Hello Nick, from old spark from the 60's, Nice clear well explained commentary. I'm afraid I'm a bit of a Luddite, I prefer the old way I was taught as an apprentice of only wiring vertically unless absolutely necessary, the reasoning behind that line of thought was if anyone installed a wall cupboard or whatever and screwed through the cable a simple junction box under floorboard bypassing the damage cable and only affecting one socket if kitchen was tiled, I feel uncomfortable seeing horizontal cable even though nothing wrong it just doesn't feel right. BTW great video look foreward to them. Peter.
Two things I don't like isolation switches inside cupboards , they should be visible Incase of an emergency, plus I would install an isolation switch above worktops for all appliances below worktops
I am old school and like to see all my runs dropping vertically except where not possible like beneath the window. Uses more cable I know. I would still rather still use capping to cover the cables rather than the oval conduit, personal choice. Nowadays I would think I would more likely just run in radial circuits instead of using ring circuits.
I prefer oval because you can pull the cable out and replace without it getting ruined on the bricks behind. However I slip in some 6mm cable then use a heatgun to soften the plastic and bend to shape if the run is not straight.
I like oval, and drop down then can see cable under plinths and fish up where required, try and keep from corners in kitchen clear for wall cupboard mounting
Why not use flexible conduit between sockets and stretch relief them inside the box. Finish the flex conduit inside the consumer unit and pull normal wires??? MUCH EASIER
I run conduit into the boxes behind dry lining like you’ve done, only I use 16mm oval conduit which fits nicely into the 20mm knockouts and accepts 2.5mm T&E no problem.
In NI we would use very little oval conduit anymore. Walls are tracked and round conduit is used. Boxes are cemented in also, add some bonding plaster to the mix so it sets quicker. Would also try to leave as little runs across the walls as kitchen fittters and plumbers love drilling into them.
I like the oval conduit straight into the back boxes instead of open grommets ... You're right about future proofing too 35mm boxes are my preference ... Not too sure on the cable routing, I much prefer straight up and down drops from points but each to their own ... Great videos Nick I really enjoy watching these 👍🏼
Capping, grommets and vertical drops or straight horizontal runs for me too. Technically what you're doing is correct but it sort of doesn't feel right and is more labour intensive. Bring the legs out behind the plinths with a bit of play and adding a spur or other mod is pretty simple including pulling a new cable through where it's been damaged. Kitchen fitters, plasterers and plumbers don't give a f#$k in my experience, so I don't risk leaving them to follow prescribed zones. Also, I don't like anything in my back boxes at all 'cause USBs and flat plates take up every single spare mm. Just my experience mate 👍
My assumption is that a prescribed zone is only determined by a *visible* accessory, so if an accessory is only revealed by opening a cupboard and pulling out its contents, yanking out an integrated d/w or removing pan drawers then it can't legitimately determine a pz for that wall. If the cables are all run behind kitchen cabinets (as I presume these are) then I don't think it's a problem (since no-one should be drilling through the back of a kitchen cabinet without checking what's behind it first); if the 'midi' height socket (second in from the corner on the long wall) is visible then I would have run the cable horizontally, only dropping down to the low level once it disappears behind the cabinets (probably just above the socket in the sink unit to make the run sensible). All if possible of course, always lots of potential obstructions to best practice when out in the real world!
Another great video Nick, Not sure about anyone else when I say this but don't worry about the background noise I can still hear you perfectly, stressing your self out over nothing it's no mither really.
I always lazer to the center of the box, just in case I haven't noticed if a box isn't parallel. Also always run conduit into boxes, rarely use grommets but that said in kitchens I always do vertical drops from socket to socket and hide the cables behind the back of the unit legs. I tend to find if there's ever an issue with wiring it's normally a kitchen after a home owner has swapped socket fronts and it just makes pulling in new cable a doddle.
Nick, since the kitchen was bare and you were starting with a blank canvas.... Did you consider a single location for isolation using a grid switch for all the appliances? That's what I favour these days. I'm not a fan of isolation in cupboards myself.
Good shout doing it in grid but still sometimes with integrated appliances with eff all room behind you got no option but to install a socket inside the unit that is nearest. I've noticed the flex on such appliances are longer than they used to which is great when the kitchen designer has slapped a fridge and freezer side by side 🤦♂️
I dont think for me that really meets regs but having done lots on of kitchens myself i know what they’re re like. Also i put isolation in cupboards like most electrcians do nowadays and dont see a problem with it.customers hate isolators on show
Hey Nick, can you clarify as I don't see a socket for fridge/freezer, is it feeding from socket ring or from oven feed? Regarding grommet for backbox, I think grommet would be better for neater look and presentation than poking conduit a bit. 👍🙂
Interesting First Aid kit. I've done the same myself with insulating tape and a bit of kitchen roll etc underneath to help absorb any blood! If you use blue tape, you're also ok as regards food safety! One question - I know they stopped the practice of fixing electrics inside kitchen cabinets in the past. Has this now been changed again? (I'm not fully up to date with regs as I no longer install. Your method will make a very tidy job but I was just wondering, since the regs sometimes make a tidy job very difficult!
