Lifeboat 230V and alternator fixes. Installing 24V charger. Expedition Lifeboat Conversion Ep91 [4K]
Вставка
- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
- To BUY ALAN A DRINK for the journey north, to buy merch, and to support my videos and help them grow in scope and quality here: www.alexhibber...
Alex's new channel, Arguably: / @arguably-alexhibbert5085
Check out Nick's facebook at / peakandtideengineering
EPISODE 91
I'm using my marina time to sort out AC and DC power problems and upgrades.
Products mentioned:
Victron 12 / 24 / 10A Orion Isolated Charger
Varta AUX Silver 9Ah 12V battery
Model: NME A/S (Husnes, Norway) 7.5m TELB
Engine: Bukh DV48 turbo diesel
Feel free to ask any questions in the comments!
___
Alex's new channel, Arguably: / @arguably-alexhibbert5085
Find out more about Alex's work at:
/ alexhibbert
/ alexhibbert
www.alexhibber...
His books can be bought here:
UK amzn.to/3ncQkRw
US amzn.to/2LkRs86
Canada amzn.to/2JJuwPJ
Signed www.alexhibber...
Thanks to vanguardstorag... for warehousing facilities.
![Engine bay overheating solution - custom air ducting. Expedition Lifeboat Conversion Ep92 [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3_Mym2aLLcw/mqdefault.jpg)
![Engine bay overheating solution - custom air ducting. Expedition Lifeboat Conversion Ep92 [4K]](/img/tr.png)
![200W extra solar PV power for expedition boat 24V house power supply. Lifeboat conversion Ep126 [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NteoAkuXsdA/mqdefault.jpg)
![Man hangs from a new DIY expedition boat stern platform. Lifeboat conversion Ep124 [4K]](/img/n.gif)
For those wanting a more detailed explanation about the alternator wiring: I'd copied the original installation wire for wire when I took out the old dead alternator. This was wired by Bukh, and they had continuity between the alternator case and the negative terminal. I wrongly assumed my new alternator was set up the same way, but in fact the terminal was isolated. This means I couldn't rely on the alternator shell to connect it to the engine block, and indirectly to the battery negative. The unused black wire on the original needs to be used in this new installation. And now it is!
Alan definitely brings shine to a day of gloom bright and orange
Ever since I started watching your videos, I've been trying to figure out your accent. Now, I've figured it out,... Maryland Eastern Shore. Yeah, those Maryland Crab stickers gave it away.
I love the Maryland crab sticker. Not sure how it made it across the pond but it’s great to see you carrying a piece of MD with you on your travels.
SPACESHIP !!!! (this is a quote from the Lego Movie and captures my enthusiasm well)
Thank you so much for sharing your journey and the travel itself. I appreciate your honestly and openness to admitting what goes wrong and what you don't know. I am going through a lot right now with my knees wearing out. This started with a rare hip disease. I've been taking courage from watching you overcoming your own barriers with Alan. I wanted to say a very heart felt and sincere "thank you".
Nice catch. Better to find out now instead of middle of the ocean.
Nice catch on the alternator - and the Victron gear is very smart and as an added bonus will give off a nice bit of heat into the cabin.😉 Top tip with respect to the anchor when berthing, particularly when constrained by other vessels - as you approach the berth, drop the anchor about 0.5m below the surface of the oggin.😀⛵️
Heat from electronics is inefficiency. That heat you're getting is coming at the cost of battery capacity. It's probably very much not worth it.
@@BenjaminKlahn but the waste heat from the Victron units is a given - so what do you suggest?
Glad you changed the power in to Alan live prongs and water dont really mix well. ⚡⚡
Im in Saltburn so will be keeping an eye on Marine Traffic for Alan as he chugs past at some point. Depending on stuff, I might even try to get a couple of photos. 👍👍
I'll try and give warning.
Alan is getting so cool with time! Can't wait to see you both travelling!
Cheers
that's the thing with victron. it costs about double, but it just works and you don't have the hassle. be nice if the competition would step up a bit.
I do wish there was more competition in the ready to plug and play boat electrics, and especially their range. I'm far from a fanboy. Their instructions and post-sale support are pitiful.
