I don’t understand why there are so many angry, negative and abusive comments here! This guy is testing whether old batteries can be revived using a solution posted on UA-cam. What’s so wrong about that? This was helpful. And I appreciate this guy’s effort and generosity. There are some very angry, stupid people out there who do nothing but abuse others.
@uporn.commAndy White but how do you know it doesn’t work? Direct experience or based on understanding how batteries function and decay? Im president of my own business but that doesn’t substantiate my opinions.
Pull the old batteries apart and go to a hobby shop that sells RC cars and planes and by new batteries put them back in yourself. I have been doing that for many moons
This illustrates why I have a special love for cordless tools. The tool companies now have this racket where you buy the tool and it doesn't even come with batteries, why? They want you to buy all their brand of tools and ALL of the batteries never seem to last nearly long enough to seem worth it to me. I live in the US in the desert and the heat in the summer kills a battery in no time. Corded tools are harder to find but when you do find them they run for many years; now that IS value! My rant is now over.
Picked up a spot welder for less than 100, bought the replacement cells (Read reviews and seller feedback). I didn’t have to change any tco’s. Way cheaper than OEM and now I have better mah. Did both li and nicd. The only batteries that were a pita were the milwaukee 2.4v and making 9.6 bar type. It has to be carefully broken open because it’s a sealed/clamshell type. I used a resin glue to hold it back together.
I have used this method and it works but I just tapped quickly with the welder not held it for any length of time. I think he might have fried his batteries by holding it too long.
Wow! I just watched this and then went on to read some of the comments, why so much hostility? people. The guy just decided to attempt to rejuvenate his batteries, and give us the benefit of wether his method works or not. Chill!
It does work, as Griffon points out, you need to give it a significantly higher voltage than it needs, for a brief period (10 seconds sounds good). Most welders (including arc) are fairly low voltage, very high current.... I used exactly this technique using my TIG welder, which puts out about 36 volts, on a 9.6v NiCad battery. I wouldn't say it rejuvenated it... but it did give it a few more charge cycles before it died again. Note that this will ONLY work on NiCad batteries (and maybe NiMH? Not sure about that one) - Whatever you do, don't try it on a Lithium battery, unless you like fires... Also, just a quick comment; right at the end there, the flashing red light was the over-temperature warning, not the "your battery is broken" warning. Blasting it with high voltage will cause it to heat up noticably (the longer you blast, the hotter it gets); so maybe it just needed some time to cool off before you charged it? Last comment: If you want to test one to destruction, do it outdoors & downwind... Cadmium is extremely poisonous, and Nickel isn't much better...
Safer way i found worked for mine was to take one good battery and run leads to from positive to neg to the bad one for 2 mins then charge the bad one It works
i recovered old tool batteries by taking them apart and finding the 1 or 2 dead cells, replacing these cells make the battery fuction again, if you take your initially fried battery a part there will be good cells in there, use them to replace the dead cells in the other battery. these cells can be found by removing them from the circuit and testing replacement cells are available from Ebay at a nominal charge my friend next door from Andy Tool Hire replaces his dead cells this way and as he said extra working time is cash in the pocket. but for working guys less expenditure is a return on the investment.
It can work if you pulse the charge on the charger. It worked on my old De walt, I plugged it into a socket with a switch and repeatedly turned it on and off for around 30-40 seconds. This method rejuvenated my batteries for around 3 months. However, it is only a short term fix. power tools do not (intentionally) last forever :)
I just brought 2 20 year old 18v batteries back to life using a hobby charger Hitec x1 AC plus (discontinued but they have newer similar) using the charge/discharge function 5 times in a row
As Alan said below the NiCad type of battery develops small crystalline spikes which shorts out the battery and makes it nonchargeable from the standpoint of the charger. A short surge from the welder will vaporize these shorting spikes and the battery will be usable again. This makes these types of battery's reusable for a while. Good Luck
Back in the 80s as a model aircraft flyer we used Nicads ...so we had a talk from a top battery scientist he showed us how to revive a nicad ..... use a 12 volt battery and put negative too negative and positive to the positive on the nicad ...just flash it like a second at a time, now apparently this burns the crystal build up on the nicad. you can do this on a battery pack by shorting each cell. it worked for me on an amature radio battery that would not charge.
I put 18650 batteries in two of my old cordless drills, used them until drained and charged them with the regular charger. No problem, still using them. This was about 8 months ago.
the reason the batter will not charge is because the voltage drop to low, the way to fit it is to take apart and connect a good battery in parallel for 15 sec
Couldn't find replacement battery (NiCd) for my old impact wrench, new model batteries didn't fit. So, I've bought the cheapest battery with the same cells inside and used them to rebuild my old one. :)
There are also a few sources for high-current sub-C NiCd cells with solder tabs to build replacement batteries. Of course, the tool's battery shell should be of a design that can be opened and reused (like the superb older Panasonic 12v tools), rather than ultrasonically welded to make them unrepairable.
Works if you put the charger on the battery. Then pull plug out till off then immediately plug in again very quickly if shows red instead of the green orange it will charge. I have a ryobi battery that has lasted over 5 years and this works. its better to just charge the batteries up every once in a while if you dont use them so they dont fully drain!
inside these type of power packs have lithium ion batteries that is similar to double A batteries 1 or 2 of these batteries are flat dead cuz it leaked out its acids. if you are a tech savvy person, replacing those defective batteries will definitely recharge the power pack to its full capacity again..
I once tried the bit where I stuck a dead Ryobi battery in the charger and plugged and unplugged the charger about a dozen times. One battery came back to life but another one did not.
You arent supposed to hold it on there for a few seconds at all....just touch and let go a couple times at most. YOU should also have safety glasses on as well incase the batt pack explodes.
I have successfully recovered NiCad cells with higher voltage burst across them, theory is that "whiskers form in the cells shorting them out and a splash of higher voltage blows these whiskers off. Only had success with dismantling the battery and dealing with each cell individually while still in circuit, normally only of them one shorts out. I built a rig with a few capacitors of several micro farads for a bit of current, charged this up to 24V and splashed it across the cell with a couple of needles made from TIG filler wire, it was successful most of the time. A 500V volt Megger has very low current and wont build up the voltage into a short.
What usually happens is one battery reverses polarity. All you do is open the unit find the one that reversed itself and triple the voltage on the one battery (1 1/2 volts and charge it with 5 or 6 volts using a meter and your probes) and if all is well if will be working for awhile again, However you have fried the protection boards on your batteries.
Good video Gary I can tell your a proper old school engineer like me.. if these so called fixers on here actually took the time to strip a Makita 1.3amp battery they would realise you can’t get the cells out to replace and solder on the top side without destroying the positive and negative connecting tracks.. they were designed that way. Otherwise Makita would of sold the cells as replacements but they don’t cos they wanted you to buy a new battery. Simple economics gentlemen and ladies and all the other genders.
