Just bought my first flathead in a 41 super deluxe and was completely lost when it came them. Your videos have been a great help man thank you for what you do man.
Yes sir, back when I was a younger man, there were still vehicles that were 6v vehicles and people would update to a 12v system and the main feed wire into the cabin they would install a voltage reducer as the 12v battery was mainly for cranking. I agree with you that retaining the original dash and gauges in that car is the best way to go. I see the aftermarket units attached to the underside of the dash and of course that was also common for people to do. Any other custom additions to the interior of that car would not work and one can see that the car has been garaged when not in use. Keeping the vehicle out of the elements does a lot towards the preservation.
Beautiful work. I could not see where the red wire coonects with the original wiring. I have a 1955 Ford Thunderbird that was converted to 12V and will need to make this adaptation to be able to use the gages on the dashboard that are currently not working, including the clock. Thank you for the guidance and explanations.
Hi I'm working on a 1942 Chevy truck. There were 2 nuts one at each end of the cluster. I've removed those and can't get the cluster to move. In guessing it drops out the back of the dark but I can't get it to move. Just trying to make sure it drops out the back of the dash and that well I'm not missing something. Everything is unhooked but it still won't budge. Ty in advance and thank you for the videos.
You mentioned the multi gauge reducer for the fuel gauge, temp and oil both mechanical but on the ammeter gauge can it handle the 12 volts from both the generator/alternator and the 12 v battery?
Hi Justin, do you replace the 6-volt fuel sending unit with a 12-volt unit, or does it route through the voltage reducer and receive power from the fuel gauge? I appreciate the videos and our conversation a few months ago, I'm in Virginia Beach.
I’ve read more than one place , that say when going from 6 v positive ground to 12 volt negative ground after using the voltage reducer, you need to change polarity if the gauges, is that not true
Quick question: how does the voltage reducer effect the factory volt meter? Since the volt meter is calibrated for 6 volts, if there's a 'no charge' situation, wouldn't you be unaware until the battery is drained below 6 volts?
I have watched several of this type of videos. All are pretty much the same. But it appears to me that this makes the system a negative ground with a positive supply voltage. It would seem that this the gages want work backwards. Like the fuel gage to show full when empty and empty when full. Please explain to me how I am wrong.
How about telling us what size wrench is needed to use on the bolts that hold the gauge cluster since You have to reach back behind and cannot see what size you need. Also you say to replace the bulbs with 12 volt bulbs. Isn't the whole idea to use the 6-volt bulbs?
The nuts are 3/8ths but are literally different on every dash I pull and some are mixed on the sizes. The whole car has been converted to 12 volts, you can run 12 volts to the gauges they will blow up so the gauges need the reducer, the power for the lights is different than the power for the gauges, I would rather have brighter 12 volt lights
Be very careful. Charge guage has main power lead passing through it, make sure nothings wrong at least with that wire. The reducer will get super hot, position it far as possible from anything combustible. Install a battery cutoff handy from driver seat and carry a fire extinguisher. Your first indicator will be an unexpected odor that something got too hot, then smoke. Have fun , safety is over rated 🤣
I WISH YOU HAD MENTIONED IF THE CAR IS NOW 12 VOLT POSITIVE GROUND ?? AS IT WAS 6 VOLT POSITIVE GROUND ORIGINALLY. YOU DID NOT MENTION THE 6 VOLT RADIO - CLOCK - FUEL SENDER OR TELL PEOPLE TO CHANGE ALL OTHER LIGHT BULBS ... JUST WONDERING
You guys need to quit pushing that. Classic cars should be kept STOCK. No Chevy engines in cars that aren't Chevys, no disk brakes in cars that never offered disks, no rack and pinion, no 12 volts. They should be STOCK. PS: Just use an 8 volt battery if you think you need more power. All you have to do is re-adjust the regulator. Everything else is fine as is. That is much better than altering a classic car.
I never tell anyone what to do with their cars, I only give people options. Also you might now like my page if you think 12 volt conversions are excessive, I literally chop cars roofs off
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Disgusting. Now on a late 70s or early 80s car, which is still rear drive and V8 powered, might be sweet, but on a real collector car? Shouldn't be done.
Just bought my first flathead in a 41 super deluxe and was completely lost when it came them. Your videos have been a great help man thank you for what you do man.
No problem at all Adam thank you for watching
That 40 is a beautiful time capsule. Thank you for sharing the knowledge and taking the time to make the video.
No problem man thank you for watching!
Beautiful car 🚗😍! Love your shop super ❤, little pup was making sure you pointed out everything!
Thank you!
Nice job, I converted my 48 f1 gauges using a video game adapter with a 500mA fuse back in the 90's.
Gotta do what you gotta do!
Sweet ride! Same here, I like the original stuff too. Art Deco era was on point! I have a '47 Chevy Fleetline I am restoring. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing, Zac! Great information, and an absolutely beautiful car! Enjoy! Be safe!
Thank you Harry I appreciate it!
Beautiful car
Nice job, thanks
No problem thank you for watching!
Yes sir, back when I was a younger man, there were still vehicles that were 6v vehicles and people would update to a 12v system and the main feed wire into the cabin they would install a voltage reducer as the 12v battery was mainly for cranking. I agree with you that retaining the original dash and gauges in that car is the best way to go. I see the aftermarket units attached to the underside of the dash and of course that was also common for people to do. Any other custom additions to the interior of that car would not work and one can see that the car has been garaged when not in use. Keeping the vehicle out of the elements does a lot towards the preservation.
