My machine is enroute from Canada and I've been searching for videos with clear close ups and clear and precise explanations...your video is the winner ..again GREAT CLOSE UPS...❤❤❤❤
Excellent video and intruction. Thank you! Good tip from another viewer to put a small bit of felt in the missing shuttle oil spot. They are great sewing machines and still sew beautifully after all these years.
I have a Singer Model 127 from 1896 serial number 13518895 in a treadle table. Strangely the stitch isn’t the same as yours (I’m not sure it it’s my tension or because it’s a much younger machine) I wanted to thank you for this interesting and informative video...I love people like you who take time to educate and help others. Thanks.
Your shuttle oil wick is missing under the front slide plate. It keeps the shuttle race oiled and running smoothly. Cut a tiny piece of felt, poke it into the hole, drench it in sewing machine oil and keep it full. Make sure the tiny hole at the top of that hole is unclogged that faces the shuttle race. I have a 128-13 from 1937 (knee control in the domed, wooden bentwood case) and discovered this when I was de-gunking, cleaning and totally re-wiring the machine. Happy sewing! 😬✌🇺🇸
This is such an informative video and I enjoyed it immensely. My husband came in just and I was just finishing my rant about machines back then being made before the idea of planned obsolescence, and not 10 seconds later, you're on the same box, I loved it! If I may offer a suggestion; if you were to invest in a tripod, you could set your camera exactly where you need it, and be hands free to really demonstrate smoothly. This is truly excellent content. I love UA-cam for stuff like this. Where else can you get such an in-depth helpful look at a piece of old technical kit? Thanks so much for uploading this one. :o)
Thank you for taking the time and care to make such a detailed and informative video! I'm putting a new belt on my great grandma is machine and looking forward to learning how to use it. You've given me a much better chance at success.
Thank you so much for the information! I just got a hand crank sewing machine (no idea where to find the model type) and this video and the one on the loading of the bobbin pin were very useful.
I am now going over a model 128 from 1924 which I think is almost the same. I'm glad you showed the needle doing the double-dip as I was wondering if that was normal! I couldn't see anything wrong so I figured eventually I'll find out if it sews or not. This is my first shuttle machine. Unless I am mistaken there is not even ONE gear in the entire machine!
My machine according to the serial number list was built in 1910 on August 24. Thanks for your help in figuring out how to wind the bobbin and load it into the shuttle carrier. I’m not finished with the restoration yet and am waiting for the front access plate which I was able to order online. I’m having to rebuild the cabinet and have ordered the drive belt. But I’m delighted to report that I was able to sew a beautiful seam just turning the wheel by hand. In winding the bobbin I had to turn it by hand as it seemed to get stuck quite frequently. Also, the faster I turned the wheel, it developed a funny humming sound. Any suggestions?
I have a Singer 27 that I’m waiting on a shuttle and bobbins for in the mail. Its shuttle carrier is one that was swapped in from a 127 so I don’t know if the shuttle will even work (it was listed as 27/28/127/128 but I found out after ordering it that those machines had slightly different shuttles). I’m happy to finally own a treadle though and excited to get it working
I think that the 127/128 shuttle will work in the 27 machine if the 127/128 carrier has been installed. Best way to tell if you have a 127/128 carrier is if it has the ejector button. The 27/28 carriers do not have the ejector button. You will need a 27 carrier if you go back to an original 27 shuttle. The 127 carrier and shuttle makes a nice upgrade to a 27 machine.
When I try to thread the shuttle first step goes like clockwork but the second where you go back up it doesn’t go under and inside! Please help my first shuttle machine!
@@willablake9284 If you are still having problems try removing the screw and lift off the spring from the shuttle. Then clean underneath the spring/screw any lint or fuzz/dirt. It also gives you the opportunity to see where the thread goes underneath. When you reassemble the spring to the shuttle you will need to adjust the tension on the thread. dangle the shuttle by the thread with the bobbin installed and threaded and give it a shake, the shuttle should drop just a bit. tighten or loosen the screw to adjust the tension. Good luck! Jon
I'm having a lot of trouble getting the tension right. The bobbin thread is being drawn up to the top, the top thread laying on top of the fabric. Whatever I adjust, I can't get a balanced stitch. Apart from the shuttle and the tension assembly, is there anything else I should look at? I'm sure it is threaded correctly, although it is an earlier model that has a thumb release for the tension discs instead of raising the foot. Great look at a vintage machine in your video. Thanks.
Check and make sure that all the parts that apply tension to the thread are clean and polished. Disassemble the shuttle by removing the tension adjusting screw and separating the spring from the body. Clean these parts, and check the thread path for rust and any rough grooving. Usually, a cleaning is all that is required, lint and dirt will get trapped under the spring in the thread path, and the shuttle is seldom taken apart for cleaning. Any rust or grooving will require some polishing to make these areas smooth again. Check the tension discs for the upper thread, make sure the discs a clean and smooth, with a (not mirror) polished, consistent surface that resembles stainless steel.