Make sure the bulk absorption and float settings are set to the same voltages on both the mppt and Orion chargers. In my camper Ive set the charging voltages of the mppt higher(very very slightly) than the one from the Orion. This way makes it so whenever there is enough sun the battery’s charge with sun and the Orion takes a step back. But when the sun fades and the battery’s still need charging the Orion takes over. To spare all the moving parts the wear and maybe some fuel. I’m still experimenting with changing these settings after 3 years of living in the van. But it’s definitely worth experimenting with your own setup.
Good tips, thanks
5:12 Super capacitors are finding their way into starting circuits more and more these days. I've been using the same bank of 20$ supercapacitors to start my car for over 5 years now. They never degrade and have never failed to start on the first try (and the small 12Ah battery is fabulous backup source and help to keep the supercaps charged (can be switched of course). The main advantage for you is that they are completely unaffected by low temperatures.
".....no plans to fully submerge it at present....."
In for the maiden voyage to Titanic aboard Alan
Great as always and details.
Great ep. full of problem solving and points of interest.
I'm thinking when the camera isn't rolling your negotiations with Alan involve some pretty salty language.
Nonsense! I'm the epitome of understanding when Alan tries to enrage me....
I found your channel and have been binge watching, and am almost caught up. US based viewer who follows all kinds of sailing / DIY / adventure travel on the you-tubes. Adding you to my list of vessels I track on MarineTraffic. Happy motoring.
Cheers!
I like the Homer Simpson logic
Hello‼️ I would first like to say I thoroughly enjoy your vlogs. I must be careful with my spelling and punctuation with someone such as yourself😅. I come to you all the way from baltimore maryland. I noticed the maryland flag within a crab. I'm hoping someone sent you that from baltimore maryland? It would be nice to know that a small part of Baltimore city Maryland was with you on your voyage. I hope you knowing that I will be watching you throughout this whole voyage comforts you? In true, Alex Hibbert Humor 😂. I hope your voyage is a successful one. Anyway, Bye. 🎶
Yes, a kind supporter of the channel is a Marylander (correct term?)
Does the new blue box software integrate into the solar panels … would assume so? You may want to have an alternate power supply for the radio(s) and Anderson Power Pole connectors are a great way to quickly swap power sources.
They speak to the same app, but I don't think they coordinate their behaviour, as they don't know they are connection to the same battery/ies.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals
Start up the Bluetooth network in the app then they start communicate 😁👍
Use A&N “army navy” fittings and fuel hose. Any online hot rod purveyor carries this NHRA & NSRA approved fuel delivery system. If your still wanting stainless lines tape the area you’re wanting to cut through, using a small Dremel fiber cutoff wheel at higher speed. Hope this helps.
Much as I'd love to entirely rip out and replace large portions of the boat's hardware each week, sometimes we need to make what we have work!
@@AlexHibbertOriginalslern how alternators work! They need to be conected directly to battery to charge it. If not alterbator is not working
Alternators are very reliable, what has indifferent reliability is the rectifier regulator unit. On small alternators, this unit is usually housed inside the chassis. HOWEVER, if you buy a high output alternator, the R R unit is usually screwed on outside and easily replaced without removing the alternator......Have fun.
That's all well and good - _BUT_ ~ of more concern is the fast approaching deep dive beneath the ice; is ip68 sufficient for exploration of the Titanic.?
Time will no doubt, tell!
Your alternator has a W terminal on it. So you can easily add a revcounter gauge to supplement your triple gauge if you are so inclined. I would recommend an old stock analog one or digital with LCD dial (The digital with analog pointer ones are junk).
My understanding is that your Orion and MPPT will both start throttling back as you move towards absorption and then stop completely once house battery float has been achieved. May be worth adding a smart shunt (if you don’t have already) just after the battery terminal (before any loads) for maximum accuracy. You might also consider a DC-DC charger going the other way to keep your starter battery topped up from your house bank when you’re at anchor, marina, etc with surplus solar generation to spare, unless your starter is AGM in which case you’re probably fine.
What’s the plan for chart plotter, etc, please tell me you’re not going to the arctic with Navionics alone? 😬
Putting a dc to dc the other way around will interfere with the automatic start stop detection of the Orion as I understand it.