Sitting the boxes deeper than necessary when entering a back box tubing will help massively, with my new Modern day problem....USB sockets! Good job gentlemen.
USB sockets suck, these days phones are all fast charge or wireless and 2 or 3 amps in the back of sockets are completely useless. So I semi concealed proper fast charge hub beside kitchen counter lights and another in bedroom dresser.
Probably within zones, but you would try not to enter a box vertically and then exit out of the side if you didn't need to, you would just keep vertical runs so cables are in one zone axis rather than two, not always possible, but looks like it is in that instance, not the way I would do it, but still in the zones
Not to keen on the conduit into the back box. Personally I butt the conduit up to the back box then use an open gromit. Nice to try different things though. Keep up the good work 👍
Completely legal & actually a lot better than I’m seeing in most places but, there are better methods. In kitchens, I tend to put the drops of the rings to each island on first fix, then use trunking & mini drops up for second fix.
Always really enjoy the videos. With regards to zones. In the building regs it says horizontal or vertical from the points it’s connected. So my view is you cant change direction by using a different zone, as the guidance would be horizontal and vertical, if you could make L shape runs. I could be completely wrong and definitely a good future video. 😃
you have done the kitchen properly in my eyes but we were not allowed to run cables horizontally it had to be down up down up nightmare,people fitting kitchens could drill into the horizontal cables, not realising they were there, i would do it your way.show how hard it is to get the cables down upstairs when joists run opposite way?
Technically, they're in the zones, but it's not a practice I'd use. I don't like it. Yes, oval pipes straight in without rubber grommets. Thumbs up to that.
I have a question for you, how come you don't bring everything down from the the loft for the upstairs?? Sorry one more question if you did that couldn't you use tray from your fuse board to the loft ?? Nice and neat job then !! Good videos!! My understanding on zoning is that you it's vertical or horizontal from datum point with no deviation allowed !!! Keep up the great work!!!
Do you ever use those "sockitz" things to protect the boxes before plastering, or to leave them live whilst plastering? Used some for the first time the other week and it was very useful to me as the homeowner.
As with all interpretation with regs, its a little vague but 'either horizontally OR vertically' isn't the same as 'horizontally AND vertically'. 'Either' is the choice. English modal verbs include can/could, may/might, will/would, shall/should and must etc
Horizontally AND vertically has been used (or is going to be used) on at least 2 of these boxes. This is not allowed by 522.6.202. The solution to comply was to run the ring loop back into the wall angle zones then down or up in those zones and then Horizontally across to the next point. 🤔
From the floor level (not the finished floor level) I put back boxes 500mm from the floor and 400 in from any corner. For light switches I go in 11.5cm from the edge of the architrave so the face plate is 10cm exactly. (ask what architrave they are using 40mm - 70mm) all zones are used from crosses off back boxes. The first 150mm of every corner downstairs should belong to the plumber along with the first 2 floorboards in from every wall upstairs. Do not put cables there because that's for pipes. All cables should go below pipes / in between and never over the top. I put back boxes 1.2m to max from floor level based on the fact the finished floor will cover the 1.5cm for faceplate. The 16 line laser Lever from Amazon with 2 rechargeable batteries is incredible! Need a decent camera tripod also. I would not consider fitting back boxes without a laser level and also I like to fit back boxes before chasing out. Why? Because plans change and change again.. its best to route cables after I'm 100% the back boxes are all finished. I like your neat chasing. I tend to chase put too much and fill the hole with mortar mix. 4 sand / 1 cement /1 bonding plaster. That way you have wiggle room and can get it perfectly flush. Can't drill and screw it in until day after though wait for it to dry. However the plaster basically holds in place solid anyway. I learned all this the hard way doing a full house renovation and hiring an idiot electrician who couldn't even wire a plug I doubt! I had to re do everything he did basically! P.s. I use 35mm back boxes. Overkill? I don't think so. They leave loads of room and are really nice. Downlights 800mm from edge of wall in kitchen (because of cabinets.) And 600mm everywhere else. The distance between each downlight should be no less than half the height if the ceiling to floor ( Allow for variable change! May have a 30ft ceiling and that rule is out the window!)
