I laughed out loud when you were talking about "this won't snowball into a full restoration" then the words came on the screen "it does". I absolutely love full restorations. A lot of channels get something running and then abandon it.
I really wish more YTers showed their mistakes, Farmcraft101 does the same. It shows they are human and how to correct those mistakes. The troubleshooting process is extremely important!
Another piece of old equipment is on it's way back to a usable state. Don't ever apologise for your efforts to make something look better by giving it a coat of paint. The fact that you take pride in what you do, says volumes about you. We love your channel, your projects and all your effort. Love, health and respect from Scotland UK.
I used to restore antique farm equipment for a living. I feel your pain! The fact that you are willing to rescue an older unit is going to take you far. You have saved yourself thousands on a good welder, and that makes more sense than new any day.
Fast becoming a top UA-cam site for fixing up salvaged stuff nobody wants yet still has a long life.. which the cheap roll it out quick for profit guys hate. Long live the human ingenuity which inspires you. And the honesty is truly more educating that 'just lets watch someone always getting it right' which always leaves me wondering.
Matt, firstly, it’s so great to see you back posting again and back to your old self. Secondly, it was so good to see you put that motor up on pallets to work on it at a good height, simple but effective. Thirdly, I love these recovery of old metal channels, the important thing to remember here is that you have resurrected an old piece of equipment, cleaned it up, restored it to original and now whether you choose to sell it on or use it for yourself, you now have a solid asset. A lot of the other shows I think only transport someone’s old metal from one place to another, get it going and then it sit at there place and just deteriorates again, no value. Anyway great content mate, well done and stay well
Dude came across your channel today got lots of cool stuff going. If you're ever in California hit me up I got some pretty old equipment you probably would get a kick out of one of those including a 1928 caterpillar motor hand crank to start one of a kind. Got a bunch of these old Lincolns too.. anyhow great stuff keep it going
Repairing and restoring is pleasant to see. So many things are just thrown away these days. Back in the late 1940s, 1950s, and early 1960s people used and restored everything. There was a saying, " Use everything twice ". We still had shortage and still on rationing after the war. It was important to use what we had. It is important today that people learn to use what they have, not just what they want.
@@iTeerRexSadly, everything nowadays is built with planned obsolescence in mind. Parts not available after a couple of years, shoddy electronics and thinner metals all contribute to this. I am dealing with it now with a dishawasher that isn’t even 3 years old. Need a control board. No longer available. What a joke!
@@tundrajt Yup, and with most everything having a control board nowadays, the obsolescence can be programmed in. As opposed to actual physical failure.
I watched the 1st vid and was frustrated watching you work practically on the floor. Now I can't take it anymore :) You have a lift...use the arms to suspend things to work on. Use it to lift/hang things. Throw a piece of ply over arms and use as an adjustable height work surface. Work smarter...more comfortable...not harder :)
For your Tank cleanup. I use critic acid that you use to clean coffee machines to remove kalk. i used it for my motorcycle tank. use warm water (not more than 80°C) and around 100g of citric acid powder and fill the tank with it. let it sit for around 1 hour, clean it up and let it dry. after that i use phosphoric acid, just to coat the surface on the inside of the tank and let the exess drop out of it and let it dry again. that builds a Iron phosphate layer that wont allow rust (iron oxygen) to build again and wont dissolve from gasoline or diesel. you can also paint over that layer if you want to use it on exterior surfaces. most rust converters are based on phosphoric acid and do much the same but to a higher price. both indigence are dirt cheap i got 200g of citric acid for 2€ and the acid 1 liter for 15€ that is reusable for other stuff.
You didn't take this too far at all... you realized that this machine - as bad as it looked - wasn't that far gone, and so with a little bit of extra effort you could bring it almost all the way back to pristine condition. I think it was a great decision. I love taking old stuff and making it look new again... whereas you find a lot of satisfaction just in getting things fully functional/operational again. It's ALL good. Thanks for sharing this with us.
When you are all finished with the rebuild, find someone who sews up tents and awnings and have them make you a cover for the unit if you plan on keeping it outside or when you are transporting it between jobs. They can also sew a tube of material to the cover to accommodate the exhaust stack and lifting hook.
I love that you ended up taking the time to not only do it right, but also restore it to its original function (like the fuel solenoid safety) and upgrade it with the keyed starter. The refreshed paint job was a satisfying cherry on top! It's already looking good and I can't wait to see what you end up with. Big thumbs up from this subscriber!
This and previous video are the only two of yours that I was watching so far. . Very entertaining. You remind me of myself 30 odd years ago. Everything I did went to the end degree. Much of the time the extra work did not necessarily make good business sense, but I got alot of satisfaction and pleasure from it and it made the hours of wracked knuckles and lumps on my head all worth it. After I got your gist I knew exactly what you were going to do. Just like the younger me , as the project moved along positively you were never going to be satisfied with just getting it functioning. When you cleaned the engine I knew you were going to announce that you were going to paint it. And then I started chuckling when you said you were going to do a quick rattle can job on the engine and "not a complete restoration" ( sure he ain't ! 😅 ) The radiator was never going back on unpainted nor was anything else ! Once it's on a trailer it will be a useful , clean and valuable piece of gear. You can use it yourself or even rent it out as welding plant or for electrical generation .. I do think Lady Luck was on your side with this one, but notwithstanding that you also put in a lot of hard work.. You made a good call and bought me great relief when you gave up on the engine removal in order to paint it ! The most satisfying part of the video was when that test lamp came on confirming electrical output. I think I shouted louder than you.. Excellent work , great videos !
Love the transformation this far. Attention to detail and the small things. Love the color scheme! It would look super cool with some oldschool vinyl graphics on it.
Little tip for masking off threaded unions, hose nipples, studs etc, use baking foil. Just scrunch it up around the part and it just stays in place, and it's much easier and quicker to remove than masking tape. Great to see a perfectly useable piece of equipment rescued and put back into service for the sake of some time and effort.
The thoroughness of your observations and repair/reconditioning techniques will pay you back the whole time you have your device 1st time watching I will return.
I have done electrolysis on a motorbike tank after doing a "chain" tumble, it worked great at getting out the last bit of rust! When I was done, and I wasn't putting the tank back on right away, I put about a cup of WD-40, in and rotated to cover the entire inside to keep it from rusting until I installed it. I highly recommend the electrolysis, it was fairly easy, I used a 12V battery charger, some borax... and it was done. No need for a coat of paint inside the fuel keeps it from rusting.
