesn't help much
Good video 👍 maybe one day we see no more seam in a 3d print
Very informative. Thank you for making this video!
Had no idea those settings existed. Thank you!
Extremely helpful ! Thanks !!
Would using inner wall seam make it less visible on the outside?
This was supper help full but I still get a seam that fuses my prints together
Nice, but what I want to do is if I have three layers on shell I want to start in the middle and have the seam in the middle so hide inside and outside of the part.
I just can't figure out how to do it
by using the co-ordinate function to hit the middle one?
Thanks Chep !
I second that, you are great, very explanatory and clear. thank you very much
Thank you, you made this very easy to understand. Now I feel I've got the hang of it. Perfect.
Why is it always your vids that solve my issues I'm trying to figure out? Seems like a trap to make me subscribe!
Well, I'm printing radius fingers for my box and pan metal brake. I print them standing on edge because the radius is the most important part and I can print each finger without support. With sharpest corner selected it decided to place the seam directly on my radius. I'm beginning to think cura is getting worse with each iteration. Current version 5.1.0
Thanks for your video. I think I'm going to find a way to fix it.
Update: I now know how to specify definitively where to place my z-seam.
Problem solved.
thanks was just working on this myself, been doing lithopanes so corner works great for me
Old high school algebra finally paying off with X & Y coordinates.
Looks like a little fine grit sandpaper is how you eliminate it.