I'm just going to say, I LIKE the agriculture sounds in the background. From the cows the other day to today's close pass from a one horsepower unit. Don't worry about editing them out.
Still fascinating watching you evolve the old Ford. I have never seen any plans or rendered computer generated designs. You just create from scratch and make it happen. Genius!
Matt, I enjoy watching yo work and how you make it look so damn easy!. Your welding makes me look like a rank amateur (I am definitely in that class!). Simple and logical break down steps make the processes easy to follow. You have a niche viewer group and I am hooked!. Thanks for sharing them all with us..
You should definitely try and make your own subframes and wishbones, it would be a really cool addition to the series, plus something to do whilst you're waiting for it to be blasted.
Especially enjoyed the creative and quick replacement of those splash panels. I myself can't see the worry of rust as it is made for fun and may end up a little "altered" from it long before rust would have it's way. I continue to like your ideas of Rehab and repair. AND, smiled when you broke out the spot welder. Jogging that seam and spot welding it was the best idea I can think of to avoid warping. And as always Matt, digging the mongrel and cheers brother!
Hey matt!! Thanks for making true hard graft content, I've been a big supporter since the very first episode of the transporter build!!! And btw what a good job you done it look like it came from the factory!!!!!?? And ive been hooked SINCE!!!! So thanks for the amazing content.... And am loving this build its very complex but simple at the same time (SORT OF YOU MAKE IT LOOK SIMPLE) KEEP UP THE AMAZING WORK!!!
This has to be one of VERY FEW channels that I read the comments... everyone has great ideas and the majority are constructive too, which helps. I agree that a complete custom subframe would be great, but I also see the other side of the argument. There’s no point taking an MX5 chassis and welding it to a 100e shell if you’re just going to bin the subframes, you might as well have just bought some tube and built your own chassis in that case. Keep it up Matt, it’s slowly coming together
Using the spot welder is a bang on technique. Buzzweld in Bristol sells a really good weld through primer that is zinc rich which helps resist rusting. Happy with it. I did get lucky and bought a load of spot welder arms and tips from scrappies for scrap value plus a little bit. Can't believe how much they cost new! The long reach ones great for floor pans and got the reverse one for wheel arch flanges. Think customers need to know just how bloody much all the kit needed costs, especially if you a one man band.
Blowing the dust off yourself was OK when I started in the trade, but later in a factory environment it became a serious health and safety issue! Great stuff yet again, stay safe!
Joggler that's a handy tool, I have a pair of those, very handy, also edge flattener and hole punch, bought them years ago from a neighbouring garage owner, who no longer had a use for them, you're doing a nice job there!.
I’d really enjoy watching you put those subframes and swing arms into a fixture , then build your own adjustable tubular jobs with rose joints ! You can do it .
Cool, got back from the garage where i got a fair bit done on one of my bikes im restoring and a mongrel episode is waiting..perfect..off to the blasters soon!
A few specialist MX5 breakers around.... Best bet with the rear is junk the lot and buy a complete serviceable rear end from one of them (check if it has LSD, and which one). Those long bolts are notorious for seizing, so get a guarantee that the bolts come out freely... New bush kit, jobs a goodun...
Yeah the fun of building car's. Kinda the gift that just keeps giving. And all any of us can do is stay focused on the prize of driving that bad boy when it's done😉😊👍👍
You've shown several times that your weldings definitely up to scratch, So why not build yourself some adjustable tubular wishbones? As it's going to be a track car you could kill two birds with one stone and use rose joints all round to remove any shift in geometry while cornering.
@@anthonyfieldthetrollbuster9930 . You would be surprised how much the stamped steel sub frames weigh. Alot of the tubular k frames and control arms are heavier than the stock components they replace.
It would be weeks of work for no real gain, all the adjustable rose jointed arms can be bought off the shelf which was a big factor in using the mx5 floor. I'm sure you will get to see something like that in future builds though. Cheers
@@Urchfab I know tubular wishbones are available...... But have you seen the bloody price?!?!?! :o I was thinking you could just* weld up a reasonably simple jig around the important mounting points on the original arms, Bolt the mounting plates and spherical bearings onto the jig, then cut up and bend some tube to fill the gaps between them. Could be worth doing purely so that once you've race proven them on the Mongrel you could kick out a few sets for the MK1 and 2 MX5 track car owners. As a full set of new tubular wishbones usually go for over 700 quid, A 500 or 600 quid set could be a reasonable earner for when (Or should that be "if") you have quiet periods. (* Isn't "Just" such an easy word to drop into a sentence despite it being about something that could mean a few days work? LOL !)
