I loaded strictly from the manual first time I went to the range. And tested from 39.8 - 42g. But one thing the Hornaday website does not take into consideration is case capacity. After putting all the info in QL I was near the maximum pressure. I'll back down just a little fit the next test and depend more on QL
Thanks very much Trent for your great video, very informative, I just received my QL cd from Cairns shooting supplies, all working well. Very happy, regards Richard
@@TrentusMaximus78 Thanks Trent, QL going good, but went to the range yesterday and using a shooting chrony found my loads where 75 to 90 FPS over QLs prediction, checked all the relevant info required and also checked my lab scales for accuracy can't find a reason yet. Maybe it's to do with the chamber or barrel friction. I know powder burn rates can vary + or - 2 percent but 90 fps is alot. I will check my chrono against the rifle clubs high end one next week. Regards Richard
Hi Richard, I have the same results with my loads. Some of my loads were up to 150fps over QL predictions. I guess without going to the range and using every known combination available, the QL designers had to go by the manufacturers specifications when programming QL. If you're getting more than what QL is prediction, that's great in my opinion. Cheers.
@@TrentusMaximus78 That's good to hear and yes better to be over, to compensate I managed to make a new powder file and increased the burn rate (Br) figure to come up with the correct fps, there may well be an easier way to do it. I will see if it works with a new load next week. Thanks very much Trent best regards Richard
Can you repeat that please? Kidding, I'm looking to get the program not only to save time and money but also components as a lot of then are almost impossible to get where I am. Thank you for the tutorial
@@TrentusMaximus78 - mixing powders? Oh god NO! thats not a good idea. I mean finding the best combo of bullet, powder and primer for absolutely best accuracy in just my guns.
@@P.E.J. If you follow the steps in the video, you will learn how to try different combinations of powders and projectiles. As for primers, I don't get into that side of ballistics, but I know if you use a chronograph you can determine the best primer for your application.
G'day Trent, Just bought the latest program this arvo {as of May 2024} and happened across your tutorial and since you are here in OZstralia that made it even better. Shooting F Open with a 280AI with Berger 184's and want to get them up a bit faster after having some/lot of wind drift problems yesterday at 800mts {it was knocking the buggies out of the trees and the crows were flying backwards to keep the dust out of their eyes...!} Hoping that the latest edition has all the latest on some of the new powders and was wondering if there is any way to put in custom made bullets or bullets that have been treated with hBN {which I use}, Molly or Tungsten Di-sulfide? All of which make them more slippery and lower velocity/pressure a bit. I can only suppose that picking one that was of the same weight would be one way but do you know of any other way? Are you able to put in things such as- Boat Tail, VLD, coatings, etc? The Bullet length was another place that I am not sure of in the video, is that suppose to be base to tip or a more consistent base to ojive as bullets measured base to tip can vary a bit compared measuring base to ojive which is a more accurate measurement. Have to ask, are you still satisfied with the product? Has the updating been easy and timely? Cheers
Apologies for the delayed reply. I am unaware of any settings within QL that will allow for you to input the data of your specific projectile or coating. I do not get into that side of the program. There may be a setting, but I am not aware of it. I do know that you can tell QL if they are boat tails as there is a tick box in the top left of the main page. As for the projectile length, it is measured from base to tip, not ogive. I am very happy with QL and QT. I have not needed to update the version as my version does all I need. I suggest having a play around with your powders and seating depth. This is where you would measure the ogive as you will need to know the length to the lands and grooves. As always, stay on the safe side of the PSI! I hope this may help you a little.
Greetings from Georgia, USA. Thanks for taking the time to do this video. Very informative and helpful. Simple (and probably stupid question). I noticed the OBT adjusts considerably with adjusting the temperature. My question - do you enter the temp value based on what the temperature is when loading the powder (e.g. inside home at 75 degrees F), or when you plan on firing the round (outside at 85 degrees F)? Thanks TC
G'day TC. Thanks for the question. I use the average temperature for the area I live in. In my part of the country, the average temperature is 32°C. Once I find my load, I stick to it. The only reasons I will load develop a certain round again is if I can not purchase a particular projectile or powder and have to use something else. Hope this answers the question.
