A detailed list of this information is available in the video description, along with corrections and notes. Big shout-outs and thanks to @prana2000, @Nacho_Nacho, @AdornThyHeadset, @GUSTAVO_TORRES & my wife Julie for pointing out needed areas of future improvements! Keep those critiques coming - how else do we learn?! Love to you all!
Very well done, and you included almost all modern substrates, good job ! I am excited to see more of this type of videos. Next time you could test active coal pellets too. I don't see anything in the Video description :s
Active coal/charcoal is now on the list for a future test! Thanks a bunch! There should be several corrections in the description (you might have to SHOW MORE to see them), but they're visible from this end. I'm so happy you're enjoying them, @Enty_Ropy!
For peat moss, if you want to measure properly it's water renention, it need to be pre moistened with hot water. This will accelarate the water absorption. Further, it's better to sift the dust and smaller particules out to use it and get the best out of it.
This is excellent content to help me decide on what to go with for a base bonsai mix. It seems like everyone has their own opinions, but it's great to see some actual facts based comparisons. I can't wait to see the other tests you do!
This is the best video on the web for deciding soil components. It leaves opinions and anecdotes behind and presents unadulterated fact. I love it. Thank you so much for the work you put in to make this information accessible. Keep em coming! Subbed!
I always appreciate a scientific approach to bonsai, especially on the complex topic of soils. maybe your experiments will spare me from having to test the same things.
Really great vid. I am trying to get into Bonsai... I have been collecting some specimens to this end. I have a 7 year plus lemon tree, an osage orange sprout, avocado, some kind of pine, a mexican poppy and a mulberry... so far, my ginko seeds have failed. I have collected some pots and other materials for making soil. I am doing everything with found materials, or thrift store flotsam. I haven't yet taken anything out of its regular soil... I want to make my soil from the get-go. I am thinking of using broken brick, pottery, lava rock, maybe broken-up limestone chips, I have some ash with borer rot that I want to try to use... maybe charcoal... and I have been trying to think of ways of turning cow manure into rock form... maybe through boiling with baking soda and firing it without air. I would also like to dig up local clay and fire that as well. I imagine there are several factors I will have to take into consideration... water retention, nutrient source, weight and ph. I imagine Mulberry to be a great primer in my experiments as it is hardy and proliferate... also, the osage orange, I believe is hardy as well, and the most rot resistant wood in North America. But the Osage Orange specimen I have sprouted out of some steps I put into a hugelkulture pumpkin patch bed that I made for a neighbor... it has a great form and strong sentimental value... so I am hesitant to experiment with it. Also, I keep red wrigglers and Bokashi compost... so I will amend my water with these. Oh, and I want to make standard in my plantings the use of moss... which I have obtained an aquarium to begin cultivating. Any advice anyone might have to offer would be greatly appreciated. Again, thanks for the great video. I have subscribed to your channel and given a thumbs-up to ... "praise the good..."
This is great info for houseplant growers also. I have been looking for this type of test for months and finally found you. Thank you!! Have you done the video on PH for each component??
I started to with this one & tried to knock out two birds with one video. However, my ph tester wasn't working well, so I didn't get that part filmed. I would like to do one, though.
I have been following you for several months now. Thank you for a very informative and clear analysis of water retention in bonsai soils. I have one doubt I would like for you to check, on you percentage calculation for pine bark. I ran you numbers and I get 33.3%, loss not 14.8. Thanks again.
You're 100% correct, Gustavo!! I had double checked my math over and again, and still got it wrong. 33g of water was retained initially, and it lost 11g afterwards. That's 33.33% loss (11g/33g = 33.33%). I had divided by the 74g overall weight, not the water weight. 11g/74g = 14.86%... sharp eyes, my friend! Thank you for triple checking and calling me out. Corrections and kudos in the comment section.
I just built one of those bucket stoves out of concrete and now I know what I can do with it! that clay baking deal is really cool. I like the idea of baking the clay, regular kitty litter just turns into concrete in the bottom of the pot sooner or later...
I already congratulated you for the tests. You had a brilliant idea. I now have a few questions regarding your protocol: What was the volume of each component? Why soaking the substrate for an hour? Would a minute or two be more representative of a normal big watering? Why have you chosen 105 minutes for the first weighting and 315 minutes for the second? I am asking you those question because I want to run similar tests using also chabazite so I can compare it with the other components (perlite, diatomaceous earth, kanuma, Turface MVP and expanded shale . I will try to measure the water loss every 15 minutes for 4 hours so I can draw charts. I will be more than happy to share the results. Best, Pierre
Lots of questions and answers!: - Approximate volume: 1/2 Cup (120mL). - I soaked the substrates to ensure each component was fully saturated. This just sets the stage from dry to fully wet. The hour was a simple base measurement. I fully soak all of my newly potted trees to prevent dry dead zones. Each subsequent watering just maintains moisture. - The length of time, as long as it is recorded, should give you enough information to deduce further information. The 105 and 315 minute marks were simply where I found the time to conduct the experiments. I stay extremely busy around my house. - Give the chabazite a try, I'd like to see what you've find out. If you have any of the components I did, give those a try at the same time. It may help you compare. And if you've got the time to test every 15 minutes for 4 hours (16X), you've more time than I do! Haha!! - I'm collecting a list of new soil components to test in the future, including zeolite. I'll put chabazite on the list, too!
Thank you ! I love tests like these and your glass selection was good. If possible, try out crushed brick pieces too. I believe in america, you can buy it from some garden shops, else crush enough for the test. i liked the rankings given in the description and your video could have been organized like a countdown - say, from 10 to 1 and show the full rankings at the end of the video. But you are now aware of it, judging by the comments. Good work ! Looking forward to the remaining parts. Will it be about drainage and aeration ? It would be great if you can touch upon the benefits / drawbacks of self watering bonsai and the role of substrate from that perspective. You have inspired me to finish my own documentary on pot design, which went into hibernation due to writers block, a general disinterest from my attention demanding plants and some life distractions. Restarting tonight. Script is half done.
