OMG!!! THE FREAK’N JET NEEDLE!!! YOU JUST SAVED MY LIFE MAN!! I have been thru my carb a million times and I was ready to throw in the towel on the whole damn bike out of sheer frustration. There is no reason my Vulcan 1500 should be running so rich and crappy. I went through every single vacuum hose every single part of the carb, air box, air cleaners, compression checks, diaphragms, choke, throttle cables, tank vents, caps… you name it I checked it and cleaned it or replaced it. I never knew the needle jet was in there just like you stated! $50 mistake and I am glad to pay it but dagum.. not 1 single mention of this on any of the dozens of forum posts I read. THANK YOU SIR!!!!! YOU ARE THE MAN!!! A+++ video my man!
Thanks for posting. Helped me so much. You should make one for reassembly of forks. Ive got a bucket of rings,bushings and bolts all nice and clean but how and where is another thing.
Sometimes the best place to go in a situation like this, even if you have a manual, is the parts fiche. Most of the big on-line stores have them, but I like Partzilla. You have to sign up and make an account, but I think it's worth it. When you OEM buy stuff their prices are pretty good, too. The parts fiches are often better than the diagrams in the manual and you can zoom in and out and see what aprts are called. Here's the parts fiche for the '09 fork: www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Kawasaki/Motorcycle/2009/KLE650A9F+Versys/FRONT+FORK/parts.html If you have a Gen 1 you can navigate back to the beginning and select an '07. Tom
I took note of the amount of down force you used when removing the pilot jet. My screw driver did not fit fully down into the stock pilot jet slot. It only engaged half of the depth of the slot on the pilot jet. I did not use enough down force like you did and small pieces at the top of the jet at the slot sheared off. On my second attempt I used much more down force and it "snapped" loose. I matched up my screw driver to the jet and the screw driver did not fit fully down into the slot.
few... You scared the crap out of me with the (silver) "jet needle" part at 2:35 in the video... Because mine is actually copper in color, it could be brass.. But mine did not fall out, as well as I cant seem to push it out, but it appears to be very clean, SO I'm not going to risk damaging something by prying with a metal tool in there I'll leave it be.. lol I actually pulled my entire carb out to re-adjust the float height so I searched for this jet needle while I was in there and wasn't sure til coming back to the video. I feel better now knowing I did not lose it.. (* I should note I have a 34mm Keihin CVK carb off a snow mobile, so its not this carb in the video, nor is it the original carb to my KL250-D15... thus, it is not a CVK34 either... it just happens to be roughly 34mm-35mm ish, I cant identify it with the serial number stamped on the side as the internet seems to think it does not exist, but I ordered a brand new old stock CVK34 to replace this carb as its the closest that I could find, the jetting will be different however. (But from what I understand the post 80's KLR250's had the carbs downgraded for emissions standards wich was the reasoning for the snowmobile carb) WICH is great, but I'm struggling to get it to run correctly, seems to be too rich from 1500-2500.. either way I'll keep playing with it til the new CVK34 comes, wich should be the correct carb for a 250cc Kawi engine.
