I'm a mechanic for a large wholesaler and the big problem I've had with these transmissions is a shudder under load with no codes. On both Escape and Edge with 1.5/2.0L ecoboost. I've fixed quite a few by changing fluid and adding Lucas "anti squak" but it's been my experience, once you get the gear ratio codes, it's over. The PCM is watching the transmission slip and letting you know.
Thanks for the share. Here in UK we see many problems with DSG, ridiculously expensive to get repaired. I've a Mercedes Vito with 52k miles, it's started to thump when put into gear........time to get rid! Keep up the wrenching.
I agree but I also understand that if its easy to put goop in something people will put goop in and if your the persont who is going to offer the warranty for the product for 5 years or 10 years 100,000 miles you would not want to offer an easy way for people to put goop in.
I had a refurbished Ford transmission installed on my 2013 Ford E-150 and I didn't even pull it out of my shops parking lot and it was leaking out of out put shaft . They put a second one in and it also had a small leak. There's some in put on Ford refurbished transmissions. What a pain in the ass.
One reason to rebuild is there are too many types of transmissions to keep in stock. In most cases a rubuild kit will fix most problems. Ford transmission prices are twice what a transmission shop will charge. For the most part they are not making new transmissions for old cars so you are getting a rebuilt transmission. From my experience, fix it cheap and trade the car. Old Escapes are not worth keeping, the engine will fail next.
Sounds like it's burned up. I've changed a few forward bands in 4t65e's without removing the Transaxle completely for No Drive. They throw a code along that line. Like stator speed out. I don't remember the exact wording. Basically a code for slippage.
Hey there! Unrelated to this video, but, I have an ‘88 Cadillac Sedan Deville and it was running just fine when we bought it a few months ago. One day while it was being driven, it just shut off. We thought it was the alternator, but there was plenty of power to the car. When we go to start the car, it just ticks, but won’t start. So we think it’s between the fuel pump and the starter. Tried troubleshooting a bit so someone had pressed a spot near the engine to see if the fuel was getting through and it was flowing just fine. We were told it was the “idle control motor” so we bought it and replaced it. The car still just ticks, but doesn’t start. So we think it’s the starter. Because of funds we can’t afford to take it to a shop, so we have to do it ourselves. If it’s the starter, then we can buy it and replace it, but we just aren’t sure. Any tips on figuring out if it’s the starter or maybe the connections just need a good cleaning?
might need a battery charger going for this but check spark plugs, make sure each one is sparking on it's coil pack, this was EFI electronic fuel injection era so make sure each injector is spraying fuel for each cylinder, GM ECM wire harnesses behind the glove box on the trucks, the clip going into the ECM wears out?/ becomes loose and doesn't make great contact and can cause the passenger side injector bank to stop praying or resume spraying when it has connection every bump or big bump which is how i discovered this, but there are two wires one left and one right that handles each side injectors. this is just a technical walk thru of is there Fuel->Spark->Air and if those exist it's something mechanical, hopefully as easy as replacing a sensor or the sensor came off it's holder due to broke/worn out fastener. starter you can put power to with a jumper cable at it's input wire lead and it will spin up. another thought that just hit is check the grounding cable from the engine to the frame at the back of the engine if it's rear wheel drive, it's old enough that cable should have been replaced 10-15 years ago due to corrosion. actually check that first, visual inspection is not enough disconnect it at both ends and if it's removable pull it out for inspection...it's a braided copper flat ribbon cable that isn't sheathed in plastic. this absolutely happened to me that way in a 15 year old GM with over 130+k miles on it. any unbroken wire over 12 gauge would allow the car to start and run as a test and the cable used to be $12 to replace 20 years ago so it's not expensive to replace as a starter. when power can't return to the battery from the engine the circuit is broken like a blown fuse. also go thru ever fuse in the fuse box right after and check every fuse for early signs of browning//blackening/melt or blown in the plastic or metal. if they have dirt and dust clouding them break parts cleaning spray works, but make sure they thoroughly dry off before putting them back in, place any that don't look good and save the ones that look bad and mark their location on paper where they came from in the fuse boxes both drivers door side and engine compartment panels. this would be indicators to where to check if issues crop up in the future. if those are fine, the main power wire running all the electronics and head lights goes thru the dash from the passengers side engine fire wall and is a thick cable with high amps 45-50'ish? some where between the glove box and just under the radio cluster there is a fuse junction...some times that melts or blows or the connector melts and grounds out which completes the electrical circuit before it gets to power anything else in the vehicle and there is just enough bleed off power to run low power components/systems still, but usually the accessories like the head lights are dead, the radio works, but the engine won't even turn over. the clicking noise should be investigated for it's source that might be where the grounding issue for the power is coming from and that's the grounding spark you are hearing. 2-3 person job using quiet and just your ears makes it fast and multiple people are better than 1 as long as they are silent and not brushing clothes or seat covers anything that makes noise other than the tick is all you want to hear and locate it's area. that about covers the extent of what i know from first hand experiences of that issue with several vehicles.