Like all your ideas apart from the downlighters. Try putting them at 500mm because that comes out past the 300mm wall cabinets but not past the edge of the worktop. This then eliminates any shadowing on the worktop. My first row of D/L's are always 500 👍
@@neilpowell9312 Interesting to hear... 80cm is because of shadows created from the wall cabinets, brings them out past the point of being able to. I like that it would light up the worktops however. Downlights can still be moved for me I haven't done second fix yet. They have been a real pain upstairs. Reconfigured 3 times and always hit a joist in the loft! Working around the joists is a real art and owning a joist finder is well worth it to save filling holes in later. I learned that the hard way also.
@@E69apeTheMatrix420 I think the art of upstairs downlighters is down to more luck than judgement really. I have just converted a 4 bed house to downloghys upstairs. 3 out of 4 bedrooms I was lucky but the 4th room I hid a joist nearly 80% of the lights 🤦♂️
@@neilpowell9312 yep they are pure luck of your design if they will fit and extremely doubtful you can have all rooms uniform. 3 out of 4 is good. I'm doing a 3 bed detached.. currently put 2 x 6mm cables in for car chargers and contemplating drilling at the exact place of the home that goes into back of chargers (I don't have them yet just use downloaded instructions and dimensions) or come out at 750mm to black box and from there have clipped armoured cable going up into the bottom of the chargers. Also need my main electric box off the wall so I can get a 90A cable down through the cavity from consumer unit for power to garage. Electrics suck! I much prefer plumbing. Lol
Round conduit straight into metal back box no grommets required, chase down wall round, conduit chase in deep metal back box use builders stap to fix conduit to wall . No 90 degree just straight drops , much better job and can pull cables in and out at later stage if required
@@NBundyElectrical I’ll have to invest in one. Already lost a Hilti and Dewalt one. Love the Bosch green line, but seems like I’m forever changing batteries
Nicky shouldn't worry about the noise in the background especially when we can hear you over the noise what you should say to yourself that noise means money in the bank
I would condider putting a Heat detector/carbon monoxide alarm feed in the kitchen ceiling whilst doing the lights. Are you installing 2 seperate points for the hob and oven?
WC is a wine cooler? I thought it was "water closest", you know, somewhere you pee. Now it makes sense, my mother always told me not to drink the sparkling water.
It's fine. 2.5mm2 T+E is rated at 24A CCC. A ring of 2.5mm is allowed up to 32A because current flows through both legs, reducing the current seen in each leg and making sure no part of the cable gets more than 24A. But if your circuit is wired in 2.5mm2 then it doesn't need to be a ring for 20A circuit protection since the cable can carry that fine as a radial.
Although the cables are in the zones, unfortunately for you, it's only electricians that either know cable zones or are taught about them, so the way they are run there's a chance a dopey kitchen fitter will hit them, then claim they shouldn't be there. When cables don't come in together it makes the second fix a bit more awkward, also you will find it quicker to use board nails for fixing the oval to the walls, a few either side using the heads to hold it on the wall.
@@Callllum I take it you've never had a part P competent person assessment then because they would laugh you out of the property if you put diagonal cable runs in etc. Tell us what section 1.1 of Part P says
With that type of kitchen I would of just fitted the boxes and flexicon down to the floor, then wire it when it’s plastered running around at kick board level.
Don’t see any benefits in using the oval conduit…..neatly clipped cables or capping would be a better option and in my opinion would look neater. I bet the guy who dots and dabs the plasterboards on will be cursing the extra depth…..
One of the advantages I can see of using oval cnduit is keeping the cable away from the wall and plaster as the moisture in either/both when in close proximity to t&e can cause lower insulation resistance.
Guess the benefit is that you can rewire a drop in future without having to knock the plaster off? Like others said, I would have preferred the drops to be all vertical with cables under the floor as some of those 90 degree turns would be difficult to pull another cable through
I get the whole clipping and capping stuff. But I disagree with nick there. Clipping is quicker and easier. But let’s be honest if anyone is gonna drill through a cable there gonna just go through it anyway. What’s capping or oval conduit gonna do? It’s not gonna stop anyone from drilling through it
I sank a socket box into my landing, drilled straight through the metal capping that used to be for the old light switch ( previous owner must have moved it to it's current, more logical position) Didnt even notice with the SDS until I pulled the pieces out, so yeah, a bit of oval conduit is going to do nothing.
Nick Iam amazed that in the new 18th isolation can still be "immediately inaccessible" whilst in our Is10101 needs must satisfy the 2m "accessible rule. Gets under my skin with the slow harmonisation.
As far as I have been able to make out, there was a 6ft reg in the 14th regarding cooker isolation, that then went metric to 2m. The 15th had a 2m reg too, but there was nothing in the 16th or 17th as far as I could see. So in the 18th there is isolation, but could be in a cupboard or even back at the CU. The "old" 2m reg only appears in the OSG.
