Jo, variable cam timing has an immense role to play in making power on dual overhead cam vehicles. For sure. I can attest to this because I've been playing around with the variable cam timing on my Chevy Cruze. Now before my motor blew I could easily take an SRT4 or a rabbit R and my cruise with a stock turbo and stock internals. Granted I'm running 60 lb injectors E85 full catalyst ported intake manifold like you name it. I have it just not internals. Well since the motor blew. I decided to do a full build. So now I have a fully built motor with a zzp cam b&R springs rated at 80 lb titanium retainers. It revs to 8000 RPM. I got a stage 3 clutch and a single Mass light and flywheel. The clock's in I think about 17 lb. And all the other bells and whistles to go with it, including an aftermarket turbo. I have been having a hell of a time getting the variable cam timing to make solid power all the way through and as much as I know about cars iTuned for a living. It's what I do full-time but I just cannot manage to get this thing tuned properly and if homeboy here at Goat rope garage could touch on a GM verbal cam timing specifically for the e78 ECU not for the old l&js or the l&f. Or you know none of the previous ecotech motors but like current lineup ecotech more specifically the luv and luj motors from the cruise the first generation that is. If you could do anything to touch on that that would help me out a great deal and I was. I'm sure it would help out a number of other people that are struggling with this. Now. I played with the cam timing on it previously and by adjusting it a bit I was able to on the stock cams make power all the way up to redline which this car falls flat on its face at about 5000 RPM and that was at 25 PSI. Valve float. Obviously being a problem but it was able to make power up there so I know the cams are capable of doing that. If you get the springs and retainers you know upgrade the valve train to do it. But you be doing me a world of good and probably a lot of other people too. If you had any insight on the late Gen 4 early Gen 5 four-cylinder dual overhead cam timing specifically related to the variable cam timing on these engines. Cuz I've got a lot of power that wants to be made and just I cannot get it for the life of me to make power like it was before. The can that's in it is substantially bigger the way zcp has them set up. I just need a little help here. So if you got anything to send my way or if you're going to create a video on that I would love that I'll definitely donate to
Fords twin independent variable cam timing looks intimidating, but for tuning you really only need to adjust the optimum power mode. the rest is for blending between fuel economy or stability. I think most people would prefer their car to drive like normal and get the same mpg cruising but have the tune kick in when they get on the gas, which is where the OP mode is super nice
Thank you for that. My brother just got a 17 mustang gt and I was wanting to learn how it works and what does what lol. I have a good history on LS engines
On GM E78 ECM VV cams makes tuning VVE table a moving target. I have just wholesale added 8% only way that the car wouldn't be crap. Also I have bigger camshafts. It a vary special upgrade that is only offered by zz performance
On a GM for most vehicles at least, setting the table to 0* is actually going to be 8.5* advanced on cam angle. Locking out a vvt cam at 0* you would want to use a value of 8 or 9. Also I have had success on gen 4 and 5 trucks setting the "egr" portion to a max value of 8 and interpolate to make it blend well.
Ive tuned my dodge with an aftermarket cam using the vvt and never had a problem with fueling because of the it. Im not sure if dodge is simpler or i got lucky, but i just adjusted the cam angle and then tuned the ve table and had good results
We need a look at GM High feature 3.6 V6. Quad cams. Especially the early ones, with the torque control being similar to the gen 5 motors, but no Virtual Torque application, or VVE in HPT, and cam angle affects the torque table as much as spark timing
Car Craft or Hot Rod magazine years ago did dyno tests on an LS engine with the variable cam timing locked out, and then with it working. It definitely filled out the power curve, so to say the variable cam timing "is really there for emissions first" isn't accurate. The difference with and without was significant.
