I have found that it is 90% research and 10% applying what you learned. It can be frustrating but like all good things you have to put the time in to learn your machine. Thanks for the videos keep them coming they are a huge part of my research before i do a lot of my cuts.
Hey Rich I agree a 100% on what you said. You have to play with settings. and I have ton of waist wood that I always test on. Since upgrade to the NEJE laser I still do a ton of testing just because when have nice piece of 5 MM pine you do not want to mess it up. So this has been a rule of thumb since getting my Ortur LM2 test before you cut. like the old saying measure twice cut once same thing goes for the laser test be fore you start a cut. I have been doing tons of stuff . Its funny i watched how to make clock on one of your videos worked like charm I always reference your videos before I start project just so I don't mess it up. Rich doing outstanding job on your videos like I have said before great reference tool. Cheers Fred
Another fine video. I have burned some very intricate pieces before and have sacrificed some material in the process. These diode lasers will cut some very intricate pieces if you lower the power, play with the speed, and increase the number of passes. It is not always about how fast you can make a piece but rather that it is possible to make it without turning everything to charcoal.
You see on the lasered side of the wood there is some burnbleeding, there is a relative simple way to have less of this bleeding. Simply put painterstape over the side you are going to laser. You will see a lot less bleeding. Maybe add a 5% power, i cut 3mm plywood with 300 mm/min and 75% in 4 passes. But i have to admit i focus on the top of the wood so i will try the halfway method. Thanks for the video.
Hi Rich hope you're having a great holiday, thanks for another informative video, don't let these negative people get you down there's always someone take care
Shock setting! You sir, are genius ! thankyou! I've had my Ortur Laser Master 2 error several times on me with that error. I thought it was a grounding issue, so I did the grounding hack. Now I'm going to try THIS fix. :)
I can't curse on here. But the hell with what people are saying to you Rich!!. I'm a newbie at lasering. Just bought a ortur laser master 2. Have know idea what I'm doing!! But my point is that you're doing these video just inform people like myself who are looking for knowledge of people that have through the trial and error of learning. I just wanna say thank you for your videos. It's a big help to me at least!! Ty newbie Al!!
$33 solves a lot of problems for me. I just received my Ortur LM2Pro LF/air assist. The USB cable that I received was basically junk, so I had that issue. I did NOT have things securely mounted as I just had to play with my new toy as soon as it turned on. Yikes. Once I got serious, you provided the answers to tech issues that I believe that I would have struggled to find. I am going to have to get over to your website and buy some files and maybe send you a "beverage" through the app. Many thanks good sir!
Rich, you should write a book, a Lightburn instruction manual for dummies!! Have you ever thought about a career in radio? Your voice would be perfect mate 👍
The world is full of them bud. There's more nasty people than not nasty...lol.. take it with a grain of salt because your one of the most knowledgeable laser users here on UA-cam. I hope that I can learn as much as you have forgotten...
As usual Rich, great video. Clear, concise and instructive. I am trying to download the Eiffel Tower file, went to the link below your video and got this "The requested URL or webpage address /product/3-d-eiffel-tower/ was not found. " Can you suggest another link? Many thanks.
Good video, thanks for explaining the process better. . I bought the Neje 40w and after multiple practice passes on 3mil I finally got it to cut through on 1 pass. I had to use 175 speed, 75 power, and 21mm focus, but it did it. Have a great Thanksgiving with the family.
When I use mine I have a 3D printed block that one half is 21mm and the other is 17mm. For thick material I use the 17mm and for thinner stuff like 3mm ply I use the 21mm side. I run my cuts with air assist and at 250mm/min at 75% power. That's with a Neje 40W module mounted on an Ortur LM2 chassis.
I build an air assist with a 3D printer, the results are less burn sign on the wood and an huge 30% more cutting power, just because if you add compressed air the wood burn better and no smoke/hash shield the laser ray.
Rich thanks again for all your Work. I have a CO2 80w machine. If Need to do more passes, I found it works better to cut the "whole" thing then go back and cut again.... and again if needed. With LB you just have to add another layer. That way the area gets time to cool off some and with less damage. Can that be done with your type laser?? Maybe it will be less cleanup ?? Great JOb once again. Thanks
Yes Rich, on the C02 it is absolutely better to run the job as a whole with several passes. But I find the cheaper diode lasers miss steps along the way, so I run them as individual groups.
