Thank you so much for making this a simple procedure. I watched several different videos. Till I found. Thank you. Somebody that just get straight to the point. As too many people out there that like to listen to themselves talk😊
Great video; especially for new individuals to reloading like myself. I have had the same problems with polymer coated bullets and did not know how to fix that problem until now. Thank you so much for sharing your setup tips... God Bless!!!
This is where i am right now. 50 jacketed and 50 hi tek coated. My first time reloading in a long time. My press is even similar to yours. Very odd. I guess i need one of those blocks to check my rounds when I'm finished crimping. Thanks for this. the answer to a very specific question I had I'm subbing right now RR. Really, thanks a lot.
Love the "dummy round". I have always used a "live round" to "preset my bullet seating die". I take a "crimped" round and PUSH the round with bullet facing a table and PUSH! If it moves in, I crimp a little bit more. I also check my loaded rounds with a "Sheridan test die" that is OPEN so I can SEE how the rounds fit. Sheridan also sells "closed test dies".
Very good video…. I do use a Lee FCD but still appreciate this video. The comment on case length is also something I’ve considered. I have actually loaded 9mm without even crimping using just case tension and never had any issues with function or bullet set-back.
Yep! And when your loading w/e brass you happen to come across. It's nothing to have 5 or 6 diff headstamps esp in 9. WIN, FC, A USA, RP , PMC, PPU Blazer, WIN NATO, Browning etc etc.
Very helpful info! Just set up dies for 9mm and typically trial/error process to get seating and crimp just right. Adjust one and the other changes. This would SO speed up and is so simple. Thanks & subbed!
People are just too stuck on using a 4-die set over a 3-die set not realizing the only difference is the fourth die is a Crimp die so you don’t have to do both in the 3rd die which you are going to show you can! Hope that helps!?
Considering I have a 6 stage progressive press, I find it easier to just let the seating die establish the bullet height and let the Lee factory crimp die finish it off, though if I had a single stage press I would probably do it this way, I reload a lot of cast bullets (powdercoated) and they don't like the seat/crimp die combo, which is why I got the Lee factory crimp die in the first place so I don't have to run them twice.
One important note. Your cases should ALL be trimmed to the same length. If you have a case that is too long you will start the crimp too soon and it will be too deep. If the case is too short you will get a very weak or possibly no crimp at all.
...I always make dummy round (no primer/powder) for future reference if I reset the dies for whatever reason...I electropencil the projectile type on the case...
There was an instance where I did find the Lee factory crimp die useful, but they’re mostly unnecessary. In a way, the Lee die can encourage bad loading techniques. Without it, people are forced to do everything properly.
Hello!! Thanks for watching! I always seat and crimp separately with cast bullets. Otherwise I always manage to shave a little of the coating off and expose the lead.
@@costantinoandruzzi2219 I crimp in a separate step for cast, but if you can do it in one step without shaving lead off the bullet then that is fine to do.
@@redneckreloader Thanks man! I've just subscribed to your channel, there are useful tutorials like the one about reloading 7.62x39mm Russian, a caliber I've lately started shooting with my Simonov SKS!
Hi from Spain! I’ve just set my RCBS dies for 9mm reload following your video and still with problems with cartidge crimp. I’m using a Hornady 9mm checker (moreless like your Lyman checker) and few bullets fits perfectly and others don’t fits at all. The ones that don’t work are like “domed” and I’m not able to fix that! I’m using brasses take from my Shooting range. I really don’t know where the problem can be so I’ll appreciate any help. Kind regards
Do you like that Lyman case gauge checker? I have it in my amazon cart but I have seen some bad reviews of it. But I don't really want to buy the individual ones at about $20 each. I'm a casual reloader about like you, I would guess.
Newbie, finally got ahold of some primers and got everything up to the seating / crimping (9mm) at which point the bullets started jamming into the die. I have followed every video I can find but don’t see anyone else having the same issue. Lee carbide (3) set. Berry 9mm bullets, Lee hand press. Any thoughts?
Hmmm, I’ve got a couple of ideas, but I’m not 💯 clear on what you mean by jamming into the die. Could you send me a picture or two? You can email me at mikeicurn@gmail.com
I'm having a problem where after crimp the bullet head can be rotated if I grip it with my teeth and turn the case. I.E it's crimping but the head can still turn. Why do you think I'm doing wrong
It sounds like a problem with resizing. The crimp really does little to hold the bullet still. It’s really just taking the bell back out of the case mouth. The bullet should fit very snug in the case, whether it’s crimped or not. Go back to your first die. Make sure your resizing die is screwed in until it touches the shell holder. It sounds like the die is not resizing the brass back down after it’s been fired.
