My Metro Liner took a spill months ago and the motor never regained consciousness. I took it apart and back together thinking I had it. No luck. I think what you have found here is what I need to do as well. Thanks, man!
An easy way to test the internal motor on it's own without any equipment would be to just hold up a 9v battery to the back of the motor. I've seen folks swap in motors from PF train motors. If it is a problem with the thermal fuse you can just bypass it. A lot of times these protections are in place out of an abundance of caution and in case a kid does something crazy with them 😅. Glad to help in any way I can to get that motor back to life!
I've always wondered what these looked like inside, thanks for showing! I think i still have mine somewhere, it hasn't ran in years. Well if it doesn't work I know what to check for!
@@jensschroder8214yes absolutely a Polly fuse some of the other Lego motors used in ones in more common packages that look like a small ceramic disc capacitor you see these a lot in battery powered devices otherwise as well and also in the 94 power function does battery boxes there is a surface mount version of these used as well by the way in the original battery boxes for the 4.5 volt system the letter generations of them that is in the gray era of things as in the gray train tracks after the blue era. Those more modern 4.5 volt battery boxes including the 4.5 volt battery rod used initially in expert Builder later on refer to as Technic sets add a similar designed resettable fuse it was a disc much like this but possibly larger? Even the older battery box that was the one with the switch on top oftentimes in the old Universal sets in motor packs such as the universal motor set Hades as well I do remember the old 4.5 volt Trane in the gray era as far as I know did not have a overcurrent protection device like this if I remember correctly. Correct this if wrong please this is the only battery box I'm not sure on or should I say battery car the blue and black one is the one specifically referring to. Yes I had the old 4.5 W transmission it was kind of cool and still remember using that motor as a universal motor even before I had other Lego electrical components one spilled a little engine shed and had the battery box car standing by on a non-working siding just for show and providing lights inside besides convenient way to hide the batteries at that time I didn't even really have a suitable power source and of course still keeping things 100 Lego later on I used one of the battery rods as a tank of some sort on a structure worked out pretty nice integrating something functional into something as part of the structure is kind of next level for me at least at that time have gone much past this
I really like these repair videos, I don’t know a whole lot about small electronics, so your videos really help out. Oh yea, I like the “Back to the Future” reference you snuck in there!😂
Get a 'spudger' (yes it's a real thing.) They are great for getting into things held with tabs. I have never taken a Lego motor apart, but I used them in many other things held with tabs and usually you can separate parts without cutting tabs.
Great content, the "This Old House" of Lego Trains, like the video I found of you repairing the wires that all the old insulation cracks off of that led me to your channel a few years ago. That motor seemed to pull quite a few cars once you fixed it. Are the wheels in your trains modified at all? Bearings or lubricant? All my trains are metal axle and run fairly well but it feels liek the limit is pulling 4 full size cars before slippage or possible straining of the motor
There's nothing special about the cars I'm pulling in the video, just standard metal axle wheels. When it comes to wheel slip the weight of the locomotive is very important, along with a few other factors. I have a video coming soon where I've been adding Pf motors to my 9v locomotives to give them a bit more power / traction. It was amazing to see the comparison with how much they can pull with the upgrade
@@BatteryPoweredBricks thanks for the reply, it will be interesting to see your results after the modifications. Sounds like it might be worthwhile for me to do on one engine at least so I can have a longer freight train. I know bearings are my best option but that's way too much cost and modifying from the original for me. I can't understand why LEGO didn't use bearings! The "official" sets all looked incomplete, including the "My Own Train" which got the closest. I used to buy Bachman N scale cars at the toy store for less than $10 and those bearings are all working fine 30 years later. Maybe it was more of a safety issue than cost concern. The Train LUG in my area is pulling thirty 8 wide cars with their engines and bearings, it is really cool to see.
14:09 You're right, I run into the same situation very often, when looking for specific information on the internet. There is also a lot of information hidden behind the walls of social media platforms, that google can't find.
2 місяці тому+2
Scepticism of web wisdom asside 😊 As an adult who takes responsibility for my own actions, I simply remove the disc and reassemble the shell with a bit of black electrical tape, as it blends in. No sacrificial motor parts needed and easy to reopen if needed. I have done this with all of mine and not a single problem since.
You don't need to cut the clips. It will be a bit harder to pry it open, but it will open up without braking any or just a few pins. That way you can close the motor again much better. I did that with all of my ten 9V motors and didn't brake even one pin. Also I replaced the internal motors with power function ones, because mine were all weak. Now they run perfect again.^^
Yep! I felt pretty dumb when I found your video on the subject after the fact (Again UA-cam search sucks or I may have seen it earlier). The video is quite long to watch with auto translated subtitles but I did pick up a few tips scrolling through. I wish I could get my hands on more broken motors to gain more experience with them.