Great video Rich!! I should have watched your video last night, because this morning I had exactly the problem you were describing about the shock movement… I will be passing through Louisiana at the end of January 2022 on my road trip throughout the USA…Any recommendations on what to visit and see in Louisiana?
Oh my gosh Gerald! That is a question that would take a 4 hour video to answer! I guess my favorite places are Oak Alley Plantation & The WWII Museum, but there is just so much to do here.
Thank you for this video, i did a detailed ornament using MM/min 400/100 - on 3mm baltic birch plywood, and it took 11 passes to cut through, i was so frustrated, and its happened a lot. I'm using the sculpfun S6 Pro, and only using the 20mm spacer. Thank you
first thing i always do before a new cut-project is to create a circle of about 1 cm diameter and let the laser cut it.I do light passes ,the goal with my diode-laser is to burn through in 3-4 passes in 3mm hardwood.That test doesnt need much time and material.It uses both the y and x axis as they dont cut equal because my laser hasnt a square point.As soon as the circle is cut through i can stop,get the numbers and start the main project while adding one more pass for safety.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy ....Thank you for your reply... I highly recommend them to help keep the work clean... Not to mention keeping the lens clean too... I think everyone should use one... but hey , that's just me....lol
Usually from Lowe's in 4x8 sheets. But in the last two months during the remodeling, the wood shop is filled with things to create the new space, so I've been buying pre-cuts from Amazon.
I learn more from you then any video on youtube. Thanks. I have one question, when yours was cutting 3 passes, it would only go so far and then do it again. Mine if I say 3 passes, it will go all the way around 3 times. How do I change this setting?
For thick cuts, what's your preferred method to reset depth of focus after the initial few passes? The Z1 has 4 thumbscrews for the adjustment. Not the brightest idea IMO. I'm planning to create something (if nothing exists) for either fine pitch all-thread or a small stepper motor (I'd love to attempt to add a BLTouch) to make adjustment less fiddly.
VERY CAREFULLY! 😁 I am currently working on a prototype simple gear in CAD and a Nema-17 stepper to change the Z in Lightburn during a pause, but I saw Ortur launched a new focus adjuster with just one knob on top. I might buy that one to test it.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy you too eh? I just need time to cad something up and figure out if the comgrow board has the capability or if I have to make my own based off Marlin. At a minimum I want a knob & threaded rod. Ultimately I want a BLTouch for auto sensing material height. That side of things I can do w/ my old Ender 3 board, but it wouldn't be integrated into lightburn sadly.
Sorry for the dumb question! I'm so new I haven't hatched yet. You mention a "Power Scale" in the video... is that a file/template that you run? If so, how can I obtain one? Thanks so much and awesome video :)
I have a 5 W laser Kentok tool jl5 and I’m having trouble with it and graven and then I was also told that the 5 W lasers will not engrave. I’m not engraved but won’t cut acrylic. Is that true?
Thanks once more for explaining in an amazing way, I have this problem whenever I am engraving for more than 10 minutes my neje 30 w. it stops, could you give me any suggestions what can I do? I'll really appreciate.
Hey Rich, first of all thanks for all that you do it is appreciated. Secondly i was wondering if you ever ran into this problem that i have been dealing with, part way through the burn i get an error 24, lightburns forum talked a bit about it but nothing seemed to help. I tried replacing the USB cable and also saving as lbrn and not lbrn2 to no avail. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Gcode error 24 is a communication failure I believe. I'm on vacation so I'm not at my computer, but if memory serves, flashing the EEPROM on the control board should fix it. Some folks say it's a bad USB cord, so you can check that as well.
Just a quick update, even though i switched out the USB cable i i found one i had in a drawer, plugged it in and low and behold everything works. Hope you had a great time over the holiday.
When i got my Atomstack m40 (5w) i couldnt get it to cut 1/4 mdf or ply. With 30 passes. The manufacture says it will cut 12mm hardwood. I think they mean 12mm basswood, as it is way softer. So i decided to play with some etching and other skills and then come back to it. After talking to the manufacture. Revisited it and this time prepared to take pictures/videos. It cut right through.!!! I have no idea why.. Its as if the laser broke in. Any idea?