If they are NiCD batteries, chances are you can revive them, but it takes a bit more work than what you did. I worked in a place where most of the instruments had battery backup for obvious reasons if you knew where. Problem was that these were usually plugged in most of the time and only ran on batteries if attached and set up and the power failed. This means that the batteries were essentially never discharged and recharged. We took the faulty packs out and replaced them, as the instruments were vital and could not have revived batteries in them. Most of the time one or more cells had totally shorted out and the way we revived them was to take a DC power supply, crank it up to the maximum 60 Volts it would do and then we would connect minus to minus and then put plus on for at short time, remove and put it on again. After some time, most of these cell's would have the internal short, burned so that the battery would not be shorted. As soon as this happened we had a battery conditioner unit that did a 40 hour cycle where it slowly charged the battery, discharged it to minimum voltage and recharged again. It did this a few times and on the last charge it measured the capacity of the battery, and 99/100 of these were over 90% of the capacity, printed on the battery. Your NiCD batteries are probably the same, but since you try to shock the one or 2 cells that are shorted thru the rest of the "good" batteries in series, it will not work. If possible take the packs apart, measure the voltage across each cell, and on the ones that read 0.0, measure ohms. If it says shorted, apply the welder for short bursts to that individual cell and it might revive it. When it does, use the charger to charge the pack. The reason it blinks is probably because the battery voltage is too low. When one or more cell's are shorted, the maximum voltage that you will get will be lowered with 1.2 Volts and the charger can detect that the voltage is never going to what it expected it to do.
They are not 'old' tech here in Canada - I just found 2 basically seldom used Makita's PA12's with 2 batteries in each case, in the recycling.. they were sitting right on top in the Makita Cases... ready to be taken back home.. people have so much borrowed money here in Canada.. they buy up great tools, and then just junk them when they are done with their little project.. and you find this stuff.. the batteries don't flash as bad..but 2 of the 4 don't charge to capacity and run out in 3 minutes, so I'll be 'flashing' the whiskers out of them.. you can do it with a DC car charger as well.. the welder is overkill..but if you have one, use it. :) A DC digital PSU from a computer will work on smaller batteries.
Another option..... you CAN buy replacement batteries for inside the battery pack. There are many tutorials online about how to test each cell inside, and then replace the defective ones.
I too had 2 of these type of battery's that had a similar problem,so I got my 20 watt solar panel that had a connector that I could use the full power of the panel and charged it up until it read around 16volts..then placed it in the charger and this seemed to work!...also used this technique with a bosh strimmer battery that was dead and would not charge..it brought it back to live too!...so try it and see if it works for you!
Thing of it is though, the drill itself tends to be capable of years more life. I've resurrected several found roadside, my favorite is an old 12 volt Makita, I run it from a Ryobi 21 volt Lithium battery, nearly twice the voltage and no problems- I haven't bought a battery drill in years, keep finding the orphans. ☺
You should take voltage measurements. Take the new batteries and jumpstart the old batteries up to about 6 V then charge them. It’s not gonna be a new battery but it’s gonna be an old battery they can take a charge.
I have a bunch of old 14.4v and 18v Elu gear with dead batteries. I got a pair of copies from ebay that claimed 3ah. They are not 3ah but they are as good as the original 2ah Iv'e been running them for 4 months, very pleased considering they were £15 each. At that price it's hardly worth breaking the originals to find the good cells.
I've hit my 18 volt dealt battery with 28 volt actually for just a very quick second wait a minute and do again. Then charge as normal To get the capacity back it works to a point
Marc Mallary yes you can replace the dead cells but they are quite expensive so not really worth it. This is nearly a year old so they are long gone and replaced with a new set of Bosch li ion tools as I already have several so they all match now!
I connect mine to a 12 volt car battery charger for a half hour, it brings it to 12 volts and charges just fine afterwards. That's a bit safer than an arc welder....
NiCd batteries can form 'whiskers' of cadmium inside which shortens the battery life. By hooking up a higher voltage (=higher current) for a short time the heavy current melts the whiskers and gives some function back.
One way is charge the good battery, then with that and one dead per time you connect both positives and negatives on to each other, not positive to negative, and give them at least 5 minutes for the dead one to get the volts up as the charger will only charge when the battery has volts in it. This Is more often the case as the battery doesn't hold the volts when it doesn't get used often enough. I did this the other day with my batteries cause one didn't charge or work and now its taking near full use and charge.
I pout a battery in the freezer over night and then put it in the charger the next day. At some point in the recharging process it liked the battery temperature and it recharged. It didn't last many days longer but it got me through for a few days. Our local batteries plus rebuilds the batteries. I have several batteries packs I have had rebuilt.
There are places you can send the old battery to they replace the cell and send it back, or try it yourself. Loads of videos on UA-cam doing that. Sometimes you can hook a light bulb up to it, discharge it completely, charge it, and will take a charge. NiCa are known for taking what's call memory, and with get to where they will only charge as much as the charged or used last time.
The welder's output current is total overkill and destroyed the internal cells and/or the battery management circuitry. Also AC is incompatible.. If the battery is overly discharged the charger is designed to refuse to charge it. There is a special charger that can apply an initial recovery charge before charging on full power, but it is assumed the owner will purchase a new battery. In the absence of either your idea is worth a go, but use two 12v gel batteries (or even car batteries) connected in series to supply 24v. Give it about 5 seconds. I have taken these NiCD batteries apart, replaced cells with Lithium 18650 connected in an arrangement to provide a slightly higher voltage. When required I use an IMAX charger. You program it with the info re cell type, number in series etc. It can charge anything. You can get the cells out of any defunct lithium battery including laptops. Charge the individual cells, and test them for a min 4v ( 4.1/4.2 is the maximum they go to) - but calculate the total nominal voltage for the appliance in multiples of 3.7v. Recovered cells are nearly always fine. But don't buy them on ebay from China they are usually fake. Recycled, branded cells are far superior.
@@garyhuston It's your idea that I say is worth a go! But with a certain modification. As regards upgrading to lithium - I detailed a way of doing this for free. The NiCD batteries are inferior not the tools, which can be superb expensive items.
@@garyhuston The cells are free if, as I suggested, the use of batteries to be recycled. People where I work drop their tool and laptop batteries in a receptacle to be recycled by me. I say it is time spent usefully. An hour of work can return a tool worth £150 back to service, perform better than it did beforehand, plus reduce landfill and your carbon footprint
OK here's my two cents worth, (Im American, don't know yours unless a quid or pence), anyway I had read an article that used the same method as this guy and I tried it, I had 8 old NiCd batteries to try it on, I took my 200 amp hobby welder on low voltage and did not hold it on the positive constantly as this guy did, I held it on negative constantly but brushed across the positive 10 to 15 times, I had luck on recharging 3 and no luck at all on 5 of the batteries, again my batteries sat a while before I tried this but I'm still satisfied with my results, If you only have one or two batteries to try it on don't count on a happy experience, thanks you all.
I have been informed by a specialist battery store source that if the battery has an overcharging safety feature incorporated in the design what can happen if the battery sits on the shelf for too long and the voltage drops below that required for the safety circuit to function the battery will never charge from that point as the safety circuit needs to be operational for the battery to charge. This happened to a camcorder I own that was stored for about 5 years. This is disappointing news as a perfectly good battery otherwise has to be discarded just because the safety circuit cannot be reactivated.