Hi Trent! I am new to QL and love the video; best one I could find. Very simple, thanks! I have been loading 7mm Rem Mag for a couple years now and have lived in two different states in the US. In one state I lived at ~200ft above sea level and one ~3200ft above sea level. I have found that in both areas, obviously with very different environmentals, I get high pressure signs at a charge above ~67.5grs of Hodgdon H1000 (a temp. stable powder) and it quickly plows out my primer pockets. Using the method in your video we are using charges just at or below safe maximum charge but you don't elaborate on over pressure signs upon firing the charges created. The reason I write this is because I followed your video but I am very hesitant for use the loads due to the aforementioned information. Do you have any feedback on this subject/situation? I use NORMA brass (trimmed 2.490" / H20 Vol.=89.999%), Berger 168gr VLD (COAL=3.440"), Hodgdon H1000 (67.0grs with no press. signs), 1:9 twist. Thanks for any feedback or advise you may have!
@@TrentusMaximus78 Thanks for the quick reply Trent it nice to get a little help when you need it. I used SAMMI. I will send you any information you like via email.
Great tutorial bud. Let me ask you, is there a section in quickload where you can indicate if you intend on seating the bullet into the lands? Versus jumping. Because obviously that does change pressures, especially early spikes. I have looked some but can’t find it other than going thru cumbersome math and using the “shank depth” and the other variable right above that (I forget what it’s called at the moment) but it’s basically the amount the bullet will be seated into the case. Let me know if you know if there is a just a straight forward option to enter yes or no if your jamming or jumping and if jamming by how much. Thanks alot
G'day mate. The only way I know how to do what you have asked is to measure the OAL of your bullet and adjust the seating depth in QL to suit your chamber length. Eg: my .300wm has a jump of 5+mm but I can't load my rounds to the L&G because of the magazine length. For me to use the 5+mm jump, I would have to single stack load it. Play around with the numbers in QL, but don't forget not to exceed the maximum PSI for your load. Hope this helps.
@@TrentusMaximus78 Yea thanks much, that’s what I thought was the case. An update with simply entering seating depth would be damn nice:))). Oh well, thanks for getting back to me. Cheers
Hi there, you can allow for loading into the lands. On the Charge tile, near the bottom is an entry for "Shot Start (initial) Pressure) - the consensus is to up that number to 5500 if you are into the lands. I'm still playing with that myself.
Hi Trent...once you get your load should you not be shooting it over a crony to get real data then calibrating your specific heats and burn rate to get that powder calibrated to your actual speed...then you can sort out actual nodes?
Hi Ian, You can do that, sure. If I were to start competition shooting, I would certainly go down that path and fine tune the load. At this stage for me, it's not necessary.
Hold everything..... Time stamp 35.min... Proof pressures are 125% of normal max.... NOT 3x max.. Proof for the 300 Win Mag, would be 80,000 psi. for that example.... Please be careful.. This doesn't mean that the rifle will fail at that level, but will be on the near side of plastic deformation of the steel. 192,000psi would be an instantaneous and catastrophic dis-assembly of said rifle.
Hi, At no point have I mentioned to run the rifle at 192,000psi. I have repeatedly said do not go over the maximum psi for that calibre. Safety first and foremost.
DANGER ! You made a VERY DANGEROUS MISTAKE ! The Saami safety margin is NOT 3 times, but 1.33-1.49 (133-149%) (so let's use 1.3) (what you meant to say at minute 35:04) Thus, proof pressure is 64000 x 1.3 = 83200 psi, NOT 192,000 psi (64,000 x 3). THE SAFETY MARGIN IS NOT AS YOU SAID.
