The Taos oil change is a piece of cake! I really like the simplicity of this motor! I think VW has a winner in the Taos! It brings back the Fahrvergnugen!
This is a very good video for beginners to help them feel confident on their oil changes that they may have not done before. Even the part where removing the drain plug is not always easy and may have a little snag demonstrates that the world is not perfect. 👍
The drain plug should be left off when removing the filter. When you remove the filter with the drain plug off, you’ll notice that additional oil will drain out of the drain hole as soon as you begin removing the filter… Once both the oil filter opening AND the drain hole slow to a very slow drip, then install the new filter and reinstall the drain bolt. Note that a new drain bolt isn’t needed every time, you just need a new crush washer.
Thanks for the video friend. I’m booked for an oil change at the deal as I’m still under warranty but man is this ever easy with that placed there. I’ve had ford escapes and they’re pretty bad to get to the oil filter. Cheers
I like how the plugs for these engines all look the same. I had Volkswagens with the 2.5 and it looks like the same plug they both used. I also like the way these are not a skinny bolt with a big washer. I have seen that on a non Volkswagen someone I knew had and it felt like when they designed that one that day they just used the cheapest bolt they had and called it a drain plug!
Good video and thanks for showing us this easy maint. I hate it that VW put the filter under the engine on this model. I loved the filter being on top with the Jetta and Tiguan that I had. I used a siphon pump to extract the oil which eliminates the need to change the crush washer. I think I’ll keep sucking it out on this engine also. Thanks again.
The original plug has paint on it from when they made the pan. It was installed in the pan before painting. That paint on the plug shows how far it was in. I also have a feeling that the paint was causing you to have to need the ratchet repeatedly. With the next plug that is not likely to be painted black it should probably not cause you so much annoyance removing it. Typically oil plugs come out easier after the first one. Just stay out of quick change shops that are likely to damage your pain and put in a plastic insert and you shall have no more pan problems.
FYI Guys Get the Oil directly from Dealership. It's about $8 1Qt. So 5 bottles cost only $40. It's way cheaper getting them from ECS tunning. Also, the torque spec for the drain plug is 30NM = 22.13 ft/lbs. Just do 23 ft/lbs. The first oil change you need to buy a new drain plug from dealership and a washer too. After that, you can just replace the washer. The original drain plug won't let you remove the washer. Stupid design. Happy Oil Change.
The drain plug with the built in washer is the better deal. The built in washer is superior to the crappy crush washer. You replace it new every time, and it acts like a thread chaser, keeping the threads in the oil pan fresh. Torquing that POS shorty drain plug to 23 ftlbs is pushing it. It goes torqued to 25nm as the shorter threads require less torque.
After you install the oil filter, the drain plug and then add oil at least 4qts while it's still on the ramps. You need to turn the car for a little bit then turn off and then go underneath the vehicle and check the oil filter and oil plug and make sure nothing is leaking. If everything looks good and there's no leaks, now you can install the splash shield. You didn't even check for leaks bro. You just installed the splash shield without making sure there's no leaks. No bueno... Now you can bring the vehicle down from the ramps and check the oil level and top it off.
Just a note on these vw engines. Theyre all check level at running temperature. So if youre low when its cold and you fill it to full at cold, youre now overfilled.
@DsgSleazy the manual calls for the level check to be done with the engine hot. So if you fill to the top of the dipstick it and check the level when it is cold, the engine is over filled.
@@Cimone90that's not true at all. First off oil expands as it gets hotter. So if you check the oil level hot, you will *underfill* the crankcase. So when it cools back down (oil level lowers), you will actually be missing oil. However, in truth oil expands so little, it's almost not noticeable on the dipstick. What will get you, is the oil filter. The oil filter will suck up at least 0.3-0.4L of oil. This particular vehicle fills with 4.2L. The correct procedure is to add 4L, start the engine, let it idle for a couple minutes. Shut it off, let the engine settle for a couple minutes, then check your level, and top it off.
