Just like any blades in steel, slow speed will be the key to longevity I would be curious to see similar tests at lower speeds and compare cut times and longevity.
pwoods97pw what size holes do you drill? If mostly small ones (like 1/4”), m12 fuel sds+ is the smallest you can get. It’s tiny, like the size of your hand with your fingers spread but it has impressive power. Drills up to 5/8”. Jeff, TBBCrew
Jeff Williams that’s what i was mainly looking at. i mostly use M12 tools day to day and the most common application would be 1/4” Tapcons or 3/8” drop in anchors, i just couldn’t figure if i should pay the extra $50 for the ridgid SDS for a little more power
It depends entirely on what your needs are. I would say Hilti if you will be using it often and price is not a concern, Makita and Milwaukee offer a middle road, finally; if price is a concern and you won't be using it often Ryobi will do just fine.
Interesting test. 3 cuts doesn’t seem like much. Maybe solid pipe wears out the blade faster than hollow pipe? When I had to use bimetal torch blades awhile back they seemed to last for a few dozen cuts on various sizes of hollow cast pipe but we did lower the blade speed to roughly a 10 minute per cut rate which caused no sparks or melting of the blade. Maybe we were overly careful.
Downward pressure was applied and this is super hard material. 10-minute cut rate is WAY too long. We could have cut way more if we were looking for that. You can look at these blades in 2-ways: Speed vs. Durability. Most contractors want both, most tool companies seem to only be able to deliver one. TBD on that
depending what your cutting dont count out the bimetal blades.. i used to think carbide was above and beyond and it is for hardened steel like grade 8 bolts, screws lag bolts ect but i had to rip 1/4" plate with a recip before 4x4' cuts so about 16' of cutting and the carbide blade i think it was a diablo chipped teeth and was just way more hectic made a big kerf and was bagging down the recip saw tried a Milwaukee torch bimetal i had and it soared through the remaining 14' i cooled it with water a couple times was still sharp made a smaller kerf cut quicker quieter easier that blade only died when i bound it up an bent it so it was cutting curves instead of lines on the other hand though if i need to cut exhaust bolts, shock bolts ect on on my truck i go for the carbide itll cut any steel without getting too hot i dare say a milwuakee torch would be faster in that solid bar cutting test yous did and last an impressive amount of cuts if kept cool no blade will handle 3 back to back cuts in 2" round bar without cooling
I totally agree that cooing / lubrication are major factors in blade degradation wear but not a [always] realty on a job-site. We try to speak to the majority audience with the tests [Pro Contractors]
@@ConcordCarpenter for sure its rare and usually unnecessary to use any cooling on a recip in the real world if necessary its usually a splash of my drinking water
In Swiss there is only one rsb factory, Bosch factory. All diablo recip saw blades and also circular saw blades are made by Bosch. Bosch has the largest carbide rsb Line on the market.
Plumber here. If I need to adjust the common cast sizes of 2" or 3" How many cuts would I get? I considered buying a super sawzall but maybe it'll just be cheaper to cut a new piece. Or just use my grinder
If you need to slice through some 2 inch use a Milwaukee 7-9 inch battery grinder with 12.0 batteries you can slice completely through from one side. The Diablo amped are pretty wicked. At work I made 4 cuts on 6 inch schedule 80 and one 4 inch schedule 80 on one Diablo sawzall blade with battery sawzall. They were in a tight place.
I wonder if starting with a weight on the blade could actually chip some teeth from the get-go. Might be a good thing to try it with & without for a second or two pass and then remove and examine the teeth. While it appears as a way of keeping the test fair, if one of the blade-types teeth chip right off the start, the fairness of the test goes right out the window. Could even be used as a separate test on the brazing strength of the carbide teeth to the metal blade.
These blades can be amazing when you really need them (tight spaces), but for the price, it should be your last option when you see how fast they wear out.