Sounds like the fuel pump. It might show flow by have low pressure output. I would do a fuel pressure test on pump. Also, before you do pressure test, replace fuel filter. Also make sure you can hear pump when you cycle ignition (you can remove gas cap and listen). If you do not hear pump come on you can wack the tank with a mallet while cranking and see if it catches. Finally, it could be a bad relay, fuse, or wiring to the pump or some other system required for engine to run (i.e. ignition system).
I know it's a lot of trouble sometimes but you could take the starter out and take it to one of the parts stores and they can check it out to see if you need a new one.
If you still need help, post your question to our Facebook page Wrenching with Kenny & Backyard Mechanics - they are closed sure to answer the questions to join. Add the year, make & model of the vehicle & what you have done to fix the issue. Keep wrenching 🔧
Greetings, can you help me please? Do you know what position the oil pump shaft goes in? I removed the oil pump from a 1997 Astro 4.3 Vortek engine and I didn't pay attention to how I removed it, and now I don't know whether to put it in any position, I don't know if I will have a problem with the distributor for not placing the axle in the position it was in before disassembling it, do you know what happens if I place it in any position, can you please help me?
Yes, it's a dual clutch Powershift, but not the same as the dual clutch Powershift in the Focus & Fiesta which gave the issues - those were dry clutch models.
Hi Kenny, I want to ask a unrelated question if I may I have a small font wheel drive car,with the inner CV joint on the transmission side failure that goes into .the transmission but the problem is the only available part is for a manual transmission, my car is a automatic. The number of splines are the same, my question is can I use the manual CV on the automatic transmission. Would it cause any problems to the splines in the automatic transmission. Hoping for an answer please.
Post your question to our Facebook page Wrenching with Kenny & Backyard Mechanics - they are closed sure to answer the questions to join. Add the year, make & model of the vehicle & what you have done to fix the issue. Keep wrenching 🔧
Bad input or output sensors can get ya! My dad took a $5000 loss on selling his dead car, that "needed a transmission". Kid showed up and scanned it...came back the next day with cash and a sensor, and drove it away 30 minutes later.
To me that is effing rude. I've bought quite a few dead cars for cheap off craigslist that I could have got running in a half hour or so. I would always have them towed away though. You are basically calling someone stupid to their face when you do that. And that's a dick move.
How many miles on that Ford Escape? Is this a common problem with small car domestic transmission’s nobody wants to rebuild the transmission, they don’t understand them and they are very complicated to work on. I understand what warranty means to need to replace another transmission. What’s the reason why the large difference in warranty? Do you get what you pay for or even if you buy the cheaper model you get similar results? ?
105 or 107K on that car. The warranty depends on the unit to begin with, the quality of the transmission. If there is a known problem with a particular unit the manufacturer usually has less of a warranty. If the manufacturer has fixed the problem, they generally offer a better warranty than they did originally. That's the best way I can explain it. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
It happens all too often. I'm glad you were able to find a great technician to take care of your Ford while you were in Germany. Safe travels to Kuwait. Thanks for watching
Get a stick shift they eazer to fix, but if drove right and oil maintain hardly ever brake and if that type of car you want dont have one then you dont need that type cause automatic are sure to brake down when you need it the most
Not so good news for this owner. They should have bought a Toyota instead of a Ford. Some live and learn. Others live and never learn. Nice video brother Kenny. I agree with you about getting a replacement that comes with a warranty.