@LynxStarAuto it's literally in the manual. And yeah, it does change quite a bit on the dipstick. I've owned a number of vws in the last decade, all have been the same in this regard.
No, I didn't. I changed it around 8000 miles because that's what worked for my schedule. It doesn't hurt to change it sooner if you'd like, but the 10,000 mile interval is fine.
@@CorysdiyautoIf you want to smoke for mosquitos at 60-70k you can keep doing 10k mile oil changes. I service these for a living. Use a high quality oil, and never exceed 7k miles. And no, I'm not saying this to make more money. You service your own vehicle ffs. I have nothing to gain telling you this.
I did my 1 year service (oil change) at a dealer in Canada. They overfilled oil, probably didn't drain it well, oil color was quite brown 1st day, this splash shield is damaged, some of these hard flaps in front are bent, all this stuff flaps lips etc not aligned well, and in the back it's just dangling loose, didn't put back on any of the 3 screws in the back. And they scratched the paint and coating where they lifted the car down to metal (white color). And they started arguing with me, denying everything, asking me if I parked on a slope when I checked oil or what temperature... Like manual doesn't say how to check oil. Nightmare dealing with this on a 1 year car without a scratch and I cared for so well... Now I hate the car and VW and wanna go back to not having a car ever again cause I hate dealing with these crooks and what recourse do you have to get justice...
Sorry to hear about your experience. Sounds like the dealership has a bad service department. I definitely wouldn't go back there again. This is one of the reasons why I like to do as much as I can when it comes to car repair and maintenance. I hope that these DIY videos help people get enough courage to complete the work themselves. You should find a good reputable VW mechanic in your area if you don't want to do any of the work yourself. Good luck with everything.
The original drain plug has an aluminum crush washer that is only supposed to be used once. The washer is meant to "crush" as you tighten it against the oil pan, which provides a seal to insure that there are no leaks. You might be able to get more than one use out of it, but I wouldn't take the chance. That's why ECS Tuning provided a new drain plug with the kit.
@@Corysdiyauto Oh. The washer cannot be replaced from the original drain plug? I am trying to get a bunch of washer and oil filter from dealership. If that's the case, I will have to buy a new drain plug. It looks like the drain plug from ECS has separated washer.
@@noobwow2009 - The OEM drain plug includes the washer that can't be removed unless you cut it off. You can still use the original drain plug if you want, just find a new crush washer. If you take the drain plug to your local auto parts store, you might be able to find a replacement washer there.
@@Corysdiyauto Thanks! :D I think I will just get the package from ECS. Buying oil, washer and plug separately is more expensive. Mobil 1 ESP X2 / Castrol LL VW508 0W-20 are expensive. Cheapest oil I found is Valvoline Euro 0W20.
The OEM drain plug with integrated washer (this one is superior to the replaceable crush washer style), calls for a torque of 30nm. The drain plug he replaced it with, calls for a torque of 22nm. Be very careful torquing the shorty drain plug to factory spec. It will strip very easily.
You only need to replace the crush washer. The plug comes in the kit with a new washer, so I just use it. You can probably get away with using the old plug and washer, but I wouldn't want to chance getting a leak. Crush washers are meant to be used once and that's it.
There isn't a way to check it unfortunately. The DSG transmission doesn't have a dipstick or a plug to check the level. There's no need to worry about the fluid level unless you have a leak or transmission issues. I believe the service interval is every 80,000 miles. I will eventually make a video of the transmission fluid change when I get to that point.
I've done a few oil change videos on my channel. The company that I bought the oil change kit from sent me a new plug and crush washer. You cannot remove the old crush washer from the OEM drain plug unless you cut it off. I chose to use the supplied drain plug with the new crush washer that came in the kit.
Be sure to check out the description for the nitrile glove product link!
The Taos oil change is a piece of cake! I really like the simplicity of this motor! I think VW has a winner in the Taos! It brings back the Fahrvergnugen!
Well said! It is a very simple oil change.
the taos is the worst car ever made jetta beats it easily
@@CKen23 - I would disagree as far as the worst car ever made. The Ford Pinto was probably the worst car ever made.
