For several years now I have been installing a fresh-air return on all hood vents and large bath fans. The homes I build and remodel always beat code (latest remodel hit a 1.3ACH 50, code on Long Island is 3ACH.) I use a simple filter pan and negative pressure switch/relay that opens a gasketed damper. Thank you for broadcasting the importance of this detail. I have seen none of my peers install this. They don't understand that the negative pressure these fans induce is unhealthy in newer, tighter homes.
On the front line of performance. It isn't always pretty but inspiring seeing you getting it done. And thanks so much for the education. Makeup air methods and equipment, and ventilation is definitely something I need to learn more about.
If you haven't done it already I would recommend using some spray foam around the concrete hole that will seal the air from your vent and one thing to consider since you said it was being sucked in from a carport you want to consider maybe exhaust fumes from a running vehicle might get also sucked in I don't know just a thought
Yes to the sealant, though be careful about water getting in, it’s basically a sponge. And the carport is wide open, plus my parents know not to run the car in there- hard to do that while there cooking anyhow.
@@HomePerformance :) i have to install a make-up air kit to my home ,, its a new home and I had a 400cfm hood installed , the inspector said i am required to add makeup air before final inspection can be approved... I got a braun kit on ebay and need to figure out the best place where to bring the air in from outside..
Excellent work and this is what 99% of homes miss. I am planning to incorporate makeup air in kitchen and bathrooms this summer. Question: can we bring the makeup air beside or behind the cooktop, say a vent in the backsplash area behind the cooktop? In this way the floor temperature might not be affected and should be more effective .
Hey Squeek, I'd actually avoid bringing it all up the rear of the cooktop, out of caution for potentially pushing the cooking gases out the front of the hood.
Corbett as an energy auditor I have learned from you, thank you. Why not point up that nasty concrete or foam the duct in place? In the N.East we would foam that foundation and band to (R-21) and seal the poly to the wall with the foam (closed cell). Keep up the good work.
Thanks for following, Dusty- for sure there are much prettier ways to do this, I'd give clients the option if I were doing this as a job, but since neither my dad or I care too much, and since I'm not a contractor who has mortar or spray foam on hand all the time, we're skipping it.
I would like to see more passive make-up air methods for less demanding situations such as this house; have you explored this? For example, a 400-cfm exhaust through an 8" duct may only require a 200-sq in (14X14) passive make-up air hole. If there is a vented attic, it would be possible to place a vent with filter in the kitchen ceiling, which could be connected to a motorised square damper sitting atop a 14X14 duct/curb in the attic space. So the entire assembly would be 14X14X14, with the make-up air pulling directly from the vented attic -- no forced air. The same applies to a vented crawl space.
With how leaky that house is a powered make-up air ventilator is a great Idea. It would reduce the pressure drop in the rest of the house, which should make that water heater a bit safer.
If the issue is possible backdraft, wouldn't it make more sense to activate the fresh air valve from the HW heater (and/or furnace) rather than the range hood (maybe there is a pressure sensing switch I missed). The range hood fan should work just fine w/o makeup air or ductwork in this situation. Fresh air dedicated to the range hood is usually only required for commercial units (and I've seen some installed in residences).
Would it make sense to connect the exhaust and intake to and ERV/HRV ? Could it solve the problem of the frigid air in the winter and hot humid air in the summer?
No, it wouldn’t be a good idea- my house is bigger than this one, and only needs 150 cfm ERV, which would be overpowered by either the supply or exhaust on this, and the grease would choke it to death.
What about CO coming from the carport? So you will show a final of this? Thanks. I am in the middle of a gut/energy retrofit and need to do makeup air, so I really appreciate you sharing this information.
Thanks for following- if it was a garage, absolutely a concern. Open carport, not so much. More exhaust fumes in a pickup line at school. Yes, we’ll follow up for you.
I'm currently building a new house in Canada. I'm installing a broan automatic air damper synced with the range hood. I'm going to add an inline filter as well. Should I install the register behind/under the electric range? Or add a preheat and have the register open in the kitchen? Does the preheat need to have a drain line? Do you get any moisture build up under or around the range?
Terry, in Canada I would consider a bunch of cold-weathee concerns carefully- we don’t have to do that down here. But I bet you worry about outdoor humidity less, on the other hand. It really depends on the whole system at work in your home, but all you need to do is think thru all the options and consequences for the 4 elements (see our 4-3-2-1 approach).
First thing I thought building a house from scratch and only giving myself 18 inches to 24 inches crawlspace. 4’ would’ve been comfortable but then why stop there 8’10‘ deep foundation years later come back and dig it out and you have a whole Nother floor I do remember you have a large boulder to deal with when they were digging
For several years now I have been installing a fresh-air return on all hood vents and large bath fans. The homes I build and remodel always beat code (latest remodel hit a 1.3ACH 50, code on Long Island is 3ACH.) I use a simple filter pan and negative pressure switch/relay that opens a gasketed damper. Thank you for broadcasting the importance of this detail. I have seen none of my peers install this. They don't understand that the negative pressure these fans induce is unhealthy in newer, tighter homes.
Hey, great to hear the work you’re doing, Philip! You’d find a friend for sure in Frank Gallina, one of my Masterminds who’s up on Long Island too!
Thank you for showing the reality and your process.