I know for a fact that other countries run conduit a little proud inside the back boxes as my dad recently bought a house in Spain as I’ve seen for myself and it needs a lot of tlc (including the electrics) which would be quite fun outside of the UK. I like the method you’ve shown in this video and I am sure knowing you did some clean cuts and smoothed out the ends! F in the chat if Dave roasts the living shite out of you though!!
Putting a ring in for the kitchen is hardly future proofing. 4mm radial would be far better, can still put it on 32a if needed and when AFDDs become mainstream you wont have to try and split the ring in order for them to work
@@codenamenel cause its electricity, it follows path of least resistance. In a radial this results in an arc to bridge the gap, so the AFDD trips. In a ring, the path of least resistance is to go the long way round the circuit,resulting in no ark, or at least not enough arcing to trigger the AFDD
@@codenamenel honestly, it's just that rings are so ingrained in domestic guys that itll take something like AFDDS being mandatory and becoming knowledgeable about them to get rid of them. I've worked commercial for years and if I even suggested a ring for something I'd be shot or fired
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/nbundyelectrical
Check out my new Amazon store
Ever thought of doing Merch? Creating an actual cap the same as the badge you have (of a cap with a bolt on it) would be amazing. Just a thought :)
Can you wire a ring with a 20 amp ??
What’s the little pocket light you use?
Oh I second the merch store, I’d happily kit myself out.
@@makg4655 🔥🔥🔥
Hello Nick, from old spark from the 60's, Nice clear well explained commentary. I'm afraid I'm a bit of a Luddite, I prefer the old way I was taught as an apprentice of only wiring vertically unless absolutely necessary, the reasoning behind that line of thought was if anyone installed a wall cupboard or whatever and screwed through the cable a simple junction box under floorboard bypassing the damage cable and only affecting one socket if kitchen was tiled, I feel uncomfortable seeing horizontal cable even though nothing wrong it just doesn't feel right. BTW great video look foreward to them.
Peter.
Two things I don't like isolation switches inside cupboards , they should be visible Incase of an emergency, plus I would install an isolation switch above worktops for all appliances below worktops
Pisses the tilers off 😉
Personally I hate spurs with a vengeance. Less is more in my book.
I am old school and like to see all my runs dropping vertically except where not possible like beneath the window. Uses more cable I know. I would still rather still use capping to cover the cables rather than the oval conduit, personal choice. Nowadays I would think I would more likely just run in radial circuits instead of using ring circuits.
I prefer oval because you can pull the cable out and replace without it getting ruined on the bricks behind. However I slip in some 6mm cable then use a heatgun to soften the plastic and bend to shape if the run is not straight.
I like oval, and drop down then can see cable under plinths and fish up where required, try and keep from corners in kitchen clear for wall cupboard mounting
Why not use flexible conduit between sockets and stretch relief them inside the box. Finish the flex conduit inside the consumer unit and pull normal wires???
MUCH EASIER
Can actually rewire without tearing up walls, floors, cealings.
I run conduit into the boxes behind dry lining like you’ve done, only I use 16mm oval conduit which fits nicely into the 20mm knockouts and accepts 2.5mm T&E no problem.
In NI we would use very little oval conduit anymore. Walls are tracked and round conduit is used. Boxes are cemented in also, add some bonding plaster to the mix so it sets quicker. Would also try to leave as little runs across the walls as kitchen fittters and plumbers love drilling into them.
I like the oval conduit straight into the back boxes instead of open grommets ... You're right about future proofing too 35mm boxes are my preference ... Not too sure on the cable routing, I much prefer straight up and down drops from points but each to their own ... Great videos Nick I really enjoy watching these 👍🏼
What ties are they for the oval conduit against the walls?
@@daviddurnan3849 ... Looks like all-round band mate
@@daviddurnan3849 its all round band
Nice idea but you might struggle to get certain accessories into those back boxes if you have too much conduit poking through...
Yeah true need to be careful with it 👍
Brilliant job! I’ve got a question, why there’s no point for isolation for washing machine, cooker and other appliances? 🤔
Capping, grommets and vertical drops or straight horizontal runs for me too. Technically what you're doing is correct but it sort of doesn't feel right and is more labour intensive. Bring the legs out behind the plinths with a bit of play and adding a spur or other mod is pretty simple including pulling a new cable through where it's been damaged. Kitchen fitters, plasterers and plumbers don't give a f#$k in my experience, so I don't risk leaving them to follow prescribed zones. Also, I don't like anything in my back boxes at all 'cause USBs and flat plates take up every single spare mm. Just my experience mate 👍
My assumption is that a prescribed zone is only determined by a *visible* accessory, so if an accessory is only revealed by opening a cupboard and pulling out its contents, yanking out an integrated d/w or removing pan drawers then it can't legitimately determine a pz for that wall.
