A few months back, I replaced the u-joints in my '94 2 door Country edition. Its a 4.0 automatic with 416k on the odometer! I bought CV's a little after you came out with your last video on the topic. She's got a factory limited slip in the 8.25 rear. I just replaced the clutches on it. And it's got a tru trac limited slip in the front. I inspected it and change the gear oil. I went to O'Reilly's and came home with the yellow boxes. Lifetime warranty, just like you said. I haven't put very many miles on it since I put the axles in. The Jeep fell off the jack and put a big old dent in the oil pan. While I had the pan off I inspected my rod bearings and mains. It's just been sitting on jack stands waiting for me to put new bearings in the lower end along with new seals and an oil pump. When will it end? J ust E mpty E very P ocket !!! 0[][][][][][][]0
Well I'm excited for this one! I swapped my u-joint shafts to CVs about 3 years ago and they absolutely make the steering smoother, but they are starting to make strange noises, so I'm debating switching back.
Trackmotive CV axles on Rockauto are less than $100 shipped for a pair. Hard to beat that. Part numbers are CH8220 and CH8221. I haven't done any wheeling yet on mine but they were certainly cheaper than swapping in good known u-joint axles. If you are super worried about breaking them, just bring a pair of new spares for an additional $100. Seems like a no brainer. Technically there's a warranty from Trackmotive but the wording in it pretty much rules out hard core wheeling.
I have a red 98 xj that i bought with cv axle shafts, i have since replaced them with new cv axle shafts but in my experience, the cv axle shaft is definitely smoother when hitting potholes in the road and just general daily driving over the u joint axle shafts, i also have noticed they are cheaper to purchase over the u joint shafts, getting those u joints out is a nightmare without a press but not impossible just an absolute nightmare, not as easy as a driveshaft u joint, either one is a good option they just are like opposite of each other in operation
Im a TJ guy that wheels and likes to drive home. I recently discovered this channel and found that cv axles work in my jeep and have already switched. The way i see it the cv axles are better than rcv because i have to wait and get my rcv replacement when i could go to oreillys and get them lifetime warranty.
One downside I’ve found with the rcv axles is you won’t break an axle but now I break ring and pinions. I’ve gone through four sets of Yukon 4.56s and one set of motive gear 4.56s. This is with a 30 spline rcv and Yukon grizzly locker and 33” tires
Dex good video, it reminded me I need to buy a set of WJ /ZJ CV axle shafts to plug in my LJ axle. When I changed one of the u-joints in it I didn't have access to all my tools so no 36mm socket for the hub nut. So it was changed with hub attached to stub shaft. On a tree stump. It was one of the easiest ones I've had to do. But I found it early enough to not destroy the shafts.
I had a YJ with a welded d30. 35s. I put a short side cv axle in. I left the CAD and right side axle joint. In a season i broke 3 joints. Still the same cv.
All the machine needs is splines to mount the axle in a spider gear welded to some big tube mounted to the floor a really big torque wrench to turn it till it breaks
Yoi convinced me so I put in new trakmotive cv in my 01 xj. me getting closer to 60 makes trail repairs kinda hard anymore so I am glad I installed them today. Thanks
i know you will probably never see this comment but i heard in the beginning where u talked about “life time warranty” from oreilys but im actually a autozone employee we fully support are life time warranty’s no matter how u break them and u can get both of them through commercial for 140 bucks so alittle more than oreilys but i promise we give a lot lease of a hassle when it comes to warranty’s
Great Video guys, this is one thing I have been wanting to do. I do have one question though, what is the total length of the CV shafts compared to the u-joint shafts? I have been wondering if the CV axles are shorter and would work best when doing the WJ brake upgrade on a D30.