@@Corysdiyauto I own a taos 22 and all ive had is problems all the time. Recalls like crazy fuel leaks and so on...
@@CKen23 - That's too bad. Sorry to hear about your luck.
This is a very good video for beginners to help them feel confident on their oil changes that they may have not done before. Even the part where removing the drain plug is not always easy and may have a little snag demonstrates that the world is not perfect. 👍
Thank you for the nice comment. I appreciate you!
Without you, I dont go for it and do this. I did it and happy I did. Thanks.
Glad to hear that I inspired you to do it. Great job!!
The drain plug should be left off when removing the filter. When you remove the filter with the drain plug off, you’ll notice that additional oil will drain out of the drain hole as soon as you begin removing the filter… Once both the oil filter opening AND the drain hole slow to a very slow drip, then install the new filter and reinstall the drain bolt. Note that a new drain bolt isn’t needed every time, you just need a new crush washer.
my subie drain plug is 24 yrs old 🤣 always use the oem crush washer though
You’re awesome. Thanks for taking the time to make this video 🤙🏼
Thank you very much.
Thanks for the video friend.
I’m booked for an oil change at the deal as I’m still under warranty but man is this ever easy with that placed there. I’ve had ford escapes and they’re pretty bad to get to the oil filter.
Cheers
You're welcome! You can easily do it yourself whenever you decide to do so. Take care and thank you.
I like how the plugs for these engines all look the same. I had Volkswagens with the 2.5 and it looks like the same plug they both used. I also like the way these are not a skinny bolt with a big washer. I have seen that on a non Volkswagen someone I knew had and it felt like when they designed that one that day they just used the cheapest bolt they had and called it a drain plug!
The same plug is used on my 2001 VW Golf TDI.
Good video and thanks for showing us this easy maint. I hate it that VW put the filter under the engine on this model. I loved the filter being on top with the Jetta and Tiguan that I had. I used a siphon pump to extract the oil which eliminates the need to change the crush washer. I think I’ll keep sucking it out on this engine also. Thanks again.
Thank you for the comment. It is an easy oil change.
The original plug has paint on it from when they made the pan. It was installed in the pan before painting. That paint on the plug shows how far it was in. I also have a feeling that the paint was causing you to have to need the ratchet repeatedly. With the next plug that is not likely to be painted black it should probably not cause you so much annoyance removing it. Typically oil plugs come out easier after the first one. Just stay out of quick change shops that are likely to damage your pain and put in a plastic insert and you shall have no more pan problems.
FYI Guys
Get the Oil directly from Dealership. It's about $8 1Qt. So 5 bottles cost only $40. It's way cheaper getting them from ECS tunning.
Also, the torque spec for the drain plug is 30NM = 22.13 ft/lbs. Just do 23 ft/lbs.
The first oil change you need to buy a new drain plug from dealership and a washer too. After that, you can just replace the washer.
The original drain plug won't let you remove the washer. Stupid design.
Happy Oil Change.
The drain plug with the built in washer is the better deal. The built in washer is superior to the crappy crush washer. You replace it new every time, and it acts like a thread chaser, keeping the threads in the oil pan fresh. Torquing that POS shorty drain plug to 23 ftlbs is pushing it. It goes torqued to 25nm as the shorter threads require less torque.
I bet shorter bolt will make it not drip as much oil before getting the bolt loose!
Great tutorial, did not need the lengthy nitrile glove review.
Thanks, but I had to do a review of the gloves since the company gave them to me to do so. They are definitely nice to have!
After you install the oil filter, the drain plug and then add oil at least 4qts while it's still on the ramps. You need to turn the car for a little bit then turn off and then go underneath the vehicle and check the oil filter and oil plug and make sure nothing is leaking. If everything looks good and there's no leaks, now you can install the splash shield. You didn't even check for leaks bro. You just installed the splash shield without making sure there's no leaks. No bueno... Now you can bring the vehicle down from the ramps and check the oil level and top it off.
I guess I'm too confident because I never have any leaks.
