Hi , thanks for one of the most informative and clear instructions on brake replacement I watched your front brake clip and can honestly say your instructions were perfect and replaced my rotors and pads over a slowish 2 hour period I'm now going to do the rears after watching this clip Thanks for the excellent and clear no BS step by step instructions Your mate from Australia
Hi just finished replacing the rear pads on my SQ5' It was funny( in a good way) That I had your video playing in the back ground as a reference Thanks mate, your video made the task look simple and in the end I was satisfying and the job was top notch. Thanks again👍
Great DIY. Very educational. Just the rear sensor needs pushed it till it clicks. It might come loose if you just slide it in the slot in the brake pad.
Just did my front rotors and pads with Akebono ceramics and I'm noticing a stronger than previous smell even after a couple hours of driving. Do the Akebono pads always have a slight smell to them after use in your experience? Great video, I'm on to the rears tonight!
@@AudiC7Owners Interesting. I've heard others comment on the smell, but most people said it went away after an hour of driving or so. Maybe it's a coating on my Stoptech rotors then.
Did you connect a trickle charger for the battery when you do this? I see on rosstech that it recommends using one while you have the electronic park break in service mode.
awesome tutorial! Thanks for all the knowledge. would you suggest going the extra mile and replace caliper guide pin and boots on both front and rear when changing out the pads and rotors on my 2018 C7.5 A7?
My piston wont compress. Im using the loaner tool from Auto zone. I followed all your instructions but i cant.compress the piston. Not sure whats the problem?
@@AudiC7Owners yes correct. When i watch the piston when I click the replace/retract button the piston doesn't really retract fully. Then when i use the tool it feels too stuck to bulge.
So the electric parking brake thing doesn't retract the actual piston. Retract the parking brake, then compress the piston. If you are doing that and it's still stuck then something is wrong
@@AudiC7Owners So the piston wasn't retracting with obd or manually. So after some research people said the piston can come out of the socket if twisted counter clockwise. I tightened it back into the socket with the manual tool. Reengaged the EPB to retract, then manually continued to retract further. I was able to fully retract it with a lot of manual labor. Your video was a lot of help, besides my personal issue, your instructions are always spot on. Thanks for your help!
Do you think I could turn the car off and disconnect my vagcom after I release the park brake so I can paint my calipers and let them dry for 24 hours? Then come back a few days later to finish?
Not any that are in this price range. & honestly for a street car it doesn't make a lot of difference between slotted vs drilled as long as they are quality parts
cant you just start the car and turn the parking brake off? I didn't see a need to do anything with the parking brake in other videos. Mine is a 2012 A7.
No. The piston needs to be fully retracted. Not sure what other videos you are watching, but if you don't retract the piston you aren't going to have a good time.
I know this is probably too late for you, but in case anyone else sees this and doesn't have either vcds or obd11, you can do it without, but you have to take the electric motor off of the caliper and manually retract the piston using a T40 bit. It took me a long time to figure out when I did my rear brakes.
@@bakler5 Yes this is the way. There are also videos that show people retracting them with a 9-volt battery but it's easier to just take the little motor off (carefully) and manually rewind them with a T40. I think it's easier that using OBD11 etc.
it actually called obd2 ,not obd11 . great video though. one other tip is ,you should crack open the bleed nipple before you remove the caliper,then imedietally lock it up. then when you remove the caliper ,clamp the brake rubber hose, attach a hose onto the nipple and open the nipple just as you wind the piston back. that way you just bleed the dirty fluid that is inside the caliper itself. when the piston is fully back, just lock the nipple closed. the clamp stops any dirty fluid returning back down the brake line and 99% of the time the brake don't need to be bled. no air has been introduced into the system because you have clamped the rubber hose right beside the caliper and you have bled the dirty fluid out thru the bleed nipple. no need to open the brake fluid resivoir until you are finally finished and then top it up, pump the pedal and you are done. good video.