Your content never cease to amaze me! 😂 I just rebuilt my axles with chrome moly shafts and now buying cv. Thank for the great comparison but I can't believe you y'all are giving up on finding that snake. What are the model numbers for the cv axles I have a 1999 xj? By the way do they come with a lifetime warranty? 😜
Not on a jeep but my old lifted 99 ram 1500 had u joints and i swear i had to replace both front u joints yearly. "But thats part of having lifted truck and big tires so no biggie" however you would think they wouldn't be as hard to replace but i swear one out of 4 might come out easy and the other 3 you have multiple people beating it with a giant socket and mini sledge hammer. A few ended up getting a torch which is very dangerous because the caps will literally shoot off like a missile. My buddies dad had a cap shoot the roof of the garage😂 lets not forget the dummies at the parts store will always give you the wrong ones. They gave me two for the rear even tho i specifically said front. So with my front end tore apart we found out we had to go all the way back for the right ones. So when i got cv axles with my 05 ram i was tickled pink. They seem to last way longer and nowhere as hard to fix imo. This is random but i highly recommend RockAuto. Ive used them for years and ive bought front half axle shafts, cv axles, differential seals, rotors, ball joints, upper/lower control arms, radiator, water pump, spark plug wires, coil packs, wheel hubs and prolly lots im not thinking of. Ive never got the wrong part or a broken part. The shipping is like $15 for standard like 4 day shipping but you could pay more for like one day shipping but im trying to save money in this economy😂 just find your make and model and then read description itll say this hub is for 2 wheel drivel or this hub has abs or not etc but ive never had an issue over the last like 10 years of using them. If a wheel hub is $250 at autozone/advance then i almost gurantee i can get one for $60 including shipping. Most have warranties and you can say its cheap parts but ive never had to replace a part that ive got from them and i put alot of miles on my trucks. Its scary to think how much money ive saved. Heck the half axles i bought was like 10 years ago and i think they was like $18 for short axle and $20ish for long axle and still going strong. Ive showed it to guys that restore vehicles and they said they could get all the replacement body panels for the same price as one panel from where they typically get theirs. Good luck and try and save as much cash as you can in these times especially if your driving old beat up trucks like me
Thank you for this video had this debate with a few different people. I wheel a WJ so I'm probably CV far superior design I carry a spare for each side
I was at rbd that year. I’ve been to a lot of off road events an im not sure I have ever nor will I ever hear a crowd go as wild as they did when he made it up tht hill😂
Well, you can rebuild the U joint on the side of the trail and get you home, but that’s the only major pro I can think of. Idk if it’s weird or not but I carry an extra U joint for that reason, I also carry a ball joint kit which makes the install much easier.
I run ZJ CV axles in my TJ. I have a 242 transfer case and a 5 speed manual and U-joints were horrible when turning in Full Time mode. The factory ZJ CV axle shaft necks down quite a bit to plug into the CV, and that's where they break if you abuse them. FWIW, The CV is a bit weaker overall but doesn't care what angle it's at. It is stronger than a U-joint by the time you're at about half lock. Aftermarket CV's are crazy strong but have pretty crappy boots for a daily driven vehicle...
We had a 96 dodge 1500 and back in the early 2000's we went through a mud hole and broke the ears off threw the u joint on the passenger side axle. We drove it home about 20 miles home. That was back before all these internet places you can buy axles. Cost about 500 bucks to get someone to fix it
CV is nice if you break one you can drive it out of the woods and no chance to separate the ball joints and knuckles. They are weaker but I’d take my chances with cv over breaking a u joint and popping the knuckle off on the trail
I have analogies paralysis. Should I step up to at least a 44 or keep the 30 or go with the cheap CVs or go with RCV🤷♂️. Excellent video as I’m a fan of your shenanigans 😂
Lifetime Warranty, man that is awesome. so if I'm on a trail in Colorado or Moab and the cv axle breaks. You mean all I have to do is step out of my Jeep and say Lifetime Warranty and BAM a brand new one will appear on the trail. Man that's great, no more carrying a spare U-Joint around for trail fixes.