I did the same thing. It's supposed to spark, it "fakes" the batter out. I think they are designed to fail. I don't know what's wrong though, if you don't use them they just die. Min did come back to life after I shocked it with a 12V meter a few times. It charged and I used it. It's dead again though.
Thing is these cells develop dendrites that short the the cell out over time making them unable to charge. Providing a high current hi-voltage charge can destroy the microscopic dendrites allowing the battery to charge again. But it is only temporary. Like L said you would be better off opening the battery and defining the bad cell instead of shocking the entire pack. Then deal with that cell. But I have to say it may work with some battery packs. You don't need a "spot welder" just connect it quickly to the mains. Ps don't blow your circuit breaker. And it must be really quick.
I like Ryobi tools. The keep coming up with new tools but all tools work with their new Li-ion batteries or older NMhidride batteries. And they have lowered the price of their largest battery. Now they are 2 for $99 and seem to last and last. Even if a battery sits for a year, it will still take a full charge.
You have got to turn the current down to minimum otherwise you destroy the batteries forever. The idea is that the NiCads develop a memory which one breaks up with a higher impulsed current. But too much current and it kills the battery. I would turn welder current down to minimum and tap electrodes 2 to 3 times on the terminals. + to + and - to - if that is not obvious.
i seen other vids. you have a higher volts then the battery. and only Tap the battery not hold it there. tap up to 10 times? well more if you want. tap not hold.
These Battery tools are one big con. I have a Borsch drill came with two batteries, both died same time, and the thing wasn't cheap either. I have a black and decker electric drill over 40 years old, well used, and still in perfect working order. I will stick to my old stuff
I tried I t does not work I’ll send u about25 battery s after u get the working send me a billing that’s reasonable and I’ll pay you plus’s shippingcharge
The battery contains approx 4 - 8 cells that when in good condition should have a volt meter reading of 1. 2 volts for each cell Put the batter in the charger for 15 mins forget about red lights! The charger should be able to give you a nomanal charge, that won't work the drill but should be enough to enagize each cell, Open the battery pack and mesure votage to each cell, and replace the cells that are lower than 1.2 volts. Ideal for the guy in the video as he has 3 batteries, though your hardware store will carry 1,2 volt replacement cells for around 1 pound each
a buddy of mine had to be taken to the hospital yesterday after trying this. Hi fortunately only had a cornea abrasion on his left eye and will be fine. but the battery imploded!
Believe it or not you can take them to Batteries and Bulbs Plus and the can rebuild them! I did not know about that until the other day when I was in the store to pick up a specialty bulb I ordered and a woman brought in hers to exchange it for a new one. Of course they did not carry it (OK so it was a Harbor Freight 12 volt OLD!) but told her they would rebuild it and guarantee it as new. The cost would only be $49.99 and she agreed to have them do it. After she left I asked the sales staff about it considering she could have likely found a new one at Harbor for $20. He told me that it is quite common for people to trust their rebuild over a new one. So I guess you personally have to weigh out the value to you to replace, rebuild or upgrade all the way around
Interesting!! I've done it with a few batteries but you need to just flash it do not leave it on or it overheats as yours did flix flix test flix flix test..
I have been recharging batteries for some 48 years, lead-acid and nickel-cadmium plus others. If the battery (ni-cd in this showing) has not been abused, that means regular recharging monthly, used or not and not draining the battery below 1.2 volts/cell, you could be in luck. I am not giving a detailed how-to but will leave it at this. If the battery does not recharge it is because the charger voltage is too low, and this is designed this way. This tells you that the battery internal resistance has risen too high during attempt charge that current flow is extremely low or not at all. Hence no charge. The charge voltage must be increased to balance out the increased internal resistance so current flow will occur. It is safe to charge at 10% amp/hour rating for 14 hours or so. Note; the internal battery resistance is not static but constantly changes during charge or discharge and the increased battery voltage required is not linear: small increases in applied voltage can result in large increase in current flow. Good luck!
I've had far too many Lithiums go dead on me and they won't charge, so I went back to the old NiCads that I've used for decades. Cheaper, and a bit heavier, but worth it.
Its only one or two of the cells that have failed if you open it up and check them with a multimeter swap them out they are as good as new like laptop batteries.
Theres a guy on You Tube called Frugal Prepper. He explained why this works and saved 3 batteries. He said just touch it real quick and not to hold it cause it will blow up
we have a company that is called (Allpac)(central us) that carries all different types of battery(cells) that you can buy to rebuild your battery pac or they will do it for you at about 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of a new pac
It's normally the 1st or last cell that dies, make 1 good one from the two defect packs... open the duff one's up and test each cell with a meter and change the defective ones,.
Adapt one of the stuffed batteries by removing the guts and attaching two wires plus clamp to the poles, now you can run it off a vehicle battery. Mostly better than using the first cordless drill, uncle Pauls brace 'n bit. Have run mine on 12 and 24 volts and no problem.
Gary Huston It does, but it could help you out if stuck in remote parts and also is an alternative to chucking the stuffed battery in the skip while still being able to go cordless if and when a good and charged battery available.
hey gary nice video, nice try , I had an old drill with dead battery , so I bought another one with same battery charger , and try the old one onto the new charger and guess what is charging like new , you might or anyone for all I know can use this trick . so I have the old drill and battery from about 6 or 7 years working like new.
The point you are missing here is you need to "shock" the battery with a greater voltage then the battery you are shocking... if you are trying to rejuvenate a 9 volt battery for older drills you can use 2 car batteries (spares) in series to get 24 volt and do it that way 12volt may work but its only 3v more then the battery.. I did this on 20 volt black and decker battery by using 2 other batteries of same type in series to shock it with 40 volts etc.. you want high voltage not high amperage
I have a new battery that has never taken a charge out of the package. They will not replace it because I was wearing the wrong boots the day I bought it, probably the wrong socks too. Must be nice to sell junk and not have to replace defective products. May try this, got nothing to lose.
You did not show that the second one was dead just prior to hitting it with the welder probes. The batteries for tools usually have an electronic circuit built into the battery; which in turn prevents or prohibits doing a reverse/direct charge.
rafdavfl what difference does that make? I told you it was dead before and it was dead after, what’s your point? Only modern tools have that circuit, these were old!
Gary Huston Not trying to make it as if you're lying. But when you show ALL the pertinent facts, demonstration, people tend to have more belief in your video. By using the charger pry to connect the welder probes to the battery is a good way to handle that.....
You may have fried the circuits. I think the reason it didn’t work is you might have had the welder amperage on too high. It works for me and phone / camera batteries when I connect a 9v battery for 30-40 secs. It is a technique that is used to forcibly charge the battery when the peak charger won’t. Nickel cadmium batteries need to hold a slight charge in order for the peak charger to start charging them.
This might be a good (bad idea) Band Aid type fix to get you through a job, but it won't last. There is good news though. Many tool manufacturers are making Lithium Ion conversion kits for their older tools that many of us are not yet ready to part with. These upgrades are much less expensive than replacing the entire tool, and they will last a very long time.