Some Toyotas have had transmission problems too. I always laugh every time I hear someone say, "If they had bought (fill in the blank make pf car) then they would never have had any problems" LOL
It's pretty sad the avg. cost of a new car is 45,000 & they can't install a dipstick.
Or even a level sensor.
My biggest complaint !!
There's plenty of dipsticks.... In the OEM's offices!
I'm a mechanic for a large wholesaler and the big problem I've had with these transmissions is a shudder under load with no codes. On both Escape and Edge with 1.5/2.0L ecoboost. I've fixed quite a few by changing fluid and adding Lucas "anti squak" but it's been my experience, once you get the gear ratio codes, it's over. The PCM is watching the transmission slip and letting you know.
Thanks for the share. Here in UK we see many problems with DSG, ridiculously expensive to get repaired. I've a Mercedes Vito with 52k miles, it's started to thump when put into gear........time to get rid!
Keep up the wrenching.
P17F0 + a P8xx DTC and it's over. No passing go. No collect $200, just plain over.
Personal opinion here, every fluid on a vehicle should be easily accessible for preventable maintenance.
Every auto technician agrees. The engineers consistently make poor design decisions. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
100% agree.
@@WrenchingWithKennyI'd put that more on the accountants, but it's definitely not a good thing.
I agree but I also understand that if its easy to put goop in something people will put goop in and if your the persont who is going to offer the warranty for the product for 5 years or 10 years 100,000 miles you would not want to offer an easy way for people to put goop in.
@@WrenchingWithKennyno more sealed units
I had a refurbished Ford transmission installed on my 2013 Ford E-150 and I didn't even pull it out of my shops parking lot and it was leaking out of out put shaft . They put a second one in and it also had a small leak. There's some in put on Ford refurbished transmissions. What a pain in the ass.
Remanufactured is the way to go, or a used unit. Used unit, no warranty on labor, and most salvage yards only give you 30 days. Thanks for sharing
I absolutely agree. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
Uh oh.. Found the problem!! Blue oval on streering wheel! Habe ypu driven a FORD lately?!😂
It's 10 years old, with 108k, and you have no idea regarding its maintenance history.
One reason to rebuild is there are too many types of transmissions to keep in stock. In most cases a rubuild kit will fix most problems. Ford transmission prices are twice what a transmission shop will charge. For the most part they are not making new transmissions for old cars so you are getting a rebuilt transmission. From my experience, fix it cheap and trade the car. Old Escapes are not worth keeping, the engine will fail next.
Thanks for sharing
Cheers from Nova Scotia
Hello! Thanks for watching! Keep wrenching 🔧
Sounds like it's burned up. I've changed a few forward bands in 4t65e's without removing the Transaxle completely for No Drive. They throw a code along that line. Like stator speed out. I don't remember the exact wording. Basically a code for slippage.
As soon as I heard the whine I thought ’cha-ching’ 😮😂
Absolutely correct! 😂
Hey there! Unrelated to this video, but, I have an ‘88 Cadillac Sedan Deville and it was running just fine when we bought it a few months ago. One day while it was being driven, it just shut off. We thought it was the alternator, but there was plenty of power to the car. When we go to start the car, it just ticks, but won’t start. So we think it’s between the fuel pump and the starter. Tried troubleshooting a bit so someone had pressed a spot near the engine to see if the fuel was getting through and it was flowing just fine. We were told it was the “idle control motor” so we bought it and replaced it. The car still just ticks, but doesn’t start. So we think it’s the starter. Because of funds we can’t afford to take it to a shop, so we have to do it ourselves. If it’s the starter, then we can buy it and replace it, but we just aren’t sure. Any tips on figuring out if it’s the starter or maybe the connections just need a good cleaning?