Awesome! Hindsight is definitely 20-20 on this video. There will be a test on drainage/aeration after the next video, which is on freeze-thaw cycles - I had some very interesting results. Thanks for the suggestion on self-watering bonsai. I'll see where that can fit in current videos! I'll use the crushed brick in similar tests once I have enough new materials to justify the work. I'm still looking forward to the documentary, but understand the need for a break. Whew!
Wow. Exelent video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I use akadama 50%pomice 20%lava rock 20%. 10%. Pine Barck. For deciduous trees. But akadama is expensive material. I’ll try this year 25%akadama and 25% mvp turface. I’ll see what happens.
SW Virginia. My mix is Turface, Pine bark, Diatomaceous earth, and Sand. Ratio of 3:3:1:0.50 in order. Works well for all of my needs. Glad you found us!
What stops us from using straight up crushed bricks for growing bonsais? They have porous structure, they drain well too. Mixed with some soft organic soil it would do good for water retention too.
Yeah, I m from India. I find crushed bricks are very easily available here as compared to other materials like perlite or lava rocks or even akadama. I'm also experimenting with pieces of charcoal mixed with brick.
Thanks. Good job we have people like this because I would never have the patience. I would buy mine from a dealer who does all this kind of stuff for me, but I really find it interesting to listen to. Keep it up.
Great video and test! (And glasses!) My only suggestion would be to include a sort of summary at the end, perhaps just the numbered lists of which materials held the most water in each category.
Hey congrats for your videos. Great job. Can you please tell me what kind of soil mix do you use for your trees? Thnks a lot i would apreciate that. Congrats from Portugal.
Mostly Turface and diatomaceous earth, with a small amount of sifted pine bark. After these soil tests, I'll be removing the diatomaceous earth, and probably shifting to lava rock. It will require more watering. abraços
Very, very good even this test, very good video, I think that little by little is helping me to identify which will be the best substrate, better percentage of the mixture for the plant, more drainage or not, I think I'll give a suggestion of test ok?
They're all good for bonsai. Different trees and different climates and different countries have different soil needs. If you have a climate that gets below freezing, you might want to use something that doesn't pulverize after thawing. If you have a wet climate, you might choose something that doesn't absorb much water. If you climate is really dry, use something that retains moisture. This video is just allowing the viewer to see what is best for themselves, not necessarily describing what is absolutely best. I hope it's helpful.
What is your experience with zeolite? I found charcoal neither here nor there in my 30 years of playing with cactus /succulents' Bonsai & Tropicals , I've been using turface for about 20 years and I like how it works
What’s your opinion about using 20-30% vermiculite instead of 20-30% coir for a succulent potting mix ? I see that vermiculite retains far less water . But if it was mixed with pumice and turface , it might round itself out . I’m considering trying this because I keep getting fungus gnats with coir despite sterilization. I’m thinking vermiculite might be less attractive to pests in general. Thanks for the awesome vid. I’ve watched it many times . Very interesting 🤔
Appalachian Bonsai , Thanks ! I went ahead and ordered some . Ima try it . I now use 3 parts turface , 3 parts pumice and 2 parts coir . Gonna use the vermiculite instead of coir for a few . They like their current soil . But I occasionally get fungus gnats . The vermiculite might make the soil less tempting for pests . Thanks again for the awesome video. Your video helped me choose my soil components to start with last year 😊
This video is what I've been waiting for so long just wanted to know how it goes..I'm excited to try it ...cant wait to see some updates of your tees ...
I know this is an old video, but there is one additional error that was not corrected. Turface is NOT Leca, it is calcined clay. Leca is expanded clay, they are two different things.
Love the video. I just repotted a cheap indoor ficus bonsai, because the soil was very dense and cheap. I used a Zeolite and Pumice mixture but i wasn't sure if i had to add something :) maybe ill add a little bit of moss just incase
A very good video for comparing different types of Bonsai planting material. I am impressed that Bonsai are grown all over the world. I have to admit that I do not have any Bonsai plants even thought there are many Bonsai nurseries near my home. I am thinking about buying some small Bonsai.
I do like what he does there, but I kinda don't want to steal his thing. I've been keeping the tree updates as seasonal, but I'll see if I can find a good way to present them that doesn't step on Nigel's toes!
I don't think you'll be stepping on his toes as I'm sure most bonsai enthusiasts will/are subscribed to both of you however you can probably shoot him a message to see what he thinks. I enjoy watching all of your and Nigel's videos. Keep up the good work and all the great information that you put out.
Appalachian Bonsai i love watching both y’alls videos! I think your trees are very different just s impressionable. The work is just amazing and impressive, we would just like to see the progress to your great trees as well.
Hi Ben, I take my time to watch the video 2 to 3 times before comment, the work is excellent and very informative, thougth I had to write down all data to understand and compare. I think is a little confusing, you mention two ranks, the first one is for density of material, wich is not relevant to even make a rank, and might confuse with the water retention that is the main thing. Maybe in the end would have been good to have a chart or something. The most important is that I want to say thank you, I have all data and studied them a lot ! For future maybe you could make one of CIC with TDS measuring. Thanks again for sharing this, you are awesome
Thanks Nacho Nacho!! I definitely should have. My wife made the same point this evening when she got home from work. I'll make sure that I do this for the final soil assessment. All information and charts will be made available. In the meantime, I'll put this info into the description. The dry weight gave me a baseline for how much water was retained, but I agree, the ranking of weight separate from from water is confusing. Excellent critique. And what an awesome suggestion for the TDS measuring. I'll definitely get that going!!
Appalachian Bonsai Thank you! for all your work and effort in making this, and congrats for the 10.000! I Will share this video in WhatsApp and Facebook groups
That was the most precise approach to this kind of video that I have seen on UA-cam. Congratulations. That was very well done. Eagerly waiting for the next one. P.s: What the fuck was that black magic boiling water in the end of the video? xD
Very helpful video indeed, thanks! Just wonder if it is a mistake about pelite vs sand. It says they retain 14g and 12g of water respectively, quite similar, but the loss is about twice larger for sand - how can it be?!