So I took your advice and went back to the resizing die. Turns out I did not have it set right. So you where spot on, on that point. Now when I seat the head at the right COL I get a much better hold on the head. I can no longer rotate the head with my fingers, however if I grip the head with my teeth I still get movement. And if I crimp it really tight then it just looses up even worst. Like an opposite effect.
You failed to mention case length and trimming. This is critical to consistent crimping, particularly in the one-step process, using range or previously fired brass. The small variances in case length can range from cases receiving no crimp at all, to deformed cartridges unable to chamber. Been handloading for over thirty years. That's the first thing I check.
this guy knows what he's talkin about. this is the simplest way to do it.👍👍👍
Excellent explanation of a confusing process for a newbie like me. Thank you!!!
Made the light come on in this old brain. Thank You!
This video explained one of my biggest frustrations with loading Hitec coated 9mm in a very short amount of time!! Thank you very much!!!
Love this video. Simple, easy, no fluff. I've come back to it multiple times. Thanks so much!
Hands down the best video showing how set the two steps in one.
Thank you, I really appreciate you.
Thanks for this video. I was accosted today at the gun store by a guy cause I told him I didn’t buy the Lee factory crimp die for 9mm.
😂
I appreciate the tips.. Always bought a crimper and didn't know I already had one! Just back it off and keep going
You’re welcome! Thanks for the support.
Thank you so much for making this a simple procedure. I watched several different videos. Till I found. Thank you. Somebody that just get straight to the point. As too many people out there that like to listen to themselves talk😊
But one is a taper and one is not
Great video; especially for new individuals to reloading like myself. I have had the same problems with polymer coated bullets and did not know how to fix that problem until now. Thank you so much for sharing your setup tips... God Bless!!!
Thank you so much! God bless you!
Apreciate the video.
This is where i am right now. 50 jacketed and 50 hi tek coated. My first time reloading in a long time. My press is even similar to yours. Very odd. I guess i need one of those blocks to check my rounds when I'm finished crimping. Thanks for this. the answer to a very specific question I had I'm subbing right now RR. Really, thanks a lot.
Nice video, much appreciated. Will have to watch several more times before I have it down.
Love the "dummy round". I have always used a "live round" to "preset my bullet seating die". I take a "crimped" round and PUSH the round with bullet facing a table and PUSH! If it moves in, I crimp a little bit more. I also check my loaded rounds with a "Sheridan test die" that is OPEN so I can SEE how the rounds fit. Sheridan also sells "closed test dies".
This was a Big help, thanks for the info!
Thank you for the support. I'm glad you found it useful!!
Very good video…. I do use a Lee FCD but still appreciate this video. The comment on case length is also something I’ve considered. I have actually loaded 9mm without even crimping using just case tension and never had any issues with function or bullet set-back.
Me too.
Problem with the seat/crimp one step is the cases all have to be the same length (+ or - .001" max) or this will over/under crimp the cartridge.
Yep! And when your loading w/e brass you happen to come across. It's nothing to have 5 or 6 diff headstamps esp in 9. WIN, FC, A USA, RP , PMC, PPU Blazer, WIN NATO, Browning etc etc.
Ty for the procedure, very useful rather than the one we got usually ("down til it touch the Sh then back two turn...").
Very helpful info! Just set up dies for 9mm and typically trial/error process to get seating and crimp just right. Adjust one and the other changes. This would SO speed up and is so simple. Thanks & subbed!
Thanks for everything !
People are just too stuck on using a 4-die set over a 3-die set not realizing the only difference is the fourth die is a Crimp die so you don’t have to do both in the 3rd die which you are going to show you can! Hope that helps!?
I’m a crimping and seating separately guy.
I have a lot fewer problems that way!
Considering I have a 6 stage progressive press, I find it easier to just let the seating die establish the bullet height and let the Lee factory crimp die finish it off, though if I had a single stage press I would probably do it this way, I reload a lot of cast bullets (powdercoated) and they don't like the seat/crimp die combo, which is why I got the Lee factory crimp die in the first place so I don't have to run them twice.
Thank you 😊
One important note. Your cases should ALL be trimmed to the same length. If you have a case that is too long you will start the crimp too soon and it will be too deep. If the case is too short you will get a very weak or possibly no crimp at all.
Omg thank you!
I am a huge fan of the Lee Carbine factory crimp. It is the best and I have loaded for years.