More blue magic boxes. Always remember to do the proper rites and rituals as described in their manuals, or the magic smoke can and will escape from said box.
Another day of being sure not to let out the magic smoke that makes all electronics work. Good Job Sir. Have you hung the radar reflector yet?
It's on the mast
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Thankee Sir. That makes me feel better.
Magnum Motorhomes in Grimsby is the place go for A-Z of parts to fix my van. It's about 2 miles on foot from the Fish Docks.
Helpful, cheers
Make sure you make yourself an anderson connector with battery clamps in the other end, for the batteries. If you don't already have a good old standard battery-to-battery-startup-cable-set. otherwize, you will be completely dependent on anderson connectors everywhere.
I have jump leads at the ready, and an Anderson-clamp combo is a good idea.
Just a small tip on voltage. When an alternator is running, the voltage on a 12V system should be 14.42V at 20-25 degrees C. Higher when colder. So charging voltage of only 13-something volts is not OK.
1:36 Could you use normal fuel hose and run it through something such as PVC or steel conduit?
AMAZINGNES!!!
I understood almost none of that. But still a very enjoyable video. Odd. Thank you.
I didn't before I started working it all out!
Your stainless braided fuel lines are much easier to deal with using AN fittings and the shear cutting tool designed to use with that type of hose, I use them for my oil coolers, hydraulic steering hoses and high pressure fuel, however it would be a different story had I not the good stock of assorted angle fittings and the specific tool for cutting the line, it makes it much easier to deal with. You may look into that in the future in fuel plumbing, AN-6 would be sufficient for your fuel supply and you could use the same for return to keep for having to have multiple sizes of spare fittings, or have an AN-4 return line.
Certainly - all true!
What is the Blue Crab from MD sticker's story?
A kind anonymous sponsor asked for me to display them.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals they have good taste. If you ever get a chance to come across the pond and you're in the Chesapeake Bay area I highly recommend a bushel
Thank you for the interesting video. I have one suggestion. Could you change to a different
computer generated voice? The one you are using has a very monotone sound.
It would save me a lot of time!
Hmm, ya sure ya don't want a momentary switch for the digital dials on the battery box? So ya can't forget it on the on-position, it would only work as long as ya hold the button.
It's not going to steal much power when underway. If the boat is left 'off' for a few days, there's already a procession of things to switch off that this can be added to.
@AlexHibbertOriginals a printed and laminated check list for cold and warm startup, as well as for wind-down routines might help prevent errors at times when you might be low on blood sugar, or when someone else needs to do these on your behalf.
Thanks ever so much for sharing all of this with us!
Everytime you go to sea judge if you need extra ballast, she was designed for 68 people 4 - 6 tons and probably 2 tons of water and 1 -2 tons of fuel and I doubt if you have any of that, it is not a speedboat, weight and displacement are your friend.
How would i find Alan on vesselfinder. I didn't have much luck.
The AIS is off when I'm not onboard, and the online services only keep them listed for a while after a ping.
Why did you fit the shore power box assembly that way around ? Surely it would be better with the box inside ?
The hole created, plus mounting holes no longer matched that configuration after the change in plan. I could have glassed the whole thing over and recut, but I was against the clock. Maybe another time.
A quick question for the group, which is the best app to track Alan on his journey? Any advice appreciated. Cheers!
MarineTraffic and VesselFinder should both track ok.
@AlexHibbertOriginals Top man! Safe sailing and thank you!
I am kinda glad to see you don't have a pile of lithium batteries on Alan .
.I love lithium batteries in battery sheds with distance from flammables . The reason is fire they can and do spontaneously ignite and you can't put a lithium battery out until all the fuel Is consumed . That scares hell out of me on a boat . A floating Tesla fire
I use lithium a lot in the the Arctic, but LiFePO4, but less Li-ion or polymer chemistries. The safety profiles vary a lot.
Should have had the braided hose properly swaged or crimped if you prefer. Would have been more than worth it.
If you ram into anything going forward do you think your anchor will bend or push into the hull?
I'm going to bet neither. Given the limited speed and force, it would probably just come to a halt. At worst, the retaining pin might fail and the anchor would lift off the bowsprit.
