Thank you for sharing this!! I kept reading articles, but they didn’t help me as much as you SHOWING me! (Plus I love that you left the part in where you “messed up”, because now I know that if that were to happen to me, it’s not the end of the world!)
hey, thanks for the flip book video, where you used sticky notes now I know how to make a flip book animation without making a flip book, the comments were turned off so I couldn't thank you in the specific one
Should one heat of the copper first, then add the solder? That is at least how one is suppose to do it with electronics, otherwise the connect is brittle as the solder touches the cooler surface, to which you are trying to attach it.
@@MrOtterArtStudio This is a good tutorial and I want to try it out myself, the previous comment has a point though and I'd like to help rather than criticise. Flux is primarily used to reduce the surface tension of the molten solder and make it flow smoother when heated. Heating the copper foil and then applying the solder directly to the foil (next to the tip of the iron) will result in a stronger bond between copper and solder. It's probably not as critical in stain glass as it is in electronics but I think it would be worth testing so see if the join is stronger with a less brittle bond.
@@mleah4767 Flux is used to remove oxidization residues from copper during the soldering. Depending on the flux recipe one works better than another for this process. Preheating copper leads to glass cracking during the process. I m sorry but soldering principles known for soldering the plumbing parts simply do not apply to stained glass. I am soldering stained glass myself for over 15 years on the way shown in this video with perfect results and never had even the smallest issues with the solder bond between copper and solder.
Dear Mr. Otter, I am wondering if you have gotten a chance to look into making a barrel hinged double glass locket? Thank you so much and all the best. 🙏🏻👏
Copper Foil is needed so the lead has something to adhere to when it is melted, otherwise, it would bead up on the glass and fall off of it. My friend uses a glue gun to create stained glass like acrylic paintings. The hot glue is the raised lines between the shapes if that makes sense!
It could be, or the glass might need to be cleaned more thoroughly and then let it dry. I have had that problem and for sure the flux can work its way under the foil if it isn't sealed very tight. Good luck!!
The copper foil needs to be “burnished” in addition to just pressed down with fingers, which is an important step this video omitted. This flattens the small creases, increases the foil’s bond and reduces the areas for flux to get underneath, which results in the “bubble” you see at 10:56. You can use the side of a pencil or whatever’s handy that will press the foil flat. A bone folder works great. This important step will prevent foil lifting.
Im sorry you don't have watercolor paper, it is hard to paint on drawing paper because it tears so easily. You can still use it just use way less water and paint on it
I appreciate artists who share videos, so I can say thanks. Still, it is very hard on me, as an artist, when videos take lengthy time & really do not position you to do the task. I feel I have lost so much time with youtube videos that don't really help you to know all you need to do the task. From now on, I am sticking to videos that start at the beginning, with a very clear explanation that orients you completely in how to do the task. Partial explanation just takes my time while leaving me lost in doing the task. The time could have been much better spent to quickly show all the steps of the task, rather than lengthy time on middle steps, without at least some quick words to orient you to the whole process... It could have been done in just a few extra sentences & showing a fast glimpse of the tools not shown on missing steps.
To me it’s the viewers fault, if an artist takes the time to go step by step everyone complains the video is too long or he/she talks to much…. Or even more STUPID your fingernails are dirty
That is awesome! Thank you so much for showing us this.
Thank you for sharing this!! I kept reading articles, but they didn’t help me as much as you SHOWING me! (Plus I love that you left the part in where you “messed up”, because now I know that if that were to happen to me, it’s not the end of the world!)
Your welcome! Good luck with stained glass it is so fun!!
This is exactly the tutorial I was looking for!
hey, thanks for the flip book video, where you used sticky notes now I know how to make a flip book animation without making a flip book, the comments were turned off so I couldn't thank you in the specific one
@Pedro Lyric r/nobodyasked
Great job. I applaud your overall performance and presentation. 🍻
ive used an old sharpening stone or even sand paper on a flat surface to grind imperfections.
Great tip! I might try that
And that way you know it’s flat!
Great video
Omg u make it soo understandable
What type of soldering wire do you use?
Came here to ask this!
Should one heat of the copper first, then add the solder? That is at least how one is suppose to do it with electronics, otherwise the connect is brittle as the solder touches the cooler surface, to which you are trying to attach it.