My question is will the cv axles fit into the factory front end of a 88 jeep Wrangler yj . I know they will no longer have the axle disconnect. How much should or will cut gas mileage if they fit without the disconnect???
Thanks guys. I have a bone stock '01 XJ, I'm assuming that the CV swap would work with mine? No central axle disconnect. Dana 30 front axle, 231J T-Case, and 4 Wheel ABS. Also, would this work if you do the WJ knuckle swap for the bigger front brakes?
I subscribe to your UA-cam channel. I was watching your brother, Justin and you on the "Pros & Cons" of universal joint axles and CV axles. I have a question for you. I bought a 1996 Jeep Cherokee XJ; 4.0 liter engine with an AW4 automatic transmission (looked for a year for one with a 5 speed so I could teach our 3 grand kids how to drive a manual but could not find one here in Southwest Georgia). I purchased it on 1/23/2024 and have done a ton of work on it since I bought it. It has a Dana 35 positive traction rear differential with 3.55 gears. The front is a Dana 30 with of course 3.55 gears. Can I order the "replacement short and long axle for a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee with CV joints plus the hubs" and change them out in my 1996 Jeep Cherokee XJ Dana 30 differential with no issues as long as they have the wide "toner wheels"? Does it matter what engine option I plug in when ordering these or are all of them the same "duty" on a good quality axle and hub? Please advise if I can do this and or if I have to do any modification to change over to CV axles. I just do everyday driving with this Jeep plus some dirt road riding that get pretty muddy here in Southwest Georgia but no heavy duty stuff.
True CV axles are better than U-Joint axles in turning and not doing damage to other parts when the U-Joint fails. but you will have maintenance to deal with in greasing those RCV's and RCV's are not sealed/waterproof. it's just an orange cup that slides along the shaft to cover the greased CV Joint.
U joints can be rebuilt as many times as you want as long as nothing strips. The CV axles can only be replaced once for that lifetime. I used to work at O’Reillys and you can only get one free replacement. The next one you have to buy.
I would love to know how to run the TenFactory seals with CV's. Im going to be rebuilding my CAD MJ D30 with CV's, Spartan clicker locker, and CAD Delete.
I’ve tried to argue this with people. The pros to cv’s far outweigh the cons. I can buy 6 sets of cv’s for the cost of 1 set u-joint axles and have always been able to drive it back home or onto the trailer. Dollars to donuts cv’s are the way to go. Now RCV axles are hands down the solution to axles problems. But damn they are pricey
Hey Fellas, so, is the opinion about CV's being weaker because the price is cheaper? I own a WJ, 2000, I broke the aluminum diff. in the rear on one of the hardest trails around here and have yet broke a front cv joint. Of course it's a Dana 30 low pinion, it does have a Eaton "E" locker in it. Maybe you Fellas can do a debate on the front Dana 30 vs. a front Dana 44, which is stronger. Or just comment on it. I personally think the "44" is a better upgrade. Do you have one for sale for my WJ? I can give you my E-mail
Swapped to cv axles when went to do new ujoints and the caps exploded in two spicer u joints gave up ordered cv. Update now I got a terrible whine coming from front on decel I can't catch a break
0:51 Justin’s face 😂 I prefer u joints I’ve never had to change one ,(I don’t beat on my xj much tho ) But when I had a liberty I always had problems with CV The boot would bust open on the trail and Grease would leak out eventually causing the CV to go bad.
I think the difference may be that the Liberty doesn't have a solid front axle and the CV joint is constantly bending in 2 directions, instead of just one with the solid axle
Rhino 2.0 shafts for the Maverick R are 32 spline stub with a 30 spline inner. So you could order a inner from RCV or any other axle manufacturer and then put JK unit bearings on any Jeep knuckle to use Maverick R stubs and CV’s from Rhino. The CV alone is $89 each. Inners should run around $200 each. So theoretically you’re talking about something in the neighborhood of $600. Plus unit bearings. You can redrill JK unit bearings to 5x4.5. Might net a cheap option for someone savvy enough to put the mismatched parts together. Bonus points for anyone with a 30 spline Yukon Grizzly in their Dana 30.