I’ve ran plenty of back to back tests on the road using a draggy and there was no benefit, after accessing the tests times were faster with it disabled. I don’t care what any dyno says, off is not shaving time off the 1/4 mile it’s useless, especially given all the collapsed lifter issues. There is a reason it I didn’t come on the LS7
@@GoatRopeGarage Well, either way I enjoy your videos and have learned some useful things for tuning my own vehicles, so thanks for putting yourself out there. By the way, speaking of testing and evaluating things, could you maybe do a video showing the best way to analyze the results of part throttle tuning? WOT tuning results are pretty easy to test just by timing a full throttle run, but part throttle results seem to be much harder to quantify. I like to also tune for part throttle economy and I've tried setting up various graphs in the scanner using the torque pid to watch my part throttle torque output, but it's difficult to tell if I'm getting anywhere with it. I'm an old-school guy who used to just read spark plugs for stuff like this. Lol
Part throttle is tough, because it’s so subjective to how you want the car to drive. I generally go for manners, I want a car to be stock until you open it up then unleash hell but some prefer it a little rough. Torque is a great indicator to watch as it’s calculated by the ecu from airflow and timing, those combined with the displacement can give a wicked accurate number, but your airflow has to be dialed in really dang good abs I would put it back in closed loop to get it that extra couple percent accurate. If you really wanted to go for efficiency you could lean out the stoich table, if the ecu didn’t have a lean cruise setting and lower your PE engagement, you could probably roll around at 15.1 all day and still have good fuel for WoT. Just remember that the eq ratio for PE is based on stoich so you might have to richer that table a bit to make sure you are still hitting a good target.
@@GoatRopeGarage I'm currently playing with my daily driver Avenger RT to get myself up to speed before I start playing with my other vehicles. I've altered the base cam timing tables to get rid of the simulated EGR, and it's already much more responsive. I've been racking my brain trying to figure out how to make it do a lean cruise. Does Dodge have a stoich table? I'm at work right this minute and all I recall are injector pulsewidth tables. Also, if I try to adjust for lean cruise, is the Neural Network going to just undo my changes? Should I consider turning off the neural network and doing the ve tuning?
Hey I had a question unrelated to this video have you been able to recover bricked gen iv ecus I have bricked a couple and was wondering i should toss them or try to fix them
@@GoatRopeGarage it's an 06 auto GTO I manual swapped I was trying to load an 05 M6 file and it bricked it. I thought something else caused it so I grabbed the spare one I had and same thing happened
You dont look over file's do you? My dad started funding a ls build in his s10. My buddy built a junk yard 5.3 fresh we put a stage 2 summit cam, beehive springs, and a 4l60. Sadly my dad passed away from a blood clot at a truck stop. This truck has been a nightmare but ive got it down to tuning and none of the local tuners here can get it right. Its pig rich like 9.3 wot. Normal driving its fine. It does die every now and then but im certain thats just in the tuning. Ive swapped wide bands twice both read the same. Im just at a loss. It will also randomly have a no start and pop in the exhaust but after you cycle the key it fires right up. I've got 55psi at idle, with regulator, with vacuum off i got 60 psi. Im running a stock 5.3 fuel pump in the s10 tank. Ive installed new injectors with the same ones that were in there that were also new. No change. The one guy tuning it says he believes its in tuning but i dont understand why its so rich at wot. Ive watched hours of your videos recently and im thinking its a mass air flow adjustment and the ve... but im new to this. I am a ford guy but i love this little truck. Any tips?
I somewhat disagree about having to log degree and tune each angle individually for GM gen 4. When you modify VVE for an angle, that change proliferates across all angles in the VVE editor. In other words, each degree is not independent. I've gotten lambda pretty accurate just by tuning everything at 0 degrees. The key for me is to just get a ton of cell hits when logging so that the eq error has a good sample from various cam angles. Takes longer than if I had done a VVT delete, but not nearly as difficult as tuning each angle separately. Only way I would consider doing that is on a dyno, not street tuning.
Definitely emissions, from what I understand GM only retards cam timing on trucks. It causes an egr effect from the exhaust valve closing later. This takes up cylinder volume which is great for fuel economy and combustion cooling.