Hi, If you measure the volume in an unpressed case and then transfer those numbers to a pressed case, your pressures will increase. And that increase in pressure will have an effect on accuracy. Try measuring the volume in both a pressed and unpressed case and then enter those numbers into Quickload and see what the difference is between the two. Hope this helps. Thanks
@@leeprimeroessler3277 You're welcome. Another point to remember, as I'm sure you are aware is that you must put the case through the press to reload it. Reloading an unpressed case is unheard of so it sort of makes it void if you use those numbers.
@@TrentusMaximus78 I have a feeling the reason people measure on a fired case, is that they regard the expanded case volume is the volume they have available during ignition. I don't think that is entirely correct due to the expansion time, but I don't think a pressed volume is entirely correct either. But with a safety perspective, I think your way should be the way to go. I like being safe.
Great vid, well done. I know many have their own methods for H2o Grains. QL users guide says fired, un sized case with spent primer and flat (no bulge) meniscus. However, you will find pages of arguments on the topic online. As you stated, do it both ways and use what works for you. Water weighing the same case 5 times and getting the same number is hard enough so I use the QL suggested flat meniscus with light and magnifier. Again, great work!
Great video with some really good stuff. I am not sure why you subtracted 2500 from your pressure (7:27 video time). You used 2500 again when you updated the cartridge...is that a standard deduction that has to be made on all pressures?
Hi Kevin, I only use that figure to find out the best and safest powder for that load, according to QL. You don't have to use that figure, you can use the max pressure if you want to but I was taught to use the safe figures. Also, I knew the powder to use from the first time I used 2500.
G'Day Trent, do you plus or minus your powder weight based on projectile weight? If I am doing a batch of 50 and the first 40 pills are all smack on 208, but the last 10 pills are 207 gn, would you alter your charge for ultimate consistency?
Hi Barry, That reads like your powder thrower may need cleaning. If your powder weights are changing by the end of your batch, I suggest to check that everything is in order every 20 or so pills. Are you weighing the powder or the bullet and finding the difference?
@@TrentusMaximus78 Thanks for taking the time to get back to me. I don't actually use the final powder dispersion from the thrower, after it comes from the thrower, I have a very sensitive set of scales that actually counts individual logs of powder. In the end, I don't have cases with 120 gn per say but 1876 logs of powder to do whatever I can to increase consistency and repeatability. Yes, I know that some of the logs are in some way shorter or have a thicker coat some times but i figure it will be more accurate than trusting the thrower. But all that said, that isn't what I meant in my question. I am trying to ensure consistencey (as well as possible) in all parts to get all the 1% lined up. I was thinking if the pill is a couple of grains lighter and I have found the load I like, then if the pill is light, slightly change the powder load to offset the difference. I was wondering if you did anything like that. After changing the temps like you advised, I was able to get an SD of 1 and an extreme spread of 2. I'm a stubborn bastard and want to get an SD under 1 and an extreme spread of 1. Keep in mind, I do ELR.
@@barrydonovan6357 Hi Barry, that sounds like a pretty in-depth powder thrower. After giving this some thought, and asking a guru that I know we suggest if you haven't or don't already to weight and measure your projectiles and trim them for the base accordingly. Also your cases, trim them to your required length. Check the thickness of your brass walls too. Also to answer your first question, "would you alter your charge for ultimate consistency?", what I have done in the past is try to get to the pressure as close as possible with QL. So if my desired load was 61,000psi, I would try to get as close to that. This has worked for me if I wanted to try a different powder. Mind you, as mentioned in the video, I hunt. I hope this helps. By the way, what type of powder thrower do you have?
@@TrentusMaximus78 G'Day Trent, thanks for your reply, I do all the measurements and trim everything as much as possible to create consistency over all final product. My end game is to produce a finsihed product that is the same as the last and the same as the future 1000 wil be so that every time I squeze the trigger, I have a "better" chance of adding it to the conditions I can't control or aren't as proficient as reading or responding to. I just have a Hornady thrower, but after the powder is dispensed, I put it on an extremely accurate (.0001) scale with PCS mode that actually counts the logs of powder. As I said earlier, I am just trying to make it as consistent, therfore repeatable as possible. I am currently shooting pineapples at 1000, on my way to replicating my reloading teacher who has now hit 9 golf balls at 1000. How can I get my details to you without bradcasting them for all to see?
