How to Deal with Elbow Injuries (for climbers) | Lattice Training
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- Опубліковано 28 тра 2024
- The second episode in Ollie Torr's injury series, here he guides us through how to train around elbow injuries. In this video Ollie covers 3 main topics; how to continue to train finger strength, how to keep climbing without aggravating your elbows and how to make the most of your strength and conditioning.
Remember, this advice is not for rehabbing the injured area itself - for this you should always seek the advice of a medical professional.
Intro: (0:00)
Monitoring the injury: (1:00)
Finger strength training: (1:31)
Climbing: (6:30)
Conditioning: (10:00)
Outro: (14:47)
Look out for more from this series, as we will also cover training around; shoulder injuries and knee injuries in future episodes.
If you missed the first episode go back and watch it here - • Training with a Finger...
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Cheers, Ollie. This was very useful for my particular situation. Really appreciate these types of videos.
Great content guys, always learning so much with the vids, the website and all the knowledge that is provided.
I would like to ask a video, maybe follow along, on post training stretching, after hard upperbody workout or strong climbing, to aim chest, shoulders, core and other muscles involved.
Thank you again.
So useful, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Fantastic video as always! I've been suffering with medial epicondylitis for 14 weeks so far, initially stopped all activity for four weeks, then moved onto rehab exercises, then started gentle climbing, focusing on keeping the arm straight, but these suggestions in this video are great. Will definitely look at the isometric lock-offs and using an edge on a pinch block to start to work the fingers more rather than the hangboard. Thanks for the effort in making the video - it's demotivating when you get injured and it feels like it takes ages so it's always good to be re-assured that it happens and it will pass if you are careful with it!
Absolutely Dave! Injuries happen and it can be really frustrating. How we deal with and overcome injuries makes a massive difference to our long term development. We need to stay positive and use injuries as a learning experience.
Great video! Thank you! If you could, we would love one about "how to deal with shoulder injuries for climbers"
Thanks for the feedback, we’ll add it to the wish list!
Add knee, and ankle injuries to the list.
@@LatticeTraining yes, another vote for shoulders.
I’ve been trying to rehab mine for months
@@CorkBouldering plus one for knees
@@LatticeTraining I vote for the wrist :-)
Thank god for this episode, I've had tennis elbow problems in both arms (I'm a musician, piano tuner and I enjoy climbing): now I at least know what's going on! For sure I have tightness in the shoulder/upper body. Yes I've had many physiotherapy sessions but, not really fixed the problem at the source... I will try those exercises for sure! 👍❤️
Glad this episode was helpful Greg. Working on your shoulders and upper body should help. If you see a physio again, I'd recommend seeking out one that specializes in working with climbers. Many do remote consultations these days. I've seen some very conservative advise from general physios, such as "just rest". Many times this is not helpful and does not get us back to the point of being able to climb hard again. It can become a recurring cycle. Climbing specialist should be able to inform your training and propose a plan a for 'return to sport'.
That’s rough! Good luck!! On some days I have to choose between climbing and guitar/percussion because it can really overwork my elbows.
@@LatticeTraining Hey! Big fan of your content. What's the source or study you're referencing when saying that a tightness in the chest and/or shoulders matters in the development of lateral or medial epicondylalgia?
I didn't watch this video last week when it was uploaded, and as such the climbing gods have smited me with an elbow injury (I think its tennis elbow). Now I know not to skip a video ever again...
I have had triceps tendinitis for almost my entire time climbing. Using an open grip definitely helps, I think I must train this way for good.
Think about changing the volume or intensity of your climbing/training. Usually chronic pain issues means your total workload needs to be modified. Changing form can help e.g. grip position but this should not be the only solution.
I personally found that one of the worst movements for my elbow was mantling. However, the last lockdown kind of helped in recovery. Thanks for those interesting insights!
Thanks @chaosengine! Lockdown was an interesting time for injuries. A lot of people had more time to do rehab or were forced into rest.
Great content as always!
Without going into much detail, as a climber, I never imagined I will be faced with tennis elbow myself (reading that sounds so naive), but here I am, after 3 months of gradual worsening and at least one acute episode, things have gotten pretty chronic and grim. I went for an ultrasound check yesterday and found out that I have partial tears in the tendon of both the affected arm (>30% of the cross-area of the tendon), as well as the healthy one (~20%). I tried eccentrics before going for the ultrasound for around 2-3 weeks, with mixed results, but felt like it was always worse after them and a bit better without them. My question is, knowing now that I actually do have tearing (or micro lesions) in such a percentage, is it still advisable to keep the eccentrics in the rehab process, or allow for some time to recover and then start them over gradually?
