Why Jacquemus Is A Marketing Genius
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- Опубліковано 15 чер 2024
- In today's video, I review the Jacquemus Resort 2025 runway show / collection and talk about how Jacquemus uses his marketing campaigns to garner financial success through bags such as the Le Chiquiuto.
Simon Porte Jacquemus pulled off one of his resort spectaculars today, this time in Capri-a vividly sun and color-drenched co-ed production which he said his team had been privately calling “the impossible show.”
It’s been Porte Jacquemus “biggest dream since starting 15 years ago” to show at the Casa Malaparte. The French-cultural significance of the place: Jean Luc Godard filmed Le Mepris, his 1963 New Wave classic, including unforgettable scenes atop the terracotta terrace of the modernist Italian villa, an architectural feat perched on vertiginous cliffs to the east of Capri.
The catch: the house is only accessible by boat-when the weather allows. Some of the kit needed to be helicoptered in as they prepared for the 40 guests who could fit onto the rooftop space. And just for once, in a season when so many summer resort shows have been buffeted by storms, the weather gods smiled. “There is no beauty without risk!” Porte Jacquemus had declared a day earlier.
So Gwyneth Paltrow and Dua Lipa were there to witness a Jacquemus collection that marked a creative rite of passage for the designer. “We are evolving into something new. A new kind of sexiness. Realistic but also minimal; almost two-dimensional,” he said. “As pure as I can be.”
Surrounded by drones shooting footage over the Mediterranean and boats plying to and fro far below, models stepped up the long open-air staircase and onto the rooftop. The entry of the opening look, a creamy-pale tufted bathrobe coat, nodded subtly to the famous Brigitte Bardot Le Mepris scene shot on that very terrace. Following were Jacquemus-recognizable silhouettes: his shawl-collared Provencal-derived jackets, now carved in vermillion, yellow, stark black, or white, smoothly matched with high-waisted A-line below-the-knee skirts, full tailored pants, or bermudas.
Walking amongst them, came the menswear: tops derived from sailor’s smocks, over asymmetrically-collared shirts, smartly color-coordinated with pleat-front trousers. With every look, a bag; soft fold-over clutches, top-handled bags, and shopping totes in pops of color: turquoise, leaf-green, pink, or yellow.
Cineasts will know that the plot of Le Mepris involves a meta-theme of a movie within a movie-Fritz Lang plays an auteur making a version of Homer’s Odyssey. Porte Jacquemus’s departure into sinuous draped chiffon or jersey dresses-swooping in the back, or slit at the sides to reveal bodysuits-seemed to touch off that reference. Plenty of skin-show has been part and parcel of the Jacquemus brand until now. It’s not that this resort collection abandoned it-bared shoulders, backs, and the side-exposing narrowness of his halter dresses said that. But in the nuance, there was something more sophisticated going on here. “I wanted it to be surprising, sensual, more ‘woman’” is the way he framed it.
More revelatory on the creative-and the commercial-front is the fact that Porte Jacquemus, the most dynamically successful of young independent designers, is consciously growing up with his audience. He has listened, he said, to criticism that, though stylish, his past work hasn’t always met the benchmark of quality he wants to hit. “I’m ambitious to work every day and make things better and better,” he said. “It’s taken time, and it’s a fight with factories, to work with a new savoir faire.”
His prices are still in the ‘reasonable’ range, compared to sky-high luxury brands. The link to the pre-orders for this collection made immediately available today is proof of that. He’s already seeing the reaction to focusing more effort into his ready-to-wear, he said. “We have never sold as much. Our stores used to be full of people buying one bag. Now we have people spending 15,000 [euros] on clothes. Perhaps,” he reflected, “it’s because I’ve changed a bit. I’m a dad now, and I’m thinking about the next generation, and having constancy. But what I do know is that I will be doing this, the same, for my whole life.”
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Shownotes: www.showstudio.com/collections/pre-collections-2025/jacquemus-cruise-2025/press-release
Seriously one of the best out there at the moment. The chic, elegant, minimalist maximalist, and quasi-surrealist styling in his commercials and shop windows. So so so cute. I remember reading a while back that Karl had been looking into Jacquemus for a contemporary to take over at Chanel. I doubt that will happen now, but it was a playful option for them.
♥️ Those stairs and setting. Bridget Bardot filmed at Casa Malaparte, in Capri the iconic villa setting for Le Mèpris (Contempt), Jean Luc Godard’s 1963 film.
The worst part about his clothing quality is that he knows he's cutting quality and doesn't care. He specifically made his bags at a certain quality and when he got popular demanded a price cut from his suppliers. When the Spanish factory would not lower prices, he found a cheaper producer and lower the quality.
damn thats brutal
This is how you kill a brand image..
@@gregperez-greene7408 I'm suspecting he's testing with how much he can get away with. LVMH and Coach does the same thing.
