Ultralight Mountaineering Gear || 2023
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- Опубліковано 28 лип 2024
- Hey everyone! This video is a quick and dirty look into what gear I will be using in 2023. I have really tried to prioritize being lighter weight, as well as moving faster. This stems from the belief that the faster you are moving, the safer you are. I also strongly believe that; the lighter the pack is, the more fun I'm having.
Thank you so much for watching, and enjoy the video!
For inquiries - teatimeinthealpine@gmail.com - Спорт
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience !
Very well done as usual. Hope you guys are enjoying the weather and playing safe in the mountains
Always!! Thanks for always watching!
Good video. Love the look of that gear room.
Thank you!
I use a Mountain equipment Squall softshell, its a bit like the borealis, but has an offset zip.
Great video! Loving your content at the minute!
Thank you! I’m glad you’re enjoying it!
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 no worries man! Currently trying to get a hold of the Scarpa Phantom Tech boots but they’re like impossible to get in EU49 over her in the U.K.!
You ever used the RAB LATOK 38 rucksack?
@@jackgraham1450 Bro, thank you for mentioning the Rab Latok pack! I have not used it, but I literally just purchased it. I took one look at it and knew I had to own it.
The 49s are so hard to find! If you can't, the La Sportiva G5 Evo is a really good boot and easy to find in a 48. The 48 fits the same as the 49 Scarpa.
Nice choices! :)
In terms of carabiners you could take a look at Grivel - they make superb ones with clever designs (for example an extremely light auto biner).
For harnesses the Edelrid Loopo Lite or BD Couloir UL could also be a great option vs. the Blue Ice one (didn't like the latter too much either).
I love the prisma guide by edelrid. Have you used it? If I’m not mistaken, the BD couloir is a step in. I want zero step ins. 😂
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 No, didn’t try that one yet. Already have too many anyways haha.
And no, the UL one is a diaper style . :D
@@vanCapere no diaper style for me hahaha!!!
Blue Ice Aero is a steel screw, not aluminum. I don't think there are any aluminum screws on the market that don't have steel teeth on the end.
Great video, Taylor. We rock very similar setups with only a few differences. Clothing wise we have all the same kit. I've moved away from Rab a bit since a lot of their jackets have sleeves which are a touch too long for me. I'm on the smaller side and have moved to Mountain Equipment for clothing, generally. I have Petzl Sum'tec tools which I really like. They're pretty light with enough weight to them for good sticks. They are very aggressive and likely wouldn't be great on anything over WI4 though. I'm still rocking the Sarkens for glacier travel and light mixed climbing. I have Darts for anything purely technical. I picked up the Choucas Pro and now hope it'll hold up, lol. If not, I'll move over to the Prisma Guide. I'm still mulling over rope, pack, and boot choice. I want to get away from single leathers but also want to be sure I'd be warm on peaks like Rainier and Baker in shoulder season. Since I'm looking at taking a course in the PNW this spring, all the guide services pretty much require double boots. I'd generally trend towards the Phantom Techs but really don't want to rent double plastics. Pack wise I'm still uncertain. I was looking at the HMG Ice 3400 but still need to do more research. Hoping for something light but big enough for overnights.
The Sum'Tec is an awesome bit of kit! I will likely pick some up shortly. Would love to use them poking around some Olympic Range traverses I have planned. They are a couple ounces lighter then the Edelrids. I have worn the Ribelle Tech 2.0 on multiple Rainier/Baker climbs and have felt they have been adequate. I did a video on them. The Sarkens are awesome for a do-it-all bit of kit. They are great all around hard wearing crampons. I love mine, and have over 2000 miles in them. You can't go wrong with HMG. I have trended away from large packs because anything 50 miles or less, I'm pushing in a single day. The Phantom Techs are awesome, and there is no way I would be wearing a proper double unless it's actual winter months on a big mountain. I am surprised a guide service is requiring doubles later in the year, usually they only require a decent single.
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 are you actually saying you do 50 miles days?
@@GiovanniRuffinengo Yes, we have. It really depends on how much weight we are carrying. Heavy packs mean shorter days for sure! But I have done 50+ mile runs.
