Your honesty is what keeps me watching Curtis. I have found that when merging copper and aluminum wire , some dielectric grease works to keep the wires from oxidizing due to different expansion rates of the two types of metal. 👍👍🇨🇦
@@davidb2438 tomatoe tamatoe, the fact that they expand and contract at different rates will cause the dissimilar metals to arc and will cause oxidation and corrosion.
Gotta add the "me too" comment about bi-metallic terminations. Galvanic corrosion is inevitable and is why the CU-AL wiring devices have mostly gone away outside of industrial and supply service uses. I'd liberally apply Noalox to all wires (brush the Nolaox into the strands of stranded wires) and inside the brass split bolt. Another poster has a great Scotch 33 + self amalgamating tape insulation technique that is very similar to what we use on exposed RF communications cables.
The fact that you kill the power and you're scared of it shows you are a good Tech because no matter what even if I kill the power I still play it safe
Speaking from years of making splice connections, i would apply the noalox to all metal connections, then a single layer of 3M 33 electrical tape. after that apply the splicing tape as you stretch it so that it is approximately 1/2 inch wide. this is done so that the splicing tape will try to return to its normal width of about 3/4 inch causing the splicing tape to bond the layers together. Then a few layers of 33 on the outside will insure proper sealing of the connection. the point of the first layer of 33, it will prevent the splicing tape from sticking to the metal parts making it much easier to remove the splicing tape if you ever need to disconnect the splice. Believe me when i say this, just try it and you will see.
Don’t know if you know this but beside the dielectric grease there are torque values that needs to be applied and the amount of wires allowed for that terminal was over limit I think ! for me it’s better not to use that type of connection due to so many problems that it could bring there are way better ones available than Frankenstein laboratory lol
Curtis, unless you apply some NoAlOx or Ox-Gard liberally on the copper to aluminum connection, the corrosion and resulting high resistance WILL return. I’ve seen you use Ox-Gard in the past. Anytime you make a connection with aluminum wire you should be using it. Same goes for when you install a disconnect with aluminum feeders; use Ox-Gard!
The problems splicing aluminum wire to copper wire led to the discontinuation/ban on aluminum wire inside residential houses, over time the aluminum to copper joints would move, then they would heat up - Many, many houses burned to the ground before aluminum wire was banned in the late 1970s or so. Aluminum wiring is allowed as entrance wire up to the panel, after that NO. If I was an HVAC guy I would never, ever touch aluminum wiring - the liability risks are enormous - even decades after you make the splice bad things can/will happen at your splice, and you will be blamed. - Call an electrician who has special liability insurance. Aluminum wiring is still in millions of homes - and every year some of those homes burn down because of the aluminum to copper wiring. Just run far away, it isn't worth it. Mobile homes used to be notorious for using aluminum wiring, people died every month because of it, sometimes entire families died. Most of those mobil homes are now gone, but the houses wired with less expensive than copper wire will be around for a hundred years. The aluminum to copper splices can heat up to over 200 degrees F, it doesn't matter of the circuit/outlet is in use or not. Inside houses NO aluminum wiring. There are special split-bolts designed to join aluminum to copper wire, they are rated for that - the ones I know about are copper split-bolt that was plated with tin, tin doesn't react to either metal. the aluminum wire only touches the tin, the copper wire only touches the tin These split-bolts cost more -- about $10 each. See Southwire SB2/0-8CPD Split Bolt Connector as an example. Curtis will be OK here, any fire would be outside of the house. Inside the house is a much different story.
Long, long ago, there were two types of tapes to use for electrical things - you **HAD** to use both kinds; on a spice you would wrap "rubber electrical" tape around the joint; then you had to wrap "electric friction" tape over the rubber electrical tape - Both were needed. Friction tape is a cloth tape that can be used to protect electrical tape from sharp objects. In the early 1960s improvements in tape and plastics led to the creation of one tape that could be used for an electrical connection. The older, the two tape method, had many problems and they didn't last. Today 3M sells modern friction tape, 'Friction Tape 1755' is a black friction tape designed to provide mechanical protection against abrasion and cut through for cable, wire splices and connections insulated with rubber electrical tape.