What you can do is get a cheap Aldi or Lidl battery and undo them and swap them over, to be honest there tends to only be 3 or so out the whole lot that is shot , check the ones that are 1.7 and they are the good ones, hopefully the one that sits on top won’t be one of them “ which would save on work” but easy to do and check out how to use a cheap capacitor to do the welds “ about £3 each , all the batteries in all of these tend to be the same,
All you do is blow the protection circuitry. The myth is that it destroys the "tendrils" that cause Nicad to fails. This DOESN'T work. All you do is risk having batteries explode in your face.
It works using a car battery charger but don't hold them on the plus and minus, all you've got to do is break the build up of crystals that cause a battery to short out. Hold the minus on then zap the plus about 10 quick times to break the built-up crystals to break. It's worked on almost all my Ni-Cad batteries and a few nimh ones. Just be careful not to hold it on for too long. It'll reset back to factory condition. I've been hunting out all my Ni-Cad batteries.
Cindy's husband Carl here. A 12-volt lead acid battery, that has what you're talking about. It is called suffocation, it slowly fills in the plates like dirt does in an air filter, making it a smaller and smaller filter. The same goes for this 12 volt battery, it just becomes a smaller battery until it can't take a charge anymore. The way around some of this is, a 1 amp overcharge from 14 .4 or 7 t o 15.1 2 15 point 8. Depending up on these specific gravity of each cell meaning 1.265, the sales must balance out check this overcharge about every couple hours with specific gravity readings if these readings do not balance keep the charge going it could take 16 hours if after that time your battery won't come back you either have one or more bad cells but either way we'll burn away this off of vacation which is a crystal build-up what keeps the elect whatever they call him electrons passing through the plates to give you the voltage in the average that you need for running your vehicle okay good, knowledge is power.
Zap them with car battery charger it does work. I'm not pulling anybodies chain like some idiots who fool people into believing your Internet goes faster by folding ethernet cable (tit). Best one so far is a far in a bottle for sale on EBay! !!!
I read again Carl. Nicad batteries I'm on about. 12v car charger, nagative to negative get positive to touch positive quick consecutive touches. 10 times ( just to round the number up) does the job.
Carl here. Yeah I've seen what you're talking about I've done gutter work and use those tools a lot in construction. So yeah I've seen that, just pulling the battery in and out of the charger 4 unplugging the charger in and out real fast. But after a while it seemed they didn't hold much of a charge and went right back to their problem cuz that was on the other batteries I don't know about the batteries you're talking about and that's okay best to you bye.
I can appreciate this how to vid. I'm looking at two dead batteries that I have here. I may still try this method with a 12volt battery. Thanks Bud. Cheers !!***.
I would be worried it would explode! A friend of mine had a tractor battery explode and a piece of the plastic from the battery hit him in the head pretty bad!😵
@@paulrobinson9318 you're absolutely right about the difference. I was just thinking though, that some batteries have warnings on them about possibly exploding. They're the non chargable ones, I know, but with the welding rods, there's no way to know what voltage you're hitting that battery with! I would definitely wear a face mask if I tried it!☺
An easier way to do this 'resurrection' is to first discharge the old battery. Then put it in the freezer over night. Place your charger upside down beneath a shelf or whatever and tape the battery in upside down. Next take a strong magnet and fix it under the battery, then plug it in until charged. This will change the poles inside the battery and it will be like new. I tried jacking the last battery with 120 volts like the guy did with his welder and the f'er just blew up in my face. I had a ski mask on so I'm ok.
Bloody genius, all my old tools are working again, even the tools which I bought to replace the ones that weren't working, what the he'll am I going to do with all of these tools now 🤣
when the battery is not used the voltage gradually drops. If it drops to low the supplied battery charger has a low voltage cutout which stops it charging the battery , all you needed to do is raise the voltage slightly to allow the charger to cut in. You can do that with a ordinary car battery charger or a variable volt power source . www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/variable-power-supply
I have done this and it did work...of course the battery has to be disassembled to bypass the voltage/charging circuitry...but it does work if the battery is still good.
I have Worx lawn trimmers that use the type of battery in the video. I had a few that I was able to charge for 6 years, and now I'm lucky if a can get two seasons out of them.
Jumping the battery( while on the charger )with an additional small regular 9 volt dollar store battery will sometimes force activate the charger and begin recharging a battery that's been left discharged for too long.A pack which contains a shorted or otherwise damaged battery should be discarded.These packs typically contain multiple cells which will explode & burn non stop if subjected to higher current from a non standard charger ., & worse yet they will give no warning ,or even a higher temperature on the case than a new battery running the drill (or whatever ) under load.I subjected one to force charging ,at a higher rate ,& the cells started to explode together & in sequence & would not stop !The smoldering result was shovelled into a bucket of water at a distance.I fortunately knew of this possibility beforehand & now you do too! So take the necessary precautions!
I have tried voltages up to 2x the rated of the battery. None work. To make it work!.... remove batteries, solder 6 foot 14 ga extension stranded wire and connect to external small batteries! Charge with Harbor freight 12v trickle charger. Works all day on one charge! The batteries cost a third what the originals cost.
I don’t understand why there are so many angry, negative and abusive comments here!
This guy is testing whether old batteries can be revived using a solution posted on UA-cam. What’s so wrong about that?
This was helpful. And I appreciate this guy’s effort and generosity.
There are some very angry, stupid people out there who do nothing but abuse others.
@uporn.commAndy White did you try this method? What happened?
@uporn.commAndy White but how do you know it doesn’t work? Direct experience or based on understanding how batteries function and decay? Im president of my own business but that doesn’t substantiate my opinions.
Pull the old batteries apart and go to a hobby shop that sells RC cars and planes and by new batteries put them back in yourself. I have been doing that for many moons
This illustrates why I have a special love for cordless tools. The tool companies now have this racket where you buy the tool and it doesn't even come with batteries, why? They want you to buy all their brand of tools and ALL of the batteries never seem to last nearly long enough to seem worth it to me. I live in the US in the desert and the heat in the summer kills a battery in no time. Corded tools are harder to find but when you do find them they run for many years; now that IS value! My rant is now over.
Picked up a spot welder for less than 100, bought the replacement cells (Read reviews and seller feedback). I didn’t have to change any tco’s. Way cheaper than OEM and now I have better mah. Did both li and nicd. The only batteries that were a pita were the milwaukee 2.4v and making 9.6 bar type. It has to be carefully broken open because it’s a sealed/clamshell type. I used a resin glue to hold it back together.
I have used this method and it works but I just tapped quickly with the welder not held it for any length of time.
I think he might have fried his batteries by holding it too long.
Youll blow any battery with an arc welder held on it for 1 second never mind 6 or 10 seconds your supposed to just spark it 6 to 8 times and it works
Wow! I just watched this and then went on to read some of the comments, why so much hostility? people.
The guy just decided to attempt to rejuvenate his batteries, and give us the benefit of wether his method works or not.
Chill!
blah
It does work, as Griffon points out, you need to give it a significantly higher voltage than it needs, for a brief period (10 seconds sounds good). Most welders (including arc) are fairly low voltage, very high current.... I used exactly this technique using my TIG welder, which puts out about 36 volts, on a 9.6v NiCad battery. I wouldn't say it rejuvenated it... but it did give it a few more charge cycles before it died again. Note that this will ONLY work on NiCad batteries (and maybe NiMH? Not sure about that one) - Whatever you do, don't try it on a Lithium battery, unless you like fires...