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 Sorry, I'm just surprised as I feel exhausted after 10 miles of alpinism. 50 mile runs/hikes aren't something I do, but I've seen people do. Ty
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 I think you'll like the Sum'tecs. I added the Quark trigger rest to mine to make them slightly more technical and remove them for less technical routes. I'll look to the Phantom Techs since doubles at this stage seem like overkill, like you pointed out. I'm typically in the same boat as you when it comes to single pushes. I'd prefer to have less gear, require a smaller weather window, and move faster than spend multiple days on the mountain, etc. I was hoping to single push Rainier next summer but have had issues finding trustworthy partners with the fitness/interest. Hence why I'll end up needing a slightly bigger pack than I typically carry.
I love this video and I'm taking notes!! Can you comment/do a video where you comment on the different gear you would take on a multi-day trip?
Yeah I definitely will do a video!
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 can't wait! Haha, I'm already checking back to see if you did a video on case I missed it!
@@nickgerstenlauer4111 not quite! But soon!
Great video!... What's your opinion of the La Sportiva Aequilibrium for Alpine Ridge routes vs a stiffer boot?? I like how the Aequilibrium feel more nimble.
I actually think they are awesome! I used to Scarpa Ribelle Tech 2.0 quite a bit and really liked the boot!
Great breakdown! what is your choice of carabiners (essential) for a mountaineering setup?
Hey! I actually touch on this towards the end of this video!
I would advise against using solid gate carabiners for the simple reason that they can freeze shut making them hard to open. Wire gates dont freeze up. Just my opinion.
This feels like a RAB/Edelrid infomercial.
What can I say, they make really fine kit!
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 Yep. I've got a lot of RAB gear. All of it is good.
Great video, thanks 🙏
Just a couple remarks...
I don't see what you're talking about with blue ice's choucas pro harness, mine is still going strong and took a lot of abuse, seems like your a bit biased with edelrid ☺️
For the blue ice ice screws, the aero are actually fully steal and the aero lite are lighter and made out of aluminium with the tip being out of steal ;)
Actually I’m not biased. The blue ice harness wore quickly for me. As did a lot of fellow climbers’ blue ice harnesses. I’m glad it’s working for you! I see it often out and about.
the attila weighs almost double of what the ride does. petzl gully is theultra light choice for everything up to wi 3/4 (at least for me )
I know! I definitely agree with you about the Gully. I am shocked that the Attila weighs so much more, being functionally identical. Crazy.
Just recently found your videos/channel while investigating the Borealis for Backcountry skiing. Since you’ve used others, any input for that sport? My other options are BD Alpine Start and Houdini Air from Patagonia
All three solid options. The Houdini air is crazy light. I’ve climbed next to one. My buddy was wearing it. It will not take a beating. If you do any shwacking at all, it’s not the jacket for you. A great jacket to add to a quiver though. The BD alpine start, I’ve used. I like it. Same story, not as hard-wearing as the borealis. Close in weight. My borealis jackets have lasted over 5 years without a rip. I can’t say the same for the BD, and I know the Patagonia won’t. Though, the Houdini air is realistically in a different category. If you only buy one, buy the borealis. If you buy two, buy the borealis and the Houdini air. Best of both worlds.
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 super helpful! Thank you. I should have added that I heat up easily and concerned for light weather and most wind (I have a shell for a reason). Seems the RAB is hardcore
@@rtpcannon the borealis breathes very well! Some jackets that are lighter, often made of a wind shirt material, do not breathe as well. For example, I have the Rab wind hoody. It is much lighter then the Borealis but it doesn’t breathe when you’re on the move. I’ve literally only used it once because I can’t fathom carrying a wind proof layer that isn’t waterproof, that doesn’t breathe. Because, I already have my shell. The Patagonia Houdini air is reminiscent of this.
Great video, as usual! What happened with your Blue Ice Choucas Pro? I've heard you mention that it failed on you a few times in videos, including this one--is there a video where you explain what happened? I bought one a few months back with a nice discount and haven't had any issues (yet), and the reviews online seem to be universally good. It would be great to hear about what happened with yours and why you switched. Thanks!
Well, its possible they have improved the harness. I purchased one when they were initially released. The webbing was coming apart after first use. All of the knots tied from the factory came untied. Obviously easily retied, but of course it would happen at the worst time. I was stuck in a blizzard trying to navigate a glacier with mitts on, attempting to retie knots on my brand new harness. One of the gear loops ripped off the harness when it snagged. When I posted these findings, I had a lot of response from the local community. They responding with the same initial findings I had.