Very interesting video, but you need a tripod for your camera! IN any case, I really appreciate it. I just got an 1893 treadle, one family owner so it's in great condition. it appears to have the bullet bobbin case and the elongate bobbins. Have you found a manual for these machines? I wonder if someone has rewritten one. I have a manual for my 1948 featherweight 221. thanks for the video.
Thank you SO MUCH for this video! I've been struggling trying to understand my treadle machine but this answered so many of my questions. One last one though, do you have to use specific thread with these machines?
Most any good quality thread will work in these sewing machines, just make sure the size of the needle you use is appropriate to the size of thread and the material you are sewing.
Singer's "vibrating shuttle" machine started in 1885 with the singer high arm family vs now referred to as the singer vs1. It was a poor design and in 1886 the vs2 was put out. Both the vs1 and vs2 are "fiddle base" machines similar to their singer new family/ singer 12 machine. Very nice original simanco shuttle and bobbins!! You are lucky there, the reproduction bobbins are not a perfect fit. They load heavy on the ends due to the nib or "point" on the bobbins ends being a square end cylinder rather than like your bobbin, to a point. The brass ends on the reproductions are thicker as well. I see you fix electric fans and some fans use the same wick as the oil hole to lubricate the shuttle race instead of the felt. The felt works, but originally they had the wick.
The Singer VS1 is an interesting machine. If you look under the bedplate of one, you'll see it is the mechanism of the 12/New Family modified to swing a long-arc shuttle carrier and shuttle, like what White/Davis/Domestic/New Home et.al. use. When Robert Whitehill designed the mechanism that would become the one used in the VS2, VS3, 27, 28, 127, and 128, he changed the shuttle carrier to the short radius design unique to the Singer. Interestingly, Whitehill's basic mechanism was so good that it survived in modified form in the 66 and 99 machines.
My machine is enroute from Canada and I've been searching for videos with clear close ups and clear and precise explanations...your video is the winner ..again GREAT CLOSE UPS...❤❤❤❤
I like your videos because there are good close ups and very detailed commentary.
Excellent video and intruction. Thank you! Good tip from another viewer to put a small bit of felt in the missing shuttle oil spot. They are great sewing machines and still sew beautifully after all these years.
Thanks to u I got my machine working tonight! So amazing 100 years old still works better than every person under 40
I have a Singer Model 127 from 1896 serial number 13518895 in a treadle table. Strangely the stitch isn’t the same as yours (I’m not sure it it’s my tension or because it’s a much younger machine) I wanted to thank you for this interesting and informative video...I love people like you who take time to educate and help others. Thanks.
That can be adjusted
That is adjustable
Your shuttle oil wick is missing under the front slide plate. It keeps the shuttle race oiled and running smoothly. Cut a tiny piece of felt, poke it into the hole, drench it in sewing machine oil and keep it full. Make sure the tiny hole at the top of that hole is unclogged that faces the shuttle race. I have a 128-13 from 1937 (knee control in the domed, wooden bentwood case) and discovered this when I was de-gunking, cleaning and totally re-wiring the machine. Happy sewing! 😬✌🇺🇸
I forgot to discuss this too!
Wow i realized mine was missing too, didnt know it was a thing. Thanks!
This is such an informative video and I enjoyed it immensely. My husband came in just and I was just finishing my rant about machines back then being made before the idea of planned obsolescence, and not 10 seconds later, you're on the same box, I loved it! If I may offer a suggestion; if you were to invest in a tripod, you could set your camera exactly where you need it, and be hands free to really demonstrate smoothly.
This is truly excellent content. I love UA-cam for stuff like this. Where else can you get such an in-depth helpful look at a piece of old technical kit? Thanks so much for uploading this one. :o)
Thank you for taking the time and care to make such a detailed and informative video! I'm putting a new belt on my great grandma is machine and looking forward to learning how to use it. You've given me a much better chance at success.
You are welcome!
Thank you so much for the information! I just got a hand crank sewing machine (no idea where to find the model type) and this video and the one on the loading of the bobbin pin were very useful.
I am working on getting several antique treadles cleaned and oiled, but a hand crank is my goal now!
I am now going over a model 128 from 1924 which I think is almost the same. I'm glad you showed the needle doing the double-dip as I was wondering if that was normal! I couldn't see anything wrong so I figured eventually I'll find out if it sews or not. This is my first shuttle machine. Unless I am mistaken there is not even ONE gear in the entire machine!
That is correct, all cranks, cams, and sliding blocks, no gears. The double-dip is a feature of all shuttle machines, makes them fun to watch running.
What perfect and beautiful stitches!👍👍👍👍😄
I really enjoyed this demonstration
Great, informative video! Thanks so much! My mother has one of these and I would like to get it into good working order so I can actually use it.
My machine according to the serial number list was built in 1910 on August 24. Thanks for your help in figuring out how to wind the bobbin and load it into the shuttle carrier. I’m not finished with the restoration yet and am waiting for the front access plate which I was able to order online. I’m having to rebuild the cabinet and have ordered the drive belt. But I’m delighted to report that I was able to sew a beautiful seam just turning the wheel by hand. In winding the bobbin I had to turn it by hand as it seemed to get stuck quite frequently. Also, the faster I turned the wheel, it developed a funny humming sound. Any suggestions?