Also, just a quick comment; right at the end there, the flashing red light was the over-temperature warning, not the "your battery is broken" warning. Blasting it with high voltage will cause it to heat up noticably (the longer you blast, the hotter it gets); so maybe it just needed some time to cool off before you charged it?
Last comment: If you want to test one to destruction, do it outdoors & downwind... Cadmium is extremely poisonous, and Nickel isn't much better...
Safer way i found worked for mine was to take one good battery and run leads to from positive to neg to the bad one for 2 mins then charge the bad one It works
i recovered old tool batteries by taking them apart and finding the 1 or 2 dead cells, replacing these cells make the battery fuction again, if you take your initially fried battery a part there will be good cells in there, use them to replace the dead cells in the other battery. these cells can be found by removing them from the circuit and testing replacement cells are available from Ebay at a nominal charge my friend next door from Andy Tool Hire replaces his dead cells this way and as he said extra working time is cash in the pocket. but for working guys less expenditure is a return on the investment.
It can work if you pulse the charge on the charger. It worked on my old De walt, I plugged it into a socket with a switch and repeatedly turned it on and off for around 30-40 seconds. This method rejuvenated my batteries for around 3 months. However, it is only a short term fix. power tools do not (intentionally) last forever :)
I just brought 2 20 year old 18v batteries back to life using a hobby charger Hitec x1 AC plus (discontinued but they have newer similar) using the charge/discharge function 5 times in a row
As Alan said below the NiCad type of battery develops small crystalline spikes which shorts out the battery and makes it nonchargeable from the standpoint of the charger. A short surge from the welder will vaporize these shorting spikes and the battery will be usable again. This makes these types of battery's reusable for a while. Good Luck
Back in the 80s as a model aircraft flyer we used Nicads ...so we had a talk from a top battery scientist he showed us how to revive a nicad ..... use a 12 volt battery and put negative too negative and positive to the positive on the nicad ...just flash it like a second at a time, now apparently this burns the crystal build up on the nicad. you can do this on a battery pack by shorting each cell. it worked for me on an amature radio battery that would not charge.
I put 18650 batteries in two of my old cordless drills, used them until drained and charged them with the regular charger. No problem, still using them. This was about 8 months ago.
the reason the batter will not charge is because the voltage drop to low, the way to fit it is to take apart and connect a good battery in parallel for 15 sec
Couldn't find replacement battery (NiCd) for my old impact wrench, new model batteries didn't fit.
So, I've bought the cheapest battery with the same cells inside and used them to rebuild my old one. :)
There are also a few sources for high-current sub-C NiCd cells with solder tabs to build replacement batteries. Of course, the tool's battery shell should be of a design that can be opened and reused (like the superb older Panasonic 12v tools), rather than ultrasonically welded to make them unrepairable.
Works if you put the charger on the battery. Then pull plug out till off then immediately plug in again very quickly if shows red instead of the green orange it will charge. I have a ryobi battery that has lasted over 5 years and this works. its better to just charge the batteries up every once in a while if you dont use them so they dont fully drain!
inside these type of power packs have lithium ion batteries that is similar to double A batteries 1 or 2 of these batteries are flat dead cuz it leaked out its acids. if you are a tech savvy person, replacing those defective batteries will definitely recharge the power pack to its full capacity again..
I once tried the bit where I stuck a dead Ryobi battery in the charger and plugged and unplugged the charger about a dozen times. One battery came back to life but another one did not.
Nothing ventured nothing gained. WAY TO GO!!!
You arent supposed to hold it on there for a few seconds at all....just touch and let go a couple times at most. YOU should also have safety glasses on as well incase the batt pack explodes.
I have successfully recovered NiCad cells with higher voltage burst across them, theory is that "whiskers form in the cells shorting them out and a splash of higher voltage blows these whiskers off. Only had success with dismantling the battery and dealing with each cell individually while still in circuit, normally only of them one shorts out.
I built a rig with a few capacitors of several micro farads for a bit of current, charged this up to 24V and splashed it across the cell with a couple of needles made from TIG filler wire, it was successful most of the time. A 500V volt Megger has very low current and wont build up the voltage into a short.
'You can't trust anything you see on the internet...', yet here you are!
What usually happens is one battery reverses polarity. All you do is open the unit find the one that reversed itself and triple the voltage on the one battery (1 1/2 volts and charge it with 5 or 6 volts using a meter and your probes) and if all is well if will be working for awhile again, However you have fried the protection boards on your batteries.
I did tbis about 15 years ago to my drill batteries. This makes batteries like new holding charge for a while!
Good video Gary I can tell your a proper old school engineer like me.. if these so called fixers on here actually took the time to strip a Makita 1.3amp battery they would realise you can’t get the cells out to replace and solder on the top side without destroying the positive and negative connecting tracks.. they were designed that way. Otherwise Makita would of sold the cells as replacements but they don’t cos they wanted you to buy a new battery. Simple economics gentlemen and ladies and all the other genders.
You could try opening the battery holder and replacing all the individual batteries !
If they are NiCD batteries, chances are you can revive them, but it takes a bit more work than what you did.
I worked in a place where most of the instruments had battery backup for obvious reasons if you knew where.
Problem was that these were usually plugged in most of the time and only ran on batteries if attached and set up and the power failed. This means that the batteries were essentially never discharged and recharged.
We took the faulty packs out and replaced them, as the instruments were vital and could not have revived batteries in them.
Most of the time one or more cells had totally shorted out and the way we revived them was to take a DC power supply, crank it up to the maximum 60 Volts it would do and then we would connect minus to minus and then put plus on for at short time, remove and put it on again.
After some time, most of these cell's would have the internal short, burned so that the battery would not be shorted.
As soon as this happened we had a battery conditioner unit that did a 40 hour cycle where it slowly charged the battery, discharged it to minimum voltage and recharged again.
It did this a few times and on the last charge it measured the capacity of the battery, and 99/100 of these were over 90% of the capacity, printed on the battery.
Your NiCD batteries are probably the same, but since you try to shock the one or 2 cells that are shorted thru the rest of the "good" batteries in series, it will not work.
If possible take the packs apart, measure the voltage across each cell, and on the ones that read 0.0, measure ohms. If it says shorted, apply the welder for short bursts to that individual cell and it might revive it. When it does, use the charger to charge the pack.
The reason it blinks is probably because the battery voltage is too low. When one or more cell's are shorted, the maximum voltage that you will get will be lowered with 1.2 Volts and the charger can detect that the voltage is never going to what it expected it to do.
D
LOL
They are not 'old' tech here in Canada - I just found 2 basically seldom used Makita's PA12's with 2 batteries in each case, in the recycling.. they were sitting right on top in the Makita Cases... ready to be taken back home.. people have so much borrowed money here in Canada.. they buy up great tools, and then just junk them when they are done with their little project.. and you find this stuff.. the batteries don't flash as bad..but 2 of the 4 don't charge to capacity and run out in 3 minutes, so I'll be 'flashing' the whiskers out of them.. you can do it with a DC car charger as well.. the welder is overkill..but if you have one, use it. :) A DC digital PSU from a computer will work on smaller batteries.
