Thanks! One of my earliest 3d printed molds also had a 3d printed outer shell (designed manually) and I've been missing that. It'll be great to have in my new molds and done for me by the software!
Omg the software you are working on is genius and exactly what I've been looking for! I've been tinkering to figure out exactly how to go from sketch to 3D print to mould. Thank you so much for your work!
@@PotterybyKent I checked the market area here, I couldn't find ready made clay or so, but the Shopkeeper told me that there are dry soil which type do you want? He said you take the type of soil you want with some devices for processing it (even very small ones), he said you can make the clay at home..., I didn't know which types of clay are recommended, can you help me with the types please? Is it even possible? Any beginner instructions you propose for me to start? I am really interested in pottery, for a long time but couldn't make it happen yet, now I want to try! Why Not?!😅
Hello Kent! Many thanks for your work! At 9:22 you mention different settings for the rotation step sizes (36 and 360). What are these settings? Is this a setting in the slicer? I am new to 3d printing. I just printed a bowl on standard settings (0.2mm) and the sides of the bowl consist of 5mm wide faces. I understand this is the reality of FDM printing, but would like to make them less noticeable. Thanks!
Sorry for the confusion. This is a parameter inside of Shape Cast that (at the moment) isn't exposed. It is not a setting in the slicer, but one in how the actual 3D geometry is generated. (And any parts generated with Shape Cast right now use this higher resolution setting). As far as layer lines, yes you'll notice them at 0.2mm layer heights. You have a couple options. One is to reduce the layer height and speed - this will help but won't make them go away. It is also sloooow. The other option is to do some post processing. I have another video in the play list where I use a special primer and sanding. With that you can make it as smooth as you want. There are other similar methods that involve post processing the part, but I've only used the primer.
I’m really enjoying your series on slip casting and mold making! I’m super novice when it comes to 3D printing. What machine do you use/recommend? Thank you and keep up the good work!
Dear Kent. Thank you for letting me at the Beta version of your program. I tried it and ı dont know why when I attached the file to 3d printers program it scales the model in to a huge one. Since the model has many peaces it is getting very difficult to scale it in to needed size. I am just learning how to use bamboolab. So when it comes to scale to needed size it becomes impossible :( ı send the line art in cm’s. What am I doing wrong?
Send me a email. It sounds like the scale of your SVG is wrong (wrong units). The 3D files should not be scaled at all - they will not print correctly if you scale them,
There is no auto reply. It's just for occasional updated and it's been a bit since I sent one out! I've been working on getting this usable by others and as soon as I do, I'll send out an email.
I have been considering using a 3D printer to make plaster molds and see your video as very timely. I do not own a 3D printer yet. Do you recommend a specific model?
I have an Ender 3 which is pretty old at this point. It works and is cheap. I know there are newer faster printers but I havent really looked recently at options.
I own 3 Prusa MK3s and have been very, very pleased with being able to "just print." All have worked out of the box. I've found several now on eBay for about half the cost of a new printer. Prusa's are a bit pricey, but they do work well and reliably. Less expensive printers tend to be more fiddley and at times, frustrating. So, in part, it depends on if you want to learn about the ins-and-outs of 3D printing and printers, or just print molds. One thing to look for is the size of the user community, as this is typically your "support."
Nice work! You made my day when you added the thought of printing the pouring surround and not using the bucket! Looking forward to the next video
Thanks! One of my earliest 3d printed molds also had a 3d printed outer shell (designed manually) and I've been missing that. It'll be great to have in my new molds and done for me by the software!
Omg the software you are working on is genius and exactly what I've been looking for! I've been tinkering to figure out exactly how to go from sketch to 3D print to mould. Thank you so much for your work!
Great to hear!
Brother, you are doing a great job, I'm just enjoying it more than last video every single time! Thanks 😊
That's great to hear!
@@PotterybyKent I checked the market area here, I couldn't find ready made clay or so, but the Shopkeeper told me that there are dry soil which type do you want? He said you take the type of soil you want with some devices for processing it (even very small ones), he said you can make the clay at home..., I didn't know which types of clay are recommended, can you help me with the types please? Is it even possible?