How can I change oil with out getting dirty ❤🙏
Just a note on these vw engines. Theyre all check level at running temperature. So if youre low when its cold and you fill it to full at cold, youre now overfilled.
Sorry, could you explain a little just to make it a little simpler to understand for a beginner?
@DsgSleazy the manual calls for the level check to be done with the engine hot. So if you fill to the top of the dipstick it and check the level when it is cold, the engine is over filled.
@@Cimone90that's not true at all. First off oil expands as it gets hotter. So if you check the oil level hot, you will *underfill* the crankcase. So when it cools back down (oil level lowers), you will actually be missing oil.
However, in truth oil expands so little, it's almost not noticeable on the dipstick. What will get you, is the oil filter. The oil filter will suck up at least 0.3-0.4L of oil. This particular vehicle fills with 4.2L. The correct procedure is to add 4L, start the engine, let it idle for a couple minutes. Shut it off, let the engine settle for a couple minutes, then check your level, and top it off.
@LynxStarAuto it's literally in the manual. And yeah, it does change quite a bit on the dipstick. I've owned a number of vws in the last decade, all have been the same in this regard.
Great video. Got my kit and doing my first oil change soon. How did the shorter drain bolt do? My kit came with the shorter one as well
Thank you. The shorter drain plug worked fine. I don't know why they did that, but there aren't any issues. Good luck with the oil change!
What about priming the engine? And does it honestly matter about it literally be oil from vw other than being 0w 20?
What do you mean by priming the engine? As far as the oil is concerned, make sure you use 0w-20 and that it's VW 508/509 approved.
Cory will you post when you change spark plug’s Volkswagen Taos ? Thanks
If I still have the vehicle by the time they need changed, then yes I will post a video.
My first oil change on my taos I had same issue with drain bolt 😂
Could you do the change without raising the vehicle?
It'd be too tight for me, but if you're small enough to do it, then go for it.
Cory how to get tools t45 complete because my Taos is time to change oil. Thank you
Check out ecstuning.com. That's where I bought the service kit at. You can go to your local auto parts store for the tools that you need.
I just finish do my oil change my Volkswagen Taos. Are you still keep it. Thanks
It wasn't my vehicle, so I don't have access to it anymore.
what oil filter wrench was that? i see the link in description but there is two sizes available
I'm pretty sure that it's the smaller one of the two.
if you would read the maintenance manual and know what you're doing you would understand the shorter bolt
Please explain
Did you actually change the oil at 10,000 miles? I cannot imagine going that long between changes.
No, I didn't. I changed it around 8000 miles because that's what worked for my schedule. It doesn't hurt to change it sooner if you'd like, but the 10,000 mile interval is fine.
@@CorysdiyautoIf you want to smoke for mosquitos at 60-70k you can keep doing 10k mile oil changes. I service these for a living. Use a high quality oil, and never exceed 7k miles.
And no, I'm not saying this to make more money. You service your own vehicle ffs. I have nothing to gain telling you this.
hi. Can I use aftermarket engine oil brands 0w 20 fully synthetic instead of the vw engine oil? Thanks
You can use any synthetic 0w-20 grade oil that meets Volkswagen's 508/509 spec approval.
Not sure if your Taos is FWD, but my AWD version does not have any T45 bolts in the back. My shield is a lot smaller than yours.
It's AWD. What year is yours?
2024@@Corysdiyauto
@@karlsarkozi3626 - Evidently they changed the design underneath.
Do I have to use the oil from Vw can’t I use mobil ?
You can use any brand that's 0w-20 and meets VW 508/509 specifications.
I did my 1 year service (oil change) at a dealer in Canada. They overfilled oil, probably didn't drain it well, oil color was quite brown 1st day, this splash shield is damaged, some of these hard flaps in front are bent, all this stuff flaps lips etc not aligned well, and in the back it's just dangling loose, didn't put back on any of the 3 screws in the back. And they scratched the paint and coating where they lifted the car down to metal (white color). And they started arguing with me, denying everything, asking me if I parked on a slope when I checked oil or what temperature... Like manual doesn't say how to check oil. Nightmare dealing with this on a 1 year car without a scratch and I cared for so well... Now I hate the car and VW and wanna go back to not having a car ever again cause I hate dealing with these crooks and what recourse do you have to get justice...