Another option..... you CAN buy replacement batteries for inside the battery pack. There are many tutorials online about how to test each cell inside, and then replace the defective ones.
I too had 2 of these type of battery's that had a similar problem,so I got my 20 watt solar panel that had a connector that I could use the full power of the panel and charged it up until it read around 16volts..then placed it in the charger and this seemed to work!...also used this technique with a bosh strimmer battery that was dead and would not charge..it brought it back to live too!...so try it and see if it works for you!
Thing of it is though, the drill itself tends to be capable of years more life. I've resurrected several found roadside, my favorite is an old 12 volt Makita, I run it from a Ryobi 21 volt Lithium battery, nearly twice the voltage and no problems- I haven't bought a battery drill in years, keep finding the orphans. ☺
You should take voltage measurements. Take the new batteries and jumpstart the old batteries up to about 6 V then charge them. It’s not gonna be a new battery but it’s gonna be an old battery they can take a charge.
I have a bunch of old 14.4v and 18v Elu gear with dead batteries. I got a pair of copies from ebay that claimed 3ah. They are not 3ah but they are as good as the original 2ah Iv'e been running them for 4 months, very pleased considering they were £15 each. At that price it's hardly worth breaking the originals to find the good cells.
I've hit my 18 volt dealt battery with 28 volt actually for just a very quick second wait a minute and do again. Then charge as normal To get the capacity back it works to a point
You might be able to replace the cells inside or maybe combine the best cells of the three battery packs, into one or two packs.
Marc Mallary yes you can replace the dead cells but they are quite expensive so not really worth it. This is nearly a year old so they are long gone and replaced with a new set of Bosch li ion tools as I already have several so they all match now!
I connect mine to a 12 volt car battery charger for a half hour, it brings it to 12 volts and charges just fine afterwards. That's a bit safer than an arc welder....
NiCd batteries can form 'whiskers' of cadmium inside which shortens the battery life. By hooking up a higher voltage (=higher current) for a short time the heavy current melts the whiskers and gives some function back.
Hence, placing it in the freezer...thanks for your support.
One way is charge the good battery, then with that and one dead per time you connect both positives and negatives on to each other, not positive to negative, and give them at least 5 minutes for the dead one to get the volts up as the charger will only charge when the battery has volts in it. This Is more often the case as the battery doesn't hold the volts when it doesn't get used often enough. I did this the other day with my batteries cause one didn't charge or work and now its taking near full use and charge.
I pout a battery in the freezer over night and then put it in the charger the next day. At some point in the recharging process it liked the battery temperature and it recharged. It didn't last many days longer but it got me through for a few days. Our local batteries plus rebuilds the batteries. I have several batteries packs I have had rebuilt.
There are places you can send the old battery to they replace the cell and send it back, or try it yourself. Loads of videos on UA-cam doing that. Sometimes you can hook a light bulb up to it, discharge it completely, charge it, and will take a charge. NiCa are known for taking what's call memory, and with get to where they will only charge as much as the charged or used last time.
The welder's output current is total overkill and destroyed the internal cells and/or the battery management circuitry. Also AC is incompatible..
If the battery is overly discharged the charger is designed to refuse to charge it. There is a special charger that can apply an initial recovery charge before charging on full power, but it is assumed the owner will purchase a new battery.
In the absence of either your idea is worth a go, but use two 12v gel batteries (or even car batteries) connected in series to supply 24v. Give it about 5 seconds.
I have taken these NiCD batteries apart, replaced cells with Lithium 18650 connected in an arrangement to provide a slightly higher voltage. When required I use an IMAX charger. You program it with the info re cell type, number in series etc. It can charge anything. You can get the cells out of any defunct lithium battery including laptops. Charge the individual cells, and test them for a min 4v ( 4.1/4.2 is the maximum they go to) - but calculate the total nominal voltage for the appliance in multiples of 3.7v. Recovered cells are nearly always fine. But don't buy them on ebay from China they are usually fake. Recycled, branded cells are far superior.
Lol! Why would you bother? Just chuck it all away and buy a new more modern tool!
@@garyhuston It's your idea that I say is worth a go! But with a certain modification.
As regards upgrading to lithium - I detailed a way of doing this for free. The NiCD batteries are inferior not the tools, which can be superb expensive items.
Wayne I hardly think it’s free! What about the expense of the cells and the time messing about. Time that could be spent on something useful!
@@garyhuston The cells are free if, as I suggested, the use of batteries to be recycled. People where I work drop their tool and laptop batteries in a receptacle to be recycled by me.
I say it is time spent usefully. An hour of work can return a tool worth £150 back to service, perform better than it did beforehand, plus reduce landfill and your carbon footprint
@@pencilme1n
Yeah, you tell him Wayne.
OK here's my two cents worth, (Im American, don't know yours unless a quid or pence), anyway I had read an article that used the same method as this guy and I tried it, I had 8 old NiCd batteries to try it on, I took my 200 amp hobby welder on low voltage and did not hold it on the positive constantly as this guy did, I held it on negative constantly but brushed across the positive 10 to 15 times, I had luck on recharging 3 and no luck at all on 5 of the batteries, again my batteries sat a while before I tried this but I'm still satisfied with my results, If you only have one or two batteries to try it on don't count on a happy experience, thanks you all.
I have been informed by a specialist battery store source that if the battery has an overcharging safety feature incorporated in the design what can happen if the battery sits on the shelf for too long and the voltage drops below that required for the safety circuit to function the battery will never charge from that point as the safety circuit needs to be operational for the battery to charge. This happened to a camcorder I own that was stored for about 5 years. This is disappointing news as a perfectly good battery otherwise has to be discarded just because the safety circuit cannot be reactivated.
I did the same thing. It's supposed to spark, it "fakes" the batter out. I think they are designed to fail. I don't know what's wrong though, if you don't use them they just die. Min did come back to life after I shocked it with a 12V meter a few times. It charged and I used it. It's dead again though.
I put jumpers on both batts to put some voltage in. It did take a charge because it balanced
Thing is these cells develop dendrites that short the the cell out over time making them unable to charge. Providing a high current hi-voltage charge can destroy the microscopic dendrites allowing the battery to charge again. But it is only temporary. Like L said you would be better off opening the battery and defining the bad cell instead of shocking the entire pack. Then deal with that cell.
But I have to say it may work with some battery packs. You don't need a "spot welder" just connect it quickly to the mains. Ps don't blow your circuit breaker. And it must be really quick.
I like Ryobi tools. The keep coming up with new tools but all tools work with their new Li-ion batteries or older NMhidride batteries. And they have lowered the price of their largest battery. Now they are 2 for $99 and seem to last and last. Even if a battery sits for a year, it will still take a full charge.
I lilke the videos repair on Ryobi batteries
You have got to turn the current down to minimum otherwise you destroy the batteries forever. The idea is that the NiCads develop a memory which one breaks up with a higher impulsed current. But too much current and it kills the battery.
I would turn welder current down to minimum and tap electrodes 2 to 3 times on the terminals. + to + and - to - if that is not obvious.