A proper shore power fitting is the thing…. Check Kuranda Marine.
I was royally messed around by Kuranda, so I don't buy from them.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Sorry to hear that. They did a magnificent job fitting a 3K Victron to my boat, 15 years of faultless working, still on the 4 original batteries. They aren't the only suppliers of shore power socket fittings though I guess..
Stainless braided hoses are specifically made to use AN fittings. NOT hose clamps. That's your issue!
Yeeeeees. This is my realisation, and I'm going to direct my displeasure to the chandlery salesman in 2019.
@AlexHibbertOriginals my comment 2 months ago was long and rambling! But I love everything you did in this video and think that they are all good decisions - but I would also add a 24v 100a alternator to Alan's diesel engine, and make sure you have a plug-in battery charger for marinas or your diesel generator.
Alan's diesel engine probably has a fair amount of horsepower to spare. Therfore, adding the second alternator would not slow you down any, and wouldn't increase your fuel consumption (it's just a question of how long it takes to charge the batteries).
But right now, if you ran your battery banks dead, it'd take you something like 7 hours to recharge each pair of batteries, and that's if you had 100% of the alternator's output. If you want to run some electrical loads too? Good luck.
Even the 100a 24v alternator would take 2+ hours to recharge each pair of batteries - under ideal circumstances.
Hi Paul - I may consider another alternator, but space is a real limiter down there, and the current alternator does supply a lot of power over the long engine runs we're doing. The batteries are almost always full.
The generator has a battery charger (a Victron) that can chuck out 50A, so that will sort the batteries in quick time, and with less fuel than running the engine. I will save up for a charger for both generator outlets.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I don't have a good mental image of how much space is available under the cowling, but please keep the second alternator in the back of your mind.
I find it helpful to think of everything in watts, as it makes it easier when dealing with multiple voltages. Your current alternator provided 840 watts at maximum output.
A 50 amp charger (assuming 24 volt) is 1200 watts and a very nice second option.
My only point was - keep a mental list of items that draw power. A light here, a pump there, a computer here, a screen there, a fan there, suddenly tiny 5 and 10 watt loads start adding up.
I would suggest a clamp multimeter with AC and DC current measuring. You can put the clamp around the cable coming from your alternator and see just how much load you're putting on it. Or any other part of your system. Makes it very easy to figure out where your electricity is going.
I agree with a top rate brand like Victron for your main charger, but in the USA, Amazon has some CHEAP no-name ones. I'm talking about 100 amps at 12v for $100. Wouldn't want it as my only charger, but a nice backup / auxiliary.
I am probably being paranoid, but I'd rather send you $500 for a second alternator, than have you be stranded.
P. S. - I still think you should consider valves for a radiator in the cabin (shut off the cooling loop under Alan and have a radiator in the cabin instead). I know this must seem laughable after your summer voyages where keeping cool was an issue. However I'm afraid that will change when in actual arctic conditions, and heating will become important. You'll be huddled around the diesel heater saying "I can believe we're heating water under the boat..."
You have a calorifier? Very good things…
I'm trying to avoid too many wet circuits.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals
It's not like you're running central heating, showers and washing machine I guess. Keep it simple is sound.
Just beware: silicone coated wiring is great in high temperature environments, but it does poorly exposed to intense sunlight or moisture. So keep them dry.
Obviously you've committed to 24V house batteries now, but I assumed you were using 24V as that's what the engine electrics used. I would have kept everything 12V if that's what your engine used. Anyway. Too late for that now.
70 amps at 12 volts is NOT a lot of power. 840 watts to be exact - and that's running the alternator at full load. Plenty for duties as a lifeboat, but not much for a ship. Also, 746 watts is 1 horsepower, so your alternator will place just over 1 horsepower of load on your engine at maximum load. Not much.
In my van, which is entirely 12 volt, I've got a 180 amp alternator for the starting battery, and a 280 amp alternator for the house battery. PLUS a stand-alone 3000w generator.
I'm not too worried now that you've got a separate diesel generator of your own - but I would strongly consider a separate 24V alternator at some point. 100 amps at 24V would be a nice size - recharging your battery bank in 4 hours, while only putting around 3 horsepower of load on your engine.