Excellent video. Thank you very much for taking the time to really go trough all the details. :)
I have a Singer 27 that I’m waiting on a shuttle and bobbins for in the mail. Its shuttle carrier is one that was swapped in from a 127 so I don’t know if the shuttle will even work (it was listed as 27/28/127/128 but I found out after ordering it that those machines had slightly different shuttles). I’m happy to finally own a treadle though and excited to get it working
I think that the 127/128 shuttle will work in the 27 machine if the 127/128 carrier has been installed. Best way to tell if you have a 127/128 carrier is if it has the ejector button. The 27/28 carriers do not have the ejector button. You will need a 27 carrier if you go back to an original 27 shuttle.
The 127 carrier and shuttle makes a nice upgrade to a 27 machine.
It works! :)
When I try to thread the shuttle first step goes like clockwork but the second where you go back up it doesn’t go under and inside! Please help my first shuttle machine!
@@willablake9284 If you are still having problems try removing the screw and lift off the spring from the shuttle. Then clean underneath the spring/screw any lint or fuzz/dirt. It also gives you the opportunity to see where the thread goes underneath. When you reassemble the spring to the shuttle you will need to adjust the tension on the thread. dangle the shuttle by the thread with the bobbin installed and threaded and give it a shake, the shuttle should drop just a bit. tighten or loosen the screw to adjust the tension. Good luck! Jon
I'm having a lot of trouble getting the tension right. The bobbin thread is being drawn up to the top, the top thread laying on top of the fabric. Whatever I adjust, I can't get a balanced stitch. Apart from the shuttle and the tension assembly, is there anything else I should look at? I'm sure it is threaded correctly, although it is an earlier model that has a thumb release for the tension discs instead of raising the foot.
Great look at a vintage machine in your video. Thanks.
Check and make sure that all the parts that apply tension to the thread are clean and polished. Disassemble the shuttle by removing the tension adjusting screw and separating the spring from the body. Clean these parts, and check the thread path for rust and any rough grooving. Usually, a cleaning is all that is required, lint and dirt will get trapped under the spring in the thread path, and the shuttle is seldom taken apart for cleaning. Any rust or grooving will require some polishing to make these areas smooth again.
Check the tension discs for the upper thread, make sure the discs a clean and smooth, with a (not mirror) polished, consistent surface that resembles stainless steel.
@@okbridges Thanks so much for that list... I've got a lot to look at this weekend!
Very interesting video, but you need a tripod for your camera! IN any case, I really appreciate it. I just got an 1893 treadle, one family owner so it's in great condition. it appears to have the bullet bobbin case and the elongate bobbins. Have you found a manual for these machines? I wonder if someone has rewritten one. I have a manual for my 1948 featherweight 221. thanks for the video.
Thank You! You might also enjoy the video I made on a New National shuttle bobbin machine: ua-cam.com/video/9LGJUcTVGZI/v-deo.html
Excellent video and very informative. I have a question for you. Does this model sew in reverse? Thank you very much.
This machine stitches forwards only.
Thank you SO MUCH for this video! I've been struggling trying to understand my treadle machine but this answered so many of my questions. One last one though, do you have to use specific thread with these machines?
Most any good quality thread will work in these sewing machines, just make sure the size of the needle you use is appropriate to the size of thread and the material you are sewing.
Singer's "vibrating shuttle" machine started in 1885 with the singer high arm family vs now referred to as the singer vs1. It was a poor design and in 1886 the vs2 was put out. Both the vs1 and vs2 are "fiddle base" machines similar to their singer new family/ singer 12 machine. Very nice original simanco shuttle and bobbins!! You are lucky there, the reproduction bobbins are not a perfect fit. They load heavy on the ends due to the nib or "point" on the bobbins ends being a square end cylinder rather than like your bobbin, to a point. The brass ends on the reproductions are thicker as well. I see you fix electric fans and some fans use the same wick as the oil hole to lubricate the shuttle race instead of the felt. The felt works, but originally they had the wick.
The Singer VS1 is an interesting machine. If you look under the bedplate of one, you'll see it is the mechanism of the 12/New Family modified to swing a long-arc shuttle carrier and shuttle, like what White/Davis/Domestic/New Home et.al. use. When Robert Whitehill designed the mechanism that would become the one used in the VS2, VS3, 27, 28, 127, and 128, he changed the shuttle carrier to the short radius design unique to the Singer. Interestingly, Whitehill's basic mechanism was so good that it survived in modified form in the 66 and 99 machines.
Súper México
Back when quality was pride , now it profit over quality...
Very Good!..
So this Singer didn't have a reverse button...?
Only the later ones made after WWII have a reverse stitch and it is a lever, not a button.
I have one of these but it keeps skipping stitches
Do you know where I might find the plate that slides over the top of the bobbin ?
Helen Howes in the UK or check on eBay.
I’m sorry but the last of the bobbin threading was just lost when we couldn’t see how you pulled it back up into the shuttle.