Splitting the engine from the gen is done by removing the starter and unbolting the gen flywheel adapter that fits inside the engine flywheel trough the starter hole
For getting rid of rust cheaply, I use PH reducer for spas and pools, which is basically Sodium Bisulphate. It comes in big tubs in granular form, so you can mix as much as you want and make it as strong as you want and it's really cheap. It works well, but as with any acid, you have to keep an eye on it and not leave what you're treating for too long, as it will also eat away the metal too. If you want safe, but expensive, it has to be Evapo Rust
I think you will find there is a flexible plate that bolts to the engine flywheel and the front of the alternator shaft. Access to those is by removing the vented cover at the front of the alternator. The altenator shaft is supported by a bearing in the rear, and the engine rear bearing at the front.
Good tip for avoiding a mess when pouring paint from a can is use tape to make a v shape on the top. Stops the paint going in the rim and down the side. 👍🏾
1:56. Plenty of light….you never have too much light for painting, but considering the project…….. you should be fine 😂. I’ve seen a lot of equipment paint applied by both roller and brush lately so you’re light years ahead of most. 😊. Sediment bowl will catch any tiny flakes that might remain, and the diesel will prevent any further rusting. Probably in better shape than 90% of fuel tanks existing. Has another final filter in the system? Yer golden.
Nice! Painted, you have definitely increased its "socially distant" value 10-fold! Great job! That is a great looking pig you got there! On tumbling the fuel tank, Muriatic {pool} acid mixed with some water. It is much faster and cheaper than Evaporust. Let it sit, shake it around. The acid will not hurt fresh metal. It will only remove the rust. Just rinse it really well. Don't use baking soda to neutralize it. It's almost impossible to get it all back out of the tank. If you go the acid route, the tire spin is not necessary. Do it by hand. It will cost you less than 10 bucks. Hope this helps.
The part 2 video of repairing the old welding machine. Man it's looking Great just a few more parts to be added and it will be ready to go back to work. Great job Matt with the attention to the details.
Outstanding Sir, that's not and pig with lipstick. That's custom classic restoration. I did nearly the same with my "Lincoln150 amps AC/DC weld and power ". It has 4500 watts output. I rebuilt it and the 12hp Kohler engine. My neighbor used it and fell in love. Cost me $50.00 engine knocked, but struck an arc. Keep up your videos, pass the knowledge on to the young techs.
I wouldn't worry any further about the tank. You have a sediment bowl. The diesel will clean what's left in it. If you're really worried about it, put an inline filter on the system.
Derek at vice Grip Garage painted his 78 Ford pickup at a friend's, and the friend showed a GREAT way to use a few strips of tape to prevent spillage from a gallon can, reduce mess, and save on clean-up time! Paul
Vinegar actually does work pretty good if you don't mind waiting 24 hours. Maybe put some sand in the tank with the vinegar and shake around for a half hour. I've seen it strip off rust with success. Glad to see you rescuing this equipment. Im the same way. I can get pretty meticulous especially with wiring. Great stuff man!
Looks great. Many buy powdered citric acid and mix a pound per 5 gal of water. Neutralize with backing soda water. Some people with just rust on the bottom use acetone. It dries fast. I would definately make a cover for it, maybe even padded in the areas it will get knocked around more. Not the greatest material but HF painters tarp and moving blanket or two will get you some material. Painter's tarp is white but hit it with an upholstery paint a color you like.
Oh you have the best opportunity to test, JB Weld. Fix that manifold let's see how good it is. I think you said you were buying a new one. Test JB Weld I have fix alot of things it has always worked sealed off a fuel pump hold on my 69 grandpix. You have the perfect opportunity. Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Hi there I remember you getting that Generator and Wilder That was a really good video watching you do it all up and get it working watching your videos where you get a machine that's sitting around for a long time and it starts up keep up for great work Ralph from the UK
46:15 Regarding the fuel tank, skip the fuel bowl and go straight to a nice 5 micron diesel filter. I wouldn't do anything more with the tank other than a good fuel filter.
Thank you so much for sticking in there, from a fan. Lee 6pak from edinburgh.days I'm feeling down or not myself. A replay of one of your fima cheers m up. Thank you
Put some Evaporust or rust converter in the tank, just enough to fill the bottom. Take your air hose nozzle, put it in the tank, and blow the treatment around inside the tank (cover the neck with a towel to prevent splash back). Let it sit for the allotted time, then pour out the treatment. Might take a couple of tries to get it all, but much more efficient than trying to fill the whole tank.
I like to use some drain cleaner. A good acid. Tumble it with some bolts. Baking soda to neutralize the acid. Rinse it out with water. Then put some ATF in it to coat it as you dry it to keep it from rusting. Ready to go with diesel fuel.
You don't need to completely fill the tank with Evaporust. Evaporust is re-useable. Just fill the tank with about about an inch high on the bottom. Leave it in that position over night. Then pour it out through a filter to recover the Evaporust. Then turn the tank on it's side and fill it up about an inch high and leave it over night. Repeat for each side of the tank.
Oh I think you should sand blast it and then take it to the old welder show .Youll lose points to the judges if ya don't do it right! Here's a hot tip I discovered trying various chemicls out. I went to home depot and got some driveway and concrete cleaner from the DEP conpany.I sprayed it on an 5.3 LS engine and let is soak for an hour then hit it with the presurewasher .It softened the oil and caked road dust , took off some of the rust where the paint was missing, the carbon in the exhaust ports in the aluminum head we perfectly clean and bare and all the outside aluminum oxidiation fuzz was gone and smooth. It's just the right amount of corrosive to not damage to anything .Best cleaner I ever used on an engine.Gunk and Easyoff oven cleaner doesn't touch it! The key to no runs is to fog a tack coat and let it dry right up ,then when you come over it with the second coat the first coat acts as a sponge sucking at the solvent out of the second coat and flashes off quicker before it runs. The third coat you can flood when you can gentally drag you finger over the paint without it sticking to your finger but if you stop youll leave a finger print from the heat of your body.Ive been painting cars for 35 years.I've always said if you want it nice paint it twice. Paint sanded smooth makes a better paint base then primer unless you use sealer which is ok but painting over the same colour as a value shade gives you a better result because sealer will shrink and once paints dry and cured its stable. I have a friend who wraps cars and can scan anything on a scanner, clean it up on the cut and paste program ,enlarge it and print it on to a quailty decal to stick over your aluminum plate for your dash . There must be some guy doing wraps in your neighbour hood.Your rig looks good!