Nobody was doing that before the 80s.
Great info
Zach, great video. 10:24 where did you connect the red to? Did it get connected to the dbl green wire, or to the ignition.
..nice presentation young man!
Beautiful work. I could not see where the red wire coonects with the original wiring. I have a 1955 Ford Thunderbird that was converted to 12V and will need to make this adaptation to be able to use the gages on the dashboard that are currently not working, including the clock. Thank you for the guidance and explanations.
Hi I'm working on a 1942 Chevy truck. There were 2 nuts one at each end of the cluster. I've removed those and can't get the cluster to move. In guessing it drops out the back of the dark but I can't get it to move. Just trying to make sure it drops out the back of the dash and that well I'm not missing something. Everything is unhooked but it still won't budge. Ty in advance and thank you for the videos.
You mentioned the multi gauge reducer for the fuel gauge, temp and oil both mechanical but on the ammeter gauge can it handle the 12 volts from both the generator/alternator and the 12 v battery?
That’s correct, technically the ammeter doesn’t care if it’s 12 or 6
Hi Justin, do you replace the 6-volt fuel sending unit with a 12-volt unit, or does it route through the voltage reducer and receive power from the fuel gauge?
I appreciate the videos and our conversation a few months ago, I'm in Virginia Beach.
I’ve read more than one place , that say when going from 6 v positive ground to 12 volt negative ground after using the voltage reducer, you need to change polarity if the gauges, is that not true
Did you use alternator or generator?
A Powermaster, alternator that looks like a generator
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Just off hand, does that alternator cause any issues with the ammeter? That alternator is in my future.
@@tbiker99 the ammeter is a unique gauge, it doesn’t care if it’s 6 volt or 12, just hook it up the same way it was originally
Quick question: how does the voltage reducer effect the factory volt meter? Since the volt meter is calibrated for 6 volts, if there's a 'no charge' situation, wouldn't you be unaware until the battery is drained below 6 volts?
If it’s an ammeter it’s wiring stays the same and needs no reduction, if it’s a volt meter then it needs to be replaced
I have watched several of this type of videos. All are pretty much the same. But it appears to me that this makes the system a negative ground with a positive supply voltage. It would seem that this the gages want work backwards. Like the fuel gage to show full when empty and empty when full. Please explain to me how I am wrong.
How about telling us what size wrench is needed to use on the bolts that hold the gauge cluster since You have to reach back behind and cannot see what size you need.
Also you say to replace the bulbs with 12 volt bulbs. Isn't the whole idea to use the 6-volt bulbs?
The nuts are 3/8ths but are literally different on every dash I pull and some are mixed on the sizes. The whole car has been converted to 12 volts, you can run 12 volts to the gauges they will blow up so the gauges need the reducer, the power for the lights is different than the power for the gauges, I would rather have brighter 12 volt lights
I know it's 2 years later, but I have a question . Does this reducer also take care of the fuel gauge ?
It sure does 👍🏼
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thank you very much . This has been the most informative vid. Thanks for your hard work .
@@andreamills5852 thank you I appreciate it
With the 12v conversion did you convert it to negative earth?
Be very careful. Charge guage has main power lead passing through it, make sure nothings wrong at least with that wire. The reducer will get super hot, position it far as possible from anything combustible.
Install a battery cutoff handy from driver seat and carry a fire extinguisher. Your first indicator will be an unexpected odor that something got too hot, then smoke. Have fun , safety is over rated 🤣
I’m just curious how do I jump start my 6 volt positive ground 52 custom line?
Hot to hot, ground to generator bracket of other car.
Would you use a different reducer for switch/knob lights?
It would be easier to change the light bulbs than add a big amp style reducer
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop cool that’s what I was hoping for
Do you have a source for an original style wiring harness for a 53 F100. I want the original look, not Painless etc..
Sacramento vintage Ford has them in cloth or polyvinyl
I WISH YOU HAD MENTIONED IF THE CAR IS NOW 12 VOLT POSITIVE GROUND ?? AS IT WAS 6 VOLT POSITIVE GROUND ORIGINALLY. YOU DID NOT MENTION THE 6 VOLT RADIO - CLOCK - FUEL SENDER OR TELL PEOPLE TO CHANGE ALL OTHER LIGHT BULBS ... JUST WONDERING
I have multiple videos explaining changing the bulbs, changing the alternators, adding voltage reducers, this video was strictly about the gauges
Plastic? In 1940? Hmmm.
You guys need to quit pushing that. Classic cars should be kept STOCK. No Chevy engines in cars that aren't Chevys, no disk brakes in cars that never offered disks, no rack and pinion, no 12 volts. They should be STOCK. PS: Just use an 8 volt battery if you think you need more power. All you have to do is re-adjust the regulator. Everything else is fine as is. That is much better than altering a classic car.
I never tell anyone what to do with their cars, I only give people options. Also you might now like my page if you think 12 volt conversions are excessive, I literally chop cars roofs off
Check out this 1955 Chevy we chopped ua-cam.com/users/livehscV7Uu2nyc?feature=share
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Disgusting. Now on a late 70s or early 80s car, which is still rear drive and V8 powered, might be sweet, but on a real collector car? Shouldn't be done.
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Why don't you guys start suggesting 8 volt batteries? After all, it would just be a suggestion, right?
@@jamesbosworth4191 oh well, built and chopped 30-40 cars already, probably have a lot more to do