Hey, long time viewer, first time reacting. First off, thanks for ur contribution to the community and the great work you have been doing, really enjoy watching it and i often find myself stealing ideas. As i was watching you start making up the rear part, the part under the boot lid (where the bumper would go) i had a brainfart. You have to decide if it smells nice, but how about integrating a full metal rear difuser with an incorporated exhaust ? Kind of blending the modern idea of a difuser into an old body shell, to me at least, corresponds pretty good to a miata with an e100 body on top ? Anyways, greetings from Belgium !
Gas & Ass. You're a legend - so talented. I reckon your channel will rocket soon. I'd like to bring you my P6 for metal repairs but I know you hate rust. Keep rockin.
Wow fantastic i never av thought of using a spot welder on a joddled joint i always weld em and cool with air takes ages keep the up loads coming alway look forward too the best channel on here
You have done a good job with the patch panel and i know some resto shops who do exactly that. The only thing i would do differently is roll in a bit of crown to mimic the crown in the original panel. Sounds like some horses are getting restless in the mazda engine too @ 9:10.
Hahaha barking spider at the end there. I agree with others. With your ability build your own subframes and suspension. Would save weight be stronger and last much longer! Also it would allow you to use a different rear end if you wanted.
I liked when you brought out your flanging tool (at least that is what I call it). It has to be the most useful sheet metal tool I have next to body hammers. I was also interested to see you using a spot welder. I have been thinking about buying one of these when my local Harbor Freight store has a sale on them. They look to be very useful. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the advice to joggle the seam to avoid warping the fender, Very good advice. I am going to also dolly as I go to keep warping under control. Damn I wish I had the advantage of your videos before starting work on my old 2CV!
I have nasty flashbacks each time I see a cutting disc being used without a guard - I have a nasty scar from about 25 years ago using a mate's grinder and cutoff wheel without a guard. Call me 'Mr. over-cautious' - but better to be safe than sorry - especially if a disc disintegrates at such high speed. Neato project and always great to watch the progress - stay warm in your UK Winter (HA - 39.0C here in Melbourne the other day - I will bottle some of it and send to you).
With the brakes, what about putting the front calipers and rotors on the rear and using later model front rotors and four spot calipers from an RX7 or RX8. Just a though.
I actually have a rear subframe with all the wish bones in fairly good nick, it's from a MK1 though so I'm not 100% it's the same but it looks identical.
A few people said you could fabricate those parts you need from tube. That’d be cool you could lose some mass and upgrade it at the same time. Not sure how easy it would be to do in practice, it’s worth a thought.
Matt, ive got access to shit loads of my spares, subframes, arms, brakes etc. Let me know if you want anything and I'll go see. I'm the same fella that messaged you on Facebook about the electric central heating 👍🏼
Fab skills second to none Matt....be proud young man.....and thankful of the skills you have. P.S. still trying to get some suitable steel to make a large dice......
The rear arches seem a bit flappy without the rolled arch on. Are you going to add a roll before fitting the glass fibre arches or will they be firm enough? Great work btw
Matt, silly question; if you formed the joggle into the repair panel, rather than on the mail quarter panel, wouldn't that "reverse" the lap joint and reduce the effect of creating a moisture trap; or does the stiffness and shape of the repair panel , make it non viable? Ok; it is still the same situation inside the wheel well, but you could lay seam sealer and fibreglass filler over the joint and get a more waterproof joint.
Jogglin' will make the receiving panel stronger and it'll be easier to replace after a bit of track racing kiss kiss. How many degrees is a wheet angle but?
Great work as usual Matt. What grade flap disc do you use or recommend for knocking back/dressing welds? Yours seem to come out really smooth but can't see what discs you use. Thanks.
You can’t beat I bit of Sunday Urch
I'm just going to say, I LIKE the agriculture sounds in the background. From the cows the other day to today's close pass from a one horsepower unit. Don't worry about editing them out.
Still fascinating watching you evolve the old Ford. I have never seen any plans or rendered computer generated designs. You just create from scratch and make it happen. Genius!
Christopher Ward Masterplan must be kept secret in his yed lol 😂
adybooboo1 however he does what he does, he’s half engineer half sculptor. He thinks it, then he makes it... it’s cool!
