These videos are great :) I need to do a fare bit of work in my 17th century house, I'm sure I will refer back to these when it comes to the roof :) Thank you ॐ
Nice job, thanks for sharing. As a carpenter myself, I have always argued that the joist/beam is compromised in depth from the base of the tusk, its like notching out an 8x3" to a 6x3". This is why when the joint is structural, I always do the base of the two members the same as the top so that the whole beam is supported in its depth.
From what I have been taught, your tenon should be set out centred on the beam along the neutral axis, this way you are removing the minimum amount of wood that is actually working in the beam.On a 300 beam 150 centre, mark tenon 125/175 from top arris, the bearing shoulder below need only be 30 mm deep by 30mm back to the square shoulder, leaving plenty of support below.
+Gareth Dirlam Its all engineered joists and metal web joists specified these days, its something I wanted to cut and video. Thanks for your comments Gareth.
If building regs will allow it, that’s how I’m going to join my floor joists around the staircase! If a flimsy tin joist hanger is ok then that’s got to pass!
I would love to see a graphic, explaining the forces at play on the joint and how the tusk stops rotation, for that is what I think it is doing. Also explaining why the tusk should be on the top, bottom, left or right depending on the situation?
Wow. That's 200-year joint if I've ever seen one. Kind of a random question - is there a reason more people don't make one side of the tenon with two straight cuts? (as opposed to making all those quarter inch cuts with a skill saw and hammering and chiseling away the waste)
watch my video ua-cam.com/video/1nfTS2TWEhs/v-deo.html not many people like to use a big saw like this. Maybe its more precise to sneak up on the line than to land on it first time with a big saw. Thanks for watching.
You mentioned in the comments not to copy any of your work. Which is great never seen this carpentry before in my life, but are these original ideas or techniques passed through time?
I don't think he's trying to claim ownership of the ideas, but just to say he doesn't want to lead others astray: this is him doing it, not telling us how to!
Could some one answer me something please... Yes base on the videos i have seen, tenon should be right at the midle.. But all videos i been seen are two timber with the same size, so rules aply perfectly. But, what if the timber with the tenon is a 4 x 6, and the timber with the mortise is a 8 x 10 beam ??? The tenon wont be at the midle of the 8x10, i guess i must work with a 6" high draw as the timber should be flat.....Rules saying tusk is 1/4 of the thickness of the timber, in this case is one 1/4 of the 8x10 right ??? So the shoulder should be 2" deep right ?? Ill be very thankfull if some body could answer please...
Perfect! This is the joint I tried to make 5 years ago without having an idea what it was. Do you have any idea of the tensile strength of such a joint? I guess the wedge is the weakest link? Will it hold a two story building?
Francis Barnett Most refer to them as a "japanese saw" if i understand correctly. They are supposed to work very well for small cuts. They have a straight handle, and a 2 sided blade. Maybe you know this by now...
@@francisbarnett 2 year old post so you probably already know this but they're known as a Ryoba. Double side japanese pull-saw with rip teeth one side and cross cur the other. They come in various sizes ranging from huge for large carpentry work down to smaller one for cabinet making. I switched to one years ago and it's about the knky saw I ever use. 10 inch one will cut large tenon cheeks, small dovetails, and everything in between.
Hard to tell because of color, but is that treated wood? I don't see the perforations normally associated with treated wood, but if it is wear gloves. You don't want that infection.
Oh God man, I thought that looked like treated wood as well... I'm not all Doctor Safety or anything, personally violate a lot of typical rules, but breathing in that nasty stuff is brutal... don't do it!!! I love your videos though, no commentary necessary, or music. Your style is just right. Thanks and keep them coming!!! @@francisbarnett
+James O'sullivan I've seen the conversion type before, the drawback of using a chainsaw blade is they have to be perfectly sharpened as they can drift off the line and cut out of square, plus the kerf is maybe 8mm. I'm looking to get a 16" Makita beam saw. Thanks for your comments.
Hi Francis and everyone,I love you.WARNING,Dark days are coming to America and The World.Get out of Miami.REPENT of your sins and call on the Name of The LORD,JESUS CHRIST and you will be SAVED.JESUS is COMING.
These videos are great :) I need to do a fare bit of work in my 17th century house, I'm sure I will refer back to these when it comes to the roof :) Thank you ॐ
+The Wood Yogi many thanks.
Nice job, thanks for sharing. As a carpenter myself, I have always argued that the joist/beam is compromised in depth from the base of the tusk, its like notching out an 8x3" to a 6x3". This is why when the joint is structural, I always do the base of the two members the same as the top so that the whole beam is supported in its depth.
I remember doing this joint for my heritage carpentry exam at college many moons ago..nice job buddy..and a very happy new year to all.
Many thanks, Happy new year.
From what I have been taught, your tenon should be set out centred on the beam along the neutral axis, this way you are removing the minimum amount of wood that is actually working in the beam.On a 300 beam 150 centre, mark tenon 125/175 from top arris, the bearing shoulder below need only be 30 mm deep by 30mm back to the square shoulder, leaving plenty of support below.
Yes, mortise centre of support beam
Very nice! Was reading these joints were used for floor joists in basements and sub structures.
Great work, very instructive! I pick up a pointer or two on each video you make. Great video work as well! Mike
+mike schaefer Thanks Mike
I had to make one of these in college....great vid that brought back some memories....
All the same, but bad for me
Must be one hella of a job that you are practicing for. Good luck. thanks for sharing,
+Gareth Dirlam Its all engineered joists and metal web joists specified these days, its something I wanted to cut and video. Thanks for your comments Gareth.
If building regs will allow it, that’s how I’m going to join my floor joists around the staircase! If a flimsy tin joist hanger is ok then that’s got to pass!