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Yeah, unfortunately broken motors get pretty rare too these days. Haven't seen one on ebay or bricklink for a few month now. 😮💨
I did manage to open mine without cutting the clips 🥵
2 місяці тому+3
Interesting.. I must have missed that video way back when... I just trimmed the protruding parts until things started loosening up. I guess that's why they still have some friction hold, and only require a bit of tape for the ones that I tend to pick up and handle a lot.
Thanks! I try to make things entertaining but it will almost always take a back seat to being informative. Good to know I've managed both with this one 😁
Ive got a few Power Functions motors where that disk is the failure point but i cant figure out where or what to buy to replace it. anyone know what the dangers are if i just eliminate the disk?
It prevents damage by over current in the motor. This device is designed to heat and reduce the current if over a certain threshold, then when it cools down the current will flow normally. You can remove it but you must be sure your power supply is reliable and won't produce an over current. You can replace it with any equivalent polyfuse, welding it properly. I should check which current threshold is needed.
I've talked to many people who just bypassed the thermal fuse. I probably would have done that if I did not have access to a replacement. It does make me wonder when / if it could be an issue. If it just prevents damage from abuse or if it would actually ever be needed in normal operation
Hey BPB, after watching this video I decided to take a look at a motor I have been having problems with. I put it on the track and it kind of sputters along for a bit then ultimately stops going. Just wondering if you would have any ideas as to where the issue is coming from
Most of the time sputtering just means the tracks are dirty (remember it's the inside lip of the rails not the tops). I often just run a train on full or close to full speed and push it when it stops. After a few minutes it will start running better and better as the tracks "self clean". If you still have issues like that it could be something internal to the motor, which could be a few things
@@BatteryPoweredBricks I have other motors that run perfectly fine on the exact same track, at first I was thinking maybe the connections that contact the inside of the wheels that deliver power to the motor may have been bent back so I adjusted them and that did not really do much of anything. Might just be doomed to my bin of 9v trains never to return again...
If that's the case it's very likely it's the thermal fuse like the motor in this video. Most people just bypass it and throw it away. I can't say if it would ever really be needed in everyday operation, maybe during the very long running sessions the motor could heat up enough for the fuse to slow it down to protect it 🤷♂️
@@WojciechGruza yep Starmachine2000 has been a staple for quite some time as the outro, they are the real heroes allowing their music to be used on UA-cam 😁. I've done several videos with their other songs as well
huh i didnt know 9v motors ran this fast... will def have to see on how to repair mine or get some more.. (I've only gotten one that's super duper old..)
That's a good deal! I have seen people drill a hole and add a technic pin but I think I'd just use them for small switcher or other locomotives that wouldn't need them like the 4559
Yep, I have seen the same results when I was researching to fix mine. Lego assembled it without glue, and tabs, so I decided to just wing it, it was harder than cutting, the plastic has some flex, pushing the tabs and wedging the seem feeling like you need 3 hands, you might snap a tab accidentally though.
I could have just done that but I wanted to see if I could find a replacement for the fuse. If it ever saves me from burning up the motor somehow it will have been worth it 🤷♂️
@@BatteryPoweredBricks all honestly you’re not really gonna burn up the motor unless you’re pulling really heavy trains with just one motor. it seems more and more these fuses go bad after a long time. I currently have a collection of about 14 or 16 of these motors. When the motors do go bad, you can take the motors out of the newer RC/power functions versions and swap them with some simple soldering 😎👍
My Metro Liner took a spill months ago and the motor never regained consciousness. I took it apart and back together thinking I had it. No luck. I think what you have found here is what I need to do as well. Thanks, man!
An easy way to test the internal motor on it's own without any equipment would be to just hold up a 9v battery to the back of the motor. I've seen folks swap in motors from PF train motors. If it is a problem with the thermal fuse you can just bypass it. A lot of times these protections are in place out of an abundance of caution and in case a kid does something crazy with them 😅. Glad to help in any way I can to get that motor back to life!
I've always wondered what these looked like inside, thanks for showing! I think i still have mine somewhere, it hasn't ran in years. Well if it doesn't work I know what to check for!
This was an excellent video, I'm sure it will be helpful for people needing to do the same with their 9v motors (but watch the full vid!).