Hey buddy you could use your masking tape for an edge on your paint tin ? Paint runs occur through just to much paint 💯light coats then finish with lacquer coat. great video sir! Your views are honest and believable
@Salvage Workshop - I feel your pain. In the process of restoring '79 SA200 Blackface. Installed the Murphy gauges at the top of the front panel. Done a test fire and welder fired right up, then when I tried to power it off it would not shutdown....LOL. Had left one of the old wires attached and apparently the switch was hot all the time. Luckily, I just shut the fuel off at the bowl and it will eventually run out of gas, which only takes about 15 seconds. Doing some electrolysis of the gas tank right now but trying to figure out how to keep it from flash rusting after I am done cleaning it out.
You can coat the inside of your fuel tank with diesel fuel. With the tank moist with fuel, you can build a fire and place the tank in the fire with the cap off, right side up. The fuel will cook out and coat the surfaces with gum. Alternatively, you could have the tank dipped in zinc for a professional job.
Love the Blåkläder! Swedish top quality in workwear. Blue Clothes. That's what we call work wear or mechanical overalls. "Dra på mig min blåkläder". Put on my work wear!
I really like copper plating as rust protection on iron when painting is not an option. It's really easy, but the metal has to be rust and oil free. All you need is copper sulfate and a little bit of sulfuric acid. Make a copper sulfate solution and add 1-2% 10% sulfuric acid. (the ratio isn't that important, it's there to dissolve the thin iron oxide layer to make the copper stick) Applied to iron, it will plate the surface instantly with a very thin layer of copper. To get the plating ticker, get some small stones (coarse sand) and tumble with the solution it for 2-5 minutes. The tumbling will make sure the copper is really holding onto the iron. If tumbling isn't an option rubbing it on with cloth works also. The positives are: - it's cheap - it's easy to use - it's very resistant solvents The negatives: - it's really thin and you can scratch it easily. - it's just like paint a protective layer, nothing more - copper sulfate is a poison and will kill your lawn.
You are a very skilled and talented person, I really dig how you think outside of the box to solve a problem. I really did watching your videos and have learned a lot. Lol... You should have been my second father....lol. stay well
Fuel tank. You don't need to fill it with Evaporust. Take a gallon of EVR and fill the tank with clean rags, pour in the EVR, and soak the rags. Turn the tank every hour or so, hitting as many sides and angles as you can orient it in. After about 12 hours, check the inside for effect. If satisfied, pull the rags out, drain the EVR from them, and rebottle it for reuse. The tank didn't really have much fuel in it at that point. Wipe the inside of the tank with an oily rag to prevent flash rust if you aren't refilling it with fuel any time soon.
45:00 You’ll only need 1 Gal of EvapoRust and just rotate it on each of the sides for 2hours. That small amount of rust won’t take very long, EvapoRust works very quickly if the surfaces have been properly degreased (Hot water and driveway cleaner) Alternatively you said didn’t want to go electrolysis BUT tanks are GREAT cuz you can make the entire tank part of the circuit and stick an isolated piece of rebar w/ curled sheet of thin steel attached that expands out inside the tank. Cuz the process is primarily line of sight just aim the flat side of the sheet parallel to the rusty area. Keep a plastic lid on top of the mouth or place a wooden dowel across to suspend it from. Add the solution of washing soda and water, Hook up your vintage battery charger and away you go.
I’m very impressed by what you’ve done, you definitely took it further than I thought you would. You keep saying, I should put a new this or that, but I had this in stock. That’s the whole reason you keep all of those parts, use them because they’re fine and it looks beautiful. It’s not like a tractor that you take it all the way, for show. The most important thing is it’s operational and complete. Watching from Panama City Florida,USA. 🇺🇸🦅 You know who’s really gonna be impressed? The guy you got it from.
*@**1:29:38* To correctly use a solenoid here, run a spring to the rack lever, to always shut off. (Deadman) Run battery 12v through a keyed switch, to energize the "rack on" solenoid. That oil pressure sending unit can be either for an electric pressure gauge, or an ignition cutoff if this were a gasoline engine. For diesel it should go the fuel. No oil=no run. Same for over temp too, just to be safe. That small engine can get real hot, real quick. Keep up on thermostats & quality coolant. This really turned out nice, Eric!
The Japanese are very clever and I think the black stuff in the tank is tar, and they put it in to do exactly what you said, protect the metal from corrosion
If you take the cover off the end of the armature you will see a bolt right in the center. If you remove that it might come apart but it usually takes a jacking bolt to break it loose. Once you get that center bolt out, look inside you’ll see some other threads (not used for holding it together) that is for jacking it apart with a spacer rod. In the future this’ll work on a lot of gen sets.
Little tip for sanding, use a block for a better finish without finger furrows. Also when spraying try to maintain 6-8 inches distance between the panel and spray nozzle. May find less runs. But awesome work as always man! Hats off to you for the level of care taken on this restoration. Keep up the great work 👌💪😎
Phosforic acid will remove rust, and convert into a white powder, so you’re left with bare metal. You will need to rinse out the tank with water afterwards. Phosforic acid is the common element of a lot of rust removers. You will not need to fill it all up with acid. Just tumble it slowly. You can try it on a small, rusty part to see how it works. You buy the acid in concentrated form and dilute it with water.
I came across 2 generators that are diesel, I don't know if they are 1 phase or 3. They were using these for electricity and decided to go with Generac. They put them in storage and were running when taken out. While watching you I think I can make a welder out of them. I have a neighbor that has a rewinding business and he is going to check them out when I pick them up. I can't lose cause they were given to me. I have learned a lot by watching you. Thanks for your page!!
Very nice to see old dinged up , crusty equipment restored . I have watched you enough to know you would take it to the next level. Which I,m glad you did , looks nice , and cleaning up electrical, more functional . With extra gauges , even better. I think the old decal on front name plate , with cracking across it , adds nostalgia back to it , even though looking like new unit now. Thoughts on graphics , a silhouette of a man with OLD style helmet on and stinger and rod in position , with Bright ARC FLASH going up behind him , that image just above SALVAGE WORKSHOP .