Matt, I enjoy watching yo work and how you make it look so damn easy!. Your welding makes me look like a rank amateur (I am definitely in that class!). Simple and logical break down steps make the processes easy to follow. You have a niche viewer group and I am hooked!. Thanks for sharing them all with us..
As usual top notch work from Matt at urchfab
You should definitely try and make your own subframes and wishbones, it would be a really cool addition to the series, plus something to do whilst you're waiting for it to be blasted.
Too much extra work for me Bud.
Especially enjoyed the creative and quick replacement of those splash panels. I myself can't see the worry of rust as it is made for fun and may end up a little "altered" from it long before rust would have it's way.
I continue to like your ideas of Rehab and repair. AND, smiled when you broke out the spot welder. Jogging that seam and spot welding it was the best idea I can think of to avoid warping.
And as always Matt, digging the mongrel and cheers brother!
Cheers, I'm gonna try my best not to alter this one to much. I probably shouldn't have said that.
came for the 100e,,, stayed for the fab work... looking for more. keep up the great work! following in USA
Hey matt!! Thanks for making true hard graft content, I've been a big supporter since the very first episode of the transporter build!!! And btw what a good job you done it look like it came from the factory!!!!!?? And ive been hooked SINCE!!!! So thanks for the amazing content.... And am loving this build its very complex but simple at the same time (SORT OF YOU MAKE IT LOOK SIMPLE) KEEP UP THE AMAZING WORK!!!
This has to be one of VERY FEW channels that I read the comments... everyone has great ideas and the majority are constructive too, which helps.
I agree that a complete custom subframe would be great, but I also see the other side of the argument. There’s no point taking an MX5 chassis and welding it to a 100e shell if you’re just going to bin the subframes, you might as well have just bought some tube and built your own chassis in that case.
Keep it up Matt, it’s slowly coming together
Using the spot welder is a bang on technique. Buzzweld in Bristol sells a really good weld through primer that is zinc rich which helps resist rusting. Happy with it. I did get lucky and bought a load of spot welder arms and tips from scrappies for scrap value plus a little bit. Can't believe how much they cost new! The long reach ones great for floor pans and got the reverse one for wheel arch flanges. Think customers need to know just how bloody much all the kit needed costs, especially if you a one man band.
"mono-posto miata" here, I thinks a lot of people in this comment section have never attempted something like this. Good work Urchfab!
You are evolving my friend! you are getting or letting your humor come out and it is just funny.
Blowing the dust off yourself was OK when I started in the trade, but later in a factory environment it became a serious health and safety issue! Great stuff yet again, stay safe!
When you are self employed, you gotta get on. Elf and SafeTee is for wimps!!
Joggler that's a handy tool, I have a pair of those, very handy, also edge flattener and hole punch, bought them years ago from a neighbouring garage owner, who no longer had a use for them, you're doing a nice job there!.
I’d really enjoy watching you put those subframes and swing arms into a fixture , then build your own adjustable tubular jobs with rose joints !
You can do it .
I'm sure you would but unfortunately for you I cant be arsed with that.
Keep up the amazing work . Love your videos.
Excellent standard of work. The project is coming together great. Looking forward to the next piece. 👌
Every video liked, every video commented, subscribed and sharing with mates. This is a great build!
Cool, got back from the garage where i got a fair bit done on one of my bikes im restoring and a mongrel episode is waiting..perfect..off to the blasters soon!
I am learning a lot from your work. Glad to see you are adding to your subscription. Thank you
You can apply seal kit whith a brush on the inside over the gap and put some undercoat on it
You should turn that bottom bit into a diffuser type deal Matt. Would look the bollocks.
Nah I'm not into those mate.
@@Urchfab ah fair enough Matt. Looking forward to seeing it progress. Keep up the good work.
A few specialist MX5 breakers around.... Best bet with the rear is junk the lot and buy a complete serviceable rear end from one of them (check if it has LSD, and which one). Those long bolts are notorious for seizing, so get a guarantee that the bolts come out freely... New bush kit, jobs a goodun...
love your dry humour .
Yeah the fun of building car's. Kinda the gift that just keeps giving.
And all any of us can do is stay focused on the prize of driving that bad boy when it's done😉😊👍👍
Think at 9:08 some bloke walked past banging 2 coconut shells together
What? Ridden on a horse? You've got two empty halves of coconut and you're bangin' 'em together ! XD
Haha. Love the monte python reference.
Probably looking for a grail or something.
He is working as a farrier when the camera is off.
Was it sir Urchalot?