Appregator (
i seen other vids. you have a higher volts then the battery. and only Tap the battery not hold it there. tap up to 10 times? well more if you want. tap not hold.
Try switching the charger on and off for a minute or two that should get things started, or many not, but it's worth a try .
I tried everything under the sun, nothing worked so binned the lot!
@@garyhuston when it was blinking red it means the charger or the battery is too hot.
These Battery tools are one big con. I have a Borsch drill came with two batteries, both died same time, and the thing wasn't cheap either. I have a black and decker electric drill over 40 years old, well used, and still in perfect working order. I will stick to my old stuff
I tried I t does not work I’ll send u about25 battery s after u get the working send me a billing that’s reasonable and I’ll pay you plus’s shippingcharge
The battery contains approx 4 - 8 cells that when in good condition should have a volt meter reading of 1. 2 volts for each cell
Put the batter in the charger for 15 mins forget about red lights! The charger should be able to give you a nomanal charge, that won't work the drill but should be enough to enagize each cell,
Open the battery pack and mesure votage to each cell, and replace the cells that are lower than 1.2 volts. Ideal for the guy in the video as he has 3 batteries, though your hardware store will carry 1,2 volt replacement cells for around 1 pound each
I thought those chargers were a 15minute charge anyway? Did you try the battery in the drill after charge?
Your talking about modern chargers this tool was very old! Yes, I did and it went flat again in seconds.
a buddy of mine had to be taken to the hospital yesterday after trying this. Hi fortunately only had a cornea abrasion on his left eye and will be fine. but the battery imploded!
John lol! Idiot..
Did it implode (fall into itself) or maybe explode!!!
For the one you cannot re-generate, you can just open it up and change the battery inside and you will have a new battery ready to use..... !
XXX
Believe it or not you can take them to Batteries and Bulbs Plus and the can rebuild them! I did not know about that until the other day when I was in the store to pick up a specialty bulb I ordered and a woman brought in hers to exchange it for a new one. Of course they did not carry it (OK so it was a Harbor Freight 12 volt OLD!) but told her they would rebuild it and guarantee it as new. The cost would only be $49.99 and she agreed to have them do it. After she left I asked the sales staff about it considering she could have likely found a new one at Harbor for $20. He told me that it is quite common for people to trust their rebuild over a new one.
So I guess you personally have to weigh out the value to you to replace, rebuild or upgrade all the way around
N
@Preston McDonald agreed
Interesting!! I've done it with a few batteries but you need to just flash it do not leave it on or it overheats as yours did flix flix test flix flix test..
I have been recharging batteries for some 48 years, lead-acid and nickel-cadmium plus others. If the battery (ni-cd in this showing) has not been abused, that means regular recharging monthly, used or not and not draining the battery below 1.2 volts/cell, you could be in luck. I am not giving a detailed how-to but will leave it at this. If the battery does not recharge it is because the charger voltage is too low, and this is designed this way. This tells you that the battery internal resistance has risen too high during attempt charge that current flow is extremely low or not at all. Hence no charge. The charge voltage must be increased to balance out the increased internal resistance so current flow will occur. It is safe to charge at 10% amp/hour rating for 14 hours or so. Note; the internal battery resistance is not static but constantly changes during charge or discharge and the increased battery voltage required is not linear: small increases in applied voltage can result in large increase in current flow. Good luck!
I've had far too many Lithiums go dead on me and they won't charge, so I went back to the old NiCads that I've used for decades. Cheaper, and a bit heavier, but worth it.
I still have a drill with a cord
A what?.....
Or you could just go old school and use a hand crank drill.
No No No, my corded drill is 2HP, try that on batteries! Use it for winching cows.
Please don’t take the piss
As far as taking a battery to BATTARY PLUS for a rebuild. From my experience it cost as much to rebuild as buying a new. And it doesn't last very long
Its only one or two of the cells that have failed if you open it up and check them with a multimeter swap them out they are as good as new like laptop batteries.
Theres a guy on You Tube called Frugal Prepper. He explained why this works and saved 3 batteries. He said just touch it real quick and not to hold it cause it will blow up
I did my Ryobi batt. With a 12 volt car charger both now work.
we have a company that is called (Allpac)(central us) that carries all different types of battery(cells) that you can buy to rebuild your battery pac or they will do it for you at about 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of a new pac
Spring for the LiPO system, Ryobi, their tools and charger will work with Lipo and NiCad.
I'd rather see someone convert cordless tools turned into corded tools. Some sort of plug-in adapter where the battery plugs into.
It's normally the 1st or last cell that dies, make 1 good one from the two defect packs... open the duff one's up and test each cell with a meter and change the defective ones,.
Thank you, but did'not check the second battery to show it not working, before apply welding machine power
Why are you so stupid? It failed! Why would I wreck a good battery to show it doesn't work?
Adapt one of the stuffed batteries by removing the guts and attaching two wires plus clamp to the poles, now you can run it off a vehicle battery. Mostly better than using the first cordless drill, uncle Pauls brace 'n bit. Have run mine on 12 and 24 volts and no problem.
rather stuffs the idea that they are cordless!
Gary Huston It does, but it could help you out if stuck in remote parts and also is an alternative to chucking the stuffed battery in the skip while still being able to go cordless if and when a good and charged battery available.
Jan-Reinier Voute true, although I have a 3000w inverter in the truck so would just go corded!
hey gary nice video, nice try , I had an old drill with dead battery , so I bought another one with same battery charger , and try the old one onto the new charger and guess what is charging like new , you might or anyone for all I know can use this trick . so I have the old drill and battery from about 6 or 7 years working like new.
The point you are missing here is you need to "shock" the battery with a greater voltage then the battery you are shocking... if you are trying to rejuvenate a 9 volt battery for older drills you can use 2 car batteries (spares) in series to get 24 volt and do it that way 12volt may work but its only 3v more then the battery.. I did this on 20 volt black and decker battery by using 2 other batteries of same type in series to shock it with 40 volts etc.. you want high voltage not high amperage
I have a new battery that has never taken a charge out of the package. They will not replace it because I was wearing the wrong boots the day I bought it, probably the wrong socks too. Must be nice to sell junk and not have to replace defective products. May try this, got nothing to lose.
Id use em as bricks to throw through the window of the place i bought it.
You did not show that the second one was dead just prior to hitting it with the welder probes.
The batteries for tools usually have an electronic circuit built into the battery; which in turn prevents or prohibits doing a reverse/direct charge.
rafdavfl what difference does that make? I told you it was dead before and it was dead after, what’s your point? Only modern tools have that circuit, these were old!
Gary Huston When ever you do a vid as yours', show that you've not switched batteries just before doing the alleged rejuvenating the battery.
rafdavfl why? Are you saying I’m lying about it not working?
Gary Huston Not trying to make it as if you're lying. But when you show ALL the pertinent facts, demonstration, people tend to have more belief in your video. By using the charger pry to connect the welder probes to the battery is a good way to handle that.....
I caught that as well and to me it invalidates everything.
All I have is this defibrillator that puts out 1000v. Let’s give it go!