You realize you're not alone as you sit in your bedroom massaging your calves after a long day of playing tug-of-war with Grandpa Joe in the hospital.
While all her friends were positive that Mary had a sixth sense, she knew she actually had a seventh sense.
2:05 So before I watch the whole video, I guess it's the thermistor plate?
Polyfuse !
@@jensschroder8214yes absolutely a Polly fuse some of the other Lego motors used in ones in more common packages that look like a small ceramic disc capacitor you see these a lot in battery powered devices otherwise as well and also in the 94 power function does battery boxes there is a surface mount version of these used as well by the way in the original battery boxes for the 4.5 volt system the letter generations of them that is in the gray era of things as in the gray train tracks after the blue era.
Those more modern 4.5 volt battery boxes including the 4.5 volt battery rod used initially in expert Builder later on refer to as Technic sets add a similar designed resettable fuse it was a disc much like this but possibly larger?
Even the older battery box that was the one with the switch on top oftentimes in the old Universal sets in motor packs such as the universal motor set Hades as well I do remember the old 4.5 volt Trane in the gray era as far as I know did not have a overcurrent protection device like this if I remember correctly.
Correct this if wrong please this is the only battery box I'm not sure on or should I say battery car the blue and black one is the one specifically referring to.
Yes I had the old 4.5 W transmission it was kind of cool and still remember using that motor as a universal motor even before I had other Lego electrical components one spilled a little engine shed and had the battery box car standing by on a non-working siding just for show and providing lights inside besides convenient way to hide the batteries at that time I didn't even really have a suitable power source and of course still keeping things 100 Lego later on I used one of the battery rods as a tank of some sort on a structure worked out pretty nice integrating something functional into something as part of the structure is kind of next level for me at least at that time have gone much past this
As he waited for the shower to warm, he noticed that he could hear water change temperature.
In the end, he realized he could see sound and hear words.
I really like these repair videos, I don’t know a whole lot about small electronics, so your videos really help out. Oh yea, I like the “Back to the Future” reference you snuck in there!😂
You have no idea how many years I've been waiting for someone to get that reference 😅
Get a 'spudger' (yes it's a real thing.) They are great for getting into things held with tabs. I have never taken a Lego motor apart, but I used them in many other things held with tabs and usually you can separate parts without cutting tabs.
Great content, the "This Old House" of Lego Trains, like the video I found of you repairing the wires that all the old insulation cracks off of that led me to your channel a few years ago. That motor seemed to pull quite a few cars once you fixed it. Are the wheels in your trains modified at all? Bearings or lubricant? All my trains are metal axle and run fairly well but it feels liek the limit is pulling 4 full size cars before slippage or possible straining of the motor
There's nothing special about the cars I'm pulling in the video, just standard metal axle wheels. When it comes to wheel slip the weight of the locomotive is very important, along with a few other factors. I have a video coming soon where I've been adding Pf motors to my 9v locomotives to give them a bit more power / traction. It was amazing to see the comparison with how much they can pull with the upgrade
@@BatteryPoweredBricks thanks for the reply, it will be interesting to see your results after the modifications. Sounds like it might be worthwhile for me to do on one engine at least so I can have a longer freight train. I know bearings are my best option but that's way too much cost and modifying from the original for me. I can't understand why LEGO didn't use bearings! The "official" sets all looked incomplete, including the "My Own Train" which got the closest. I used to buy Bachman N scale cars at the toy store for less than $10 and those bearings are all working fine 30 years later. Maybe it was more of a safety issue than cost concern. The Train LUG in my area is pulling thirty 8 wide cars with their engines and bearings, it is really cool to see.
Something I'm not into for my tracks, but still it entertained me a lot. Great video 🎉
14:09 You're right, I run into the same situation very often, when looking for specific information on the internet. There is also a lot of information hidden behind the walls of social media platforms, that google can't find.
Scepticism of web wisdom asside 😊 As an adult who takes responsibility for my own actions, I simply remove the disc and reassemble the shell with a bit of black electrical tape, as it blends in. No sacrificial motor parts needed and easy to reopen if needed. I have done this with all of mine and not a single problem since.
We are all something, but none of us are everything.
You don't need to cut the clips. It will be a bit harder to pry it open, but it will open up without braking any or just a few pins. That way you can close the motor again much better. I did that with all of my ten 9V motors and didn't brake even one pin. Also I replaced the internal motors with power function ones, because mine were all weak. Now they run perfect again.^^
Yep! I felt pretty dumb when I found your video on the subject after the fact (Again UA-cam search sucks or I may have seen it earlier). The video is quite long to watch with auto translated subtitles but I did pick up a few tips scrolling through. I wish I could get my hands on more broken motors to gain more experience with them.