Jo, variable cam timing has an immense role to play in making power on dual overhead cam vehicles. For sure. I can attest to this because I've been playing around with the variable cam timing on my Chevy Cruze. Now before my motor blew I could easily take an SRT4 or a rabbit R and my cruise with a stock turbo and stock internals. Granted I'm running 60 lb injectors E85 full catalyst ported intake manifold like you name it. I have it just not internals. Well since the motor blew. I decided to do a full build. So now I have a fully built motor with a zzp cam b&R springs rated at 80 lb titanium retainers. It revs to 8000 RPM. I got a stage 3 clutch and a single Mass light and flywheel. The clock's in I think about 17 lb. And all the other bells and whistles to go with it, including an aftermarket turbo. I have been having a hell of a time getting the variable cam timing to make solid power all the way through and as much as I know about cars iTuned for a living. It's what I do full-time but I just cannot manage to get this thing tuned properly and if homeboy here at Goat rope garage could touch on a GM verbal cam timing specifically for the e78 ECU not for the old l&js or the l&f. Or you know none of the previous ecotech motors but like current lineup ecotech more specifically the luv and luj motors from the cruise the first generation that is. If you could do anything to touch on that that would help me out a great deal and I was. I'm sure it would help out a number of other people that are struggling with this. Now. I played with the cam timing on it previously and by adjusting it a bit I was able to on the stock cams make power all the way up to redline which this car falls flat on its face at about 5000 RPM and that was at 25 PSI. Valve float. Obviously being a problem but it was able to make power up there so I know the cams are capable of doing that. If you get the springs and retainers you know upgrade the valve train to do it. But you be doing me a world of good and probably a lot of other people too. If you had any insight on the late Gen 4 early Gen 5 four-cylinder dual overhead cam timing specifically related to the variable cam timing on these engines. Cuz I've got a lot of power that wants to be made and just I cannot get it for the life of me to make power like it was before. The can that's in it is substantially bigger the way zcp has them set up. I just need a little help here. So if you got anything to send my way or if you're going to create a video on that I would love that I'll definitely donate to
Glad to see you coming back to tuning bro, and sorry to hear this year has not been good to you and the family. Stay strong mate.
Fords twin independent variable cam timing looks intimidating, but for tuning you really only need to adjust the optimum power mode. the rest is for blending between fuel economy or stability. I think most people would prefer their car to drive like normal and get the same mpg cruising but have the tune kick in when they get on the gas, which is where the OP mode is super nice
Thank you for that. My brother just got a 17 mustang gt and I was wanting to learn how it works and what does what lol. I have a good history on LS engines
Welcome back! My sincere condolences to you and the family. Sorrows can be tough on remembering the good times when everyone was smiling.
On GM E78 ECM VV cams makes tuning VVE table a moving target. I have just wholesale added 8% only way that the car wouldn't be crap. Also I have bigger camshafts. It a vary special upgrade that is only offered by zz performance
Good stuff. Glad you touched on the ford stuff and not just the LS, thanks
On a GM for most vehicles at least, setting the table to 0* is actually going to be 8.5* advanced on cam angle. Locking out a vvt cam at 0* you would want to use a value of 8 or 9. Also I have had success on gen 4 and 5 trucks setting the "egr" portion to a max value of 8 and interpolate to make it blend well.
Ive tuned my dodge with an aftermarket cam using the vvt and never had a problem with fueling because of the it. Im not sure if dodge is simpler or i got lucky, but i just adjusted the cam angle and then tuned the ve table and had good results
We need a look at GM High feature 3.6 V6. Quad cams. Especially the early ones, with the torque control being similar to the gen 5 motors, but no Virtual Torque application, or VVE in HPT, and cam angle affects the torque table as much as spark timing
I’ll have to look at one, crazy
@@GoatRopeGarage I can send you some files if you'd like
Car Craft or Hot Rod magazine years ago did dyno tests on an LS engine with the variable cam timing locked out, and then with it working. It definitely filled out the power curve, so to say the variable cam timing "is really there for emissions first" isn't accurate. The difference with and without was significant.
I’ve ran plenty of back to back tests on the road using a draggy and there was no benefit, after accessing the tests times were faster with it disabled. I don’t care what any dyno says, off is not shaving time off the 1/4 mile it’s useless, especially given all the collapsed lifter issues. There is a reason it I didn’t come on the LS7
@@GoatRopeGarage
Well, either way I enjoy your videos and have learned some useful things for tuning my own vehicles, so thanks for putting yourself out there.