I am uncertain as to exactly why, and can only speculate. It may do with the porosity of pumice, and it may have absorbed some water. Sand has little to no porosity, and that may be why it loses more water. Just my best guesses.
that "diatomaceous earth" looked like kitty litter which is primarily montmorillonite clay. I've typically seen diatomaceous earth as a very fine powder that is dead diatoms aka primarily silicon dioxide
Very nice video and presentation. One small note I'd like to address though is that, while they are markedly similar, calcined clay (which looks like what you used in this video) and diatomaceous earth are not the same thing, even though they have very similar properties. diatomaceous earth generally does not break down as easily as calcined clay (turface is also a type of calcined clay) and is made of fossils of diatoms (which gives it the name) two common sources of these are the napa and advanced autoparts oil absorption products, one uses diatomaceousmearth, the other is calcined clay.
You did a video about three years ago about transforming a dogwood tree into a bonsai. Can you tell me what were the soil components you used? It looked very rocky as if it had Acadama, and some type of gravel or chips. I am going out to find a Wisteria plant to turn into a bonsai and hopefully can find one about the same size as your dogwood.
I think it would be more practical if the mediums would have had the water stirred into them. The Petemoss/sphagnum would have probably tied for 1st or 2nd. That stuff retains a TON of H2O if you stir it up well.
Turface, Diatomaceous earth, coarse sand and pine bark have been my go to. with ~ 65:35 ratio, inorganic to organic. Veering away from diatom earth and more lava rock as available.
well done... methodological and data oriented. i read a few online discussions where turface or calcined clay has lost some favor in the bonsai world. i tend to favor pumice and lava rocks. what is your take?
Most of the debate on the downsides of Turface, or calcined clay, comes from Michael Hagerdorn of Crataegus Bonsai. He makes some very strong arguments against it. I've looked at ordering different aggregate components in the past, but it's been a while, so I should reconsider & try myself. Colin Lewis, who is a fine artist & someone I've had good contact with, discusses how Turface absorbs moisture & nutrients, so much so that it might cause root damage. He does say that it's likely minimal, and keep Turface ratio down to around 15%. I've personally never had an issue with it, and since I repot with fresh soil mixtures every two-three years, it's never been a problem. It's commonly used throughout the bonsai community. However, because these two professionals discuss it, it is worth considering and reviewing. When I have an opportunity this spring, I'll try some different mixtures & see what my results are.
I get it at a landscape & turf supply (The Turf & Gardening Store in Roanoke, VA). It's a drive to get it, but worth it. Check with your local school system, since it's often used on baseball fields. Find out where they get it from. If it's a distance, you might be able to order some through them, or buy it off them? I've never tried, but doesn't hurt to ask. Get the MVP. Some of the other stuff is just plain clay.
It does, and that depends on a couple of different factors. The first is the manufacturer of expanded shale. Some may be more porous than others, and that is the reason I also included the brand name (Stalite Permatill) in the description to give reference. The other, and this one's the bigger one, is that smaller particles retain more moisture than larger ones because of water's surface tension. Crushed expanded shale will definitely hold more than coarse expanded shale. I'll be discussing this in greater detail in a future video on drainage.
the inner poor structure is more accessible as well from what I was told. I take part of the large pieces and smash them up to mix with the rest. what flavor snowcone do feel works best for bonsai?
Half of my bonsai club uses it, and I know the NC Arboretum uses it for their mixtures. I'm only just now exploring, and this isn't the only test. It performed really well in another one, which you'll see next. Flavor of snowcone? Cherry! Soil mixture? It varies, and after looking at these tests, the health of my trees over the past many years in various combos, I'm fine tuning it more & more. My junipers loved the Turface/DE/pine bark mix their first year. They haven't liked it the second, and I believe it has to do with the deterioration of DE over time (to be shown). The deciduous, on the other hand, haven't had a problem.
Привет! Подскажи пожалуйста какой грунт ты используешь, что это за мелкие камни???У нас в России очень мало информации по субстрам. Везде пишут что надо использовать землю , там где выкопал растение, у меня ямадори растут с той землей с которой выкопал
Трудно сказать, как перевести их на русский. Хммм ... Я попробую перечислить их здесь и посмотреть, поймет ли перевод Google: кокосовое волокно, компост, торфяной мох, сосновая кора. Акадама (почва Японии), диатомовая земля (кошачья почва), гранитная щепа (курица), расширенный сланцы, лавовая скала (шлория), перлит, пемза, песок, легкий глинистый агрегат (ТУРФАС) и вермикулит. Многие из этих предметов могут быть недоступны для вас. Удостоверьтесь, что он хорошо стекает и не срывается с течением времени. У меня появилось видео с замораживанием-оттаиванием. Надеюсь, это поможет вам!
Appalachian Bonsai спасибо, большое, Google почти все нормально перевёл, но вы правы многого у нас нет, а конкретнее Акадамы, про нее я слышал, ну буду экспериментировать с Серамисом, спасибо ещё раз!)))))
Sorry Im late ... Im danish. Thanks for a very good video. Maybe I have lost something, but ..... I think its only show which material pic up most H2O and keep it. From my point of view it is more importent to show, which material easyly pics H2O, fertilasors and O2 up AND are willing to give it to the rots. Otherwise it will be a competion between soil and rots. I can have missed something?
Excellent questions! Roots don't like being wet, as it leads to rot (unless they're aquatic). What they prefer instead is a humid environment and fresh oxygen. The benefit of the soil material holding water is that it evaporates as they dry out which creates/maintains humidity in between watering. Good coarse soil mixes (as preferred in bonsai) allow excess water to drain quickly (which draws in the oxygen). You don't need much fertilizer for bonsai, only once every other week or so. And back to the coarse soil mixes, you are required to water frequently, which keeps the cycle fresh and clean. I hope that makes sense, and it's a balancing act that takes time to learn. Cheers, my friend!