One gallon of EvapoRust should be plenty to do the tank. It doesn't have to be full, especially if you're not in a hurry and can roll it to put whatever part at the bottom that you want to de-rust. Then you pour it back into the bottle to re-use.
It looks great, awesome bringing back something that most would have scraped it out. Keep the restoration videos coming a pleaser to watch. Very informative and been learning a lot from your channel.
You have done such an excellent job on this machine so far. You attention to detail never ceases to amaze and impress me. On a side note, I am personally not a fan of spray paint in cans. In comparison to mixing up paint and using a sprayer, you get paint quality that is ten times more durable and looks better way longer. I also do not like the fact that spray cans of any kind are not recyclable.
Sir,I commend u not just for restoring this old welder but taking the time to explain the various functions of said equipment.U r the jack of all trades when it comes to vintage working construction heavy equiptment.Peace.....
It's really looking good and I really liked the method of cleaning the tank. Regarding your dropping stuff through the pallet, you could always screw on an old piece of plywood or some of that cardboard.
You’re on the right track repairing that machine. It will be a convenient tool in the field once it’s all good to go. I’m a big fan of blue, so I think you’ve done a great job colouring it up too.
a good rust remover is jenolite it converts rust into a stable compound that can be left or painted over. put some in the tank and slosh it around a bit so all surfaces get coated. Jobs a good one!
When you said throw back looking/old school decals the first thing I thought was the A-team van for some reason, I think the machine puts me in mind of something they'd find and get running to build whatever they needed wherever they were. Anyways great project, really enjoyed it so far and cant wait to see the final result.
Great job, it will last for years. You can weld this exhaust manifold with cast iron "on cold" using electrode with hammering - type. AWS A5.15 ENiFe-CI, i.e. LINCOLN SUPERFONTE NiFe or i.e. ESAB OK 92.58. Remove the old weld. Weld without preheating, one pass at a time with forging/hammering. Fi 2.5 mm should work, electrodes in vac pack ready to weld otherwise re-drying in oven i.e. 2h / 300 C deg. I have done this many times when repairing cast iron parts for old machunery. B.R. from POLAND.
You should save your index finger from pain and get one of those 'cheap' trigger handle. Evapo-Rust 32 OZ $13 Amazon A blue color was my choice. Metallic Blue is even better!! Metallic paints have a problem of running. At 1:19:25. maybe you should have painted that connector's cover RED, so you don't, by chance, reverse your leads. Unless they are polarized. --- Nice job, and I can appreciate all the work it took! 👍
Always a pleasure to watch and learn about resurrecting old and abandoned machinery. You have a great work ethic and spirit ..you explain things clearly. Always look forward to the next videos sir . Love all the dogs .
Don’t forget an earth/ground bonding Test/checks through the frame, generator and engine you may need to fit bonding braid strips after all that painting!!! star washers on bolts are good for continuity too. Just to keep you safe mate with those voltages !!!
You forgot your baking sheets, buddy. Always have baking sheets and some extra magnets when working on top of pallets. Especially when ya slide them between the layers. Godsend for not having to fish out bolts you fumble between the slats.
Rinse the inside of the tank with a little diesel to remove loose particles. Keep the tank topped off full of diesel each time after using it. Call it good. The tank will outlive the rest of the machine. Don't make this too hard. Love the videos. keep up the good work.
Oh hey... I just watched you spill the metallic blue - I don't know where I saw this trick, but if you take some tape and make a V across the hole in the can with the bottom of the V at the edge of the can, you can avoid all that - really cool trick. Give it a try if you think of it.
I give you credit for devotion to your passions. You outdid yourself on this welder. It should last many years and weld a bunch of metal - if it ain't too pretty to use. Great job!
We used some real dry sand to clean out some mower tanks. Took a wheel bearing from a mini van to spin and win. Variable speed fan motor to turn it. It worked.
Really awesome restore on this! Love the color scheme you got going on. As for your dashboard you don't need to source a new one all you need to do is have it scanned and either have someone laser etch a new one on a new sheet of metal or you can have a new vinyl decal made to cover your original one. The vinyl is cheaper and looks pretty decent.
People will complain just to complain. Who cares about the paint job as it is going to covered. The paint has two jobs, one to protect the metal and one for eye candy. I’m sure we all appreciate you reviving old equipment that most would turn their nose at. The first blue looked great on shell.
Pressure washer the inside of your tank to get any remnants of the gunk off the bottom. Flush that out and dry then put rust converter in it to treat any rusty areas. Do not use muratic acid or vinegar. It will take the tin plating off the inside which will make it rust much quicker in the future. Have done several rusty tanks this way. Much happier with results than with acid.
Really hoping that another video is made showing the finished item.. He's got through the really difficult stuff and risk of failure. Would be great to see it painted and on a trailer..
I laughed out loud when you were talking about "this won't snowball into a full restoration" then the words came on the screen "it does". I absolutely love full restorations. A lot of channels get something running and then abandon it.
Don’t ever feel bad for trying to make something you have look nice. You’re proud of it.
I like this guy, he's very humble and not afraid to show his mistakes
I really wish more YTers showed their mistakes, Farmcraft101 does the same. It shows they are human and how to correct those mistakes. The troubleshooting process is extremely important!
Another piece of old equipment is on it's way back to a usable state. Don't ever apologise for your efforts to make something look better by giving it a coat of paint. The fact that you take pride in what you do, says volumes about you. We love your channel, your projects and all your effort. Love, health and respect from Scotland UK.
I concur!
Old stuff is, for the most part better than the junk they make today!
@@farmerbrown3768Back when quality was more important than shareholders
I used to restore antique farm equipment for a living. I feel your pain! The fact that you are willing to rescue an older unit is going to take you far. You have saved yourself thousands on a good welder, and that makes more sense than new any day.
Fast becoming a top UA-cam site for fixing up salvaged stuff nobody wants yet still has a long life.. which the cheap roll it out quick for profit guys hate. Long live the human ingenuity which inspires you. And the honesty is truly more educating that 'just lets watch someone always getting it right' which always leaves me wondering.
Dude....well said!
