Wow!! I have been pulling my hair out checking forums, watching videos and everything. This little arrow was exactly my problem. Until I oriented that little arrow on the check valve body to point up, it would not draw fuel! You’re a genius! Thanks Brandon!
Thanks Brandon! I've been watching your videos for a while and just happened to randomly pick this one. A while back I bought a nicely restored 1961 Evinrude 5.5 for a great price as it would start, but won't stay running for long. I just checked and it has the recommended replacement 0388685 fuel pump... with the little arrow pointing down!
This video will help out so many folks that like I did took delivery of a used motor that someone had already refitted the fuel pump with the incorrect orientation, and it wouldn't run very well. I never would have guessed that the cure would be so straightforward. Thank you very much my Johnson 6Hp runs perfectly now.
This channel is a Gem! This is like the good old Leeroy's Ramblings but in video. Did not know that arrow up thing. I think i have never got a rebuild kit with instructions. I've always got lucky and managed to not have any problems. Maybe i have accidentaly always rebuild as disassembled.
I have a 1966 Johnson 6hp and the diaphragm on the fuel pump is really crispy. It is the longer diamond shaped style (see part 30489). I can't find rebuilds for it and was curious if a square style like I see on all these would work. The 3 holes (2 bolts on each side of the air pulse port) appear to be similar. You ever seen this work?
Hello, thank you for the educational video. My question is my replacement fuel pump came with a fuel filter and hoses. My 73’ 18hp Evinrude doesn’t have one. Would add this from the inflow hose before the pump?
I did`nt have any trouble putting the OEM rebuild kit in 2 years ago but at the end of this season I ran into a quality issue , the pump was pouring fuel from the inlet gasket witch It was a nice soft cork one when new .I fiddled with it wanting to go fishing and ended up tightening the screw to tight even though I thought i was gentle but it cracked the inlet housing , Oh well ordered new OEM parts but the cork gasket is a rather hard feeling thing bringing me the new fear of cracking the housing again. I`m in no hurry right now so i`m going to wait until spring when I feel braver about tightening that screw again.
If the new cork seal is 100% cork, it can be rejuvenated by soaking in warm water for few hours. (ye old trick when the corck seals were common) It's nothing unusual that they harden over time. It's wood after all, or bark of a wood to be more exact and it dries and hardens over time.
Thanks for this...Very helpful! I've been trying to troubleshoot a 1988 Johnson 15hp. I just got it and it wouldn't start, but fired and ran with some gas/oil mix in the cylinders. I rebuilt the carb (really gunked up) and took apart the fuel pump, cleaned and reassembled per these instructions. It fires right up now, but revs high immediately and stays pretty high on the revs for a bit before settling down to an idle and suddenly stopping. I kept attempting to adjust the idle screw, which does affect the speed after 15 seconds or so, but no matter where I adjust the idle screw to, it eventually idles down and quits. After many cycles of this (warmed up well) it will start and rev way too high (runaway) and I have to pull the choke out 3/4 of the way to get it to idle. It will, in fact, idle with the choke 3/4 or more out, but no matter how long I let it idle like this, the second I push the choke back in, it revs super high and won't settle down. Not sure if air is getting in somewhere after it's warmed up or what. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this? No leaks from the carb or the fuel pump after the rebuild.
While discussing fuel pumps. I have a 1993 20hp & a 2000 25hp. Both motors have provisions for a pulse hose & a pulse thru the back on the bypass cover. I find it odd OMC would machine both styles into the cover when every 20,25,30,35 I’ve worked on all use the pulse hose design fuel pump. Any thoughts on that?
I noticed your parts bags always look like OEM parts. Are they and if so, where do I purchase OEM? If not, where do I purchase the parts you do (I have an old 5 HP 2 Stroke Twin I am researching before I rebuild)?
I get the part numbers from epc.brp.com Then add what's needed to the cart of marineengine.com, but first reference ebay for the kit prices. However, the kits aren't always easy to get a number for. That's where everythingoutboards.com comes in.