Go Dawgs from Winder Ga!! You may remember I’m the one that went to school in Tifton at ABAC but regardless I as a retired plumber greatly appreciate and enjoy your videos.I have learned so much on top of the base knowledge I had just from being around construction.Thank you for sharing and be blessed.
Advice to everyone: When it comes to ATC Mini fuses, please only buy reputable brands like Eaton-Bussmann and Littelfuse. While you can definitely find better deals online, many of the no-name brands can handle far more current than rated capacity for much longer than is safe for the circuits they're protecting. This is one of the times where you don't want to cut costs. (Mental note: If I ever build a house, be sure to install good lighting directly over the thermostat for HVAC techs!)
Lately, I've discovered quite a few poor connections on old Carrier Infinity communicating systems. Over time, the outside board connections need to be re-wired with clean, bare wire due to the copper oxidizing. Quick, easy fix for lots of communication faults at the T-Stat when you can't find any faults with sensors, etc.
Great job using Kearney clamps with Rubber tape, it fuses together into one Blob then electrical tape. Aluminum Wire has no place there for such a short run, false economy. Wire nuts that big are ridiculous 😄 Twice I have seen Capacitors out of tolerance causing high current drain but it is just an observation. Thanks for the informative Video! 👍😃
Kearney clamps, been a long time since I heard that, I had forgotten. You could use a plug type connector, small wires on one side and the big one on the other, but then you have more places to corrode. Done correctly though, it would eliminate the need for tape at all.
I've used those connectors many times and never thought of using rubber tape first. They make different kinds of connectors for that, but I always prefered those type. Nice job.
It keeps failing from oxidation. You need to use something like Noalox on the connection due to joining copper to aluminum. Standard use by electricians and code…use rubber tape first followed by vinyl tape
Aluminum? Isn't there supposed to be some extras steps when dealing with aluminum wiring? I would have expected a mention of it, like using CU-AL rated hardware and/or some goop to prevent corrosion from dissimilar metals.
A bit of searching suggests the split bolt needs to be a special type with a divider that keeps the two metals separate. That may be what went wrong with it originally. I guess goop isn't needed.
Love that 3M tape ! The larger rolls are more economical to purchase however, sometimes are more difficult when using them, such as in this repair pushing the tape roll through those connected wires. I saw a trick where the tech would take something smaller that is round, in his case he used a 3/4" or 7/8" socket (wrench) and unrolled from the tape roll what he thought he needed onto the round socket. That gave him a smaller "roll" of tape to get into tighter spaces ! It works too...
It works well with any kind of tape. I have even used a small roll of only tape rolled up. I try to save the end of a roll of tape for close quarter work.
i did not see you apply any oxidation inhibitor paste to your aluminum to copper wire connection , standard procedure when joining dissimilar metals to prevent corrosion
should alum, wire And copper be squeezed in the conection with out a spiter in the split bolt .? just wondering.i was taught a over c in open conections on over head power lines
Never put copper and aluminum together. They do not get along with each other due to galvanic corrosion. You can get split bolts with partitions to separate the different metals.
Curtis I don't believe split copper bolts are an approved method for jointing two dissimilar metal wire. That why corrosion and heat occur in the first place. They make special connector for dissimilar metal wire. Check your supply house.
May I suggest a good quality wire stripping tool, quicker and safer with less strand damage, and an assortment of good wire connectors, Not wire nuts or Split bolts. Jmho
Hydro line voltage fluctuates, 240 under normal operating conditions can vary between 220 and 250 volts. In extreme conditions, 212 to 254 volts is considered within tolerance. The time of day, temperature, moisture, system load, and even your location in the distribution network can all cause variations in voltage.
@@jenko701 I do minor electrical as part of my job. But I'm not an electrician. I think it's all about "Line Loss". The longer the transmission line, the greater the loss in power due to resistance. If you look at Curtis's meter when testing for 240, it usually reads around 247. Likewise testing for the low voltage it was reading 28.7 Volts rather than 24volts. He was probably pretty close to a sub-station or a main feeder for that area.