23:07 "...open diff sends all the power to the broken one...". Power can not be sent anywhere. Power is a measurement of work done. If you misspoke and meant torque - well, an open diff always sends equal amounts to both sides. Always. Physics.
cvs just need to have a bigger market for bigger(high angle)/tougher boots! if the boots were bigger and with plastic or metal mesh impregnated rubber to very much mitigate tearing/pinching the cv boot game is still way too weak, there should be a legit off road boot market beyond "seal savers" by now, very small market for off road boots. BUT to add to his con of boots tearing... by truck has a 60% tear... been driving on it who knows how long before i noticed... after i noticed still took it on a trail for 2 days... no big deal
I like your antics, just so happens you started with jeep content. I will watch whatever channel you put on. Keep making content!!!
same here!
Project farm needs to do some break/strength tests on ujoint versus cv
Thats a good one
A few months back, I replaced the u-joints in my '94 2 door Country edition. Its a 4.0 automatic with 416k on the odometer! I bought CV's a little after you came out with your last video on the topic. She's got a factory limited slip in the 8.25 rear. I just replaced the clutches on it. And it's got a tru trac limited slip in the front. I inspected it and change the gear oil. I went to O'Reilly's and came home with the yellow boxes. Lifetime warranty, just like you said. I haven't put very many miles on it since I put the axles in. The Jeep fell off the jack and put a big old dent in the oil pan. While I had the pan off I inspected my rod bearings and mains. It's just been sitting on jack stands waiting for me to put new bearings in the lower end along with new seals and an oil pump. When will it end?
J ust E mpty E very P ocket !!!
0[][][][][][][]0
Well I'm excited for this one! I swapped my u-joint shafts to CVs about 3 years ago and they absolutely make the steering smoother, but they are starting to make strange noises, so I'm debating switching back.
Run spin free hubs. Best upgrade I have made.
What are you doing here torx bit guy? I LOVE YOU
Hey sproink guy!
Oh don't mind me, just continuing my quest to find the first torx bit sidemarker
Three years ain't bad especially if you wheel it
Bout came out my chair when i seen my shitbox (the grey one that yeeted a knuckle) pop up on the screen 😂
Great video dex!
My buddy’s done 3 sets of balljoints in the woods alone this summer from Blowing the half shafts, never considered cv axles untill seeing that
It’s the truth!!
@@dexjs one of those things you need to see to believe
New drinking game:
Drink every time Dex says lifetime warranty 😂🍺🍻
5:23 later 🤣
@@dexjs brother I’m already wasted. 🤣 🫣
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great Video! CV get a bad wrap, you guys killed all the pros and cons!
Trackmotive CV axles on Rockauto are less than $100 shipped for a pair. Hard to beat that. Part numbers are CH8220 and CH8221. I haven't done any wheeling yet on mine but they were certainly cheaper than swapping in good known u-joint axles. If you are super worried about breaking them, just bring a pair of new spares for an additional $100. Seems like a no brainer. Technically there's a warranty from Trackmotive but the wording in it pretty much rules out hard core wheeling.
I have a passenger side boot half missing for 19 years now, but still going strong
I have a red 98 xj that i bought with cv axle shafts, i have since replaced them with new cv axle shafts but in my experience, the cv axle shaft is definitely smoother when hitting potholes in the road and just general daily driving over the u joint axle shafts, i also have noticed they are cheaper to purchase over the u joint shafts, getting those u joints out is a nightmare without a press but not impossible just an absolute nightmare, not as easy as a driveshaft u joint, either one is a good option they just are like opposite of each other in operation
Love your videos man. I used to Own a 96 Cherokee straight 6. I absolutely loved it and it was a tank until I vapor locked the motor!