The OEM ones are silver. The brass ones come in some carburetor rebuild kits, most notably the Sumo kits. While I have a couple of the brass ones laying around, I have never used one. I did measure on and they are a perfect match. There is nothing about them that makes removing them especially important for cleaning. The real point is that they tend to fall out and disappear while folks aren't looking! The engine just won't run well at all without that piece. Regards, Tom
Meh, maybe yes, maybe no. The screws on the bottom of the carb (and on the top) are a JIS screw. That's the Japanese version of Phillips. They are just different enough from Phillips that it's easy to strip them using a Phillips screwdriver. If you have a rather short JIS screwdriver, no problem. Just rotate the carb so that you can get at the bottom and remove the screws, then replace the gasket and back it goes. Good idea to replace the JIS screws with cap screws at that time. Without a JIS screwdriver, what you can do is take a good quality Phillips that is not worn, blunt the tip just a bit, dip the tip in oil and then in a bit of fine sand, apply a fair amount of pressure and carefully break the screw loose. Some hints: I like to use a drywall screw bit that and a wrench like this one www.vimtools.com/Large/hbr3.jpg. I found a no-name version of this wrench at OSH for just a few bucks. I think Lowes has a Kobalt version and Craftsman makes a version. I dip the bit in valve lapping compound, which is basically oil and grit. Usually works. If you strip them out, then the carb will have to come out so that you can put it on the bench and cut slots in the screws for a straight screwdriver. Honestly, unless someone else has been in there they usually aren't in that tight. but best to be prepared for the worst and have the suggested tools on hand. Did you look at the 22 cent mod video? There are some tips there on how to turn the carburetor both ways while on the bike. Good luck, Tom
This carb kit www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20that%20i%20think%20about/sumo-carb-kit-helpswrestling-with-the-cvk40 has a new jet needle in it. The kit costs about $27, shipped, www.sumomotoparts.com/collections/carburetor-kit-1/products/kawasaki-high-quality-carburetor-rebuild-carb-repair-kit-klr-650-1987-2007 If you want OEM, that will run you about $40, shipped www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/16017-1254?ref=f5a51934edbdf7d00e345a3099d89c611a1a18ed#
@souperdoo After the needle jet is in place the emulsifier tube sticks out a little more when tight. Maybe I’m paranoid, but it looks like it’s sticking out more than yours in this vid. You think this an issue? : photos.app.goo.gl/dvDjqmhLZaz9sFVE7
Did you just use water to rinse off the pine sol? Would you suggest rinsing the body/jets etc in gasoline? Thanks again! P.s what do you use for grease on your o-rings?
A water rinse is sufficient, just blow everything out with compressed air. I wouldn't use gas - not necessary and it's messy and smelly. Silicone grease should be used on o-rings. A petroleum grease may make them gummy and they may swell up. Tom
souperdoo Thanks a lot Tom! I made the mistake of soaking it overnight in water. There was rusty water on the pooled on the butterfly valve when I woke up. There is a bit of surface rust on the screws on the butterfly, and its a little sticky when first opening it. Is this a problem? I've heard that about petroleum products in regards to o-rings, which is why I've been very cautious. I have some dielectric grease I'll use. Thanks again. I really appreciate the help.
march11stoneytony The butterfly works against a pretty stiff spring, so it shouldn't be a real problem. Clean everything off well and put a drop of 3-in-1 or other light oil on the butterfly shaft. It should work itself out. Tom
Yes, as far as I know the Harley part is a direct replacement. We've found that some of the parts on the Sportster carb are NOT a direct replacement (if I recall correctly, the collar is different), the the diaphragm is. The Harley store will also have some larger pilot jets, which you may find you need if you've moved to a very free flowing exhaust and aren't able to tune out the decel popping.
Is this the same carb that came on the Vulcan 800? Looking to buying one and have been doing lots of research on carbs as my current bike is efi just preparing to tinker with it lol thanks in advance great videos btw!
Hi Jose, Yes, it is pretty much the same carb. The carb on the 800 is a pumper carb with the pump being located at the bowl. There is a linkage to operate the pump. Outside of that, it is the same carb with some differences in drillings here and there. From a rebuild standpoint, no differences other than the pump. Tom
i do have a long needle hanging on the bowl, you don't. should i remove it? Because i can't fix the fuel leaking out of the overflow while the engine is running. Already replaced the float + needle
Tibor, If you are referring to a bowl overflow tube (like in this article: www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20that%20i%20think%20about/installing-a-carburetor-bowl-overflow-pipe-no-fear-of-fuel-hydrolock) then, no, you must not remove that. If you do the fuel will run freely from the bottom of the bowl. You say that you have replaced the float and needle but if it is still overflowing then the needle is not seating and sealing. You probably need to remove the bowl, the float and needle, and gently clean and polish the needle seat. That is the brass bit that is installed in the carburetor body. They can get a build-up of solids on them that will prevent the needle from sealing.
