WeWrench Episode 11 1992 BMW E34 M5 Engine, Transmission and Drivetrain removal 11 HD 1080p
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2022
- #bmw #bmwm5 #diy #cars #automotive #restoration #mechanic
Welcome to WeWrench. My name is Michael Dey and my goal is create a new car community and platform that deploys the most detailed automotive content and restorations on rare and exotic vehicles. The first video of the series outlines my project car, the dream car of my youth; a 1992 BMW E34 M5. The BMW M5 is a high performance variant of the BMW 5 Series marketed under the BMW M sub-brand. It is considered an iconic vehicle in the sports sedan category. The E34 generation of the M5 was produced from September 1988 to August 1995. There were only 1678 units produced in the United States and out of those, 1992 was the rarest production year with only 121 units imported. Production of M5 models began with the painted bodyshell of an E34 5 Series at the BMW Dingolfing plant. The shells were then transported to BMW M GmbH in Garching, where the car was assembled by hand over a period of two weeks
My project car is painted BMW Paint Code 287 Mauritius Blue Metallic which only adds to its allure and pedigree. Although definite numbers are not known, there could be less than 4 US Spec M5's painted in this Mauritius Blue Metallic and built to this configuration. The E34 M5 has the venerable S38B36 Engine, tuned by the Engineers at the BMW Motorsport division in Garching Germany. The S38B36 is based on the M88/3 engine which has a rich history and lineage in the BMW racing division. Compared to the M88/3, the S38 has a lower compression ratio (9.8:1), simplified exhaust manifold, catalytic converter, dual-row timing chain and a shorter camshaft duration. As per the M88/3, the S38 uses a DOHC valvetrain with shim-and-bucket valve actuation. Air intake is via six individual throttle bodies with intake trumpets, fed by a cast aluminum intake plenum. It is rated for 310 horsepower and 266 pound feet of torque in it's stock configuration.
I am a former Factory Trained Master Guild Audi Technician and ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician. I will be using all of my skills to restore this vehicle to perfection. In this video, I introduce myself and perform an interior and exterior inspection of the vehicle, and dive into the history, pedigree and story of how I acquired this incredible machine. In subsequent videos, I will restore this car piece by piece, bolt by bolt, and document every detail along the way. The engine and powertrain will be removed. The sheet metal and rust will be repaired, the body panels will be kept original with new body work and paint job.
The S38B36 engine will be rebuilt, the Getrag 280/5 transmission torn down and inspected, rear limited slip 3.73:1 differential rebuilt, fuel tank welded and repaired, suspension replaced, air conditioning repaired, interior reupholstered, wheels refinished and any other pressing issues will be rectified. I will repair both cosmetic rust and structural sheetmetal and repaint the vehicle. This is essentially the ultimate DIY automotive project. I want to put all my skills on display, and share the passion and excitement of having a project car and bringing it back to life. This video should also serve as the ultimate repair resource for the BMW community with special focus on E34 owners. If you own or repair any BMW E34, such as the 518i, 520i, 525i, 530i, 535i, 540i or M5 both sedans or tourings, this video will be the most exhaustive authority on repair techniques and information
Any owners of the BMW E24 M6 and E30 M3 will benefit from watching as well, due to the fact that the S38B35 powertrain and S14B20, and S14B23 powertrain share parts with the S38B36. You will also benefit from watching this series if you own the following BMWs:
E30 Chassis 316, 316i, 318, 318i, 318is, 320i, 323i, 325, 325e, 325i, 325es, 325is, 325ix, M3, M3 Sport Evo
E32 Chassis 730i, 735i, 740i, 750i
E24 Chassis 628csi, 630cs, 633csi, 635csi, M635csi, M6
E36 Chassis 316i, 318i, 318is, 320i, 323i, 323is, 325i, 325is, 328i, 328is, M3, M3 Euro spec, 318tds, 325td, 325tds
E39 Chassis 520i, 523i, 525i, 528i, 530i, 535i, 540i, M5
E34 Chassis 518i, 520i, 520is, 525i, 530i, 535i, 540i, M5, 524td, 525td, 525tds sedans and tourings
E38 Chassis 728i, 728iL, 730i, 730iL, 735i, 735iL, 740i, 740iL, 750i, 750iL
E28 Chassis 518, 518i, 520i, 525i, 525e, 528e, 528i, 533i, 535i, M535i, M5
E46 Chassis 316i, 318i, 320i, 323i, 325i, 328i, 330i, 330ci, 330zhp, M3, M3 CSL
Please share you thoughts about this project. Should I turn it into a rest-mod or leave it stock?