If the cables are all run behind kitchen cabinets (as I presume these are) then I don't think it's a problem (since no-one should be drilling through the back of a kitchen cabinet without checking what's behind it first); if the 'midi' height socket (second in from the corner on the long wall) is visible then I would have run the cable horizontally, only dropping down to the low level once it disappears behind the cabinets (probably just above the socket in the sink unit to make the run sensible). All if possible of course, always lots of potential obstructions to best practice when out in the real world!
Another great video Nick, Not sure about anyone else when I say this but don't worry about the background noise I can still hear you perfectly, stressing your self out over nothing it's no mither really.
Wish all kitchen plans were like the Wren ones. So handy.
I've always brought the conduit into the boxes that way. On a vertical drop it makes it easier to pull another cable in if you ever need to 😀
I always lazer to the center of the box, just in case I haven't noticed if a box isn't parallel. Also always run conduit into boxes, rarely use grommets but that said in kitchens I always do vertical drops from socket to socket and hide the cables behind the back of the unit legs. I tend to find if there's ever an issue with wiring it's normally a kitchen after a home owner has swapped socket fronts and it just makes pulling in new cable a doddle.
You’re smashing out the content Nick. 👏
I would avoid the long horizontal low level run in the kitchen. I'd rather run it under the base units through flex con
May I suggest using a small piece of plaster board for marking out (acts like white chalk) much better to see where things are going.
I find it easier when you laser the centre of the knock out box
Yeah, I do the same, use the screw holes and run the laser through them. Works for going from conduit to surface boxes.
Nick, since the kitchen was bare and you were starting with a blank canvas.... Did you consider a single location for isolation using a grid switch for all the appliances? That's what I favour these days. I'm not a fan of isolation in cupboards myself.
Don’t really like grid switched to be honest
Nor me, right pain in the backside grid switches, soo 70s
Good shout doing it in grid but still sometimes with integrated appliances with eff all room behind you got no option but to install a socket inside the unit that is nearest. I've noticed the flex on such appliances are longer than they used to which is great when the kitchen designer has slapped a fridge and freezer side by side 🤦♂️
I like the old "tape the finger up" 🤣🤣
Comedy. 🤣
I dont think for me that really meets regs but having done lots on of kitchens myself i know what they’re re like.
Also i put isolation in cupboards like most electrcians do nowadays and dont see a problem with it.customers hate isolators on show
Hey Nick, can you clarify as I don't see a socket for fridge/freezer, is it feeding from socket ring or from oven feed?
Regarding grommet for backbox, I think grommet would be better for neater look and presentation than poking conduit a bit. 👍🙂
I always run f/f on its own radial
Interesting First Aid kit. I've done the same myself with insulating tape and a bit of kitchen roll etc underneath to help absorb any blood! If you use blue tape, you're also ok as regards food safety!
One question - I know they stopped the practice of fixing electrics inside kitchen cabinets in the past. Has this now been changed again? (I'm not fully up to date with regs as I no longer install.
Your method will make a very tidy job but I was just wondering, since the regs sometimes make a tidy job very difficult!
Why the ring circuit ? Surely radial for kitchen with 4mm ?
Sitting the boxes deeper than necessary when entering a back box tubing will help massively, with my new Modern day problem....USB sockets! Good job gentlemen.
USB sockets suck, these days phones are all fast charge or wireless and 2 or 3 amps in the back of sockets are completely useless. So I semi concealed proper fast charge hub beside kitchen counter lights and another in bedroom dresser.
Probably within zones, but you would try not to enter a box vertically and then exit out of the side if you didn't need to, you would just keep vertical runs so cables are in one zone axis rather than two, not always possible, but looks like it is in that instance, not the way I would do it, but still in the zones
I always put duct tape over my boxes before the muck spreader comes in, it makes it easy for them and clean n easy for me.
Not to keen on the conduit into the back box. Personally I butt the conduit up to the back box then use an open gromit. Nice to try different things though. Keep up the good work 👍
Completely legal & actually a lot better than I’m seeing in most places but, there are better methods.
In kitchens, I tend to put the drops of the rings to each island on first fix, then use trunking & mini drops up for second fix.
Always really enjoy the videos. With regards to zones. In the building regs it says horizontal or vertical from the points it’s connected.
So my view is you cant change direction by using a different zone, as the guidance would be horizontal and vertical, if you could make L shape runs.
I could be completely wrong and definitely a good future video. 😃
you have done the kitchen properly in my eyes but we were not allowed to run cables horizontally it had to be down up down up nightmare,people fitting kitchens could drill into the horizontal cables, not realising they were there, i would do it your way.show how hard it is to get the cables down upstairs when joists run opposite way?