Sorry to hear about your experience. Sounds like the dealership has a bad service department. I definitely wouldn't go back there again. This is one of the reasons why I like to do as much as I can when it comes to car repair and maintenance. I hope that these DIY videos help people get enough courage to complete the work themselves. You should find a good reputable VW mechanic in your area if you don't want to do any of the work yourself. Good luck with everything.
Where did you get those Ramp?
I have a link in the description for the ramps.
Why do we need new drain plug? The original one can be re-use?
The original drain plug has an aluminum crush washer that is only supposed to be used once. The washer is meant to "crush" as you tighten it against the oil pan, which provides a seal to insure that there are no leaks. You might be able to get more than one use out of it, but I wouldn't take the chance. That's why ECS Tuning provided a new drain plug with the kit.
@@Corysdiyauto Oh. The washer cannot be replaced from the original drain plug?
I am trying to get a bunch of washer and oil filter from dealership. If that's the case, I will have to buy a new drain plug. It looks like the drain plug from ECS has separated washer.
@@noobwow2009 - The OEM drain plug includes the washer that can't be removed unless you cut it off. You can still use the original drain plug if you want, just find a new crush washer. If you take the drain plug to your local auto parts store, you might be able to find a replacement washer there.
@@Corysdiyauto Thanks! :D I think I will just get the package from ECS. Buying oil, washer and plug separately is more expensive. Mobil 1 ESP X2 / Castrol LL VW508 0W-20 are expensive. Cheapest oil I found is Valvoline Euro 0W20.
@@noobwow2009 - Yeah, I tried shopping around too. The kit from ECS Tuning is definitely the cheaper option.
What size crush washer does it use?
I'm not sure. It's pretty standard on all VW vehicles though.
@@Corysdiyauto M14 is the washer size. Am going to experiment with replacing it rather than collecting a jar full of plugs.
Thanks for sharing.
Why do you need to replace the bolt.
You don't need to. The only thing you need to replace is the crush washer. The drain plug and crush washer came in the kit, so I replaced them both.
What’s the vw recommended torque for drain plug and oil filter?
Sorry, I don't know what the torque specs are.
Torque: 22 ft/lbs (Oil Drain Plug)
@@biz4twobiz463 - Thank you!
The OEM drain plug with integrated washer (this one is superior to the replaceable crush washer style), calls for a torque of 30nm.
The drain plug he replaced it with, calls for a torque of 22nm. Be very careful torquing the shorty drain plug to factory spec. It will strip very easily.
Why do you have to change the drain plug?
You only need to replace the crush washer. The plug comes in the kit with a new washer, so I just use it. You can probably get away with using the old plug and washer, but I wouldn't want to chance getting a leak. Crush washers are meant to be used once and that's it.
How to check transmission fluid Volkswagen Taos 2022? Thanks
There isn't a way to check it unfortunately. The DSG transmission doesn't have a dipstick or a plug to check the level. There's no need to worry about the fluid level unless you have a leak or transmission issues. I believe the service interval is every 80,000 miles. I will eventually make a video of the transmission fluid change when I get to that point.
@@Corysdiyauto I think is every 40 000 mile dsg service that is what it was on my jetta tdi
Yes, it is 40,000 on the DSG for the TDI. I think they've changed the interval.
Is this the 1.5t motor?
Yes it is
Ever thought of just making an oil change video? Ever thought about first explaining why you replacing an oil drain plug oil on a new vehicle?
I've done a few oil change videos on my channel. The company that I bought the oil change kit from sent me a new plug and crush washer. You cannot remove the old crush washer from the OEM drain plug unless you cut it off. I chose to use the supplied drain plug with the new crush washer that came in the kit.
Not going to use oem filter
That's fine, you don't have to.
Cross tread 😂