Hi Jason love all your videos, fantastic content and it’s really helped me with my Karmann Ghia engine build I have watched over and over again.From Sean a big fan of you and Goose from the UK CHEERS MATEY.
Thanks again Jason for the sticker and letter. Liked your hand written notation . Hope that your channel grows to teach more VW enthusiasts . Sure saves on doing things wrong and spending a lot in purchasing the wrong required parts, And yes I go " BURRRRR " now here in Canada.
Thanks for the video. It was really helpful especially the portion on side play shimming which is the problem I have. Good use of the whiteboard to show the math and you do an excelent job explaining the process. I am trying to do as much of the work myself to better understand the aircooled engine and save $$$ and this video was exactly what I was looking for. Shims from CB are on order. I am definately going to check out your other videos. Well done sir!
This has been really helpful, now I know what I need to do to set side play and valve lash for a similar set up on a 1776 that I did not build, now I've seen this and know both those adjustments are wrong on my engine, I question the stack of shims he put under the rocker blocks and if that is correct for the geometry. Where would I find a good source for checking that as well ? Thank you
The best way to know if your shim stack is correct is to check for valve spring binding at full depression. Should be a space of around .060 fully depressed checking the bottom of the spring. I also didn't like the 3 or 4 shims I needed so I had some made. CB Performance carries a variety of larger-size shims as well. These are just like the ones I had made - www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1546.htm
Interesting that you are setting your valve lash to .002 with chromoly pushrods. What I have seen recommended is 0 lash cold for chromoly pushrods. I don't run chromoly pushrods on my performance engines. I use aluminum pushrods from JP Motorsports SE (Sweden). The are plenty strong enough (I have used them on dual springs with 450 lbs. of pressure, running up to 8,000 RPM), and they thermally expand with the rest of the engine, so that the valve train stays nice and quite at operating temperature. With chromoly pushrods, the valve lash grows as the engine warms up, and many times they end up with way too much lash, depending on how hot your engine is getting.
Yup... everyone does things a little different that's for sure. My tight .002 it someone's loose 0. I've heard of those pushrods your talking about... sounds very interesting.
@@JWClassicVW The JP Motorsports SE aluminum pushrods are the only aluminum pushrods on the market I haven't managed to bend. I have put all of the available ones in an engine, so it's been interesting experimenting with them. Before I tried the JP Motorsports SE ones, I actually started down the path of designing and making my own. I may still do that someday, as I know have the equipment to test them to know what they can really handle, besides just throwing them in an engine and running them.
@tomasalvarez6040 The only real difference between setting valve lash is the pushrod type. If they are Chromoly, then as close to 0 lash is best. With aluminum stock pushrods I've always set intake and exhaust to .006. If you know the cam type you have, it would be best to look up the manufacturer recommend valve lash for intake and exhaust.
I’ve never heard of putting grease on the valve cover gasket. I might have to try it one day. I use gray permatex on the valve cover, it usually last about a year of hard driving.
yup, I used to use silicone but didn't like the mess it made so I just thought I would try an old school trick I learned in the military... works pretty good.
@@JWClassicVW what brand “wheel bearing grease” did you use in this video? I was at Autozone earlier and almost bought a “high heat red grease” - funny, i can’t find it on their website now ... but glad I didn’t buy it. Now i know it was wheel bearing grease you used. Is this just so the gasket does not stick to the head or the cover and we have to scrape it off ?
Great video! Looking at your pushrod tube tins I see you use the standard type air deflector on your cylinders instead of the type 3 cool tin. Is there a reason for that or just so you could install your custom Industrial tins? I have noticed on motors with the t3 cool tins you can’t use the heater box tins. Just curious.
@@JWClassicVW and that tin issue is a contested one; some have reported great results with the cool tin while others say it’s sacrilege. Supposedly VW later put out a service bulletin saying that the flat deflectors were right all along. There are some theories that VW put out this bulletin so as not to admit a less than perfect design and minimize warranty claims.
@@JWClassicVW The type3 engine bay is different in shape and size, so different airflow characteristics to a bug. Did they have the stock twin carbs also? Anyways I think they could result in the engine taking to longer to reach normal operating temp. and that could result in a little higher fuel consumption with a little increase in engine wear going by my way of thinking. A temp. gauge test could show this.
You know that every head is a bit different in size do you? So it’s no use to make adjustments on another head. And of course you don’t have to measure both sides of each rocker...the other side definitely has exactly the same play. Go on 👍😎
Well the head rocker stud spacing should be pretty darn close to the other head... definitely suitable for mock up. Final assembly at the head will be the true test. In this case everything was right on. But it is true that everyone will have their own set of challenges that is for sure.
Be Sure to LIKE, SHARE, & SUBSCRIBE Thank you for all the support!!!
Hi Jason love all your videos, fantastic content and it’s really helped me with my Karmann Ghia engine build I have watched over and over again.From Sean a big fan of you and Goose from the UK CHEERS MATEY.
Glad your enjoying the channel!
Thanks again Jason for the sticker and letter. Liked your hand written notation . Hope that your channel grows to teach more VW enthusiasts . Sure saves on doing things wrong and spending a lot in purchasing the wrong required parts, And yes I go " BURRRRR " now here in Canada.
No problem brother, glad you got it up there in Canada! Awesome that you enjoy the channel, thx for supporting! 👍😎👍
Thanks for the video. It was really helpful especially the portion on side play shimming which is the problem I have. Good use of the whiteboard to show the math and you do an excelent job explaining the process. I am trying to do as much of the work myself to better understand the aircooled engine and save $$$ and this video was exactly what I was looking for. Shims from CB are on order. I am definately going to check out your other videos. Well done sir!