might need a battery charger going for this but check spark plugs, make sure each one is sparking on it's coil pack, this was EFI electronic fuel injection era so make sure each injector is spraying fuel for each cylinder, GM ECM wire harnesses behind the glove box on the trucks, the clip going into the ECM wears out?/ becomes loose and doesn't make great contact and can cause the passenger side injector bank to stop praying or resume spraying when it has connection every bump or big bump which is how i discovered this, but there are two wires one left and one right that handles each side injectors. this is just a technical walk thru of is there Fuel->Spark->Air and if those exist it's something mechanical, hopefully as easy as replacing a sensor or the sensor came off it's holder due to broke/worn out fastener.
starter you can put power to with a jumper cable at it's input wire lead and it will spin up.
another thought that just hit is check the grounding cable from the engine to the frame at the back of the engine if it's rear wheel drive, it's old enough that cable should have been replaced 10-15 years ago due to corrosion. actually check that first, visual inspection is not enough disconnect it at both ends and if it's removable pull it out for inspection...it's a braided copper flat ribbon cable that isn't sheathed in plastic. this absolutely happened to me that way in a 15 year old GM with over 130+k miles on it. any unbroken wire over 12 gauge would allow the car to start and run as a test and the cable used to be $12 to replace 20 years ago so it's not expensive to replace as a starter. when power can't return to the battery from the engine the circuit is broken like a blown fuse. also go thru ever fuse in the fuse box right after and check every fuse for early signs of browning//blackening/melt or blown in the plastic or metal. if they have dirt and dust clouding them break parts cleaning spray works, but make sure they thoroughly dry off before putting them back in, place any that don't look good and save the ones that look bad and mark their location on paper where they came from in the fuse boxes both drivers door side and engine compartment panels. this would be indicators to where to check if issues crop up in the future. if those are fine, the main power wire running all the electronics and head lights goes thru the dash from the passengers side engine fire wall and is a thick cable with high amps 45-50'ish? some where between the glove box and just under the radio cluster there is a fuse junction...some times that melts or blows or the connector melts and grounds out which completes the electrical circuit before it gets to power anything else in the vehicle and there is just enough bleed off power to run low power components/systems still, but usually the accessories like the head lights are dead, the radio works, but the engine won't even turn over.
the clicking noise should be investigated for it's source that might be where the grounding issue for the power is coming from and that's the grounding spark you are hearing. 2-3 person job using quiet and just your ears makes it fast and multiple people are better than 1 as long as they are silent and not brushing clothes or seat covers anything that makes noise other than the tick is all you want to hear and locate it's area.
that about covers the extent of what i know from first hand experiences of that issue with several vehicles.
Sounds like the fuel pump. It might show flow by have low pressure output. I would do a fuel pressure test on pump. Also, before you do pressure test, replace fuel filter. Also make sure you can hear pump when you cycle ignition (you can remove gas cap and listen). If you do not hear pump come on you can wack the tank with a mallet while cranking and see if it catches. Finally, it could be a bad relay, fuse, or wiring to the pump or some other system required for engine to run (i.e. ignition system).
I know it's a lot of trouble sometimes but you could take the starter out and take it to one of the parts stores and they can check it out to see if you need a new one.
Thank you all so much!🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾 I will definitely come back and reply when it gets figured out to let you all know what it was.
If you still need help, post your question to our Facebook page Wrenching with Kenny & Backyard Mechanics - they are closed sure to answer the questions to join. Add the year, make & model of the vehicle & what you have done to fix the issue. Keep wrenching 🔧
Good evening Mr Kenny, hope you had a great day for a Friday, wishing you and your wife a great weekend.
Hi Bobby! I hope you are having a great day. Thanks for watching 🔧
Oh I can hear the transmission in the video! A lot of whining going on it ain't happy
Greetings, can you help me please? Do you know what position the oil pump shaft goes in? I removed the oil pump from a 1997 Astro 4.3 Vortek engine and I didn't pay attention to how I removed it, and now I don't know whether to put it in any position, I don't know if I will have a problem with the distributor for not placing the axle in the position it was in before disassembling it, do you know what happens if I place it in any position, can you please help me?
At 3:30 I thought the transmission was coming out of it!
Right?! Crazy. Thanks for watching 🔧
The ole 6F35 unmaintained and unhappy.