Any blade is doing well to cut through metal of those grades and thicknesses. They are expensive though you would really have to need to cut that metal and have no other option to go through a $20 blade, it's good to have the option though. 👍🙂
I have been looking for a good blade to cut 4" Cast iron pipe. Im looking for something that will cut faster or close to a diamond blade on my grinder. If I can get 2-3 cuts out of 1 blade I would be happy. I found 5 packs of 9" blades for $39. I'm going to buy 2 packs and see how they do. I wish someone came out with an inside cutter for tight spots. I have been doing sewer repairs for almost 30 years and have tried everything out there, I'm always looking for something new to make my job and my guy's job easier. Thanks for the great demo!
Great test guys.. like always 👍👍 I work in material testing ....lower hardness materials should be cut at higher speeds then harder materials will help the life of the blades....a tip if u use a wax stick to put on the blades before cutting softer material with highest speed will keep the blade from gumming up
The Diablo 9" AMPED blade is simply a great thick metal cutting blade. Look after your blade and it will look after you. Remember, HEAT is the biggest enemy of any cutting blade. 1/ Always use Cutting oil when cutting thick metal. Coat it on the blade and on the cutting surface. 2/ Choose the longest blade you can to do the job. It will stay cooler for longer. 3/ Use a variable speed reciprocating saw with these blades. When cutting metal use the slowest speed you can and let the blade do the work. Do those three things and you will extend the cutting life of your Diablo AMPED blades significantly. They are a little more expensive but much better value for money in the longer term if you treat them well.
Thorough review as always Rob! Thanks for the inside scoop. I was wondering are you A Concord Carpenter like Concord, MA? Sending love from Medford, MA!
I would rather go through 3 or even 4 cheap Milwaukee bi-metal blades at $2.50 ea than scrap 1 expensive blade $16 but that's me. And change-out time is negligible with the quik-change feature found on all the new Sawzalls.
I haven’t hear of 4:48 “Cast iron steel pipe” I have heard of cast iron pipe and I believe cast steel pipe but never cast iron steel pipe. And, at 5:40 you reference “solid cast pipe”, another term I haven’t heard before. Is this the same thing as a steel rod? I have never seen a cast iron or cast steel solid pipe. Educate me please... are these terms in common use in the USA and understood by everyone? BTW, I enjoy your presentations and appreciate the enthusiasm of the presenter. 👍
Eh I just use the cast iron cutting recip blades. No teeth just abrasive cut with diamond shit, don’t have to worry about carbide teeth breaking off. Diablo and Lenox both offer them, probably other companies too
Great job Rob and team.
The weight on the recip saws really helps normalize and make an apples to apples comparison.
Thumbs up, watching from the UK.
Any way you make a video on cuttonf leaf springs with these blades ?
Just like any blades in steel, slow speed will be the key to longevity
I would be curious to see similar tests at lower speeds and compare cut times and longevity.
Dean Werden we tested high speed at 6 and also at 4
I thought this was a fantastic blade comparison test. Though I still believe that none of these blades could cut through a steak my wife has cooked
lol
Cook it yourself instead of complaining, boom
Can she make hotcakes like Lisa from Green Acres?
Lmaooooo 😂
Do you guys have any plans to do a SDS plus head to head? i have a lot of batteries of several brands and ant decide which is best for me
pwoods97pw what size holes do you drill? If mostly small ones (like 1/4”), m12 fuel sds+ is the smallest you can get. It’s tiny, like the size of your hand with your fingers spread but it has impressive power. Drills up to 5/8”. Jeff, TBBCrew
Jeff Williams that’s what i was mainly looking at. i mostly use M12 tools day to day and the most common application would be 1/4” Tapcons or 3/8” drop in anchors, i just couldn’t figure if i should pay the extra $50 for the ridgid SDS for a little more power
maybe in spring
It depends entirely on what your needs are. I would say Hilti if you will be using it often and price is not a concern, Makita and Milwaukee offer a middle road, finally; if price is a concern and you won't be using it often Ryobi will do just fine.
@5:51 - Milwaukee averaging 1 min 79 secs ?? Wouldn't that be the same as 2 min 19 secs ?
