I've got the Hantek TO22 equivalent meter (1833c) and already ordered those pre-made Kelvin leads you pointed out on your video from Aliexpress a few weeks ago, so i'll let you know how they go. I've seen user reviews on Aliexpress that they work fine for this meter but will be interesting to see if they improve accuracy on measurements.
Forgot to reply here, the Kelvin leads definitely help this meter, it's still not perfect, but for the price of this meter, it's good. Been using it a lot lately to confirm ESR readings on SMD capacitors and it's quite close to factory ratings.
@@adrianleitch6996 I have bought one of these Hantek 1833C LCR Meters. I'm gonna receive it today. But I think the guard port is not functional. It is connected to ground and no signal exists on the guard port. You may want to watch the video "Is This Guarding Terminal a Dud (See Comments)? Guarding Explained, Hantek 1833C LCR Meter Revisited" on youtube.
For RF components: up to how many pF can be measured and with what accuracy? For the inductance I would be interested to know if, at an extremely approximate level, it is possible to use it to easily build turns in the air for tens/hundreds of nH, and then weld them and definitively model them on the final circuit (with the VNA). If this is not possible, what would you recommend as a cheap bridge, perhaps (also Chinese) complete with Kelvin pliers? Thanks
i`m working on fixing a pair of kelvin clips for an mastech ms5308 that i picked up used, the wiring on mine cracked right where in enters the clip causing leakage in the megohms, it was annoying to troubleshoot, i think ill just replace the whole wire with the one from this video , thanks
Do you have any experience with the hantek portable oscilloscope? It’s looks almost identical to your LCR meter. I need a good portable scope to take with me when doing repairs on the road and away from my lab… I really don’t want to spend $500 for a siglent or micsig… And I think the hantek would do just fine.
I always wondered why the both wires are soldered to just one side. If the contact point is where they need to touch why wouldn't you solder each wire to separate legs ?
Are you aware that there is no signal coming out of the guard terminal of this Hantek? It should have the same voltage as the "hot" lead. Suggest you hook up your scope to hot and ground and then to guard and ground and see what happens.
At 3:52 you appear to describe the connections incorrectly: "plus and minus in the same shield". Surely that should be "Hpot and Hcur in the same shield, Lpot and Lcur in the second cable also together in the same shield"?
Hi! I'm glad about finding this video (and the link to tindie) while I'm about to build something similar! But you do not show the details of the connection of the cable to the clips. Certainly, you connect one wire to one jaw and the other wire to the other jaw while keeping the shield unconnected. Do I guess correctly?
A comparison to a measurement with the 2 wire method and your high quality probes would have been nice. I'm not super convinced a kelvin measurement is that useful for a LCR meter as lead resistance can be zeroed out, voltage drop is not a major concern and parasitic capacitance should be pretty much negligible at low frequencies.
I think the really low Impedance/ESR measurements would benefit the most with the Kelvin leads, on ultra low ESR capacitors for example, as even putting a small amount of strain on the banana leads will vastly impact your measurements, but in this situation i'm wondering if that thin AWG cable used here is thick enough, I know the meter can be short calibrated and rel zeroed but I still wonder.
I'm looking for a DIY Arduino based LCR project. One that uses 4-wire clips like these. Know of one? Did some googling. All the good ones are closed source.
Don't have anything to hand? Strip a lamps wire. Twist them together, cover in aluminium foil tape strips connect a wire to the foil carefully and run it into guard, For the clips run the wires up the outside of a wooden peg and alumium foil them to the tip, leaving some copper exposed. run the other two non-sensing leads; shield if you wish. Attach to the other side of the peg, repeat foil/copper pad hack... Sprinkle with solder if you have some, heatshrink to taste.
@@voltlog Super, I'm looking forward for them. I'will order two of these with PCBs. It's hard to understand why Hantek does not include or offer a kelvin clips and tweezers kit with their own meter.
@@adrianleitch6996 You need to learn about resistance vs. reactance, etc. True, if it's testing at 40kHz, it'll be...difficult...to get meaningful ESR readings of 33pF!