Glad it helped, good to hear that you enjoyed it!
Skinned knuckles, the mark of the man that has big hands working in a cramped bug engine bay😆
Yes Sir!! This is the struggle!
Hi. When you took the rocker cover off, there didn’t appear to be a lot of splashed oil on the springs & the ends of the valves?
It drains back fast brother.
This has been really helpful, now I know what I need to do to set side play and valve lash for a similar set up on a 1776 that I did not build, now I've seen this and know both those adjustments are wrong on my engine, I question the stack of shims he put under the rocker blocks and if that is correct for the geometry. Where would I find a good source for checking that as well ? Thank you
The best way to know if your shim stack is correct is to check for valve spring binding at full depression. Should be a space of around .060 fully depressed checking the bottom of the spring. I also didn't like the 3 or 4 shims I needed so I had some made. CB Performance carries a variety of larger-size shims as well.
These are just like the ones I had made - www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1546.htm
@@JWClassicVW thank you, I'm hooked on your channel and am sending links to friends from us up in Vancouver Island 👍
Interesting that you are setting your valve lash to .002 with chromoly pushrods. What I have seen recommended is 0 lash cold for chromoly pushrods. I don't run chromoly pushrods on my performance engines. I use aluminum pushrods from JP Motorsports SE (Sweden). The are plenty strong enough (I have used them on dual springs with 450 lbs. of pressure, running up to 8,000 RPM), and they thermally expand with the rest of the engine, so that the valve train stays nice and quite at operating temperature. With chromoly pushrods, the valve lash grows as the engine warms up, and many times they end up with way too much lash, depending on how hot your engine is getting.
Yup... everyone does things a little different that's for sure. My tight .002 it someone's loose 0. I've heard of those pushrods your talking about... sounds very interesting.
@@JWClassicVW The JP Motorsports SE aluminum pushrods are the only aluminum pushrods on the market I haven't managed to bend. I have put all of the available ones in an engine, so it's been interesting experimenting with them. Before I tried the JP Motorsports SE ones, I actually started down the path of designing and making my own. I may still do that someday, as I know have the equipment to test them to know what they can really handle, besides just throwing them in an engine and running them.
What setting is best in the feeler guage for a new 2161 stroker,…and for an old 1600 stock engine? Thanks
@tomasalvarez6040 The only real difference between setting valve lash is the pushrod type. If they are Chromoly, then as close to 0 lash is best. With aluminum stock pushrods I've always set intake and exhaust to .006. If you know the cam type you have, it would be best to look up the manufacturer recommend valve lash for intake and exhaust.
I’ve never heard of putting grease on the valve cover gasket. I might have to try it one day. I use gray permatex on the valve cover, it usually last about a year of hard driving.
yup, I used to use silicone but didn't like the mess it made so I just thought I would try an old school trick I learned in the military... works pretty good.
@@JWClassicVW what brand “wheel bearing grease” did you use in this video? I was at Autozone earlier and almost bought a “high heat red grease” - funny, i can’t find it on their website now ... but glad I didn’t buy it. Now i know it was wheel bearing grease you used. Is this just so the gasket does not stick to the head or the cover and we have to scrape it off ?
I might have missed it in your vid - wondering what model 1.4 rocker you used?
They are from Empi for this motor.
@@JWClassicVW Ok, Thanks. I'm wondering what would be some options for a small 74mm stroker (1968cc)?
Great video! Looking at your pushrod tube tins I see you use the standard type air deflector on your cylinders instead of the type 3 cool tin. Is there a reason for that or just so you could install your custom Industrial tins? I have noticed on motors with the t3 cool tins you can’t use the heater box tins. Just curious.
No real reason, just what i had. The type 3 deflector tin is superior but I've had no issues with overheating so far.
@@JWClassicVW and that tin issue is a contested one; some have reported great results with the cool tin while others say it’s sacrilege. Supposedly VW later put out a service bulletin saying that the flat deflectors were right all along. There are some theories that VW put out this bulletin so as not to admit a less than perfect design and minimize warranty claims.
@@vayabroder729 Well I don't know anything about that, but it is interesting.
@@JWClassicVW The type3 engine bay is different in shape and size, so different airflow characteristics to a bug. Did they have the stock twin carbs also?
Anyways I think they could result in the engine taking to longer to reach normal operating temp. and that could result in a little higher fuel consumption with a little increase in engine wear going by my way of thinking. A temp. gauge test could show this.
Do you only use one shim on a side, or could you use two thinner ones on one side of the rockers?
You can use any combo of shims that you want to make up the side play. I haven't found any guidance to say other wise.
I thought if you have chromoly pushrods you adjust your valves to loose zero lash?
That is correct, I run a loose 0 lash. Or also known as a super tight .002... lol
Do those valve covers ever come lose
Nope never had an issue with them... these are vented so that keeps pressure down.
You know that every head is a bit different in size do you? So it’s no use to make adjustments on another head. And of course you don’t have to measure both sides of each rocker...the other side definitely has exactly the same play. Go on 👍😎
Well the head rocker stud spacing should be pretty darn close to the other head... definitely suitable for mock up. Final assembly at the head will be the true test. In this case everything was right on. But it is true that everyone will have their own set of challenges that is for sure.
Always test on the real cyl head
I set mine to .006" with the hex key. Then tighten the hex nut . When I check the lash, it is a close .002" then.
Pretty good idea... ill have to try it.
Of course no good idea! It might work out as written once in a while. But that’s nothing else but luck. You know that
@@bjornbremer6123 Your still going to check the lash... if its dead on cool if not your doing it til it is right.
I love 0 valve lash
from here your rocker arm geometry appears to be off
Lol... it isn't but I guess I would need for you to maybe explain why you think that.