Rich, I am confused. Not so much about the Eiffel Tower but more about which system you use. For this video you brought your Ortur 2.5W system. But in the video you mention a 14.2W NEJE. For someone who is thinking about getting a system, I hear a lot of good things about the Ortur Pro 2. But through all of my investigation it seems the two crucial factors are actual laser power and dot size. So could you explain to this noob what system you are using, please?
The original Eiffel Tower video was done with the dual diode (14W) Neje laser Douglass. I took out the Ortur in this video to show that it could have been done with any laser with the right settings. If you watch the original, that was using the Neje module, cutting in one pass. ua-cam.com/video/Bo5z-SN4Dlg/v-deo.html
HI Rich I have a 50 watt co2 omtech and I've ;earned the type wood is a big factor. I do have a question, there's a section that doesn't cut like the rest of the areas. For instance, I tried cutting a round door sign made from 1/4" sanded ply. If I use a high power setting the edges get really burned so I tried lower (60-65% power slower and multiple passes and that seems to work except for the from 12 o'clock (in a circle) to about 4 o'clock the rest has a clean cut . At first I thought it was because the wood had a little warp but the next and the next did the same thing. Any ideas??
With regards to the movement shock, do you have your Ortur LM2 fastened to the wood board or is it best left loose? Also, if you go into the Lightburn menu, Edit -> Device Settings -> Additional Settings then press "Read From Controller" it lists and you can edit acceleration settings, is one of these the equivalent of the shock setting?
Yes, you absolutely fasten it to the waste board. And yes, you can set your white space scan (device settings) to a lower number for projects with a lot of small turns. I usually set it at 3-8000, but for intricate tight turns, I'll lower it to 3-500. The read from controller is only synchronizing Lightburn's preview window time estimate with your particular controller.
I may be slow responding for a while... On Vacation! Happy Thanksgiving everyone! I am extremely thankful for *ALL OF YOU!*
Who needs the Lightburn manual when we have you. Great job, Rich. Keep up the great work.
*Thanks Christopher!* 👍
I have found that it is 90% research and 10% applying what you learned. It can be frustrating but like all good things you have to put the time in to learn your machine. Thanks for the videos keep them coming they are a huge part of my research before i do a lot of my cuts.
So true Charles! Thanks for watching!
So awesome!!! Thanks so much for taking the time to show us how to get this done!!!
You are so welcome DeNica!
Hey Rich
I agree a 100% on what you said. You have to play with settings. and I have ton of waist wood that I always test on. Since upgrade to the NEJE laser I still do a ton of testing just because when have nice piece of 5 MM pine you do not want to mess it up. So this has been a rule of thumb since
getting my Ortur LM2 test before you cut. like the old saying measure twice cut once same thing goes for the laser test be fore you start a cut. I have been doing tons of stuff . Its funny i watched how to make clock on one of your videos worked like charm I always reference your videos before I start project just so I don't mess it up.
Rich doing outstanding job on your videos like I have said before great reference tool.
Cheers Fred
Thanks so much for watching Fred!
Another fine video. I have burned some very intricate pieces before and have sacrificed some material in the process. These diode lasers will cut some very intricate pieces if you lower the power, play with the speed, and increase the number of passes. It is not always about how fast you can make a piece but rather that it is possible to make it without turning everything to charcoal.
You got that right Kris!
Thanks for some great advice, and some simple answers.
My pleasure Chris! Thank you for watching!
Thanks, every one of your videos are excellent! Your intro aka 1st minute was exceptionally great!
Thank you so much! I appreciate the support!
Another great video thanks picked up some really good tips especially focus.
Glad it was helpful Timothy!
thanks rich, have a very blessed thanksgiving!
Thank you Jim! Same to you!
That intro was hilarious
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Some people just need to be told! 🤪
You see on the lasered side of the wood there is some burnbleeding, there is a relative simple way to have less of this bleeding. Simply put painterstape over the side you are going to laser. You will see a lot less bleeding. Maybe add a 5% power, i cut 3mm plywood with 300 mm/min and 75% in 4 passes. But i have to admit i focus on the top of the wood so i will try the halfway method. Thanks for the video.
I prefer laser transfer tape, but this most of my videos are for newbies just learning. Thanks for mentioning the tip Ronald!
Hi Rich hope you're having a great holiday, thanks for another informative video, don't let these negative people get you down there's always someone take care
I don't Pete! I understand their frustration! The main purpose of the video is to try and nip that frustration in the bud before it even happens!