Matt, firstly, it’s so great to see you back posting again and back to your old self. Secondly, it was so good to see you put that motor up on pallets to work on it at a good height, simple but effective. Thirdly, I love these recovery of old metal channels, the important thing to remember here is that you have resurrected an old piece of equipment, cleaned it up, restored it to original and now whether you choose to sell it on or use it for yourself, you now have a solid asset. A lot of the other shows I think only transport someone’s old metal from one place to another, get it going and then it sit at there place and just deteriorates again, no value. Anyway great content mate, well done and stay well
Dude came across your channel today got lots of cool stuff going. If you're ever in California hit me up I got some pretty old equipment you probably would get a kick out of one of those including a 1928 caterpillar motor hand crank to start one of a kind. Got a bunch of these old Lincolns too.. anyhow great stuff keep it going
Repairing and restoring is pleasant to see. So many things are just thrown away these days. Back in the late 1940s, 1950s, and early 1960s people used and restored everything. There was a saying, " Use everything twice ". We still had shortage and still on rationing after the war. It was important to use what we had. It is important today that people learn to use what they have, not just what they want.
There is a UA-camr name Mustie1 who uses Acetone for/on rust inside old tanks 🤔😊💣 !
And to restore, repair, modify, refurbish, and reuse things, we must buy things that are made well. None of these disposable rubbish.
@@iTeerRexSadly, everything nowadays is built with planned obsolescence in mind. Parts not available after a couple of years, shoddy electronics and thinner metals all contribute to this. I am dealing with it now with a dishawasher that isn’t even 3 years old. Need a control board. No longer available. What a joke!
I remember when service stations would refurbish spark plugs when
they did a tune up.
@@tundrajt Yup, and with most everything having a control board nowadays, the obsolescence can be programmed in. As opposed to actual physical failure.
I watched the 1st vid and was frustrated watching you work practically on the floor. Now I can't take it anymore :) You have a lift...use the arms to suspend things to work on. Use it to lift/hang things. Throw a piece of ply over arms and use as an adjustable height work surface. Work smarter...more comfortable...not harder :)
For your Tank cleanup. I use critic acid that you use to clean coffee machines to remove kalk. i used it for my motorcycle tank. use warm water (not more than 80°C) and around 100g of citric acid powder and fill the tank with it. let it sit for around 1 hour, clean it up and let it dry. after that i use phosphoric acid, just to coat the surface on the inside of the tank and let the exess drop out of it and let it dry again. that builds a Iron phosphate layer that wont allow rust (iron oxygen) to build again and wont dissolve from gasoline or diesel. you can also paint over that layer if you want to use it on exterior surfaces. most rust converters are based on phosphoric acid and do much the same but to a higher price.
both indigence are dirt cheap i got 200g of citric acid for 2€ and the acid 1 liter for 15€ that is reusable for other stuff.
You didn't take this too far at all... you realized that this machine - as bad as it looked - wasn't that far gone, and so with a little bit of extra effort you could bring it almost all the way back to pristine condition. I think it was a great decision. I love taking old stuff and making it look new again... whereas you find a lot of satisfaction just in getting things fully functional/operational again. It's ALL good. Thanks for sharing this with us.
When you are all finished with the rebuild, find someone who sews up tents and awnings and have them make you a cover for the unit if you plan on keeping it outside or when you are transporting it between jobs. They can also sew a tube of material to the cover to accommodate the exhaust stack and lifting hook.
Unless it’s tight, a cover during transport will beat that paint to death.
what he said, it need a cover.
I love that you ended up taking the time to not only do it right, but also restore it to its original function (like the fuel solenoid safety) and upgrade it with the keyed starter. The refreshed paint job was a satisfying cherry on top! It's already looking good and I can't wait to see what you end up with. Big thumbs up from this subscriber!
Youve done an amazing job of troubleshooting and figuring our all the operation points of this portable welder.
This and previous video are the only two of yours that I was watching so far. . Very entertaining. You remind me of myself 30 odd years ago. Everything I did went to the end degree. Much of the time the extra work did not necessarily make good business sense, but I got alot of satisfaction and pleasure from it and it made the hours of wracked knuckles and lumps on my head all worth it.
After I got your gist I knew exactly what you were going to do. Just like the younger me , as the project moved along positively you were never going to be satisfied with just getting it functioning. When you cleaned the engine I knew you were going to announce that you were going to paint it. And then I started chuckling when you said you were going to do a quick rattle can job on the engine and "not a complete restoration" ( sure he ain't ! 😅 ) The radiator was never going back on unpainted nor was anything else !
Once it's on a trailer it will be a useful , clean and valuable piece of gear. You can use it yourself or even rent it out as welding plant or for electrical generation ..
I do think Lady Luck was on your side with this one, but notwithstanding that you also put in a lot of hard work.. You made a good call and bought me great relief when you gave up on the engine removal in order to paint it !
The most satisfying part of the video was when that test lamp came on confirming electrical output. I think I shouted louder than you..
Excellent work , great videos !
Good job.. I like to install Murphy switch gauges for Oil & Temp on all my welding machines since I hammer on them welding pipeline all day..😎
Love the transformation this far. Attention to detail and the small things. Love the color scheme! It would look super cool with some oldschool vinyl graphics on it.
Little tip for masking off threaded unions, hose nipples, studs etc, use baking foil. Just scrunch it up around the part and it just stays in place, and it's much easier and quicker to remove than masking tape. Great to see a perfectly useable piece of equipment rescued and put back into service for the sake of some time and effort.
The thoroughness of your observations and repair/reconditioning techniques will pay you back the whole time you have your device 1st time watching I will return.
I have done electrolysis on a motorbike tank after doing a "chain" tumble, it worked great at getting out the last bit of rust! When I was done, and I wasn't putting the tank back on right away, I put about a cup of WD-40, in and rotated to cover the entire inside to keep it from rusting until I installed it. I highly recommend the electrolysis, it was fairly easy, I used a 12V battery charger, some borax... and it was done. No need for a coat of paint inside the fuel keeps it from rusting.
Splitting the engine from the gen is done by removing the starter and unbolting the gen flywheel adapter that fits inside the engine flywheel trough the starter hole
I love the tanks tumble solution. That’s awesome
For getting rid of rust cheaply, I use PH reducer for spas and pools, which is basically Sodium Bisulphate. It comes in big tubs in granular form, so you can mix as much as you want and make it as strong as you want and it's really cheap. It works well, but as with any acid, you have to keep an eye on it and not leave what you're treating for too long, as it will also eat away the metal too.