By the way, speaking of testing and evaluating things, could you maybe do a video showing the best way to analyze the results of part throttle tuning? WOT tuning results are pretty easy to test just by timing a full throttle run, but part throttle results seem to be much harder to quantify. I like to also tune for part throttle economy and I've tried setting up various graphs in the scanner using the torque pid to watch my part throttle torque output, but it's difficult to tell if I'm getting anywhere with it.
I'm an old-school guy who used to just read spark plugs for stuff like this. Lol
Part throttle is tough, because it’s so subjective to how you want the car to drive. I generally go for manners, I want a car to be stock until you open it up then unleash hell but some prefer it a little rough. Torque is a great indicator to watch as it’s calculated by the ecu from airflow and timing, those combined with the displacement can give a wicked accurate number, but your airflow has to be dialed in really dang good abs I would put it back in closed loop to get it that extra couple percent accurate.
If you really wanted to go for efficiency you could lean out the stoich table, if the ecu didn’t have a lean cruise setting and lower your PE engagement, you could probably roll around at 15.1 all day and still have good fuel for WoT. Just remember that the eq ratio for PE is based on stoich so you might have to richer that table a bit to make sure you are still hitting a good target.
@@GoatRopeGarage
I'm currently playing with my daily driver Avenger RT to get myself up to speed before I start playing with my other vehicles. I've altered the base cam timing tables to get rid of the simulated EGR, and it's already much more responsive. I've been racking my brain trying to figure out how to make it do a lean cruise. Does Dodge have a stoich table? I'm at work right this minute and all I recall are injector pulsewidth tables. Also, if I try to adjust for lean cruise, is the Neural Network going to just undo my changes? Should I consider turning off the neural network and doing the ve tuning?
Can confirm...VVT at it's heart exists to improve emissions. Same goes for most of the innovation/complexity in the powertrain.
Sorry to hear about whats all been going
Hypothetically, if I only set the gen 4 LS to 0/20, does the solenoid just stay on/off? Would be nice for a Vtec engine.
Hey I had a question unrelated to this video have you been able to recover bricked gen iv ecus I have bricked a couple and was wondering i should toss them or try to fix them
Might be able to with a MDI, how did they get bricked?
@@GoatRopeGarage it's an 06 auto GTO I manual swapped I was trying to load an 05 M6 file and it bricked it. I thought something else caused it so I grabbed the spare one I had and same thing happened
Welcome back
I’m sure this comment is asked a lot but can you some some more gen v big cam idle tuning videos?
You dont look over file's do you? My dad started funding a ls build in his s10. My buddy built a junk yard 5.3 fresh we put a stage 2 summit cam, beehive springs, and a 4l60. Sadly my dad passed away from a blood clot at a truck stop. This truck has been a nightmare but ive got it down to tuning and none of the local tuners here can get it right. Its pig rich like 9.3 wot. Normal driving its fine. It does die every now and then but im certain thats just in the tuning. Ive swapped wide bands twice both read the same. Im just at a loss. It will also randomly have a no start and pop in the exhaust but after you cycle the key it fires right up. I've got 55psi at idle, with regulator, with vacuum off i got 60 psi. Im running a stock 5.3 fuel pump in the s10 tank. Ive installed new injectors with the same ones that were in there that were also new. No change. The one guy tuning it says he believes its in tuning but i dont understand why its so rich at wot. Ive watched hours of your videos recently and im thinking its a mass air flow adjustment and the ve... but im new to this. I am a ford guy but i love this little truck. Any tips?
I somewhat disagree about having to log degree and tune each angle individually for GM gen 4. When you modify VVE for an angle, that change proliferates across all angles in the VVE editor. In other words, each degree is not independent. I've gotten lambda pretty accurate just by tuning everything at 0 degrees. The key for me is to just get a ton of cell hits when logging so that the eq error has a good sample from various cam angles. Takes longer than if I had done a VVT delete, but not nearly as difficult as tuning each angle separately. Only way I would consider doing that is on a dyno, not street tuning.
I would love to have a conversation with you about all my tuning issues
Definitely emissions, from what I understand GM only retards cam timing on trucks. It causes an egr effect from the exhaust valve closing later. This takes up cylinder volume which is great for fuel economy and combustion cooling.
The Bain of coyote tuners! Lol 😅
Dude, I never want to tune ford’s
@@GoatRopeGarage lmfao amen brother