Im a TJ guy that wheels and likes to drive home. I recently discovered this channel and found that cv axles work in my jeep and have already switched. The way i see it the cv axles are better than rcv because i have to wait and get my rcv replacement when i could go to oreillys and get them lifetime warranty.
I'll trust you two. you guys know what's better in the woods. Not lot of us drive like you guys do
One downside I’ve found with the rcv axles is you won’t break an axle but now I break ring and pinions. I’ve gone through four sets of Yukon 4.56s and one set of motive gear 4.56s. This is with a 30 spline rcv and Yukon grizzly locker and 33” tires
Dex good video, it reminded me I need to buy a set of WJ /ZJ CV axle shafts to plug in my LJ axle. When I changed one of the u-joints in it I didn't have access to all my tools so no 36mm socket for the hub nut. So it was changed with hub attached to stub shaft. On a tree stump. It was one of the easiest ones I've had to do. But I found it early enough to not destroy the shafts.
I knew Dex was holding out on us! Bout time he showed us his true colors!
I had a YJ with a welded d30. 35s.
I put a short side cv axle in.
I left the CAD and right side axle joint.
In a season i broke 3 joints. Still the same cv.
This is gonna be a good video! 👍🏻👍🏻
All the machine needs is splines to mount the axle in a spider gear welded to some big tube mounted to the floor a really big torque wrench to turn it till it breaks
Yoi convinced me so I put in new trakmotive cv in my 01 xj. me getting closer to 60 makes trail repairs kinda hard anymore so I am glad I installed them today. Thanks
if ya'lls crew haven't broke those u-joints then we know they're indestructible!😮😂 All off-road companies should pay you guys to test all their parts❤
Got cv zj shafts in my xj so far so good.
Maybe @torquetestchannel can break them using his setup with a few modifications. Or somehow get a torque reading with them installed in the axle.
Wow great video! I just did a similar video on my channel but you guys killed it on all the Pros and Cons. CVs for win 🥇
i know you will probably never see this comment but i heard in the beginning where u talked about “life time warranty” from oreilys but im actually a autozone employee we fully support are life time warranty’s no matter how u break them and u can get both of them through commercial for 140 bucks so alittle more than oreilys but i promise we give a lot lease of a hassle when it comes to warranty’s
I'm a firm believer if you tack weld your joints in they hold up pretty damn well
Great Video guys, this is one thing I have been wanting to do. I do have one question though, what is the total length of the CV shafts compared to the u-joint shafts?
I have been wondering if the CV axles are shorter and would work best when doing the WJ brake upgrade on a D30.
Your content never cease to amaze me! 😂 I just rebuilt my axles with chrome moly shafts and now buying cv. Thank for the great comparison but I can't believe you y'all are giving up on finding that snake. What are the model numbers for the cv axles I have a 1999 xj? By the way do they come with a lifetime warranty? 😜
My daily XJ currently has one U joint an one CV because that is what had when I put it together that day.
When you do get to test them , my bet is the cv axle is stronger (at 5 degrees of angularity or more)
Not on a jeep but my old lifted 99 ram 1500 had u joints and i swear i had to replace both front u joints yearly. "But thats part of having lifted truck and big tires so no biggie" however you would think they wouldn't be as hard to replace but i swear one out of 4 might come out easy and the other 3 you have multiple people beating it with a giant socket and mini sledge hammer. A few ended up getting a torch which is very dangerous because the caps will literally shoot off like a missile. My buddies dad had a cap shoot the roof of the garage😂 lets not forget the dummies at the parts store will always give you the wrong ones. They gave me two for the rear even tho i specifically said front. So with my front end tore apart we found out we had to go all the way back for the right ones. So when i got cv axles with my 05 ram i was tickled pink. They seem to last way longer and nowhere as hard to fix imo.