If you want safe, but expensive, it has to be Evapo Rust
Great, meticulous job. Amazed at your patience.
Great Video. 👍
You can remove rust from the tank with citric acid. Works wonderfully and is very cheap.
Greetings from Germany. 😉
Paul
I think you will find there is a flexible plate that bolts to the engine flywheel and the front of the alternator shaft. Access to those is by removing the vented cover at the front of the alternator. The altenator shaft is supported by a bearing in the rear, and the engine rear bearing at the front.
Good tip for avoiding a mess when pouring paint from a can is use tape to make a v shape on the top. Stops the paint going in the rim and down the side. 👍🏾
1:56. Plenty of light….you never have too much light for painting, but considering the project…….. you should be fine 😂. I’ve seen a lot of equipment paint applied by both roller and brush lately so you’re light years ahead of most. 😊. Sediment bowl will catch any tiny flakes that might remain, and the diesel will prevent any further rusting. Probably in better shape than 90% of fuel tanks existing. Has another final filter in the system? Yer golden.
Nice! Painted, you have definitely increased its "socially distant" value 10-fold! Great job! That is a great looking pig you got there! On tumbling the fuel tank, Muriatic {pool} acid mixed with some water. It is much faster and cheaper than Evaporust. Let it sit, shake it around. The acid will not hurt fresh metal. It will only remove the rust. Just rinse it really well. Don't use baking soda to neutralize it. It's almost impossible to get it all back out of the tank.
If you go the acid route, the tire spin is not necessary. Do it by hand. It will cost you less than 10 bucks. Hope this helps.
The part 2 video
of repairing the
old welding
machine. Man it's
looking Great
just a few more
parts to be added
and it will be ready
to go back to
work. Great job
Matt with the
attention to the
details.
Outstanding Sir, that's not and pig with lipstick. That's custom classic restoration. I did nearly the same with my "Lincoln150 amps AC/DC weld and power ". It has 4500 watts output. I rebuilt it and the 12hp Kohler engine. My neighbor used it and fell in love. Cost me $50.00 engine knocked, but struck an arc. Keep up your videos, pass the knowledge on to the young techs.
Good Evening , Sir , I hope you are having a fantastic weekend Sir ! 😊
I wouldn't worry any further about the tank. You have a sediment bowl. The diesel will clean what's left in it. If you're really worried about it, put an inline filter on the system.
Derek at vice Grip Garage painted his 78 Ford pickup at a friend's, and the friend showed a GREAT way to use a few strips of tape to prevent spillage from a gallon can, reduce mess, and save on clean-up time!
Paul
Vinegar actually does work pretty good if you don't mind waiting 24 hours.
Maybe put some sand in the tank with the vinegar and shake around for a half hour. I've seen it strip off rust with success.
Glad to see you rescuing this equipment.
Im the same way. I can get pretty meticulous especially with wiring.
Great stuff man!
Looks great. Many buy powdered citric acid and mix a pound per 5 gal of water. Neutralize with backing soda water. Some people with just rust on the bottom use acetone. It dries fast. I would definately make a cover for it, maybe even padded in the areas it will get knocked around more. Not the greatest material but HF painters tarp and moving blanket or two will get you some material. Painter's tarp is white but hit it with an upholstery paint a color you like.
Oh you have the best opportunity to test, JB Weld. Fix that manifold let's see how good it is. I think you said you were buying a new one. Test JB Weld
I have fix alot of things it has always worked sealed off a fuel pump hold on my 69 grandpix.
You have the perfect opportunity.
Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Hi there I remember you getting that Generator and Wilder That was a really good video watching you do it all up and get it working watching your videos where you get a machine that's sitting around for a long time and it starts up keep up for great work
Ralph from the UK
46:15
Regarding the fuel tank, skip the fuel bowl and go straight to a nice 5 micron diesel filter. I wouldn't do anything more with the tank other than a good fuel filter.
Thank you so much for sticking in there, from a fan. Lee 6pak from edinburgh.days I'm feeling down or not myself. A replay of one of your fima cheers m up. Thank you
Put some Evaporust or rust converter in the tank, just enough to fill the bottom. Take your air hose nozzle, put it in the tank, and blow the treatment around inside the tank (cover the neck with a towel to prevent splash back). Let it sit for the allotted time, then pour out the treatment. Might take a couple of tries to get it all, but much more efficient than trying to fill the whole tank.
The fuel tank spinning on the drive wheel of a van on blocks...thought I had switched over to Red Green channel 😂
45:30 Yes, tumble evaporust. This will remove the rust inside. Then you need some polymer (epoxy to tumble and coat the inside.
You can figure it out.
I like to use some drain cleaner. A good acid. Tumble it with some bolts. Baking soda to neutralize the acid. Rinse it out with water. Then put some ATF in it to coat it as you dry it to keep it from rusting. Ready to go with diesel fuel.
You don't need to completely fill the tank with Evaporust. Evaporust is re-useable. Just fill the tank with about about an inch high on the bottom. Leave it in that position over night. Then pour it out through a filter to recover the Evaporust. Then turn the tank on it's side and fill it up about an inch high and leave it over night. Repeat for each side of the tank.
Oh I think you should sand blast it and then take it to the old welder show .Youll lose points to the judges if ya don't do it right! Here's a hot tip I discovered trying various chemicls out. I went to home depot and got some driveway and concrete cleaner from the DEP conpany.I sprayed it on an 5.3 LS engine and let is soak for an hour then hit it with the presurewasher .It softened the oil and caked road dust , took off some of the rust where the paint was missing, the carbon in the exhaust ports in the aluminum head we perfectly clean and bare and all the outside aluminum oxidiation fuzz was gone and smooth. It's just the right amount of corrosive to not damage to anything .Best cleaner I ever used on an engine.Gunk and Easyoff oven cleaner doesn't touch it!
The key to no runs is to fog a tack coat and let it dry right up ,then when you come over it with the second coat the first coat acts as a sponge sucking at the solvent out of the second coat and flashes off quicker before it runs. The third coat you can flood when you can gentally drag you finger over the paint without it sticking to your finger but if you stop youll leave a finger print from the heat of your body.Ive been painting cars for 35 years.I've always said if you want it nice paint it twice. Paint sanded smooth makes a better paint base then primer unless you use sealer which is ok but painting over the same colour as a value shade gives you a better result because sealer will shrink and once paints dry and cured its stable.