Another work of art Francis! Thanks for sharing :-)
+Alex Howard Cheers Alex.
I would love to see a graphic, explaining the forces at play on the joint and how the tusk stops rotation, for that is what I think it is doing. Also explaining why the tusk should be on the top, bottom, left or right depending on the situation?
I love this type of content.
Thank You!
watched a few of your videos and subscribed and hit the notification bell you do fine work brother gave you a thumbs up as well
Love the way you work mate..
+Alex Donhou you're welcome
do you have plans for the your mobile drill press and hardware.I cant find plans
Why the angled cheek on the mortise? It's very cool, but what is the added benefit over a standard square shoulder?
Wow. That's 200-year joint if I've ever seen one. Kind of a random question - is there a reason more people don't make one side of the tenon with two straight cuts? (as opposed to making all those quarter inch cuts with a skill saw and hammering and chiseling away the waste)
watch my video ua-cam.com/video/1nfTS2TWEhs/v-deo.html not many people like to use a big saw like this. Maybe its more precise to sneak up on the line than to land on it first time with a big saw. Thanks for watching.
Thomas Head
Great work my friend thank you for sharing!
Thanks for watching
Please tell me you have a video on how to make a drill press jig?
+Padraig Lynch have a look through my older videos portable drill press, thanks for watching.
Happy New Year Mr. Barnett, may 2018 bring good wood works!
Thank You!
You mentioned in the comments not to copy any of your work. Which is great never seen this carpentry before in my life, but are these original ideas or techniques passed through time?
I don't think he's trying to claim ownership of the ideas, but just to say he doesn't want to lead others astray: this is him doing it, not telling us how to!
I see the tusk is on the edge of the wood, surly more robust if in the center? surrounded by other wood, rather than at an edge?
Could some one answer me something please...
Yes base on the videos i have seen, tenon should be right at the midle..
But all videos i been seen are two timber with the same size, so rules aply perfectly.
But, what if the timber with the tenon is a 4 x 6, and the timber with the mortise is a 8 x 10 beam ???
The tenon wont be at the midle of the 8x10, i guess i must work with a 6" high draw as the timber should be flat.....Rules saying tusk is 1/4 of the thickness of the timber, in this case is one 1/4 of the 8x10 right ??? So the shoulder should be 2" deep right ??
Ill be very thankfull if some body could answer please...
Спасибо. С Новым Годом! Некоторые операции проще фрезером делать наверно.
счастливый новый год, я хотел сохранить основные инструменты для этого видео, люди обычно жалуются, что я использую причудливые инструменты.
Perfect! This is the joint I tried to make 5 years ago without having an idea what it was. Do you have any idea of the tensile strength of such a joint? I guess the wedge is the weakest link? Will it hold a two story building?
A work of art!
very nice work
Thank You!
wonder where he bought his chisels at ?????? great job,,,, 👍👍👍
Another quality joint, very traditional!
Have you ever considered a sword saw??
+James O'sullivan sword saw!? What is this sword saw you speak of?
Francis Barnett Most refer to them as a "japanese saw" if i understand correctly. They are supposed to work very well for small cuts. They have a straight handle, and a 2 sided blade. Maybe you know this by now...
@@francisbarnett 2 year old post so you probably already know this but they're known as a Ryoba. Double side japanese pull-saw with rip teeth one side and cross cur the other. They come in various sizes ranging from huge for large carpentry work down to smaller one for cabinet making.
I switched to one years ago and it's about the knky saw I ever use. 10 inch one will cut large tenon cheeks, small dovetails, and everything in between.
Very nice work .
It’s a great joint!
No more video since? What a pity. 😞
I see that rules vary on this joint...i saw some where that the tenon should be at the midle of the piece, i see yours is at upper level of the piece.
You have a very cool name, to be named after a British Motorcycle
Hard to tell because of color, but is that treated wood? I don't see the perforations normally associated with treated wood, but if it is wear gloves. You don't want that infection.
+Ross Hollinger I think it is treated, your right gloves and masks should be worn, its just so hot when working with all the PPE. Thanks for watching.
Oh God man, I thought that looked like treated wood as well... I'm not all Doctor Safety or anything, personally violate a lot of typical rules, but breathing in that nasty stuff is brutal... don't do it!!! I love your videos though, no commentary necessary, or music. Your style is just right. Thanks and keep them coming!!! @@francisbarnett
Adding some good mortising chisels to your toolkit would be helpful, I think.
Ótimo trabalho! Thanks
Got a new subscriber.
+Thisthatandtheother Chan you're welcome
am I the only one who gets satisfaction?
What is the purpose of a tusk tenon?
Dam fine carpentry
+tboneterryd You're welcome.
Festool, take a look, id love one!
+James O'sullivan I've seen the conversion type before, the drawback of using a chainsaw blade is they have to be perfectly sharpened as they can drift off the line and cut out of square, plus the kerf is maybe 8mm. I'm looking to get a 16" Makita beam saw. Thanks for your comments.
Theres something oddly satisfying in watching a woodworker chisel..I wonder why....
It's satisfying because you aren't doing the hammering ;)
Doug Guest yeah I guess youre right
good job
Where is your square from?
+jaredc40 I got this a few years ago from Amazon, I wanted a metric one but the imperial one is fine, try Ebay.
Nice, thanks.
Nice.
Is this joint for floor joist?
Yes, this was how it was done before joist hangers.
Познавательно!
Большое спасибо
Francis Barnett с меня подписка!
i think you need a bit of slop in your pocket
Hi Francis and everyone,I love you.WARNING,Dark days are coming to America and The World.Get out of Miami.REPENT of your sins and call on the Name of The LORD,JESUS CHRIST and you will be SAVED.JESUS is COMING.
A little soap for the tight fits.
vaseline all day long
Más justo que un deo en el culo