Local plant nursery. Lowes. Home Depot. places like that. The bags I purchase are often called 'soil conditioner.' It's finely chopped, so I get at least 1/2 - 3/4 bag of useable material.
Yeah I thought you might say that. I live in New Brunswick, Canada and Pine Bark for Bonsai is VERY hard to find. And nobody here sells Soil Conditioner.
You could also try bark from other tree species. Dan Robinson of Washington State, USA uses fir bark. Mulch (or beauty bark) is another common place to get your bark, but you might not get as much useable material per bag. Just make sure you purchase natural, and not artificially colored, components.
Napa 8822 isn't related to calcined clay. It's DE, which is silica formed by dead algae. Are you using OIl-Dry, which *is* made of calcined clay? Only 8822 is made of DE. Thanks for the video!
You're absolutely right! How I missed that, I don't know. Thank you for double checking! I'll make sure to add a note in the description. I have used Oil-Dri when NAPA 8822 wasn't available. This may be the source of mixed up information.
It is not bad to use pea pebbles, as long as they are sifted to a small size. Like the granite chicken grit, they may be heavy, but they drain very well. Turface (LECA) is what they put on baseball fields, so you may ask your local high school where they get theirs from. If there's a landscape/gardening/turf store near you, several items like perlite, permatil & pumice may be available. Lowes often carries some of these items, though in smaller quantites. If they're not in bulk, you'll find them near the specialty items like orchid mix.
This test does not take into consideration how much air each media holds so although the test has shown me what the difference is between lava rock and pumice, there is little point to determine which media will perform best.. A table at the end to plot the results would have been useful, I spotted at least one mistake on the perlite, 22g dry to 37g wet = 15g retained, not 14g. But excellent video, thx for posting. I now know lava rock is heavy and pretty useless stuff, good for ornamental purposes only.
Yeah, there were a few mistakes made. Try. Fail. Try again! Thanks for keeping me in check. It's important. I hope to make some more of these types of tests in the future.
Well YOU probably sick of hearing this but I agree the best vid I have seen Very informative. I have subscribed to your channel. I look forward seeing other vid. Bob, Ontario, canada
Here in France we have some articles about it, it's not really known in fact, and bonsai people keep using akadama because it's still cheaper, even if it's coming from Japan ;) But the properties are just better.
Thank you for put the dates I description, Is very good. I'm so sorry for my verybad english I live in Cd Victoria tamaulipas México I like your channel Greetings
A detailed list of this information is available in the video description, along with corrections and notes. Big shout-outs and thanks to @prana2000, @Nacho_Nacho, @AdornThyHeadset, @GUSTAVO_TORRES & my wife Julie for pointing out needed areas of future improvements! Keep those critiques coming - how else do we learn?! Love to you all!
Very good video. Thanks for the info. New sub.
Very well done, and you included almost all modern substrates, good job !
I am excited to see more of this type of videos.
Next time you could test active coal pellets too.
I don't see anything in the Video description :s
What a wonderful video! You really do make CONSISTENTLY good bonsai videos. I like your work! 😊
Active coal/charcoal is now on the list for a future test! Thanks a bunch! There should be several corrections in the description (you might have to SHOW MORE to see them), but they're visible from this end. I'm so happy you're enjoying them, @Enty_Ropy!
Thanks @BackSeatHump! I hope to continue making them that way. Another within a week.... we hope!
This is one of the best videos comparing bonsai soil i have ever seen! Bravo! Good job!
Many thanks! I've some even more interesting tests coming up next! I enjoy your videos, too - keep 'em coming
Thank you very much! I am looking forward for the next video!
Agreed!
Great video, but I will give some constructive feedback. It would have been immensely helpful to see a summary table or graph at the end. Thanks!
totally agree is this available?
@@joet7678 I think one of us could do that, if we needed it... 🙂
For peat moss, if you want to measure properly it's water renention, it need to be pre moistened with hot water. This will accelarate the water absorption. Further, it's better to sift the dust and smaller particules out to use it and get the best out of it.
This is excellent content to help me decide on what to go with for a base bonsai mix. It seems like everyone has their own opinions, but it's great to see some actual facts based comparisons. I can't wait to see the other tests you do!
More coming soon, Mama!
This is the best video on the web for deciding soil components. It leaves opinions and anecdotes behind and presents unadulterated fact. I love it. Thank you so much for the work you put in to make this information accessible. Keep em coming! Subbed!
You have one of the best Bonsai channels, I love your style. I am currently binge watching all your Yamadori videos, I cant get enough.
Sweet! I hope they're helpful for you if & when you decide to collect. If you ever have questions, this channel is here for you, plus FB & Instagram.
superb research!! probably the best soil video I've seen! can't wait for part two! I like!!!
Fantastic! The tests for the next one (hinted at the end of this one) gave me some surprises. It's in edit now.
I always appreciate a scientific approach to bonsai, especially on the complex topic of soils. maybe your experiments will spare me from having to test the same things.
I hope so. There are some interesting ones coming up soon, and some suggestions have already come in for different one. Thanks, RH!
Really great vid. I am trying to get into Bonsai... I have been collecting some specimens to this end. I have a 7 year plus lemon tree, an osage orange sprout, avocado, some kind of pine, a mexican poppy and a mulberry... so far, my ginko seeds have failed. I have collected some pots and other materials for making soil. I am doing everything with found materials, or thrift store flotsam. I haven't yet taken anything out of its regular soil... I want to make my soil from the get-go. I am thinking of using broken brick, pottery, lava rock, maybe broken-up limestone chips, I have some ash with borer rot that I want to try to use... maybe charcoal... and I have been trying to think of ways of turning cow manure into rock form... maybe through boiling with baking soda and firing it without air. I would also like to dig up local clay and fire that as well.
I imagine there are several factors I will have to take into consideration... water retention, nutrient source, weight and ph. I imagine Mulberry to be a great primer in my experiments as it is hardy and proliferate... also, the osage orange, I believe is hardy as well, and the most rot resistant wood in North America. But the Osage Orange specimen I have sprouted out of some steps I put into a hugelkulture pumpkin patch bed that I made for a neighbor... it has a great form and strong sentimental value... so I am hesitant to experiment with it.
