Camera Settings for Night Photography | Night Photography Series
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- Gabriel Biderman will be at this year’s B&H Bild Expo happening September 6 and 7 at the Javits center in NYC. Learn more and RSVP: www.bildexpo.com
Photographer Gabe Biderman shares some of his tips for setting up your camera for nighttime photography. Although most modern digital cameras do a decent job in Auto mode, Gabe stresses that you really want to choose manual mode to be able to properly adjust ISOs, apertures and shutter speeds for ultimate control. This is a very insightful video that provides some detailed best practices for how to get the most out of your camera’s features when shooting at night.
Check out the rest of our Night Photography Series:
- How to Photograph Stars: bhpho.to/32dg9rV
- Best Cameras for Night Photography: • Best Cameras for Night...
- How to Photograph Star Trails: • How to Photograph Star...
- How to Light Paint: • How to Light Paint | N...
- How to Light Write: • How to Create AMAZING ...
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#bhphoto #lowlightphotography #nightphotographytips - Наука та технологія
Haven't been hooked by a photo guru this much 😆 I like that he doesn't tell you what you should do and what not, but rather advises you to be creative in freely making choices and finding out what best fits your preference.
I like how you speak to the audience, us. Clear, concise, and well articulated. Nice job.
Thanks for your comment.
I really like your direct, fast paced presentations.
An excellent presentation and content! Thank you!
Really great video and Gabe is an incredible communicator. Thank you
Thank you! I really learned a lot~
I really enjoyed this, thank you
Glad you enjoyed the video.
You were so helpful. Thanks so much!!! Im doing night shooting over the Potomac River.
I like the way you explained how a blurry light can be turned into starlights by upping the F
God Bless You sir, very informative...
First time watching, immediate subscribe, like and bell button!!! I like the way you do your job! Very nice thank you !!!
straight to the point, that's how I like them vids. Thank you very much : )
Thanks for tuning in.
Hats off! Educating!
Thank you!
Great tips......concise and specific information, along with great examples and explanations. Well done!
Glad you enjoyed.
Thanks, Gabe...........I always enjoy your presentations.
Thanks for watching.
Awesome explanation!! Congratulations!
Great video!
Thanks for this.... i plan on shooting a lot more night shots this summer.
Enjoy!
Outstanding, I've always wondered how to show the star trails, blending!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I learned quite a bit.
Great!
Merci, très interressant
Excellent video, very well explained. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed.
At 12:13, image of suspension bridge, the settings say: aperture 1.0, shutter 30 seconds and ISO 250. Could the aperture really be f10 not 1? It would seem to me that at the settings given the image would be completely white. Thanks!
Just want to say thank you for a great video. I was on a shoot on Friday and got some great shots using your advice. Much appreciated.
Glad to hear this! Thanks for watching.
Outstanding Thank You.
Thanks for watching!
Τέλειο-Perfect!!!!!
well done
That's a well-done video and great information for people new to night photography. I like how you showed the different results by varying the shutter speed and aperture. By the way, your next video could be about sensor cleaning to get rid of the big dust bunnies that show up on the small aperture shots!
Thanks for your comment.
New setting in my Camera😁😊🙏😂,, thanks sir
Awesome video! Gabe, you are very, very good at explaining things in a well-paced, articulate manner. Thank you!
I do not shoot with Sony, and never really plan to, but something that caught my attention is that early in the video the "blinkies" meant places where the shadows had lost detail, but later in the video areas that were blown out highlights from the street light. I guess that's a settings choice to go either way?
On the Sony Alpha α7 III Mirrorless Digital Camera, the *[DISP]* (Display) button has the ability to alter what is shown on the camera's LCD screen or in the viewfinder when shooting or during playback. Pressing the *[DISP]* button can change the view and while the histogram is displayed, it can also show an exposure warning. If the image has an overexposed area (like the bright lights in the image) or an underexposed area (like the deep shadows without detail) in the image, the corresponding section will blink on the histogram display. This is why when the image was underexposed and the shadows had no detail, the left side of the histogram blinked as a warning, and conversely, when the image was overexposed and there was a bright light source that showed no detail, the right side of the histogram blinked as an exposure warning.
@@BandH Thanks!
Thanks... It was very helpful for us beginners... You explained all the thoughts that get into the settings so well... Hope to see more videos like this...