I am curious though, since it's been a few years, if the harness has been updated. Either way, the Prisma Guide is bomber!!
Also, I had a poor introduction to Blue Ice as a company. I used the Warthog pack for a few climbs. The system that secured the compression straps tore off, as well as the chest buckle constantly coming unbuckled. I know they tried to make an extremely lightweight pack. It was light. But other companies have made packs as light, without any issues.
I hope they have bettered their quality control.
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 Interesting! Thanks so much. Sounds like a bad experience for sure. I was worried you were going to say that that tiny little belay loop snapped or that the tie-in points failed after just a few uses, which would have terrified me lol. I do wonder if they have updated it. The webbing on mine has held up ok, although it isn't going to last as long as a more traditional harness of course, and the only knots that I notice on mine are on the webbing connecting the leg loops to the waist belt--I'll definitely secure/replace those before taking it out again. I hope it lasts because it's a comfy, lightweight, super functional harness--but without durability, none of that matters obviously, so I appreciate your insight. I almost got the Prisma Guide! Maybe I'll grab one after this one wears out, because it seems great.
@@ben_gee_min Good to know! I have a few Prisma Guides to wear out before I move onto another option. But maybe I'll keep my eye out for other climbers in the Blue Ice kit and find out if they have had issues. Be safe out there!
For the Rab Borealis, would you recommend getting it in the same size as my force hoodies and shirts (which fit perfect)?
I wear a medium force hoody, and wear a small borealis. The medium borealis always fits great. I prefer my soft shell to fit tight. Some would argue it’s too small for me. 😆 Hopefully that helps.
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 Thanks for the reply, I took your advice and just bought it on sale in both sizes. Ill keep both, one form fitting and one for a midlayer.
“If I’m expecting to take a whip into a crevasse…” uuuuhhh is this a common occurrence? Lol
Nope. But I wouldn’t use it on big so Alaskan glaciers! Too bad the flycatcher isn’t available anymore. That was an awesome rope.
What about water filters? In the summer its easy to find water and purify it, but how do you do it in winter? When you melt the snow its going to be full or dirt and nasty stuff. How do you filter that out?
Yup! I try my best to find clean untouched snow. Boil for a minute. You can certainly filter as well for peace of mind if you think it's necessary. But also, this can be a dirty sport. haha. Sometimes you might eat a little dirt, and I'm okay with that! hahahaha.
Love my Petzl Gulleys for light axes. Makes the Ride irrelevant for the climbing inclined.
Yup! I gotta agree with you. I'll be adding some to the quiver shortly! Thank you.
Is that a single boot?
Im looking at the Mammut Norwand High Knit. Anyone have experience or knowledge in this boot?
It is technically a "single" boot. Kind-of. It will commonly be referred to as a 1.5 boot. It has an inner boot with a non-removeable gaiter. Weighing less then your typical heavy duty single mountaineering boot!
Hard to deny that you're getting sponsored by edelrid
I’d love it if they would. But they don’t. I’m a sucker from getting everything from the same company when I can. That’s why most of my soft goods is from Rab Equipment. It does develop a good relationship, and then at the end of a season when and if anything needs repair, I can just send it to one place vs many. That mainly only goes for soft goods. Regardless, edelrid makes really, really excellent kit.
I remember your channel used to be called Blacklist Mountaineering. Why did you change the name?
Yes it did! Well, some people were mentioning that I had started posting some mountain running videos instead of just climbing videos. Which is true. I want to incorporate some of both. Plus, tea is damn good in the alpine! haha.
FWIW, Salathe is pronounced "sal-a-thay", not "salaith"
I get the feeling this guy is sponsored by Rab?…..
I sure wish. I just support the company because of the quality. I try other gear and am typically disappointed. However, i do opt for other brands every now and then.
Clearly this is just a add for RAB gear! (sort of obvious i guess, so maybe i just missed the text or him honestly saying so?)
haha. I wish you were right! I'd love to work with Rab. I am just a fan boy, and once you try their products you'll understand! It would be illegal for me to upload a video without mentioning I was given gear for my opinion, or paid to make the video. Which, I was not. Thanks for watching!