Any beginner instructions you propose for me to start?
I am really interested in pottery, for a long time but couldn't make it happen yet, now I want to try! Why Not?!😅
I'm not sure I can help much with that - but I know there are people that fire with "backyard" clay they dig out of the ground.
@@PotterybyKent OK, I understand, I will try to look out for the rest. Which types clay is good with slip casts that you're showing?
I'm buying clay designed to be slip cast. But the exact composition I do not know.
Thanks for all the hard work! 🤩
Sure thing!!
Excellent
😊
This is great!!
Thanks so much!
Hello Kent! Many thanks for your work! At 9:22 you mention different settings for the rotation step sizes (36 and 360). What are these settings? Is this a setting in the slicer? I am new to 3d printing. I just printed a bowl on standard settings (0.2mm) and the sides of the bowl consist of 5mm wide faces. I understand this is the reality of FDM printing, but would like to make them less noticeable. Thanks!
Sorry for the confusion. This is a parameter inside of Shape Cast that (at the moment) isn't exposed. It is not a setting in the slicer, but one in how the actual 3D geometry is generated. (And any parts generated with Shape Cast right now use this higher resolution setting).
As far as layer lines, yes you'll notice them at 0.2mm layer heights. You have a couple options. One is to reduce the layer height and speed - this will help but won't make them go away. It is also sloooow. The other option is to do some post processing. I have another video in the play list where I use a special primer and sanding. With that you can make it as smooth as you want. There are other similar methods that involve post processing the part, but I've only used the primer.
@@PotterybyKent ok, I see, thanks! Yeah, I want to try to print on the fine or extra fine settings and then try the primer + sanding method.
I’m really enjoying your series on slip casting and mold making! I’m super novice when it comes to 3D printing. What machine do you use/recommend? Thank you and keep up the good work!
I think any of the new fast printers are probably a good choice. I got myself a Bambu p1p the end of last year and it is both fast and just works.
Very nice solution with the software. I do like the enclosure improvement without a bucket. Like to contribute if you need any help with software.
Thanks!
Dear Kent. Thank you for letting me at the Beta version of your program. I tried it and ı dont know why when I attached the file to 3d printers program it scales the model in to a huge one. Since the model has many peaces it is getting very difficult to scale it in to needed size. I am just learning how to use bamboolab. So when it comes to scale to needed size it becomes impossible :( ı send the line art in cm’s. What am I doing wrong?
Send me a email. It sounds like the scale of your SVG is wrong (wrong units). The 3D files should not be scaled at all - they will not print correctly if you scale them,
@@PotterybyKent yes, scaling does not work … So I will send the files as soon as possible. Thank you very much Kent!
is the a auto reply to sign up or is it wait for announcement?
There is no auto reply. It's just for occasional updated and it's been a bit since I sent one out! I've been working on getting this usable by others and as soon as I do, I'll send out an email.
I have been considering using a 3D printer to make plaster molds and see your video as very timely. I do not own a 3D printer yet. Do you recommend a specific model?
I have an Ender 3 which is pretty old at this point. It works and is cheap. I know there are newer faster printers but I havent really looked recently at options.
I own 3 Prusa MK3s and have been very, very pleased with being able to "just print." All have worked out of the box. I've found several now on eBay for about half the cost of a new printer. Prusa's are a bit pricey, but they do work well and reliably. Less expensive printers tend to be more fiddley and at times, frustrating. So, in part, it depends on if you want to learn about the ins-and-outs of 3D printing and printers, or just print molds. One thing to look for is the size of the user community, as this is typically your "support."
This rules, I've been using Rhino for my forms. Any word from Bambu users on compatibility? What PLA are you using?
Thanks! I'm using a pla+ on my Bambu p1p. However it's not very particular as long as you can get decent prints
@@PotterybyKent nice! I’ve been using an x1c since January. Love it, had some weird hiccups but nothing too major. How’s the p1p?
I've really enjoyed it. Before that I had an original ender3 so it was a huge upgrade!
idk why but you look like mr beast
😂
🤣