@@qwaqwa1960 What would you approximate the ESR reading should be then? keep in mind the meter in the above video must have tested it somewhere between 100hz - 40khz as that's all the meter can do. The Equivalent series resistance will be very high at lower frequencies whether this is accurate or not
@@adrianleitch6996 Under 1 Ω I would think. Xc @40k is about 125 kΩ, so the ESR of "800 Ω" (0.6% of Xc) is understandable, and probably within the meter's spec (if it *is* spec'd), even if wildly wrong.
@@qwaqwa1960 Well, I just did a few searches on TDK's online capacitor selector, a 100pF mlcc ceramic capacitor has an average ESR of 350 ohms at 40khz - it didn't show anything for 33pF but you can extrapolate from that... 800 ohms is in the ballpark. Unless their figures are approximated and also wildly off?
Your connector is loaded with your fingerprints. Not good for measurements because of the slightest oil on the gold strip can throw your measurements off..
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You can order the PCB adapter shown in the video here voltlog.com/y/5j964
salutare. prin cine iti faci pcb-urile? vorbesc in general, nu doar adaptorul asta.
@@andidotro A zis/scris ca, cel putin pentru proiectul asta, a folosit PCBWay, dar in alte situatii a folosit JLCPCB. Pana la urma ambele sunt bune.
That's turned out very nice. I just wanted to point out an alternative pair of kelvin clips called eta3105, those are very very nice build
I've got the Hantek TO22 equivalent meter (1833c) and already ordered those pre-made Kelvin leads you pointed out on your video from Aliexpress a few weeks ago, so i'll let you know how they go. I've seen user reviews on Aliexpress that they work fine for this meter but will be interesting to see if they improve accuracy on measurements.
I think guard is fake on Hantek handheld LCR meters. It is connected to ground.
Forgot to reply here, the Kelvin leads definitely help this meter, it's still not perfect, but for the price of this meter, it's good. Been using it a lot lately to confirm ESR readings on SMD capacitors and it's quite close to factory ratings.
@@adrianleitch6996 I have bought one of these Hantek 1833C LCR Meters. I'm gonna receive it today. But I think the guard port is not functional. It is connected to ground and no signal exists on the guard port. You may want to watch the video "Is This Guarding Terminal a Dud (See Comments)? Guarding Explained, Hantek 1833C LCR Meter Revisited" on youtube.
@@adrianleitch6996 I received the LCR Meter. I'm gonna test it's GUARD port and inform you.
Hi, how is the wire's connection in the tips?
For RF components: up to how many pF can be measured and with what accuracy? For the inductance I would be interested to know if, at an extremely approximate level, it is possible to use it to easily build turns in the air for tens/hundreds of nH, and then weld them and definitively model them on the final circuit (with the VNA). If this is not possible, what would you recommend as a cheap bridge, perhaps (also Chinese) complete with Kelvin pliers? Thanks
where the ground wire connect on the crocodile clips ???
i`m working on fixing a pair of kelvin clips for an mastech ms5308 that i picked up used, the wiring on mine cracked right where in enters the clip causing leakage in the megohms, it was annoying to troubleshoot, i think ill just replace the whole wire with the one from this video , thanks
You don't need to use twisted cables to reduce parasitic impedance?
Do you have any experience with the hantek portable oscilloscope? It’s looks almost identical to your LCR meter. I need a good portable scope to take with me when doing repairs on the road and away from my lab… I really don’t want to spend $500 for a siglent or micsig… And I think the hantek would do just fine.
I always wondered why the both wires are soldered to just one side. If the contact point is where they need to touch why wouldn't you solder each wire to separate legs ?
Are you aware that there is no signal coming out of the guard terminal of this Hantek? It should have the same voltage as the "hot" lead. Suggest you hook up your scope to hot and ground and then to guard and ground and see what happens.
Great Buddy ❤️❤️🔥
Mine came with twizers type test leads and honestly I don't the need of replace them.
When you calibrate, do you do short or open calibration? Or maybe both?
At 3:52 you appear to describe the connections incorrectly: "plus and minus in the same shield". Surely that should be "Hpot and Hcur in the same shield, Lpot and Lcur in the second cable also together in the same shield"?
Correct, that's how they're wired: "Hpot and Hcur in the same shield, Lpot and Lcur in the second cable also together in the same shield"
@@voltlog Shouldn't sense + and - be coaxial to remove CMN? Although yes this requires you to split them again at the clips.