Also, I keep red wrigglers and Bokashi compost... so I will amend my water with these.
Oh, and I want to make standard in my plantings the use of moss... which I have obtained an aquarium to begin cultivating.
Any advice anyone might have to offer would be greatly appreciated. Again, thanks for the great video. I have subscribed to your channel and given a thumbs-up to ... "praise the good..."
This is great info for houseplant growers also. I have been looking for this type of test for months and finally found you. Thank you!! Have you done the video on PH for each component??
I started to with this one & tried to knock out two birds with one video. However, my ph tester wasn't working well, so I didn't get that part filmed. I would like to do one, though.
Awesome video breaking substrates down... i waited long for a video like this..
Thanks, Johan! I've another coming out (hopefully within a week) with some interesting results!
I have been following you for several months now. Thank you
for a very informative and clear analysis of water retention in bonsai soils. I
have one doubt I would like for you to check, on you percentage calculation for
pine bark. I ran you numbers and I get 33.3%, loss not 14.8. Thanks again.
You're 100% correct, Gustavo!! I had double checked my math over and again, and still got it wrong. 33g of water was retained initially, and it lost 11g afterwards. That's 33.33% loss (11g/33g = 33.33%). I had divided by the 74g overall weight, not the water weight. 11g/74g = 14.86%... sharp eyes, my friend! Thank you for triple checking and calling me out. Corrections and kudos in the comment section.
I just built one of those bucket stoves out of concrete and now I know what I can do with it! that clay baking deal is really cool. I like the idea of baking the clay, regular kitty litter just turns into concrete in the bottom of the pot sooner or later...
I already congratulated you for the tests. You had a brilliant idea. I now have a few questions regarding your protocol: What was the volume of each component? Why soaking the substrate for an hour? Would a minute or two be more representative of a normal big watering? Why have you chosen 105 minutes for the first weighting and 315 minutes for the second?
I am asking you those question because I want to run similar tests using also chabazite so I can compare it with the other components (perlite, diatomaceous earth, kanuma, Turface MVP and expanded shale . I will try to measure the water loss every 15 minutes for 4 hours so I can draw charts. I will be more than happy to share the results.
Best, Pierre
Lots of questions and answers!:
- Approximate volume: 1/2 Cup (120mL).
- I soaked the substrates to ensure each component was fully saturated. This just sets the stage from dry to fully wet. The hour was a simple base measurement. I fully soak all of my newly potted trees to prevent dry dead zones. Each subsequent watering just maintains moisture.
- The length of time, as long as it is recorded, should give you enough information to deduce further information. The 105 and 315 minute marks were simply where I found the time to conduct the experiments. I stay extremely busy around my house.
- Give the chabazite a try, I'd like to see what you've find out. If you have any of the components I did, give those a try at the same time. It may help you compare. And if you've got the time to test every 15 minutes for 4 hours (16X), you've more time than I do! Haha!!
- I'm collecting a list of new soil components to test in the future, including zeolite. I'll put chabazite on the list, too!
Wow, great comparisons! This is exacly what i was looking for. Thank you
Congrats on the 10,000. Good video and very helpful. Thanks
Thanks brother! See you in a couple of weeks!
Thank you ! I love tests like these and your glass selection was good. If possible, try out crushed brick pieces too. I believe in america, you can buy it from some garden shops, else crush enough for the test. i liked the rankings given in the description and your video could have been organized like a countdown - say, from 10 to 1 and show the full rankings at the end of the video. But you are now aware of it, judging by the comments. Good work ! Looking forward to the remaining parts. Will it be about drainage and aeration ? It would be great if you can touch upon the benefits / drawbacks of self watering bonsai and the role of substrate from that perspective. You have inspired me to finish my own documentary on pot design, which went into hibernation due to writers block, a general disinterest from my attention demanding plants and some life distractions. Restarting tonight. Script is half done.
Awesome! Hindsight is definitely 20-20 on this video. There will be a test on drainage/aeration after the next video, which is on freeze-thaw cycles - I had some very interesting results. Thanks for the suggestion on self-watering bonsai. I'll see where that can fit in current videos! I'll use the crushed brick in similar tests once I have enough new materials to justify the work.
I'm still looking forward to the documentary, but understand the need for a break. Whew!
I guess for succulent and cacti use, the less water retention the better. Please correct me if I am wrong. Thanks for the great video.
So as a beginner what mix would I start at? Great video and thanks for sharing your time and expertise!🙏🙏🙏
good show. now I have to watch it again and make notes when I have more time.
It's here for when you need it. I have some other testing videos coming up, and they'll be made into a playlist when finished.
Wow. Exelent video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I use akadama 50%pomice 20%lava rock 20%. 10%. Pine Barck. For deciduous trees. But akadama is expensive material. I’ll try this year 25%akadama and 25% mvp turface. I’ll see what happens.
New to the channel. This was excellent! Curious what part of Appalachia your in & best soil mix you've had luck with?
SW Virginia. My mix is Turface, Pine bark, Diatomaceous earth, and Sand. Ratio of 3:3:1:0.50 in order. Works well for all of my needs.
Glad you found us!
What stops us from using straight up crushed bricks for growing bonsais? They have porous structure, they drain well too. Mixed with some soft organic soil it would do good for water retention too.
Nothing stopping you. From what I understand, crushed brick is often used in India. Just make sure they're sifted.
Yeah, I m from India. I find crushed bricks are very easily available here as compared to other materials like perlite or lava rocks or even akadama. I'm also experimenting with pieces of charcoal mixed with brick.
Super video, I would love you advise now what to use or have you already made a video to suggest it ?
This is amazing, what a great job, had been looking for a video like this!
look forward to the future videos! i've just gotten into bonsai and this knowledge is very useful
Glad to know this is helpful!
Wonderful video mate. Very informative. I love it
Very good, informative & professionally made video.
