Thank you, great vid. 🙏 My filler was badly rounded off also. I was not so lucky & ended up having to use a chisel & hammer. (Had already got replacement filler plugs) Only had my F6B about 2 weeks so not familiar with pulling exhaust (easy), which once doing, made things way easier. Exhaust was so tight, no room for 6 point socket or pipe wrench. None of my vise grips worked either. Cheers from Vancouver/Langley, BC CA 😎
Hi mo. Subs are increasing weekly ay…pleased for you. Hi done the same, but when I tightened up the filler bolt I tightened it up too tight, stripped the dam thing too, just the thread left in there…it’s made of aluminium. So fatigue sets in quick. My advice to anyone doing this is to REPLACE WITH NEW..don’t overtighten as you say…. good to see you again, hi to David and mrs mo 🇬🇧👍
Good tip.. I've done that on other projects myself.. Definitely wasn't changed at the dealer. I'll be changing my final drive oil shortly, and bought a magnetic drain plug from wing stuff and about 10 crush washers. I put a magnetic drain plug on the engine drain also...
Ugh that fluid doesn't look like it's been changed in a long time. A nice tip for doing the final drive, I raise my suspension up to 25, it gives you a little more room to work down there. Then I use an oil pump can filled with the proper final drive oil and just pump it in.
Mo, great vid. I always use anti-seize or thread lube. Dealerships really suck. Bought a used Tundra (2021) had dealer to do oil changes. Decided to do it myself. The filter housing is plastic (cheap Toyota). I had to use my 3/4 ratchet and a breaker bar to remove. Was afraid that I was going to break it. Dealer will never do my oil again...
Ay Mo, That has been an issue for quite a few. Thanks. I have installed the Henry Final Drive in my 2016. First thing is his fill plug is steel and the hex head is 1/4 inch or so tall. Also he put a Neodymium or Earth magnet in the plug cap. Now I have a magnet in the fill and drain bolt. 👍 Now the Henry Final Drive is about $1500, however the performance transition makes the Gen-5 Goldwing like a new bike! I can leave it in 1st gear after a stop to up to 35 or 40 mph. That's a safety improvement, especially in traffic. Overdrive, 5th gear is now a true overdrive. Many times at highway speeds I forget I'm still in 4th gear. Torque and acceleration is greatly improved overall in my opinion. Just wanted to pass this along, my friend. Corventure Dave
My brother once had a 1100, while I had the 1200 Goldwing. We changed the final drive fluid on his and I can't begin to tell you how awful the smell was. The fluid was almost a white, grayish color. It was not like that on my 1200. The smell almost made both of us gag.
Gday mate you know that looks almost like a plug cap for the top of the forks ,when i changed my fork oil on my little 500x the same thing happened someone had used mega force to tighten it down ,WHY ? because they were stupid you have an o ring to stop leakage and that plug is not going to come out if that was me i would have been spitting chips . those pipe wrenches are great they will lock on and not let go once they bite as you say on the plug not on the drive i thought you may have taken the rear wheel of to get at it but you managed but managed to get at it good tech video your probably about the only golwing rider ive watched that does his own maintenance take care.
Also only use 6 point sockets for those aluminum fittings
Thank you, great vid. 🙏 My filler was badly rounded off also. I was not so lucky & ended up having to use a chisel & hammer. (Had already got replacement filler plugs) Only had my F6B about 2 weeks so not familiar with pulling exhaust (easy), which once doing, made things way easier. Exhaust was so tight, no room for 6 point socket or pipe wrench. None of my vise grips worked either. Cheers from Vancouver/Langley, BC CA 😎
Hi mo. Subs are increasing weekly ay…pleased for you. Hi done the same, but when I tightened up the filler bolt I tightened it up too tight, stripped the dam thing too, just the thread left in there…it’s made of aluminium. So fatigue sets in quick. My advice to anyone doing this is to REPLACE WITH NEW..don’t overtighten as you say…. good to see you again, hi to David and mrs mo 🇬🇧👍
Well done. You got the job all completed and things are now better than ever. Thanks for sharing. Ride Safe.
Good tip.. I've done that on other projects myself.. Definitely wasn't changed at the dealer. I'll be changing my final drive oil shortly, and bought a magnetic drain plug from wing stuff and about 10 crush washers. I put a magnetic drain plug on the engine drain also...
Ugh that fluid doesn't look like it's been changed in a long time. A nice tip for doing the final drive, I raise my suspension up to 25, it gives you a little more room to work down there.
Then I use an oil pump can filled with the proper final drive oil and just pump it in.
Mo, great vid. I always use anti-seize or thread lube. Dealerships really suck. Bought a used Tundra (2021) had dealer to do oil changes. Decided to do it myself. The filter housing is plastic (cheap Toyota). I had to use my 3/4 ratchet and a breaker bar to remove. Was afraid that I was going to break it. Dealer will never do my oil again...
Ay Mo,
That has been an issue for quite a few. Thanks.
I have installed the Henry Final Drive in my 2016.
First thing is his fill plug is steel and the hex head is 1/4 inch or so tall. Also he put a Neodymium or Earth magnet in the plug cap. Now I have a magnet in the fill and drain bolt. 👍
Now the Henry Final Drive is about $1500, however the performance transition makes the Gen-5 Goldwing
like a new bike! I can leave it in 1st gear after a stop to up to 35 or 40 mph. That's a safety improvement, especially in traffic. Overdrive, 5th gear is now a true overdrive. Many times at highway speeds I forget I'm still in 4th gear.
Torque and acceleration is greatly improved overall in my opinion.
Just wanted to pass this along, my friend.
Corventure Dave
Vice grips work on the nut part of the plug too. It's already stripped so......
Agreed. You can use the vice grip on the edge or on the nut itself. That oil looked pretty bad.
I had the same issue with my Wing. Had a heck of a time getting it off. Cheaply made.
My brother once had a 1100, while I had the 1200 Goldwing. We changed the final drive fluid on his and I can't begin to tell you how awful the smell was. The fluid was almost a white, grayish color. It was not like that on my 1200. The smell almost made both of us gag.
Good advice Mo thanks , safe travels. ARKANSAS Badlands
Gday mate you know that looks almost like a plug cap for the top of the forks ,when i changed my fork oil on my little 500x the same thing happened someone had used mega force to tighten it down ,WHY ? because they were stupid you have an o ring to stop leakage and that plug is not going to come out if that was me i would have been spitting chips . those pipe wrenches are great they will lock on and not let go once they bite as you say on the plug not on the drive i thought you may have taken the rear wheel of to get at it but you managed but managed to get at it good tech video your probably about the only golwing rider ive watched that does his own maintenance take care.
You can almost get vise grips on that beast.
I ended up.using heat to get to move and then replaced the nut