Milwaukee 2" bar 1:79 seconds, *_or_* 2:19 seconds? 😁
2" solid rod
Pro1er there’s a graph
@@ConcordCarpenter Just havin' a bit of fun Rob. Great video as always.
Pro1er I was able to boil a 4 minute egg the other day in 1 minute and 180 seconds
@@JaketheRake16 Why did you cook it twice?
Interesting test. 3 cuts doesn’t seem like much. Maybe solid pipe wears out the blade faster than hollow pipe? When I had to use bimetal torch blades awhile back they seemed to last for a few dozen cuts on various sizes of hollow cast pipe but we did lower the blade speed to roughly a 10 minute per cut rate which caused no sparks or melting of the blade. Maybe we were overly careful.
Downward pressure was applied and this is super hard material. 10-minute cut rate is WAY too long. We could have cut way more if we were looking for that. You can look at these blades in 2-ways: Speed vs. Durability. Most contractors want both, most tool companies seem to only be able to deliver one. TBD on that
depending what your cutting dont count out the bimetal blades.. i used to think carbide was above and beyond and it is for hardened steel like grade 8 bolts, screws lag bolts ect but i had to rip 1/4" plate with a recip before 4x4' cuts so about 16' of cutting and the carbide blade i think it was a diablo chipped teeth and was just way more hectic made a big kerf and was bagging down the recip saw tried a Milwaukee torch bimetal i had and it soared through the remaining 14' i cooled it with water a couple times was still sharp made a smaller kerf cut quicker quieter easier that blade only died when i bound it up an bent it so it was cutting curves instead of lines
on the other hand though if i need to cut exhaust bolts, shock bolts ect on on my truck i go for the carbide itll cut any steel without getting too hot
i dare say a milwuakee torch would be faster in that solid bar cutting test yous did and last an impressive amount of cuts if kept cool no blade will handle 3 back to back cuts in 2" round bar without cooling
I totally agree that cooing / lubrication are major factors in blade degradation wear but not a [always] realty on a job-site. We try to speak to the majority audience with the tests [Pro Contractors]
@@ConcordCarpenter for sure its rare and usually unnecessary to use any cooling on a recip in the real world if necessary its usually a splash of my drinking water
In Swiss there is only one rsb factory, Bosch factory. All diablo recip saw blades and also circular saw blades are made by Bosch. Bosch has the largest carbide rsb Line on the market.
Mirek Dudka same parent company
Plumber here. If I need to adjust the common cast sizes of 2" or 3"
How many cuts would I get?
I considered buying a super sawzall but maybe it'll just be cheaper to cut a new piece. Or just use my grinder
If you need to slice through some 2 inch use a Milwaukee 7-9 inch battery grinder with 12.0 batteries you can slice completely through from one side. The Diablo amped are pretty wicked. At work I made 4 cuts on 6 inch schedule 80 and one 4 inch schedule 80 on one Diablo sawzall blade with battery sawzall. They were in a tight place.
I wonder if starting with a weight on the blade could actually chip some teeth from the get-go. Might be a good thing to try it with & without for a second or two pass and then remove and examine the teeth. While it appears as a way of keeping the test fair, if one of the blade-types teeth chip right off the start, the fairness of the test goes right out the window.
Could even be used as a separate test on the brazing strength of the carbide teeth to the metal blade.
Honestly I doubt it. I've done just that and I've cut many bolts and not the teeth are still perfect.
@@jerrelCbanks Maybe but that's not exactly a controlled test of one way vs the other..
These blades can be amazing when you really need them (tight spaces), but for the price, it should be your last option when you see how fast they wear out.
I agree - great for a one and done demo blade on a few bathrooms
Simply put. If you need to make 1 or 2 really difficult cuts then the $20+ dollar 9" Diablo is the clear choice.
Will either blade cut through 7" of a weld seam? Would a diamond blade be better?
Any blade is doing well to cut through metal of those grades and thicknesses. They are expensive though you would really have to need to cut that metal and have no other option to go through a $20 blade, it's good to have the option though. 👍🙂
Like I said this is a great option in your "problem-solving tool box."