Maybe a test of using lava rocks or the crushed granite mixed with mushroom compost, sand, and pine bark? that seems like it would be a great mixture
I'll give the combo a test in the mixture video! Great suggestion
Incredibly detailed video. I've always wanted to see such an experiment
Thanks. Good job we have people like this because I would never have the patience. I would buy mine from a dealer who does all this kind of stuff for me, but I really find it interesting to listen to. Keep it up.
Great video and test! (And glasses!) My only suggestion would be to include a sort of summary at the end, perhaps just the numbered lists of which materials held the most water in each category.
Good eye! My wife said the exact same thing this evening after she watched the video. We both kinda smacked our heads. Next video next video.
Thanks! I look forward to the rest of the series!
Hey congrats for your videos. Great job. Can you please tell me what kind of soil mix do you use for your trees? Thnks a lot i would apreciate that. Congrats from Portugal.
Mostly Turface and diatomaceous earth, with a small amount of sifted pine bark. After these soil tests, I'll be removing the diatomaceous earth, and probably shifting to lava rock. It will require more watering. abraços
Very interesting test, thank you for sharing this magnificent work. Greetings from Marbella, (Spain).
Very, very good even this test, very good video, I think that little by little is helping me to identify which will be the best substrate, better percentage of the mixture for the plant, more drainage or not, I think I'll give a suggestion of test ok?
Great information in a single video. May I know which is best for bonsai ?
They're all good for bonsai. Different trees and different climates and different countries have different soil needs. If you have a climate that gets below freezing, you might want to use something that doesn't pulverize after thawing. If you have a wet climate, you might choose something that doesn't absorb much water. If you climate is really dry, use something that retains moisture. This video is just allowing the viewer to see what is best for themselves, not necessarily describing what is absolutely best. I hope it's helpful.
Very informative. It would be worthwhile to test charcoal and zeolite. Thanks
What is your experience with zeolite? I found charcoal neither here nor there in my 30 years of playing with cactus /succulents' Bonsai & Tropicals , I've been using turface for about 20 years and I like how it works
@@GreenCanvasInteriorscape I recently added about 9 percent zeolite to my potting mix but did not notice any particular improvement in growth.
this is an amazing video. im not into bonsai but i make my own soil mixes. very helpful. ive come back to this video now a few times.
What’s your opinion about using 20-30% vermiculite instead of 20-30% coir for a succulent potting mix ? I see that vermiculite retains far less water . But if it was mixed with pumice and turface , it might round itself out . I’m considering trying this because I keep getting fungus gnats with coir despite sterilization. I’m thinking vermiculite might be less attractive to pests in general. Thanks for the awesome vid. I’ve watched it many times . Very interesting 🤔
The succulents might appreciate the drier soil with vermiculite, as many succulents don't do well in moist or damp soils (root rot).
Appalachian Bonsai , Thanks ! I went ahead and ordered some . Ima try it . I now use 3 parts turface , 3 parts pumice and 2 parts coir . Gonna use the vermiculite instead of coir for a few . They like their current soil . But I occasionally get fungus gnats . The vermiculite might make the soil less tempting for pests . Thanks again for the awesome video. Your video helped me choose my soil components to start with last year 😊
This video is what I've been waiting for so long just wanted to know how it goes..I'm excited to try it ...cant wait to see some updates of your tees ...
Thanks DC! I've got another one coming within week should all things go as planned.
Always a great topic. Well done for how you covered it
keep up the great videos. always looking forward to them
Thanks, JP. Another is on its way.
I know this is an old video, but there is one additional error that was not corrected. Turface is NOT Leca, it is calcined clay. Leca is expanded clay, they are two different things.
lovely presentation, simple & clear! Keep up the good work!
Love the video. I just repotted a cheap indoor ficus bonsai, because the soil was very dense and cheap. I used a Zeolite and Pumice mixture but i wasn't sure if i had to add something :)
maybe ill add a little bit of moss just incase
A very good video for comparing different types of Bonsai planting material. I am impressed that Bonsai are grown all over the world. I have to admit that I do not have any Bonsai plants even thought there are many Bonsai nurseries near my home. I am thinking about buying some small Bonsai.
you should update one of you trees every video like nigel saunders does its show the progression of your trees nicely
I do like what he does there, but I kinda don't want to steal his thing. I've been keeping the tree updates as seasonal, but I'll see if I can find a good way to present them that doesn't step on Nigel's toes!
I don't think you'll be stepping on his toes as I'm sure most bonsai enthusiasts will/are subscribed to both of you however you can probably shoot him a message to see what he thinks. I enjoy watching all of your and Nigel's videos. Keep up the good work and all the great information that you put out.
808danimal I agree i would love to see them
I don't think updating trees would be stealing his content. It's a pretty normal thing to do and not unique to him.
Appalachian Bonsai i love watching both y’alls videos! I think your trees are very different just s impressionable. The work is just amazing and impressive, we would just like to see the progress to your great trees as well.
great video. I don't grow bonsias but the test is great and very helpful. I grow orchids in inorganic media. Glad I found your channel ♥
Hi Ben, I take my time to watch the video 2 to 3 times before comment, the work is excellent and very informative, thougth I had to write down all data to understand and compare.
I think is a little confusing, you mention two ranks, the first one is for density of material, wich is not relevant to even make a rank, and might confuse with the water retention that is the main thing.
Maybe in the end would have been good to have a chart or something.
The most important is that I want to say thank you, I have all data and studied them a lot !
For future maybe you could make one of CIC with TDS measuring. Thanks again for sharing this, you are awesome
Thanks Nacho Nacho!! I definitely should have. My wife made the same point this evening when she got home from work. I'll make sure that I do this for the final soil assessment. All information and charts will be made available. In the meantime, I'll put this info into the description.
The dry weight gave me a baseline for how much water was retained, but I agree, the ranking of weight separate from from water is confusing. Excellent critique.
And what an awesome suggestion for the TDS measuring. I'll definitely get that going!!
Appalachian Bonsai Thank you! for all your work and effort in making this, and congrats for the 10.000! I Will share this video in WhatsApp and Facebook groups
Thank you for this thorough test!
