Kayo MR150 & MR125 Fork Lug Replacement / Upgrade
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- This is a rather long video that shows the work we did to upgrade the fork lugs on Claudio's MR150R. This would be almost identical if you have a MR125 bike instead.
The video gets longer at the end as we ran into some surprises. Namely, the brake caliper bolts are too long when used with this upgrade. The upgrade does not include shorter bolts, so when we found the problem we had to make our own.
If you have done this upgrade yourself, please comment on what could be done better to help others. The parts did not include instructions. What we did was based on email and verbal recommendations from svracingparts.com. They were super helpful and responsive.
Additionally we set the fork oil level and changed the fluid weight to slow the fork down a bit. The fork would dive way too much with its stock setup. Since we were in here for this mod, it was the perfect time to change that fluid.
What is the riding value for this change?
Of all the modifications available for these bikes, this one is my number one pick. The stock bike had a very pronounced (negotive) handling effect at corner exit. When you would exit a corner, the bike would run wide as the power came on. You are correct, this is normal for a motorcycle. In ths case, it was much more pronounced than what you are likely accustomed to. Power application really affects the steering in stock form. Twitchiness has not the big issue for me the way power affected steering response. At our local track, I could do laps in the high 54 second range at a manageable aggression level. With this change, I could comfortably drop a second or more. (Yes, I use a lap timer so the numbers are not seat of the pants). We ride at the Kart track in Katy Texas if that helps give you some reference.
Acknowledgements:
Finally, a big thanks to my neighbor Charles ( a machinist by trade and a very motorcycle friendly dude). His additional hands and knowledge helped put this video out here.
Claudio is the owner of the subject bike in this video and is my original minibike conspirator. Thank you for agreeing to participate and share this upgrade with other Kayo tribe members out there on the planet. Hopefully, making your own Kayo a better trackbike.
Corrections:
Blair at SVRacingparts.com let me know that he recommends making a change the the fork cap assembly step. I stated to tighten the cap on the damper rod completely, then back it off a full turn. He let me know that the best setup he recommended was to back it off 2 full turns. Then, tighten the nut on the rod against the cap.
PS:
Yes we forgot to shoot a couple of the clips the first time. You will notice the motorcycle changing at one point (inserted reshot clips). If it helps, Claudio and myself bought our Kayos at the same time and had them delivered in the exact same shipment. So they are twins! (Even if they have some cosmetic differences) Did you spot the other difference? (hint, in front of the triple clamp).
Here is the video of the first track outing with the fork lugs in place. It was good for at least a 1.5 second per lap improvement. • Kayo MR150 Fork lug Mo...
Thanks for putting the video together and for the HUGE help to get this done! I rode the bike twice, at two different tracks, since the upgrade. Great improvement, for sure. Now I just need to replace my front tire, which is bent out of shape and affecting handling a lot! :)
Keep the videos coming too. I just got my Kayo a few weeks ago and it really helps to get eyes on how to do stuff!
Just isn't much info out there on these. Just trying to help the crowd sourcing cause. WIth KAyo miniGP, it is a very small crowd..
@@sportytoes I hear you on that. I bought my Kayo with little to no info... I needed a mini so I can ride with my son and didn't want to shell out the cash to buy another Ohvale. I've been uploading videos over on my channel about my experience up to this point to try and spread the word. I'm happy with the bike so far!
Awesome! Love your instructional videos!
Great Video; Latest Update would be to Go Two Full Rotations back on the Black Fork Cap on Final Reassembly - "From the Fork Cap screwed all the way turned down - Rotate the Fork Cap back Two Full Rotations, then with a light drop of Blue Loctite;Tighten the 10mm Nut backup to the Fork Cap to act as a Jam Nut", and Good to Go...!! Also, when ready to reinstall the Fork Caps, be sure to reinstall the O-Ring Seals prior Screwing the Fork Caps down for Final Assembly.. Definitely remove the O-ring prior to heating Cap or order new O-Rings in advance to be sure in case you nick them or damage them in removal....
I got the front caliper off by loosening the brake pad bolts and removing the inside brake pad. It gives you just enough space to pull the caliper off without needing to loosen the rotor. About the same amount of work though I guess...
That is a super tip! I will try it next time. I hate having the break free the (4) rotor bolts and having to re-loctite it.
Great video! Do you have any info on sprockets? sprockets sets on svracingparts are incredibly expensive looking to find out what parts from other bikes can be used on the Kayo
Front sprocket from trr125 works. I am not interestd in light weight chains. Makes no difference for my limited skill level. The rear sprocket must be around 40 tooth or so. I haven’t found any dirtbike sprockets that work since most need 50 teeth or so. If anyone knows, i could make good use of th knowledge.
@@sportytoes thank you for the reply and all your rad mini track riding videos!
All I would recommend is to brake the rotor bolts lose while using the brake to hold it, then loosen rotor and remove caliper.. easier to use to front brake to hold the front from turning. 😉
Man I should have thought of that! Great call. Much more stable that way for sure.
How did you compress the new fork spring to install it?!
There isn’t much spring you have to overcome on a bike this size. Just press down and turn the cap. Takes very little effort.
Was there fuel in gas tank ?? 😃
Yep, i am lazy. Just left the tank where it was. Careful with the torch…
Is it possible to change the oil without disassembling everything?
No. There are no drain screws at the bottom on the fork. You must remove the fork cap. Then the front wheel so you can slide the forks out from the triple clank so you can turn them upsaide down so gravity can drain the oil.
I would wait until i had to change a tire so i can combine all this dumb work. I want to ride at the travk and not turn wrenches on my rare full days of not going to work :/
@@sportytoesthank you so much