This is random but i highly recommend RockAuto. Ive used them for years and ive bought front half axle shafts, cv axles, differential seals, rotors, ball joints, upper/lower control arms, radiator, water pump, spark plug wires, coil packs, wheel hubs and prolly lots im not thinking of. Ive never got the wrong part or a broken part. The shipping is like $15 for standard like 4 day shipping but you could pay more for like one day shipping but im trying to save money in this economy😂 just find your make and model and then read description itll say this hub is for 2 wheel drivel or this hub has abs or not etc but ive never had an issue over the last like 10 years of using them. If a wheel hub is $250 at autozone/advance then i almost gurantee i can get one for $60 including shipping. Most have warranties and you can say its cheap parts but ive never had to replace a part that ive got from them and i put alot of miles on my trucks. Its scary to think how much money ive saved. Heck the half axles i bought was like 10 years ago and i think they was like $18 for short axle and $20ish for long axle and still going strong. Ive showed it to guys that restore vehicles and they said they could get all the replacement body panels for the same price as one panel from where they typically get theirs. Good luck and try and save as much cash as you can in these times especially if your driving old beat up trucks like me
The visual examples are great..😂
What are part numbers on the two cv axles so I can order them at oreillys
If got a impact swivel u can do the same demo for the cv and because if u notice the u joint was binding on angle and a cv wont bind
The rabbit hole i went down when i decided to do my own u joints...... But atleast i have all the tools now if i need to do it again 🤣🤣🤣
Thank you for this video had this debate with a few different people. I wheel a WJ so I'm probably CV far superior design I carry a spare for each side
Put a cv in one side and u joint in other and see which lasts. When they break out new ones in opposite sides
I was at rbd that year. I’ve been to a lot of off road events an im not sure I have ever nor will I ever hear a crowd go as wild as they did when he made it up tht hill😂
Omg that was like a ball game!!
Well, you can rebuild the U joint on the side of the trail and get you home, but that’s the only major pro I can think of. Idk if it’s weird or not but I carry an extra U joint for that reason, I also carry a ball joint kit which makes the install much easier.
Let it be known I made this comment around the 9 minute mark on this video
I run ZJ CV axles in my TJ. I have a 242 transfer case and a 5 speed manual and U-joints were horrible when turning in Full Time mode. The factory ZJ CV axle shaft necks down quite a bit to plug into the CV, and that's where they break if you abuse them. FWIW, The CV is a bit weaker overall but doesn't care what angle it's at. It is stronger than a U-joint by the time you're at about half lock. Aftermarket CV's are crazy strong but have pretty crappy boots for a daily driven vehicle...
We had a 96 dodge 1500 and back in the early 2000's we went through a mud hole and broke the ears off threw the u joint on the passenger side axle. We drove it home about 20 miles home. That was back before all these internet places you can buy axles. Cost about 500 bucks to get someone to fix it
i have a 1994 ram 2500 4wd gas burner would love to have rcv until i looked at price
CV is nice if you break one you can drive it out of the woods and no chance to separate the ball joints and knuckles. They are weaker but I’d take my chances with cv over breaking a u joint and popping the knuckle off on the trail
I fully agree!!
Getting home is a biggie to me.
I have 2 sets of these, one abs ring and non abs ring, they are spares, i like the cv axle shafts better
I been running those exact axle in the yellow box for 3 yrs no problems broke a lunch box locker but cv was fine
bought a cheap 5.2 zj that had both front cv broken an had limited slip rear was a fun parts jeep
Pro cv axle cheaper easier trail fix so a man can carry spares and continue on !!! All I need to know !!!
Damn good video as always!
I have analogies paralysis. Should I step up to at least a 44 or keep the 30 or go with the cheap CVs or go with RCV🤷♂️. Excellent video as I’m a fan of your shenanigans 😂
Lifetime Warranty, man that is awesome. so if I'm on a trail in Colorado or Moab and the cv axle breaks. You mean all I have to do is step out of my Jeep and say Lifetime Warranty and BAM a brand new one will appear on the trail. Man that's great, no more carrying a spare U-Joint around for trail fixes.