Shock setting! You sir, are genius ! thankyou! I've had my Ortur Laser Master 2 error several times on me with that error. I thought it was a grounding issue, so I did the grounding hack. Now I'm going to try THIS fix. :)
I hope that works for you!
Awesome info and tutorial as usual. Thanks, Rich, for all you do with your videos. Happy Thanksgiving!
Thank you Jason! Happy Thanksgiving to you too!
Great information 👍 keep up the great tutorials.
Thanks, will do!
I can't curse on here. But the hell with what people are saying to you Rich!!. I'm a newbie at lasering. Just bought a ortur laser master 2. Have know idea what I'm doing!! But my point is that you're doing these video just inform people like myself who are looking for knowledge of people that have through the trial and error of learning. I just wanna say thank you for your videos. It's a big help to me at least!! Ty newbie Al!!
My pleasure Al! You can't please everyone! The folks emailing me for help are just frustrated. I understand that, which is why I made the video.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy hey rich. Do you have an email. I'm having trouble with a file. Was wondering if you would be able to help me
thelahobbyguy@gmail.com
$33 solves a lot of problems for me. I just received my Ortur LM2Pro LF/air assist. The USB cable that I received was basically junk, so I had that issue. I did NOT have things securely mounted as I just had to play with my new toy as soon as it turned on. Yikes. Once I got serious, you provided the answers to tech issues that I believe that I would have struggled to find. I am going to have to get over to your website and buy some files and maybe send you a "beverage" through the app. Many thanks good sir!
My pleasure Robert, happy to help when I can!
Thank you for the info
Any time!
Rich, you should write a book, a Lightburn instruction manual for dummies!!
Have you ever thought about a career in radio? Your voice would be perfect mate 👍
😁 Thanks, my father was in radio! But the book already exists! It's under the Help menu! 😎
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy haha it's all in the genes then!!
The world is full of them bud. There's more nasty people than not nasty...lol.. take it with a grain of salt because your one of the most knowledgeable laser users here on UA-cam. I hope that I can learn as much as you have forgotten...
Wow, you're making me blush! Thanks...
As usual Rich, great video. Clear, concise and instructive. I am trying to download the Eiffel Tower file, went to the link below your video and got this "The requested URL or webpage address /product/3-d-eiffel-tower/ was not found. " Can you suggest another link? Many thanks.
Works for me Gilbert: engraveandcutfiles.com/?product=3-d-eiffel-tower
Good video, thanks for explaining the process better. . I bought the Neje 40w and after multiple practice passes on 3mil I finally got it to cut through on 1 pass. I had to use 175 speed, 75 power, and 21mm focus, but it did it. Have a great Thanksgiving with the family.
Whe you say 21mm focus, are you 21mm above the work piece when you have focused It?
When I use mine I have a 3D printed block that one half is 21mm and the other is 17mm. For thick material I use the 17mm and for thinner stuff like 3mm ply I use the 21mm side. I run my cuts with air assist and at 250mm/min at 75% power. That's with a Neje 40W module mounted on an Ortur LM2 chassis.
@@georgechambers3197 thanks for explanation
@@Telboy-fv8ke Yes, that's how you focus.
@@georgechambers3197 You're right George, it's easier and faster with air assist.
Changing the shock setting is new. Thanks. Where did you get the wire grid?
Links should be in the description Merrill.
I build an air assist with a 3D printer, the results are less burn sign on the wood and an huge 30% more cutting power, just because if you add compressed air the wood burn better and no smoke/hash shield the laser ray.
Yes Sir, that's correct!
Rich thanks again for all your Work. I have a CO2 80w machine. If Need to do more passes, I found it works better to cut the "whole" thing then go back and cut again.... and again if needed. With LB you just have to add another layer. That way the area gets time to cool off some and with less damage. Can that be done with your type laser?? Maybe it will be less cleanup ?? Great JOb once again. Thanks
Yes Rich, on the C02 it is absolutely better to run the job as a whole with several passes. But I find the cheaper diode lasers miss steps along the way, so I run them as individual groups.
Great video Rich!!
I should have watched your video last night, because this morning I had exactly the problem you were describing about the shock movement…
I will be passing through Louisiana at the end of January 2022 on my road trip throughout the USA…Any recommendations on what to visit and see in Louisiana?