If you find this video informative, please like and subscribe! - Авто та транспорт
Oh that last part was so satisfying !
Also, kind of funny, the E34 rear shock mounts are so much simpler than this. No speaker removal nor sail panel removal (c pillar). Now I’m not sure why, it has been a few years 🤔
Another great video !
Thanks for the interaction and your support!
Loved the video, i've never seen somebody do what you did, it's amazing content. And also quick question, I need to replace my timing chain tensionner on my e46 and thus I need to remove the crankshaft bolt, in the service manual it says that you need to use a similar special tool like you did but every mechanic I ask tells me to do it with an impact to save money, they say that you d'ont need to counterhold the hub which is weird because it would just crank the engine I think🙄what should I do?
Apologies for just seeing this now. You can use an impact to loosen it. It won't hurt anything. Tightening it is a different story though. To do it properly, you need to counterhold the crank
Why is it important to loosen the crankshaft bolt before taking the engine out?
Because the crank bolt is torqued to 578ft lbs and you need to use a special tool to counter hold the crank pulley against the vehicle frame to loosen the bolt
Great work, I like that you've taken the time to get the close up shots for detail. I know it adds about 50% more time to setup, but it helps heaps in providing orientation. I see you also have an obscene amount out oil everywhere 🤣 My oil cooler lines were slowly leaking for years. I enjoying seeing the similarities, I'm working on a E28 M5 I brought with me to Australia. I've used Vogtland springs for an E34 and they work great! I like your solution for the SLS delete, I didn't like that it wasn't a standalone system for the E34s, but you know, "engineering". If you're keen, check out my channel. I'm playing catch up on your episodes so expect much commenting 🤪
Thank you for your kind words! UA-cam flagged this comment as spam for some reason so sorry I'm so late to respond!
@@wewrench All good mate, you're flat out making great content. Cheers.😄
aaaah yes, Special Tooling... I recall my Godfather would always explain why "it's going to take more time to fix your car because we have to pickup some special tooling...." Didn't matter which Saab or BMW of mine he was working on... And of course me being the impatient prick was like "just use an effin thin pair of pliers LOL"
Sometimes, those tools aren't available and you have to make due with what you have. Did you enjoy the final part of the vid?
@@wewrench You mean the BRANDING? Yeah I was gonna comment bout how I like the logo, but was stuck in memories of my Godfather and I hanging out in his garage as a kid LOL
@@skuffle5309 Actually, I meant the footage of the body coming off the powertrain!!! I'm a shameless self promoter, but not THAT bad! lol
@@wewrench LOL yeah that was cool too! Body slid off smoothly. I've seen it where a stray cable or bolt snagged the body and made it wobble which is super scary. It's great when a plan comes together.
What jobs do you use that gigantic ratchet for besides crankbolts?
Back in my Audi dealership days, I would use that tool on 19mm Allen axle bolts
Why did you need to loosen the crank shaft bolt to get the engine out? I’m pulling my s38 engine out soon so need to know ?? Cheers
Because it's torqued to 578ft lbs and you need a special tool to counterhold the crankshaft against the frame rail to loosen it. There is a way to do it outside of the vehicle as well, but its easier with the engine bolted in.
Oh I see you stripped the engine down in another video, the way you described it sounded like to take out the engine you need to undo the crankshaft bolt, it’s good to know anyways and keep up the good work and content 👍🏼
@@cos358 Appreciate the support my friend!