+souperdoo well speed always gets me anyways i used to have a ktm exc 450 id rater go on trails and up mountains and shit race bikes are heavy and stupid that bike im always pissed
You can, but if you're going to go for something other than PineSol (a green solution; think of the children and the whales) you should consider a true carburetor cleaner. Gas is going to stink. Carb cleaner stinks, too, but it works much better than gas for cleaning stuff. Just keep anything that isn't metal out of it. Tom
I like to use paint thinner as solvent ...not as noxious or as flammable as gasoline ...even coleman fuel is preferred to using just gas ...in my opinion
It shouldn't be! There is really nothing that would seize the pin. Look to see if, for some reason, the pin has been staked in place. It might be that some ethanol has gunked things up. Place some drops of carb cleaner on the pin where it passes through the carb body and let it sit for a while. It should free up.
OMG!!! THE FREAK’N JET NEEDLE!!! YOU JUST SAVED MY LIFE MAN!! I have been thru my carb a million times and I was ready to throw in the towel on the whole damn bike out of sheer frustration. There is no reason my Vulcan 1500 should be running so rich and crappy. I went through every single vacuum hose every single part of the carb, air box, air cleaners, compression checks, diaphragms, choke, throttle cables, tank vents, caps… you name it I checked it and cleaned it or replaced it. I never knew the needle jet was in there just like you stated! $50 mistake and I am glad to pay it but dagum.. not 1 single mention of this on any of the dozens of forum posts I read. THANK YOU SIR!!!!! YOU ARE THE MAN!!! A+++ video my man!
Steve,
I'm glad you found the issue! Those things are sneaky little devils...
Tom
Thanks for posting.
Helped me so much.
You should make one for reassembly of forks. Ive got a bucket of rings,bushings and bolts all nice and clean but how and where is another thing.
Sometimes the best place to go in a situation like this, even if you have a manual, is the parts fiche. Most of the big on-line stores have them, but I like Partzilla. You have to sign up and make an account, but I think it's worth it. When you OEM buy stuff their prices are pretty good, too.
The parts fiches are often better than the diagrams in the manual and you can zoom in and out and see what aprts are called.
Here's the parts fiche for the '09 fork: www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Kawasaki/Motorcycle/2009/KLE650A9F+Versys/FRONT+FORK/parts.html
If you have a Gen 1 you can navigate back to the beginning and select an '07.
Tom
Awesome step-by-step explanation. Thanks for it.
Thank you very much for these highly professional perfect productions . Could not hoped for more ....... and free ! Highly valued ! I'm inspired :)
Geoffrey -
Thanks for the compliment and I'm glad you found them useful
Regards,
Tom
I like to melt the plastic off a bread tie and use the wire. It's usually perfect size to stick through the tiny holes on pilot jets
This is a very excellent video series! Refreshing in a “hey, what’s up UA-cam?!” Environment!👍
I took note of the amount of down force you used when removing the pilot jet. My screw driver did not fit fully down into the stock pilot jet slot. It only engaged half of the depth of the slot on the pilot jet. I did not use enough down force like you did and small pieces at the top of the jet at the slot sheared off. On my second attempt I used much more down force and it "snapped" loose. I matched up my screw driver to the jet and the screw driver did not fit fully down into the slot.