My question is will the cv axles fit into the factory front end of a 88 jeep Wrangler yj . I know they will no longer have the axle disconnect. How much should or will cut gas mileage if they fit without the disconnect???
Once I have to replace my U-joint, going CV
having broke the knuckle on a yj when the u joint blew i wish i had the cvs. it sucks having to rip an axle apart on the trail when you snap a ujoint
great info!🤘
CVs for daily
U joints for trail wheeling with spares.
RCVs for racing and hard wheeling
Agreed 👍
Great video guys 👍
Thanks guys. I have a bone stock '01 XJ, I'm assuming that the CV swap would work with mine? No central axle disconnect. Dana 30 front axle, 231J T-Case, and 4 Wheel ABS. Also, would this work if you do the WJ knuckle swap for the bigger front brakes?
It comes down to strength. The ujoint axle is stronger than the CV unless you go with an RCV.
I subscribe to your UA-cam channel. I was watching your brother, Justin and you on the "Pros & Cons" of universal joint axles and CV axles.
I have a question for you.
I bought a 1996 Jeep Cherokee XJ; 4.0 liter engine with an AW4 automatic transmission (looked for a year for one with a 5 speed so I could teach our 3 grand kids how to drive a manual but could not find one here in Southwest Georgia). I purchased it on 1/23/2024 and have done a ton of work on it since I bought it.
It has a Dana 35 positive traction rear differential with 3.55 gears. The front is a Dana 30 with of course 3.55 gears.
Can I order the "replacement short and long axle for a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee with CV joints plus the hubs" and change them out in my 1996 Jeep Cherokee XJ Dana 30 differential with no issues as long as they have the wide "toner wheels"? Does it matter what engine option I plug in when ordering these or are all of them the same "duty" on a good quality axle and hub?
Please advise if I can do this and or if I have to do any modification to change over to CV axles. I just do everyday driving with this Jeep plus some dirt road riding that get pretty muddy here in Southwest Georgia but no heavy duty stuff.
Great video. Does this all apply to TJ/LJ axles as well?
Yes it does
You are the master debater
I just need the part numbers for the cv shafts for a 99 xj
Do the CVs come with a Lifetime warranty?
If I didn't already know how great of an axle rcvs are I would say this video was a really long roundabout way of promoting your product LOL
I would say you can trail fix a UV faster than a cv but I could be wrong.
True CV axles are better than U-Joint axles in turning and not doing damage to other parts when the U-Joint fails.
but you will have maintenance to deal with in greasing those RCV's and RCV's are not sealed/waterproof. it's just an orange cup that slides along the shaft to cover the greased CV Joint.
U joints can be rebuilt as many times as you want as long as nothing strips. The CV axles can only be replaced once for that lifetime. I used to work at O’Reillys and you can only get one free replacement. The next one you have to buy.
Im here for the ADHD!!! Love the visuals
I would love to know how to run the TenFactory seals with CV's. Im going to be rebuilding my CAD MJ D30 with CV's, Spartan clicker locker, and CAD Delete.
I’ve tried to argue this with people. The pros to cv’s far outweigh the cons. I can buy 6 sets of cv’s for the cost of 1 set u-joint axles and have always been able to drive it back home or onto the trailer. Dollars to donuts cv’s are the way to go. Now RCV axles are hands down the solution to axles problems. But damn they are pricey
cv would be better if you run a lot of water/mud. they wont get contaminated as much as u joint
Hey Fellas, so, is the opinion about CV's being weaker because the price is cheaper? I own a WJ, 2000, I broke the aluminum diff. in the rear on one of the hardest trails around here and have yet broke a front cv joint. Of course it's a Dana 30 low pinion, it does have a Eaton "E" locker in it. Maybe you Fellas can do a debate on the front Dana 30 vs. a front Dana 44, which is stronger. Or just comment on it. I personally think the "44" is a better upgrade. Do you have one for sale for my WJ? I can give you my E-mail
Universal
Would that be the same as a dana 30 TJ
Swapped to cv axles when went to do new ujoints and the caps exploded in two spicer u joints gave up ordered cv. Update now I got a terrible whine coming from front on decel I can't catch a break
Is there any modifications necessary to go to CV axles? And what part numbers?