Glad you enjoyed the video!
Thanks for a great video, really informative and well paced, good job!
Thanks for watching!
The number of "spikes" on a light source depends upon the number of blades in the aperture of the camera. It occurs because the aperture is not a perfect circle, but a polygon. At narrow apertures, you start getting diffraction effects, which cause the spikes.
You change aperture from 2.8 to 5.6. I always thought i am suppose to open it wide as you can for low light situations. Can you explain to me, why that was done. Thanks
Reason you usually go as wide open as you can is that you usually don't have enough light in the dark. He had enough light with street lights and other elements that he could go down to 5.6 and lower ISO for cleaner image.
where are you from sir ...my god bless you ...i like the weather that you were sitting on the video ...
so which mode you had it on i was told to put it on tv mode drop the iso to 100 and have a faster shutter speed so i want to get my night time photography down pack then sooner or later i will get a much better camera. i have a old canon camera from 2006 and it's a 10.1 mega pixel camera so you know i want a better mega pixel camera later on but i need some help
Manual mode is the recommended shooting mode for night time photography shooting. Manual *[M]* mode allows you to manually set the ISO, aperture, and shutter speed based upon the photographic and lighting situation currently in front of your camera. Time is a big component of night photography, and is often considered the most creative component of the three exposure variables. However, while adjusting time using the Shutter Priority *[S]* or Time Value *[Tv]* mode is easier as it allows the camera to adjust the aperture and ISO for you, it is better to use full Manual mode to take full control over the creative exposure decisions, which would include the aperture and ISO settings. Also, some brand cameras will not allow you to access the *[BULB]* mode for long exposure photography unless the camera is in Manual *[M]* mode.
@@BandH so it's better to take night pictures in manual mode okay then thanks i will learn that. which is a better lense to buy? i'm going to purchase 2 cameras so in total i will have 3 or 4 cameras depends how i feel lol. i want to buy the canonsl1 and sl2 and i already have the canon 400d and i might snatch the 450d or 500d depends if i can catch them on a great deal
Hi Gabe. I have a question you may know the answer to. I know you can get red eye photographing people and such. But my question is can the IR sensor beam digital cameras use, or some do, reflect from an animals eye and cause red eye shine?
Thanks Ian, animals actually get "Green Eye" because their eyes have a "night vision" enabling membrane over the eyes that protect the blood vessel rich retina and instead reflect back the chemical makeup of the membrane - green, white, yellow, white, etc. Same principles apply to avoid Red or "Green Eye" - get the flash off axis from and the camera should be on a different level than the pet's eye.
Hi Gabe. Thanks for taking the time to read and reply. I know about eye shine, it does come in various colours including blue..The reason i ask, and i could have explained better to be honest, is that on a few occasions i've seen red eye shine when there doesn't seem to be enough of a light source to reflect..A couple of times i've been scanning with the camera as i do at times because sometimes a good shot presents itself. The camera uses IR for auto focus and that's what i wondered about. Is it the ir reflecting? But i wouldn't think IR would do that. So i thought i'd ask someone like yourself with more knowledge than perhaps i have, even if it eliminates that possibility. At times there might be enough moon light but at other times not. Obviously i'm not in complete darkness but i like to stay as long as the camera can see. Sometimes i stay into darkness just because i like being there, always have a torch and headlight with me. Some good moon shots/sun sets are often worth staying for. Sometimes i camp so i get that first light as the sun rises. I'm not a pro or anything but if i'm hiking, camping night fishing or whatever i always have a camera with me. Always have. Even keep one in the car. It's just this red eye shine i some times see that's baffling me a bit. Not that i see it a lot, just now and again. Any ideas?
@@ianrichardson3968 That is a very good question. If possible, please send us an e-mail directly to askbh@bhphoto.com so we can look into it for you.
Lol am I the only one who is getting cold just from seeing all that snow get on his face, glasses and jacket?
Is this not Zack Arias?
Hint: Brush the snow off the camera. :)
I hear that you never tried olympus 😊 someone even managed to get the milky-way with 10 seconds handheld camera 😉 but yes, low quality cameras can't do it 😊
And I am sure you use a flash
I know this is serious, but I was seeing the funny side as he gets more and more snowed on.
who on earth leaves snoe on their camera