Anyway, I think the changes you marry were otherwise quite good - I am a big fan of the dedicated starting battery and the 12/24 battery charger.
The amount of wiring makes the lower current at 24V good for avoiding voltage drop on longer runs, but I agree consistency would be good. That said, a 24V starter motor would then not be cranked on a single battery in an emergency. So it's a toss up.
Most boats run at 24V due to the cable runs involved. Some larger vessels operate on 48V.
@@TimSetter-z9uright. But that typically includes the starter, alternator, and everything else with the engine. That's what I assumed was the case here. I was surprised that the engine was 12v. My point is that personally I value consistent voltages. With my system, I have to use 4/0 gauge (0000 gauge) cable between the alternator and batteries, and even then it still gets warm to the touch. 24v would help considerably. But I like having all the voltage consistent. Just different takes on a situation.
You could upgrade the dodgy braided fuel hose by just buying good quality fuel hose and wrapping it in industrial type spiral binding. Garden variety automotive spiral binding is a bit second rate here - it's the industrial type you want that hose doctors etc sell. It isn't particularly cheap but it has awesome abrasion & chemical resistance and will toughen any rubber hose.
In hot areas of the engine bay you can buy reflective cloth tubing of various diameters too, so you could actually make some decent fuel hoses.
I, like you, don't like crappy hose - I'd jolly well piss it off 'ole chap lest you find yourself without power and dashed upon the rocks.
So a 12v alternator should ordinarily charge at 13.8 - 14.2v. The resting voltage of a healthy lead-acid (or equivalent) 12v battery should be 12.6v
Also 100a isn't enough for the cranking battery @12v. Typically 300a cable is about what you want. That battery can probably output 250cca by the looks of things. For reference, the key advantage of 24v over 12v is half the current for cranking but you're only 12v on the engine. Best to rethink this wiring. Remember the higher the voltage the lower the amps. Diesel engines need all the amps they can get when starting at 12v.
The first half of this is interesting and I'll investigate. The second half is slightly odd - the new battery is punchier, albeit smaller, than the factory batteries, and it cranks the engine with ease. The starter motor is only a 1kw. If the system works, I see little reason to rip everything out and start again just because 24v allows for lower amps.
@AlexHibbertOriginals Re the voltage, it's not odd it's maths.
Just because it works now in its inadequate state, doesn't mean it's going to after a fuel leak, repair and subsequent air in the system that needs bleeding.
Expect hot wires that let the smoke out and a flat battery in that case. 300a cable is needed and even another battery in parallel to improve reliability and performance.
250cca is an inadequately sized battery - a small battery. Most batteries sort of start in the range of 500cca and go up from there these days. You could save that battery by getting another identical one however more potentionally problematic connections are required.
Voltage drop occurs when you need it most, not when you're testing it in the commissioning phase.
why not use clear braded hose reliable strong and cheap
Hi Alex. Great videos. Can I ask for your AIS number? Best of luck. Per
www.vesselfinder.com/vessels/details/232049053
DEAR Alex eventually you 'll have coat your electronics panel with a anti salt water spray or laquer no electronics survive salt water! But there are many quick sprays on line that leave a coating on the wires srews etc. etc. This is not a option! especially for Allen and his future environments i did find perfect trusters sadly
They cost more then the boat still looking Tony
Yes I do need to fit the polycarb cover soon.
I knew you had it on the list of to dos cheers thank you im going to send you a box of odds and ends I sell military survival gear
I have hit my storage soon cheers!
You can never own too many little blue boxes.
Seeing Alan on ShipTracking ⛴️
Expensive blue boxes = views YT facts
"pleasure craft," as Alan is categorized according to AIS, seems insufficient to his dignity!
Has anyone found ALAN on vesslefinder oder marinetraffic? I can't find it. 😣
It doesn't last for that long once the AIS is switched off. It was on Vesselfinder when I was onboard. But, not MarineTraffic oddly...
@AlexHibbertOriginals Finally found you. Now none of your steps will occur unnoticed. 😉
Unless I switch off!
@@miles_world can i ask what details you looked for to find him? cheers