This video is so good ..Thanks for putting it up...I learned so much that I hadn't thought of...thx
few... You scared the crap out of me with the (silver) "jet needle" part at 2:35 in the video... Because mine is actually copper in color, it could be brass.. But mine did not fall out, as well as I cant seem to push it out, but it appears to be very clean, SO I'm not going to risk damaging something by prying with a metal tool in there I'll leave it be.. lol I actually pulled my entire carb out to re-adjust the float height so I searched for this jet needle while I was in there and wasn't sure til coming back to the video. I feel better now knowing I did not lose it.. (* I should note I have a 34mm Keihin CVK carb off a snow mobile, so its not this carb in the video, nor is it the original carb to my KL250-D15... thus, it is not a CVK34 either... it just happens to be roughly 34mm-35mm ish, I cant identify it with the serial number stamped on the side as the internet seems to think it does not exist, but I ordered a brand new old stock CVK34 to replace this carb as its the closest that I could find, the jetting will be different however. (But from what I understand the post 80's KLR250's had the carbs downgraded for emissions standards wich was the reasoning for the snowmobile carb) WICH is great, but I'm struggling to get it to run correctly, seems to be too rich from 1500-2500.. either way I'll keep playing with it til the new CVK34 comes, wich should be the correct carb for a 250cc Kawi engine.
The OEM ones are silver. The brass ones come in some carburetor rebuild kits, most notably the Sumo kits. While I have a couple of the brass ones laying around, I have never used one. I did measure on and they are a perfect match.
There is nothing about them that makes removing them especially important for cleaning. The real point is that they tend to fall out and disappear while folks aren't looking!
The engine just won't run well at all without that piece.
Regards,
Tom
@@souperdoo That was an Incredibly fast response time. Thank you, I've gone ahead and subscribed.
@@gittyupalice96, I move at the speed of Tom. Sometimes that's fast but usually, it's not.
Great set of videos , I have a fuel seep( leak) around the float bowl. Do I have to remove the carb to replace the rubber gasket? Thanks
Meh, maybe yes, maybe no.
The screws on the bottom of the carb (and on the top) are a JIS screw. That's the Japanese version of Phillips.
They are just different enough from Phillips that it's easy to strip them using a Phillips screwdriver.
If you have a rather short JIS screwdriver, no problem. Just rotate the carb so that you can get at the bottom and remove the screws, then replace the gasket and back it goes. Good idea to replace the JIS screws with cap screws at that time.
Without a JIS screwdriver, what you can do is take a good quality Phillips that is not worn, blunt the tip just a bit, dip the tip in oil and then in a bit of fine sand, apply a fair amount of pressure and carefully break the screw loose.
Some hints: I like to use a drywall screw bit that and a wrench like this one www.vimtools.com/Large/hbr3.jpg. I found a no-name version of this wrench at OSH for just a few bucks. I think Lowes has a Kobalt version and Craftsman makes a version. I dip the bit in valve lapping compound, which is basically oil and grit. Usually works.
If you strip them out, then the carb will have to come out so that you can put it on the bench and cut slots in the screws for a straight screwdriver. Honestly, unless someone else has been in there they usually aren't in that tight. but best to be prepared for the worst and have the suggested tools on hand.
Did you look at the 22 cent mod video? There are some tips there on how to turn the carburetor both ways while on the bike.
Good luck,
Tom
I put the metal parts in pure pine sole. 100 % . So when I remove the parts tomorrow do I need to wash the pine sol off with water
Yes, thoroughly rinse them with clean, warm water.
Great vid! My jet needle is completely gone haha
This carb kit www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20that%20i%20think%20about/sumo-carb-kit-helpswrestling-with-the-cvk40 has a new jet needle in it. The kit costs about $27, shipped, www.sumomotoparts.com/collections/carburetor-kit-1/products/kawasaki-high-quality-carburetor-rebuild-carb-repair-kit-klr-650-1987-2007
If you want OEM, that will run you about $40, shipped www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/16017-1254?ref=f5a51934edbdf7d00e345a3099d89c611a1a18ed#
@@souperdoo Awesome! I had been looking for another source besides expensive OEM. Thanks!
@souperdoo After the needle jet is in place the emulsifier tube sticks out a little more when tight. Maybe I’m paranoid, but it looks like it’s sticking out more than yours in this vid. You think this an issue? : photos.app.goo.gl/dvDjqmhLZaz9sFVE7
Did you just use water to rinse off the pine sol? Would you suggest rinsing the body/jets etc in gasoline?