Oh my gosh Gerald! That is a question that would take a 4 hour video to answer! I guess my favorite places are Oak Alley Plantation & The WWII Museum, but there is just so much to do here.
Thank you for this video, i did a detailed ornament using MM/min 400/100 - on 3mm baltic birch plywood, and it took 11 passes to cut through, i was so frustrated, and its happened a lot. I'm using the sculpfun S6 Pro, and only using the 20mm spacer. Thank you
Glad it helped John!
first thing i always do before a new cut-project is to create a circle of about 1 cm diameter and let the laser cut it.I do light passes ,the goal with my diode-laser is to burn through in 3-4 passes in 3mm hardwood.That test doesnt need much time and material.It uses both the y and x axis as they dont cut equal because my laser hasnt a square point.As soon as the circle is cut through i can stop,get the numbers and start the main project while adding one more pass for safety.
Quick and easy... I like that, thanks!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thank you dude for your amazing work teaching us lazy guys who do not RTFM,greetings from far away germany
I am surprised you are not using an air assist nozzle on you laser.
I picked mine up from laser wizard and it has made a huge difference.
I use it all the time, just not in videos because most people don't have one.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy ....Thank you for your reply...
I highly recommend them to help keep the work clean... Not to mention keeping the lens clean too...
I think everyone should use one... but hey , that's just me....lol
Great as usual! Do you buy your plywood from the big box store or from another source?
Usually from Lowe's in 4x8 sheets. But in the last two months during the remodeling, the wood shop is filled with things to create the new space, so I've been buying pre-cuts from Amazon.
I learn more from you then any video on youtube. Thanks. I have one question, when yours was cutting 3 passes, it would only go so far and then do it again. Mine if I say 3 passes, it will go all the way around 3 times. How do I change this setting?
That is correct. In my optimization settings on the laser tab, I have order by group, priority & layer Brad.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thanks, I will have to see if I can figure that out.
@@loyalistman You'll get it Sir!
I cut 4.5 mm luan plywood at 450mm/m at 100%, 1 pass. Cuts beautifully. I have a Falcon 2 22 watt
Yes, Luan is nice, I have the Falcon 22W as well. The LaserMATIC 20 cuts it faster than the Falcon.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy do you use material as thick as 1/4" (3/16) luan or do you mostly stay at 3mm or less?
For thick cuts, what's your preferred method to reset depth of focus after the initial few passes? The Z1 has 4 thumbscrews for the adjustment. Not the brightest idea IMO. I'm planning to create something (if nothing exists) for either fine pitch all-thread or a small stepper motor (I'd love to attempt to add a BLTouch) to make adjustment less fiddly.
VERY CAREFULLY! 😁 I am currently working on a prototype simple gear in CAD and a Nema-17 stepper to change the Z in Lightburn during a pause, but I saw Ortur launched a new focus adjuster with just one knob on top. I might buy that one to test it.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy you too eh? I just need time to cad something up and figure out if the comgrow board has the capability or if I have to make my own based off Marlin. At a minimum I want a knob & threaded rod. Ultimately I want a BLTouch for auto sensing material height. That side of things I can do w/ my old Ender 3 board, but it wouldn't be integrated into lightburn sadly.
Sorry for the dumb question! I'm so new I haven't hatched yet. You mention a "Power Scale" in the video... is that a file/template that you run? If so, how can I obtain one? Thanks so much and awesome video :)
Yes, you can get a universal test card in the members only section of my free forum Liby. Links in the description.
I have a 5 W laser Kentok tool jl5 and I’m having trouble with it and graven and then I was also told that the 5 W lasers will not engrave. I’m not engraved but won’t cut acrylic. Is that true?
A 5W diode laser can only cut thin opaque acrylic, like solid black for instance.
Thanks once more for explaining in an amazing way, I have this problem whenever I am engraving for more than 10 minutes my neje 30 w. it stops, could you give me any suggestions what can I do? I'll really appreciate.
Yes Joaquin, it sounds like your USB is going to sleep and disconnecting the laser. Change your power settings on your computer to ALWAYS ON.