I k looks nice but , I prefer to do drops then , others “trades “ are normally used to , Jurassic sparks
Technically, they're in the zones, but it's not a practice I'd use. I don't like it.
Yes, oval pipes straight in without rubber grommets. Thumbs up to that.
Just don’t push the conduit in too far, some USB sockets take up pretty much every bit of space in a box.
Have you thought about using Wallaces instead of Gromits mate?
I have a question for you, how come you don't bring everything down from the the loft for the upstairs?? Sorry one more question if you did that couldn't you use tray from your fuse board to the loft ?? Nice and neat job then !! Good videos!! My understanding on zoning is that you it's vertical or horizontal from datum point with no deviation allowed !!! Keep up the great work!!!
20mm round conduit into the back boxes and tracked into the wall
Best thing for marking out on brick is chalk
French chalk and holder ;)
Prescribed zones include internal corners too.
Can't you use that copex conduit instead? Then you can also rewire the cable at some point.
Oval conduit a nice touch to the installation
Dont you need fused switches for dishwasher hob ignition etc?
Great job as usual lads but be carful some USB sockets might not fit in the back boxes if you’ve got the conduit stuck through the sides
Do you ever use those "sockitz" things to protect the boxes before plastering, or to leave them live whilst plastering? Used some for the first time the other week and it was very useful to me as the homeowner.
You should’ve watched Green Hawk Construction’s UA-cam last night, the young apprentice on there did exactly the same thing to his finger.
As with all interpretation with regs, its a little vague but 'either horizontally OR vertically' isn't the same as 'horizontally AND vertically'. 'Either' is the choice. English modal verbs include can/could, may/might, will/would, shall/should and must etc
Horizontally AND vertically has been used (or is going to be used) on at least 2 of these boxes. This is not allowed by 522.6.202. The solution to comply was to run the ring loop back into the wall angle zones then down or up in those zones and then Horizontally across to the next point. 🤔
From the floor level (not the finished floor level) I put back boxes 500mm from the floor and 400 in from any corner. For light switches I go in 11.5cm from the edge of the architrave so the face plate is 10cm exactly. (ask what architrave they are using 40mm - 70mm) all zones are used from crosses off back boxes. The first 150mm of every corner downstairs should belong to the plumber along with the first 2 floorboards in from every wall upstairs. Do not put cables there because that's for pipes. All cables should go below pipes / in between and never over the top.
I put back boxes 1.2m to max from floor level based on the fact the finished floor will cover the 1.5cm for faceplate. The 16 line laser Lever from Amazon with 2 rechargeable batteries is incredible! Need a decent camera tripod also. I would not consider fitting back boxes without a laser level and also I like to fit back boxes before chasing out. Why? Because plans change and change again.. its best to route cables after I'm 100% the back boxes are all finished. I like your neat chasing. I tend to chase put too much and fill the hole with mortar mix. 4 sand / 1 cement /1 bonding plaster. That way you have wiggle room and can get it perfectly flush. Can't drill and screw it in until day after though wait for it to dry. However the plaster basically holds in place solid anyway. I learned all this the hard way doing a full house renovation and hiring an idiot electrician who couldn't even wire a plug I doubt! I had to re do everything he did basically! P.s. I use 35mm back boxes. Overkill? I don't think so. They leave loads of room and are really nice. Downlights 800mm from edge of wall in kitchen (because of cabinets.) And 600mm everywhere else. The distance between each downlight should be no less than half the height if the ceiling to floor ( Allow for variable change! May have a 30ft ceiling and that rule is out the window!)
Like all your ideas apart from the downlighters. Try putting them at 500mm because that comes out past the 300mm wall cabinets but not past the edge of the worktop. This then eliminates any shadowing on the worktop. My first row of D/L's are always 500 👍
@@neilpowell9312 Interesting to hear... 80cm is because of shadows created from the wall cabinets, brings them out past the point of being able to. I like that it would light up the worktops however. Downlights can still be moved for me I haven't done second fix yet. They have been a real pain upstairs. Reconfigured 3 times and always hit a joist in the loft! Working around the joists is a real art and owning a joist finder is well worth it to save filling holes in later. I learned that the hard way also.
@@E69apeTheMatrix420 I think the art of upstairs downlighters is down to more luck than judgement really. I have just converted a 4 bed house to downloghys upstairs. 3 out of 4 bedrooms I was lucky but the 4th room I hid a joist nearly 80% of the lights 🤦♂️
@@neilpowell9312 yep they are pure luck of your design if they will fit and extremely doubtful you can have all rooms uniform. 3 out of 4 is good. I'm doing a 3 bed detached.. currently put 2 x 6mm cables in for car chargers and contemplating drilling at the exact place of the home that goes into back of chargers (I don't have them yet just use downloaded instructions and dimensions) or come out at 750mm to black box and from there have clipped armoured cable going up into the bottom of the chargers. Also need my main electric box off the wall so I can get a 90A cable down through the cavity from consumer unit for power to garage. Electrics suck! I much prefer plumbing. Lol
What size do you set your backboxes at above the worktop? I usually do 1070mm to the bottom from the floor.