G'day Callum. Yes. There is an update disc you can purchase. Cheers. quickload.co.uk/products/option-5-quickload-data-update-20th-july-2023/?currency=AUD
WOW. Thank you so much for such an incredible answer. I am still in the process of understanding quickload. Without quickload do you work up a load from minimum (according to reloading manuals) and watch primers for pressure signs? Do you ever go over maximum in quickload or in the manuals? Does crimping increase pressure? If so can you incorporate this in quickload? If your bullet is further to the lands, but still .02 or more jump does this allow for more charge? i.e. lower pressure more area for powder. If you fireform your brass to the chamber does this not allow more volume for powder? I'm sorry to bombard you with so many questions but considering your last response its hard not to ask. (:
Thank for your questions Pearl. I will answer them from my experience and what I know. 1. I had read a few reloading books and found them helpful to gain an insight to reloading. I did not find them helpful to finding my load. I spent hundreds, maybe thousands of dollars trying to find the right combination of powders, primers, brass, projectiles, OAL and so on and I could not. Until I found QL. I tried the step-up by .2 grains and still got poor results if any. This has been my experience with manuals. 2. Every now and then I will go over the maximum in QL. But I DO NOT go over the maximum PSI. Stay under that setting! It is highlighted in pink and will turn red if you go over. 3. I have read that crimping is good for full autos only as the recoil can bounce the rounds into the magazine face and push the projectile into the case, leading to higher PSI. I do crimp but only for consistency. I am reluctant to say that crimping will increase PSI because there is the whole neck of the case that has wrapped around the projectile, so to speak. I do not believe crimping is incorporated into QL. 4. If you increase your OAL, you will lower the PSI inside the case and thus can use a little more powder. Same as decreasing your OAL, PSI will rise. If you do input this data into QL, watch for your maximum! To test your question on fireforming, get a new case, weigh it with a primer installed and find your H2o. Then load that same case with the load you’ll use from QL, shoot it from your rifle and do the same. Clean it, weigh it with a primer and check H2o. This should answer that question. I hope these answers may help you in some way or another. Thanks.
The best tutorial I have found on QL program. Done in terminology even I can understand. Thanks Kent. You are a true life savor.
You're welcome. Happy to help.
(trent)
Thanks a million, great intro to quick load!!
You're welcome.
Thanks mate. Just setting up for 300wsm been a great help thank you for your time.
Happy to help. Enjoy.
Great vid, it was very close to the fps I was getting on my Chrony. Additionally, I found why I was beginning to crater on my primers. Thanks.
What was the reason the primers were beginning to crater?
I loaded strictly from the manual first time I went to the range. And tested from 39.8 - 42g. But one thing the Hornaday website does not take into consideration is case capacity. After putting all the info in QL I was near the maximum pressure. I'll back down just a little fit the next test and depend more on QL
Thanks very much Trent for your great video, very informative, I just received my QL cd from Cairns shooting supplies, all working well. Very happy, regards Richard
You're welcome. Any issues, happy to help.
@@TrentusMaximus78 Thanks Trent, QL going good, but went to the range yesterday and using a shooting chrony found my loads where 75 to 90 FPS over QLs prediction, checked all the relevant info required and also checked my lab scales for accuracy can't find a reason yet. Maybe it's to do with the chamber or barrel friction. I know powder burn rates can vary + or - 2 percent but 90 fps is alot. I will check my chrono against the rifle clubs high end one next week. Regards Richard
Hi Richard,
I have the same results with my loads. Some of my loads were up to 150fps over QL predictions. I guess without going to the range and using every known combination available, the QL designers had to go by the manufacturers specifications when programming QL. If you're getting more than what QL is prediction, that's great in my opinion.