Hey Rich, first of all thanks for all that you do it is appreciated. Secondly i was wondering if you ever ran into this problem that i have been dealing with, part way through the burn i get an error 24, lightburns forum talked a bit about it but nothing seemed to help. I tried replacing the USB cable and also saving as lbrn and not lbrn2 to no avail. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Gcode error 24 is a communication failure I believe. I'm on vacation so I'm not at my computer, but if memory serves, flashing the EEPROM on the control board should fix it. Some folks say it's a bad USB cord, so you can check that as well.
Just a quick update, even though i switched out the USB cable i i found one i had in a drawer, plugged it in and low and behold everything works. Hope you had a great time over the holiday.
@@chicagobob8087 Wonderful! Glad it worked!
When i got my Atomstack m40 (5w) i couldnt get it to cut 1/4 mdf or ply. With 30 passes.
The manufacture says it will cut 12mm hardwood.
I think they mean 12mm basswood, as it is way softer.
So i decided to play with some etching and other skills and then come back to it. After talking to the manufacture.
Revisited it and this time prepared to take pictures/videos.
It cut right through.!!!
I have no idea why.. Its as if the laser broke in.
Any idea?
I would assume that you may have had the wrong focus when you first tried? Focus is everything when it comes to cutting.
Do you think a Chinese 2.5 watt would still cut. I’m struggling to get a cut. It engraved well and I have it focused but can seem to get cuts
Yes Dave, I can cut with any of my lasers, even the 1.5W. You have to go really slow and lots of passes. Of course, these aren't meant for cutting.
Rich, I am confused. Not so much about the Eiffel Tower but more about which system you use. For this video you brought your Ortur 2.5W system. But in the video you mention a 14.2W NEJE. For someone who is thinking about getting a system, I hear a lot of good things about the Ortur Pro 2. But through all of my investigation it seems the two crucial factors are actual laser power and dot size. So could you explain to this noob what system you are using, please?
The original Eiffel Tower video was done with the dual diode (14W) Neje laser Douglass. I took out the Ortur in this video to show that it could have been done with any laser with the right settings. If you watch the original, that was using the Neje module, cutting in one pass. ua-cam.com/video/Bo5z-SN4Dlg/v-deo.html
HI Rich I have a 50 watt co2 omtech and I've ;earned the type wood is a big factor. I do have a question, there's a section that doesn't cut like the rest of the areas. For instance, I tried cutting a round door sign made from 1/4" sanded ply. If I use a high power setting the edges get really burned so I tried lower (60-65% power slower and multiple passes and that seems to work except for the from 12 o'clock (in a circle) to about 4 o'clock the rest has a clean cut . At first I thought it was because the wood had a little warp but the next and the next did the same thing. Any ideas??
I'm thinking the mirror alignment is slightly off J B.
the grid of your plan is cut out, where did you take it? thank you!
I don't understand the question.
With regards to the movement shock, do you have your Ortur LM2 fastened to the wood board or is it best left loose?
Also, if you go into the Lightburn menu, Edit -> Device Settings -> Additional Settings then press "Read From Controller" it lists and you can edit acceleration settings, is one of these the equivalent of the shock setting?
Yes, you absolutely fasten it to the waste board. And yes, you can set your white space scan (device settings) to a lower number for projects with a lot of small turns. I usually set it at 3-8000, but for intricate tight turns, I'll lower it to 3-500. The read from controller is only synchronizing Lightburn's preview window time estimate with your particular controller.
Where dis you get your cut platform (riser)?
I got the honeycomb bed on Ali Express. Half the price of Amazon sellers.
When I try to set the $33 command I get this message: $33=2000
error:3
Grbl '$' system command was not recognized or supported.
Not all Neje modules have $33 implemented. My 30w Neje unit doesn't have it either.
It's a control board command. Many control boards use it, but some don't.
Thanks fellas… I have a Yora 6550 40w…
People can be so rude I’m sorry you get those nasty emails from people 🙏🏻ing for them!!!
You’ve helped me more than you will ever know
Thanks again, lots more to come!
I am not sure what are you trying to accomplish. Why not just add proper air assist and do clean cuts at 100% power, much faster?
Agreed, for cutting you really want an air assist system. Cuts better, cleaner, faster.
Because most of my viewers don't have air assist. I try to keep them beginner friendly.
Ungrateful SOBs
It's just frustration Tom, I know, I've been there myself.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy
😦
That's a lot of burn on those parts.
Yep, that laser didn't have air assist. The final settings and project came out beautiful!