Thanks for posting this video. Helped me get my rack and pinion out. I was getting hung up on that piece that’s held in with the wire. Turns out, once you get the wire you you just have to be a man about it and pull that thing out.
For the Rack Guide Nut get bolt with 2 nuts that will fit inside the Allen portion of the Rack Guide nut and weld the nuts unto the bolts. Then use the corresponding socket to do your stuff. Works like a charm, even with impacts :)
You pulled out that shaft so easy. Mine on my mini cooper has a bearing holding it in, and the opposite side no cap to unscrew and pound it out. How do I pull that out?
Great video...pretty simple job. Rebuilt R&P approx $150 to $300, rebuild seals & parts $30. All pinion gears require preload: differential, rack & pinion steering, etc. Question where do I find the value for preload on Toyota Lexus/Camry 2006?
Thanks for video..does it look like the line outlet nipples could be cut off, new holes drilled clocked differently and them re-welded in new location? The lines are in the way on my engine swap..
Does anyone know the name of the tool that he doesn't use at the 6:00 mark? I would prefer to use the actual tool, instead of chipping away at it with a screwdriver, same to tighten it.
@@raykampwerth3928 need to be the correct size. The pin wrench is a C shaped with a hinged side that is adjustable. Hook it and turn. So many buy a rebuilt without knowing its only $20-30 in seals and 1 hour on the bench. Just like an alternator, cheap as hell to rebuild.
@@PoormanscarGarage unfortunately it is leaking.. I was considering ordering a remanufactured one, but there’s Detroit axle, BBB Vision OE, and Cardone. I’ve read awful reviews for all of them... I don’t want to waste my money but I can’t afford to do a lot.
I've heard if the steering wheel is crooked significantly, it is certainly a problem w/power steering rack (as far as I understand the problem can't be fixed then just by simply moving in and out Outer Tie Rods in corresponding directions). Mine is crooked ~45 degrees to the right, no steering fluid leeks observed (I saw some fluid inside of the boot ~ 8 months ago, when changed Inner TR (on driver side only, on passenger it was dry), but I think it is very small, since the fluid level doesn't change). I don't remember when that problem w/crooked wheel developed, I don't drive that car a lot, but I hit a limiting concrete bar, which they conveniently locate at some parking lots, 4-5 days ago, and noticed 45 degrees after that event. So what can happen to a steering rack, what can be wrong, if no leak observed? Did that rebuilt kit you used came w/any diagram? It would be handy to have. The car is 2003 Chevy Cavalier. Thank you very much for the informative film.
@@PoormanscarGarage Thanks a lot! Most likely it is. Yesterday I was able to see w/flashlight (fm top of the engine bay) that the wider part of the boot (on the driver side) is not attached to the rack anymore and some teeth are seen. Probably it is very hard to move that skipped tooth back. I have no clue how to do it, I'll try to google youtube. Or now to change the rack? Thank you again. I did some rather complicated projects on that car (replacement of Inner, Outer TRs, Ball Joints, even removed rivets at some points (to have lower control arms w/option to change Ball Joints)), but never knew that the tooth of a rack can be skipped. But how to know for sure that it was skipped or not, should be some alignment marks on the Rack, but where they are?
@@PoormanscarGarage I know already: to remove the steering shaft from the rack peg, rotate the peg (release the Inner TRs, probably otherwise it won't be possible), attach the shaft back, yes?
@@PoormanscarGarage Fortunately I didn't start yet (couldn't find the boot clamps). I'll put the clamp for Axle Boots. I put one on the passenger side and it is still there. See I didn't know that those large clamps for the Axle boots and not for the Rack boots and installed them before on 2001 Saturn, and on one side of Chevy later, then discovered that it was wrong, installed the right one. I'm thinking now to use just those large Axle clamps for the future (I cut them and smooth the cut side w/file). I'll check on that possibility of broken tooth. Thank you kindly for spending that much time for my questions, very kind of you.
great video for learning the anatomy of power steering rack and seals,etc
tnx bud
M@@PoormanscarGarage
Thanks for posting this video. Helped me get my rack and pinion out. I was getting hung up on that piece that’s held in with the wire. Turns out, once you get the wire you you just have to be a man about it and pull that thing out.
am glad i helped bud, make sure u sub for more videos, thanks ^^
Great video to learn repair of the power steering rack. Thank you.
Made it look easy. I'll still F it up proper but 3rd times a charm.
Takes a while bud, having right tools helps
Not every Teflon seal has a rubber O-ring underneath but check carefully to be sure.
How do you replace the Teflon washer on tge shaft as it can't stretch?
Seems like a very complicated process, you need to do lots of photos to make. Thanks man..
It's easy with right tools
Might make another video with more details
Mines had a solid pin to the control cylinder, and I couldn’t get to the seal, but it was still good. So assemble it all together lol
For the Rack Guide Nut get bolt with 2 nuts that will fit inside the Allen portion of the Rack Guide nut and weld the nuts unto the bolts. Then use the corresponding socket to do your stuff. Works like a charm, even with impacts :)
Suppose some idiot (me) got a piece of a rag stuck inside of his from the high pressure hoses. Any advice?