On the front line of performance. It isn't always pretty but inspiring seeing you getting it done. And thanks so much for the education. Makeup air methods and equipment, and ventilation is definitely something I need to learn more about.
Thanks for watching, my friend. My daughter has decided your hat is her favorite now- it’s permanently dialled wayyyy tight.
Adding the makeup air duct from under and behind the range, so this is helpful and informative. I know it can be done now. Thank you
Excellent, happy to help!
If you haven't done it already I would recommend using some spray foam around the concrete hole that will seal the air from your vent and one thing to consider since you said it was being sucked in from a carport you want to consider maybe exhaust fumes from a running vehicle might get also sucked in I don't know just a thought
Yes to the sealant, though be careful about water getting in, it’s basically a sponge. And the carport is wide open, plus my parents know not to run the car in there- hard to do that while there cooking anyhow.
@@HomePerformance :) i have to install a make-up air kit to my home ,, its a new home and I had a 400cfm hood installed , the inspector said i am required to add makeup air before final inspection can be approved...
I got a braun kit on ebay and need to figure out the best place where to bring the air in from outside..
Best place is up high, if possible- less bugs that way
Excellent work and this is what 99% of homes miss. I am planning to incorporate makeup air in kitchen and bathrooms this summer. Question: can we bring the makeup air beside or behind the cooktop, say a vent in the backsplash area behind the cooktop? In this way the floor temperature might not be affected and should be more effective .
Hey Squeek, I'd actually avoid bringing it all up the rear of the cooktop, out of caution for potentially pushing the cooking gases out the front of the hood.
Corbett as an energy auditor I have learned from you, thank you. Why not point up that nasty concrete or foam the duct in place? In the N.East we would foam that foundation and band to (R-21) and seal the poly to the wall with the foam (closed cell). Keep up the good work.
Thanks for following, Dusty- for sure there are much prettier ways to do this, I'd give clients the option if I were doing this as a job, but since neither my dad or I care too much, and since I'm not a contractor who has mortar or spray foam on hand all the time, we're skipping it.
I would like to see more passive make-up air methods for less demanding situations such as this house; have you explored this? For example, a 400-cfm exhaust through an 8" duct may only require a 200-sq in (14X14) passive make-up air hole. If there is a vented attic, it would be possible to place a vent with filter in the kitchen ceiling, which could be connected to a motorised square damper sitting atop a 14X14 duct/curb in the attic space. So the entire assembly would be 14X14X14, with the make-up air pulling directly from the vented attic -- no forced air. The same applies to a vented crawl space.
With how leaky that house is a powered make-up air ventilator is a great Idea. It would reduce the pressure drop in the rest of the house, which should make that water heater a bit safer.
👍🏽👍🏽
10:07 Could you seal it by spray foaming the cavity?
Could, but it would need to be 2-part, closed cell foam since it’s below grade and could have moisture issues. I don’t keep that stuff on hand.
If the issue is possible backdraft, wouldn't it make more sense to activate the fresh air valve from the HW heater (and/or furnace) rather than the range hood (maybe there is a pressure sensing switch I missed). The range hood fan should work just fine w/o makeup air or ductwork in this situation. Fresh air dedicated to the range hood is usually only required for commercial units (and I've seen some installed in residences).
Would it make sense to connect the exhaust and intake to and ERV/HRV ? Could it solve the problem of the frigid air in the winter and hot humid air in the summer?
No, it wouldn’t be a good idea- my house is bigger than this one, and only needs 150 cfm ERV, which would be overpowered by either the supply or exhaust on this, and the grease would choke it to death.
What about CO coming from the carport? So you will show a final of this? Thanks. I am in the middle of a gut/energy retrofit and need to do makeup air, so I really appreciate you sharing this information.
Thanks for following- if it was a garage, absolutely a concern. Open carport, not so much. More exhaust fumes in a pickup line at school. Yes, we’ll follow up for you.
So that is just a passive air supply?
Is that considered acceptable code wise?
Hey Mike- yep, totally works in code and real life. Broan has a calculator to size it, watch this:
ua-cam.com/video/CSmwDGxtlHU/v-deo.html
How did this turn out? Have you made a follow up video?
It’s great. Vid id on my list, but don’t hold your breath Lane ;)
I'm currently building a new house in Canada. I'm installing a broan automatic air damper synced with the range hood. I'm going to add an inline filter as well.
Should I install the register behind/under the electric range? Or add a preheat and have the register open in the kitchen? Does the preheat need to have a drain line? Do you get any moisture build up under or around the range?
Terry, in Canada I would consider a bunch of cold-weathee concerns carefully- we don’t have to do that down here. But I bet you worry about outdoor humidity less, on the other hand. It really depends on the whole system at work in your home, but all you need to do is think thru all the options and consequences for the 4 elements (see our 4-3-2-1 approach).
First thing I thought building a house from scratch and only giving myself 18 inches to 24 inches crawlspace.
4’ would’ve been comfortable but then why stop there 8’10‘ deep foundation years later come back and dig it out and you have a whole Nother floor
I do remember you have a large boulder to deal with when they were digging
T, this is NOT the house I built. This is a 1950’s ranch my parents live in nearby.
@@HomePerformance Oh yeah Driving and watching your video then pay full attention until now you mentioned it
😎👍🏽