Cheers.
@@TrentusMaximus78 That's good to hear and yes better to be over, to compensate I managed to make a new powder file and increased the burn rate (Br) figure to come up with the correct fps, there may well be an easier way to do it. I will see if it works with a new load next week. Thanks very much Trent best regards Richard
Can you repeat that please? Kidding, I'm looking to get the program not only to save time and money but also components as a lot of then are almost impossible to get where I am.
Thank you for the tutorial
You're welcome. Happy to help.
very nice walk-through of Quickload.
I just bought Quickload and I just learned alot ;-)
You're welcome. Any issues, I'll be happy to help.
@@TrentusMaximus78 - do you have a video on what to look for when you develope a new recipe for a charge for both rifle and pistol??
When you say New Recipe, do you mean make your own powder mix?
@@TrentusMaximus78 - mixing powders? Oh god NO! thats not a good idea. I mean finding the best combo of bullet, powder and primer for absolutely best accuracy in just my guns.
@@P.E.J. If you follow the steps in the video, you will learn how to try different combinations of powders and projectiles. As for primers, I don't get into that side of ballistics, but I know if you use a chronograph you can determine the best primer for your application.
Great video Trent! Cheers
You're welcome.
G'day Trent,
Just bought the latest program this arvo {as of May 2024} and happened across your tutorial and since you are here in OZstralia that made it even better.
Shooting F Open with a 280AI with Berger 184's and want to get them up a bit faster after having some/lot of wind drift problems yesterday at 800mts {it was knocking the buggies out of the trees and the crows were flying backwards to keep the dust out of their eyes...!}
Hoping that the latest edition has all the latest on some of the new powders and was wondering if there is any way to put in custom made bullets or bullets that have been treated with hBN {which I use}, Molly or Tungsten Di-sulfide? All of which make them more slippery and lower velocity/pressure a bit.
I can only suppose that picking one that was of the same weight would be one way but do you know of any other way? Are you able to put in things such as- Boat Tail, VLD, coatings, etc?
The Bullet length was another place that I am not sure of in the video, is that suppose to be base to tip or a more consistent base to ojive as bullets measured base to tip can vary a bit compared measuring base to ojive which is a more accurate measurement.
Have to ask, are you still satisfied with the product? Has the updating been easy and timely?
Cheers
Hello all. Please see the description for edited notes. Thanks.
Apologies for the delayed reply.
I am unaware of any settings within QL that will allow for you to input the data of your specific projectile or coating. I do not get into that side of the program. There may be a setting, but I am not aware of it. I do know that you can tell QL if they are boat tails as there is a tick box in the top left of the main page. As for the projectile length, it is measured from base to tip, not ogive. I am very happy with QL and QT. I have not needed to update the version as my version does all I need. I suggest having a play around with your powders and seating depth. This is where you would measure the ogive as you will need to know the length to the lands and grooves. As always, stay on the safe side of the PSI! I hope this may help you a little.
Super, now i am go to garage, thanks!
You're welcome. Happy to help.
great work mate cheers
You're welcome. Thank you.
Great content and thanks for sharing Sir.
You're welcome.
Greetings from Georgia, USA. Thanks for taking the time to do this video. Very informative and helpful. Simple (and probably stupid question). I noticed the OBT adjusts considerably with adjusting the temperature. My question - do you enter the temp value based on what the temperature is when loading the powder (e.g. inside home at 75 degrees F), or when you plan on firing the round (outside at 85 degrees F)?
Thanks
TC
G'day TC. Thanks for the question. I use the average temperature for the area I live in. In my part of the country, the average temperature is 32°C. Once I find my load, I stick to it. The only reasons I will load develop a certain round again is if I can not purchase a particular projectile or powder and have to use something else. Hope this answers the question.
Brilliant tutorial, I am just getting into reloading and this programme will help out , but only problem is I have a MacBook without a CD drive
Thank you.