You pulled out that shaft so easy. Mine on my mini cooper has a bearing holding it in, and the opposite side no cap to unscrew and pound it out. How do I pull that out?
Some of those are no longer repairable unless you cut into it try searching on UA-cam for your specific model
What kind of gloves r those
Great video...pretty simple job. Rebuilt R&P approx $150 to $300, rebuild seals & parts $30. All pinion gears require preload: differential, rack & pinion steering, etc. Question where do I find the value for preload on Toyota Lexus/Camry 2006?
thanks, am not sure where to find it, maybe google can help
Thanks for the tutorial! I was wondering how to get the lock ring out of the passenger side end of the housing.
there is tool for it but am sure u can use washer and longer bolt
Thanks for video..does it look like the line outlet nipples could be cut off, new holes drilled clocked differently and them re-welded in new location? The lines are in the way on my engine swap..
you can and also add a AN fittings
@@PoormanscarGarage cool thanks
Sera el mismo presedimiento para un 2007 beetle 2.5
Cool video man!
thanks bud
I really enjoyed your video bud
Thanks
Does anyone know the name of the tool that he doesn't use at the 6:00 mark? I would prefer to use the actual tool, instead of chipping away at it with a screwdriver, same to tighten it.
bud its called "face pin wrench" thanks for watching
Prolly use a cutoff wheel wrench
@@raykampwerth3928 need to be the correct size. The pin wrench is a C shaped with a hinged side that is adjustable. Hook it and turn. So many buy a rebuilt without knowing its only $20-30 in seals and 1 hour on the bench. Just like an alternator, cheap as hell to rebuild.
What if my boots are torn? Do I just replace inner tie rods along with rebuild kit?
Just replace boots if it's not leaking don't go too deep if it's not going bad
@@PoormanscarGarage unfortunately it is leaking.. I was considering ordering a remanufactured one, but there’s Detroit axle, BBB Vision OE, and Cardone. I’ve read awful reviews for all of them... I don’t want to waste my money but I can’t afford to do a lot.
@@truthseeker1203 I have used Detroit axle and still holding no problem good price and also good customer support
@@PoormanscarGarage okay what about cv axles on rockauto? I need front right on 97 accord. Any brands you recommend?
@@truthseeker1203 bud I have been buying from rockauto since 2016 never had any problem I always go for cheaper ;) eBay is good too
Was the first thing removed, pinion?
Thanks for the video!
I've heard if the steering wheel is crooked significantly, it is certainly a problem w/power steering rack (as far as I understand the problem can't be fixed then just by simply moving in and out Outer Tie Rods in corresponding directions). Mine is crooked ~45 degrees to the right, no steering fluid leeks observed (I saw some fluid inside of the boot ~ 8 months ago, when changed Inner TR (on driver side only, on passenger it was dry), but I think it is very small, since the fluid level doesn't change). I don't remember when that problem w/crooked wheel developed, I don't drive that car a lot, but I hit a limiting concrete bar, which they conveniently locate at some parking lots, 4-5 days ago, and noticed 45 degrees after that event. So what can happen to a steering rack, what can be wrong, if no leak observed?
Did that rebuilt kit you used came w/any diagram? It would be handy to have.
The car is 2003 Chevy Cavalier. Thank you very much for the informative film.
check your steering wheel bar that goes to the steering rack it is possible coz of impact it skiped some tooth
@@PoormanscarGarage Thanks a lot! Most likely it is. Yesterday I was able to see w/flashlight (fm top of the engine bay) that the wider part of the boot (on the driver side) is not attached to the rack anymore and some teeth are seen. Probably it is very hard to move that skipped tooth back. I have no clue how to do it, I'll try to google youtube. Or now to change the rack? Thank you again. I did some rather complicated projects on that car (replacement of Inner, Outer TRs, Ball Joints, even removed rivets at some points (to have lower control arms w/option to change Ball Joints)), but never knew that the tooth of a rack can be skipped. But how to know for sure that it was skipped or not, should be some alignment marks on the Rack, but where they are?
@@PoormanscarGarage I know already: to remove the steering shaft from the rack peg, rotate the peg (release the Inner TRs, probably otherwise it won't be possible), attach the shaft back, yes?
@@olenaerhardt7725 yes teeth might be broken just check
@@PoormanscarGarage Fortunately I didn't start yet (couldn't find the boot clamps). I'll put the clamp for Axle Boots. I put one on the passenger side and it is still there. See I didn't know that those large clamps for the Axle boots and not for the Rack boots and installed them before on 2001 Saturn, and on one side of Chevy later, then discovered that it was wrong, installed the right one. I'm thinking now to use just those large Axle clamps for the future (I cut them and smooth the cut side w/file). I'll check on that possibility of broken tooth. Thank you kindly for spending that much time for my questions, very kind of you.
Can the inner deal taken out with a socketsome videos show it can
which inner deal :)
I would wind in the shaft all the way on steering rack if you damage shaft it will never seal again
subd bruh, that PS rack is from what car model?
It's from Mitsubishi eclipse 2g gs
@@PoormanscarGarage thanks for confirming bro
When I work for Mercedes we had to rebuild rocket minions. .
I am the mechanic of the power steering box
good
use a vice bro.....hahahaha