This is my first time watching your youtube videos, but they are so cool! I'm surprised that the JST is more convenient than the IDC connector, if it's just an issue with crimping I could maybe help out with that, but if it's the form factor than JST is better, and makes sense. I decided to expand my eurorack case space and ordered a 9u box from Italy recently, a handmade case with Meanwell supplies and threaded strips. I think your 3d printed tappable plastic strips are brilliant. The sliding nuts seem so flexible but they're sooo fiddly and frustrating. Quick review of the received italian case is that it's great, the meanwell supplies are quiet, and everything is as-expected. It allowed me to resurrect a lot of modules I'd had to put on my shelves, and I'm having fun exploring them again with my other units. But now my desk space is all messed up. Fun problems though :)
Oh hey, thanks Daniel! Yeah the JST works great because I don't have to use a socket for point-to-point or deadbug builds. I can solder wire directly to the power rails and then crimp the other ends. That'll be difficult to do with ribbon cables. I do have slide nuts on my gig case and it really is fiddly. 😂 I'm glad you got a catch-all case as well! It's so nice to have the modules ready to go all the time.
You're welcome! I'm glad you like it. In filament, it costs around $1 for a pair of 42HP rails. Printing time is around 2-3hours each, so whatever that costs in electricity. My printer is an Ender 3 and it uses around 0.12 kWh. :D
Great stuff Benjie - I'm planning to build my first "nice looking" rack soon as I'm currently using a very roughly built rack that I quickly built from scrap wood to get me going. I love your 3D printed rails; such a good solution. I don't have a 3D printer just yet though so I'll probably continue with screwing into the wood, which works fine. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, James! Yeah screwing into wood is definitely a good solution too. Screwing into plastic is just a tiny upgrade. I like it because I can use the usual eurorack bolts and the alignment is more consistent. PETG doesn't strip as easily as I expected either, so I bet it'll last longer than using wood screws. We'll see. 😁
Nice. I've been making angled cases by first making a box similar to what you have here. I then glue a rectangle of 3mm ply onto the side of the box that will be the highest point of the case. The size of the rectangle determines the height and angle. I then cut two more pieces of 3mm ply based off the angle created by the first piece. I glue those onto the sides. 3mm ply can be cut with a Stanley knife. It's hands down the simplest way to make an angled case that I know of. I use 12mm ply for the box and don't use rails at all. Jus little wood screws straight into the ply. I reckon its up there with the easiest DIY case solutions going around.
With a larger case you may need to reinforce the 3mm ply by gluing some extra pieces of thicker wood inside the case after you have the angle right. It's all hidden inside the case because the 3mm ply is like a veneer. You can mess around a lot trying to cut bits of wood to the right angles this makes it a lot easier.
Nice to hear you
Thank you!! :)
Great music in this, love it
Thank you very much! 😊
Increible video!!! Gracias por compartir :)
thank you so much!
Nice patch during this cool video
Thanks!! 😊
great sharing ! i want to build one then. one love from north borneo
thank you so much! i wish you luck on your build if you do. :D
This is my first time watching your youtube videos, but they are so cool! I'm surprised that the JST is more convenient than the IDC connector, if it's just an issue with crimping I could maybe help out with that, but if it's the form factor than JST is better, and makes sense.
I decided to expand my eurorack case space and ordered a 9u box from Italy recently, a handmade case with Meanwell supplies and threaded strips. I think your 3d printed tappable plastic strips are brilliant. The sliding nuts seem so flexible but they're sooo fiddly and frustrating.
Quick review of the received italian case is that it's great, the meanwell supplies are quiet, and everything is as-expected. It allowed me to resurrect a lot of modules I'd had to put on my shelves, and I'm having fun exploring them again with my other units. But now my desk space is all messed up.
Fun problems though :)
Oh hey, thanks Daniel!
Yeah the JST works great because I don't have to use a socket for point-to-point or deadbug builds. I can solder wire directly to the power rails and then crimp the other ends. That'll be difficult to do with ribbon cables.
I do have slide nuts on my gig case and it really is fiddly. 😂
I'm glad you got a catch-all case as well! It's so nice to have the modules ready to go all the time.
Great cases bro!! 😄
thanks!!
Thanks for the interesting and useful video! 🙂 How much did it cost to make the 3D printed rails?
You're welcome! I'm glad you like it. In filament, it costs around $1 for a pair of 42HP rails.
Printing time is around 2-3hours each, so whatever that costs in electricity. My printer is an Ender 3 and it uses around 0.12 kWh. :D
@@benjiaomodular That's great! It's much cheaper than buying Eurorack rails! 😀
Many thanks for your helpful reply! 👍👌 Subscribed!
Great stuff Benjie - I'm planning to build my first "nice looking" rack soon as I'm currently using a very roughly built rack that I quickly built from scrap wood to get me going. I love your 3D printed rails; such a good solution. I don't have a 3D printer just yet though so I'll probably continue with screwing into the wood, which works fine. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, James! Yeah screwing into wood is definitely a good solution too.
Screwing into plastic is just a tiny upgrade. I like it because I can use the usual eurorack bolts and the alignment is more consistent.
PETG doesn't strip as easily as I expected either, so I bet it'll last longer than using wood screws. We'll see. 😁
Nice. I've been making angled cases by first making a box similar to what you have here. I then glue a rectangle of 3mm ply onto the side of the box that will be the highest point of the case. The size of the rectangle determines the height and angle. I then cut two more pieces of 3mm ply based off the angle created by the first piece. I glue those onto the sides. 3mm ply can be cut with a Stanley knife. It's hands down the simplest way to make an angled case that I know of. I use 12mm ply for the box and don't use rails at all. Jus little wood screws straight into the ply. I reckon its up there with the easiest DIY case solutions going around.
Ohh that's smart. I'll keep this in mind. Thank you very much for sharing!
With a larger case you may need to reinforce the 3mm ply by gluing some extra pieces of thicker wood inside the case after you have the angle right. It's all hidden inside the case because the 3mm ply is like a veneer.
You can mess around a lot trying to cut bits of wood to the right angles this makes it a lot easier.