The grain on the back is looking beautiful. It looked good when it was a flat slab but once glued up and routed down to final shape it takes it to a new level.
I have been looking for a way to clamp my cradles I make for my art panels... THIS IS A GREAT WAY TO DO THINGS! Clamping things to a flat work surface has been a real issue, so far I have been using dead weights to hold the cradle down on the panel back... but now I see a better (and much cheaper) way to get steadfast clamping pressure all at once everywhere I need it!
What would happen if you made the sound hole oval instead or round? That way you could keep it from being too close to the edge as well as being farther from the base area.
When you use the router to trim the back, how do you avoid chipping or blowing out the corners by the neck cutaway and also the neck pocket? I’ve got limited experience using a router, and even less about building guitars but with such a thin piece i can see those corners splintering quite easily
I come gently in and take very SMALL bites. Don't rush it I'm going to do something like that this morning in my next video. Just take SMALL bites. Practice on something first.
The router is a directional cutting tool, so when entering the work, you want to orient the bit so that the "In cut is facing the outermost edge of the cut, then pull backward along the length of the cut, stopping just short of the end point. Then take a chisel to the last 1/8th inch of the cut, for the smoothest, best results. The chipout always happens on the trailing edge of the spinning bit.
What looks like laminating at the 1:10 mark are pencil lines to guide him when carving it into final shape. You can see the carved brace #1 at the 3:00 mark.
Glad to see a new video. Fascinating about the size, placement and adjustment of the sound hole. Keep on keepin on sir!
More to come!
The grain on the back is looking beautiful. It looked good when it was a flat slab but once glued up and routed down to final shape it takes it to a new level.
I agree. I don't know if I should french polish or lacquer it. lol
I was thinking earlier we're overdue a Monty video! About to watch now, cheers.
Hope you enjoy!
thank you Monty . those are called outside spring calipers. i used em as a machinist they come in various sizes inside and out side
Thanks for the info. I didn't know the name. I've had them here for years. lol
I have been looking for a way to clamp my cradles I make for my art panels... THIS IS A GREAT WAY TO DO THINGS!
Clamping things to a flat work surface has been a real issue, so far I have been using dead weights to hold the cradle down on the panel back... but now I see a better (and much cheaper) way to get steadfast clamping pressure all at once everywhere I need it!
I really enjoy how you work through and solve problems. Great video!
I'm glad you enjoyed that.
I like your explanation of the soundhole
Thank you.
Great video, loved it!!
Thanks so much!
At last! I was beginning to worry. Congratulations on making a boat! 😉
Very interesting episode 🙂, learned new things today.
Glad you enjoyed it!
What would happen if you made the sound hole oval instead or round? That way you could keep it from being too close to the edge as well as being farther from the base area.
As long as the sq footage is the same it should be fine.
@@MontyMcKinnon Excellent, so what if we got really crazy and did a star shaped cutout? :)
Is there a substitute for hyde glue on the purfling?
I tape everything in place an then use Starbond CA glue and accelerator. Works great.
When you use the router to trim the back, how do you avoid chipping or blowing out the corners by the neck cutaway and also the neck pocket? I’ve got limited experience using a router, and even less about building guitars but with such a thin piece i can see those corners splintering quite easily
I come gently in and take very SMALL bites. Don't rush it I'm going to do something like that this morning in my next video. Just take SMALL bites. Practice on something first.
Monty McKinnon Thank you! I look forward to seeing how it’s done
The router is a directional cutting tool, so when entering the work, you want to orient the bit so that the "In cut is facing the outermost edge of the cut, then pull backward along the length of the cut, stopping just short of the end point. Then take a chisel to the last 1/8th inch of the cut, for the smoothest, best results. The chipout always happens on the trailing edge of the spinning bit.
Monte, thanks for the very useful details. Your mistake could keep the rest of us from a similar mistake. This was a good video.
That is my goal and also to point out YOU CAN DO THIS!!!!
It looks like the first back brace is laminated. Correct? Why?
What looks like laminating at the 1:10 mark are pencil lines to guide him when carving it into final shape. You can see the carved brace #1 at the 3:00 mark.
No it one solid piece.