Thanks again!
P.s what do you use for grease on your o-rings?
A water rinse is sufficient, just blow everything out with compressed air. I wouldn't use gas - not necessary and it's messy and smelly.
Silicone grease should be used on o-rings. A petroleum grease may make them gummy and they may swell up.
Tom
souperdoo Thanks a lot Tom!
I made the mistake of soaking it overnight in water. There was rusty water on the pooled on the butterfly valve when I woke up. There is a bit of surface rust on the screws on the butterfly, and its a little sticky when first opening it. Is this a problem?
I've heard that about petroleum products in regards to o-rings, which is why I've been very cautious. I have some dielectric grease I'll use.
Thanks again. I really appreciate the help.
march11stoneytony The butterfly works against a pretty stiff spring, so it shouldn't be a real problem. Clean everything off well and put a drop of 3-in-1 or other light oil on the butterfly shaft. It should work itself out.
Tom
Harley has the diaphragm p/n 27535-88 as they use this same carb in the past..about half the price of Kaw.....do u agree?
Yes, as far as I know the Harley part is a direct replacement. We've found that some of the parts on the Sportster carb are NOT a direct replacement (if I recall correctly, the collar is different), the the diaphragm is. The Harley store will also have some larger pilot jets, which you may find you need if you've moved to a very free flowing exhaust and aren't able to tune out the decel popping.
Is this the same carb that came on the Vulcan 800? Looking to buying one and have been doing lots of research on carbs as my current bike is efi just preparing to tinker with it lol thanks in advance great videos btw!
Hi Jose,
Yes, it is pretty much the same carb. The carb on the 800 is a pumper carb with the pump being located at the bowl. There is a linkage to operate the pump. Outside of that, it is the same carb with some differences in drillings here and there.
From a rebuild standpoint, no differences other than the pump.
Tom
Great video Thank You
i do have a long needle hanging on the bowl, you don't. should i remove it?
Because i can't fix the fuel leaking out of the overflow while the engine is running.
Already replaced the float + needle
Tibor,
If you are referring to a bowl overflow tube (like in this article: www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20that%20i%20think%20about/installing-a-carburetor-bowl-overflow-pipe-no-fear-of-fuel-hydrolock) then, no, you must not remove that. If you do the fuel will run freely from the bottom of the bowl.
You say that you have replaced the float and needle but if it is still overflowing then the needle is not seating and sealing. You probably need to remove the bowl, the float and needle, and gently clean and polish the needle seat. That is the brass bit that is installed in the carburetor body. They can get a build-up of solids on them that will prevent the needle from sealing.
awssome looks like a good carb im going to buy a klr my fzr 1000is horrible i hate it always broke
+Zack Grindle HI Zack!
Well then, welcome to the 'slow side'! The klr won't keep up with your FZR, but It'll go most anywhere with lots of smiles.
Tom
+souperdoo well speed always gets me anyways i used to have a ktm exc 450 id rater go on trails and up mountains and shit race bikes are heavy and stupid that bike im always pissed
Thanks!!!!!
You are most welcome!
Tom
Can't you just clean all the parts with good ol' gasoline?
You can, but if you're going to go for something other than PineSol (a green solution; think of the children and the whales) you should consider a true carburetor cleaner.
Gas is going to stink. Carb cleaner stinks, too, but it works much better than gas for cleaning stuff.
Just keep anything that isn't metal out of it.
Tom
I like to use paint thinner as solvent ...not as noxious or as flammable as gasoline ...even coleman fuel is preferred to using just gas ...in my opinion
...satisfying
My pin is seized in place it will not come out
It shouldn't be! There is really nothing that would seize the pin.
Look to see if, for some reason, the pin has been staked in place.
It might be that some ethanol has gunked things up. Place some drops of carb cleaner on the pin where it passes through the carb body and let it sit for a while.
It should free up.