Obd11 = OBD eleven. It's a tool used to perform diagnostic functions on the car including the release of the electronic rear parking brake. And doing it this way doesn't introduce any air into the system either. I didn't need to bleed anything afterwards.
sorry mate.theres no such thing as obd 11(eleven) it hasnt been invented yet. obd11=obd2. and yes you probably didnt introduce any air into the system, but you most likely just pushed the dirty fluid back up the brake lines.that to me is just a lazy way of doing things , best practice is to crack open the bleed nipple and drain the dirty fluid out. but each to their own.
Dude... You really shouldn't argue about things without even googling. obdeleven.com/en/ And my brake performance is spot on so I'm not worried about it. Doing it this way is the normal way to change brake pads/rotors. Eventually I'll do a full brake fluid change.
@@AudiC7Owners obd11(eleven) is just the brand name/ trademark of a website.the actual operating system thats designed to diagnose dtc's in yor car/van/truck is called obd2. like first one was obd1,next generation obd 2,the next one will more than likely be called obd 3.
Everyone knows that. I don't know why you are arguing with me. I'm not trying to say the system in the car isn't ob2. What are you trying to do right now lol?
I love this channel,please keep up the good work.I really need a channel like this in my life
Thank you!
Hi , thanks for one of the most informative and clear instructions on brake replacement
I watched your front brake clip and can honestly say your instructions were perfect and replaced my rotors and pads over a slowish 2 hour period
I'm now going to do the rears after watching this clip
Thanks for the excellent and clear no BS step by step instructions
Your mate from Australia
Thanks man 🤘🏻🤘🏻 Good luck on the rears!
Hi just finished replacing the rear pads on my SQ5' It was funny( in a good way) That I had your video playing in the back ground as a reference
Thanks mate, your video made the task look simple and in the end I was satisfying and the job was top notch.
Thanks again👍
Great DIY.
Very educational. Just the rear sensor needs pushed it till it clicks. It might come loose if you just slide it in the slot in the brake pad.
Thanks man!
Step 1: Get the set screw blasted on PBR (clearly a man of culture!)
😂😂😂
Can you tell I was looking forward to my "Job-Well-Done" reward? 😂
If the wife complains I'm telling her to watch the video, the instructions clearly call for PBR.
Just did my front rotors and pads with Akebono ceramics and I'm noticing a stronger than previous smell even after a couple hours of driving. Do the Akebono pads always have a slight smell to them after use in your experience? Great video, I'm on to the rears tonight!
Honestly I haven't noticed any smell at all
@@AudiC7Owners Interesting. I've heard others comment on the smell, but most people said it went away after an hour of driving or so. Maybe it's a coating on my Stoptech rotors then.
Perfect for explaining everything
Thank you!
Did you connect a trickle charger for the battery when you do this? I see on rosstech that it recommends using one while you have the electronic park break in service mode.
No.
Question. Why is obdeleven required ? When you disengage the parking brake from the car does it not fully retract it back?
It does not.
awesome tutorial! Thanks for all the knowledge. would you suggest going the extra mile and replace caliper guide pin and boots on both front and rear when changing out the pads and rotors on my 2018 C7.5 A7?
Unless they look like they need to be replaced then it shouldn't be necessary
I noticed you didn't use any anti seize on the hub, is it not recommended
You can, but I live in the southeast and have never needed it.
Great video. Do you have a link to the caliper compression tool you used?
It's a random one I bought on Amazon. Nothing special.
My piston wont compress. Im using the loaner tool from Auto zone. I followed all your instructions but i cant.compress the piston. Not sure whats the problem?
Just to make sure, you did open the cap to your brake fluid reservoir before you tried to compress the piston, correct?
@@AudiC7Owners yes correct. When i watch the piston when I click the replace/retract button the piston doesn't really retract fully. Then when i use the tool it feels too stuck to bulge.
So the electric parking brake thing doesn't retract the actual piston.
Retract the parking brake, then compress the piston.