You did it wrong the minute you put the wires together. You need to antioxid paste on the wire . Those connections will corrode. Around here an inspector would reject your connections in aluminum if no paste.
Any HVAC who works with aluminum wire risks burning down the house, in the US common aluminum wiring was banned in the late 1970s - Too many houses burned down - And out of the millions of existing houses with aluminum wiring some burn down every year - I wouldn't want to be the last guy who touched it.
SMART Thermostats are STUPID and Many result in FAILURE. Not Difficult to Wire it up but you do need a little more Training than just Replacing a Battery. 🤪👎
Your honesty is what keeps me watching Curtis. I have found that when merging copper and aluminum wire , some dielectric grease works to keep the wires from oxidizing due to different expansion rates of the two types of metal. 👍👍🇨🇦
Good tip! I honestly just didn’t think of it.
Great Reminder. 👍🙏
It’s not expansion rates, galvanic action of dissimilar metals
@@davidb2438 tomatoe tamatoe, the fact that they expand and contract at different rates will cause the dissimilar metals to arc and will cause oxidation and corrosion.
Very true, different metals don't play well together, some even cause a "battery" type of affect, which can cause an electrolysis.@@danobrien3109
Gotta add the "me too" comment about bi-metallic terminations. Galvanic corrosion is inevitable and is why the CU-AL wiring devices have mostly gone away outside of industrial and supply service uses. I'd liberally apply Noalox to all wires (brush the Nolaox into the strands of stranded wires) and inside the brass split bolt. Another poster has a great Scotch 33 + self amalgamating tape insulation technique that is very similar to what we use on exposed RF communications cables.
The fact that you kill the power and you're scared of it shows you are a good Tech because no matter what even if I kill the power I still play it safe
Speaking from years of making splice connections, i would apply the noalox to all metal connections, then a single layer of 3M 33 electrical tape. after that apply the splicing tape as you stretch it so that it is approximately 1/2 inch wide. this is done so that the splicing tape will try to return to its normal width of about 3/4 inch causing the splicing tape to bond the layers together. Then a few layers of 33 on the outside will insure proper sealing of the connection. the point of the first layer of 33, it will prevent the splicing tape from sticking to the metal parts making it much easier to remove the splicing tape if you ever need to disconnect the splice. Believe me when i say this, just try it and you will see.
And put the first layer of 33 tape on sticky side up for the same reason.
Don’t know if you know this but beside the dielectric grease there are torque values that needs to be applied and the amount of wires allowed for that terminal was over limit I think ! for me it’s better not to use that type of connection due to so many problems that it could bring there are way better ones available than Frankenstein laboratory lol
Curtis, unless you apply some NoAlOx or Ox-Gard liberally on the copper to aluminum connection, the corrosion and resulting high resistance WILL return. I’ve seen you use Ox-Gard in the past. Anytime you make a connection with aluminum wire you should be using it. Same goes for when you install a disconnect with aluminum feeders; use Ox-Gard!
I just forgot. But, I do appreciate the remarks, so others can learn, and to help me make a mental note to do it next time.
The problems splicing aluminum wire to copper wire led to the discontinuation/ban on aluminum wire inside residential houses, over time the aluminum to copper joints would move, then they would heat up - Many, many houses burned to the ground before aluminum wire was banned in the late 1970s or so. Aluminum wiring is allowed as entrance wire up to the panel, after that NO. If I was an HVAC guy I would never, ever touch aluminum wiring - the liability risks are enormous - even decades after you make the splice bad things can/will happen at your splice, and you will be blamed. - Call an electrician who has special liability insurance. Aluminum wiring is still in millions of homes - and every year some of those homes burn down because of the aluminum to copper wiring. Just run far away, it isn't worth it.
Mobile homes used to be notorious for using aluminum wiring, people died every month because of it, sometimes entire families died. Most of those mobil homes are now gone, but the houses wired with less expensive than copper wire will be around for a hundred years. The aluminum to copper splices can heat up to over 200 degrees F, it doesn't matter of the circuit/outlet is in use or not. Inside houses NO aluminum wiring.