Best video I’ve seen so far!! If your other videos explain as well as this one did you have a New sub for sure!! 🤙🏻
Thank you! I really appreciate that!
Awesome video thanx for the content...helped a lot👍👍🤙🤙🤙
Thanks.
Excellent presentation.
New to reloading and plain & simple is exactly what I’m looking for.
Liked Sub’d Shared
Thank you!
Thanks!
...I always make dummy round (no primer/powder) for future reference if I reset the dies for whatever reason...I electropencil the projectile type on the case...
Interesting press also! Haven’t seen one of those yet.
That an antique!!
There was an instance where I did find the Lee factory crimp die useful, but they’re mostly unnecessary. In a way, the Lee die can encourage bad loading techniques. Without it, people are forced to do everything properly.
Great explanation. Thanks.
Nice video. Still like doing crimping in a separate step. Love that funky press. What brand is it?
That is a Bair press. They went out of business in the 80’s. It’s a good, solid press.
Thanks again.
Great video 👍👍
Thank you!
Thank you
Good video . And sub'd . thank you . :)
Great learning videos thanks a lot the Hornady instructions are kind of confusing
What's the process with cast bullets? One step or two? Thanks a lot and hi from Italy.
Hello!! Thanks for watching! I always seat and crimp separately with cast bullets. Otherwise I always manage to shave a little of the coating off and expose the lead.
@@redneckreloader Yet, if I use cast uncoated bullets, I guess I can do it all in one step only. I did try, and the final result seems to be fine...
@@costantinoandruzzi2219 I crimp in a separate step for cast, but if you can do it in one step without shaving lead off the bullet then that is fine to do.
@@redneckreloader Thanks man! I've just subscribed to your channel, there are useful tutorials like the one about reloading 7.62x39mm Russian, a caliber I've lately started shooting with my Simonov SKS!
Hi from Spain! I’ve just set my RCBS dies for 9mm reload following your video and still with problems with cartidge crimp.
I’m using a Hornady 9mm checker (moreless like your Lyman checker) and few bullets fits perfectly and others don’t fits at all. The ones that don’t work are like “domed” and I’m not able to fix that!
I’m using brasses take from my Shooting range.
I really don’t know where the problem can be so I’ll appreciate any help.
Kind regards
Do you like that Lyman case gauge checker? I have it in my amazon cart but I have seen some bad reviews of it. But I don't really want to buy the individual ones at about $20 each. I'm a casual reloader about like you, I would guess.
Yes, I like it a lot. It’s very handy to keep at my bench and it seems to be pretty close to my guns
major question: I did what he said and the crimp on my round now looks like ribs along the top of the casing near the round. What is that/??
Newbie, finally got ahold of some primers and got everything up to the seating / crimping (9mm) at which point the bullets started jamming into the die. I have followed every video I can find but don’t see anyone else having the same issue. Lee carbide (3) set. Berry 9mm bullets, Lee hand press. Any thoughts?
Hmmm, I’ve got a couple of ideas, but I’m not 💯 clear on what you mean by jamming into the die. Could you send me a picture or two? You can email me at mikeicurn@gmail.com
Teach me Obi-wan…
I find my COL will change +/- .005 using seating the same bullets, all things being the same. Do you have a +/- COL with your method?
Couldn’t you use a factory round instead of a dummy round?
Absolutely, I’ve done that many times as long as the bullets are similar
I'm having a problem where after crimp the bullet head can be rotated if I grip it with my teeth and turn the case. I.E it's crimping but the head can still turn. Why do you think I'm doing wrong
It sounds like a problem with resizing. The crimp really does little to hold the bullet still. It’s really just taking the bell back out of the case mouth. The bullet should fit very snug in the case, whether it’s crimped or not. Go back to your first die. Make sure your resizing die is screwed in until it touches the shell holder. It sounds like the die is not resizing the brass back down after it’s been fired.
So I took your advice and went back to the resizing die. Turns out I did not have it set right. So you where spot on, on that point.
Now when I seat the head at the right COL I get a much better hold on the head. I can no longer rotate the head with my fingers, however if I grip the head with my teeth I still get movement.
And if I crimp it really tight then it just looses up even worst. Like an opposite effect.
None of this crimped at all for my .44Mag, even after violently slamming a dummy round into the die, no crimp.
You failed to mention case length and trimming. This is critical to consistent crimping, particularly in the one-step process, using range or previously fired brass.
The small variances in case length can range from cases receiving no crimp at all, to deformed cartridges unable to chamber. Been handloading for over thirty years. That's the first thing I check.
I’m NOT impressed with the Lee crimper.