I’ve never heated the copper, the flux you apply before soldering it is what allows it to attach
@@MrOtterArtStudio This is a good tutorial and I want to try it out myself, the previous comment has a point though and I'd like to help rather than criticise.
Flux is primarily used to reduce the surface tension of the molten solder and make it flow smoother when heated.
Heating the copper foil and then applying the solder directly to the foil (next to the tip of the iron) will result in a stronger bond between copper and solder. It's probably not as critical in stain glass as it is in electronics but I think it would be worth testing so see if the join is stronger with a less brittle bond.
@@mleah4767 Flux is used to remove oxidization residues from copper during the soldering. Depending on the flux recipe one works better than another for this process. Preheating copper leads to glass cracking during the process. I m sorry but soldering principles known for soldering the plumbing parts simply do not apply to stained glass. I am soldering stained glass myself for over 15 years on the way shown in this video with perfect results and never had even the smallest issues with the solder bond between copper and solder.
Technically, you should "tin" the copper foil with a flat layer first, then go back and bead edge
Beautiful video. I’m looking for a video for how to a hinge between the two panes and a lock and I hope you could help. Thank you 🙏🏻
I will look into that!
@@MrOtterArtStudio Thank you so much Mr. Otter. I would be extremely grateful for your help and guidance. All the best.
Dear Mr. Otter, I am wondering if you have gotten a chance to look into making a barrel hinged double glass locket? Thank you so much and all the best. 🙏🏻👏
I’m wondering do people sodder jewelry they make as in rings etc
How powerful is your soldering iron?
What temperature is good for the iron? Mine gets red hot after a while and it really smokes!!
700 degrees is the standard temperature, you might need to clean it off
Sounds like you need a rheostat to control your iron’s temperature. It should not be getting “red hot”, and this could be a real fire hazard.
Where can I buy the book with the circuits from?
Newbie here. Why do we add copper foil before soldering? Can the same be done with acrylic instead of glass?
Copper Foil is needed so the lead has something to adhere to when it is melted, otherwise, it would bead up on the glass and fall off of it. My friend uses a glue gun to create stained glass like acrylic paintings. The hot glue is the raised lines between the shapes if that makes sense!
Can you use seaglass
I always have the toughest time getting the copper foil to stick once I start soldering. Do you think it's because I'm putting too much flux?
It could be, or the glass might need to be cleaned more thoroughly and then let it dry. I have had that problem and for sure the flux can work its way under the foil if it isn't sealed very tight. Good luck!!
The copper foil needs to be “burnished” in addition to just pressed down with fingers, which is an important step this video omitted. This flattens the small creases, increases the foil’s bond and reduces the areas for flux to get underneath, which results in the “bubble” you see at 10:56. You can use the side of a pencil or whatever’s handy that will press the foil flat. A bone folder works great. This important step will prevent foil lifting.
can you tell me how thick glass?? and how thick cooper foil
Im sorry you don't have watercolor paper, it is hard to paint on drawing paper because it tears so easily. You can still use it just use way less water and paint on it
The link to Amazon doesn’t seem to work
The bump came from the bad edge on the glass
I appreciate artists who share videos, so I can say thanks. Still, it is very hard on me, as an artist, when videos take lengthy time & really do not position you to do the task. I feel I have lost so much time with youtube videos that don't really help you to know all you need to do the task. From now on, I am sticking to videos that start at the beginning, with a very clear explanation that orients you completely in how to do the task. Partial explanation just takes my time while leaving me lost in doing the task. The time could have been much better spent to quickly show all the steps of the task, rather than lengthy time on middle steps, without at least some quick words to orient you to the whole process... It could have been done in just a few extra sentences & showing a fast glimpse of the tools not shown on missing steps.
? You can always scroll on rather than spend extensive time writing a note to diss someone doing something you chose to watch
To me it’s the viewers fault, if an artist takes the time to go step by step everyone complains the video is too long or he/she talks to much…. Or even more STUPID your fingernails are dirty
Why would you want to cover the copper with soldering
It holds the piece together, otherwise it will come apart, you can patina the soldier so it looks like copper if you like the look of it
Your iron is not hot enough. You should not be “waiting for it (solder) to melt”.
Thanks! I was having such a hard time soldering
nice video, but you need a new point
I sure do
Terrible language skills. Shocking...