May I suggest to purchase a 2nd hand laptop (windows) so you can run QL? I did.
@@TrentusMaximus78 that's what I am thinking, I have a old laptop, just trying to upgrade to windows 10 as we speak
Thanks mate 👍🏻
it helped me!!! thanks
You're welcome.
Hi Trent! I am new to QL and love the video; best one I could find. Very simple, thanks! I have been loading 7mm Rem Mag for a couple years now and have lived in two different states in the US. In one state I lived at ~200ft above sea level and one ~3200ft above sea level. I have found that in both areas, obviously with very different environmentals, I get high pressure signs at a charge above ~67.5grs of Hodgdon H1000 (a temp. stable powder) and it quickly plows out my primer pockets. Using the method in your video we are using charges just at or below safe maximum charge but you don't elaborate on over pressure signs upon firing the charges created. The reason I write this is because I followed your video but I am very hesitant for use the loads due to the aforementioned information. Do you have any feedback on this subject/situation? I use NORMA brass (trimmed 2.490" / H20 Vol.=89.999%), Berger 168gr VLD (COAL=3.440"), Hodgdon H1000 (67.0grs with no press. signs), 1:9 twist. Thanks for any feedback or advise you may have!
Hi Ty, please email me with a few screen shots of your loads and I will have a look a little closer. Are you using SAMMI or CIP?
trentdafonseca78@gmail.com
@@TrentusMaximus78
Thanks for the quick reply Trent it nice to get a little help when you need it. I used SAMMI. I will send you any information you like via email.
Reply sent.
Great tutorial bud. Let me ask you, is there a section in quickload where you can indicate if you intend on seating the bullet into the lands? Versus jumping. Because obviously that does change pressures, especially early spikes. I have looked some but can’t find it other than going thru cumbersome math and using the “shank depth” and the other variable right above that (I forget what it’s called at the moment) but it’s basically the amount the bullet will be seated into the case. Let me know if you know if there is a just a straight forward option to enter yes or no if your jamming or jumping and if jamming by how much. Thanks alot
G'day mate. The only way I know how to do what you have asked is to measure the OAL of your bullet and adjust the seating depth in QL to suit your chamber length. Eg: my .300wm has a jump of 5+mm but I can't load my rounds to the L&G because of the magazine length. For me to use the 5+mm jump, I would have to single stack load it. Play around with the numbers in QL, but don't forget not to exceed the maximum PSI for your load. Hope this helps.
@@TrentusMaximus78 Yea thanks much, that’s what I thought was the case. An update with simply entering seating depth would be damn nice:))). Oh well, thanks for getting back to me. Cheers
Hi there, you can allow for loading into the lands.
On the Charge tile, near the bottom is an entry for "Shot Start (initial) Pressure) - the consensus is to up that number to 5500 if you are into the lands.
I'm still playing with that myself.
Hi Trent...once you get your load should you not be shooting it over a crony to get real data then calibrating your specific heats and burn rate to get that powder calibrated to your actual speed...then you can sort out actual nodes?
Hi Ian,
You can do that, sure. If I were to start competition shooting, I would certainly go down that path and fine tune the load. At this stage for me, it's not necessary.
@@TrentusMaximus78 great tutorial though learnt a lot 🙏🏻👍🏻🙏🏻
@@ianschultz9383 You're welcome.
Hold everything..... Time stamp 35.min... Proof pressures are 125% of normal max.... NOT 3x max.. Proof for the 300 Win Mag, would be 80,000 psi. for that example.... Please be careful.. This doesn't mean that the rifle will fail at that level, but will be on the near side of plastic deformation of the steel. 192,000psi would be an instantaneous and catastrophic dis-assembly of said rifle.
Hi,
At no point have I mentioned to run the rifle at 192,000psi. I have repeatedly said do not go over the maximum psi for that calibre. Safety first and foremost.
DANGER ! You made a VERY DANGEROUS MISTAKE !
