Great video, very helpful. I purchased the 720p wolverine a few years ago and almost from the start it was making the film output very jumpy. I had given up on it. Then your video popped up and running the film into a rubbish bin rather than using the take up reel solved that problem of the jumping output. Amazing !! I cant thank you enough. Keep on digitizing!
Your "Move the leader our of the hold-down pin" advice is one of the most important things I learned when transferring my videos. I figured it out on my own--the hard way! I wish I'd seen your video first!
Mr. Brown - Love the videos. Thank you for making them. I'm wondering if you could offer some advice on my quest.... I plan to digitize my father's home movies (8mm standard and super 8, no audio) and leave them in their default Wolverine output files for future generations to apply AI editing to them if they wish. About 6 years ago I enjoyed restoring the family "highlight reels"; Christmas Eve movies and numerous large family gatherings on special occasions. I learned what you've shown in your Wolverine settings; take frame pictures larger than the frame picture. What I'm wondering is if there's a simple video app that allows one to adjust the speed while viewing the Wolverine file. Something anyone could use without having to go through an editor software. I've got the 1st gen Wolverine with the belt which is set to 30 fps which makes it difficult to preview. Daryl Hanson
Hi Daryl, I don’t know of any app which can do any of your desired tasks. If you simply want to archive your movies for future generations, and then leave the editing to whomever, then here’s what I suggest. Just set the correct frame rate and call it a day. Believe me, I'm well aware of how daunting and time consuming editing and restoration is. You can download the free version of DaVinci Resolve where you can quickly change your movies to their correct frame rates. You don’t need to do any editing. DaVinci defaults to 24 fps (frames per second). Just simply change the setting to the correct frame rate, that’s 16fps for Regular8 and 18 fps for Super8, unless you know some were 24 fps. That way they will look normal because they were set to the original speeds. Most people usually shot S8 at 18fps. Once you set the correct frame rate, simply render it as is. Indicate the frame rate in the title. For example, “1964 Zoo Vacation - 16fps.” That way the person, who eventually edits them, or some future AI app, will know what to do. Most generations today won’t even know what 8mm is, let alone the frame rate. Daryl, I hope this helps. I too did my movies for future generations. I’m lucky enough to have the skills to fully edit them. What you want to do is a great idea, render them for archive and leave the editing to the future.
Will it matter to a future "restorer" what file type they are starting with? Would they be better off with the least processed file as their starting point? For example, I used Facebook's private group feature to share the "highlight reels" which I had edited with Wondershare, I believe. So I have files from various editing stages whereas the best my relatives would have access to is whatever Facebook has saved them as during the uploading process.
You’re always better off with an unprocessed master file, which is what I did. If you did that, whoever processes it won’t have to try and undo whatever you did, they could start from scratch. As a master copy, you wouldn’t even need to set the correct frame rate. Just place the info in the title, “Family Beach Party_1964_720p_16fps.” All of your most needed info is in the title. That’s how I saved all of my original unedited files. The Wolverine renders its digital files as MP4’s. Just keep it that way. Someone could always change it later. I usually render my final movies as WAV files; however, MP4 works just fine and won’t be going away anytime soon. Facebook will super compress your movies, which will make them almost impossible to later process. Their compression strips out way too much useful data. I save my stuff in three ways, an SSD backup drive, Google Drive and CrashPlan (online backup service for everything in my computer). If you have a Google account (free), you already have enough of their free data space to upload and store all of your master copies (and edited copies). Dropbox is also a good option.
FYI - My recent re-engagement in this quest just began in earnest a few days ago: Day 1 - successfully stabilized and changed fps on a film using Shot Cut. Lots of tutorial videos that I don't have time to watch. My former self would have jumped at DaVinci but I was leery of getting drawn in to the fun, but endless process editing experimentation. Day 2 - came across your videos that provide a template to the process. Day 3 - cleaned Wolverine's gooey belt & gear assembly; taking preventative steps to avoid overheating. Day 4 (maybe today) - download DaVinci and see how my PC handles it (one reviewer had sounded a cautionary note about response time - my desktop PC isn't anything special).
I hope in the next few years, like happend the film photography world, gets enough people doing and recovering 8mm and someone manufacture a machine that help us scan 8mm with our fancy 8k mirrorless full frame sensor in a easy way and skiping the framerate problem. It's a pitty we have extremely good sensors everywhere, and no way to make a good scan of 8mm.
There are some great 8mm digitizers out there but they are cost prohibitive for 99% of us. A digital camera would definitely take better pictures than a standard digitizer but it would take forever because it would still have to take one frame at a time.
AI is pretty good at filling gaps in images... might be a good use case to fill sprocket hole on super 8... maybe get a bit more info off the film... if that matters. of course this gonna require scanning the film differently.
I scan my movies where you can see the sprocket holes. The black curtains on the sides covers those holes; therefore, the holes are there. The AI in Photoshop can fill those sprocket holes with generative fill but that program only deals with single images. The film/video editing software, such as DaVinci Resolve, would have to add that feature. I suspect they have no motivation to add such a feature. I agree with you, t hat would be a great feature. Thanks for your thoughts,
Great video, very helpful. I purchased the 720p wolverine a few years ago and almost from the start it was making the film output very jumpy.
