Відео

Why make such a complicated scale?

great video

I Love the Lee Hand Press

The case must be expanded while empty with no powder in it. If powder is in it it will cause case bulging. Because you are trying to compress air. This will deform the case every time. The very last 2 steps must be add powderand seat the bullet. Then you will have a perfect case every time.

merci de France

I really like your channel, you seem to be paralleling my reloading path. it's strange how often you answer a question I have about gear or processes. Hope all goes well for you. Thanks RR.

Hi all, I noticed that the tungsten bushing of the 38/357 factory crimp is wider than the one of the sizer die, but is this normal? Thanks.

Lee dipper sets deserve a place in every reloading room. I have used them for almost all my reloading, and get accurate results. For instance, a 5-shot ragged hole in .308, and 5/8-in groups with 30-06. I just pick a mid-range load with the powder and bullet weight used (never near max), load and shoot. To get charge weights with powders not listed in the charge weight reference card, just throw a few charges into a scale and record the results. I use either 5 or 10 charges together and average them for an accurate reading, then record the results. I have made custom dippers out of spent 9mm cases. Shorten the case with a sander and test charge weights with a scale until you get the one you want (throw ten charges together and average them, super accurate method). For instance, with Bullseye I have made 3.8 gr and 4.3 gr. dippers. Use a paper clip twisted around the extractor groove for use as a handle, and you're good to go.

People push the Lee factory crimp dies because they perform the best crimps possible. As they do so 100% of the time without shaving the bullets or buckling the cases. And a big plus is when switching to a bullet that is either longer or shorter one does not have to upset the crimp setting to get the bullet adjusted to its depth. All one has to do is adjust the seating die and the crimp is still good to go. Get a seating die with a micrometer on it and one can easily go back and forth between different bullets in seconds (not minutes).

I just purchased a Creality 3 I’m going to make reloading trays

Lee crimping dies are the only way to fly . That's one of areas they beat all other die makers in.

Do you need primer hole brush?

Great review. Thanks.

Great video, Thanks a lot.

Good information, thank you!

Probably the bulge is caused by these bullets being larger than .357 diameter. The .38 S&W is supposed to use a .361-.362 diameter bullet. These are hard to find, but if these bullets were made for the .38/200 cartridge, they are probably larger than .357. A micrometer will show if I am correct.

I think people can learn a lot from you. Thanks for sharing.

Well done. Thanks

Thanks man 👍🏼

i just let the cat lick mine. Her tongue is rougher than any brass case. Good Kitty!

what Model Number Bair do you have in this video? i’m sure you’ve upgraded by now but i really like it and i’d like to get one of my own

"Popping" primers when using the Lee loader should be a rarity. I've popped one in 50 years, and that was when I was first learning. The two things that make popping primers more likely with the Lee kits are #1 misaligned primers and #2 striking the seating rod AFTER the primer is fully seated. The misalignment is addressed by careful positioning of the tools and the striking after fully seated is addressed by #1 cleaning the primer pockets of any debris (a small screwdriver will suffice), and #2 by checking a couple of times during the process of seating the primers. It isn't a nail - full force hammer strikes aren't needed. Several moderate to heavy taps will suffice. And yes, a non marring hammer is important. Decent video. 👍

Very well explained what to do and why. I just bought a LEE press and thanks to you I know what to do. Thank you for wanting to make this film. Greetings from Poland.

Greetings friend. 1) Your bullet pulling tool is a pair of needle nose plyers, not "vise grips". And 2) Your Needle nose plyers might work better if you grip the bullet from horizontal angle, braced agianst the top of the press. Safe Loading, 😊

The CH Die company was founded by Charles Heckman who was a shooter/ gu n writer from the 50-60s. I had a two die set for 38 special and the use of a single die to size, decap and bell the cases was a bit odd as noted in this video. Belling a case mouth and sizing it in the same die is somewhat counterproductive and wouldnt work at all if it were not for the resilency of brass cases. Your charge of unique sounds about right for the 200 grain bullet. 2.5 grains of unique under a .361 round nose lead at 145 grains is a close duplicate for those factor loads in the video. That bullet diameter is standard for the cartridge though Colt revolvers in that chambering are identical or very close to the .357-358" diameter of the 38 special.Speer reloading manuals often list loads with .357 speer wadcutters regardless of the make of the revolver.

Those powder prices 😭

Try a raw hide mallet,like you so leather crafts

Which De Priming die is that?

Hey, I have a question about your iron C press. I have similar press and the ram is developing some play. is there a remedy that you know of?

I’m a new reloaded and this is one of the most helpful videos I’ve watched. Simplified my setup. Thank you!

Teach me Obi-wan…

right on the money with this one RR, Hav the same experience. Try Eggleston nice poly coat bullets

major question: I did what he said and the crimp on my round now looks like ribs along the top of the casing near the round. What is that/??

Excellent explanation of a confusing process for a newbie like me. Thank you!!!

Why does the checker say 44amg/special instead of 44mag?

Made the light come on in this old brain. Thank You!

Where can we get the stl files for these items?

this guy knows what he's talkin about. this is the simplest way to do it.👍👍👍

If you look for it you can get sherwin williams powder coat for about half of eastwood and it is the same time of coating.

One important note. Your cases should ALL be trimmed to the same length. If you have a case that is too long you will start the crimp too soon and it will be too deep. If the case is too short you will get a very weak or possibly no crimp at all.

There’s no such thing as a “re-sizing die.”

Hey Reloader, how long does this walkie talkie survives just listening without transmitting? like with an AA batteries?

I've been curious about reloading for a long time and didn't realize i could get into it for so cheap! I'm getting one of these kits!

this is vey cool, thanks for the new content. if you make a caulk mark on the wall and run a test you can use that a a registration mark to keep you head in the frame. Just an FYI

I put a piece of rubber hose over the threaded rod on the tumbler to prevent the threaded rod from scratching my cases.

I have just bought one of these in 308. Only extra thing I bought was a set of digital scales. It produces really good, consistent and accurate rounds using X-Terminator Powder and 168Gr PPU Match Bullets. I am never in a rush to load ammo and can produce 50 ish in an hour. Perfectly adequate for my needs.

cool stuff RR.

But why an ass. Like i get its just anywhere but come on 🤣

I liked your video and think I might give it a try, I have been casting for 30+ years now. The observation I made is your uncoated bullet seems wrinkley to me. I always cast HOT! I think it fills the mold better and makes the base and lube bands crisper. I like them frosty. That may help the powder coating stick in a more😮 uniform manner. Great video.

This is a great tool, The only problem with it is if you are seating purposely oversized cast lead bullets, this will swage them down a bit and accuracy can suffer. I use mine in 38 special and 32 S&W Long when loading Hollow base wadcutters. I skip the initial resizing step since that necks down the brass too much to seat a long wadcutter bullet in some cases without deforming them - then I seat and crimp the wadcutters flush with the case mouth, and then run them through these carbide factory crimp dies to make them feed through my various revolvers of the same caliber. It makes all the rounds uniform and any slight deformation in Hollow base wadcutter diameter caused by the carbide fcd does not seem to affect performance and I avoid messing up the nose of the soft wadcutters by trying to force them into a too-narrow case.