I have been looking for a good blade to cut 4" Cast iron pipe. Im looking for something that will cut faster or close to a diamond blade on my grinder. If I can get 2-3 cuts out of 1 blade I would be happy. I found 5 packs of 9" blades for $39. I'm going to buy 2 packs and see how they do. I wish someone came out with an inside cutter for tight spots. I have been doing sewer repairs for almost 30 years and have tried everything out there, I'm always looking for something new to make my job and my guy's job easier. Thanks for the great demo!
Let us know your thoughts
Great test guys.. like always 👍👍 I work in material testing ....lower hardness materials should be cut at higher speeds then harder materials will help the life of the blades....a tip if u use a wax stick to put on the blades before cutting softer material with highest speed will keep the blade from gumming up
Thanks
Have you tried any saw blade on post-tensioning strand?
Is the amped just a rebrand of their regular carbide?
its not
The Diablo 9" AMPED blade is simply a great thick metal cutting blade. Look after your blade and it will look after you.
Remember, HEAT is the biggest enemy of any cutting blade.
1/ Always use Cutting oil when cutting thick metal. Coat it on the blade and on the cutting surface.
2/ Choose the longest blade you can to do the job. It will stay cooler for longer.
3/ Use a variable speed reciprocating saw with these blades. When cutting metal use the slowest speed you can and let the blade do the work.
Do those three things and you will extend the cutting life of your Diablo AMPED blades significantly. They are a little more expensive but much better value for money in the longer term if you treat them well.
Thorough review as always Rob! Thanks for the inside scoop. I was wondering are you A Concord Carpenter like Concord, MA? Sending love from Medford, MA!
I would rather go through 3 or even 4 cheap Milwaukee bi-metal blades at $2.50 ea than scrap 1 expensive blade $16 but that's me. And change-out time is negligible with the quik-change feature found on all the new Sawzalls.
I love Diablo blades !!!!!!!!!!! These new Milwaukee Nitrus blades are very Cool !!!!!!!!!!!!!
great blades - ties are changing for metal cutting
I stick with Diablo won't change my mind
Adam Mosher no worries brother they make an amazing blade
I'll take the unused ones. Thanks ;-)
They're nice blades - Ill fight you for them ;)
I haven’t hear of 4:48 “Cast iron steel pipe” I have heard of cast iron pipe and I believe cast steel pipe but never cast iron steel pipe. And, at 5:40 you reference “solid cast pipe”, another term I haven’t heard before. Is this the same thing as a steel rod? I have never seen a cast iron or cast steel solid pipe. Educate me please... are these terms in common use in the USA and understood by everyone? BTW, I enjoy your presentations and appreciate the enthusiasm of the presenter. 👍
Dean Rhodenizer yes steel rod
This blade's purpose is cutting a bushing and bolt off a trailing arm and... not sure what else.
Still waiting on a 1/2" impact comparison
Father Firefighter your a pain
@@ConcordCarpenter Haha I love you guys but I'm persistent
Eh I just use the cast iron cutting recip blades. No teeth just abrasive cut with diamond shit, don’t have to worry about carbide teeth breaking off. Diablo and Lenox both offer them, probably other companies too
day ago i used both diablo antd milwaukee to cut hadened bolts swiss made diablo wins and still aliwe, milwaukee lost touths
Wow
Love goals: Get Milwaukee products before they’re out to the general public.
Rob... you can't have a time of 1m79secs. That's 2m19secs. Come on now.
Too much talking and wasn’t able to see any of the cuts
1 min 79 sec? Who the hell tells time like that??
verbal typo
ᔕᕼOᑭ TOᑌᖇ?
Catalytic converter thieves will be happy
Diablo on my death bed
Project farm has already done this. Diablo wins every time.
cpt awesome Don’t think so...pretty sure no one has both these new blades. What’s the link?
Project Farm didn't test these exact blades. These are all new and not out yet.
This was all talk. No cutting