I had given up on it. Then your video popped up and running the film into a rubbish bin rather than using the take up reel solved that problem
of the jumping output. Amazing !! I cant thank you enough. Keep on digitizing!
Awesome, glad the video helped you out.
Your "Move the leader our of the hold-down pin" advice is one of the most important things I learned when transferring my videos. I figured it out on my own--the hard way! I wish I'd seen your video first!
Absolutely! Great advice!
Nice video for transferring 8mm film to MP4.
Mr. Brown - Love the videos. Thank you for making them. I'm wondering if you could offer some advice on my quest.... I plan to digitize my father's home movies (8mm standard and super 8, no audio) and leave them in their default Wolverine output files for future generations to apply AI editing to them if they wish. About 6 years ago I enjoyed restoring the family "highlight reels"; Christmas Eve movies and numerous large family gatherings on special occasions. I learned what you've shown in your Wolverine settings; take frame pictures larger than the frame picture. What I'm wondering is if there's a simple video app that allows one to adjust the speed while viewing the Wolverine file. Something anyone could use without having to go through an editor software. I've got the 1st gen Wolverine with the belt which is set to 30 fps which makes it difficult to preview.
Daryl Hanson
Hi Daryl, I don’t know of any app which can do any of your desired tasks. If you simply want to archive your movies for future generations, and then leave the editing to whomever, then here’s what I suggest. Just set the correct frame rate and call it a day. Believe me, I'm well aware of how daunting and time consuming editing and restoration is. You can download the free version of DaVinci Resolve where you can quickly change your movies to their correct frame rates. You don’t need to do any editing. DaVinci defaults to 24 fps (frames per second). Just simply change the setting to the correct frame rate, that’s 16fps for Regular8 and 18 fps for Super8, unless you know some were 24 fps. That way they will look normal because they were set to the original speeds. Most people usually shot S8 at 18fps. Once you set the correct frame rate, simply render it as is. Indicate the frame rate in the title. For example, “1964 Zoo Vacation - 16fps.” That way the person, who eventually edits them, or some future AI app, will know what to do. Most generations today won’t even know what 8mm is, let alone the frame rate. Daryl, I hope this helps. I too did my movies for future generations. I’m lucky enough to have the skills to fully edit them. What you want to do is a great idea, render them for archive and leave the editing to the future.
Will it matter to a future "restorer" what file type they are starting with? Would they be better off with the least processed file as their starting point? For example, I used Facebook's private group feature to share the "highlight reels" which I had edited with Wondershare, I believe. So I have files from various editing stages whereas the best my relatives would have access to is whatever Facebook has saved them as during the uploading process.
You’re always better off with an unprocessed master file, which is what I did. If you did that, whoever processes it won’t have to try and undo whatever you did, they could start from scratch. As a master copy, you wouldn’t even need to set the correct frame rate. Just place the info in the title, “Family Beach Party_1964_720p_16fps.” All of your most needed info is in the title. That’s how I saved all of my original unedited files. The Wolverine renders its digital files as MP4’s. Just keep it that way. Someone could always change it later. I usually render my final movies as WAV files; however, MP4 works just fine and won’t be going away anytime soon.
Facebook will super compress your movies, which will make them almost impossible to later process. Their compression strips out way too much useful data. I save my stuff in three ways, an SSD backup drive, Google Drive and CrashPlan (online backup service for everything in my computer). If you have a Google account (free), you already have enough of their free data space to upload and store all of your master copies (and edited copies). Dropbox is also a good option.
FYI - My recent re-engagement in this quest just began in earnest a few days ago: Day 1 - successfully stabilized and changed fps on a film using Shot Cut. Lots of tutorial videos that I don't have time to watch. My former self would have jumped at DaVinci but I was leery of getting drawn in to the fun, but endless process editing experimentation. Day 2 - came across your videos that provide a template to the process. Day 3 - cleaned Wolverine's gooey belt & gear assembly; taking preventative steps to avoid overheating. Day 4 (maybe today) - download DaVinci and see how my PC handles it (one reviewer had sounded a cautionary note about response time - my desktop PC isn't anything special).
I beg your pardon. I just realized I need not fret regarding the belt per your trash can advice.
I hope in the next few years, like happend the film photography world, gets enough people doing and recovering 8mm and someone manufacture a machine that help us scan 8mm with our fancy 8k mirrorless full frame sensor in a easy way and skiping the framerate problem.
It's a pitty we have extremely good sensors everywhere, and no way to make a good scan of 8mm.
There are some great 8mm digitizers out there but they are cost prohibitive for 99% of us. A digital camera would definitely take better pictures than a standard digitizer but it would take forever because it would still have to take one frame at a time.
AI is pretty good at filling gaps in images... might be a good use case to fill sprocket hole on super 8... maybe get a bit more info off the film... if that matters. of course this gonna require scanning the film differently.
I scan my movies where you can see the sprocket holes. The black curtains on the sides covers those holes; therefore, the holes are there. The AI in Photoshop can fill those sprocket holes with generative fill but that program only deals with single images. The film/video editing software, such as DaVinci Resolve, would have to add that feature. I suspect they have no motivation to add such a feature. I agree with you, t hat would be a great feature. Thanks for your thoughts,
@@theaterdude you can always use numbered image sequences to work with video in Photoshop. Premiere is also getting same AI.
His eye looked scared