Would greatly appreciate any input! Thanks, Andrei
Hi Ollie, My tendinosis has returned after being gone for 4-5 years. It is medial in my right arm and lateral in my left. I have been trying to get rid of it for the last 3 months by trying everything that i know. I sometimes get a few days that i think i am on a road to recovery, but then i seem to slip to the trend of getting worse every week. I don't know what to do more of and what to do less of. I believe that to heal tendons you have to load them, but how much is the big mystery (5 sets of one or two reps of heavy weight, each set separated by minutes not seconds, once a day or days of rest in between, or sets of 15 with light weight with short rest). Maybe i should stop climbing for 8 or more weeks and only use weights etc. boring, and not guaranteed to work?
I have avoided cortisone like the plague, but perhaps it is time to try it with a plan of heavy focused exercise at the exact window. Six years ago, i got a single treatment of platelet rich plasma in the injury site (prolotherapy), but that was like $800 out of pocket. Perhaps that is the only thing that will work? I haven't seen virtually anyone discussion either of these two options lately so i am hesitant and fundamentally cheep at heart.
I would love to hear further discussions on this very annoying injury recovery path, and would love to read any postings that you might provide.
Thanks for this! I'm not able to fully straighten my right arm at the moment, is the first exercise with a weighted edge block still safe to perform? I've noticed that my shoulders & neck are aggravated and when I first got the injury, I felt numbness in my pinky and ring fingers. Are these exercises still recommended during the recovery? Thanks!
Glad you liked the video Alvin! Edge block training is fine with a straight arm or slight bend. If you are unable to use a full range of motion in the elbow you need to first address this with a physio. Many physios use edge block training in the (finger) rehab process because its very easy to modify the load used. In many ways its safer that traditional hangboarding. Numbness and pain referred into the shoulder and neck sounds like you need to talk with a medical professional. A professional diagnosis is invaluable in cases like this.
hi! any additional information for tennis elbow recovery, exercises/guidelines? would super appreciate any, thank you as always!
Things like wrist isometrics, finger curls and lock-offs can help as the muscles need to be loaded in order to respond positively and return to climbing. The loads used need to dictated by how far along the rehab process you are. Training should not cause pain and using too much intensity or session frequency can make things worse. Talk to a physio for specific advice. Many skip this step but its honesty invaluable. Us climbers tend to get things like tennis elbow many times in our life so having a well informed program to fall back on really helps.
@@LatticeTraining thank you!! Definitely, this is very person/context specific and I only get it at moderate to mild intensity after bouldering 1 day on 1 day off type thing (there's only a bouldering gym in Puerto Rico- it's the best 😅- though plenty of limestone routes) ... Ill try to find a physio but ive noticed reverse wrist iso's help a lot paired with rest.. oops for my long reply! thanks again!!
What is the name of the tool you are using for fingerstrength? :)
I bought some Versa Grips and they seem to help with my golfer's elbow during conditioning work. They take the load off my hands and therefore the forearm muscles that connect to the elbow. I know weightlifters do this, but I haven't heard of any climbers using straps.
Good idea lobtyu! A good tactic for reducing the training load on the forearms during a rehab period. I agree, not something we see very often but will certainly help if people are doing things like heavy pull-ups, deadlifts etc.
Thanks for the great video! I've been dealing with tennis elbows on both arms for a few weeks now and had to keep off training and climbing since Easter. While my right arm is slowly getting better, my left arm has actually gotten worse. I've been experiencing sudden stinging pain across the entire joint every now and then, and a decreased range of motion when rotating my forearm. Usually that pain is gone after a few minutes. It almost feels like something is moving freely in the joint, getting stuck (causing the pain) and then once it's "out if the way", I can move the arm painlessly.
Any ideas on what that could be?
Did you get your arm fixed? Sounds more like free bodies?
Thanks a lot for this extremely motivating video. Dealing with Golfer's elbow since a few weeks now and started some easy climbing again.
You're saying to make sure not to climb with bent arms all the time. I noticed that for the eight years I'm climbing now I always tended to have my arms rather too straight as in probably overbending my elbow. And now I feel like having a slight bend, just like the one you mentioned for finger training, feels the safest.
Glad you enjoyed the video. We hope your elbow feels better soon! Having a small bend, just so the muscles are engaged can help for sure.
Hi guys! Any thoughts on wearing a compression band or anything to aid while climbing or training with golfer's elbow?
If it alleviates the pain then yes maybe… but it’s almost certainly not a solution to the issue. Sorry!! 😬😬
@c4hp has the best exercises for golfers elbow. I did the eccentric slow finger rolls with a bar, after putting up with this for 12 months, it fixed it
A doctor had me try that a couple years ago. It helped when I returned to light climbing and it definitely helped me avoid causing elbow pain using a mouse at work for a few weeks. Moderate climbing (2-3 boulder grades below my max) was also pain free but dynos and heavy bouldering were a no go for longer than I thought. Also felt noticeably weaker with it on. Maybe something to do with “shortening” of the forearm muscles to reduce load near the elbow as he explained it to me.