I have a 1958 sportwin 10 that I can only get to run at high rpm for about 45 seconds I rebuilt the carb and ignition system do you have any suggestions on what I should try next
I have a johnson 9.9 question that maybe you can answer. First let me says thank you! You have helped me with two motors. I have a 1980 9.9 electric start. The cylinderhead has the thermostat at the bottom. I found a 87 head with the thermostat at the top. Do you think that it will work on the 1980 motor?
Yeah that's an interesting question. I believe the head gaskets are the same, so it'll probably bolt on, but I'm not sure if water passages are the same.
@@BrandonsGarage I thought the same. I have tried to find videos on the water flow. When the thermostat opens on the 1980 the water goes through a hole in the bottom end by the thermostat. On the 87 due to the thermostat being at the top, where the hole at the bottom was there is a longer cutout that is open. I assume that it drains into the same place. As long as it all seals up the same that is.
I have tried just spinning the plastic cover in front to AIM in the right direction for my gas line. When you take that CENTER screw out and look at it, it looks like it can be turned any way you want to aim it. It will NOT work in any direction though, experience has shown me.
Wow!! I have been pulling my hair out checking forums, watching videos and everything. This little arrow was exactly my problem. Until I oriented that little arrow on the check valve body to point up, it would not draw fuel! You’re a genius! Thanks Brandon!
Thank you again your evinrude Johnson classes are a master class, with a running 1979 9.9/15hp I can’t get enough of your channel !!!!!!
Something so simple and obvious once you are aware of it but most definitely a hidden feature. Thanks for posting.
Thanks Brandon! I've been watching your videos for a while and just happened to randomly pick this one. A while back I bought a nicely restored 1961 Evinrude 5.5 for a great price as it would start, but won't stay running for long. I just checked and it has the recommended replacement 0388685 fuel pump... with the little arrow pointing down!
This video will help out so many folks that like I did took delivery of a used motor that someone had already refitted the fuel pump with the incorrect orientation, and it wouldn't run very well.
I never would have guessed that the cure would be so straightforward. Thank you very much my Johnson 6Hp runs perfectly now.
This channel is a Gem! This is like the good old Leeroy's Ramblings but in video.
Did not know that arrow up thing. I think i have never got a rebuild kit with instructions.
I've always got lucky and managed to not have any problems. Maybe i have accidentaly always rebuild as disassembled.
Love your content and humor. Anticipating some longer shop videos.
I have a 1966 Johnson 6hp and the diaphragm on the fuel pump is really crispy. It is the longer diamond shaped style (see part 30489). I can't find rebuilds for it and was curious if a square style like I see on all these would work. The 3 holes (2 bolts on each side of the air pulse port) appear to be similar. You ever seen this work?
Yeah, just get a new one.
I wouldn't buy the $25 Chinese imports.
Buy a used one, then buy a rebuild kit for it.
You solved my problem with poor running! Thank you!!!
Steady flow of useful information from this channel. I’ve never noticed the arrow. Now im gonna go check my 2 15hp OMC motors
Well? We're they correct?
@@BrandonsGarage 1 was correct & the other upside down. They are both up now😁
Hello, thank you for the educational video. My question is my replacement fuel pump came with a fuel filter and hoses. My 73’ 18hp Evinrude doesn’t have one. Would add this from the inflow hose before the pump?
Mines facing up and right at an angle. I guess what im askin is that still considered up?
I did`nt have any trouble putting the OEM rebuild kit in 2 years ago but at the end of this season I ran into a quality issue , the pump was pouring fuel from the inlet gasket witch It was a nice soft cork one when new .I fiddled with it wanting to go fishing and ended up tightening the screw to tight even though I thought i was gentle but it cracked the inlet housing , Oh well ordered new OEM parts but the cork gasket is a rather hard feeling thing bringing me the new fear of cracking the housing again. I`m in no hurry right now so i`m going to wait until spring when I feel braver about tightening that screw again.