The Saami safety margin is NOT 3 times, but 1.33-1.49 (133-149%) (so let's use 1.3) (what you meant to say at minute 35:04)
Thus, proof pressure is 64000 x 1.3 = 83200 psi, NOT 192,000 psi (64,000 x 3). THE SAFETY MARGIN IS NOT AS YOU SAID.
Hi,
Thanks for the correction. I guess the point is don't over load your loads. Stay under max psi. Cheers.
Do you have an e-mail need to ask a question and show the diagram from QL
Hi
trentdafonseca78@gmail.com
Thanks.
You measured case volume on a pressed case, but most others say « use a fired case». May I aske your thoughts about that?
Hi,
If you measure the volume in an unpressed case and then transfer those numbers to a pressed case, your pressures will increase. And that increase in pressure will have an effect on accuracy. Try measuring the volume in both a pressed and unpressed case and then enter those numbers into Quickload and see what the difference is between the two.
Hope this helps.
Thanks
@@TrentusMaximus78 I think that is a valid point. Thanks for the reply.
@@leeprimeroessler3277 You're welcome. Another point to remember, as I'm sure you are aware is that you must put the case through the press to reload it. Reloading an unpressed case is unheard of so it sort of makes it void if you use those numbers.
@@TrentusMaximus78 I have a feeling the reason people measure on a fired case, is that they regard the expanded case volume is the volume they have available during ignition. I don't think that is entirely correct due to the expansion time, but I don't think a pressed volume is entirely correct either. But with a safety perspective, I think your way should be the way to go. I like being safe.
Great vid, well done. I know many have their own methods for H2o Grains. QL users guide says fired, un sized case with spent primer and flat (no bulge) meniscus. However, you will find pages of arguments on the topic online. As you stated, do it both ways and use what works for you. Water weighing the same case 5 times and getting the same number is hard enough so I use the QL suggested flat meniscus with light and magnifier. Again, great work!
Great video with some really good stuff. I am not sure why you subtracted 2500 from your pressure (7:27 video time). You used 2500 again when you updated the cartridge...is that a standard deduction that has to be made on all pressures?
Hi Kevin,
I only use that figure to find out the best and safest powder for that load, according to QL. You don't have to use that figure, you can use the max pressure if you want to but I was taught to use the safe figures. Also, I knew the powder to use from the first time I used 2500.
@@TrentusMaximus78 So I understand...you subtract the 2500 to just make sure you are under the max pressure of the cartridge/powder load?
G'Day Trent, do you plus or minus your powder weight based on projectile weight? If I am doing a batch of 50 and the first 40 pills are all smack on 208, but the last 10 pills are 207 gn, would you alter your charge for ultimate consistency?
Hi Barry, That reads like your powder thrower may need cleaning. If your powder weights are changing by the end of your batch, I suggest to check that everything is in order every 20 or so pills. Are you weighing the powder or the bullet and finding the difference?
@@TrentusMaximus78 Thanks for taking the time to get back to me. I don't actually use the final powder dispersion from the thrower, after it comes from the thrower, I have a very sensitive set of scales that actually counts individual logs of powder. In the end, I don't have cases with 120 gn per say but 1876 logs of powder to do whatever I can to increase consistency and repeatability. Yes, I know that some of the logs are in some way shorter or have a thicker coat some times but i figure it will be more accurate than trusting the thrower. But all that said, that isn't what I meant in my question. I am trying to ensure consistencey (as well as possible) in all parts to get all the 1% lined up. I was thinking if the pill is a couple of grains lighter and I have found the load I like, then if the pill is light, slightly change the powder load to offset the difference. I was wondering if you did anything like that. After changing the temps like you advised, I was able to get an SD of 1 and an extreme spread of 2. I'm a stubborn bastard and want to get an SD under 1 and an extreme spread of 1. Keep in mind, I do ELR.
