Hi Keith, nice simple solution to an annoying problem. If the new insert plates do turn out to be a little flexible, I'm sure some deeper ribs would be possible.
I have an American saw and we use Dado sets. Also my plate was thicker so I used 12mm Baltic Birch and added little Pads of wood underneath and then sanded then to just the right thickness. Turns out the blade will not retract far enough so I had to use an 8" blade to start the slot and finish with the 10". Made about half a dozen because the dado stack chews up a new one every time you change the thickness. Instead of the pads maybe I should have used small screws. Got some good ideas from yours, like routing the whole stack at once and painting them. Thanks for posting.
Nicely done mate, I like the India ink finish that's one of my favourites at the moment. You made it look nice and simple, I'm going to have to make one arnt I. 😁👌
Nice job, Keith, and a lot simpler method than I used - routing the edges of a thicker red plastic chopping board. BTW, on the odd occasions when you needs to tilt the blade, it is very easy to forget to change the insert first ! - But you've got three!
If you are going to use screws I’d recommend countersunk socket screws. Those star shaped ones will eventually strip due to the repeated removal. Also since the plate is 3mm thick you could create recesses for small 1mm thick magnets that can simply stick to the cast iron table eliminating the screws altogether.
Thanks for the tip on using hardboard, I never would have thought of that! Will you be doing a vid on the riving knife also, would love to see that too! Thanks for all the great vids!!
Been meaning to do something similar with a sheet of aluminium, but I hadn't considered stacking it up and routing round it, brilliant. Now to just get out and get a sheet of 3mm Ali.
Love your work Dude. I suggest this: You need an air flow to carry the dust, and having no holes near the blade means that there is no suction in that important area, where the dust is generated and airborne. I think more holes around the blade (still with the zero clearance insert) would greatly improve dust extraction. A bit like the sanders with dust extraction suction used with perforated sandpaper - the dust is extracted ‘at source’.
Pretty much the other UA-camrs beat me to it, my idea was to have a magnet install on the underside and then use a strong magnet to pull it upwards. Like every one suggested, this would be the most easiest to do and also, you won't have to worry about dust
Brilliant. You're the man buddy. Great video. Those hinges can be a nightmare. We have a new style door that's 1 inch thick and the pantry doors have 5 or 6 hinges. Took me an hour to install those bastards. Have to adjust with a screwdriver mid install, then readjust to clip in, then adjust again. NIGHTMARE 😁
Snazzy dust hood you've got there. I have an old Powermatic 12/14" M-72 table saw with a throat plate similarly shaped to yours but much longer and wider. It suffers from similarly narrow ledge to one side of the blade with supporting lugs spaced far apart for the gappy original cast aluminum plate. The recess for the plate is nearly 1/2" deep. I've thought of using soft 3/8" aluminum plate to make several zero clearance plates for various blades. I'm a little surprised you didn't use aluminum for your plates and wonder whether you or your viewers can advise how to safely extend the sawn slots to fit an exactly-sized splitter. Thanks.
I have watched a number of table saw setups and all seem to include making a zero clearance plate. You would think that manufacturers would pick up on this and supply one ?
A zero clearance plate can only be used at 90 degrees. The manufacturers provide an ‘all rounder’ plate that can be used for 90 degrees to 45 degrees and everything in between.
For easy removal with no finger hole, you could glue a steel washer to the underside of the new plate and easily remove it using a strong rare earth magnet. (Edit) Oops. Looks like many others have already suggested the same.
That makes perfect sense. You need an air flow to carry the dust, and having no holes near the blade means that there is no suction in that important area, where the dust is airborne. I think more holes around the blade (still with the zero clearance insert) would greatly improve dust extraction.
Instead of a finger-hole, you could also just add a magnet or just a metal plate to the bottom of the plate, and then lift it up with a magnet from the top side.
@@vileguile4 He ruins his woodcutting blade. But the sheet won't get stuck, for that to happen the magnets holding force would have to be stronger than Keith's pushing force. If that happens with a little magnet, he needs to get out of the workshop and into a hospital anyway.
1:23 Oh for God's sake! Why didn't it occur to me to use a proper spanner with my router?! I've be struggling with the mm thick one that comes with it for over a year now :) Sometimes I don't engage my brain!
I had a very similar realisation with the "oh, I could just stack them up and router round them, why didn't I think of that" it good to know I'm not the only one.
I've just been reminded of a video about a ZCI that incorporates a big improvement in dust extraction - its here: ua-cam.com/video/R3K3RKn7yis/v-deo.html&feature=emb_title - that you might find interesting Its from the guy that does the comprehensive reviews of China Tools.
Nice, you could always glue a piece of metal to the underside and keep a magnet near by to lift it.
Clever!
To remove the insert - glue a small magnet underneath, use something steel to lift it up?
Hi Keith, nice simple solution to an annoying problem. If the new insert plates do turn out to be a little flexible, I'm sure some deeper ribs would be possible.
Nice, that's a small project for my daughter and I to tackle today.
I have an American saw and we use Dado sets. Also my plate was thicker so I used 12mm Baltic Birch and added little Pads of wood underneath and then sanded then to just the right thickness. Turns out the blade will not retract far enough so I had to use an 8" blade to start the slot and finish with the 10". Made about half a dozen because the dado stack chews up a new one every time you change the thickness. Instead of the pads maybe I should have used small screws. Got some good ideas from yours, like routing the whole stack at once and painting them. Thanks for posting.
Still happy with this saw? I'm considering buying it. What is the thickest blade you can put on it? Would it take 6 mm or 1/4" blade?
Those look nice with the black and the varnish
Good thinking!
Looks great. I made one last week and it was going to be my next video
Thanks Keith very nice from you. I mean less add. Not every UA-camr listen.