Hello,
Would this work for a GenRad 1657 RLC digibridge, I think it might be a good idea. Please let me know. Thank you kindly
Hi! I'm glad about finding this video (and the link to tindie) while I'm about to build something similar! But you do not show the details of the connection of the cable to the clips. Certainly, you connect one wire to one jaw and the other wire to the other jaw while keeping the shield unconnected. Do I guess correctly?
Hi! @5:00 there is the discussion regarding how the wires are attached to the clips and you are correct shield is isolated and unconnected.
@@voltlog Oh, thanks! Somehow I managed to stare at the clips, and to overlook the text.
I wonder if that board would fit the der ee de-5000 lcr meter??
I guess it does not work with the de-5000.
A comparison to a measurement with the 2 wire method and your high quality probes would have been nice. I'm not super convinced a kelvin measurement is that useful for a LCR meter as lead resistance can be zeroed out, voltage drop is not a major concern and parasitic capacitance should be pretty much negligible at low frequencies.
I think the really low Impedance/ESR measurements would benefit the most with the Kelvin leads, on ultra low ESR capacitors for example, as even putting a small amount of strain on the banana leads will vastly impact your measurements, but in this situation i'm wondering if that thin AWG cable used here is thick enough, I know the meter can be short calibrated and rel zeroed but I still wonder.
I'm looking for a DIY Arduino based LCR project.
One that uses 4-wire clips like these. Know of one?
Did some googling. All the good ones are closed source.
I did not encounter such a project so far.
Nice work.
What is the price in$ ?
Thanks
Don't have anything to hand? Strip a lamps wire. Twist them together, cover in aluminium foil tape strips connect a wire to the foil carefully and run it into guard, For the clips run the wires up the outside of a wooden peg and alumium foil them to the tip, leaving some copper exposed. run the other two non-sensing leads; shield if you wish. Attach to the other side of the peg, repeat foil/copper pad hack... Sprinkle with solder if you have some, heatshrink to taste.
Great Information, Thank you.
I think guard is fake on Hantek handheld LCR meters. It is connected to ground.
I received the LCR Meter. I'm gonna test it's GUARD port and inform you.
This PCB adapter is very intereseting. Where I can buy this PCB? I’m from canada
I will add the PCB to my Tindie store soon and you will be able to order it there.
You can order the PCB adapter here voltlog.com/y/5j964 Use discount code A101B3FF for a special price.
@@voltlog Can you add the plastic case too for order?
I would order both. Thanks
@@michelgauvin2473 I'll have a go at printing a couple of those this week and let you know how it goes.
@@voltlog Super, I'm looking forward for them. I'will order two of these with PCBs. It's hard to understand why Hantek does not include or offer a kelvin clips and tweezers kit with their own meter.
Muito video. Material mostrado e sempre melhor.
Why is it important that the clips are isolated from each other? If you put them on something they are no longer isolated from each other
800 Ω ESR? Hmm...??
it's a 33pF capacitor it's going to have high resistance at
@@adrianleitch6996 You need to learn about resistance vs. reactance, etc. True, if it's testing at 40kHz, it'll be...difficult...to get meaningful ESR readings of 33pF!
@@qwaqwa1960 What would you approximate the ESR reading should be then? keep in mind the meter in the above video must have tested it somewhere between 100hz - 40khz as that's all the meter can do. The Equivalent series resistance will be very high at lower frequencies whether this is accurate or not
@@adrianleitch6996 Under 1 Ω I would think. Xc @40k is about 125 kΩ, so the ESR of "800 Ω" (0.6% of Xc) is understandable, and probably within the meter's spec (if it *is* spec'd), even if wildly wrong.
@@qwaqwa1960 Well, I just did a few searches on TDK's online capacitor selector, a 100pF mlcc ceramic capacitor has an average ESR of 350 ohms at 40khz - it didn't show anything for 33pF but you can extrapolate from that... 800 ohms is in the ballpark. Unless their figures are approximated and also wildly off?
Your connector is loaded with your fingerprints. Not good for measurements because of the slightest oil on the gold strip can throw your measurements off..
Детский лепет. Это не кельвин подключение.
not accurate, dont do it like that