@@barrydonovan6357 Hi Barry, that sounds like a pretty in-depth powder thrower. After giving this some thought, and asking a guru that I know we suggest if you haven't or don't already to weight and measure your projectiles and trim them for the base accordingly. Also your cases, trim them to your required length. Check the thickness of your brass walls too. Also to answer your first question, "would you alter your charge for ultimate consistency?", what I have done in the past is try to get to the pressure as close as possible with QL. So if my desired load was 61,000psi, I would try to get as close to that. This has worked for me if I wanted to try a different powder. Mind you, as mentioned in the video, I hunt. I hope this helps. By the way, what type of powder thrower do you have?
@@TrentusMaximus78 G'Day Trent, thanks for your reply, I do all the measurements and trim everything as much as possible to create consistency over all final product. My end game is to produce a finsihed product that is the same as the last and the same as the future 1000 wil be so that every time I squeze the trigger, I have a "better" chance of adding it to the conditions I can't control or aren't as proficient as reading or responding to. I just have a Hornady thrower, but after the powder is dispensed, I put it on an extremely accurate (.0001) scale with PCS mode that actually counts the logs of powder. As I said earlier, I am just trying to make it as consistent, therfore repeatable as possible. I am currently shooting pineapples at 1000, on my way to replicating my reloading teacher who has now hit 9 golf balls at 1000. How can I get my details to you without bradcasting them for all to see?
Who did you purchase your software from?? Was it here or from the US??
thx
I believe you can purchase the software from this link:
schultzlarsen.com.au/stockists-dealers/
Have you tried to install any updates?
G'day Callum. Yes. There is an update disc you can purchase. Cheers. quickload.co.uk/products/option-5-quickload-data-update-20th-july-2023/?currency=AUD
The .22 hornet is showing 25,000 "CUP." Is this the same number you use for PSI?
Hi,
Try this link for your conversion.
www.shootingsoftware.com/ftp/psicuparticle2.pdf
Any more help, let me know.
WOW. Thank you so much for such an incredible answer. I am still in the process of understanding quickload. Without quickload do you work up a load from minimum (according to reloading manuals) and watch primers for pressure signs? Do you ever go over maximum in quickload or in the manuals? Does crimping increase pressure? If so can you incorporate this in quickload? If your bullet is further to the lands, but still .02 or more jump does this allow for more charge? i.e. lower pressure more area for powder. If you fireform your brass to the chamber does this not allow more volume for powder? I'm sorry to bombard you with so many questions but considering your last response its hard not to ask. (:
Thank for your questions Pearl. I will answer them from my experience and what I know.
1. I had read a few reloading books and found them helpful to gain an insight to reloading. I did not find them helpful to finding my load. I spent hundreds, maybe thousands of dollars trying to find the right combination of powders, primers, brass, projectiles, OAL and so on and I could not. Until I found QL. I tried the step-up by .2 grains and still got poor results if any. This has been my experience with manuals.
2. Every now and then I will go over the maximum in QL. But I DO NOT go over the maximum PSI. Stay under that setting! It is highlighted in pink and will turn red if you go over.
3. I have read that crimping is good for full autos only as the recoil can bounce the rounds into the magazine face and push the projectile into the case, leading to higher PSI. I do crimp but only for consistency. I am reluctant to say that crimping will increase PSI because there is the whole neck of the case that has wrapped around the projectile, so to speak. I do not believe crimping is incorporated into QL.
4. If you increase your OAL, you will lower the PSI inside the case and thus can use a little more powder. Same as decreasing your OAL, PSI will rise. If you do input this data into QL, watch for your maximum! To test your question on fireforming, get a new case, weigh it with a primer installed and find your H2o. Then load that same case with the load you’ll use from QL, shoot it from your rifle and do the same. Clean it, weigh it with a primer and check H2o. This should answer that question.
I hope these answers may help you in some way or another. Thanks.
We're do you buy mate?
That will depend on where you are. Look on the Quickload website. There should be a number of places you can purchase the disc from.