What about for racing which one will be best?
Sand racing
CVS if you ain’t breaking them imo
can i get the cv and my rear drive shaft on my first gen sidekick?
I have a 1998 xj with a dana 30 what cv set do i need part numbers please
Ch-8220
0:51 Justin’s face 😂
I prefer u joints I’ve never had to change one ,(I don’t beat on my xj much tho )
But when I had a liberty I always had problems with CV
The boot would bust open on the trail and Grease would leak out eventually causing the CV to go bad.
I think the difference may be that the Liberty doesn't have a solid front axle and the CV joint is constantly bending in 2 directions, instead of just one with the solid axle
@@rmeav8er677 that makes sense I wasn’t thinning about that
Do they make a stronger cv without spending rcv money?
I’m working on that. I respect that question fully.
@dexjs can't be that hard. Ya'll got a lathe lol. I have a ton of ideas but nowhere to build yet
Rhino 2.0 shafts for the Maverick R are 32 spline stub with a 30 spline inner. So you could order a inner from RCV or any other axle manufacturer and then put JK unit bearings on any Jeep knuckle to use Maverick R stubs and CV’s from Rhino. The CV alone is $89 each. Inners should run around $200 each. So theoretically you’re talking about something in the neighborhood of $600. Plus unit bearings. You can redrill JK unit bearings to 5x4.5.
Might net a cheap option for someone savvy enough to put the mismatched parts together.
Bonus points for anyone with a 30 spline Yukon Grizzly in their Dana 30.
Solid video, and you should link your website to your bio🤝
23:07 "...open diff sends all the power to the broken one...". Power can not be sent anywhere. Power is a measurement of work done. If you misspoke and meant torque - well, an open diff always sends equal amounts to both sides. Always. Physics.
I would like to see u joint vs cv on the trails how long until broke
Dex- ive got a book full of pros No.1 life time warranty (closes book)
Will these work on a JK Dana 30 high pinion???
Can you get them for a yj
Yeah I had a video for that swap few months ago in a MJ
@dexjs I found it.. I watched it again last night. I'm doing that this winter. Thank you for your time.
Would you say the dana 35 is stronger than the aluminum 44?
Nawww. If the 44 is a 10/10 the 35 is a 6/10
Samurai uses birfeilds which are CV.
first I want to see you test your theory of turning a U-Joint axle shaft 80 degrees while driving.
How big of a tire will those Oreillys axles survive?
Just depends driving style. They all break.
Not many junk yards in Montana, lotsa bears though!
Which will last longer on a welded diff 😂?
Universal joints take up less space when carrying spare parts on the trail
I've seen the Aussie guys brake tons of cvc axles. I'll stick to my u joints until I can afford RCV's
What is that O'Reilly part number for the CV? I looked on their site for a 1996 XJ and nothing came up.
Precision 8220/8221. Look up for a ZJ
@@dexjs Thank you. Did you ever discover how the ones with "C" at the end of the part number are different, besides price?
If I can one day afford rcv I will buy them from you 😂
cvs just need to have a bigger market for bigger(high angle)/tougher boots!
if the boots were bigger and with plastic or metal mesh impregnated rubber to very much mitigate tearing/pinching
the cv boot game is still way too weak, there should be a legit off road boot market beyond "seal savers" by now, very small market for off road boots.
BUT to add to his con of boots tearing... by truck has a 60% tear... been driving on it who knows how long before i noticed... after i noticed still took it on a trail for 2 days... no big deal
RCV if you’re watching this. Sponsor me 😂