Lifetime fluid and now ready to ship to the embalmer ! 😂
I don't suppose it's one of those stupid dual clutch transmissions like they were putting in the Focus and Festiva?
Yes, it's a dual clutch Powershift, but not the same as the dual clutch Powershift in the Focus & Fiesta which gave the issues - those were dry clutch models.
These Escapes seem to be nothing but trouble.
Hi Kenny, I want to ask a unrelated question if I may I have a small font wheel drive car,with the inner CV joint on the transmission side failure that goes into .the transmission but the problem is the only available part is for a manual transmission, my car is a automatic. The number of splines are the same, my question is can I use the manual CV on the automatic transmission. Would it cause any problems to the splines in the automatic transmission. Hoping for an answer please.
Post your question to our Facebook page Wrenching with Kenny & Backyard Mechanics - they are closed sure to answer the questions to join. Add the year, make & model of the vehicle & what you have done to fix the issue. Keep wrenching 🔧
Great information.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching 🔧
Bad input or output sensors can get ya!
My dad took a $5000 loss on selling his dead car, that "needed a transmission".
Kid showed up and scanned it...came back the next day with cash and a sensor, and drove it away 30 minutes later.
He's living in Hendersonville...
That happens. Sorry your dad took a hit for it. Thanks for your reply & watching the video 🔧
To me that is effing rude. I've bought quite a few dead cars for cheap off craigslist that I could have got running in a half hour or so. I would always have them towed away though. You are basically calling someone stupid to their face when you do that. And that's a dick move.
a 10-100 is better than a 10-200 for sure!
Where was that escape made. Interested to knkw if it is usa made or was made up the road from me by Samcor.
Hello to South Africa. I don't know, but it's the 2nd 2014 Ford Escape with a blown transmission in less than two weeks. Thanks for watching 🔧
@@WrenchingWithKenny Your scan tool should be able to tell you country of origin from the VIN off the vehicle, at least my one does.
It does. The vehicle is back with the customer. Keep wrenching 🔧
Sounds like the fluid pump failed !
How many miles on that Ford Escape? Is this a common problem with small car domestic transmission’s nobody wants to rebuild the transmission, they don’t understand them and they are very complicated to work on.
I understand what warranty means to need to replace another transmission.
What’s the reason why the large difference in warranty? Do you get what you pay for or even if you buy the cheaper model you get similar results? ?
105 or 107K on that car. The warranty depends on the unit to begin with, the quality of the transmission. If there is a known problem with a particular unit the manufacturer usually has less of a warranty. If the manufacturer has fixed the problem, they generally offer a better warranty than they did originally. That's the best way I can explain it. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
I found my problem was a bad range sensor.
Thanks for letting us know. Keep wrenching 🔧
My bad transmission didn’t throw and engine light either! And it was toast. The fluid was black and filled with metal shavings 😢
It happens all too often. I'm glad you were able to find a great technician to take care of your Ford while you were in Germany. Safe travels to Kuwait. Thanks for watching
failure at 100K miles? LOL. My Japanese vehicles are just starting to break in at that mileage.
Our Ram, Caravan & Silverado all have over 250,000 on each of them. We're doing OK. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
Even though I don't think so, I have used it for the most ggiid
If the owner only put only 2 new tires on thats the problem it's not tracking.
3rd!
Get a stick shift they eazer to fix, but if drove right and oil maintain hardly ever brake and if that type of car you want dont have one then you dont need that type cause automatic are sure to brake down when you need it the most
👍‼️
FORD………
Not so good news for this owner. They should have bought a Toyota instead of a Ford. Some live and learn. Others live and never learn. Nice video brother Kenny. I agree with you about getting a replacement that comes with a warranty.
Every single manufacturer has problems. All of them. Remember how Toyota had problems with uncontrollable acceleration a few years back. Yeah that.
Some Toyotas have had transmission problems too. I always laugh every time I hear someone say, "If they had bought (fill in the blank make pf car) then they would never have had any problems" LOL
Trans go fubar big time
Fubar! I haven't heard that one in a bit. You brought back good memories with that one. Thanks for your reply. Keep wrenching 🔧