Wow, you are thorough! Glad I found your channel. Very informative!👍
Thank you! More coming up this spring
That was the most precise approach to this kind of video that I have seen on UA-cam. Congratulations. That was very well done. Eagerly waiting for the next one.
P.s: What the fuck was that black magic boiling water in the end of the video? xD
Haha!! That was dry ice, which I used for the next tests. That video is coming out next... and hopefully soon... *sigh* summer
Very helpful video indeed, thanks!
Just wonder if it is a mistake about pelite vs sand. It says they retain 14g and 12g of water respectively, quite similar, but the loss is about twice larger for sand - how can it be?!
I am uncertain as to exactly why, and can only speculate. It may do with the porosity of pumice, and it may have absorbed some water. Sand has little to no porosity, and that may be why it loses more water. Just my best guesses.
that "diatomaceous earth" looked like kitty litter which is primarily montmorillonite clay. I've typically seen diatomaceous earth as a very fine powder that is dead diatoms aka primarily silicon dioxide
Very nice video and presentation. One small note I'd like to address though is that, while they are markedly similar, calcined clay (which looks like what you used in this video) and diatomaceous earth are not the same thing, even though they have very similar properties. diatomaceous earth generally does not break down as easily as calcined clay (turface is also a type of calcined clay) and is made of fossils of diatoms (which gives it the name) two common sources of these are the napa and advanced autoparts oil absorption products, one uses diatomaceousmearth, the other is calcined clay.
I used the NAPA 8822 for this video and not the Oil-Dri.
Awesome!!! Methodical, and sciency. Pretty nice.
Glad you liked it!
our Leca here in our country floats on water while the pumice won't very unlikely on these two components you've shown here. wondering why. =)
Hi this help me alot for starting here in the u.s. thank you. More power
You did a video about three years ago about transforming a dogwood tree into a bonsai. Can you tell me what were the soil components you used? It looked very rocky as if it had Acadama, and some type of gravel or chips. I am going out to find a Wisteria plant to turn into a bonsai and hopefully can find one about the same size as your dogwood.
Should be in the video description, but it's Turface, Pine Bark, Diatom Earth, and Sand. 3:3:2:1
Thank you very much for the informative video. I learned quite a bit.
So, if I am growing bonsai trees in coco coir and they are seedlings right now how often should I water them?
Just make sure they don't dry out. If the coir is still pretty damp, leave it alone. Overwater kills trees too, just over a longer period of time.
Great video, I'm just starting out so very informative. Thanks.
I hope the rest are also helpful in your bonsai journey!
I think it would be more practical if the mediums would have had the water stirred into them. The Petemoss/sphagnum would have probably tied for 1st or 2nd. That stuff retains a TON of H2O if you stir it up well.
please make a video on heat rentention and temperature rise of different media in full sun...
what is your preferred bonsai soil mixture. thank you
Turface, Diatomaceous earth, coarse sand and pine bark have been my go to. with ~ 65:35 ratio, inorganic to organic. Veering away from diatom earth and more lava rock as available.
well done... methodological and data oriented. i read a few online discussions where turface or calcined clay has lost some favor in the bonsai world. i tend to favor pumice and lava rocks. what is your take?
Most of the debate on the downsides of Turface, or calcined clay, comes from Michael Hagerdorn of Crataegus Bonsai. He makes some very strong arguments against it. I've looked at ordering different aggregate components in the past, but it's been a while, so I should reconsider & try myself. Colin Lewis, who is a fine artist & someone I've had good contact with, discusses how Turface absorbs moisture & nutrients, so much so that it might cause root damage. He does say that it's likely minimal, and keep Turface ratio down to around 15%. I've personally never had an issue with it, and since I repot with fresh soil mixtures every two-three years, it's never been a problem. It's commonly used throughout the bonsai community. However, because these two professionals discuss it, it is worth considering and reviewing. When I have an opportunity this spring, I'll try some different mixtures & see what my results are.
Where do you find your turface? Im from utah and non of the nurseries around here carry it.
I get it at a landscape & turf supply (The Turf & Gardening Store in Roanoke, VA). It's a drive to get it, but worth it. Check with your local school system, since it's often used on baseball fields. Find out where they get it from. If it's a distance, you might be able to order some through them, or buy it off them? I've never tried, but doesn't hurt to ask. Get the MVP. Some of the other stuff is just plain clay.
I hear expanded shale holds more water if crushed. Im looking forward to your video on ph.
It does, and that depends on a couple of different factors. The first is the manufacturer of expanded shale. Some may be more porous than others, and that is the reason I also included the brand name (Stalite Permatill) in the description to give reference. The other, and this one's the bigger one, is that smaller particles retain more moisture than larger ones because of water's surface tension. Crushed expanded shale will definitely hold more than coarse expanded shale. I'll be discussing this in greater detail in a future video on drainage.
the inner poor structure is more accessible as well from what I was told. I take part of the large pieces and smash them up to mix with the rest. what flavor snowcone do feel works best for bonsai?
Half of my bonsai club uses it, and I know the NC Arboretum uses it for their mixtures. I'm only just now exploring, and this isn't the only test. It performed really well in another one, which you'll see next. Flavor of snowcone? Cherry! Soil mixture? It varies, and after looking at these tests, the health of my trees over the past many years in various combos, I'm fine tuning it more & more. My junipers loved the Turface/DE/pine bark mix their first year. They haven't liked it the second, and I believe it has to do with the deterioration of DE over time (to be shown). The deciduous, on the other hand, haven't had a problem.
il try cherry, they seem to hate blue raspberry...cant wait to see more of this series
What materials you use for DECIDUOUS TREE. LIKE JAPANESE MAPLES. AND PROPORTION OF MATERIALS. THANKS.
Thank you so much for testing!
Wow! Excelente video, muy didáctico, gracias por compartir.
That was so interesting and informative thanks for that!
You are most welcome!
Thank you for not using music in your video. So many people use music and I find it distracting and it interferes with the narration
I've used it so much, but it's rare I do these days.