If the new cork seal is 100% cork, it can be rejuvenated by soaking in warm water for few hours. (ye old trick when the corck seals were common)
It's nothing unusual that they harden over time. It's wood after all, or bark of a wood to be more exact and it dries and hardens over time.
Are OEM pump rebuild kits still available? Where do you buy parts for old 9.9/15?
I love the content and the quality of these videos!
Have you done any videos on a Johnson vapor pump?
You are the best, and thanks ... I've learned so much from watching your videos!!!!
Thanks for this...Very helpful! I've been trying to troubleshoot a 1988 Johnson 15hp. I just got it and it wouldn't start, but fired and ran with some gas/oil mix in the cylinders. I rebuilt the carb (really gunked up) and took apart the fuel pump, cleaned and reassembled per these instructions. It fires right up now, but revs high immediately and stays pretty high on the revs for a bit before settling down to an idle and suddenly stopping. I kept attempting to adjust the idle screw, which does affect the speed after 15 seconds or so, but no matter where I adjust the idle screw to, it eventually idles down and quits. After many cycles of this (warmed up well) it will start and rev way too high (runaway) and I have to pull the choke out 3/4 of the way to get it to idle. It will, in fact, idle with the choke 3/4 or more out, but no matter how long I let it idle like this, the second I push the choke back in, it revs super high and won't settle down. Not sure if air is getting in somewhere after it's warmed up or what. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this? No leaks from the carb or the fuel pump after the rebuild.
Idle jet is most likely clogged
THIS FIXED MY ISSUE!!!!!! Thank you sir!
Brandon what is different between the small square fuel pumps and the bigger triangle fuel pumps, Johnson/evinrude ?
While discussing fuel pumps.
I have a 1993 20hp & a 2000 25hp. Both motors have provisions for a pulse hose & a pulse thru the back on the bypass cover. I find it odd OMC would machine both styles into the cover when every 20,25,30,35 I’ve worked on all use the pulse hose design fuel pump. Any thoughts on that?
This is a long shot, but I am having an issue with full power at wide open throttle after fuel pump replacement. 92 evinrude 60hp. Im at a loss.
I noticed your parts bags always look like OEM parts. Are they and if so, where do I purchase OEM? If not, where do I purchase the parts you do (I have an old 5 HP 2 Stroke Twin I am researching before I rebuild)?
I get the part numbers from epc.brp.com
Then add what's needed to the cart of marineengine.com, but first reference ebay for the kit prices.
However, the kits aren't always easy to get a number for.
That's where everythingoutboards.com comes in.
Thank you can't wait to try this.
I have a 1958 sportwin 10 that I can only get to run at high rpm for about 45 seconds I rebuilt the carb and ignition system do you have any suggestions on what I should try next
Idle jet and this fuel pump video
After a compression test
Great to know, never noticed. Thank you.
I have a johnson 9.9 question that maybe you can answer. First let me says thank you! You have helped me with two motors. I have a 1980 9.9 electric start. The cylinderhead has the thermostat at the bottom. I found a 87 head with the thermostat at the top. Do you think that it will work on the 1980 motor?
Yeah that's an interesting question.
I believe the head gaskets are the same, so it'll probably bolt on, but I'm not sure if water passages are the same.
@@BrandonsGarage I thought the same. I have tried to find videos on the water flow. When the thermostat opens on the 1980 the water goes through a hole in the bottom end by the thermostat. On the 87 due to the thermostat being at the top, where the hole at the bottom was there is a longer cutout that is open. I assume that it drains into the same place. As long as it all seals up the same that is.
I have tried just spinning the plastic cover in front to AIM in the right direction for my gas line. When you take that CENTER screw out and look at it, it looks like it can be turned any way you want to aim it. It will NOT work in any direction though, experience has shown me.
$15 on Ebay or Amazon I got 2 for $21
Great to know 👍
good info to have. I didnt know this.
No clue about the arrow at all
sorry was clear as mud...