You've shown several times that your weldings definitely up to scratch, So why not build yourself some adjustable tubular wishbones? As it's going to be a track car you could kill two birds with one stone and use rose joints all round to remove any shift in geometry while cornering.
Reman1975 Yes totally agree matts definitely up to engineering some wibbily wobbly bits to turn the odd corners
I'd like to see a tubular subframe fabricated too. Shed some weight.
@@anthonyfieldthetrollbuster9930 . You would be surprised how much the stamped steel sub frames weigh. Alot of the tubular k frames and control arms are heavier than the stock components they replace.
It would be weeks of work for no real gain, all the adjustable rose jointed arms can be bought off the shelf which was a big factor in using the mx5 floor. I'm sure you will get to see something like that in future builds though. Cheers
@@Urchfab I know tubular wishbones are available...... But have you seen the bloody price?!?!?! :o
I was thinking you could just* weld up a reasonably simple jig around the important mounting points on the original arms, Bolt the mounting plates and spherical bearings onto the jig, then cut up and bend some tube to fill the gaps between them. Could be worth doing purely so that once you've race proven them on the Mongrel you could kick out a few sets for the MK1 and 2 MX5 track car owners. As a full set of new tubular wishbones usually go for over 700 quid, A 500 or 600 quid set could be a reasonable earner for when (Or should that be "if") you have quiet periods.
(* Isn't "Just" such an easy word to drop into a sentence despite it being about something that could mean a few days work? LOL !)
Great stuff, A nice video to round Sunday off 👍
This is one hell of a big job , brave thing to take on hope someone can come up with all the bits needed. Surprised to see a Mazda rust so much.
Getting some good numbers on the videos, Thumbs up!
As usual a quality episode. Keep up the good work sir
Brilliant Matt
Hey, long time viewer, first time reacting. First off, thanks for ur contribution to the community and the great work you have been doing, really enjoy watching it and i often find myself stealing ideas. As i was watching you start making up the rear part, the part under the boot lid (where the bumper would go) i had a brainfart. You have to decide if it smells nice, but how about integrating a full metal rear difuser with an incorporated exhaust ? Kind of blending the modern idea of a difuser into an old body shell, to me at least, corresponds pretty good to a miata with an e100 body on top ?
Anyways, greetings from Belgium !
Gas & Ass. You're a legend - so talented. I reckon your channel will rocket soon. I'd like to bring you my P6 for metal repairs but I know you hate rust. Keep rockin.
Wow fantastic i never av thought of using a spot welder on a joddled joint i always weld em and cool with air takes ages keep the up loads coming alway look forward too the best channel on here
Simply had to watch this before going to bed even though I have to be up at 4am
Awesome as usual, you don’t need any advice from me, you know what you are doing already.
Have a go at making your own subframe.
Good work as usual Matt. You ran out of gas? I thought I heard some floating around.
You have done a good job with the patch panel and i know some resto shops who do exactly that. The only thing i would do differently is roll in a bit of crown to mimic the crown in the original panel. Sounds like some horses are getting restless in the mazda engine too @ 9:10.
Just brilliant, compulsive viewing!
Hahaha barking spider at the end there.
I agree with others. With your ability build your own subframes and suspension. Would save weight be stronger and last much longer!
Also it would allow you to use a different rear end if you wanted.
I liked when you brought out your flanging tool (at least that is what I call it). It has to be the most useful sheet metal tool I have next to body hammers. I was also interested to see you using a spot welder. I have been thinking about buying one of these when my local Harbor Freight store has a sale on them. They look to be very useful. Thanks for posting.
great job Matt. coming along very nicely.
Must get one of those 'electric' Dinging Hammers.... So quick!
Great update 👍🏻
Nice job. More complete all the time.
make a new rear subframe from tubes. Frame will be lighter and more durable.
I got enough on here without adding extra work, I might of done that a few years back though.
Shops got barking spiders. Silent but deadly killers.
Yesss just in time before bedtime! Thanks for making my sunday complete 🤟👊
Suppose I better go asleep now as I've ran out of mongrel content to watch
Shame about running out of gas, you did some good work. ---- No horsing around.
You could almost make a diffuser to fit in the gap once that plate is fully welded and cut off straight 👌
Ematia100, panels from the miata doorskins and other panels no good for gaps brilliant build
Thanks for the advice to joggle the seam to avoid warping the fender, Very good advice. I am going to also dolly as I go to keep warping under control. Damn I wish I had the advantage of your videos before starting work on my old 2CV!