For a bit of thought and little effort you now have a safer and more efficient insert plate Keith. Nice one
Nice work mate and worth doing to avoid any catching etc. Great video chap
Nicely done mate, I like the India ink finish that's one of my favourites at the moment. You made it look nice and simple, I'm going to have to make one arnt I. 😁👌
Very well thought through and explained.
Nicely done, Keith. This insert looks good.
They do make a difference. Looks good too. Never thought to paint mine lol
I find that compact laminate makes for great zero clearance material. It's hard, strong, stays flat and isn't affected by humidity.
Nice job, Keith, and a lot simpler method than I used - routing the edges of a thicker red plastic chopping board. BTW, on the odd occasions when you needs to tilt the blade, it is very easy to forget to change the insert first ! - But you've got three!
If you are going to use screws I’d recommend countersunk socket screws. Those star shaped ones will eventually strip due to the repeated removal. Also since the plate is 3mm thick you could create recesses for small 1mm thick magnets that can simply stick to the cast iron table eliminating the screws altogether.
Thanks for the tip on using hardboard, I never would have thought of that! Will you be doing a vid on the riving knife also, would love to see that too!
Thanks for all the great vids!!
Intéressant merci à bientôt salut Jeannot 🛠😉
Been meaning to do something similar with a sheet of aluminium, but I hadn't considered stacking it up and routing round it, brilliant. Now to just get out and get a sheet of 3mm Ali.
Love your work Dude. I suggest this: You need an air flow to carry the dust, and having no holes near the blade means that there is no suction in that important area, where the dust is generated and airborne. I think more holes around the blade (still with the zero clearance insert) would greatly improve dust extraction. A bit like the sanders with dust extraction suction used with perforated sandpaper - the dust is extracted ‘at source’.
I’ve made one at 90 and one at 45 deg.
Pretty much the other UA-camrs beat me to it, my idea was to have a magnet install on the underside and then use a strong magnet to pull it upwards. Like every one suggested, this would be the most easiest to do and also, you won't have to worry about dust
Did you think about using small magnets to hold the plate down. Rather than using screws
Brilliant. You're the man buddy. Great video. Those hinges can be a nightmare. We have a new style door that's 1 inch thick and the pantry doors have 5 or 6 hinges. Took me an hour to install those bastards. Have to adjust with a screwdriver mid install, then readjust to clip in, then adjust again. NIGHTMARE 😁
nice job
Snazzy dust hood you've got there. I have an old Powermatic 12/14" M-72 table saw with a throat plate similarly shaped to yours but much longer and wider. It suffers from similarly narrow ledge to one side of the blade with supporting lugs spaced far apart for the gappy original cast aluminum plate. The recess for the plate is nearly 1/2" deep. I've thought of using soft 3/8" aluminum plate to make several zero clearance plates for various blades. I'm a little surprised you didn't use aluminum for your plates and wonder whether you or your viewers can advise how to safely extend the sawn slots to fit an exactly-sized splitter. Thanks.
The ink was incredible...
Inkredible
I saw a video where it was explained that having holes in the insert away from the blade actually helps dust collection.
Sounds like Hooked on Wood. A great channel. With limited airflow it doesn't matter how good your vac is, it can't collect the dust.
Glue some metal washers under the insert and you can pull it out with a magnet.
You can use a small allen key through the cut in the insert plate, to lift it out :-)
I have watched a number of table saw setups and all seem to include making a zero clearance plate. You would think that manufacturers would pick up on this and supply one ?
A zero clearance plate can only be used at 90 degrees. The manufacturers provide an ‘all rounder’ plate that can be used for 90 degrees to 45 degrees and everything in between.
For easy removal with no finger hole, you could glue a steel washer to the underside of the new plate and easily remove it using a strong rare earth magnet.
(Edit) Oops. Looks like many others have already suggested the same.
Counter to what you might think, with a very similar saw, it seems a zero clearance insert decreases the effectiveness of the dust collection.
That makes perfect sense. You need an air flow to carry the dust, and having no holes near the blade means that there is no suction in that important area, where the dust is airborne. I think more holes around the blade (still with the zero clearance insert) would greatly improve dust extraction.
Instead of a finger-hole, you could also just add a magnet or just a metal plate to the bottom of the plate, and then lift it up with a magnet from the top side.
But what will happen when he cuts large sheet of steel? It would get stuck!
Sorry, tired.. must sleep 😵
Who cuts steel on a table saw
@@vileguile4 He ruins his woodcutting blade. But the sheet won't get stuck, for that to happen the magnets holding force would have to be stronger than Keith's pushing force. If that happens with a little magnet, he needs to get out of the workshop and into a hospital anyway.
just glue a strong magnet under plate then use screw driver or spanner to lift
What are you doing when you're not woodworking mate? Just wondering
😊👍
1:23 Oh for God's sake! Why didn't it occur to me to use a proper spanner with my router?! I've be struggling with the mm thick one that comes with it for over a year now :) Sometimes I don't engage my brain!
I'm only using that one because I lost mine 😂
I had a very similar realisation with the "oh, I could just stack them up and router round them, why didn't I think of that" it good to know I'm not the only one.
@@cjhification d'oh!
It's a pity they don't come with a "set" of plates for different jobs, these days, considering almost everyone that owns a table makes their own...
Calm down MR Brown you will make this saw look to good and ole badger will be getting Another table saw lol
🍻🍺
I've just been reminded of a video about a ZCI that incorporates a big improvement in dust extraction - its here: ua-cam.com/video/R3K3RKn7yis/v-deo.html&feature=emb_title - that you might find interesting Its from the guy that does the comprehensive reviews of China Tools.
That is really interesting!! Now I have to rethink my inserts 🤔
the music in the backround is distracting