Shout out to me for getting bullied 😂😂😂😂 thanks nick legend
Also have a look at the tracer clog free markers for marking on the brick 🤙
How are you getting on with the Unilite RL-5250 lantern?
Round conduit straight into metal back box no grommets required, chase down wall round, conduit chase in deep metal back box use builders stap to fix conduit to wall .
No 90 degree just straight drops , much better job and can pull cables in and out at later stage if required
Unbelievable how quick the Bosch lasers go through batteries
Just brought the new one with the 12v rechargeable batteries 🙌
@@NBundyElectrical I’ll have to invest in one. Already lost a Hilti and Dewalt one. Love the Bosch green line, but seems like I’m forever changing batteries
Whatever makes life easy in this day and age, as long is it complies and the client is happy with power point locations happy days 🤟
Think of it this way, 10% the runs are IAW regs, 90% does the kitchen fitter know where your runs are!
How do you squeeze the 20mm oval conduit in some of the 20mm back boxes? Are you using Dewalts Wall dog screws for the the builders band?
I take it that the walls are being bonded and plastered?
No need to chase the back boxes in if the walls are being dog and dabbed.
You should’ve watched greenhawks vid about that all round band his apprentice could’ve warned you
Nicky shouldn't worry about the noise in the background especially when we can hear you over the noise what you should say to yourself that noise means money in the bank
I would condider putting a Heat detector/carbon monoxide alarm feed in the kitchen ceiling whilst doing the lights.
Are you installing 2 seperate points for the hob and oven?
It’s in the next video mate 👍
Why radials and not rings throughout?
why waste cable and time installing a ring ?
Think I paid £280 for the green Bosch laser that takes 12v batteries. They last all day and they’re only 2amp. Worth it IMO
Looking good, always nice to future proof gets you out of trouble later, 35mm boxes and oval works well nice one dude….
WC is a wine cooler? I thought it was "water closest", you know, somewhere you pee. Now it makes sense, my mother always told me not to drink the sparkling water.
What do you have your laser mounted to?
Is that a rode mic on the gopro?
你好，想請問是否upVC直徑的你們小用的？
Did you drop the feed in for the fridge and freezer?
Yes mate
🤔 What wrong with vertical drops?
I like use the metal capping good stuff
Is it ok to use a 20amp for a ring circuit? I know it’s ment to be 32 amp but is it ok for 20A . Is there any ref that applies to it being wrong ?
It's fine. 2.5mm2 T+E is rated at 24A CCC. A ring of 2.5mm is allowed up to 32A because current flows through both legs, reducing the current seen in each leg and making sure no part of the cable gets more than 24A. But if your circuit is wired in 2.5mm2 then it doesn't need to be a ring for 20A circuit protection since the cable can carry that fine as a radial.
Although the cables are in the zones, unfortunately for you, it's only electricians that either know cable zones or are taught about them, so the way they are run there's a chance a dopey kitchen fitter will hit them, then claim they shouldn't be there.
When cables don't come in together it makes the second fix a bit more awkward, also you will find it quicker to use board nails for fixing the oval to the walls, a few either side using the heads to hold it on the wall.
We have to do it properly and just hope that people follow suit mate
@callum docherty certainly does make a difference, if you don’t follow the zones and cables get damaged then your the one fixing them free of charge.
@callum docherty 🙄
@@Callllum zones are building regs, they're mandatory
@@Callllum I take it you've never had a part P competent person assessment then because they would laugh you out of the property if you put diagonal cable runs in etc.
Tell us what section 1.1 of Part P says
With that type of kitchen I would of just fitted the boxes and flexicon down to the floor, then wire it when it’s plastered running around at kick board level.
'have'...
@@ef7480 he's a have not.
Fcuk mee teh grammar polcie r oout agine
came for a bundy video and had to watch an advert for Boundary with Jordan of Artisan :D
I can only apologise
lmao
It’s really dark, he says - standing between the window and the guys working so blocking the only available like there is. Doh!
Hard drive magnets for finding joists is 👌
Link or website to your hoodie ?
Pattress boxes are surface where I come from?
Me too 😂
If you used flexi conduit 😂 between the boxes, it would be quicker and may even be able to pull new cable thru it.
Coming soon 👀
@@NBundyElectrical See how much abuse you get 😱
Can’t wait 😅
Other option is to slip some 6mm cable in heat with a hot air gun till soft and bend. The 6mm cable is to act like a pipe spring. Works a treat
I love flexi, don't get the hate.
