Had to fix a Rad leak on my 1940 Pickup. Attempt all repairs at your own risk! This may not be the correct way to fix a copper radiator, I'm no expert, but it works for me!
The key is to clean the area that needs to receive solder really well, cover it with flux and use the right temp to facilitate solder flow and prevent the tube surface and solder from burning; I see all of the above applied in this video. Great video! Thanks for posting!
I'm glad I found your video! I'm working on a 46 Plymouth with a pin hole in the radiator. Local shop wanted big bucks to fix it and I only earn medium bucks so I decided to fix it myself!
All of those plastic 'zip' pin mounts I've ever seen come with rubber or foam backers for the points that touch the Rad. But yah, even with those I never like them and never use them. Usually just fab a bracket or find some place to mount the cooler. That's the way rad shops used to fix the leaking tubes. Or they would fill the top and bottom of the leaking tube with solder to seal it off from the coolant when the tanks were off for cleaning. OK for a couple tubes but each one cuts the cooling just a little. Cheaper than a core though.
I would use Acid core on a radiator, will help clean the area and bond better. Lead free is fine to use as well, should be used for fixing copper pipes in a house etc. Rosin core is for soldering electrical.
I did yes, it wasn't the fan itself that wore into the rad but the straps that held it on the other side. They stretched or worked themselves loose over time and wore into the rad. Better to build a bracket in order to hold the fans vs using those ties.
You want to use acid core plumbing solder. Tin-Lead is best, 60/40. You could use LF but not the best choice. Has Tin-Antimony which melts at a higher temp doesn't stick as well. That metal is so thin you want low temps.
So would a plumbing torch kit be pretty well suited for this kind of thing? Also, any tips on removing seized up transmission cooler lines? My current plan is to just cut the lines off with a tubing cutter and put some short pieces of rubber fuel hose over the cut lines when I put the radiator back in. It's for a pretty low budget project truck.
Plumbing torch kit should work just fine. As for the lines, try a product like KB88, some kind of penetrant to soak into the threads. I wouldn't recommend patching a transmission line with fuel hose, might work but I wouldn't trust it. Transmission oil is pretty flammable. If the only option is to cut I would try crimp on ferrule ends and hydraulic hose, any hydraulic shop should be able to build you something on the cheap.
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The key is to clean the area that needs to receive solder really well, cover it with flux and use the right temp to facilitate solder flow and prevent the tube surface and solder from burning; I see all of the above applied in this video. Great video! Thanks for posting!
I'm glad I found your video! I'm working on a 46 Plymouth with a pin hole in the radiator. Local shop wanted big bucks to fix it and I only earn medium bucks so I decided to fix it myself!
All of those plastic 'zip' pin mounts I've ever seen come with rubber or foam backers for the points that touch the Rad. But yah, even with those I never like them and never use them. Usually just fab a bracket or find some place to mount the cooler.
That's the way rad shops used to fix the leaking tubes. Or they would fill the top and bottom of the leaking tube with solder to seal it off from the coolant when the tanks were off for cleaning. OK for a couple tubes but each one cuts the cooling just a little. Cheaper than a core though.
My skid steer radiator is leaking, and it’s $1400 for a new one… it’s made of brass and copper, I’m gonna try this. Thanks!
Good luck! Hopefully it works out for you. I did this in 2021 and its still holding strong on my truck.
@780SpeedCustom Awesome thanks I did it and no leaks! I pressure tested it to 10psi still no leaks! If it can hold that I think it’d be fine
Useful video as I need to use the same principle to reattach a side piece on a radiator at some point. 👍
Thanks for posting!
Electric soldiering iron works to.
Hi, what type of wiring solder do you use for copper brazing?
Great work
New subscriber
Cheers
Який припій ви використовуєте? Вибачте, не сприймаю англійську на слух.
lead free plumbing solder works good, use with tinning flux
Awesome video man. Saved my a$$. Loving the music
Glad it helped
Wat did you use to clean it? Thanks
Is this a rosin core solder?
You just used oatey plumbing flux? Is the solder standard 95/5 plumbing solder? I’ll attempt it with laco hot flux and 50/50 solder.
If you zoom you can see it’s a no 95 lead free tinning flux
I have lead free, acid core and rosin core solder. Would one be better than the other?
I would use Acid core on a radiator, will help clean the area and bond better. Lead free is fine to use as well, should be used for fixing copper pipes in a house etc. Rosin core is for soldering electrical.
DD Speed Shop
Did you use the little pads that come with the fan question
I did yes, it wasn't the fan itself that wore into the rad but the straps that held it on the other side. They stretched or worked themselves loose over time and wore into the rad. Better to build a bracket in order to hold the fans vs using those ties.
What chemicals did you use for cleaning
Its been a minute hah but I believe I used Castrol SuperClean, and or brake clean.
what is the code you used for the solder wire?
I used Aquasol lead free solder. Not sure on the code. Plumbing solder for copper pipe etc
You want to use acid core plumbing solder. Tin-Lead is best, 60/40. You could use LF but not the best choice. Has Tin-Antimony which melts at a higher temp doesn't stick as well. That metal is so thin you want low temps.
So would a plumbing torch kit be pretty well suited for this kind of thing? Also, any tips on removing seized up transmission cooler lines? My current plan is to just cut the lines off with a tubing cutter and put some short pieces of rubber fuel hose over the cut lines when I put the radiator back in. It's for a pretty low budget project truck.
Plumbing torch kit should work just fine. As for the lines, try a product like KB88, some kind of penetrant to soak into the threads. I wouldn't recommend patching a transmission line with fuel hose, might work but I wouldn't trust it. Transmission oil is pretty flammable. If the only option is to cut I would try crimp on ferrule ends and hydraulic hose, any hydraulic shop should be able to build you something on the cheap.
Hello brother, can you use the Arabic translation, please, and thank you for the effort you are making