I have a friend who wraps cars and can scan anything on a scanner, clean it up on the cut and paste program ,enlarge it and print it on to a quailty decal to stick over your aluminum plate for your dash . There must be some guy doing wraps in your neighbour hood.Your rig looks good!
Hey buddy you could use your masking tape for an edge on your paint tin ? Paint runs occur through just to much paint 💯light coats then finish with lacquer coat. great video sir! Your views are honest and believable
@Salvage Workshop - I feel your pain. In the process of restoring '79 SA200 Blackface. Installed the Murphy gauges at the top of the front panel. Done a test fire and welder fired right up, then when I tried to power it off it would not shutdown....LOL. Had left one of the old wires attached and apparently the switch was hot all the time. Luckily, I just shut the fuel off at the bowl and it will eventually run out of gas, which only takes about 15 seconds. Doing some electrolysis of the gas tank right now but trying to figure out how to keep it from flash rusting after I am done cleaning it out.
You can coat the inside of your fuel tank with diesel fuel. With the tank moist with fuel, you can build a fire and place the tank in the fire with the cap off, right side up. The fuel will cook out and coat the surfaces with gum. Alternatively, you could have the tank dipped in zinc for a professional job.
Love the Blåkläder! Swedish top quality in workwear.
Blue Clothes. That's what we call work wear or mechanical overalls. "Dra på mig min blåkläder". Put on my work wear!
I really like copper plating as rust protection on iron when painting is not an option. It's really easy, but the metal has to be rust and oil free.
All you need is copper sulfate and a little bit of sulfuric acid. Make a copper sulfate solution and add 1-2% 10% sulfuric acid. (the ratio isn't that important, it's there to dissolve the thin iron oxide layer to make the copper stick)
Applied to iron, it will plate the surface instantly with a very thin layer of copper. To get the plating ticker, get some small stones (coarse sand) and tumble with the solution it for 2-5 minutes. The tumbling will make sure the copper is really holding onto the iron.
If tumbling isn't an option rubbing it on with cloth works also.
The positives are:
- it's cheap
- it's easy to use
- it's very resistant solvents
The negatives:
- it's really thin and you can scratch it easily.
- it's just like paint a protective layer, nothing more
- copper sulfate is a poison and will kill your lawn.
You are a very skilled and talented person, I really dig how you think outside of the box to solve a problem. I really did watching your videos and have learned a lot. Lol... You should have been my second father....lol. stay well
Fuel tank. You don't need to fill it with Evaporust. Take a gallon of EVR and fill the tank with clean rags, pour in the EVR, and soak the rags. Turn the tank every hour or so, hitting as many sides and angles as you can orient it in. After about 12 hours, check the inside for effect. If satisfied, pull the rags out, drain the EVR from them, and rebottle it for reuse. The tank didn't really have much fuel in it at that point. Wipe the inside of the tank with an oily rag to prevent flash rust if you aren't refilling it with fuel any time soon.
45:00 You’ll only need 1 Gal of EvapoRust and just rotate it on each of the sides for 2hours. That small amount of rust won’t take very long, EvapoRust works very quickly if the surfaces have been properly degreased (Hot water and driveway cleaner)
Alternatively you said didn’t want to go electrolysis BUT tanks are GREAT cuz you can make the entire tank part of the circuit and stick an isolated piece of rebar w/ curled sheet of thin steel attached that expands out inside the tank.
Cuz the process is primarily line of sight just aim the flat side of the sheet parallel to the rusty area. Keep a plastic lid on top of the mouth or place a wooden dowel across to suspend it from. Add the solution of washing soda and water, Hook up your vintage battery charger and away you go.
I’m very impressed by what you’ve done, you definitely took it further than I thought you would. You keep saying, I should put a new this or that, but I had this in stock. That’s the whole reason you keep all of those parts, use them because they’re fine and it looks beautiful. It’s not like a tractor that you take it all the way, for show. The most important thing is it’s operational and complete. Watching from Panama City Florida,USA. 🇺🇸🦅 You know who’s really gonna be impressed? The guy you got it from.
*@**1:29:38*
To correctly use a solenoid here, run a spring to the rack lever, to always shut off. (Deadman)
Run battery 12v through a keyed switch, to energize the "rack on" solenoid.
That oil pressure sending unit can be either for an electric pressure gauge, or an ignition cutoff
if this were a gasoline engine. For diesel it should go the fuel. No oil=no run. Same for over temp too, just to be safe. That small engine can get real hot, real quick. Keep up on thermostats & quality coolant.
This really turned out nice, Eric!
The Japanese are very clever and I think the black stuff in the tank is tar, and they put it in to do exactly what you said, protect the metal from corrosion
If you take the cover off the end of the armature you will see a bolt right in the center. If you remove that it might come apart but it usually takes a jacking bolt to break it loose. Once you get that center bolt out, look inside you’ll see some other threads (not used for holding it together) that is for jacking it apart with a
spacer rod. In the future this’ll work on a lot of gen sets.
Little tip for sanding, use a block for a better finish without finger furrows. Also when spraying try to maintain 6-8 inches distance between the panel and spray nozzle. May find less runs.
But awesome work as always man! Hats off to you for the level of care taken on this restoration.
Keep up the great work 👌💪😎
Phosforic acid will remove rust, and convert into a white powder, so you’re left with bare metal. You will need to rinse out the tank with water afterwards. Phosforic acid is the common element of a lot of rust removers. You will not need to fill it all up with acid. Just tumble it slowly. You can try it on a small, rusty part to see how it works. You buy the acid in concentrated form and dilute it with water.
Those welders kick ass. 24hrs a day 7 days a week. 14-30 day outages US Steel. 8 welders 4 compressors.
That welder/generator looks really nice now, I don’t think you went too far. You now have a really nice looking unit, that works perfectly.
Great job in bringing it back to life. Old is better than what's made today. I am looking forward to seeing it completed.
Really a nice job. Great dedication to bringing it back to use.👍👍
I came across 2 generators that are diesel, I don't know if they are 1 phase or 3. They were using these for electricity and decided to go with Generac. They put them in storage and were running when taken out. While watching you I think I can make a welder out of them. I have a neighbor that has a rewinding business and he is going to check them out when I pick them up. I can't lose cause they were given to me. I have learned a lot by watching you. Thanks for your page!!