Great work as always 🙂
I have nasty flashbacks each time I see a cutting disc being used without a guard - I have a nasty scar from about 25 years ago using a mate's grinder and cutoff wheel without a guard. Call me 'Mr. over-cautious' - but better to be safe than sorry - especially if a disc disintegrates at such high speed. Neato project and always great to watch the progress - stay warm in your UK Winter (HA - 39.0C here in Melbourne the other day - I will bottle some of it and send to you).
With the brakes, what about putting the front calipers and rotors on the rear and using later model front rotors and four spot calipers from an RX7 or RX8. Just a though.
I actually have a rear subframe with all the wish bones in fairly good nick, it's from a MK1 though so I'm not 100% it's the same but it looks identical.
I think they are different mate.
A few people said you could fabricate those parts you need from tube. That’d be cool you could lose some mass and upgrade it at the same time. Not sure how easy it would be to do in practice, it’s worth a thought.
I know it's time but I would make new control arms and subframe using the rusty junk as a template. You could even make them adjustable if necessary.
Looking great.
you make it look easy
God, I love this channel. 👍🏻
So blasting soon 😍😍😍
Now THAT'S how you bleep profanity! Lmao!
The Generous Degenerate
And he just finished saying he was out of gas. 🤦♂️
Like a glove
Nice work Matt, it's looking good. It's a shame about the subframe. More work, but that's life with a build. Cheers
“I’m all ‘bout the speed”......... no kidding 👍
Matt, ive got access to shit loads of my spares, subframes, arms, brakes etc. Let me know if you want anything and I'll go see. I'm the same fella that messaged you on Facebook about the electric central heating 👍🏼
You paint and seal the joints properly and rust will not be a problem, it's not gonna be a daily driver afer all is it? Nice work.
Nice job !
I sense a custom rear diff hanger and tubular suspension arms are on the horizon...
Love your hammer work. You are a body man.
You should title this build the MX100e
Fab skills second to none Matt....be proud young man.....and thankful of the skills you have. P.S. still trying to get some suitable steel to make a large dice......
9:05 was that the queen riding past?
At the end of the day, the mudguards have been cut and will have flares riveted on so this is good way of repair
The rear arches seem a bit flappy without the rolled arch on. Are you going to add a roll before fitting the glass fibre arches or will they be firm enough?
Great work btw
Nice video. Beautiful job. : )
You should introduce us to the COW.CAT wants a drink! MOOOOOOOOO!
Matt, silly question; if you formed the joggle into the repair panel, rather than on the mail quarter panel, wouldn't that "reverse" the lap joint and reduce the effect of creating a moisture trap; or does the stiffness and shape of the repair panel , make it non viable? Ok; it is still the same situation inside the wheel well, but you could lay seam sealer and fibreglass filler over the joint and get a more waterproof joint.
Jogglin' will make the receiving panel stronger and it'll be easier to replace after a bit of track racing kiss kiss.
How many degrees is a wheet angle but?
Great work as usual Matt. What grade flap disc do you use or recommend for knocking back/dressing welds? Yours seem to come out really smooth but can't see what discs you use. Thanks.
I used to buff n polish my hammer n dollys (no innuendo ment) worth doing when ya have a minute
Do you have a merch site loving the hoody
The horse walking by reminds me of Arthur Morgan
looking good mate shame about the gas but do know it doent last
09:15 - ofcourse the horse!
Oooo yeah. commented before I watched it.
All about the speed. Too right. Speed doesn't kill, it's the wall you hit when you over correct on the back lanes that does.
@Urchfab What are your settings for butt welding? I have a floor section to sort on my '60 VW which I want to get looking as best I can.
Hey man, do you have a link for the rear quarter panel rear pieces? Im in need of one myself 👍
It looks like comparing the two vehicles, the Prefect was possibly in better condition when you consider it's age.
Could you link some of the tools you use. Like the notcher.
I hear cow’s and horses in the background, are you in the 1800’s? 😂
He is working in an old cow shed
Prob renting off a farmer and the new cow shed is close by with the rest of the farm
punkloader so cows and horses only existed in the 1800’s then? There’s your lol
PritchyTurbo2000 - Yupp only in the 1800’s 😁
Hi what spot welder are you using please
Could've built some sort of diffuser for the rear end there.
Matt what joggler/edge setter do you use?
Please make your own arms for the front and rear!
You weren't completely out of gas.....