Hi... Thanks for the video, i learned a lot. What is your ideal bonsai soil mix??
Equal parts Turface, Lava Rock, and Pine bark.
Привет! Подскажи пожалуйста какой грунт ты используешь, что это за мелкие камни???У нас в России очень мало информации по субстрам. Везде пишут что надо использовать землю , там где выкопал растение, у меня ямадори растут с той землей с которой выкопал
Трудно сказать, как перевести их на русский. Хммм ... Я попробую перечислить их здесь и посмотреть, поймет ли перевод Google: кокосовое волокно, компост, торфяной мох, сосновая кора. Акадама (почва Японии), диатомовая земля (кошачья почва), гранитная щепа (курица), расширенный сланцы, лавовая скала (шлория), перлит, пемза, песок, легкий глинистый агрегат (ТУРФАС) и вермикулит. Многие из этих предметов могут быть недоступны для вас. Удостоверьтесь, что он хорошо стекает и не срывается с течением времени. У меня появилось видео с замораживанием-оттаиванием. Надеюсь, это поможет вам!
Appalachian Bonsai спасибо, большое, Google почти все нормально перевёл, но вы правы многого у нас нет, а конкретнее Акадамы, про нее я слышал, ну буду экспериментировать с Серамисом, спасибо ещё раз!)))))
Sorry Im late ... Im danish. Thanks for a very good video. Maybe I have lost something, but ..... I think its only show which material pic up most H2O and keep it. From my point of view it is more importent to show, which material easyly pics H2O, fertilasors and O2 up AND are willing to give it to the rots. Otherwise it will be a competion between soil and rots. I can have missed something?
Excellent questions! Roots don't like being wet, as it leads to rot (unless they're aquatic). What they prefer instead is a humid environment and fresh oxygen. The benefit of the soil material holding water is that it evaporates as they dry out which creates/maintains humidity in between watering. Good coarse soil mixes (as preferred in bonsai) allow excess water to drain quickly (which draws in the oxygen). You don't need much fertilizer for bonsai, only once every other week or so. And back to the coarse soil mixes, you are required to water frequently, which keeps the cycle fresh and clean. I hope that makes sense, and it's a balancing act that takes time to learn. Cheers, my friend!
Could you tell me where you purchase your Pine Bark?
Thanks
Local plant nursery. Lowes. Home Depot. places like that. The bags I purchase are often called 'soil conditioner.' It's finely chopped, so I get at least 1/2 - 3/4 bag of useable material.
Yeah I thought you might say that. I live in New Brunswick, Canada and Pine Bark for Bonsai is VERY hard to find. And nobody here sells Soil Conditioner.
You could also try bark from other tree species. Dan Robinson of Washington State, USA uses fir bark. Mulch (or beauty bark) is another common place to get your bark, but you might not get as much useable material per bag. Just make sure you purchase natural, and not artificially colored, components.
so what is the number t best material for succulents..I live in the south of Manitoba, Winnipeg.canada
Napa 8822 isn't related to calcined clay. It's DE, which is silica formed by dead algae.
Are you using OIl-Dry, which *is* made of calcined clay? Only 8822 is made of DE.
Thanks for the video!
You're absolutely right! How I missed that, I don't know. Thank you for double checking! I'll make sure to add a note in the description. I have used Oil-Dri when NAPA 8822 wasn't available. This may be the source of mixed up information.
Thank you! That was very helpful.
I'm happy it was! There's another coming up soon
Is it bad to use pea pebbles as the bulk part of ur soil? im from ohio and cant seem to find alot of this stuff.
It is not bad to use pea pebbles, as long as they are sifted to a small size. Like the granite chicken grit, they may be heavy, but they drain very well. Turface (LECA) is what they put on baseball fields, so you may ask your local high school where they get theirs from. If there's a landscape/gardening/turf store near you, several items like perlite, permatil & pumice may be available. Lowes often carries some of these items, though in smaller quantites. If they're not in bulk, you'll find them near the specialty items like orchid mix.
Thanks for the help man! I love your videos, keep up the good work. Im always looking forward to more.
EXELENTE MUY BUENA LA ACLARACION RETENCION DE AGUA DE LOS DISTINTOS ELEMENTOS...
So much great information! Thank you!
You're welcome GM!
Could you summarize these results in a table
This test does not take into consideration how much air each media holds so although the test has shown me what the difference is between lava rock and pumice, there is little point to determine which media will perform best..
A table at the end to plot the results would have been useful, I spotted at least one mistake on the perlite, 22g dry to 37g wet = 15g retained, not 14g.
But excellent video, thx for posting. I now know lava rock is heavy and pretty useless stuff, good for ornamental purposes only.
Yeah, there were a few mistakes made. Try. Fail. Try again! Thanks for keeping me in check. It's important. I hope to make some more of these types of tests in the future.
Sangat membantu dan membangun .....hal yang penting ..... terima kasih .....
Yea, really nice video...very interesting and useful...
Good work my friend, thank you.
Awesome video. Great methods
Very informative. Thanks.
Well YOU probably sick of hearing this but I agree the best vid I have seen Very informative. I have subscribed to your channel. I look forward seeing other vid. Bob, Ontario, canada
It's very encouraging to hear those words. Makes me continue to do more. Thanks Bob!
Just watched this video, nice work, but you forget one of the best substrate ever, the Chabazite ;)
Never heard of it until now! Thanks!
Here in France we have some articles about it, it's not really known in fact, and bonsai people keep using akadama because it's still cheaper, even if it's coming from Japan ;)
But the properties are just better.
There is always more to learn. haha Another great video bro!👍
I'll have to use that on the next video! Thanks, Wolfman!
Thank you for this really well put together video and test! +1
commenting because I always want to find this back
Thank you for put the dates I description, Is very good. I'm so sorry for my verybad english
I live in Cd Victoria tamaulipas México
I like your channel
Greetings
Great test and very usefull.
Thank you, Pierre!
Nice going , Kermit
Wow your voice is so... 1940s training video style it’s so nice