If you are doing that and it's still stuck then something is wrong
@@AudiC7Owners So the piston wasn't retracting with obd or manually. So after some research people said the piston can come out of the socket if twisted counter clockwise. I tightened it back into the socket with the manual tool. Reengaged the EPB to retract, then manually continued to retract further. I was able to fully retract it with a lot of manual labor.
Your video was a lot of help, besides my personal issue, your instructions are always spot on. Thanks for your help!
Awesome. Glad you got it sorted
Have you thought about painting your calipers ? I’m thinking about doing it this summer
Yep. Gonna do it when the temperature gets warmer.
Do you think I could turn the car off and disconnect my vagcom after I release the park brake so I can paint my calipers and let them dry for 24 hours? Then come back a few days later to finish?
Yes. Shouldn't be a problem
@@AudiC7Owners I followed your video and went great. Only thing I added antiseize to the hub before installing the rotor.
You have any links for a good slotted set
Not any that are in this price range. & honestly for a street car it doesn't make a lot of difference between slotted vs drilled as long as they are quality parts
cant you just start the car and turn the parking brake off? I didn't see a need to do anything with the parking brake in other videos. Mine is a 2012 A7.
No. The piston needs to be fully retracted. Not sure what other videos you are watching, but if you don't retract the piston you aren't going to have a good time.
@@AudiC7Owners After trying trying trying, I finally ordered an ODBeleven. LOL
Do i have to use that brake grease? it is good for what?
It's highly recommended so you're brake pads don't sieze to your calipers.
Is this the same process for a 4.0t S7 C7?
It will be similar. But the S7 has brembos which remove differently.
Is there any other way to retract the rear brake without using a obd scanner?
I know this is probably too late for you, but in case anyone else sees this and doesn't have either vcds or obd11, you can do it without, but you have to take the electric motor off of the caliper and manually retract the piston using a T40 bit. It took me a long time to figure out when I did my rear brakes.
@@bakler5 Yes this is the way. There are also videos that show people retracting them with a 9-volt battery but it's easier to just take the little motor off (carefully) and manually rewind them with a T40. I think it's easier that using OBD11 etc.
it actually called obd2 ,not obd11 . great video though. one other tip is ,you should crack open the bleed nipple before you remove the caliper,then imedietally lock it up. then when you remove the caliper ,clamp the brake rubber hose, attach a hose onto the nipple and open the nipple just as you wind the piston back. that way you just bleed the dirty fluid that is inside the caliper itself. when the piston is fully back, just lock the nipple closed. the clamp stops any dirty fluid returning back down the brake line and 99% of the time the brake don't need to be bled. no air has been introduced into the system because you have clamped the rubber hose right beside the caliper and you have bled the dirty fluid out thru the bleed nipple. no need to open the brake fluid resivoir until you are finally finished and then top it up, pump the pedal and you are done. good video.
Obd11 = OBD eleven. It's a tool used to perform diagnostic functions on the car including the release of the electronic rear parking brake.
And doing it this way doesn't introduce any air into the system either. I didn't need to bleed anything afterwards.
sorry mate.theres no such thing as obd 11(eleven) it hasnt been invented yet. obd11=obd2. and yes you probably didnt introduce any air into the system, but you most likely just pushed the dirty fluid back up the brake lines.that to me is just a lazy way of doing things , best practice is to crack open the bleed nipple and drain the dirty fluid out. but each to their own.
Dude... You really shouldn't argue about things without even googling.
obdeleven.com/en/
And my brake performance is spot on so I'm not worried about it. Doing it this way is the normal way to change brake pads/rotors. Eventually I'll do a full brake fluid change.
@@AudiC7Owners obd11(eleven) is just the brand name/ trademark of a website.the actual operating system thats designed to diagnose dtc's in yor car/van/truck is called obd2. like first one was obd1,next generation obd 2,the next one will more than likely be called obd 3.
Everyone knows that. I don't know why you are arguing with me. I'm not trying to say the system in the car isn't ob2. What are you trying to do right now lol?