You may have fried the circuits. I think the reason it didn’t work is you might have had the welder amperage on too high. It works for me and phone / camera batteries when I connect a 9v battery for 30-40 secs. It is a technique that is used to forcibly charge the battery when the peak charger won’t. Nickel cadmium batteries need to hold a slight charge in order for the peak charger to start charging them.
It worked! Did it with 12V few amps car battery charger.
Without any Personnal Protective Equipment, if the battery blows up in your face , is there a possibility of injury ??
You should only need to flash it and try it with pos and neg the other way round. I have revived my dewalt nickel metal batteries, they are 24 v
This might be a good (bad idea) Band Aid type fix to get you through a job, but it won't last. There is good news though. Many tool manufacturers are making Lithium Ion conversion kits for their older tools that many of us are not yet ready to part with. These upgrades are much less expensive than replacing the entire tool, and they will last a very long time.
I've bought a couple of knock of, s from ebay and they are working well
It's supposed to be quick zaps. Not a prolonged contact. It's to break up the fibres that grow across the field in the cells.
What you can do is get a cheap Aldi or Lidl battery and undo them and swap them over, to be honest there tends to only be 3 or so out the whole lot that is shot , check the ones that are 1.7 and they are the good ones, hopefully the one that sits on top won’t be one of them “ which would save on work” but easy to do and check out how to use a cheap capacitor to do the welds “ about £3 each , all the batteries in all of these tend to be the same,
All you do is blow the protection circuitry. The myth is that it destroys the "tendrils" that cause Nicad to fails.
This DOESN'T work. All you do is risk having batteries explode in your face.
Lucky to still have 2 hands
It works using a car battery charger but don't hold them on the plus and minus, all you've got to do is break the build up of crystals that cause a battery to short out. Hold the minus on then zap the plus about 10 quick times to break the built-up crystals to break. It's worked on almost all my Ni-Cad batteries and a few nimh ones. Just be careful not to hold it on for too long. It'll reset back to factory condition. I've been hunting out all my Ni-Cad batteries.
Cindy's husband Carl here. A 12-volt lead acid battery, that has what you're talking about. It is called suffocation, it slowly fills in the plates like dirt does in an air filter, making it a smaller and smaller filter. The same goes for this 12 volt battery, it just becomes a smaller battery until it can't take a charge anymore. The way around some of this is, a 1 amp overcharge from 14 .4 or 7 t o 15.1 2 15 point 8. Depending up on these specific gravity of each cell meaning 1.265, the sales must balance out check this overcharge about every couple hours with specific gravity readings if these readings do not balance keep the charge going it could take 16 hours if after that time your battery won't come back you either have one or more bad cells but either way we'll burn away this off of vacation which is a crystal build-up what keeps the elect whatever they call him electrons passing through the plates to give you the voltage in the average that you need for running your vehicle okay good, knowledge is power.
Zap them with car battery charger it does work. I'm not pulling anybodies chain like some idiots who fool people into believing your Internet goes faster by folding ethernet cable (tit). Best one so far is a far in a bottle for sale on EBay! !!!
Knowledge is cheap and cheerful.
I read again Carl. Nicad batteries I'm on about. 12v car charger, nagative to negative get positive to touch positive quick consecutive touches. 10 times ( just to round the number up) does the job.
Carl here. Yeah I've seen what you're talking about I've done gutter work and use those tools a lot in construction. So yeah I've seen that, just pulling the battery in and out of the charger 4 unplugging the charger in and out real fast. But after a while it seemed they didn't hold much of a charge and went right back to their problem cuz that was on the other batteries I don't know about the batteries you're talking about and that's okay best to you bye.
I can't ain't got a car but it gave me a good giggle. Pity I really could do with my strimmer battery charging. The worst part hardly bloody used it.
...nor decent grammar.
nice to see you give it a go theres a lot of angry people out there sad cheers
Just burns off threads of metal between plates in the cell, sometimes it works. Been doing it to AA ones for years.
I can appreciate this how to vid. I'm looking at two dead batteries that I have here. I may still try this method with a 12volt battery. Thanks Bud. Cheers !!***.
I would be worried it would explode! A friend of mine had a tractor battery explode and a piece of the plastic from the battery hit him in the head pretty bad!😵
That would be lead acid - and they give off hydrogen which is highly explosive. Really different technology.
@@paulrobinson9318 ok☺
@@paulrobinson9318 you're absolutely right about the difference. I was just thinking though, that some batteries have warnings on them about possibly exploding. They're the non chargable ones, I know, but with the welding rods, there's no way to know what voltage you're hitting that battery with! I would definitely wear a face mask if I tried it!☺
An easier way to do this 'resurrection' is to first discharge the old battery. Then put it in the freezer over night. Place your charger upside down beneath a shelf or whatever and tape the battery in upside down. Next take a strong magnet and fix it under the battery, then plug it in until charged. This will change the poles inside the battery and it will be like new.
I tried jacking the last battery with 120 volts like the guy did with his welder and the f'er just blew up in my face. I had a ski mask on so I'm ok.
Bloody genius, all my old tools are working again, even the tools which I bought to replace the ones that weren't working, what the he'll am I going to do with all of these tools now 🤣
when the battery is not used the voltage gradually drops. If it drops to low the supplied battery charger has a low voltage cutout which stops it charging the battery , all you needed to do is raise the voltage slightly to allow the charger to cut in. You can do that with a ordinary car battery charger or a variable volt power source . www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/variable-power-supply
I have done this and it did work...of course the battery has to be disassembled to bypass the voltage/charging circuitry...but it does work if the battery is still good.
@@majwor3763 as you say IF the battery is still good , only deeply dischared
Exactly what I done now got 3 dud batteries running again which lay in the shed for 5 years
I have Worx lawn trimmers that use the type of battery in the video. I had a few that I was able to charge for 6 years, and now I'm lucky if a can get two seasons out of them.
I call this CHAOS CONDITIONING, I use household juice most of the time
Thing was you didn't show the 2nd one charge first if it is also altenatingly blinking. What you did was you shock right away the 2nd one.
so what is your point?
Jumping the battery( while on the charger )with an additional small regular 9 volt dollar store battery will sometimes force activate the charger and begin recharging a battery that's been left discharged for too long.A pack which contains a shorted or otherwise damaged battery should be discarded.These packs typically contain multiple cells which will explode & burn non stop if subjected to higher current from a non standard charger ., & worse yet they will give no warning ,or even a higher temperature on the case than a new battery running the drill (or whatever ) under load.I subjected one to force charging ,at a higher rate ,& the cells started to explode together & in sequence & would not stop !The smoldering result was shovelled into a bucket of water at a distance.I fortunately knew of this possibility beforehand & now you do too! So take the necessary precautions!
I have tried voltages up to 2x the rated of the battery. None work. To make it work!.... remove batteries, solder 6 foot 14 ga extension stranded wire and connect to external small batteries! Charge with Harbor freight 12v trickle charger. Works all day on one charge! The batteries cost a third what the originals cost.
Open up the batteries and replace from one battery the cells that are dead to make one good battery
For a 36v bosch battery wich charges but only lasts 1mn where can i buy the cells or how do i repair it?
CMAenergy you are correct I like that bro