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Yeah, unfortunately broken motors get pretty rare too these days. Haven't seen one on ebay or bricklink for a few month now. 😮💨
I did manage to open mine without cutting the clips 🥵
Interesting.. I must have missed that video way back when... I just trimmed the protruding parts until things started loosening up. I guess that's why they still have some friction hold, and only require a bit of tape for the ones that I tend to pick up and handle a lot.
We may encounter many defeats but we must not be defeated.
Great video, this is super helpful in case I need to do this in the future!!
Very interesting. I know next to nothing about motors, but I enjoyed this video. Have a good week!
Thanks! I try to make things entertaining but it will almost always take a back seat to being informative. Good to know I've managed both with this one 😁
Thank you so much for this video! It helped me fix a motor with the same issue.
Glad I could help!
Ive got a few Power Functions motors where that disk is the failure point but i cant figure out where or what to buy to replace it. anyone know what the dangers are if i just eliminate the disk?
It prevents damage by over current in the motor. This device is designed to heat and reduce the current if over a certain threshold, then when it cools down the current will flow normally. You can remove it but you must be sure your power supply is reliable and won't produce an over current.
You can replace it with any equivalent polyfuse, welding it properly. I should check which current threshold is needed.
I've talked to many people who just bypassed the thermal fuse. I probably would have done that if I did not have access to a replacement. It does make me wonder when / if it could be an issue. If it just prevents damage from abuse or if it would actually ever be needed in normal operation
Hey BPB, after watching this video I decided to take a look at a motor I have been having problems with. I put it on the track and it kind of sputters along for a bit then ultimately stops going. Just wondering if you would have any ideas as to where the issue is coming from
Most of the time sputtering just means the tracks are dirty (remember it's the inside lip of the rails not the tops). I often just run a train on full or close to full speed and push it when it stops. After a few minutes it will start running better and better as the tracks "self clean". If you still have issues like that it could be something internal to the motor, which could be a few things
@@BatteryPoweredBricks I have other motors that run perfectly fine on the exact same track, at first I was thinking maybe the connections that contact the inside of the wheels that deliver power to the motor may have been bent back so I adjusted them and that did not really do much of anything. Might just be doomed to my bin of 9v trains never to return again...
If that's the case it's very likely it's the thermal fuse like the motor in this video. Most people just bypass it and throw it away. I can't say if it would ever really be needed in everyday operation, maybe during the very long running sessions the motor could heat up enough for the fuse to slow it down to protect it 🤷♂️
I fixed a cheap "parts only" 9V motor from eBay this same way
Wintergatan on the end of film, nice :D
@@WojciechGruza yep Starmachine2000 has been a staple for quite some time as the outro, they are the real heroes allowing their music to be used on UA-cam 😁. I've done several videos with their other songs as well
Fantastic repair job! Loved it. I alway watch your channel. LDCC in the future will be fun.
huh i didnt know 9v motors ran this fast... will def have to see on how to repair mine or get some more.. (I've only gotten one that's super duper old..)
Great video, thank you as always!
I recently bought 2 Lego 9 volt motors without the big pin but working for 25 euro and they were working
That's a good deal! I have seen people drill a hole and add a technic pin but I think I'd just use them for small switcher or other locomotives that wouldn't need them like the 4559
I did with a dutch Ns sik ( a small yellow shunter from the netherlands) and the tender of the 7777
I Have fixed a 9volt motor before you don't need to cut the clips, you can slowly wedge them loose, it takes time and some cursing.
The first few hits I found when researching said to cut the tabs. The next motor I take apart I will for sure try without cutting them
Yep, I have seen the same results when I was researching to fix mine. Lego assembled it without glue, and tabs, so I decided to just wing it, it was harder than cutting, the plastic has some flex, pushing the tabs and wedging the seem feeling like you need 3 hands, you might snap a tab accidentally though.
just remove the fuse
I could have just done that but I wanted to see if I could find a replacement for the fuse. If it ever saves me from burning up the motor somehow it will have been worth it 🤷♂️
@@BatteryPoweredBricks all honestly you’re not really gonna burn up the motor unless you’re pulling really heavy trains with just one motor. it seems more and more these fuses go bad after a long time. I currently have a collection of about 14 or 16 of these motors. When the motors do go bad, you can take the motors out of the newer RC/power functions versions and swap them with some simple soldering 😎👍