There are special split-bolts designed to join aluminum to copper wire, they are rated for that - the ones I know about are copper split-bolt that was plated with tin, tin doesn't react to either metal. the aluminum wire only touches the tin, the copper wire only touches the tin These split-bolts cost more -- about $10 each. See Southwire SB2/0-8CPD Split Bolt Connector as an example.
Curtis will be OK here, any fire would be outside of the house. Inside the house is a much different story.
@@davidnull5590- looks like the lack of noalox could have been the reason for the hot spot in this example?
Use split bolt
With divider keep alum and cooper separated
Long, long ago, there were two types of tapes to use for electrical things - you **HAD** to use both kinds; on a spice you would wrap "rubber electrical" tape around the joint; then you had to wrap "electric friction" tape over the rubber electrical tape - Both were needed. Friction tape is a cloth tape that can be used to protect electrical tape from sharp objects. In the early 1960s improvements in tape and plastics led to the creation of one tape that could be used for an electrical connection. The older, the two tape method, had many problems and they didn't last. Today 3M sells modern friction tape, 'Friction Tape 1755' is a black friction tape designed to provide mechanical protection against abrasion and cut through for cable, wire splices and connections insulated with rubber electrical tape.
Go Dawgs from Winder Ga!! You may remember I’m the one that went to school in Tifton at ABAC but regardless I as a retired plumber greatly appreciate and enjoy your videos.I have learned so much on top of the base knowledge I had just from being around construction.Thank you for sharing and be blessed.
Welcome back!
Thanks for more great diagnostics
Advice to everyone: When it comes to ATC Mini fuses, please only buy reputable brands like Eaton-Bussmann and Littelfuse. While you can definitely find better deals online, many of the no-name brands can handle far more current than rated capacity for much longer than is safe for the circuits they're protecting. This is one of the times where you don't want to cut costs.
(Mental note: If I ever build a house, be sure to install good lighting directly over the thermostat for HVAC techs!)
Riley!!!
I really enjoy your videos Curtis. Thank u for showing your work
My pleasure!
Great Video. Thank you for sharing. Have a nice weekend ^_^
Thank you! You too!
When using a split bolt for aluminum & copper wiring, it must be rated for cu/Al
Nice work Curtis.
A nice neat repair Curtis, i doubt if those those wires will pull out of that line tap you tightened and taped up 😉 Au
Hi.
Scotch 130C are here in Finland very expensive , abt. 40$ /roll, so no extra layers :=)
3M make good quality products,.
have a good day
The price in the US is similar, 1 inch by 30 feet $30. There are a few tricky, misleading sellers who have lower prices.
Another great job 👍👍👍
Lately, I've discovered quite a few poor connections on old Carrier Infinity communicating systems. Over time, the outside board connections need to be re-wired with clean, bare wire due to the copper oxidizing. Quick, easy fix for lots of communication faults at the T-Stat when you can't find any faults with sensors, etc.
Great job using Kearney clamps with Rubber tape, it fuses together into one Blob then electrical tape. Aluminum Wire has no place there for such a short run, false economy. Wire nuts that big are ridiculous 😄
Twice I have seen Capacitors out of tolerance causing high current drain but it is just an observation.
Thanks for the informative Video! 👍😃
Kearney clamps, been a long time since I heard that, I had forgotten. You could use a plug type connector, small wires on one side and the big one on the other, but then you have more places to corrode. Done correctly though, it would eliminate the need for tape at all.
I've used those connectors many times and never thought of using rubber tape first. They make different kinds of connectors for that, but I always prefered those type. Nice job.
It keeps failing from oxidation. You need to use something like Noalox on the connection due to joining copper to aluminum. Standard use by electricians and code…use rubber tape first followed by vinyl tape
Aluminum? Isn't there supposed to be some extras steps when dealing with aluminum wiring? I would have expected a mention of it, like using CU-AL rated hardware and/or some goop to prevent corrosion from dissimilar metals.
A bit of searching suggests the split bolt needs to be a special type with a divider that keeps the two metals separate. That may be what went wrong with it originally. I guess goop isn't needed.
Have you ever tried using Polaris plugs in place of split bolts? That’s my preferred method for connecting high voltage like that
Not yet.
Polaris plugs are rated for AL and CU. The wires are separated.