I feel differently about the clothing though. I have a few pieces scattered across past and newer collections and I can tell the quality has improved. Things like adding reinforcements to the chest pocket I was so surprised when I saw it
@@userx12342 why "so surprised"? weren't expecting to get what you paid for? (kidding)
out of curiosity, what did you get? a jacket?
what i always find is that those clothes look great on the runway but on photos they look saggy and underwhelming and not very flattering even on a model. If it looks cheap on the model then it'll look worse on everybody else.
omg I'm so disappointed, how I never see your channel before?? I love luxury marketing and analyzes, your content is beyond amazing, only good thing is Ill have hours of entertainment this week haha, I ll do a marathon at work, Im allow to use one earphone I cant wait to start my shift
Uh-luh-luh! You hit the nail on the head once again. He doesn’t push the mold, he ‘fits the mold’. He delivers a reinforcement of the romance of French culture. He seems like a lovely, man who surrounds himself with a great crowd, a scene…a whole lot of privilege.
It’s so interesting if you to bring this up because now that I think about it, did anyone talk about the clothes from the ‘Lavender Fields’ show?!!
Do serious people GENUINELY think those Jaquemus mini bags were attractive?!!! I never got that - this desire to carry a miniature bag….?
Ohhhhhhh the sets. The palette with which he presents the clothes in and on - I haven’t even noticed his clothes! They seem a bit ordinary but the presentation is one hundred.
To me Jacquemus is a lifestyle similar to the Loewe Ibiza collections. I saw the show online and thought it was beautiful. It's great to see a show that's innovative and not just collections being shown in mostly closed arenas with over-the-top sets built.
As for Jacquesmus, I don't own any clothing pieces yet, but focus on the handbags and other items and today had on my red Jacquemus Le Bob Artichaut hat of which my nearly hundred year old, but very fashionable, Iris Afel-esque parent loved.
The Jacquemus vibe fits in very well for where I'm from. Plus, I've been to the south of France many times over the decades and see how it would fit in there.
I find Jacquemus brilliant in marketing just as Loewe has been.
As for quality, that is an issue with a lot of brands these days. Plus, due to folks these days seeming to not buy clothing for the long haul as in yesteryears, various design houses can get away with and have gotten away with reducing quality. But, if consumers continue to buy low quality items, then that's on the consumer.
Greetings from Los Angeles
His shoes and accessories def push the mold! Like those ballet heels and the double shoe heels are new/fresh concepts. The reason his stuff look kinda like Zara is because they've copying him for years lol
like you said the clothes aren't awful, its just such a snooze fest, especially the menswear (he needs to hire somebody who knows how to cut a suit, but still make it super loungey and on brand).
Honestly at this point he's just such a big name that its just a momentum thing; Anna Wintour gives him awards (for contribution to the arts? please), Gwenyth Paltrow is in the front row and now his shows are just a clout fest, etc. it'd be actually interesting to see how long he can keep this up, if the product isn't there then the trendiness of it will eventually fade and then what? (well i guess then we'd have one less boring brand we all have to pretend to care about each season - God willing.)
While I agree that Jacquemus' marketing strategy played a huge role in the brand's success, I also feel that the designs do hold a bit of weight, especially when the brand was first establishing its aesthetic.
His first hit show was SS'17. In a sea of nihilistic, oversized streetwear, the series of happy-go-lucky, but romatic collection must have struck a chord with those in the fashion crowd who wanted something different. This was followed by another hit show (FW'17) and the creation of the Chiquito, which would become his hit bag.
The blowup of his SS'18 show was simply an accumulation of the successes of the previous two shows. From there, with the support of Chiquito, the brand would go into expansion mode, that would later branch into his unique approach to marketing.
You’re right in the sense that when I say jacquemus clothing is ultra commercial I am more referring to the clothing that he makes now.
Back then even though there were issues with quality, the designs had more character and flair. It’s funny you mentioned SS18 because I thought that’s when it started going downhill (in terms of design of the clothing - the accessories have always been strong), I liked a lot of the collections pre-SS18
It's beyond annoying to blame things on manufactuers and qc... Tbh!
Im absolutely skint and have been trying for over a year on my business. Its sooo frustrating not having the money to out into quality and manufactures i would like. Instead to get my ideas out and hopefully make some profit to do better, i cannot do better.
So peeps with years experience, money and reputation! Being lazy and uncaring is like a stab in the heart! Because they dont have any. Its just a corporation!
it wont last forever, Jacquemus either fix their quality issues (which is bad for its bottom line, so unlikely) or it will start falling from grace.
Nail down your craft and create something beautiful, the rest of it is just a game.
ah ☝🏾🤓 excuse me who is Jaquemus
He is overrated
TY for this video. An interesting comment: "(Jacquemus)...is a designer who spends the tiniest time designing and most his time on ad campaigns and marketing campaigns." That's truly unfortunate. 🤔 Also thanks for explaining a fashion brand's start-up. I greatly appreciated your comments recommending new designers being tenacious in demanding high quality from manufacturers for their final products. 🫶💪👍