I'm truly impressed with the transformation. I see these units occasionally at the scrapers, but always pass them by. Love the color too!
Very nice to see old dinged up , crusty equipment restored . I have watched you enough to know you would take it to the next level. Which I,m glad you did , looks nice , and cleaning up electrical, more functional . With extra gauges , even better. I think the old decal on front name plate , with cracking across it , adds nostalgia back to it , even though looking like new unit now. Thoughts on graphics , a silhouette of a man with OLD style helmet on and stinger and rod in position , with Bright ARC FLASH going up behind him , that image just above SALVAGE WORKSHOP .
Glad you took restoration this far. Often wondered why you didnt go further with other projects. Thanks
Ahh. The classic I’m just gonna do this and it leads to the next thing that leads to the next. You just earned a subscriber.
One gallon of EvapoRust should be plenty to do the tank. It doesn't have to be full, especially if you're not in a hurry and can roll it to put whatever part at the bottom that you want to de-rust. Then you pour it back into the bottle to re-use.
It looks great, awesome bringing back something that most would have scraped it out. Keep the restoration videos coming a pleaser to watch. Very informative and been learning a lot from your channel.
You have done such an excellent job on this machine so far. You attention to detail never ceases to amaze and impress me. On a side note, I am personally not a fan of spray paint in cans. In comparison to mixing up paint and using a sprayer, you get paint quality that is ten times more durable and looks better way longer. I also do not like the fact that spray cans of any kind are not recyclable.
Sir,I commend u not just for restoring this old welder but taking the time to explain the various functions of said equipment.U r the jack of all trades when it comes to vintage working construction heavy equiptment.Peace.....
It's really looking good and I really liked the method of cleaning the tank. Regarding your dropping stuff through the pallet, you could always screw on an old piece of plywood or some of that cardboard.
You’re on the right track repairing that machine. It will be a convenient tool in the field once it’s all good to go. I’m a big fan of blue, so I think you’ve done a great job colouring it up too.
snowball, story of my life. great vid, truly inspirational to go the distance.
You could try using polishing grits or ceramic pellets to clean the inside of the fuel tank. Both are used for polishing gemstones.
a good rust remover is jenolite it converts rust into a stable compound that can be left or painted over. put some in the tank and slosh it around a bit so all surfaces get coated. Jobs a good one!
Excellent rehab watched all of it; I agree the bright cap screws on the front panel set it off, The black screws were too great a contrast,
When you said throw back looking/old school decals the first thing I thought was the A-team van for some reason, I think the machine puts me in mind of something they'd find and get running to build whatever they needed wherever they were. Anyways great project, really enjoyed it so far and cant wait to see the final result.
Great job, it will last for years. You can weld this exhaust manifold with cast iron "on cold" using electrode with hammering - type. AWS A5.15 ENiFe-CI, i.e. LINCOLN SUPERFONTE NiFe or i.e. ESAB OK 92.58. Remove the old weld. Weld without preheating, one pass at a time with forging/hammering. Fi 2.5 mm should work, electrodes in vac pack ready to weld otherwise re-drying in oven i.e. 2h / 300 C deg. I have done this many times when repairing cast iron parts for old machunery. B.R. from POLAND.
You should save your index finger from pain and get one of those 'cheap' trigger handle. Evapo-Rust 32 OZ $13 Amazon
A blue color was my choice. Metallic Blue is even better!! Metallic paints have a problem of running.
At 1:19:25. maybe you should have painted that connector's cover RED, so you don't, by chance, reverse your leads. Unless they are polarized.
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Nice job, and I can appreciate all the work it took! 👍
The machine looks great! Blue is just fine as Miller makes the better machines, IMHO. Thanks for all your vids!!!
Always a pleasure to watch and learn about resurrecting old and abandoned machinery.
You have a great work ethic and spirit ..you explain things clearly.
Always look forward to the next videos sir .
Love all the dogs .
Don’t forget an earth/ground bonding Test/checks through the frame, generator and engine you may need to fit bonding braid strips after all that painting!!! star washers on bolts are good for continuity too. Just to keep you safe mate with those voltages !!!
You forgot your baking sheets, buddy. Always have baking sheets and some extra magnets when working on top of pallets. Especially when ya slide them between the layers. Godsend for not having to fish out bolts you fumble between the slats.
I had a paint cup that stirred your paint while you painted really helped with metal flake worked very nice with my binks model 7
Also that Lincoln Turned out nice I did a great job
Rinse the inside of the tank with a little diesel to remove loose particles. Keep the tank topped off full of diesel each time after using it. Call it good. The tank will outlive the rest of the machine. Don't make this too hard. Love the videos. keep up the good work.
great peace of iron that made America Great, and the price of a new one today and the low quality of them. Great kudo's
Oh hey... I just watched you spill the metallic blue - I don't know where I saw this trick, but if you take some tape and make a V across the hole in the can with the bottom of the V at the edge of the can, you can avoid all that - really cool trick. Give it a try if you think of it.
I give you credit for devotion to your passions. You outdid yourself on this welder. It should last many years and weld a bunch of metal - if it ain't too pretty to use. Great job!
Great Video.... Please discuss the procedures & a demo between the Polarities when DC welding
POR 15 makes a sealer/coater for fuel tanks. Used some on a fuel oil tank for pin holes about 20 years ago and it still has no leaks
We used some real dry sand to clean out some mower tanks. Took a wheel bearing from a mini van to spin and win. Variable speed fan motor to turn it. It worked.
Really awesome restore on this! Love the color scheme you got going on. As for your dashboard you don't need to source a new one all you need to do is have it scanned and either have someone laser etch a new one on a new sheet of metal or you can have a new vinyl decal made to cover your original one. The vinyl is cheaper and looks pretty decent.
People will complain just to complain. Who cares about the paint job as it is going to covered. The paint has two jobs, one to protect the metal and one for eye candy.
I’m sure we all appreciate you reviving old equipment that most would turn their nose at. The first blue looked great on shell.
Pressure washer the inside of your tank to get any remnants of the gunk off the bottom. Flush that out and dry then put rust converter in it to treat any rusty areas. Do not use muratic acid or vinegar. It will take the tin plating off the inside which will make it rust much quicker in the future. Have done several rusty tanks this way. Much happier with results than with acid.
Really hoping that another video is made showing the finished item.. He's got through the really difficult stuff and risk of failure. Would be great to see it painted and on a trailer..