Curtis, How long was it between the first repair that you did and this repair?
Great video brother 🤟💯🌎
Where is your antioxidant paste. It prevents corrosion.
Love that 3M tape ! The larger rolls are more economical to purchase however, sometimes are more difficult when using them, such as in this repair pushing the tape roll through those connected wires. I saw a trick where the tech would take something smaller that is round, in his case he used a 3/4" or 7/8" socket (wrench) and unrolled from the tape roll what he thought he needed onto the round socket. That gave him a smaller "roll" of tape to get into tighter spaces ! It works too...
Good idea, I usually tear some off, but not when using so much.
Is that you Eric O. SMA?
It works well with any kind of tape. I have even used a small roll of only tape rolled up.
I try to save the end of a roll of tape for close quarter work.
@@davidnull5590He is a good mechanic/shop
i did not see you apply any oxidation inhibitor paste to your aluminum to copper wire connection , standard procedure when joining dissimilar metals to prevent corrosion
I didn't know udid hvac?
@@Hvac-dude over 20 years in northern california
should alum, wire And copper be squeezed in the conection with out a spiter in the split bolt .? just wondering.i was taught a over c in open conections on over head power lines
I should’ve use Noalox or there is a split bolt that separates the two. But, you’re right Noalox should’ve been used.
Those type Honeywell are fragile. The older ones would melt down a transformer and still work great
I use 3m super 33 wrapped 4 times. Its good for 600VAC at 105c.
6:27 That living room had a christmas tree in it. What is up with that??
Penetrox on those connections and you’ll not have any problems for those dissimilar connections. How bout the Dawgs today😊
They looked really good didn’t they?
@@HVACGUY They did for a fact!
did they actually already have their Christmas 🎄 set up?
Yes
In my opinion I don’t care for pleyer wrenches. Rather have two adjustable . 😊
Who makes the needle nose that you use?
Never put copper and aluminum together. They do not get along with each other due to galvanic corrosion. You can get split bolts with partitions to separate the different metals.
Curtis I don't believe split copper bolts are an approved method for jointing two dissimilar metal wire. That why corrosion and heat occur in the first place. They make special connector for dissimilar metal wire. Check your supply house.
👍
May I suggest a good quality wire stripping tool, quicker and safer with less strand damage, and an assortment of good wire connectors, Not wire nuts or Split bolts. Jmho
The bull dowgs bit the gators a$$ today
Yeh, they did. I’m beginning to believe they’ll make the playoffs, not sure they’ll win. But, they looked good today.
👍👍😊😊
🙂👍
250 Volts , 240 maybe .
Depends on how far the location is from the substation. This location must be close.
Hydro line voltage fluctuates, 240 under normal operating conditions can vary between 220 and 250 volts. In extreme conditions, 212 to 254 volts is considered within tolerance. The time of day, temperature, moisture, system load, and even your location in the distribution network can all cause variations in voltage.
@@patrickinottawa27 Thanks , in North Carolina I have not seen that variation. Kind of like 110 grew to 120 , 220 grew to 240 .
@@jenko701 I do minor electrical as part of my job. But I'm not an electrician. I think it's all about "Line Loss". The longer the transmission line, the greater the loss in power due to resistance. If you look at Curtis's meter when testing for 240, it usually reads around 247. Likewise testing for the low voltage it was reading 28.7 Volts rather than 24volts. He was probably pretty close to a sub-station or a main feeder for that area.
You did it wrong the minute you put the wires together. You need to antioxid paste on the wire . Those connections will corrode. Around here an inspector would reject your connections in aluminum if no paste.
Where is "around here"?
You did it wrong
Different states require different codes.
Any HVAC who works with aluminum wire risks burning down the house, in the US common aluminum wiring was banned in the late 1970s - Too many houses burned down - And out of the millions of existing houses with aluminum wiring some burn down every year - I wouldn't want to be the last guy who touched it.
Aluminum wire🔥
SMART Thermostats are STUPID and Many result in FAILURE. Not Difficult to Wire it up but you do need a little more Training than just Replacing a Battery. 🤪👎
Thank god your not an HVAC instructor.