Hello.nick can you please give your settings for gopro the mode you use
Thnks alot a have gopro 9 and yours vedios has best quality 👌 👍 👏
They are just standard settings mate, linear, 2.7K
@@NBundyElectrical 60 fps ?
thnks pro you are the best
Yes mate
Last question the mic 🎤 is the rode videomic go ?
Yes mate
Not sure plasterer would be to happy about amount of muck to cover tge oval tubing
Don’t see any benefits in using the oval conduit…..neatly clipped cables or capping would be a better option and in my opinion would look neater. I bet the guy who dots and dabs the plasterboards on will be cursing the extra depth…..
One of the advantages I can see of using oval cnduit is keeping the cable away from the wall and plaster as the moisture in either/both when in close proximity to t&e can cause lower insulation resistance.
Guess the benefit is that you can rewire a drop in future without having to knock the plaster off? Like others said, I would have preferred the drops to be all vertical with cables under the floor as some of those 90 degree turns would be difficult to pull another cable through
I get the whole clipping and capping stuff. But I disagree with nick there. Clipping is quicker and easier. But let’s be honest if anyone is gonna drill through a cable there gonna just go through it anyway. What’s capping or oval conduit gonna do? It’s not gonna stop anyone from drilling through it
I sank a socket box into my landing, drilled straight through the metal capping that used to be for the old light switch ( previous owner must have moved it to it's current, more logical position)
Didnt even notice with the SDS until I pulled the pieces out, so yeah, a bit of oval conduit is going to do nothing.
Makes it possible to pull a new cable through without chopping out the plaster…
@@lmuk17 But probably not if there is a right angle between boxes - sort of defeats the point of using conduit.
Absolutely Fine, top job, pub time!
Oven next to the fridge freezer, Were the kitchen designers drunk
Thomas Nagy will have a go at you for wiring rings in 2021 haha
The original reason for rings was to save copper. That is still bang on in 2021 probably more so than in 1945.
@@jonathanbuzzard6648 -Exactly. Similar to Gold....
Do you not wire in Rings anymore ?
Won't the oval conduit in the metal boxes get in the way of the sockets /spurs?
Brother, I want to come to your country
Might be tricky getting socket faces on with oval conduit Pocking threw back boxes?
Only tried to leave a couple of mm , so hopefully not 👌
@@NBundyElectrical 🙏
@@NBundyElectrical love the vids dude.
Keep up the good work🤜
@@edglue6138 thanks dude 💪
Where's your laser level stand from pal, been looking for a decent one for a while.
It’s in my Amazon store dude 👍
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/nbundyelectrical
Cheers pal 👌🏼
Genuis video. Tips tips and tips. !!!!
Great videos educational as always 👌
From just looking at the thumbnail I'll say it is legal.
Great video 😎
Nice one nick 👍👍
Go pro gang 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Nick Iam amazed that in the new 18th isolation can still be "immediately inaccessible" whilst in our Is10101 needs must satisfy the 2m "accessible rule. Gets under my skin with the slow harmonisation.
As far as I have been able to make out, there was a 6ft reg in the 14th regarding cooker isolation, that then went metric to 2m. The 15th had a 2m reg too, but there was nothing in the 16th or 17th as far as I could see. So in the 18th there is isolation, but could be in a cupboard or even back at the CU. The "old" 2m reg only appears in the OSG.
I know for a fact that other countries run conduit a little proud inside the back boxes as my dad recently bought a house in Spain as I’ve seen for myself and it needs a lot of tlc (including the electrics) which would be quite fun outside of the UK. I like the method you’ve shown in this video and I am sure knowing you did some clean cuts and smoothed out the ends! F in the chat if Dave roasts the living shite out of you though!!
Needs more flex
Putting a ring in for the kitchen is hardly future proofing. 4mm radial would be far better, can still put it on 32a if needed and when AFDDs become mainstream you wont have to try and split the ring in order for them to work
That's interesting, why don't AFDD's work with a ring ?
@@codenamenel cause its electricity, it follows path of least resistance. In a radial this results in an arc to bridge the gap, so the AFDD trips.
In a ring, the path of least resistance is to go the long way round the circuit,resulting in no ark, or at least not enough arcing to trigger the AFDD
@@darylsavage119 I hadn't thought of that good point, one more nail in the coffin of ring circuits
@@codenamenel honestly, it's just that rings are so ingrained in domestic guys that itll take something like AFDDS being mandatory and becoming knowledgeable about them to get rid of them.
I've worked commercial for years and if I even suggested a ring for something I'd be shot or fired
I agree, I don’t put rings in anymore. So that when AFDDs are used there are no issues
Bundy 25 👍